Paddling Antarctica Be prepared! Speights Coast ... - Canoe & Kayak

Sea Kayaking
Kayaking in the Antarctic By Ron Chandler
14 Kayakers paddle in freezing conditions around Marguerite Bay
Marguerite Bay has some of the most pristine scenery in the Antarctic
Peninsula and opportunities to spot wildlife such as the emperor penguin and
elusive Ross seal.
In December 2008 100 passengers, of which 14 were kayakers,
were aboard the ‘Academic Sergy Vavilov’, a 6500 tonne
Russian survey ship sailing from Ushuaia to the Antarctic.
Three days at 12 knots through the sheltered waters of the Beagle
Channel and the notoriously rough Drake Passage got us to Marguerite
Bay well within the Antartctic Circle. The ship’s
strengthened hull and powerful stern drive
system made her ideally suited to enter small
bays and manoeuvre through narrow channels.
Accessing our kayaks via an inflatable
Zodiac proved steadier, much safer and
quicker than using the ship’s gangplank
or the beach. We paddled on six occasions for a total of 15 hours
in air and sea temperatures of minus 2 degrees. We were quite
comfortable wearing three layers of polyprop under a dry suit.
Amidst amazing scenery and wildlife we paddled around icebergs,
each spectacular in itself; many unbelievably blue. We saw Adelie,
Chinstrap and Gentoo Penguins, Whales, Seals, Albatross, Terns,
Skuas, and Gulls. The silence was often broken by the sound of
cracking ice and the roar of an occasional distant avalanche. In
a calm bay, sitting still, eyes closed, the sounds were dramatic.
On our last day, attempting an Eskimo roll and eager to get my head above
icy water my spray skirt came off. I had
an impromptu dip in the Antarctic Ocean!
Strictly governed by the 1959 Antarctic
Treaty our activities included visiting
penguin colonies, abandoned research
centres and an old whaling station
linked to the South Shetland Islands.
An albatross soaring close to the ship,
or a penguin approaching within a metre, are wonderful experiences, but
observing this magnificent Continent from a kayak adds a whole new
dimension.
Attempting an Eskimo roll and eager to
get my head above icy water my spray
skirt came off. I had an impromptu
dip in the Antarctic Ocean!
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