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The Tarkine: Too Precious To Lose

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THE TARKINE


From Senator<br />

Christine Milne<br />

2 — 3<br />

I dream of restoring a virtual Gondwanaland through a network of protected<br />

places. My time as Global Vice President of the International Union of the<br />

Conservation of Nature gave me the confidence to know this dream is possible.<br />

During the 2004 World Parks Congress in Durban I ventured to the wild coast<br />

of South Africa and felt immediately at home amongst what seemed familiar<br />

vegetation, in spite of never having been there before. Similarly, in South<br />

America and New Caledonia that same sense of belonging and instinctive<br />

knowing seeped into my being. Imagine the fantastic opportunity we now have<br />

to study the evolutionary processes from a common origin of place and species<br />

and to celebrate both similarity and difference.<br />

It is not beyond us in 2014. Technology makes it possible to demonstrate the<br />

links between these landscapes. But it won’t happen unless we have a shared<br />

vision and the political and community will to protect and nurture what<br />

remains.<br />

Tasmania is “my blood’s country”. i This beautiful, wild, remote island on the<br />

edge of the world, is globally recognised with a World Heritage listing for its<br />

wilderness, its tall forests and its Aboriginal cultural heritage.<br />

But it is the <strong>Tarkine</strong>, the wild and beautiful north-west of Australia’s island<br />

state, that links my home to places as near as Western Australia and as far flung<br />

as Argentina, Chile, New Zealand, New Caledonia, South Africa, Madagascar,<br />

the Arabian Peninsula and India. We share the inspiring, life affirming<br />

evolutionary story of Gondwanaland.<br />

I was born in north-west Tasmania and grew up there. <strong>The</strong> cleanest air in the<br />

world was what I breathed, and the small towns along the coast, dotted between<br />

rich patchworks of farmland, forests and mountains, was my life’s experience. It<br />

wasn’t until I began travelling overseas that I realised my landscape connected<br />

me with so much of our shared humanity.<br />

We must save the <strong>Tarkine</strong> and make it a national park. It is the missing link<br />

in restoring Gondwanaland. Most of the other outstanding examples of<br />

Gondwanan heritage are already protected; we need to place the <strong>Tarkine</strong> into<br />

that global story.<br />

Of itself it is a place of exquisite beauty, of magnificent karst systems, of aweinspiring<br />

myrtle beech forest, of wild coast. It is home to the world’s largest<br />

carnivorous marsupial, the Tasmanian devil. Its skies are home to the soaring<br />

wedge-tailed eagle. Its forest floors are decorated with fungi found in few other<br />

places in the world. It is rich in cultural heritage and continued significance for<br />

Tasmania’s first people; on its coast you can find their middens and rock art. It<br />

stands alone as an example of nature’s wonder but as part of a bigger story, as<br />

the last piece in the global restoration of Gondwanaland, it is compelling.<br />

I will not rest until the <strong>Tarkine</strong> is protected. So little of the natural world<br />

remains intact. <strong>The</strong> ravages of habitat loss, inappropriate development, invasive<br />

species and the overriding impact of climate change make the task urgent and<br />

overwhelming.<br />

Now is the time. Please help us to protect the <strong>Tarkine</strong> as a national park and<br />

let’s celebrate our common humanity and restore a virtual Gondwanaland.<br />

Photo above: Senator Christine Milne in the <strong>Tarkine</strong>, Rob Blakers;<br />

Opposite: Giant Myrtles, Mt Lindsay Minesite, Rob Blakers.


