Pints West 97, Spring 2013 - Bristol & District CAMRA

Dividing Clifton and Redland, Whiteladies Road and Blackboy
Hill have always been synonymous with pubs. In fact both
names derive from inns that were once situated here during the
19 th century. Maps from 1804 show both the Black Boy Inn and the
White Ladies Inn being present; although both have since closed (the
current Black Boy Inn was renamed from the Elephant and Castle in the
1990’s). Despite the rich pub history, real ale is not always associated
with this stretch of road. This area is a major watering hole for the termtime
student migration from the Stoke Bishop halls of residence to the
Centre, and most of the pubs tend to reflect this trade.
Admittedly the lower end is well served in terms of real ale with
the Penny Farthing, the Vittoria and the recently opened Wetherspoon
pub, the WG Grace – all worthy of a visit – but what about the upper
Blackboy Hill end?
It was with this question in mind that my father and I set out on a
dull, late December day to discover what was on offer to two generations
of real ale fans.
The Port of Call
Our first port of call was (pun intended) the Port of Call. Situated
on York Street just a few yards off Whiteladies Road up a small steep
hill, you’ll find this surprisingly spacious L-shaped pub. If you’ve never
been here before the nautical theme of its name is reflected in the décor
inside. With fishing nets and other sea detritus covering the ceiling, it
certainly has a lot of character. On our arrival we were presented with
four real ales: Sharp’s Doom Bar (4%) and Cornish Coaster (3.6%);
Otter Ale (4.5%); and a Christmas-themed guest beer which we’d not
come across before, Bah Humbug (5%) from Wychwood. The staff
were very friendly and the beer well kept, the Bah Humbug in particular
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PINTS WEST
Whiteladies and Blackboy real ale pubs
The Coach & Horses
being as dark, rich and fruity as the Christmas pudding I’d had a few days
before. If we had wanted to brave the weather there is a patio garden with
a view over Clifton, but the warm fire kept us inside and helped the ale slip
down. Alongside real ale they have the usual national keg brands as well as
a lunch and dinner menu offering traditional pub grub.
Receiving a friendly farewell from the staff we headed round the corner
to Highland Square which is dominated by our next destination, the Coach
and Horses.
This horseshoe-shaped pub is one I’m very familiar with having
enjoyed their ever-popular Wednesday quiz nights and Sunday lunches
for over two years now (both of which are, in my opinion, some of the
best in Bristol). It was once an old coaching and staging post for coaches
on the Bristol to Gloucester service via Henleaze and Filton. You enter
through the small terrace garden which has recently been renovated with
tables and decking. The pub has benefited from a recent refurbishment
which has smartened the interior with leather bench seating while retaining
its cosy charm with brass bar rails and a traditional log fire. There was a
wide selection of drinks on offer including Exmoor Ale (3.8%), St Austell
Tribute (4.2%), Sharp’s Doom Bar (4%), Courage Best (4%) and, for the
cider drinkers, Weston’s Old Rosie Scrumpy at 7.3%. The Exmoor Ale was
golden and crisp while the warm malts of my pint of Best were equally
lovely. With an ever changing selection of guest beers, you could easily
expect to find on a different day beers from other notable local breweries,
including Arbor, Bath Ales and Wickwar, to name but a few. It has managed
to get the perfect balance for its mixed clientèle of students and locals, so it
never feels too noisy when busy and is pleasantly quieter out of term time.
We could easily have stayed longer, but duty called.
Heading around the other side of Highland Square approximately 50
yards away is the Beaufort Arms. This unpretentious, down-to-earth cider
pub is (like the last two) well tucked away. With bare red brick walls and
sizzling wood-burning stove it has a well-worn feel about it. There’s just
one long bar and to the right of that a pool table and plasma TV. Despite
its claim to be a cider pub there is an equally acceptable offering of real
ale alongside it. Beer-wise there was the ubiquitous Doom Bar as well as
Fuller’s London Pride (4.1%) and Tetley’s Christmas Cracker at (4.3%).
For the cider drinkers there were three on tap including Ashbridge (6%),
Thatchers Dry (6%) and Taunton Traditional at a supping strength of 5.3%.
The staff and locals were full of conversation which, alongside the décor (or
lack thereof), made this feel like a traditional country pub, which is a rarity
this side of the city.
Our next intended stop
meant a slight detour back into
Highland Square and down
some steps to Worrall Road to
check out the Red Lion. This
pub recently went through a
full refit but previously had a
polished stone floor, hops above
the bar and served a very decent
pint of Bath SPA. On arrival we
discovered it was closed and
now goes by the name of the
Red Lion Wine Bar. Before this
news lowered our estimations
we noticed a sign in the window
declaring that they were ‘now
serving real ale’.
This would certainly be one
I would be keen to come back
to in future, but for now we
returned to the top of Blackboy
Hill and to the Kings Arms.
This large multi-level
The Kings Arms
pub has gone by many names in recent times; you may know it better as
Babushka or the Black Bear. If you remember its early days as a big basic
Courage pub with a skittle alley, it has changed out of all recognition. The
décor is a heady mix of Art Nouveau, gilt and gingerbread, statues, spiral
staircases, Regency style door fittings, and a variety of wallpapers and
mirrors appearing on its four levels. At the main mezzanine bar, one level
up from the entrance, there were two hand pumps offering Wickwar’s BOB
and Exmoor Ale. The pint of BOB I had was delicious as always, but a bit
too chilled for my personal taste on such a winter’s day. Alongside the beer