Kitten Kindergarten - San Francisco SPCA

Kitten Care 

You’re taking home a kitten - what an adventure! Whether this is your first experience with felines, or if 

you’ve previously shared your life with them, this class will help answer some of your questions and 

help you prepare. Kittenhood lasts only a few months; they need to learn a lot about life and being a 

cat in this time and you’ll be there to enjoy watching and help them along. 

This will be the start of a long, rewarding relationship. To start off on the right 

paw, here are the essentials for the kitten: 

Basic Things Your Kitten Will Need: 

A small, quiet and safe space where she will be initially confined 

Litter box, litter & scoop 

Cozy sleeping place (this can be the carrier you take her home in) 

Food dish and water bowl 

Toys for solitary play 

Interactive toys 

Scratching post/cat tree 

Cat brush 

Claw clippers 

Kitten food 

Fresh, clean water 

Safety collar and I.D. tag 

Microchip (The SF/SPCA does microchip all animals) 

And, the essentials for you are: a camera (kittens are so photogenic), patience, and a sense of 

humor. 

Introduction to the New Home: 

All kittens need to be confined to a very small room when they first get to 

their new home (this could be a bathroom, small office or well ventilated 

walk-in closet). Confine your new kitten for at least 24 hours (up to 

several weeks for shyer kittens). This will help them adjust to their new 

surroundings faster, so they can focus on having fun with YOU! 

Confinement also helps them with litter box refresher training. They will 

need food, fresh water, and on the opposite side of the room, a litter 

box. Kittens and cats love small cozy places, and your new kitten will 

need a warm, secure spot for naps. Many adopters use the carrier 

provided to make a safe spot. Once the kitten has hopped out, the 

carrier can be placed on its side, and an old towel or small blanket 

placed inside-an excellent bed. While confined (24 hours a day), the 

human family will visit often, cuddling and playing. Limit the number of family members who interact 

with the kitten at once, so as not to overwhelm him. 

Plan to leave small, quiet toys out for the kitten to play with when he’s alone. Make sure these toys 

are not so small that a kitten might ingest them and watch for small parts that a kitten might chew 

off. 

When visiting with your new kitten, be sure to always bring along interactive toys - the new kitty will 

need at least two active playtimes (with you) every single day, probably for all of his or her life. 

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While the kitten is confined is the perfect time to start her acclimation to your schedule-as much as 

possible with cats. Have a good long playtime immediately before you go to sleep so the kitten will 

be tired and more likely to sleep during the night. If the kitten meows at night, unless 

you feel that it is hurt or ill, ignore it. It can sometimes take days before they learn 

not to cry at night, and if you go in to visit, it will reinforce the attention seeking 

behavior. 

Finally, until the kitten is self-confident enough to feel at home with everyone in 

your home and the home itself, confine him to a single room (with litter box, etc.) 

while you are not there to supervise him. 

Cat Carrier: 

Your kitten will need a sturdy plastic carrier, large enough to give her room even when she is full 

grown. (A cardboard one will work for a few visits, though.) To get her used to 

the carrier, leave it out and open in the house, and put a few food treats 

inside. This will help her associate it with good things, and she will be less 

fearful of it. When it is necessary to take her to the vet, it is a good idea earlier 

in the day to entice her into a small room (with few hiding places), like a 

bathroom, let her settle there, and then take the carrier in there to place her 

into it. This will prevent having to chase your kitten to try to get her into her carrier. 

Kitten proofing & Safety: 

Kittens, you will find, will play with anything-especially anything they can make move. That means 

that you will need to check your home out from a kitten’s viewpoint. Any electrical cords or wires 

should be bundled and hidden, because kittens are tempted to chew on them or 

pull out plugs. Plastic bags need to be kept away from the kitten (many cats are 

attracted to these bags and will eat them). Kittens love to play in paper bags, 

but please cut the handles off first, so the kitten can’t get caught in them. 

String, yarn, rubber bands and ribbon are dangerous for cats as they will 

swallow them. The barbs on their tongues make it impossible for them to 

remove the string from their mouths once swallowed, and this can lead to costly 

surgery to repair the internal damage and save their lives. Look around for 

valuable, breakable objects that your kitten might knock over and be 

prepared to put them away until your kitty mellows. 

And, finally, while the kitten is still confined, make sure there are no tiny 

places where he could run if frightened, and hide, and then be difficult 

to find. Plan to block access to those kinds of spaces, especially behind 

stoves, refrigerators, etc. Recliner chairs, motors, washers and dryers are 

very dangerous places that kittens may try to hide in, too. Then there 

are windows and doors. No matter what you might have heard about 

cats falling from windows and surviving, that doesn’t happen often. 

Most do not survive or are very badly injured. Making certain that a 

kitten cannot insert a paw into the window and push it open, and 

making certain that you have tight fitting screens in any open window 

(even if only open an inch!) is very important. Cats should never have 

access to an open, unprotected window. 

Some household plants and flowers are poisonous to cats. There are lists 

available on the internet as well as through The SF/SPCA. Human 

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medications, many cleaning solutions and anti-freeze are also very poisonous to cats. These must all 

be put away where the kitten cannot get at them - and they do have agile little paws. You can use 

cupboard latches used to baby-proof kitchens to keep your kitten away from these items. 

Keeping Your Kitten Indoors: 

Indoor cats live longer, healthier lives than those who are allowed to go 

outdoors. Just as responsible parents do not let their children play in the 

street, responsible pet guardians don’t allow their pets to, either. Feline 

Leukemia (FELV) and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) are two 

major illnesses contracted through contact with other cats. Cats 

involved in fights with other cats, dogs, raccoons, or other animals 

often are badly injured, and require expensive medical care. 

Additionally, many cats are lost forever, too frightened to find their way 

home, and may even starve to death. And, although some folks 

believe it, cats are not “street smart”. A car means little to a cat, and 

they do not instinctively know to run from one. A cat-proof enclosure in 

your back yard can allow your cat some safe, outdoors time. 

Regardless, even in the safest of situations, kittens should never be let 

outside until over the age of 6 months, and only if they have had all the 

appropriate shots. 

Preventing Escapes: 

Kittens can move quickly, and they may be tempted to dart out your 

door if given the chance. First of all, make sure not to leave your doors to 

the outside open for longer than necessary for you to get in or out! This is 

something that needs to be discussed with all members of an active 

household (such as a multi-roommate situation, or a home with children 

or children who visit often) so everyone understands the danger of 

escape. Cats and kittens are easily frightened and overwhelmed when 

out of their safe territory, and may panic and hide, or worse, bolt into the 

street. 

