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SEAMS GREAT! This simple<br />
yet elegant dress is sure<br />
to become a staple <strong>of</strong> your<br />
wardrobe. Shapely seaming<br />
perfectly wraps <strong>the</strong> body and<br />
is highlighted with tone-ontone<br />
topstitching. Kay Unger,<br />
V1183, Misses’ 6-20.<br />
www.voguepatterns.com Hair and Makeup: JOSEPH BOGGESS<br />
Introducing<br />
Kay Unger<br />
248<br />
New York
y Daryl Brower<br />
Every closet needs at least one<br />
perfect dress and chances are you’ll find that dress in<br />
designer Kay Unger’s collections. Made with a modern<br />
sense <strong>of</strong> style and color, not to mention a meticulous<br />
eye for flattering detail, Unger’s clothing is beautiful,<br />
feminine, easy to wear, and virtually ageless in appeal.<br />
“I’ve dressed thirteen year olds and I’ve dressed <strong>six</strong>ty and<br />
seventy year-olds,” says Unger, who is herself a stunning<br />
and stylish 65. “It’s not age, it’s a state <strong>of</strong> mind.” That<br />
mindset is one <strong>of</strong> chic confidence and effortless elegance,<br />
something Unger picked up at a very young age. “My<br />
mo<strong>the</strong>r had <strong>the</strong> most beautiful clo<strong>the</strong>s,” she says. “No<br />
matter where she was going she looked perfectly pulled<br />
toge<strong>the</strong>r and perfectly comfortable in her own skin. And I<br />
wanted to be just like that.”<br />
Unger, who got her first sewing machine at <strong>the</strong> age <strong>of</strong><br />
eight, taught herself to sew and admits her methods and<br />
materials were a bit unorthodox. “When my parents went<br />
to sleep I’d take <strong>the</strong> bedspreads and bath towels and sew<br />
<strong>the</strong>m into skirts and strapless dresses” she recalls. “Then<br />
I gave <strong>the</strong>m out at <strong>the</strong> holidays as gifts.” Despite her early<br />
ingenuity, Unger had no plans to be a fashion designer.<br />
“I thought you had to be a genius to be a designer,” she<br />
says. “And I certainly wasn’t a genius.” She did include <strong>the</strong><br />
pr<strong>of</strong>ession on her childhood list <strong>of</strong> “things I want to be<br />
when I grow up,” but it ranked after figure skater and mom.<br />
(Her reasoning for <strong>the</strong> latter was that, “moms get to wear<br />
beautiful clo<strong>the</strong>s.”) By <strong>the</strong> time college<br />
rolled around she had decided to<br />
become an artist (“I thought it<br />
would be easier than being a<br />
fashion designer,” she laughs.) and<br />
enrolled in <strong>the</strong> painting program at<br />
Washington University. While <strong>the</strong>re<br />
she took a few design classes<br />
and decided that <strong>the</strong> fashion<br />
department was where she really ly<br />
wanted to be. “Painting became<br />
my hobby and I got serious about<br />
design,” she says. In 1965 she<br />
transferred to Parsons, where as<br />
she puts it, “I learned <strong>the</strong> right<br />
way to sew.”<br />
Always one for ladylike<br />
refinement, she showed up for<br />
her first few weeks <strong>of</strong> classes<br />
at Parson’s in a pillbox hat<br />
and gloves—“I didn’t quite fit<br />
in,” she laughs. Her personal<br />
style lightened up a bit, but<br />
her work focused on elegant pieces with lots <strong>of</strong> curves<br />
and vintage detail. At critiques she was usually <strong>the</strong> only<br />
student with a portfolio <strong>of</strong> dress designs and she found<br />
herself fascinated by patternmaking and <strong>the</strong> skill that<br />
went into crafting pieces <strong>of</strong> paper into templates for<br />
dimensional designs. “I learned so much about fit and<br />
flattery, and I learn more every single day,” she says.<br />
Unger doesn’t design for <strong>the</strong> runway, but for <strong>the</strong> real<br />
world, saying she has a duty to make women <strong>of</strong> every<br />
shape and size feel gorgeous and good about <strong>the</strong>mselves.<br />
