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i-D Magazine

The world we live in today is wrought with controversy and drastic changes due to our ever-evolving lifestyle. The Internet and social media have had a revolutionary impact on the way we interact, socialize, and even think about the world around us. Even though this technologically induced society we live in is thriving with a plethora of knowledge, society has become even more self-centered. The Speak Up Issue of i-D strives to bring awareness to social, ethical, political, and caring causes. This publication was created as a project for a Current Trends and Forecasting class at the Savannah College of Art and Design. This is a recreation of a i-D magazine and is not an official i-D publication.

The world we live in today is wrought with controversy and drastic changes due to our ever-evolving lifestyle. The Internet and social media have had a revolutionary impact on the way we interact, socialize, and even think about the world around us. Even though this technologically induced society we live in is thriving with a plethora of knowledge, society has become even more self-centered. The Speak Up Issue of i-D strives to bring awareness to social, ethical, political, and caring causes. This publication was created as a project for a Current Trends and Forecasting class at the Savannah College of Art and Design. This is a recreation of a i-D magazine and is not an official i-D publication.

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insi-De the speak up issue<br />

Cultural issues juxtaposed against current trends<br />

Features + Fashion<br />

MOTHER EARTH A message from our mother<br />

CAN YOU DIG IT? Get cozy at home with Tenielle and<br />

Jordan<br />

BABY GOT BACKHAND Love means nothing in tennis<br />

BAD TRIP DON’T TRIP! only good vibes here<br />

CONGLOMERATE a look at progressive artist, weston<br />

doty’s work<br />

OFF WITH MY HEAD the story of insanity<br />

DESIGNER TO WATCH Anna Gusselnikova<br />

TALKING TRASH G-Star collaborates with powerhouse<br />

jack-of-all-trades, Pharrell Williams<br />

GREY MATTER Adam Models’ fresh face, Ryan James<br />

Smith, shows us how to be 50 shades of cool<br />

MAMA MIA, ZIA! The elegance of jewelry designs by Zia<br />

are showcased through monochromatic stylings<br />

TALKING MIRRORS follow a ballerina through the looking<br />

glass<br />

DONT MENTION THE GARMENT WORKERS protests for garment<br />

workers rights<br />

13 BRICKS Sit down and get personal as business owner<br />

Vann paves a new outlook on the fashion industry<br />

CONTRIBUTORS GETTING LOUD Q&a with models & designers<br />

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editor-in-chief brynn mckinstry<br />

creative director taylor ruparel<br />

fashion director elizabeth rose<br />

fashion editor brooke benson<br />

production manager brynn mckinstry…<br />

producer elizabeth rose<br />

advertising director taylor ruparel<br />

features editor brooke benson<br />

contributors<br />

mallory prevatt<br />

tenielle adderley<br />

jordan rich<br />

grayson davis<br />

sawyer greenberg<br />

jessica daly<br />

nathan hoyle<br />

chandler ellis<br />

zia sachedina<br />

maiya-simone plather<br />

weston doty<br />

anna gusselnikova<br />

angel muktan<br />

devin osorio<br />

ryan james smith<br />

tianyi wang<br />

malaka sams<br />

matthew slade<br />

vann-ellison seales<br />

13 bricks<br />

markie stroud<br />

lydia holman<br />

kendall jackson<br />

allison renee<br />

savannah hughes<br />

ashton neibel<br />

kharlybia roane<br />

ethan guice<br />

eden cintron<br />

rachel scaffe<br />

blair wagner<br />

20 i-D THE SPEAK UP ISSUE<br />

BROOKE BENSON is currently<br />

a senior at Savannah College of<br />

Art & Design and will be graduating<br />

with a Fashion Design BFA<br />

this May 2015. She has already<br />

accepted a Fashion Design position<br />

in Macy’s Executive Development<br />

Program in the New York<br />

beginning in June 2015. Brooke<br />

is passionate about sewing and<br />

womenswear design, as well as studying market and<br />

consumer trends within the industry. Her aesthetic<br />

is classic with feminine elements. She is currently<br />

producing her senior collection, which mixes<br />

elements inspired by traditional men’s wear and<br />

more feminine elements such as a dreamy hand-dyed<br />

print on both organza and silk taffeta.<br />

BRYNN MCKINSTRY is an aspiring<br />

fashion director and<br />

editor currently studying at<br />

the Savannah College of Art and<br />

Design. During this time she<br />

interned with Stylist, Tammara<br />

Kohler, where she realized her<br />

love of the industry behind the<br />

scenes, cementing her career<br />

path. From her upbringing down<br />

in the peninsula state of Florida<br />

to her current residence in Savannah, Georgia<br />

her aesthetic merges contemporary ideals with<br />

those of antiquity. Her inspiration is drawn<br />

from her father through engineering ingenuity,<br />

architectural influences, and structural soundness.<br />

ELIZABETH ROSE has defined her wardrobe a<br />

personal archive from the day<br />

her closet kicked out her shoes,<br />

concluding to shoe decorations<br />

embroidering her room. Evolving<br />

into an aware soul, arguing<br />

to learn, teach, and act on<br />

what she believes in. Paired<br />

with a Fashion Marketing education,<br />

transforms this innovative<br />

thinker into the most fashionable<br />

activist in the industry.<br />

For TAYLOR RUPAREL, fashion is a collaboration;<br />

a mix of viewpoints, expertise<br />

and textures to create<br />

a final result. With collaboration,<br />

the final outcome has<br />

the ability to reach a higher<br />

potential when removed from the<br />

parameters set by tunnel vision.<br />

Having being raised in Colorado<br />

and attended college in the<br />

costal Deep South, Taylor’s aesthetic<br />

blurs the lines between<br />

east and west while interpreting cultural zeitgeists.


get loud!<br />

The world we live in today is wrought with controversy and drastic changes due to our<br />

ever-evolving lifestyle. The Internet and social media have had a revolutionary impact on<br />

the way we interact, socialize, and even think about the world around us. Even though<br />

this technologically induced society we live in is thriving with a plethora of knowledge,<br />

society has become even more self-centered. The Speak Up Issue of i-D strives to bring<br />

awareness to social, ethical, political, and caring causes. We strive to gain knowledge<br />

about the world around us, form opinions, and share these global issues with others.<br />