Establish an area away from the door as your “Goodbye and Greeting 

Zone.” Before you leave, and when you get home, give your cat a treat 

in this area. 

Entertaining: 

Until your kitten is acclimated and comfortable in the house, large parties, or noisy groups of people 

will just frighten him. If you do plan a gathering, it is best to confine the kitten to one room, with food, 

water, litter box and toys, and perhaps bring guests, (a few at a time), to meet him. Holidays are 

particularly stressful for many cats as are fireworks - your kitten might want to hide then. We do not 

recommend adopting a kitten during holidays - they, and you, will have a better chance of settling in 

when it is quiet and stable in your home. 

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Socialization: 

Kittens are very tiny, and even though very active and athletic, they are 

fragile! That means, handle with care, but definitely handle them! The more 

consistent, gentle petting they receive, the more social they will become. Plan 

to spend two or three sessions every day handling and petting your kitten, 

even talking to him or her-most cats and kittens respond to quiet talk. Gentle 

petting all over their bodies (including the ears and mouth) will help them feel 

comfortable when the veterinarian needs to exam them. Likewise, massaging 

toes and paws will make them more at ease when claw-clipping time comes. 

Like human babies, kittens need lots of nap time, so do not bother them when 

they’re sleeping, but let them get their rest. If your kitten is squirming when you 

pick her up, do not force her to be held. Instead, let them continue to explore when they start to 

squirm - just plan to have more frequent, brief cuddle sessions. Do not allow anyone to “over-pet” the 

kitten-especially on tummies and backs-the kitten may respond by nipping or swatting. Being 

handled this way is very uncomfortable for the kitten and is often perceived as being threatening. 

And, no one wants to have their kitten get in the habit of nipping or of 

having a kitten who is frightened of human hands. 

Ideally, when you have quiet guests visit, introduce them to the kitten - 

getting to know a lot of people will help the kitty understand that visitors 

are okay. But, again, don’t force the issue. Luring the kitten to interact with 

a toy on a wand or stick, and letting the kitten come to the guests is the 

best plan. Exposing the kitten to both men and women is a good idea, 

too, as some kittens become fearful around people who are larger, or 

have deeper voices, or a higher pitched voice, due to lack of exposure to 

different people. These socialization times will have a long term impact on 

both the kitten and the family. Kittens need a lot of affection and 

interaction from their family. 

Parents must be willing to supervise children’s interaction with the kitten and teach them how to 

safely, respectfully and appropriately handle the kitten. 

Playtime: 

Kitten playtime looks like just that-play. It is actually training for the hunting skills that are so natural to 

most cats: pouncing, running, stalking, ambushing and climbing. It is for this reason that they so enjoy 

bird-like or rodent-like toys-they think they are going after prey. Each play session should last 15-20 

minutes - or longer for the very athletic kitties. All cats and kittens like play, but some need more than 

others. 

Kittens generally need lots of interactive playtime and will continue to need 

play as 

they grow into adults. It is essential that you never play with the kitten with 

your hands or “roughhouse” with the kitten. This includes wiggling fingers to 

entice the kitten to attack or wrestling with her. Also, holding a small mouse 

or ball type toy in your hand and wiggling that can also lead the kitten to 

think your hand is a toy. Cats need to understand that hands are for gentle 

petting, and only toys are for playtime. A grown cat who hasn’t learned to differentiate 

between toys and hands will not be a safe companion. With consistent treatment from 

everyone the kitten will learn to trust humans and you’ll all enjoy his playtime. If you have been 

playing with interactive toys, remember to take the toy with you when not playing. These toys 

can be dangerous if the cat is left alone with it, because they may try to eat them. Also plan to 

purchase or make a variety of interactive toys- like humans, cats get bored with the same old thing. 

Kittens who do not have the stimulation of playtime and petting will likely be shy and withdrawn and 

never develop their complete personalities. Even though they are so small, kittens are nearly as agile 

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as adult cats, and will do amazing things going after toys. For more information, read 

“How to Play with Your Cat” available in the Cat Behavior Library at www.sfspca.org 

Although they are likely to be most active in the morning and evening, you will 

probably hear a lot of midnight madness, too. Kittens sleep a lot, and they need 

it, but they may well tear around the house at night, attacking imaginary foes. 

This is normal kitten behavior, and not something to be concerned about 

unless it happens very often. Again, a lengthy play session before bedtime 

may help with this behavior. 

Kitten Energy: 

Kittens will be curious about everything. They will fly around the house, seeming to chase nothing at 

all, or will stare at a spot on the wall-until everyone else is staring, too, wondering what we are all 

looking at. Their senses of smell and hearing are far superior to ours, and they may hear insects or 

mice inside the walls. 

Routine: 

All cats thrive on routine in their lives – they like stability and knowing when they can 

anticipate feeding, playtime and attention which all helps reduce stress. We recommend 

that anything that can be done on a schedule, such as feeding, playtime, affection, and 

grooming, happen at around the same time(s) each day. 

Positive Reinforcement: 

Punishment never works with cats - they are busy being cats and kittens-their behavior is cat 

behavior, not human behavior. That’s what makes them such fun! They do not understand 

being punished for just being themselves. 

Punishment will cause them to be fearful and neurotic, and possibly lead to aggressive behaviors 

such as swatting and biting. Yelling at a kitten or chasing it will further terrify her. Using positive 

reinforcement for good behavior is far more likely to have the desired effect. If a kitten nips or swats, 

it is best to just stop whatever is going on at the time and say “no” or “ouch” in a high pitched voice – 

just enough to startle the kitten. Then after a 15 second “time-out”, you can allow some playtime 

with an interactive toy. If the reward comes too soon, kitty will soon be swatting you every time she 

wants to play. Please see “Just say No, Cats and the Crime of Punishment?” Available in the Cat 

Behavior Library at www.sfspca.org 

Litter box: 

It is best to have at least one litter box per cat, and ideally one extra. We 

suggest regular unscented clay litter. For particularly small kittens, a box with 

lower sides may be necessary, at least until they grow a bit more, so they 

can climb in easily. Veterinarians recommend not using clumping litter for 

kittens, as they tend to ingest too much of it when grooming themselves, 

which can cause a deadly intestinal blockage. Keep the litter box 

immaculately clean, and in a safe, quiet spot where the kitten will have privacy. Many litter box 

problems occur because the cat does not feel safe using the box or the litter box is not kept clean 

enough. Start off right away by keeping the kitten’s “bathroom” immaculate. For more information 

on litter box training see “Litter Box Basics” available in the Cat Behavior Library at www.sfspca.org 

