FINE WINE - The Wine Society

ALSACE ROYALTY
THE JUBILEE WINES OF HUGEL
The family firm of Hugel has been making wine in Riquewihr in Alsace since
1639. The late Johnny Hugel was one of the most influential winemakers in
Alsace, not only championing the cause at home and abroad but also helping
to formulate production laws. It was he who created the appellation vendange
tardive for wine made from the ripest grapes in time for the extraordinary 1976
vintage. Marc Hugel, Johnny’s nephew, is the winemaker today. The Jubilee
range of wines denotes high quality and was started in 1989 when Hugel
celebrated their 350th anniversary. Jubilee wines are only made in good or
great vintages and from grapes from family-owned vineyards in and around
Riquewihr, including grands crus Sporen and Schoenenbourg.
The two limited-edition cases below celebrate both the Queen’s Diamond
Jubilee, and The Society’s long and fruitful relationship with Hugel. The riesling
and gewurztraminer are drawn from The Society’s archives, while the pinot noir
case was packed at the property in a wooden box. Please note that these wines
are available only as part of the mixed case.
Hugel Jubilee Riesling &
Gewurztraminer Vertical
Mixed Case
Now to 2020
Ref J-MX12574 at £134
A six-bottle case containing one bottle of each of the following:
Riesling Jubilee, Hugel, 2007
Hugel’s flagship riesling comes from the grand cru Schoenenbourg
vineyard, overlooking Riquewihr. No late-harvest riesling was produced in
2007, so the dry Jubilee benefited from the very best of the grapes.
A splendid effort, worth keeping a little longer. Now to 2023. 13%
This wine is also available in magnums – Please telephone for availability
Riesling Jubilee, Hugel, 2008
Drier and more austere than the 2007, this needs a little longer to come
round, but the characteristic charm and finesse are already there to see.
Now to 2023. 12%
Riesling Jubilee, Hugel, 2009
Fine, beautifully poised riesling which will benefit from another year or
so in bottle and will keep well for another decade. 13.5%
Gewurztraminer Jubilee, Hugel, 2007
Though not stated on the label, Jubilee gewurztraminer always comes
from Hugel’s own holdings at the heart of grand cru Sporen. Classy, and
still a little reserved, so be patient. Now to 2022. 14%
Gewurztraminer Jubilee, Hugel, 2008
Sporen typically yields drier, more backward wines than other grands
crus. This is the last word in finesse. Now to 2020. 14%
Gewurztraminer Jubilee, Hugel, 2009
In the dry 2009 vintage, grand cru vineyards like Sporen showed their
true worth. Outstanding. 2013 to 2024. 14%
Hugel Jubilee
Pinot Noir
Vertical Case
Now to 2015
Pinot noir has always been planted in Alsace but
historically this grape rarely made wines with
any substance except in the greatest vintages.
With lower yields, better husbandry and better
placed vineyards, pinot can reveal itself to be
something exceptional and as rewarding as the
other top grape varieties. There is even talk to
award grand cru status
to some of these top reds.
ref J-MX12572 at £110
A six-bottle wooden case containing two bottles
of each of the following:
Pinot Noir Jubilee, Hugel, 2007
With lovely sensations of ripe, sweet cherries,
and the refinement of a sensibly-judged barrel,
this is round and long. Now to 2015. 13.5%
Pinot Noir Jubilee, Hugel, 2008
A classic vintage. A bright garnet with a
fragrant nose of strawberry and bitter cherry.
It is elegant and long with the accent on the
fruit. Lovely now and over the next three years.
12.5%
Pinot Noir Jubilee, Hugel, 2009
From Hugel’s own vines in Riquewihr, and a
truly great vintage for Alsace pinot noir, this
is ample, rich and full. Quite outstanding.
Now to 2018. 14%
For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or ☎ 01438 741177
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