Caribbean Compass Sailing Magazine

— Continued from previous page
To visit the frigatebird sanctuary in Barbuda you can hire a local guide from
Codrington who will take you there by a small motorboat. Or, if you have time and
muscle, you can take your kayak along the beach, all the way to the north corner
until you reach the driftwood decorated with ocean garbage, drag it across to the
mangrove lagoon and paddle inside the bird sanctuary, exploring noiselessly its
many narrow shallow channels. Thus, you will be able to spend as much time in the
colony as you wish, for free, like we did.
CHRIS DOYLE
best diving and snorkeling spots around Barbuda.
2) True, the island is away from the main Caribbean Cruising Highway (as I call
it), but it only means that there are no crowded anchorages and hordes of noisy
tourists. Instead there are secluded, pristine, unspoiled beaches, pink on top of that!
The people of Barbuda like their island to remain unpopular. They are not interested
much in tourist development, big hotels, and McDonalds. They are more interested
in peace and tranquility, tradition, and clean water and land.
3) True, there are not many weather-protected bays around Barbuda, except two
on the south side, but in calm weather and prevailing tradewinds you can anchor
safely and comfortably anywhere on the west side between the beach and the reefs,
in excellent holding. Only in wintertime when a northerly descends, are you better
off some other place.
MIRA NENCHEVA
Above: The anchorage at Low Bay. Codrington Lagoon is just on the other side
of the beach
Right: S/V Fata Morgana at anchor in ‘absolute tranquility’
We spent over an hour paddling in the mangrove maze surrounded by hundreds
of nesting frigates, their white heads with long beaks popping up from the bushes
like curious blossoms, or hovering above us like dark kites watching us suspiciously
as we were watching them with amazement, clacking and chattering, telling us
something important but, alas, incomprehensible to us.
By early afternoon we are back on the boat. After splashing in the warm crystalblue
waters, a math lesson, and some rest, we decide to make a fire on the beach
around sunset. Barbuda’s deserted beaches rich with driftwood are perfect for fullmoon-celebration
fires. We love beach fires and fires in general. We think they are
fascinating and have their own short lives, and it is always a great excitement building
them, lighting them and watching them burn.
As we are eating fire-roasted potatoes and sipping white wine, the full moon watching
over us, turtles crawling out of the sea in the darkness, black birds sleeping in
the branches of the mangrove world, we are counting the reasons why sailing to
Barbuda is in fact a good idea.
1) True, the reefs are dangerous for navigation, but with an adequate chart, a GPS,
a depth finder, and the good old eyeball technique, you will be fine! Once anchored,
the reefs teeming with fish, with their many wrecks, maybe even treasure chests
waiting to be found, are safe and beautiful to explore underwater. You may find the
And if you want to explore even more of the island, where horses and donkeys
roam free, take your dinghy or the water taxi across the lagoon to Codrington. There
are beautiful cliffs and caves at the edge of the highlands and you can check out the
ruins of Codrington Estate, the Darby Sink Hole, or one of the few restaurants where
you can enjoy traditional local dishes including the best charcoal-grilled lobster in
the region (and most probably in the world).
Turquoise waters, coral reefs, sea turtles, pink beaches, absolute tranquility and
seclusion, a mangrove maze, nesting frigatebirds, driftwood sculptures, beach fires,
caves, cliffs, a small quiet village, authenticity, good food, unforgettable sunsets,
unforgettable moonrises: how many more reasons do you need to sail to Barbuda?
Visit Mira’s blog at www.thelifenomadik.com.
NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19