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Cat Tree or Scratching Post: 

All cats need to scratch, as it keeps their muscles and claws in shape and is a stress 

releaser. We recommend that you purchase or make a cat tree or scratching post. It 

needs to be tall enough and heavy enough that they can grow into it – so that when 

an adult cat stretches full length it cannot knock the post over. Many cats have a 

preference as far as texture goes: cat trees with both sisal rope and carpeting can 

help satisfy your kitten’s needs. You will need to encourage your kitten to scratch 

on its scratching post. For more information, see “Teaching Your Cat to Use a 

Scratching Post” available in the Cat Behavior Library at www.sfspca.org 

Claw Clipping: 

Cats’ claws need to be clipped regularly. We recommend you use a clipper designed for that 

purpose, they are available at pet supply stores. Routinely 

clipping claws on your kitten will help him be more accepting 

of it as he grows up. We have a Cat Claw Clipping Clinic 

twice a month at the Leanne Roberts Center at 201 

Alabama Street. Call 554-3030 for details! 

Grooming: 

Even though they are known to be very clean and tidy animals, cats do have a lot of 

fur, and they will shed. Brushing and combing are excellent ways to bond with 

your kitten as well as keeping all that fur under control. Many cats can’t keep 

up with their own grooming, and brushing will help eliminate fur balls. Soft 

to medium bristle brushes are best, and again, starting while they are 

young, and grooming them regularly is best. Many cats enjoy being 

brushed, but you might need to make this more fun by giving a treat 

when grooming. This is also one of the best ways to deal with fleas on 

kittens-use a flea comb, and comb regularly. Flea collars are not the 

best way to deal with the problem, so if you do find 

fleas on your kitten, continue to comb and check 

with your vet for the best, safest solution. 

Food and Water: 

Each cat in the household needs its own food dish, and some will be willing to share water bowls. Be 

aware of how much food your kitten eats as it is essential that they eat well – they are growing a lot 

at this point in their lives! Discuss feeding issues with the veterinarian on your first visit. 

If you have multiple cats it is best to separate their food dishes by at least 18”. Since 

a kitten will need to be fed kitten food, adults and kittens should be fed separately. 

And, no milk, cats don’t need it, and in fact many cats are made ill by drinking it. 

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Medical Concerns: 

Kittens and cats hide illness very well, so it is important to watch carefully for signs of illness. Some 

things to notice: Is the kitten eating, drinking and using the litter box regularly? Is he lethargic when 

he’s 

usually very energetic? Does his fur coat look less healthy, and is he 

grooming himself routinely? Does the kitten strain or cry when using the 

litter box? Does he have diarrhea (which can be very serious when 

prolonged in kittens)? Is he sneezing or does he have watery eyes? 

Is he shaking his head a lot, or scratching at his ears? Since kittens 

can become ill quickly, any of these signs can mean it is time to 

contact the vet. 

Visits to the Veterinarian: 

All cats should have annual checkups with the vet. Kittens, who 

need extra immunizations, will need to go to the doctor more 

often at first. Many illnesses can be detected in their early stages 

with these annual visits. Ask your vet to explain what symptoms to 

look for related to common illnesses. Be prepared, too, for 

emergencies. Have the name of emergency veterinary services 

handy, and know how to get there in a hurry if necessary. 

Multi-Cat Households: 

If there are other cats in the household, a slow introduction is very important. Keep in mind the size 

difference between the kitten and any adult cats. They might enjoy playing 

together, but the larger cat might inadvertently injure the kitten so they need 

to be watched carefully. Don’t be surprised to see your kitten become the 

more dominant kitty in the household as he or she grows older, bigger and 

stronger. For more information see our “Cat-to-Cat Introduction 

Protocol” available in the Cat Behavior Library at 

www.sfspca.org 

And finally… 

Have a wonderful, long life with your new companion. You will find that sharing your life with a cat is 

a never ending source of unconditional love and wonder. Cats will continue to surprise and delight us 

all of their lives. They give so much back in return for the care we give them! Enjoy your little tiger - 

who in most ways is just a very tiny version of his very large wild relatives. 

For more information about cat behavior please visit www.sfspca.org 

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From the San Francisco SPCA Cat Behavior Program 

A BOOK LIST FOR CONSCIENTIOUS CAT OWNERS 

The following selection of books will give you a good overview of our feline friend, the 

domestic cat. You will find different ideas and opinions, but the basics of these particular 

books should give you a wonderful foundation for understanding the inside and outside of 

your cat. 

1. Think Like a Cat: How to Raise A Well-Adjusted Cat, Not a Sourpuss, by Pam 

Johnson-Bennett. A comprehensive book which covers basic health care and 

behavior, as well as behavior modification techniques to solve problem behaviors. 

2. Twisted Whiskers: Solving Your Cat’s Behavior Problems, by Pam Johnson- 

Bennett. Another good book by Pam Johnson on cat behavior. “Johnson’s catfriendly, 

no-nonsense techniques glow with common sense and insight…a practical 

guide and an inspiration.” (quote from The Crossing Press). 

3. The Cat Who Cried For Help, by Dr. Nicolas Dodman. He advocates the use of 

drug therapy a little more than most behaviorists, but also talks about the 

behavioral modification steps that can be used without medication, or in conjunction 

with medication. 

4. Know Your Cat: An Owner’s Guide to Cat Behavior, by Bruce Fogle, DVM. This 

book has outstanding photographs documenting cat behavior. 

5. The Cat’s Mind: Understanding Your Cat’s Behavior, by Bruce Fogle, DVM. More 

in-depth text on cat behavior. 

6. The New Natural Cat: A Complete Guide for Finicky Owners, by Anitra Frazier. 

This book is a “must” for every cat owner. The author covers issues not commonly 

written about including how to pill a cat easily, grooming tips, and nutritional advice. 

For more information about Cat Behavior 

Visit www.sfspca.org 

Want to know more? Read “Litter Did You Know”, the official Cat Behavior Blog of 

the San Francisco SPCA 

www.sfspcacat.blogspot.com 

G:\Adoption\Adoption\Forms and Procedures\Adoption Packet Handouts\Cat Adoption Packet updated 04/23/09

CAT FEEDING SCHEDULE 

This is what your new cat has been eating here at The SF/SPCA. We suggest keeping the same 

diet in the beginning to avoid stomach troubles. When changing the diet, do so gradually 

to avoid digestive upset. Remember to always have fresh water (not milk) available for your 

cat. 