The first step to making a difference is being aware of the issue at hand. Within this issue<br />

we welcome a hand-picked selection of talented contributors who we believe will<br />

shape the future of fashion in a positive manner, and do so with a passionate presence<br />

in the community. Local print shop 13 Bricks emerged out of a necessity to achieve<br />

positive social change, promote environmental awareness and provide a sustainable<br />

alternative to traditional clothing companies. While menswear designer Anna Gusselnikova<br />

stays aware of current issues from back in her homeland of Kazakhstan. We<br />

also discuss the negative side of “rave culture” so prominent amongst Generation Y.<br />

Love,<br />

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Just like anyone does, I’ve been yearning for my childhood.<br />

The Lost Gardens of Heligan<br />

mother earth<br />

a narrative story<br />

TEXT Eden Renata Cintron<br />

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Back when I was still learning about my tides and<br />

depths and how tall I could grow. At the very beginning<br />

of it all, my father, The Universe (who goes by many<br />

names), placed me just close enough to my brother, Sol,<br />

who you all call The Sun, to make sure I stayed warm.<br />

He placed me near my sister, Luna, who you all call The<br />

Moon, so that she could help me control my tides. It<br />

took us ages to get everything right, but after a while<br />

we figured it out.<br />

Then, things started to grow on me. It took me a while<br />

to realize that they weren’t just growing on me, the were<br />

growing from me; we were connected. Before I knew<br />

it, these things were starting to have an effect on me.<br />

Sure, they were using parts of me, my water and my<br />

fruits. But they were also my children, so it didn’t bother<br />

me to give parts of myself to them. I was their nourishment<br />

and they were my babies. We lived in harmony.<br />

My air was clean and so were my oceans. My grounds<br />

were being trampled and eroded, but I was growing<br />

and changing and learning to live with the differences.<br />

My babies started getting bigger and bigger. People<br />

call my babies Dinosaurs, but its been so long since I’ve<br />

seen them. I can’t feel their essence on me anymore.<br />

After they started dying, other creatures started to take<br />

their place.<br />

Birds, reptiles, mammals, and eventually even humans.<br />

Just like the Dinosaurs, these new inhabitants used me<br />

as well. During these times, we were all living in harmony.<br />

Everyone would take from me, but they would<br />

also give back to me. They planted crops, they returned<br />

their dead to my lands and from them, more grew. If<br />

they chopped down my trees, they would only take a<br />

few and leave me with plenty more to help me breathe.<br />

Things were a little uncomfortable, but I didn’t want my<br />

new babies to be without all they needed to survive.<br />

Before I knew it, times started to change again.<br />

More and more humans were growing out of me and<br />

out of their mothers and things began to get kind of<br />

crowded. People from all parts of me were meeting, but<br />

they weren’t getting along. Thousands upon thousands<br />

of my babies were dying and there was nothing I could<br />

do about it. Humans were killing my babies who had no<br />

weapons to defend themselves. My cows and buffalos<br />

were being slaughtered. My fish were being gathered<br />

by the pound. My babies were killing each other and no<br />

one could hear me begging them to stop. I cried and<br />

cried. For days, my tears covered my land and even my<br />

seas. When no one paid attention to my tears, I started<br />

to shudder. Parts of my land cracked and fell into my<br />

oceans.<br />

Things were changing again; I was changing again. My<br />

land split into many pieces, I couldn’t get them all back.<br />

I got used to myself being spread apart but I wasn’t<br />

dealing with it well. Not only had I split myself, I had<br />

also split up my babies. I became cold, extremely cold<br />

and it took a long, long while until I warmed up again.<br />

But then, I started to get extremely hot. All the changes<br />

were starting to take their toll on me, but I had to<br />

stay strong for my children. The weaker I became, the<br />

stronger my children became. More and more changes,<br />

fewer trees for me to breathe, fewer fish in my seas,<br />

fewer animals on my lands, more and more humans<br />

everywhere. More crying, more cracking. More change.<br />

Now things are out of control. There are more humans<br />

than I ever thought there could be. There are fewer<br />

trees than I could imagine and it feels like I’m suffocating.<br />

My sister looks on us from afar, and feels so bad for<br />

us that she hides herself. Sometimes, no one can see<br />

her. My brother hates what my children have done to<br />

me. He lets out his aggressions by making things so hot<br />

and unbearable, he doesn’t realize that not only does<br />

that hurt my children it also hurts me. I can’t stand the<br />

heat. All parts of me are getting warmer and warmer<br />

and even when I try, I can’t cool down.<br />

My oceans are almost bare. Where there were once crevasses<br />

and under water valleys teaming with life, there<br />

are now pieces of plastic, a material my human children<br />

created. There are pieces of aluminum. There are too<br />

many things to deal with and I pray to my father all the<br />

time that he will make them all go away.<br />

I fear what will happen if he doesn’t answer my prayers.<br />

The last time I lost control, I broke myself into pieces.<br />

I’ve cried over and over, flooding myself. I’ve screamed<br />

and shook, cracking more and more pieces of myself.<br />

I’ve whistled tornadoes into existence. I made huge<br />

waves that obliterated parts of my land. It doesn’t matter<br />

what I do, no one listens and no one helps. They just<br />

keep taking me away, piece by piece. My babies, my<br />

trees, my land. It doesn’t matter what I do, it’s never as<br />

bad as what is done to me.<br />

My father told me long ago that if I ever feel like I’ve<br />

lost all control, I could always flood everything and start<br />

all over. Starting over sounds far easier than trying to<br />

gain back my respect and dignity from my children. I<br />

am a gracious mother, giving all that I have away for<br />

their sake but, as of late, it has gone unappreciated. A<br />

flood does sound like it would cool me off. I just worry<br />

how I will feel after I’ve made my decision. Will I miss<br />

my children? Will things grow on me the way they once<br />

did? Will my first babies come back to treat me well like<br />

they once did? Will my children thrive through the flood<br />

as they have in the past? What I really wonder is, will I<br />

survive long enough to see my own wrath or will I wilt<br />

away before I ever get the chance to show everyone<br />

how righteous and powerful I truly am?<br />

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CAN<br />

YOU<br />

JORDAN RICH and TENIELLE ADDERLEY<br />

shot by MALLORY PREVATT<br />

DIG<br />

IT ?<br />

Styled by Brooke Benson Brynn McKinstry<br />

Elizabeth Rose & Taylor Ruparel<br />

Hair & Makeup by Mallory Prevatt<br />

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Jordan waers Baiting suit Micheal Kors, Watch Marc by Marc Jacobs, Shorts Stylist’s own, Sunglasses Model’s own<br />

