25.11.2014 Views

FINE WINE - The Wine Society

FINE WINE - The Wine Society

FINE WINE - The Wine Society

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

LUIS PATO<br />

BAIRRADA IN ALL BUT NAME<br />

Pato means ‘duck’ in Portuguese, and, appropriately, ducks adorn<br />

the labels of this irreverent producer of some of Portugal’s most<br />

individual and sought-after wines. <strong>The</strong>se are Bairrada in all but<br />

name, Luis Pato having fought the local establishment’s rules for<br />

greater winemaking freedom, only to return to Bairrada’s roots<br />

with pure baga wines of excellent poise and potential. Here we<br />

feature two single-vineyard wines from the outstanding 2005<br />

vintage, which Luis himself believes to be at least a match for the<br />

wonderful 2001. Produced since 1995 (still very much alive and<br />

kicking when tasted in the autumn of 2011), these are two<br />

elegant expressions of the baga grape. With maturity, Barrosa<br />

typically has more in common with Burgundy, while Pan is<br />

tantalisingly nebbiolo-like. To have either in a larger format (the<br />

Jeroboams are signed by the man himself) – shipped direct from<br />

Luis Pato’s own cellar – would be a treat worth waiting for.<br />

J-PW1661 Vinha Barrosa, Vinha Velha, Beiras, 2005 (Luis Pato) £30 bottle £360 dozen<br />

Vinha Barrosa is the best known of Luis Pato’s single-vineyard wines, and highly<br />

sought-after in Portugal. Made 100% from Bairrada’s traditional grape, baga, from<br />

a combination of 80-year-old vines grown with a high proportion of clay (barro) and<br />

some younger vines. Enormous potential. Gorgeous sweet blackberry and fruit cake<br />

nose with a hint of silkiness on the palate. Now to 2020. 13%<br />

J-PW3203 Jeroboam of Vinha Barrosa, Beiras, 2005 (Luis Pato) £135 per Jeroboam<br />

J-PW3151 Vinha Pan, Beiras, 2005 (Luis Pato) £30 bottle £360 dozen<br />

Vinha Pan is a vineyard which came to Luis Pato via his wife’s family. Currently showing<br />

more maturity than the Barrosa, this is a fascinating combination of Burgundian<br />

elegance and north Italian fragrance and structure, but without baga’s typically<br />

agressive tannin. Now to 2025. 13%<br />

J-PW3154 Magnum of Vinha Pan, Beiras, 2005 (Luis Pato) £65 per magnum £390 per six<br />

J-PW3153 Jeroboam of Vinha Pan, Beiras, 2005 (Luis Pato) £135 per Jeroboam<br />

For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or ☎ 01438 741177<br />

5

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!