Kittens (until 6 months old) receive the following Wet & Dry food in separate dishes 

• 1/3 cup of Purina One kitten dry - twice a day PLUS 

• 1/2 can of Purina Fancy Feast kitten wet (3 oz. can) - twice a day 

Adult Cats (6 months and older) receive the following Wet & Dry food in separate dishes 

• 1/2 cup of Purina One cat dry - once a day 

OR 1/4 cup - twice a day 

• 1/4 can of Purina Friskies Chicken and Liver wet (6 oz. can) – twice a day 

Please consult your own veterinarian for your pet’s long term nutritional needs. 

updated 9/3/09

The San Francisco SPCA Cat Behavior Program Presents 

Cat Claw Clipping Clinic 

Come Deal with those daggers! 

The Cat Behavior Program is offering Nail Trimming twice a month for your 

favorite feline(s) 

1 st Sunday of Each Month 

10am – 11am 

Location: 

Spay/Neuter Clinic in the 

Leanne B. Roberts Animal Care 

Center 

201 Alabama Street, just around the 

corner from the main SF/SPCA building 

on 16 th Street. 

3 rd Sunday of Each Month 

10am – 11am 

Location: 

Spay/Neuter Clinic in the 

Leanne B. Roberts Animal Care 

Center 

201 Alabama Street, just around the 

corner from the main SF/SPCA building 

on 16 th Street. 

$20 flat fee for all claws. 

Please bring all cats in carriers – cats without a carrier or in a trap will not be accepted. 

For information: (415)522-3525 

Get your cat’s nails trimmed and help support the cats and dogs at the SF/SPCA!

Frequently Asked Medical Questions 

Has my dog or cat had all of their vaccinations? 

We have provided basic vaccinations appropriate for the age of your new 

companion. Depending on your area and lifestyle your veterinarian may advise 

additional vaccinations. Puppies and kittens receive vaccinations in a series. 

It is important for you to contact your veterinarian and complete this series. 

The vaccinations we provide for cats and kittens are appropriate for an 

indoor only lifestyle. If you plan to let your cat outside please inform your 

veterinarian and plan on additional vaccinations. Be advised that cats allowed outdoors are at risk 

for a variety of diseases and dangers. 

Do you guarantee my new companion is free of fleas and worms? 

No. We have given your new cat or dog a worming treatment and a flea treatment but we cannot 

guarantee this was 100% effective. Speak with your veterinarian if you suspect worms or fleas and 

to arrange regular parasite control. Any further treatments for fleas or worms are not covered by the 

SF/SPCA. 

Why should I take my new companion to a veterinarian right away, didn’t you 

check her out thoroughly? 

All of our animals receive a basic health evaluation before adoption given by an animal technician. 

Unless your animal appeared ill during her stay, she might not have received a complete 

examination by a veterinarian. The SF/SPCA offers no guarantee that the animal you have adopted 

is 100% healthy. It’s important to get the opinion of a qualified veterinarian on the health of your new 

animal. Bring your new companion to your veterinarian for a thorough examination and discuss your 

lifestyle plans for your cat or dog so that your vet can tailor the proper vaccinations and parasite 

control. Your vet can answer your medical questions and advise you on general care and proper 

diet. Most San Francisco veterinarians offer this first visit FREE if used within 3 working days 

of the adoption date. 

What happens when my ShelterCare 30-day Gift of Insurance expires? 

Your coverage will lapse and you will be responsible for all charges incurred in relation to veterinary 

services after that time. We encourage you to call ShelterCare within the time frame listed on your 

policy document to obtain and additional 15 days of insurance at no extra charge. If you choose to 

continue with an insurance plan you will be able to protect your animal’s health and potentially save 

thousands of dollars over the life of your companion.

Important Medical Information 

Your adoption packet contains medical records for your newly adopted cat or dog. These records document all 

tests, vaccinations, and parasite treatments that were performed at the SF/SPCA. They also contain information 

about any illnesses or conditions that were diagnosed, what treatment was given, and what kind of follow up, if 

any, is recommended. Please take these records with you to your first introductory appointment with your private 

veterinarian. Your veterinarian may contact us at (415) 554-3030 if anything needs clarification. Most San 

Francisco veterinarians offer a FREE “get to know you” visit within three working days of your adoption. 

Be sure to call a veterinarian today! (The SF/SPCA does not make veterinarian recommendations.) 

VACCINATIONS 

All animals are given basic vaccinations before being placed for adoption. Consult a veterinarian to determine 

whether additional vaccinations are indicated, and to determine a vaccination schedule for the future. 

Kittens and puppies need a series of vaccinations to protect their health. (These are comparable to “booster 

shots” that children receive.) If you adopted a young animal, he or she may not have completed the series. 

Consult a private veterinarian to make sure that your new friend gets the entire series. Please note that puppies 

and kittens under four months do not receive heartworm or FELV tests, respectively. 

Cats are vaccinated by the SF/SPCA for an indoor-only lifestyle, as we recommend an indoor-only lifestyle to 

protect them from exposure to injury and disease. They are tested, but not vaccinated, for FELV/FIV. They are not 

vaccinated for rabies. If your cat may go outdoors in the future, s/he will need additional vaccines. Please 

discuss this with your veterinarian. 

Dogs over four months have been tested for heartworm and have been given basic vaccinations, including 

rabies. Dogs under four months cannot be vaccinated for rabies. The rabies vaccination is documented on your 

medical records, and this can be used as verification in order to obtain a dog license in your own county. San 

Francisco residents who adopt dogs over four months receive a dog license at the time of adoption. Your 

veterinarian will determine whether your lifestyle, for example, plans to take the dog camping or hiking, requires 

that your dog receive additional vaccinations. 

FLEAS AND WORMS 

Fleas and worms are the most common parasites in dogs and cats. Our animals have received a treatment for 

fleas, if needed, and a treatment for worms; some animals require additional treatments. Please consult your 

veterinarian regarding additional parasite treatments and about establishing an ongoing preventative program for 

parasites, including heartworm. 

SF/SPCA DOES NOT COVER ANY FURTHER VACCINATIONS OR PARASITE TREATMENTS FOR YOUR 

NEWLY ADOPTED ANIMAL. 