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Jordan wears Vest Ralph Lauren, Pants Tommy Hilfiger, Shoe’s and Sunglasses Stylist’s own<br />

Tenielle wears Pants Miizono, Shirt, Sunglasses, Earings Stylist’s own<br />

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Tenielle wears Shorts Banana Republic, Shirt Foxcroft, all jewelry Stylist’s own<br />

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aby<br />

got<br />

back<br />

hand<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY MATT SLADE STYLING ELIZABETH ROSE<br />

Creative Director Taylor Ruparel Producer Brynn McKinstry Hair/Makeup Allison Renee Model Tianyi Wang<br />

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Tianyi wears sports bra from Under Armour, pants from The Future and stylist’s own shoes<br />

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Tianyi wears top and shorts from The Future and shoes from Aldo<br />

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Tianyi wears sportsbra and shorts by Under Armour with Adidas socks, stylist’s own skirt and shoes


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Tianyi wears a Champion sportsbra with Hugo<br />

Boss underwear, stylist’s shorts and Jeffrey<br />

Campbell shoes<br />

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i-D trend<br />

grids & gradients<br />

DIGITAL PRINTING lends precision to grids and ombre effects, which are then composed<br />

in planes that play with perspective. Hand-painted detail, brush strokes<br />

and airbrushed graduated tones lend a more textured, spontaneous direction to<br />

the trend. Crisp geometric forms are overlaid to reveal unusual overlaps of<br />

semi-translucent color and form.<br />

TEXT BRYNN MCKINSTRY<br />

Israeli fashion designer Noa Raviv has integrated<br />

3D-printed elements into ruffled garments influenced<br />

by distorted digital drawings. Noa Raviv printed and<br />

stitched lines and grids onto fabrics to evoke images<br />

of corrupted 3D drawings made using computer modelling<br />

software. “While working on a 3D software I was<br />

fascinated by the grid shown on the 2D screen and by<br />

the way black repetitive lines defines voluminous objects,”<br />

Raviv says. Tulle and silk organza fabrics in black,<br />

white and sheer tones are layered, ruffled and pleated<br />

into voluminous shapes. These embellishments snake<br />

over the shoulders and cover the chests of the dresses.<br />

“I chose the materials that had the most innovative look and the ones that I thought would best fit,” Raviv explained.<br />

Grid-like patterns are warped and stretched across parts of the garments to create optical illusions across the body.<br />

Two 3D-printed pieces, formed from ribbed layers of polymer, were created on a Stratasys Objet Connex multi-material<br />

machine. Raviv used the shapes of broken Greek and Roman marble sculptures to inform the asymmetric silhouettes.<br />

The silhouettes were influenced by classical sculptures, which were the point of departure for creating the<br />

collection. This creates a juxtaposition between the technological grid and classic silhouettes.<br />

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FRANCIS BITONTI, who designed the 3D printed dress for Dita Von Teese, has<br />

3D-printed a capsule collection of pixellated footwear.<br />

TEXT BRYNN MCKINSTRY<br />

Each platform shoe has a slightly different<br />

form. To create the shoes, Bitonti used a<br />

mathematical model that generates cellular<br />

structures called Game of Life, devised<br />

by British mathematician John Conway.<br />

“The shoes are all procedurally generated,”<br />

Bitonti told Dezeen. “Conway’s Game<br />

of Life is used as a foundation for our<br />

algorithm. This is what lets us get so many<br />

different configurations and is what we<br />

used to ‘grow’ our collection.” The shoes<br />

were designed using software developed<br />

with digital technology company Adobe,<br />

which generates variations from the algorithm.<br />

Once the form is created, the shoes<br />

are built pixel by pixel<br />

on a Stratasys 3D printer that gradually<br />

blends different colours of filament as the<br />

pieces are built up in layers. The soles are<br />

a dark purple, moving up through blue<br />

and green tones to yellow and orange<br />

at the top. Each of the women’s shoes<br />

features a wedge heel and an upper that<br />

hugs the top of the foot, leaving an open<br />

toe. The pixellated formation of the stalactite-like<br />

footwear differs from pair to pair –<br />

one set features a separate sole and heels,<br />

while the bottom and top of the heel are<br />

disconnected at the back of another pair.<br />

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The ELECTRIC DAISY CARNIVAL attracted more than 130,000 people to dance in the<br />

desert while watching their favorite EDM DJs lay some sick beats. These large<br />

events have reached a level of iconography due to the celebrities that attend<br />

and the fashion trends that are inspired by the festival go-ers. However, large<br />