<strong>The</strong> <strong>Tarkine</strong> region is a vast, complex mosaic of ecosystems<br />

covering nearly 500,000 hectares, with a heart of cool temperate<br />

rainforest that has its origins in the great supercontinent of<br />

Gondwanaland.<br />

A last wild place<br />

This ancient rainforest core is threaded with tannin-stained<br />

rivers, wet gullies and unique karst systems; and surrounded<br />

by mixed forests, expansive buttongrass plains and flowering<br />

coastal heaths. A rugged coast of sweeping beaches, dotted with<br />

towering sand dunes and extraordinary Aboriginal archaeological<br />

remains forms its western boundary.<br />

Such is the immensity and diversity of the <strong>Tarkine</strong> that it often<br />

defies description, but there is little doubt about its impact on<br />

those who experience it.<br />

It is home to more than 60 rare and threatened species; and<br />

a global hotspot for endemic plants, invertebrates, reptiles,<br />

amphibians, birds and mammals. It contains 2000-year-old trees<br />

and other species that have not changed for tens of millions of<br />

years. Its fungi and lichen species are so extraordinarily diverse<br />

that scientists estimate it will take decades to completely<br />

describe them.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Tarkine</strong> is one of the world’s last great wild places. While<br />

not a wilderness in the sense of being uninhabited, its expansive<br />

vistas of uninterrupted rainforest and open plains, coupled with<br />

its remoteness and grandeur, speak to our universal longing to<br />

experience wild places free of modern human impacts.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Tarkine</strong>’s temperate rainforest, in particular, is a wellspring<br />

of spiritual inspiration, universally recognised for its beauty and<br />

link to the ancient supercontinent of Gondwanaland.<br />

As Distinguished Professor Jamie Kirkpatrick writes, “the forests<br />

[of the <strong>Tarkine</strong>] have a harmony, complexity, detail and lushness<br />

[that is] irresistible … and emotionally overwhelming”. ii<br />

When you walk in these forests you are transported to a world<br />

that once was, and yet also still endures.<br />

Photos clockwise from top left: <strong>Tarkine</strong>, Dan Broun; Mt Lindsay, Dan Broun; Mt Lindsay, Dan Broun.


Photo: <strong>Tarkine</strong>, Dan Broun.<br />

Such is the immensity and diversity of the<br />

<strong>Tarkine</strong> that it often defies description,<br />

but there is little doubt about its impact<br />

on those who experience it.


Living Gondwanan link<br />

Photo: <strong>Tarkine</strong>, Luke O’Brien.<br />

While tropical rainforests have received<br />

much conservation attention in recent years,<br />

temperate ecosystems that have borne the brunt<br />

of human development in recent centuries are<br />

not only severely cleared and degraded but also<br />

poorly reserved and protected.<br />

<strong>The</strong> heart of the <strong>Tarkine</strong> is a stronghold of<br />

primal, cool temperate rainforest spanning<br />

nearly 200,000 hectares. It is the largest tract<br />

of intact temperate rainforest in the southern<br />

hemisphere and the second largest in the world.<br />

This ancient ecosystem, remarkable for its<br />

evolutionary resilience over more than 100<br />

million years, is characterised by species that are<br />

the living remnants of the great forests of the<br />

southern supercontinent of Gondwanaland.<br />

<strong>To</strong>wering myrtle beech trees, from the iconic<br />

Gondwanan Nothofagus genus, create a<br />

cathedral-like callidendrous rainforest. Other<br />

signature Gondwanan species include tree ferns<br />

that evoke the age of the dinosaurs, Tasmanian<br />

leatherwoods iii , famous for their honey, and<br />

speciality timber species including sassafras,<br />

huon pine, celery-top pine and king billy pine iv<br />

are relatively abundant through the <strong>Tarkine</strong><br />

rainforest lower canopy and understory.<br />

<strong>The</strong> similarity of the <strong>Tarkine</strong> rainforest to other<br />

Gondwanan forest remnants on the Australian<br />

mainland, in New Zealand, South America,<br />

New Guinea, New Caledonia and the fossil<br />

record of Antarctica, provide a powerful living<br />

illustration of continental drift and its influence<br />

on species distribution.<br />

In their overview of the global significance<br />

of the temperate rainforests of Australasia,<br />

Kirkpatrick and DellaSala note the presence<br />

of unusually large flora and fauna species in the<br />

<strong>Tarkine</strong>, invoking the stature and grandeur of<br />

Gondwanaland’s original ecosystems. v<br />

Giant tree ferns form part of the understory,<br />

and in places the world’s largest flowering<br />

plant in the world, mountain ash, soar up to<br />

100 metres. vi <strong>The</strong> Tasmanian sub-species of<br />

the wedge-tailed eagle, vii considerably larger<br />

than its mainland Australian cousin, is an apex<br />

predator, along with the world’s largest extant<br />

carnivorous marsupial, the Tasmanian devil. viii<br />

<strong>The</strong> Tasmanian giant freshwater lobster, ix the<br />

world’s largest freshwater invertebrate, inhabits<br />

the <strong>Tarkine</strong>’s streams. x<br />

<strong>The</strong> rich fossil deposits in the <strong>Tarkine</strong> provide<br />