ShelterCare 30-DAY GIFT INSURANCE COVERAGE 

If you provided us with your e-mail address, you will automatically receive an e-mail from ShelterCare Pet Health 

Insurance Company. Simply click on the link and you will be able to download all the pertinent information. The 

ShelterCare Gift commences 48 hours after adoption and provides $750 of coverage for treatment of any of the 

conditions listed below. A $75 deductible is applicable per policy. 

Accident Coverage: Foreign Body Ingestion Removal, Motor Vehicle Accident, Lacerations, Insect Bites/Stings, 

Defined Poison Ingestion, Bone Fracture 

Illness Coverage: Eye and Ear Illnesses, Flea Allergy Dermatitis, Intestinal Parasites, Urinary Tract Infections, 

Upper Respiratory Tract Infections, Mange/Mites/Ringworm, Parvovirus/Feline Panleukopenia, Tick Borne 

Diseases, Heartworm Disease. 

PLEASE NOTE THAT SHELTERCARE INSURANCE WILL NOT COVER TREATMENT FOR ANY 

PREEXISTING CONDITIONS. 

20% DISCOUNT AT THE SF/SPCA VETERINARY HOSPITAL FOR THE FIRST 30 DAYS AFTER ADOPTION 

We are pleased to be able to provide a 20% discount on any services performed at the SF/SPCA Veterinary 

Hospital at the Leanne B. Roberts Animal Care Center for the first 30 days after adoption. Please call for an 

appointment at 415-554-3030.


PETTING-INDUCED AGGRESSION 

Most people who have had cats before will tell you that at 

some point they have been nipped during petting. Many tend to shrug 

it off as “love nips”, or play bites. Other times the nips can be harder, 

seeming to come out of the blue and leaving the person wondering why 

their cat would react this way during a moment of affection. 

This behavior may actually be your cat trying to tell you something about his or her 

preferences and tolerance levels. Learning what your cat is trying to communicate may 

actually help improve your relationship with your feline companion, and maybe even 

decrease your cat’s desire to nip or bite altogether. 

Some petting-induced aggression may be related to mating behavior and the 

overstimulation that can occur during this interaction. Purring and kneading may lead to the 

biting and holding that occurs in pre-copulatory behavior. Other types of petting 

aggression may be due to the fact that cats evolved as mostly solitary animals that tend to 

have little physical contact with others of their own species, making them more sensitive 

to contact. Some cats have experienced inappropriate handling as a kitten and may have 

learned to nip or swat to stop the interaction. Petting aggression can also be affected by 

physical pain or discomfort if a cat is sick or has arthritis. 

The most common scenarios are: 

* Your cat is relaxed and happy on your lap, you're watching TV and petting her 

absentmindedly...suddenly she turns and bites. 

*Your cat starts to swish his tail in response to your petting. You keep petting, and then he 

hisses and swats, or gives you a nip and runs off. 

*Your cat does not like certain areas of her body touched. The most common "sensitive 

spots" are paws, lower back, belly, and chest. If you pet her in those spots, she will bite 

you. 

* Your cat gets over-excited (also called over-stimulated) while being petted. Usually, the 

kitty will start moving faster, head butt your hand, become agitated and busy, and at some 

point during the escalating energy, will bite or scratch you. 

A majority of cats exhibit over-stimulation or petting aggression to some degree. 

However, cats vary enormously as to the extent to which they like petting or handling and 

for how long they tolerate these without finding it unpleasant. They also vary greatly in 

the number of warning signals and intensity of their resulting aggressive reaction if 

warning signals are not seen, or are ignored. Many times, the cat has learned to bite in 

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order to stop the person from petting. This happens if the cat is getting worked up and 

warnings are ignored. The cat subsequently goes to the last resort - aggression. When 

the cat, over time, realizes that biting always ends the petting session, they may stop 

doing as much warning, and skip to the chase, as it were. 

Body language of cats 

Cats almost always give warning signals before biting or scratching. Cats are very subtle in 

their body posturing by nature, so these signals are sometimes difficult to pick up on at 

first. Some cats only start swishing their tail when they’re getting worked up, while others 

may almost always swish their tail, only to swish harder just before giving a nip. Watch 

cats closely and try to learn that cat’s particular body language. Cats may have one main 

signal, such as lowering their ears, or they may give you a few different signals. 

Common signals include: 

• tail swishing or flicking 

• flattening or twitching ears 

• cranky meow or drawn-out vocalization 

• staring or pupilary dilation 

• quick head turn to watch your hand as you pet 

• stillness or tenseness 

• shifting body position repeatedly 

• a cranky or drawn out meow 

• twitching of the back (often described as “skin 

rolling”) 

• hissing and growling 

• raising a paw at you and walking away and lying down 

Being Enticed by the Belly 

You’re sitting on your couch having a wonderful petting 

session with your cat Fluffy. She’s kneading, purring and 

rubbing up against you for more attention. She lies down 

and rolls over onto her back, exposing her beautiful 

belly – as if saying “please pet my stomach now”. You 

reach down lovingly to stroke her belly, but as soon as 

you do, she bites your hand, hisses and runs away. 

What happened? 

It’s easy to misinterpret your cat’s body language signals. While your cat may be showing 

you that she trusts you enough to expose her belly, she isn’t necessarily inviting you to pet 

her there. If you know this can be a sensitive spot for your kitty, your best bet is stick to 

other areas that she does like, even if she’s exposing her belly to you. 



Aggression.doc


The “Elevator Butt” 

A misinterpretation of body language can also happen when 

you’re petting your cat’s lower back and he or she gets 

“elevator butt” (the cat pushes upward with his/her rear end 

while your petting near the tail). While your cat may seem to 

really enjoy this type of petting, this area is especially 

sensitive and likely to get the cat over-stimulated quickly. A 

recent study at the Massey University in New Zealand looked 

at cats’ reactions and tolerance levels according to certain 

body areas. The study found that cats preferred petting on 

their head and cheeks the most, with petting on their lower 

back being the least favorite spot. However, if you know your 

cat enjoys or tolerates this type of petting, it is okay to do it 

in moderate amounts. 

How to work with petting-induced aggression: 

The first thing to keep in mind is that it is very important to avoid getting the cat to the 

point where it is over stimulated or irritated. Even if you feel okay with the aggressive 

behavior (some people may think, "it’s OK if he bites, I don't mind”) you should remember 

it indicates that the cat is under stress. It also reinforces the biting habit and may 

increase aggressive incidents and/or intensity. This is probably due to the kitty feeling 

less trustful of handling. So, if you know the cat may get over stimulated after about 5 

minutes of petting, then only pet the cat for 4 minutes. Or, if you know the cat doesn’t like 

to be petted a certain way or in a particular area of the body, avoid doing so as much as 

possible. In time you can increase the duration of each petting session a little, and see if 

the cat’s tolerance level has changed. 