music festivals dedicated to electronic music are not a new concept.<br />

TEXT TAYLOR RUPAREL<br />

In the 1950s, a rave was described as a wild<br />

bohemian party. The word “rave” was then commonly<br />

used in reference to the 1960’s garage<br />

rock and psychedelic bands. With a rapid shift<br />

away from mod era into the hippie era of the<br />

70’s, the word rave fell out of relevance; that is<br />

until the late 80’s a new waves of electric music,<br />

acid house and techno began to flourish in Manchester,<br />

England. With the recent end of the U.K’s<br />

textile industry in the north, large mills and warehouses<br />

were left vacant begging for the counter<br />

culture to find some use for them. Parties in the<br />

abandoned lots were advertised as all night video<br />

shoots; people would buy tickets for £5. On<br />

each ticket was taped 1p (penny), the party goers<br />

acting fee for the “video shoot”. By doing so,<br />

forces of the law did not affect the parties. House<br />

music began to gain popularity, so much so that<br />

it invaded London where Acid Music Parties took<br />

shape in public arenas. The parties attracted up<br />

to 25,000 people per party. With such a large<br />

attendance, local authorities started fining for unauthorized<br />

parties, ultimately forcing rave back to<br />

take place in the countryside. The term rave was<br />

once again relevant, being used to describe the<br />

subculture surrounding the Acid Music Parties.<br />

American DJs traveled to the U.K and Europe to<br />

play at the parties, which lead to them returning<br />

to America and facilitating their own parties or<br />

raves. D.J Frankie Bones is credited to creating<br />

one of the first raves in the U.S called “Storm<br />

Rave”, which traveled state to state. After this,<br />

numerous smaller promotional groups started to<br />

form they’re own raves including Caffeine and<br />

Ultra Music Festival. Once rave culture reached<br />

the West Coast, parties such as OPIUM and NAR-<br />

NIA reached 60,000 people in size. These raves<br />

were named “The Woodstock of Generation X”.<br />

The classic rave fairy girl motif came into existence<br />

based off of the first promotional poster<br />

for NARNIA, which featured fairy imagery. West<br />

Coast raves took place on Indian reservations or<br />

ski resorts during the summer, maintaining the<br />

British tradition of hiding the events away from<br />

the public. Many raves in the U.S were completely<br />

legal and had the approval from local authorities.<br />

Agreements were set in place that allowed<br />

for the<br />

raves to continue through out the morning until<br />

6am as long as no alcohol was served. The no<br />

alcohol rule, in turn, promoted the use of ecstasy.<br />

Raves were now known as drug supermarkets and<br />

received negative press attention due to the hospitalizations<br />

caused by drug over doses as well<br />

as from deaths. The American population stop<br />

caring about techno, house music and started<br />

listening to nu-rock groups such as The Strokes<br />

and The White Stripes. Some American DJs even<br />

moved to Europe where there was a larger market<br />

for Dance music<br />

Today, almost 25 years after raves first hit America,<br />

rave culture has once again manifested itself<br />

within Generation Y. It was critical for party promoters<br />

to shed the notion of drugged up kids<br />

dancing to electric music. In order to do so, they<br />

abandoned the word “rave” and replaced it with<br />

“Music Festival.” Techno music is now known as<br />

EDM (electric dance music). Part of the rebranding<br />

intuitive was to pull raves out of remote<br />

locations and place them in highly public areas.<br />

Electric Daisy Carnival, one of the U.S’s largest<br />

EDM music festivals, takes place at Las Vegas’s<br />

motor racetrack attracting over 130,000 people.<br />

With such high attendance at festivals, safety can<br />

be a major concern. However many situations<br />

can be avoided by being smart. Attending music<br />

festivals with a group of people you trust is very<br />

important. Set up a home base or meet up point<br />

incase you loose someone or the group breaks<br />

up. Make sure to keep your phone charged and<br />

have a backup battery just incase. If you are you<br />

to participate in drug use, make sure you know<br />

what your taking and how it will affect you. It<br />

is also suggested to bring a drug testing kit in<br />

order to test your d.o.c. Never leave your drink<br />

unattended. With over 130,000 people around<br />

you, never assume that it won’t happen to you,<br />

whatever it may be. Listen to your instinct.<br />

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ad trip<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY GRAYSON DAVIS<br />

STYLING BRYNN MCKINSTRY<br />

Creative Director Brooke Benson<br />

Hair Elizabeth Rose<br />

Make-up Brooke Benson<br />

Talent Sawyer Greenberg & Jessica Daly<br />

Sawyer wears handmade crocheted halter top by Nathan Hoyle<br />

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Sawyer wears handmade crocheted halter top by Nathan Hoyle and stylist’s own shorts<br />

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Jessica wears crocheted top by Nathan Hoyle and an American Apparel skirt<br />

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Sawyer and Jessica are wearing Free People crocheted tops and stylist’s shoes<br />

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Sawyer wears a beanie from Civvies and stylist’s mask<br />

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i-D Artist To Watch<br />

conglomerate<br />

photographer weston doty/styling weston doty<br />

WESTON DOTY IS A 21-YEAR-OLD GRAPHIC DESIGN AND PHOTOGRAPHY STUDENT AT THE<br />

SAVANNAH COLLEGE OF ART AND DESIGN FROM SANTA MONICA, CALIFORNIA. HE’S INTER-<br />

ESTED IN COMBINING, PHOTOGRAPHY, DRAWING, PAINTING, AND MUCH MORE IN HIS WORK.<br />

He is influenced through a balanced mixture<br />

of many ideas and concepts, and explains how<br />

he is always evolving the more he learns, explores,<br />

and experiments. A major inspiration for<br />

Weston comes from ideas behind the supremacist<br />

movement: how art is a pure expression<br />

of feeling. Nevertheless always giving a minimalism<br />

aspect. Constantly impressed by someone’s<br />

ability to capture simplicity in such a busy<br />

world. Finding himself reducing as much clutter<br />

on the page as possible to create visually compelling<br />

imagery. This way of working gives him<br />

a therapeutic energy, which makes him feel in<br />

control and consistency with his work. He creates<br />

a strong reaction from music, art, and color.<br />

The collection that we are showing is called<br />

Conglomerate, which was an exploration in<br />

color combinations and distorting imagery. Exploring<br />

different shapes and colors inspired by<br />

80’s and 90’s fashion and design. He captures<br />

a sort of iconic imagery while subtracting from<br />

them and blending them with color in order<br />

to form these arrangements of deconstructed<br />

models, clothes, and pure hues.<br />

TEXT ELIZABETH ROSE<br />

As far as his dream job goes, he aspires to work<br />

in art direction, being able to utilize both his<br />

design and photography skills. Surrounded by a<br />

work field that’s artistic yet practical.<br />

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off with my head<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY ETHAN GUICE STYLING ELIZABETH ROSE<br />

Make-up and hair Malaka Sams<br />

Photography assistance Phoebe Beachner<br />

Styling assistance Brynn McKinstry<br />

Model Kharlybia Roane<br />

Collar by Savannah Hughes<br />

Choker Stylist’s own<br />

Necklace by Devin Orosio<br />

Bracelet and Shirt Stylist’s own<br />

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off with my head<br />

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All Jewelry by Ashton Neibel<br />

Dress Stylist’s own<br />

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Necklace Ashton Neibel<br />

Skirt and Bracelet Stylist’s own<br />

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Necklace and head piece by Devin Orosio<br />

Bracelet Verameat<br />

Vintage Kimono<br />

Belt and Underwear Stylist’s own<br />

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Necklace by Devin Orsoio<br />

Slip Stylist’s own<br />

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Dress by Morgan Marzulli<br />

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i-D Up & Coming Designer<br />