an invaluable opportunity to trace the history<br />

and evolution of the forests, and the processes<br />

that shaped them, and also record a diversity of<br />

species now lost.


<strong>Tarkine</strong>’s first people<br />

6<br />

— 7<br />

<strong>The</strong> connection of Tasmania’s Aboriginal<br />

people to the <strong>Tarkine</strong> is reflected in its name.<br />

<strong>The</strong> region is named for the <strong>Tarkine</strong>ner clan,<br />

who along with the Peerapper, Manegin, and<br />

Peternidic clans lived in north-west Tasmania<br />

for thousands of years before the arrival of<br />

Europeans.<br />

Photo: <strong>Tarkine</strong>, Dan Broun<br />

<strong>The</strong> known archaeological record of the<br />

<strong>Tarkine</strong>, mainly along the wild west coast,<br />

is incredibly rich, and has been described<br />

as “one of the world’s great archaeological<br />

regions”. xi Seal hunting, hut depressions, large<br />

shell middens, artefact scatters, petroglyphs<br />

and quarries for stone tools and ceremonial<br />

ochre are well-documented, and all speak<br />

of the Tasmanian Aboriginal people’s deep<br />

cultural connection with the land and sea.<br />

Other evidence points to a strong interest<br />

in astronomy, the active trade of quarried<br />

materials and valuables across the island, and a<br />

deep spiritual life.<br />

For the Tasmanian Aboriginal people, the<br />

<strong>Tarkine</strong> is not a wilderness or a museum, but<br />

a landscape shaped by their ancestors over<br />

thousands of years and a living connection<br />

between past and present. <strong>The</strong> rich cultural<br />

heritage of the <strong>Tarkine</strong> offers a unique<br />

opportunity to showcase an extraordinary and<br />

sophisticated culture that has lasted tens of<br />

thousands of years. <strong>The</strong> enduring connection of<br />

the Tasmanian Aboriginal people to the region<br />

is an opportunity for shared collaboration in the<br />

<strong>Tarkine</strong>’s future management.


Photo: Mt Livingstone and the Meredith Range, Rob Blakers.


North-west and<br />

West Tasmania<br />

<strong>The</strong> communities in north-west and west Tasmania are in large<br />

part defined by their historic and ongoing interactions with<br />

the <strong>Tarkine</strong>. European colonists described both their efforts to<br />

conquer a region they viewed as inhospitable and their awe at its<br />

natural beauty and grandeur.<br />

Extraction of the <strong>Tarkine</strong>’s natural resources began in the 19th<br />

century and has remained an enduring focus of the regional<br />

economy, principally consisting of logging, pastoralism and<br />

mining. Governments have largely supported these activities as<br />

the principal source of local income and jobs, a view not always<br />

in accord with the local community and emerging opportunities.<br />

In fact, the combination of wresting a livelihood from a land<br />

remote from government attention while appreciating the<br />

<strong>Tarkine</strong>’s spectacular natural landscapes has forged a unique<br />

community character. Local historian CJ Binks wrote:<br />

<strong>The</strong>re was a recognition from the beginning that west coasters were<br />

a people apart, who had to fight for whatever they needed in a world<br />

which tended very easily to forget their existence. <strong>The</strong>y joined battle<br />

with unresponsive governments just as persistently as they battled<br />

against an unresponsive country to establish a place for themselves<br />

and carve an industry and society out of a wilderness. From this<br />

fight they emerged with a strong political and social identity. xii<br />

From the earliest days Europeans mimicked the local Aboriginal<br />

population’s reliance on the <strong>Tarkine</strong>’s abundant wild foods.<br />