In many instances, if the cat has the freedom to get away from a 

situation that is over-stimulating him, he will choose to do that 

instead of aggress. The following will help in behavior modification: 

• Pair petting sessions with something pleasurable, such as treats. 

Always get your veterinarian’s approval if unsure as to whether 

a treat will be okay for your cat- or tell your vet that you need 

treats for behavior modification, and ask them to recommend 

some. Some popular treats are meat-based baby foods (make 

sure they are made of meat only, without onion or garlic, which 

are extremely toxic to cats), Bonito fish flakes, or Pounce. 



Aggression.doc


• Keep things short and sweet! Exercise restraint and always try to stop the handing 

before things get ugly. If you have repeated short sessions always ending on a positive 

note, your cat may start to look forward to them! 

• Watch your cat! This may very well be the most important bit of advice you get. When 

dealing with a species so different than our own, we must learn their language. If you 

are unsure about body language in cats, there are additional resources that discuss 

posturing and warning signals. Some good books that explain feline body language (and 

have excellent photos) are: What Is My Cat Thinking? By Gwen Bailey and Know Your 

Cat: An Owner’s Guide to Cat Behavior by Bruce Fogle, DVM. 

• If you have a kitty who does not give signals before aggression then you may be better 

off keeping track of time, number of pets, and preferred petting areas. These cats 

tend to be rather rare. Generally a person can learn to pick up on subtle body language 

cues and tailor the petting session accordingly. 

• Interrupt aggressive behavior at the first sign of any of these warning signals by 

withdrawing attention. You can do this by just keeping your hands still by your sides. If 

the cat is very upset you may want to walk away from the cat, or if on your lap, stand 

up slowly and let the cat gently slide off without using your hands. Pushing a cat off of 

your lap could be viewed as threatening to the cat. 

• Wait before attempting to pet again. Some cats 

only take a few minutes to settled down, others can 

take hours, even a day or two if very upset. At the 

very least give a 10 second break. Ideally, do not 

try to make contact with the cat unless s/he initiates. 

Make sure that all signals of irritation have stopped. 

If the cat is still worked up, switch to playtime with 

quiet interactive toys such as feather toys, or string. 

This can help relieve anxiety for the cat, while still 

allowing you to interact with him or her. 

• If the cat does nip or scratch during over stimulation, use verbal correction such as 

telling the cat “no” or “ouch”, or you can blow in the cat’s face lightly. Correction should 

only be enough to stop the aggressive action. It should never scare or frighten the cat 

and cause it to run away. If this happens, remember to say the correction more quietly 

next time, or to blow in the cat’s face more softly. A correction that is too harsh may 

cause the cat to become fearful of you. This can increase the frequency and intensity 



Aggression.doc


of the biting behavior. 

Do not use any physical punishment to try and correct this behavior! Nose tapping, 

spanking, or any other type of physical punishment will only make the cat more defensive – 

leading to more intense reactions and aggression. Don’t hurt your relationship with your 

cat. Build trust by understanding what your cat is trying to tell you. 

Keep in mind that behavior modification takes time! Some cats take months or even a year 

or more to show changes in their behavior. Since the cause for some types of pettinginduced 

aggression may be genetic, some cats may not respond as well to behavior 

modification. Realistic expectations are that the biting incidents will occur less frequently, 

and eventually with less intensity. Initially the incidents may occur less frequently due to 

the person being more aware of the cat’s signals that he or she is becoming irritated. 

However, by building trust and decreasing the habit of biting or swatting to stop 

interaction, you may increase your cat’s overall tolerance levels as well. But keep in mind 

that most cats will still exhibit this behavior to some degree for their entire lives. 

Cats exhibiting petting-induced aggression are best for adult 

only homes, or older children who can learn about reading body 

language. If you have young children in the home, you may need 

to monitor their interactions closely or restrict your child’s 

interactions with the cat until he or she gets older. Try to 

teach children about the best ways to pet the cat. 

If you are having trouble learning your cat’s body language, or 

the aggression seems to be very intense or getting worse, you 

may want to seek assistance from someone specializing in cat 

behavior. 

For more information about cat behavior please visit www.sfspca.org . 



Aggression.doc


INTRODUCING A CAT TO A NEW TERRITORY: 

THE IMPORTANCE OF CONFINEMENT 

When introducing any cat into a new home, there is one thing all cats need – time to adjust 

to their new space. You can make the adjustment period shorter by letting your cat get to 

know his or her new home slowly. Many adopters hesitate to confine their cats, thinking it 

is “mean”, but the nicest thing you can do for your cat is give him a “safe space” at first. 

Cats are territorial by nature, and their first priority in any situation is establishing and 

knowing their territory. Only once they are comfortable in their space can they feel 

comfortable eating, drinking, resting and eliminating. 

The safe space should be a small, quiet room (bathrooms, small offices or large walk-in 

closets are all good candidates) without any hiding spaces such as under the tub or bed, 

behind a bookshelf, etc. You don’t want to have to pull your cat out of hiding to interact 

with him – that would be getting your visit off to a very bad start. However, you can 

provide your cat with an acceptable hiding space by tipping a box on its side and putting a 

towel inside. Many cats also like cat cozies or tee-pee style beds. 

The room should be set up with a litter box on one end of the room, and the food, water 

and bedding as far away from the litter box as possible. The cat should be given some safe 

toys to play with, and should be given visits while confined to this space. Start off slow 

when visiting your kitty – don’t do too much petting or interacting until the cat has had 

some time to settle in. Sit in the room and see if the cat will approach you; if not, offer 

her your hand to sniff and try some gentle face pets. Give your cat frequent breaks and 

work up to more handling. Be patient and remember, the more love, the quicker they will 

adjust! 

Confinement is especially crucial for shy or fearful cats. Many cats are overwhelmed when 

they first move into a new place; this is normal behavior. However, for a cat that is 

fearful by nature, it is even more terrifying to be in an unfamiliar space. Given the free 

run of the house, a scared cat will often bolt around, looking for a safe place to hide. 