ANNA GUSSELNIKOVA,21<br />

FASHION DESIGNER<br />

BORN IN KAZAKHSTAN<br />

What issue(s) in the world do you pay attention to?<br />

I like to stay informed on anything that is going on in<br />

the world. Right now, my main focus is on the political<br />

situation in Ukraine and Russia because it is part<br />

of my culture.<br />

What do you do to help the issue(s) you are passionate<br />

about?<br />

I try to volunteer as much as possible when time permits.<br />

If I can’t I try to stay as informed as I can. Understanding<br />

the issues is a first step to solving them.<br />

How do you stay socially aware?<br />

Besides the usual media outlets we have to inform us,<br />

I like to travel and talk to the people who have been<br />

exposed to certain social situations and issues that<br />

are going on today.<br />

How do you make the world a better place?<br />

I try to stay as open minded as I can. Kindness and<br />

understanding go a long way.<br />

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g-star raw for the oceans<br />

TEXT BRYNN MCKINSTRY<br />

On September 1st, 2014 denim pioneer since<br />

1989 G-Star launched its eco initiative RAW for<br />

the Oceans, a collaborative project, with Bionic<br />

Yarn, which takes plastic from the world’s oceans<br />

and transforms it into innovative denim and apparel.<br />

The story of our world is both natural and manmade<br />

– and as we come to terms with the effect<br />

we’re having on our planet, we are taking a more<br />

active role in finding solutions. The depletion of<br />

natural resources is becoming evident, and these<br />

problems are bringing about changes on a planetary<br />

scale. Isolating ourselves from the industrial<br />

world and bringing us closer to the physicality<br />

of our natural environment is vital to Earth’s<br />

longevity. The global community is gathering to<br />

help avoid the loss of Earth as we know it. As our<br />

survival instincts kick in we explore alternative<br />

design solutions to basic needs. We take a more<br />

active role in preserving natural resources, raw<br />

materials and the Earth itself, and actively create<br />

solutions that rely on a less destructive relationship<br />

between mankind and nature. Sustainability<br />

is both the greatest marketing opportunity of<br />

our time and the biggest design challenge of<br />

our time because it will require the efforts of the<br />

entire supply chain to work in conjunction.<br />

Pharrell Williams, who serves as creative director<br />

of Bionic Yarn, said, “Working with G-Star was<br />

an obvious choice because they have a legacy<br />

of pushing the boundaries of fashion and denim<br />

forward. Bionic Yarn is a company built around<br />

performance, and denim is the perfect category<br />

to show the world what Bionic Yarn can do. Everyone<br />

has jeans in their closet.” Together they<br />

have created the world’s first high performance<br />

bionic eco-yarn, which can provide the answer<br />

to the 700 million tons of plastic ocean pollution.<br />

The RAW for the Oceans collection is the<br />

forefront of sustainable fashion. Environmental<br />

organizations such as the Sea Shepard Conservation<br />

Society USA and Plastic Pollution Coalition,<br />

amongst others, have highlighted the seriousness<br />

of plastic in our oceans. The issue of ocean plastic<br />

grows – each year alone, three times as much<br />

rubbish is dumped into the ocean as the weight<br />

of fish caught – so does the need for a solution.<br />

According to Sea Shepherd Conservation Society<br />

our oceans alone contain six times more plastic<br />

than sea life.<br />

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G-Star has joined forces with its partners, using<br />

groundbreaking technology to not only retrieve<br />

plastic from the oceans, but also transform it into a<br />

new generation of denim. To accompany the online<br />

release, the Dutch denim giant showcased the collection<br />

through a digital campaign of quirky gifs and<br />

illustrations. The price point for these recycled denim<br />

pieces range from about $200-$300.<br />

RAW for the Oceans is a long-term creative exploration,<br />

where Bionic Yarn and G-Star RAW have joined<br />

forces to innovate denim while making a serious impact<br />

on the plastic pollution in our oceans. If one of<br />

the key roles of our industry is to beautify the world,<br />

we have no greater responsibility than to do so ethically<br />

and sustainably. With corporate sustainability a<br />

constantly evolving issue it can be difficult to know<br />

where the next pressure point will emerge, but one<br />

thing that’s clear is that the depth of supply chain<br />

knowledge required is getting deeper. Manufacturers<br />

should know that retailers will want more information<br />

from further down the supply chain and brands are<br />

realizing that just going to that top tier garment manufacturer<br />

is not enough. Ultimately it’s up to brands<br />

to position sustainable products in a way that makes<br />

consumers want to buy them.<br />

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grey matter<br />

RYAN JAMES SMITH BY WESTON DOTY<br />

Hair Elizabeth Rose Stylist Brynn McKinstry Styling Assistant Taylor Ruparel Hair Assistant Brooke Benson<br />

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Dress by Angel Muktan<br />

Shoes model’s own<br />

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Top and shorts by Angel Muktan<br />

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Hoodie by Anna Gusselnikova<br />

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Shirt by Anna Gusselnikova<br />

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Pants by Angel Muktan<br />

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Shirt by Angel Muktan<br />

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Pants by Anna Gusselnikova<br />

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Pants by Devin Osorio<br />

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Stylist’s own blazer. BDG Jeans. Necklace by Zia.<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY GRAYSON DAVIS<br />

MODEL MAIYA-SIMONE PLATHER<br />

STYLING BROOKE BENSON<br />

Creative Director Brynn Mckinstry<br />

Hair/Make up Malaka Sams<br />

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B: What made you decide to establish Zia<br />