A love of the region’s seafood, bush meat and leatherwood honey<br />

is an integral part of the local culture.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Tarkine</strong> has also remained a source of local spiritual and<br />

artistic inspiration and recreation for residents and visitors alike.<br />

<strong>The</strong> long-established practice of using basic coastal shacks for<br />

recreational fishing and holidaying continues today. Four wheeldriving,<br />

hiking, freshwater fishing and surfing the spectacularly<br />

rough coastal seas are beloved traditions that celebrate the<br />

wildness and connection between the <strong>Tarkine</strong> and its community.<br />

8 — 9<br />

Photos from top: <strong>Tarkine</strong>, Luke O’Brien; <strong>Tarkine</strong> Coast, Rob Blakers.


Globally recognised<br />

significance<br />

<strong>The</strong> combination of vast tracts of<br />

intact temperate rainforest and other<br />

ecosystems; evidence of ecological and<br />

evolutionary processes; Aboriginal<br />

archaeological remains and heritage;<br />

and rare biodiversity and geodiversity<br />

have seen the <strong>Tarkine</strong> repeatedly<br />

recognised as a region of outstanding<br />

national and global significance.<br />

Efforts to have part of the <strong>Tarkine</strong><br />

conserved in a national park began in<br />

the 1960s. Since 1989, the International<br />

Union for the Conservation of Nature<br />

has recommended that the <strong>Tarkine</strong> be<br />

nominated for World Heritage listing,<br />

to be added to the existing Tasmanian<br />

Wilderness World Heritage Area. xiii<br />

<strong>The</strong> region was nominated for<br />

inclusion on Australia’s National<br />

Heritage List in 2004, and in 2010<br />

the Australian Heritage Council<br />

concluded that 433,000 hectares met<br />

the criteria. However the federal<br />

and state governments rejected the<br />

recommendation, and instead in 2012<br />

the Australian Government listed<br />

a strip of the <strong>Tarkine</strong>’s coast on the<br />

National Heritage List in recognition<br />

of its outstanding Aboriginal<br />

archaeological values. <strong>The</strong> rest remains<br />

largely unprotected from logging and<br />

mining<br />

In the same year, an expert heritage<br />

verification of several Tasmanian<br />

regions found, “the <strong>Tarkine</strong> emerged as<br />

an area of outstanding heritage value of<br />

World Heritage significance”. xiv<br />

Conservationists, scientists and<br />

the broader community are still<br />

campaigning for the protection of<br />

the <strong>Tarkine</strong> as a national park. It is<br />

extraordinary that the <strong>Tarkine</strong> has<br />

survived intact to this day, and presents<br />

a remarkable opportunity to create a<br />

protected area of national and<br />

global value.<br />

Photos from top: White-fronted chat, Dan Broun; Mt Lindsay buttongrass, Dan Broun.


Photo: <strong>Tarkine</strong> dunes, Rob Blakers.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Tarkine</strong> is universally recognised<br />

for its beauty and link to the ancient<br />

supercontinent of Gondwanaland.


12 — 13<br />

Choice and opportunity<br />

<strong>To</strong>day, the north-west Tasmanian economy<br />

is in a state of profound transformation.<br />

<strong>The</strong> collapse of the woodchipping industry,<br />

transience of local mining operations and<br />

persistently poor returns for farmers producing<br />

bulk commodities, are sparking a new wave of<br />

innovation and resilience.<br />

<strong>The</strong> north-west’s prime agricultural land is<br />

being repurposed towards production of high<br />

quality, low-volume produce with associated<br />

fine dining experiences. <strong>The</strong>re is increased<br />

marketing of and a premium placed on wild<br />

foods strongly associated with the <strong>Tarkine</strong>,<br />

including seafood and leatherwood honey. New<br />

wine, beer and whisky producers are beginning<br />

to thrive, and the region is experiencing<br />

increased tourism numbers as a result of<br />

marketing which boasts “the cleanest air in the<br />

world” and authentic wilderness experiences.<br />

<strong>The</strong> potential in showcasing the heritage of the<br />

Tasmanian Aboriginal community, one<br />

of the oldest continuous cultures in the world,<br />

remains largely unrealised.<br />

Protection and promotion of the <strong>Tarkine</strong> as a<br />

national park could provide jobs in a sustainable<br />

and prosperous tourism sector, and help<br />

underpin the growing premium Tasmanian<br />

food and beverage brand. Creation of a <strong>Tarkine</strong><br />

National Park is the key to realising this positive<br />

transformation of the north-west Tasmanian<br />

economy.<br />

Photo: Wolfgang Glowacki.