Many cats injure themselves running into furniture or walls in a panic. They may also hide 

somewhere unsafe (such as under the stove, inside a reclining chair), and stay in hiding for 

several days. They may forego eating, or even urinate or defecate in their hiding space. 

The “safe room” gives them a small space where they feel secure, and will also make them 

more sociable with you – the less they are worried about their territory, the more 

interested in YOU they will be! By providing your scared kitty with a cozy or box to hide 

in, you are making her feel safe in a way that also allows you to pet her while she is hiding 

(as opposed to trying to crawl under your bed to interact with her). 

Confinement page 1 of 3 updated 05/21/2009 

G:\Adoption\Adoption\Forms and Procedures\Adoption Packet Handouts\Cat Adoption Packet


Kittens also benefit from an initial confinement to a small room (or even to a large 

cage/crate. This will give you time to kitten-proof the rest of your house. When you are 

away from home, you will want to confine a smaller kitten for three reasons: it reinforces 

good litter box habits; it prevents accidents where the kitten might injure her/himself; 

and it means you don’t have to search high and low for your kitten when you return home! 

This is especially true if you have a large home. 

When moving to a new home, it is best to confine your cat to a safe room before and after 

the move. The more you can prevent him from being exposed to the chaos of lots of people 

walking around, moving all the things that are familiar to him, the better! If his is 

startled by the commotion, there is a good chance he could slip outside when doors are 

left open. Be sure that anyone helping with the move knows there is a cat in the room (a 

sign on the door will let everyone know) so they don’t accidentally open the door. Eliminate 

chances for escape when transporting your cat to his new home by putting him in a secure 

carrier while he is still in the safe room. In the new house, again give him a safe room to 

adjust to before allowing him full access of the house. 

When bringing a new cat into a home with resident kitties, the new cat should be confined 

to one room for a few days (sometimes weeks). This allows the cats to get to know each 

other by scent and accept each other’s presence without having to see each other face to 

face, which can be a very threatening experience for a cat. Please refer to our Cat to Cat 

Introduction Protocol handout for more instructions on this subject. 

You may be wondering when you can be sure that it’s okay to let your kitty out of her safe 

space. For some cats, the confinement period will be only a few hours – for others it could 

be several weeks. The important thing is that you do not rush your cat into being exposed 

to more space than she can handle. You will want to see all of the following: 

1. The cat is performing his or her natural functions: eating, resting, grooming and 

using the litter box. 

2. The cat is responsive, allowing you to pet and play with her. 

3. The cat is comfortable with you doing normal activities in the room, and is not 

afraid of you when you stand up or walk around. 

4. The cat is showing some interest in getting out of the room. 

Don’t mistake just one signal for readiness. Even a very scared cat may meow or scratch at 

the door for attention. This does not mean the cat is ready to explore more space – for 

example, if you notice that the cat meows at the door, but when you open the door, he runs 

and cowers back in his bed or box, he’s not ready. 




When possible, expand a cat’s territory slowly (especially for fearful cats). You should 

close all the doors to bedrooms and allow the cat to first explore the hallway and rooms 

that do not close off (such as the kitchen and living room). If at anytime your cat seems 

overwhelmed, return him to his safe room for a few hours and try introducing him to the 

rest of the house later. 

Don’t feel bad for confining your kitty at first. It will help him relax and adjust to his new 

surroundings much quicker. The sooner he adjusts, the sooner he will have full run of the 

house, and the sooner he will feel comfortable in his new home! 

For more information about cat behavior 

Please visit www.sfspca.org 

Want to know more? Read “Litter Did You Know”, the official Cat Behavior Blog of the San Francisco SPCA 

www.sfspcacat.blogspot.com 



WHY CATS BITE AND SCRATCH PEOPLE 

by Kate Gamble 

Whether you have a kitten or an adult cat, scratching and biting can be a 

problem unless you set firm, but gentle, consistent boundaries for the cat to learn 

and understand from the moment the cat arrives in your home. Do not let bad 

habits begin as cats learn by habit. You never need to and never should do anything 

that will hurt a cat in any way, but you can learn to teach the cat that biting and/or 

scratching people is never allowed. By being patient and giving the cat other options 

to release biting and scratching onto, you will find retraining is possible. Never hit, 

spank or use your hands for anything but petting and grooming the cat, or you will 

have a cat that is afraid of you. Also, any kind of harsh punishment will only add to 

the aggression you are trying to correct. 

Many times people teach cats to bite and scratch without even realizing it! 

The first time an owner uses his fingers or hands as a toy for the cat to bite or 

sink claws into, that person has told the cat, “It is perfectly acceptance to bite 

people”. So, if a cat learns this behavior is not only a fun thing to do, but the owner 

actually encourages the behavior, the cat will certainly continue to do it! (Wouldn’t 

you!) 

Kittens come into the world all claws and teeth it seems. The mother cat will 

always set limits with her kittens to teach them what she will tolerate and what she 

will not accept. When she has had enough she will let her kittens know in very clear 

cat language. “That’s it! No more biting, gang!” She often will let out a high-pitched 

meow that stops all misbehavior from that particular kitten. Many times kittens are 

not with their mothers long enough to learn this initial lesson and it will be up to you 

to teach the kitten. An older cat can be retrained also; the biggest asset you will 

need to train a kitten or an older cat is that ALL HOUSEHOLD MEMBERS GIVE 

THE EXACT SAME CONSISTENT MESSAGE TO THE CAT AT THE EXACT 

MOMENT IT NEEDS CORRECTION. If one person is not allowing the misbehavior 

and another person is letting the cat bite/scratch, then the cat learns that biting is 

O.K. to do some of the time. It is also frustrating for a cat to keep getting 

different messages and, again, this can add to the biting/scratching problem since 

a cat needs to release the buildup of frustration. The tension release may then be 

done on the people in the home. 

Ideas For Teaching A Cat Not To Bite/Scratch People 

Never, ever use any part of your body as a toy; using your hand or moving 

your feet under the bedcovers for kitty to attack or letting kitty bite your ankles 

as you walk should NEVER be done by an owner or anyone else. Never play roughly 

with a cat; it is stressful plus aggression provoking.

Buy lots of interactive toys with you at the other end of a toy; not you 

being the toy! Throw Ping-Pong balls against the wall or down the hall for the cat to 

chase thereby using up lots of unreleased “Kitty Energy”! Buy a sock shaped “bop 

bag” and let your cat kick it, maul it, and haul it all over the place! Toss balls up your 

indoor staircase if you have one or down the stairs. Tell your cat “Wow, Fluffy, you 

are a great hunter! What a good kitty, what a good cat”! The idea is to give Fluffy 

lots of praise for playing so she will be encouraged to continue playing but with the 

play items you have chosen for her and not parts of your body!! Be careful if you 

have more than one cat that one of the cats is not intimidated by the high energy 

of the other. (You may then have to set up individual play sessions with each cat 

behind closed doors.) 

