FINE WINE - The Wine Society
FINE WINE - The Wine Society
FINE WINE - The Wine Society
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LUIS PATO<br />
BAIRRADA IN ALL BUT NAME<br />
Pato means ‘duck’ in Portuguese, and, appropriately, ducks adorn<br />
the labels of this irreverent producer of some of Portugal’s most<br />
individual and sought-after wines. <strong>The</strong>se are Bairrada in all but<br />
name, Luis Pato having fought the local establishment’s rules for<br />
greater winemaking freedom, only to return to Bairrada’s roots<br />
with pure baga wines of excellent poise and potential. Here we<br />
feature two single-vineyard wines from the outstanding 2005<br />
vintage, which Luis himself believes to be at least a match for the<br />
wonderful 2001. Produced since 1995 (still very much alive and<br />
kicking when tasted in the autumn of 2011), these are two<br />
elegant expressions of the baga grape. With maturity, Barrosa<br />
typically has more in common with Burgundy, while Pan is<br />
tantalisingly nebbiolo-like. To have either in a larger format (the<br />
Jeroboams are signed by the man himself) – shipped direct from<br />
Luis Pato’s own cellar – would be a treat worth waiting for.<br />
J-PW1661 Vinha Barrosa, Vinha Velha, Beiras, 2005 (Luis Pato) £30 bottle £360 dozen<br />
Vinha Barrosa is the best known of Luis Pato’s single-vineyard wines, and highly<br />
sought-after in Portugal. Made 100% from Bairrada’s traditional grape, baga, from<br />
a combination of 80-year-old vines grown with a high proportion of clay (barro) and<br />
some younger vines. Enormous potential. Gorgeous sweet blackberry and fruit cake<br />
nose with a hint of silkiness on the palate. Now to 2020. 13%<br />
J-PW3203 Jeroboam of Vinha Barrosa, Beiras, 2005 (Luis Pato) £135 per Jeroboam<br />
J-PW3151 Vinha Pan, Beiras, 2005 (Luis Pato) £30 bottle £360 dozen<br />
Vinha Pan is a vineyard which came to Luis Pato via his wife’s family. Currently showing<br />
more maturity than the Barrosa, this is a fascinating combination of Burgundian<br />
elegance and north Italian fragrance and structure, but without baga’s typically<br />
agressive tannin. Now to 2025. 13%<br />
J-PW3154 Magnum of Vinha Pan, Beiras, 2005 (Luis Pato) £65 per magnum £390 per six<br />
J-PW3153 Jeroboam of Vinha Pan, Beiras, 2005 (Luis Pato) £135 per Jeroboam<br />
For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or ☎ 01438 741177<br />
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