CHAPTER I - PART II more elusive goal, which was to create the world’s first tourbillon with split-seconds chronograph. Not many people realize that a chronograph is actually one <strong>of</strong> the most difficult mechanisms to create, and a split-seconds chronograph that enables the user to measure split times is even more crazy. I did not use an isolator mechanism for the split-seconds mechanism; instead, I used a big gold balance wheel with enormous inertia, so much so that the split function could be left on for up to three minutes without the balance’s amplitude being affected.” <strong>Muller</strong>’s thirst for ever- mounting complications was insatiable, and time after time, he dazzled watch enthusiasts. He recalls, “After this, I made a split-seconds chronograph tourbillon with perpetual calendar. <strong>The</strong> issue with this kind <strong>of</strong> watch is that, say, it is midnight at the end <strong>of</strong> the year — when the movement is causing all the perpetual calendar functions to instantly jump forward — and if you activate the splitseconds chronograph function, the balance wheel must continue to oscillate without a significant drop in amplitude. This was the challenge for this watch, because it is not enough to simply combine complications — you had to understand how they have a pr<strong>of</strong>ound effect on one another. This is a watch that costs 350,000 Swiss francs, so <strong>of</strong> course, it must function perfectly. In addition, at that time, I was still working on my own, making every part <strong>of</strong> the watch by hand.” THE CREATION OF A BRAND From 1984, throughout the 1990s, and well into the new millennium, <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> would dominate watchmaking, introducing new mind-blowing complicated world premieres, including the world’s most complicated wristwatch in 1992 which featured complications such as a grande and petite sonnerie, retrograde perpetual calendar, and even a thermometer. But there was one limitation to all <strong>of</strong> these watches, which was that <strong>Muller</strong> alone was responsible for each movement. He knew that if he wanted to reach a wider audience, he would have to evolve his vision. <strong>Franck</strong> tells us, “I started to receive many watch enthusiasts, but because I was working on watches in the old way, making each piece by hand and by myself, I couldn’t satisfy many <strong>of</strong> them. At the time when I was doing this, I recognized that people were excited by complicated watches again, and there was a gap in the market for accessible complications. So, based on the Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement — one <strong>of</strong> the most reliable movements around, and more importantly, one <strong>of</strong> the few available chronographs at the time — I patented the first rattrapante [split-seconds chronograph movement] that could be industrially produced. I took out the calendar mechanism, and in its place, I put in the split-seconds mechanism, which had to occupy a very small space. This became the first series <strong>of</strong> watches I produced on an industrial level. Later, there would be 17 brands that would end up using this patent. I ended up licensing this mechanism to these brands, and today, there are still brands that use it. People kept asking me to make this movement for them, but I told them, ‘No, I have to focus on my own work.’ But the more I thought about it, the more I thought I would like to communicate my particular perception <strong>of</strong> high watchmaking to a wider audience.” At this point, <strong>Franck</strong> met the individual who would allow him to realize his dream. He explains, “It was at this time that my associate Vartan Sirmakes arrived with the idea to transform my vision for watchmaking into an international brand with a pr<strong>of</strong>ound global presence. He was, at that time, a casemaker fabricating some <strong>of</strong> the most complex cases in the industry, such as the Daniel Roth ellipse-shaped model. At first, he sent others, then finally, he came himself. I remember that he came to my garden in the month <strong>of</strong> August. He said, ‘Look, I make some <strong>of</strong> the most complicated cases in the world. Together, we can create a brand.’ I thought about it. At that time, I made movements, but I would buy the cases from a friend, because my production was so small — it was only three or four cases per year. This was an excellent supplier who, at that time, also made cases for Patek Philippe and Blancpain. But because it was such a small production, I was a low priority. So I replied, ‘Why don’t you keep your case business and I will keep my grande complication business, but at the same time, we can create an association to produce watches in series that correspond to what I feel the world needs in terms <strong>of</strong> horology? Something with exquisite movements, something that reintroduces traditional Swiss high watchmaking, but with a fresh, contemporary perspective.’ You see, I was already thinking that for the Swiss industry to come back, we had to do it in a way that made our traditions relevant to an all-new generation.” Says <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>of</strong> his vision for his brand, “I was always mindful to retain complete creative control over every timepiece. Every <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> watch is born out <strong>of</strong> pleasure and never as a commercial necessity. Every timepiece we’ve made has tried to bring something new and innovative to horology, to help in the evolution <strong>of</strong> its continuous story. By 1992 we were showing our watches at the SIHH. We were incredibly successful, particularly in Italy. I had already developed a following there because in those days, the center <strong>of</strong> watch collecting was based in Italy. Everyone considered this market as the most sophisticated in the world — it was the first to produce beautiful watch magazines and it was the home to some <strong>of</strong> the world’s most important collectors. Perhaps it was the Latin flair <strong>of</strong> the nation combined with their deep roots in science and culture, but they were the first to completely embrace my vision <strong>of</strong> combining true authentic high watchmaking with a certain contemporary spirit. Many <strong>of</strong> the unique pieces I created ended up being worn by famous Italian industrialists. <strong>The</strong>y did not want to show up at a board meeting and see someone else wearing the same watch on their wrist. From there, the brand began to take <strong>of</strong>f. Some early adopters including Gianni Versace, and later, Elton John, which helped the brand become well known in the United States; others like Jackie Chan helped make <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> a recognized brand internationally. However, I’ve always had one objective in mind, which is to ensure that our watches are emotionally impactful — that they delight their owners while representing the finest quality in the Swiss industry.” One major boon to <strong>Franck</strong>’s obsession with quality has been Watchland’s extraordinary manufacturing depth. It is the only brand that manufactures 100 percent <strong>of</strong> its own cases and dials. Every movement is fabricated and assembled on premises in Genthod, and subjected to the strictest levels <strong>of</strong> quality control and internal testing; only in this way would they resonate as true <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> timepieces.
FRANCK MULLER CINTRÉE CURVEX TOURBILLON <strong>The</strong> <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> Cintrée Curvex Tourbillon features a flying tourbillon displayed through a beautiful sunburst guilloché dial
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