Taking on Jeff's Joy Get the Family Kayaking ... - Canoe & Kayak

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Sea Kayaking Kayaking Stewart Island Nic Johns discovers this paddling paradise in perfect conditions. In August five Wellington Yakity Yak Club members packed up the van and set sail for Stewart Island on the way collecting five more paddlers who had flown to Invercargill. We soon became very close friends, as all ten of us squished up together in the van heading for Bluff. Our sailing across the Foveaux straight was a little bumpy, but nothing could dampen our spirits, eager to get on the glorious waters of the deep, deep south. Liz, the owner of Rakiura Kayaks and Bunkers Backpackers, greeted us at Oban wharf and helped us store our kayaks by the beach and transport our gear to the Backpackers. She was outstanding. We even scored crayfish tail for later on in our journey! We enjoyed a few drinks at the local pub and then settled in for an early night. We woke to a fantastic day and began our journey by rounding Ackers point and stopped on Ulva Island, a bird sanctuary, for lunch. Cheeky wekas enjoyed the prospect of eating our food as much as we did and eventually they chased us off their land. We paddled around the Island, and crossed to Golden Bay. Mid-afternoon we reached a small Bach on Stewart Island weka, the smallest of the four weka subspecies. Bravo Island, kindly provided by Liz, and used the remaining daylight to fish, explore the coastline and collect mussels for supper. The early birds got to see a seal playing on the sandbar and basking in the morning sun. After listening to the morning weather report, and continuing fantastic weather, we headed west along the inlet out of the Time to reflect on the beauty of Stewart Island A quick check of the kayaks at Lake Tekapo marine reserve. The keen fishers dropped their lines and we enjoyed the company of dolphins, more seals, oyster catchers, and a shark. We arrived at Fred’s Camp Hut mid-afternoon and were delighted to find the hut to ourselves. The toilet was up 50 steps, and we wondered whether anyone would actually make that journey in the night? And whether we should step very carefully around the hut the next morning! The next day there was a beautiful sunrise over the inlet and the sparkling water reflected the rolling hills. Our surroundings were stunning. Freshwater Hut, up the northwest arm, was only accessible on the 2 pm high tide. Until then, a few of us explored the south-west arm of the Inlet. Once in the northwest arm we were careful to avoid the shallows and find the right channel. This was all too much for one member, who soon became ‘beached as bro’. Some of us spent the night at Freshwater the rest took a four hour tramp across to Mason Bay Hut. Time allowed a look around Mason Bay the next morning, about a 15 minute walk from the hut, before setting off back across to meet the rest of our group. We arrived back just in time to catch the turning tide, making our trip back down the river that little bit more comfortable. We paddled across to North Arm Hut and were greeted by an overly-excited sea lion who took quite a fancy to one member’s boat. In fact, it stayed at the back of her boat following it around (similar to their behaviour with sharks, in which they stay outside their prey’s peripheral vision). This caused great amusement for those of us safely on shore. That night we had a briefing for the final day’s paddle, which soon turned into a hut talk as other trampers became intrigued by our kayaking journey. The last day, the wind finally caught up to us. However, heading in the same direction as us this made for easy paddling. We meandered along the coastline, stopping to check out the historical Whalers Base in Prices Inlet and arrived back just in time to experience a traditional Sunday Night Quiz Extravaganza on Stewart Island! Our two teams did not escape the notice of the rather enthusiastic quiz master, and I think we will all remember that the primary use for pig’s fur is in fact to keep a pig warm. For our final day on the Island we split up to do various activities, such as exploring around Oban, Ulva Island Bird sanctuary, checking out the museum and taking a scenic flight over the island. I opted for the latter experience and it was surreal to see the unspoilt beauty of miles of rugged coastline, some of which we had been paddling the last few days. Some of our members used 48 ISSUE FIFTY Three • 2 0 0 9
this opportunity to strategise a circumnavigation of the Island next year, making me realise that the possibilities of where kayaking can take you really are endless. Believe it not, this was my first club kayaking trip and I can see why people say that winter is the best time for kayaking. Beautiful, calm, crisp mornings and settled weather. The water was so still and glassy, it felt more like paddling in a lake than being on the open sea. Club trips are also a great opportunity to meet like-minded people from different backgrounds, with the common interest in kayaking. It’s also a chance to develop kayaking skills under the watchful eye of more experienced paddlers. With Stewart Island’s amazing rock gardens, bush, inlets and more, there’s something for everyone. So, if you’re looking for a fun filled adventure holiday next winter, I’d recommend a trip to Stewart Island. Although often called Whaler’s Base, Prices’ Inlet was a shipyard and no whales were brought into this area. My Stewart Island Experience Sea Kayaking One of the things that always sticks in my mindis the friendliness of the Stewart Island locals. People say hi and smile as you pass them on the street without awkwardness and there is a feeling of belonging that is lost in so many places now. Liz and Heath from Bunkers Backpackers were incredible hosts who along with their local knowledge and kayaking ability welcomed us like “old friends” Liz had paddled around the Island on a number of times and was great to talk to about our future Stewart Island trips. “Great local knowledge” On the other hand, Heath was a fisherman with excellent weather and sea information on the area. I would advise any kayakers planning any trips on Stewart Island to call Bunkers Backpackers and begin their trip from there. It was a very rewarding trip for me to plan. Andy Blake Andy never misses a chance to chat to the locals.
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