in Savannah rather than another city?<br />

Z: I realized that there was a niche in the market<br />

place that needed to be filled. I saw an opportunity.<br />

No other store in Savannah offers a product selection<br />

close to what we offer at Zia. After I graduated<br />

from SCAD I actually moved to New York for two<br />

years to find business opportunities. I later came<br />

back to visit Savannah and realized that there was a<br />

strong business opportunity here in Savannah.<br />

B: What inspires your jewelry designs?<br />

Z: I am very inspired by nature. You can see the<br />

theme throughout multiple collections in the store,<br />

particuarly the “Sticks & Stones” collection. It’s very<br />

abstracted, but there are pieces inspired by waterfalls,<br />

sticks, stones, leaves, etc.<br />

B: How would you describe your aesthetic?<br />

Z: Global chic. I like to describe my pieces as ‘global<br />

inspired, western designed.’<br />

mama mia, zia!<br />

TEXT/INTERVIEW BROOKE BENSON<br />

ZIA SACHEDINA is charming, attractive and<br />

talented...what more could one ask for? He has<br />

amazing taste and business savvy as the owner of<br />

Zia Boutique in Savannah, GA. Walking into Zia Boutique<br />

is always a lovely experience. The vast array<br />

of gorgeous jewelry designed by both Zia himself<br />

and an array of other talented designers will keep<br />

you looking for far longer than you originally intended.<br />

The staff is always charismatic and helpful when<br />

looking for something in particular. We sat down<br />

with Zia to ask him a few questions about himself<br />

and his thriving business.<br />

B: Where are you from originally?<br />

Z: Kenya<br />

B: How did you end up in Savannah?<br />

Z: SCAD came to my high-school to recruit international<br />

students, so that’s how I first heard of the<br />

school. I came to Savannah soon after, fell in love<br />

and decided to study jewelry design at SCAD.<br />

B: How long have you owned your boutique?<br />

Z: Since 2005, so 9 years. I opened the store when I<br />

was 24 years old.<br />

B: Where do you source materials for your<br />

designs?<br />

Z: Kenya, Brazil, India... I typically travel to source<br />

unique materials that you won’t see in other stores.<br />

We use a lot of coconut shells and bamboo in making<br />

the pieces.<br />

B: What is your current favorite piece in<br />

the store?<br />

Z: This multi-strand sapphire statement necklace<br />

with a jaguar head clasp. The jaguar head is made of<br />

sterling silver with white topaz stones and emerald<br />

eyes. It’s quite unique. (Retails for $795)<br />

B: What is your favorite thing to do here<br />

in Savannah?<br />

Z: I live downtown, so I enjoy walking the beautiful<br />

parks with my two miniature dachshunds. ‘Rails<br />

& Trails’ is also a great way to spend the day. It’s a<br />

beautiful miles long bike trail close to Tybee Island.<br />

B: Any political or social issues that you<br />

feel passionate about?<br />

Z: Absolutely. Save the elephants all the way! I am<br />

passionate about preserving African wildlife as well<br />

as working with other animal-driven charities. The<br />

Daphene Wildlife Foundation, ASPCA and Savannah<br />

Humane Society are all charities that we work with.<br />

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Stylist’s own top and pants.<br />

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Stylist’s own dress. Necklace by Zia.<br />

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Stylist’s own top and shorts.