“I have two kids, I’ve lived a lot <strong>of</strong> different sizes,” she<br />
says. “So I understand what women want and need. And<br />
I fully believe that whe<strong>the</strong>r you’re short, tall, thin or fuller<br />
figured, you can find clo<strong>the</strong>s that fit and make you feel<br />
great about yourself.” To that end her clo<strong>the</strong>s are curvy<br />
and loaded with detail: elegant trims, ruffled and wrapped<br />
touches, embroidered elements, all designed to shape,<br />
sculpt and flatter. “You put on one <strong>of</strong> our dresses and you<br />
instantly have a waist and look taller and leaner,” she<br />
explains. “We don’t hide <strong>the</strong> form, we enhance it—no<br />
matter what its shape or size.”<br />
Fashion week was in full swing when we visited Unger’s<br />
showroom, but Unger explains<br />
that she skips <strong>the</strong> tents in<br />
Bryant Park, preferring instead<br />
to sink money into <strong>the</strong> clo<strong>the</strong>s.<br />
“There’s an enormous cost<br />
to putting on a show,” she<br />
explains. “I’d ra<strong>the</strong>r invest in<br />
developing our line and keeping<br />
our price points affordable for<br />
our customers.” To keep <strong>the</strong><br />
ideas flowing (and <strong>the</strong> dresses<br />
coming), Unger’s studio is run<br />
as a team effort, with designers,<br />
patternmakers and sewers each<br />
responsible for a specific segment<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> business, be it smart suits<br />
or elegant evening wear. “I like to<br />
say it<br />
takes a village,” Unger says. “I<br />
have<br />
a team <strong>of</strong> amazing designers.<br />
I couldn’t give my customers <strong>the</strong><br />
incredible product I do all by myself.”<br />
Like Unger, <strong>the</strong> designers on each<br />
(continued on <strong>page</strong> 52)<br />
49
Kay Unger (above) gives us a tour<br />
<strong>of</strong> her workrooms to show us how<br />
<strong>the</strong>se incredible fashions come<br />
to life. Starting with sketches and<br />
swatches, each design is nely<br />
crafted by a team <strong>of</strong> artists following<br />
<strong>the</strong> philosophy that <strong>the</strong> nal garment<br />
should be attering above all else.<br />
250
www.voguepatterns.com Hair and Makeup: JOSEPH BOGGESS<br />
Kay Unger’s best-selling<br />
dress is now available to<br />
home sewers. It’s an<br />
extremely versatile design<br />
with a lot <strong>of</strong> potential.<br />
Change <strong>the</strong> color, add a<br />
trim, make a contrast<br />
color, <strong>the</strong> possibilities are<br />
endless. Kay Unger,<br />
V1182, Misses’ 8-22.<br />
3
(continued from <strong>page</strong> 49)<br />
“ I love that [<strong>the</strong> patterns] are<br />
giving women <strong>the</strong> <strong>free</strong>dom<br />
to create for <strong>the</strong>mselves<br />
and express who <strong>the</strong>y are.”<br />
team have art backgrounds and <strong>the</strong> majority began <strong>the</strong>ir stint with <strong>the</strong><br />
company as interns. Unger is visibly proud <strong>of</strong> her team and is quick<br />
to credit <strong>the</strong>ir talents. “One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> things I truly love about my job is<br />
mentoring [<strong>the</strong> designers] and watching <strong>the</strong>m grow,” she says. “I’m<br />
constantly amazed by what <strong>the</strong>y can produce.”<br />
Following Unger around her workroom, <strong>the</strong> camaraderie and<br />
creativity is palpable. Everywhere you look <strong>the</strong>re’s something in progress:<br />
sketches being drawn up, fabrics being dip dyed (in Rit dyes no less) and<br />
samples being pinned, draped and shaped. “Everyone who works for me<br />
is an artist,” Unger says proudly, pointing out <strong>the</strong> details on each design.<br />
In addition to <strong>the</strong> clo<strong>the</strong>s, she and her staff, many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m painters<br />