Cats like some slow play as well as a bit of high-energy fun, but do not 

make the play all high energy. There is a great deal of slow “stalking” when a cat 

hunts prey so be sure to include slow play in your routine. Never entice a cat to play 

more when you see the kitten/cat is panting or out of breath. Let the cat rest and 

talk to it quietly until it calms down. 

Bring play sessions to a slow wind-down rather than stopping in the midst 

of play, walking away and leaving the cat frustrated. 

Try to play 10-15 minutes everyday at about the same time. 

Be careful where you pet your cat as many cats are very touchy about 

certain areas of their bodies and get uncomfortable when those areas are touched. 

Tummy areas and the area near a cat’s tail are usually not places to touch a cat who 

bites or scratches people. (Many cats get tense when these areas are touched; they 

may be purring one minute and then turn around to bite you the next! This is 

referred to as “over stimulation”.) 

Go slowly with your cat to see what sets off the biting/scratching. If the 

cat has its teeth on you, stop what you’re doing and file that “action” as a possible 

“trigger” that has activated the aggressive mode. Gently put the cat down and 

discontinue interaction for a bit. If the teeth or claws have already begun to 

penetrate your skin, yell “NO” very firmly and push your hand in toward the cat 

rather than pull your hand away from the cat. Pulling away will encourage the cat to 

dig in deeper; pushing into the cat will confuse him, as he isn’t expecting that 

behavior from you! (Do not hurt the cat when you push in toward his chest.) 

If the behavior continues and you find yourself saying “No” several times, 

simply stop all play. You might even let kitty have a “time out” in a quiet room until 

he can calm down. He will soon learn that if he repeatedly tries to bite and scratch 

that this is the room he will be put in if he continues the misbehavior.

You can emit a very high-pitched “Meowwwww!” like mother cat used to do 

to stop the behavior. Squirting a cat with plain water from a plant mister can be 

very effective in stopping behavior. Shaking an empty soda can filled with about ten 

pennies can stop a cat in many cases as cats hate noises and the can is very noisy 

when you shake it. 

The retraining message must happen at the exact moment the cat is doing 

the behavior. If you squirt the cat with water even 5 seconds after the 

misbehavior, the cat will be punished for what it is doing then, which may be sitting 

on the floor! The training has to happen at the moment the cat is misbehaving. 

Learn to trim the cat’s claws on a regular basis. Your veterinarian will be 

happy to help you with the trimming. Keep the little cat scissors specifically made 

for this purpose near you and try to clip the claws when the cat is sleepy, waking up 

from a nap or going to sleep. Remember, you do not have to do all the claws at one 

time. Do two or three claws, always praising the cat for letting you clip, and if the 

cat gets uncomfortable, stop and finish another two or three claws the next day, 

etc. 

It is imperative that you make or purchase a tall (at least three feet or 

higher) sturdy scratching outlet (a cat post or cat tree as they are referred to) for 

your cat. Any you can praise the cat for using the post. The cat can do lots of 

scratching on its own piece of furniture and not on a piece of YOU! 

Give the cat lots and lots of praise when his is being good, remember! The 

moment you see that “Hmm, I might consider biting someone tonight” look on your 

cat’s face, say “F-l-u-f-f-y, No!” to let Fluffy know you are on to her! Stop what you 

are doing as that may be the action that is getting the idea in her head. 



Want to know more? Read “Litter Did You Know”, the official Cat Behavior Blog of the San Francisco 

SPCA 

www.sfspcacat.blogspot.com


WORKING WITH FELINE PLAY AGGRESSION 

• Learn to recognize early signs of play aggression—such as dilated pupils, hiding around 

corners, and crouching. Correct the cat at the first sign of these behaviors. Sometimes a 

loud clap works to startle the cat; other cats need a stronger stimulus such as a water 

pistol, or compressed air canister. 

• Do not use any type of physical punishment (including nose-tapping or bottom-swatting). 

This only teaches the cat that you will play back roughly, and the cat will respond with 

intensified violence. 

• Any play with hands or other human body parts should be strictly avoided. This includes 

wrestling with the cat or moving your hand so the cat chases it. Whenever you play with the 

cat you must use toys. If you do not use toys, the cat will not learn to distinguish your body 

parts from items of play. 

• Play-aggressive cats need consistent handling. If the cat directs its playful behavior 

towards body parts such as hands and feet, use a verbal correction as the aggressive action 

is taking place and then stop the interaction or play session. 

• Try verbal corrections such as “no” in a deep voice, or “ouch” in a high-pitched voice. If the 

cat does not respond to verbal correction, you can try blowing lightly on her face, clapping, 

hissing, or as a last resort, gently scruffing (always supporting the cat from underneath) 

and removing the cat from you. The latter method usually requires that you withdraw from 

the cat’s company for a while, as they are liable to repeat the attack. 

• No one should let the cat get away with biting hands or any body part. You should only use 

the most minimal amount of correction needed to obtain the desired response. The point is 

to interrupt the aggressive event so the cat learns from that experience, but to not be so 

traumatic that the cat begins to fear you. If done consistently, this action will decrease 

the probability of the cat exhibiting the inappropriate behavior in the future. 

• The cat should be given appropriate outlets for play and plenty of exercise. Provide 

interactive play at least once per day, preferably 2-3 times. Good toys include cat-dancers, 

fishing pole toys or string toys. The play-session should include a “cool-down” period at the 

end where the toy is moving much slower so the cat is not left feeling more frustrated. 

• Leave toys that the cat can play with when alone, such as balls. Try to vary them daily to 

ease boredom. 

Considerations 

• Other cats may be OK, but they should have similar energy levels and temperaments. 

• You must be willing to set and stick to a regular play routine and continue with consistent 

handling and gentle correction. Without a regular outlet, the cat’s behavior will deteriorate. 

• Any type of “rough-housing” with the cat can cause its behavior to escalate into a neurotictype 

aggression and/or reinforce and intensify the play-aggressive behavior. 

• Environment considerations: This type of cat generally needs room to romp. 



updated 9/22/04

Kitten Kindergarten - San Francisco SPCA

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