References<br />

i<br />

J Wright, 2007, “South of My Days”, <strong>The</strong> Poetry of Judith Wright.<br />

ii<br />

J Kirkpatrick, 2012, “<strong>Tarkine</strong> a question of values: mines versus<br />

ancient rainforest”, <strong>The</strong> Conversation, viewed 24 October 2014<br />

.<br />

iii<br />

Eucryphia lucida.<br />

iv<br />

v<br />

Atherosperma moschatum, Lagarostrobos franklinii, Phyllocladus<br />

asplenifolius and Athrotaxis selaginoide respectively.<br />

J Kirkpatrick & DA DellaSala, Temperate rainforests of<br />

Australasia, Temperate and boreal rainforests of the world: ecology<br />

and conservation, Island Press, Washington DC, 2011, pp 195--212.<br />

vi<br />

vii<br />

Eucalyptus regnans.<br />

Aquila audax fleayi.<br />

viii<br />

Sarcophilus harrisii.<br />

ix<br />

Astacopsis gouldi.<br />

x<br />

J Kirkpatrick & DA DellaSala, op.cit.<br />

xi<br />

T Richards & P Sutherland-Richards, “Archaeology”, in DN<br />

Harries (ed), Forgotten Wilderness: North-West Tasmania, A report<br />

to the Australian Heritage Commission, Tasmanian Conservation<br />

Trust, Hobart, 1992.<br />

xii<br />

CJ Binks, Explorers of Western Tasmania, Launceston, 1989.<br />

xiii<br />

G Mosely, 2013, “Australia’s world heritage nominations:<br />

what are our missing icons and what can be done to resume<br />

progress?”, Keeping the outstanding exceptional: the future of<br />

World Heritage in Australia, Australian Committee of the IUCN,<br />

viewed 24 October 2014 http://aciucn.org.au/wp-content/<br />

uploads/2013/08/35_Mosley2.pdf .<br />

xiv<br />

P Hitchcock, An assessment and verification of the ‘National and<br />

World Heritage Values and significance of Tasmania’s native forest<br />

estate with particular reference to the area of Tasmanian forest<br />

identified by ENGOs as being of High Conservation Value’, Report<br />

to the Independent Verification Group for the Tasmanian<br />

Forests Intergovernmental Agreement 2011, Canberra, 2012.<br />

This publication would not have been possible without<br />

the generous donation of work from the following<br />

photographers: Rob Blakers, Dan Broun,<br />

Wolfgang Glowacki and Luke O’Brien.<br />

Photos clockwise from top: Mt Lindsay, <strong>Tarkine</strong>, Mt Lindsay, Astacopsis gouldii giant freshwater lobster, Dan Broun.<br />

Photo opposite: Norfolk Range, Rob Blakers.<br />

Printed by Tuggeranong Officeworks, 215 Scollay St, Greenway ACT 2900.<br />

Authorised by C. Milne, L1 Murray St Pier, Hobart TAS 7000.


Find out more about the <strong>Tarkine</strong> at<br />

http://christine-milne.greensmps.org.au/tarkine<br />

Contact Senator Christine Milne<br />

facebook.com/Senator.Christine.Milne | twitter @senatormilne<br />

E. Senator.Milne@aph.gov.au | A. L1 Murray St Pier, Hobart, TAS<br />

T. +613 6224 8899<br />

Cover photos: Front - Mt Livingstone and the Meredith Range, Rob Blakers; Back - Ventura Falls, Mt Lindsay Minesite, Rob Blakers.

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