Stylist’s own top and shorts.<br />

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talking mirrors<br />

TEXT BROOKE BENSON<br />

Standing before a wall of mirrors, I gaze at myself<br />

objectively. My body is simply a collection of lines,<br />

a form in which I reside. There is no criticism, disapproval<br />

or condemnation. Looking through my nineyear-old<br />

eyes, I see only a child. Judgement does<br />

not yet blur my vision, does not play cruel tricks on<br />

my eyes.<br />

By the age of nine I had been dancing at Miller<br />

Marley for nearly five years. My instructors were<br />

adults I looked up to as models of poise and control.<br />

Peering through the glass windows of Studio<br />

One, I imagined how one day I might be one of<br />

those graceful angels, performing a balancing act<br />

on wooden shoes.<br />

5:30pm. The tights, the leotard, the bag...<br />

the hair! Don’t forget the hair.<br />

6:00pm. File in...on with the shoes. “Pile, releve,<br />

lower...” a recorded voice would drone. The teacher<br />

came around and inspected our posture, our form,<br />

our point...and our bodies.<br />

“Pull that stomach in! Concentrate. Stop think about<br />

that McDonalds you had for dinner,” was Ms. Joan’s<br />

normal greeting. She was the first woman who ever<br />

taught me I had any reason to be dissatisfied with<br />

my body.<br />

A stiff, severe woman, Ms. Joan had all the warmth<br />

of a mannequin. With never a flaw in sight, she mesmerized<br />

me in a strange way. Her perfect blonde<br />

hair was most certainly a wig and I often got the<br />

inkling that she was not in fact human, but perhaps<br />

a robot sent to discern the human race, searching<br />

for those who reached her expectations.<br />

“There is a certain ‘dancer’ body type you must<br />

have if you want to succeed. Ballerinas are thin. The<br />

only way for you not to be fat is to stop eating all<br />

that junk you guys love,” she would preach, slipping<br />

shaming looks to any girl who had matured a bit<br />

faster than others, who had any trace of hips. She<br />

would conclude, “If you want to be thin, then no<br />

more candy bars for you.” Her words would echo in<br />

my mind...<br />

A couple of years ago, I ran into my old dance<br />

teacher. I had been struggling with anorexia for<br />

about a year at the time and needed desperately to<br />

gain weight. When Ms. Joan saw me, she practically<br />

gasped with delight. “Oh Brooke! You look fan-<br />

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DANNY ROBERTS<br />

tastic. So tall and thin!” Mustering a meek smile, I<br />

mumbled something incomprehensible and walked<br />

away, my head spinning.<br />

There I was, receiving acceptance from Ms. Joan<br />

that I had always sought but never obtained as a<br />

child. I was finally good enough for her, had finally<br />

cracked the code to her perception of “beauty.” So<br />

how did it feel? Joyous, bursting, as though I had<br />

finally won a great battle? This would have been<br />

foolish of me, seeing as how the battle had only<br />

begun. I must admit I felt a certain satisfaction in<br />

winning Ms. Joan’s approval, but I now realize that<br />

her perception was just as distorted as mine had<br />

been. I went on to struggle with my eating disorder<br />

for many years, and even now I fight everyday to<br />

keep myself happy, healthy and strong. My amazing<br />

family, especially my mother, has helped me do this.<br />

It has not been an easy journey, but it has made me<br />

so much stronger for having had the experience<br />

Despondency overwhelms me when I think of the<br />

countless girls who have been through Ms. Joan’s<br />

classes, all receiving the same negative message.<br />

They have grown up thinking that all of this was<br />

normal, with an innate belief that they will never be<br />

good enough...and nothing was ever done about it.<br />

Today, being well on my way in the process of<br />

recovery, I see that having gone through my eating<br />

disorder has ultimately given me a much healthier<br />

body image than most people will ever experience.<br />

Hopefully, drawing from my own experiences, I can<br />

help everyone in my life (the girls, boys, women<br />

and men) to establish a healthy body image. But I<br />

can only hope that all the other children who went<br />

through Ms. Joan’s class, many of them now adults,<br />

will have someone to love and support them as well.<br />

If I could be a healthy role model for just one person<br />

struggling with negative or distorted body image,<br />

my struggles will have not been in vain.<br />

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don’t mention the<br />

garment workers<br />

London-Friday September 12, 2014 began with the dropping<br />

of a vast banner reaching 30m on Waterloo Bridge, exposing,<br />

“Don’t Mention The Garment Workers.” As www.waronwant.<br />

com defined as,<br />

‘Activists are highlighting an event which, they<br />

say, promotes the creativity of the UK’s fashion<br />

industry, but is silent over the millions of workers<br />

who produce clothes for high street chains, often<br />

working long hours on poverty pay in unsafe<br />

conditions.’<br />

While Chanel’s closing attempt at a protest highlighted<br />

many issues in our culture right now (one of the<br />

main being feminism and women’s rights), fashion has<br />

had a long history with activism. Clothing has played<br />

a huge role in movements like women’s liberation and<br />

the anti-war efforts in the 60s and 70s, and continues<br />

to be important to brands like Vivienne Westwood and<br />

House of Riot. On the other hand, fashion has, until<br />

the past decade, been an industry relatively free from<br />

activist criticism. However, as this year’s London “Don’t<br />

Mention the Garment Workers” protest proves, it has<br />

been spotlighted as an industry full of corruption itself.<br />

This season, we saw the adoption of fashion activism<br />

commercially with Chanel’s end-of-show protest march.<br />

Because Chanel seems to always predict and describe<br />

the zeitgeist, we can expect a huge commercial explosion<br />

of fashion activism. The trick here is to adopt activism<br />

through other trends, such as logomania and prints,<br />

and to tread lightly as merchants, because activism can<br />

be a very polarizing issue. Customers, however, are<br />

starting to expect a message from their clothing, whether<br />

it is empowering, eco-friendly, political, or statement<br />

making. Consumers today seek an emotional bond with<br />

their clothing, rather than just an aesthetic one, and one<br />

of the best ways to connect a customer to a product is<br />

through shared ideas and statements.<br />

So next time you want to take part in activism, ask yourself<br />

if you’re going to wear it or act on it?<br />

TEXT RACHEL SCAFFE<br />

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Protesters gathered outside London Fashion<br />

Week shows to bring garment manufacturing, the<br />

often-forgotten and corrupt wing of the fashion<br />

industry, into the spotlight.<br />

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i-D FEATURED BUSINESS<br />

about 13 bricks<br />

13 Bricks Clothing Company, LLC, began as a plan<br />

to unify the culture of Savannah, Georgia. A breeding<br />

ground for young artists, Savannah offers a<br />

plethora of talent that the company felt was underexposed<br />

and lacked necessary publicity. Vann-Ellison<br />

and Emily Quintero met in the winter of 2010<br />

in the midst of their college experience; the two<br />

were working on a collaborative project with their<br />

colleagues, when they realized they shared a vision.<br />

Emily, known for her appreciation of aesthetics revered<br />

amongst peers for her personal style, presented<br />

a prototype for apparel designs. Vann-Ellison,<br />

having been born and raised Savannah, was frustrated<br />

with the limited access to cultural exposure in the<br />

city. They agreed to manifest their dream of establishing<br />

Savannah’s top artistic platform.<br />

TEXT BRYNN MCKINSTRY<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY MALLORY PREVATT<br />

MODELS MARKIE STROUD, KENDALL JACKSON<br />

& LYDIA HOLMAN<br />

STYLING BROOKE BENSON, BRYNN MCK-<br />

INSTRY & TAYLOR RUPAREL<br />

HAIR&MAKEUP MALLORY PREVATT<br />

about vann-ellison seales<br />

Vann-Ellison Seales was a precocious child<br />

whose eagerness to learn and curiosity were<br />

equally unquenchable. Vann was named after<br />

his uncle, Franklyn Vincent Ellison Seales, a<br />

blooming actor in the late 80s whose career<br />

was cut short with his untimely death. Vann inherited<br />

his eccentric mannerisms and personality<br />

traits although his uncle died months before<br />

his birth. Franklyn was known as a “total artist,”<br />

or Renaissance man, displaying many aptitudes<br />

for artistic crafts including but not limited to<br />

performing arts, and painting. In similar ways<br />

Vann innately had an unruly imagination and<br />

appreciation for story telling and art-making.<br />

Having been raised by a psychologist, Vann felt<br />

he was different than most other kids his age.<br />

Enthusiastic about games and puzzles, he fell<br />

in love with patterns and couldn’t resist analyzing<br />

and attempting to figure out life’s complexities.<br />

Taken from 13bricksclothing.com<br />

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T-Shirts provided by 13 Bricks<br />

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BM: What would you say was the biggest influence<br />