like <strong>the</strong>ir boss, create <strong>the</strong> colorfully feminine prints that have become<br />
Kay Unger’s signature. Unger estimates that she and her team have<br />
designed more than a thousand different fabric prints, each one<br />
carefully catalogued in <strong>the</strong> black binders that are shelved floor to ceiling<br />
along one wall <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> workroom. “It lets us control <strong>the</strong> colors and <strong>the</strong><br />
patterns, so <strong>the</strong> pieces are unique to us,” she explains. Ano<strong>the</strong>r wall<br />
houses an astonishing collection <strong>of</strong> trims and buttons, all serving as<br />
ei<strong>the</strong>r an inspiration or adornment to <strong>the</strong> clo<strong>the</strong>s being created.<br />
As she points out <strong>the</strong> different details on each piece in progress,<br />
it’s clear that Unger herself has a real sense <strong>of</strong> clothing construction.<br />
She’s quick to point out <strong>the</strong> little “ details on each piece in progress,<br />
noting <strong>the</strong> techniques and fabrics a home sewer could use to achieve<br />
<strong>the</strong> same results. She’s excited about her new line for <strong>Vogue</strong> <strong>Patterns</strong><br />
and points out that special care was taken to select styles that could<br />
easily be replicated by <strong>the</strong> average sewing enthusiast—not that Unger<br />
expects home sewers to make carbon copies <strong>of</strong> her clo<strong>the</strong>s (although<br />
that’s okay too). “I love that [<strong>the</strong> patterns] are giving women <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>free</strong>dom to create for <strong>the</strong>mselves and express who <strong>the</strong>y are,” she says.<br />
“It lets a woman speak—she feels great about what’s she’s wearing and<br />
how she looks wearing it.” For Unger, creating clothing isn’t about<br />
dictating a certain look; it’s about connecting with customers and<br />
giving <strong>the</strong>m what <strong>the</strong>y want. “We’re not <strong>the</strong> biggest company, but<br />
we make beautiful things,” says Unger. “We make clo<strong>the</strong>s that make<br />
people happy.” And really, what more can you ask for? <br />
KAY’S TIPS FOR DRESSING YOUR BEST<br />
Don’t be afraid <strong>of</strong> fit. “Trying to hide extra weight with loose<br />
clothing only makes you look larger,” explains Unger. Opt for<br />
sculpted pieces that give you shape instead.<br />
Look leaner. Trim your tummy by choosing a dress style that<br />
puts <strong>the</strong> waistline one inch above your natural waist. “It instantly<br />
creates a shapely waist, even if you don’t have one,” says Unger,<br />
noting that she uses this trick on almost all her designs.<br />
Shirt <strong>the</strong> issue. Every closet should be outfitted with at least one<br />
great shirtdress. “It’s a year ’round basic and <strong>the</strong> fitted waist and<br />
full skirt create flattering proportions,” explains Unger.<br />
Go sleeveless. “A bare arm is ten times better than a sleeve that<br />
hits at <strong>the</strong> wrong spot,” says Unger. “If you’re self-conscious, you<br />
can always slip on a shawl.”<br />
Clever draping and ruching can disguise a thick midsection<br />
or draw attention elsewhere. “We call it using folds to cover your<br />
folds,” laughs Unger.<br />
Aim high. Slipping on a pair <strong>of</strong> heels is an instant figure fix and a<br />
confidence booster. “You don’t have to wear <strong>the</strong>m all day but keep<br />
a pair in your car or at your desk so you can slip <strong>the</strong>m on when<br />
you need to impress.”<br />
252
The perfect dress for any<br />
occasion and any body.<br />
Following Unger’s tips<br />
(see opposite <strong>page</strong>), this<br />
dress features attering<br />
ruching that “uses folds<br />
to cover your folds.” Kay<br />
Unger, V1182, Misses’ 8-22.<br />
www.voguepatterns.com Hair and Makeup: JOSEPH BOGGESS<br />
3