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Kingsville Boxwood Care Sheet

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is not the matted fibrous roots of potted azaleas or<br />

junipers, but has similar characteristics if it becomes<br />

root bound. It can also be repotted in the<br />

summer or fall if needed and you live in the South,<br />

though you would want to avoid repotting during<br />

the hottest months. When repotting during other<br />

times of the year, try not to cut roots. <strong>Boxwood</strong><br />

prefers well-drained soil mixes and will tolerate<br />

slightly alkaline soil. Use basic low acid bonsai soil<br />

and add an occasional dose of lime to the soil for<br />

optimal health. Add fertilizer and iron to the soil<br />

when repotting. Although not mandatory, <strong>Kingsville</strong>s<br />

like a deeper pot.<br />

Design and Styling: The plant does well in many<br />

bonsai styles and is ideal for shohin, mame and<br />

landscape plantings.<br />

<strong>Kingsville</strong><br />

<strong>Boxwood</strong> <strong>Care</strong><br />

<strong>Sheet</strong><br />

Brought to you by<br />

S & S Bonsai of Colorado Springs, Colorado<br />

(Most of the included information is obtained from several<br />

online sources.)<br />

“Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if<br />

you were to live forever.”<br />

—Mahatma Gandhi—


The <strong>Kingsville</strong> <strong>Boxwood</strong><br />

(Buxus microphylla x. compacta var. kingsville )<br />

General Information: <strong>Kingsville</strong> <strong>Boxwood</strong>s take<br />

their name from the nursery where it was discovered<br />

in Maryland in 1912. However it was not released<br />

to the public until 1937. This is interesting<br />

since most bonsai websites called it Japanese<br />

<strong>Kingsville</strong> <strong>Boxwood</strong> and it originated here in the<br />

USA. Seems that sellers feel that we need to think<br />

that all our bonsai originate in Japan. In all fairness,<br />

boxwood were introduced to the United States in<br />

1652 and were a favorite from Maryland to North<br />

Carolina. There are about 115 cultivars available<br />

today.<br />

<strong>Kingsville</strong> <strong>Boxwood</strong> belongs to the genus Buxus of<br />

the Buxacae family. This family is widely varied to<br />

include both Pachysandra of ground cover fame as<br />

well as the common boxwoods. <strong>Boxwood</strong>s are evergreen<br />

trees and shrubs with opposite, shortstalked,<br />

undivided leathery leaves. The plant is very<br />

slow growing. The flowers are petal-less. The fruits<br />

are three lobed and when ripe, they explode on<br />

contact. The hardiest boxwoods are the Buxus microphylla,<br />

which includes the <strong>Kingsville</strong> variety. The<br />

wood is very fine grained and durable. The leaves<br />

are dark green in the warmth of the growing season<br />

and turn lime green or even yellowish in colder<br />

weather. The color returns to green in the spring.<br />

Leaves that grow old and turn yellow must be removed.<br />

This boxwood is unique among boxwoods for its<br />

scentless evergreen leaves that are less than 1 inch<br />

long. <strong>Kingsville</strong> Dwarf <strong>Boxwood</strong> is the most sought<br />

after member of the "Buxus" family. It features<br />

dark green, tiny leathery leaves, dense growth habits<br />

and rough bark which are all the features that<br />

make it a good bonsai subject. Branches grow horizontally<br />

making it look like a miniature version of a<br />

100 year old shade tree.<br />

One note of caution: box leaves are poisonous,<br />

and eating even a few can kill a small pet.<br />

CARE<br />

Temperature: Zone 5-8. In zones 5 and 6, they will<br />

survive in winter storage. Although this boxwood is<br />

hardy to zone four, they survive better in cool indoor<br />

or greenhouse conditions in the winter. The<br />

ideal indoor temperature is less than 65°F. This is<br />

imperative if you style and work with the roots late<br />

in the growing season. All boxwoods need protection<br />

from frost and cold winds even when grown in<br />

the proper climate. Thus, it is important to either<br />

place in a cold frame with ample root protection,<br />

or bring indoors once weather begins to show signs<br />

of frost. Winter injury can be caused by summer<br />

drought, prolonged rainy periods, and forced late<br />

growth; new growth may be burned back. Avoid<br />

sunny winter exposures.<br />

Lighting: <strong>Boxwood</strong> Bonsai is not picky about lighting<br />

conditions and easily tolerates both sun and<br />

shade and has an indoor light requirement of only<br />

800 Lux which makes it a great plant for indoor<br />

locations that have lower levels of light. Outdoors<br />

partial shade is beneficial for potted specimens.<br />

Indoors place them in bright light or under artificial<br />

light.<br />

Air: In the summer, your boxwood will enjoy being<br />

brought back outside as it appreciates fresh air,<br />

they need a breeze to prevent inside leaves from<br />

mildewing.<br />

Watering: The boxwood bonsai enjoys moderate<br />

moisture levels, but does not like wet soil. Water<br />

thoroughly and then allow to partially dry inbetween<br />

waterings, but not to the point of dehydration.<br />

Be careful especially in cool conditions. It<br />

responds well to daily misting of the foliage.<br />

Fertilizing: A good organic fertilizer works well in<br />

combination with added iron. You will want to feed<br />

this bonsai every two weeks during growth. Fertilize<br />

May until about October. Then allow a rest period<br />

until late December. When kept indoors, begin<br />

fertilizing after winter solstice.<br />

Pruning / Training: Severe cuts can be made into<br />

fall and in early spring. Spring is the optimal time<br />

for pruning. Keeping the shape is relatively easy<br />

because of the slow growth habit of this tree.<br />

When branches are exposed to the sun, hard<br />

break back easily occurs allowing for the development<br />

of foliage pads. Wiring can be done year<br />

round but be careful as the branches are brittle.<br />

Tolerant of radical treatments, such as jinn, shari<br />

and being grown in root over rock styles. Control<br />

shape by thinning and by pinching off most of unwanted<br />

new growth.<br />

1. Minimize foliage removal as <strong>Kingsville</strong> grow only<br />

¼” to 1” per year.<br />

2. Use copper wire – it will allow you to “feel” the<br />

movement of the branches and avoid breaking<br />

them.<br />

3. <strong>Kingsville</strong> form naturally interesting shapes –<br />

use them before you cut.<br />

Insects / Pests: Red spider mites, fungus and rust<br />

may be encountered. Watch for curled or pock<br />

marked leaves. Root rot is also noted as a problem,<br />

usually one branch at a time dies. This can be<br />

associated with nematodes. Leaf miners can also<br />

cause blisters on the leaves, spider mites cause<br />

scratch like marks. Over wintering eggs are laid in<br />

September and October.<br />

Propagation: Propagation by mature cuttings<br />

dipped in rooting hormone in fall works well if<br />

placed in a cool greenhouse. The cuttings are<br />

placed in equal parts- sharp builder’s sand, peat<br />

and perlite in a shaded area. Because of the lateness<br />

of taking these cuttings, watering even in<br />

winter is recommended as is some bottom heating.<br />

Air layering from larger specimens also works<br />

well.<br />

Repotting: Usually repotting is only needed every<br />

other year in the Spring. In group plantings every 4<br />

or 5 years is adequate. Roots can be halved in volume<br />

in the spring. Their root system tends to have<br />

a stringy quality that tolerates root pruning well. It

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