your parents had on you?<br />

VS: My parents consistently encouraged me to pursue<br />

art as a hobby and be expressive throughout my life. My<br />

mother had a background in education and my father,<br />

a psychologist, taught me to think critically and solve<br />

problems. I’ve always had a fascination with puzzles and<br />

games, which has been advantageous in envisioning 13<br />

Bricks and its future.<br />

BM: Whether its music, art, culture, or specific individuals<br />

what inspires you to create?<br />

VS: Surrounding myself with like-minded individuals<br />

(free-thinkers) has gone a long way to inspire and push<br />

me to overcome perceived limitations and venture<br />

outside my personal comfort zone and into uncharted<br />

territory. One of our primary objectives as a socially conscious<br />

company is to change the way humanity perceives<br />

the world. We<br />

demonstrate this change by continuing to adapt to circumstances<br />

and reinforcing a positive outlook along the<br />

way. We propagate our identity, aesthetic and ideals and<br />

the surrounding community resonates with it because<br />

they see the sincerity behind what we’re doing. The<br />

community fuels us to keep going, and offers us feedback.<br />

Our team is<br />

always trying new things as we continue to design our<br />

lifestyle and define our culture. Through this lens, I view<br />

my team members as courageous pioneers in the campaign<br />

for social change.<br />

BM: Being a Savannah local, what was the ultimate<br />

factor in deciding you wanted to attend SCAD?<br />

VS: I grew up thinking about it almost my entire life, it<br />

was always in the back of my mind. It wasn’t until I attended<br />

SCAD that I witnessed how few Savannah natives<br />

actually attend the school, or pursue art as a profession.<br />

I realized at some point that I had chosen the road less<br />

traveled for better or worse.<br />

BM: Graduating with a degree in sound design, how<br />

exactly did you make your way into the business<br />

after school?<br />

VS: I picked up screen-printing as a hobby, I saw clothing<br />

as a vehicle for the movement I sought to create. I was<br />

friends with illustrators, screen-printers, graphic designers,<br />

fashion students, photographers, film-makers-- as<br />

a local I found an opportunity to connect the dots and<br />

create a platform. I look at 13 Bricks as a multi-media<br />

platform as opposed to just a screen-printing company. I<br />

envision the company as a network that offers designers<br />

the opportunity to employ each other’s crafts and showcase<br />

one another’s skills in a professional setting.<br />

BM: What turned you away from pursuing a career in<br />

your area of expertise?<br />

VS: I would mainly say I made a lifestyle choice. I chose<br />

to invest energy in creating a community hub because I<br />

felt the potential and the need for improving the place<br />

I grew up in. I would say I’ve delayed my ambitions as a<br />

sound designer versus given up on them.<br />

BM: How exactly did the name 13 Bricks come<br />

about?<br />

VS: The choice in our name is an essential part of ourstrategy<br />

to stimulate our audience subconscious, leaving<br />

behind breadcrumbs for them to remember certain<br />

truths. Since antiquity humanity has utilized sets of 12 to<br />

order systems of measurement, time, astrology, mythology,<br />

and more. 13 is the first number in the next set, in<br />

this manner, 13 embodies change, or evolution. I believe<br />

13 is a key to unlocking hidden mysteries concealed from<br />

history and what we’ve been led to believe by educational<br />

institutions. We are the bricks; we are the components<br />

rebuilding a new world. The bricks are representative<br />

of us creating our own reality and working together<br />

to form structure.<br />

BM: What was your strategy for building a team of<br />

artists?<br />

VS: There is a natural ebb and flow of members, some<br />

peripheral and others more permanent, people either<br />

stick around or they don’t. We find that everyone’s position<br />

on the team has occurred naturally and continues to<br />

develop in an organic way.<br />

BM: What is the creative process for generating ideas<br />

or designs for a new t-shirt design?<br />

VS: Creative collaboration. Our process is fluid and constantly<br />

evolving.<br />

BM: Are you aware of where your materials/products<br />

used during the production stage are sourced?<br />

VS: American made organic cotton, sweatshop free and<br />

locally printed. Organic cotton and bamboo are both<br />

sustainable options, which we believe will become the<br />

standard in the clothing industry.<br />

BM: With the fashion industry shining light on sustainable<br />

practices, do you see printing companies also<br />

latching onto this trend?<br />

VS: Absolutely. Ultimately, the decision is in the hands<br />

of the consumer. Producers follow consumer spending<br />

trends almost always.<br />

BM: What do you think sets 13 Bricks apart from other<br />

local print shops?<br />

VS: We specialize in assisting artists achieve their goals<br />

and ensure quality control with unparalleled customer<br />

satisfaction when it comes to digital and screen printing.<br />

We are willing to collaborate and work with clients that<br />

want to experiment or try things new things. Rather than<br />

telling customers “No, we can’t do that,” we offer creative<br />

solutions for our customers.<br />

BM: At the rate technology is at where do you foresee<br />

the industry going?<br />

VS: Hard to say, we don’t have a crystal ball, but we are<br />

always willing to adapt to stay on top.<br />

BM: What steps are you or do you plan to take to get<br />

your business to the next level?<br />

VS: Constant feedback and self-evaluation helps keep us<br />

honest and maintains our integrity as leaders in Savannah’s<br />

artistic community.<br />

BM: Do you see 13 Bricks expanding in the foreseeable<br />

future?<br />

VS: Yes, our plans include fashion assembly and an<br />

introduction of more garment types, accessories and<br />

additional apparel. We are continuing to research large<br />

format textile printing and embroidery.<br />

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T-Shirts provided by 13 Bricks<br />

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ANGEL MUKTAN<br />

Fashion Designer<br />

What do you do to help the issue(s) you are<br />

passionate about? “Speaking in the context of<br />

fashion I would like to see the craft not be based<br />

on gender ; to not consider garments male or<br />

female but instead be just clothes and yes I would<br />

definitely want to empower the factory workers<br />

in third world countries since I myself come from<br />

one.”<br />

SAWYER GREENBERG<br />

Performing Arts & Model<br />

What issue(s) in the world do you pay attention<br />

to? “I would say every one I can. I really like to<br />

stay up to date but also I pay attention to issues<br />

that are affecting youth in any way. Also issues that<br />

have to do with what I want to do so issues of body<br />

image in the acting and modeling world etc.”<br />

KHARLYBIA ROANE<br />

Performing Arts & Model<br />

How do make the world a better place? “I try to<br />

make the world a better place by sharing a smile to<br />

people. Doesn’t matter if I know them or not.”<br />

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JESSICA DALY<br />

Fashion Designer & Model<br />

How do you stay socially aware? “I stay socially<br />

aware mostly with social media. I have an app for<br />

almost anything. I have apps for world news, celebrity<br />

news, and of course my very own social news.<br />

I look at each app at least once a day so I usually<br />

know what is going on around me. If I don’t it makes<br />

me feel lost and not updated so I’m always sure to<br />

keep up!”<br />

TIANYI WANG<br />

Fashion Designer & Model<br />

What issue(s) in the world do you pay attention<br />

to? “I wasn’t interested in any of the news before,<br />

but I make sure I pay attention to the news back<br />

home in China. Because when you are so far away,<br />

sometimes it feels like what happens in your own<br />

country is none of your business, since it won’t affect<br />

you directly, and I don’t like that. After I came<br />

to the United States, I started to read Chinese<br />

news more often. So when I go back home to China,<br />

I don’t have the “Oh, wait, this is so different<br />

when I left, I never knew it happened” moment.”<br />

KENDALL JACKSON<br />

Fashion Marketing & Management<br />

How do you make the world a better place?<br />

“To attempt to make the world a better place I just<br />

try to always keep a positive attitude and outlook<br />

towards everything in life and share that same positivity<br />

with others.”<br />

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i-D THE SPEAK UP ISSUE 127

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