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The Legend of Franck Muller - Westime

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CHAPTER I - PART II<br />

the franck muller world premiÈres<br />

1987 World Première<br />

Tourbillon with minute repeater and partially<br />

skeletonized dial exposing movement components<br />

decorated in Empire style<br />

1989 World Première<br />

Inverted tourbillon with minute repeater and<br />

perpetual calendar<br />

1990 World Première<br />

Split-seconds chronograph with tourbillon on the<br />

back <strong>of</strong> the movement<br />

1990 World Première<br />

Minute repeater with world time read <strong>of</strong>f a rotating<br />

bezel on which the principal cities <strong>of</strong> the world<br />

are marked<br />

1991 World Première<br />

Monopusher chronograph with world time<br />

and pulsometric reading on the back<br />

1992 World Première<br />

Grande and petite sonnerie, minute repeater,<br />

perpetual calendar, 24-hour moonphase indicator<br />

and indicator for the internal temperature <strong>of</strong><br />

the mechanism<br />

THE DREAM OF A BRAND<br />

<strong>Muller</strong>’s announcement <strong>of</strong> his brand came soon<br />

after he and several other watchmakers decided<br />

to revive a famous Geneva watchmaking guild.<br />

He explains, “At that time, the three independent<br />

watchmakers who were working in Geneva were<br />

me, Svend Anderson and Roger Dubuis.<br />

<strong>The</strong> three <strong>of</strong> us decided to get together and<br />

recreate the famous guild known as the<br />

Cabinotiers de Genève, which was a group<br />

that comprised various artisans needed to make<br />

a complete watch: enamelers, casemakers,<br />

dialmakers, engravers and watchmakers. Michel<br />

Parmigiani and Philippe Dufour were the two<br />

other famous watchmakers at the time; however,<br />

as they lived in Fleurier and Le Sentier respectively,<br />

they were not eligible for membership. We did,<br />

<strong>of</strong> course, grant them honorary status because<br />

<strong>of</strong> their extraordinary abilities.”<br />

But amusingly, <strong>Muller</strong>’s declaration that he<br />

would start his own brand was met with collective<br />

puzzlement: “One day, I said to the committee, ‘I<br />

am going to stop working on pocket watches.’<br />

<strong>The</strong>y asked, ‘What are you going to make then?’<br />

At that time, I saw that there were two groups <strong>of</strong><br />

watch collectors: the very traditional collectors <strong>of</strong><br />

high complications who were primarily interested<br />

in complicated pocket watches, and a new<br />

contemporary audience that was increasingly<br />

interested in wristwatches. However, this was<br />

before the era <strong>of</strong> complicated wristwatches. So I<br />

told them, ‘I would like to take the traditional<br />

Swiss high complications and bring them into the<br />

wristwatch world. I have been analyzing the<br />

market and the pocket watch that brings the<br />

highest premium is the tourbillon. So, I will create<br />

a wristwatch tourbillon.’ <strong>The</strong>y, <strong>of</strong> course, replied,<br />

‘You’re crazy. Who are you to make a watch? You<br />

are not a brand, who will buy your watch?’ You<br />

see, at that time, watchmakers were not stars —<br />

they generally worked behind the scenes.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y labored at the behest <strong>of</strong> big-name brands,<br />

as this had traditionally been the relationship<br />

for centuries. My response was naïve, but also, I<br />

like to think, realistic. I said, ‘Before<br />

Patek decided to start his company, he was<br />

just an individual.’ My point was that<br />

everyone has to begin somewhere!”<br />

<strong>Franck</strong> knew that without the communication<br />

budget <strong>of</strong> a major brand, the watch he created had<br />

to generate enormous attention. He began<br />

rethinking his ideas for it, “I was not satisfied<br />

with a simple tourbillon. I wanted the watch to<br />

have a jump-hour indication — not an analog<br />

indication, but one that used hands to remain<br />

classic-looking because at that time, the analog<br />

indication was too reminiscent <strong>of</strong> quartz. <strong>The</strong>

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