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New brewery and visitor centre for Belvoir - Nottingham CAMRA

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Close to the Bourse, Falststaff,<br />

at 17 Rue Henri Maus, has a<br />

more limited selection but is<br />

still well worth a visit, if only to<br />

marvel at its gloriously<br />

authentic, fin de siècle<br />

interior, whilst on the other<br />

side of the Bourse, Cirio is an<br />

equally impressive, original<br />

Bruxellois art nouveau café.<br />

From here it is a short step<br />

to a trio of café bars tucked<br />

away up blind alleys: La Bécasse off Rue Tabora <strong>and</strong> L’Imaige de<br />

Nostre Dame off nearby Rue Marché aux Herbes, together with<br />

Bon Vieux Temps, almost next door <strong>and</strong> the oldest <strong>and</strong> more<br />

atmospheric of the three.<br />

Just a few blocks towards Gare Centrale (Central Station), at 4a<br />

Impasse de la Fidélité off Rue des Bouchers, the Delirium beer<br />

café offers an awesome choice of over 2000 beers including 14<br />

on tap. Most of the action takes place in the cellar bar where<br />

old barrels serve as tables <strong>and</strong> assorted breweriana smothers<br />

the walls <strong>and</strong> just about everywhere else. Definitely not to be missed,<br />

even if getting served can sometimes be a pain.<br />

Closer yet to Gare Centrale,<br />

A La Mort Subite can be<br />

found at 7 Rue Montagne<br />

aux Herbes Potagères <strong>and</strong> is<br />

probably the finest surving,<br />

fin de siècle long bar in the<br />

City. Mort Subite gueuze<br />

beers, Duvel <strong>and</strong> a good<br />

few others can all be<br />

enjoyed in this splendid,<br />

historic setting, complete<br />

with suitably detached<br />

waiter service.<br />

Bier Circus, at 47 Rue de l’Enseignement, is about a 20 minutes walk<br />

away beyond the cathedral but well worth the ef<strong>for</strong>t. Now more a<br />

bistro featuring ‘cuisine a la bière’ than the simple beer café it used to<br />

be, Bier Circus nonetheless continues to offer over 170 excellent <strong>and</strong><br />

varied brews. Meanwhile, closer to Gare du Midi <strong>and</strong> the Eurostar<br />

terminal, Warm Water at 25 Rue des Renards, not far from the vast<br />

edifice of the Palais de Justice is a cheerful, unpretentious sort of place<br />

<strong>and</strong> a rare outlet <strong>for</strong> draught Girardin beers.<br />

Finally, if time permits a trip further out, head west along the N8 to<br />

Schepdaal where the Rare Vos is a charming old tavern overlooking the<br />

Market Place. Girardin brew a splendid beer especially <strong>for</strong> them <strong>and</strong> the<br />

traditional Belgian cooking is both hearty <strong>and</strong> thoroughly<br />

recommendable, especially the horse steaks. And if it’s Sunday,<br />

another <strong>and</strong> very special treat lies a little further out, opposite St.<br />

Ursula’s Church in the pleasant village of Eizeringen. In de Verzekering<br />

Tegen de Grote Dorst (Insurance Against Great Thirst) is a superb<br />

example of the sort of simple beerhouse, which was no doubt common<br />

in this part of Payottenl<strong>and</strong> 100 years ago. Rescued from oblivion by<br />

two brothers when the lady who had run the place <strong>for</strong> the last 51 years<br />

finally retired on Christmas Eve 1999, its two beautifully restored bars<br />

complete with pot stove <strong>and</strong> wind-up gramophone are only open<br />

Sundays <strong>and</strong> public holidays from 10.00 to13.30. More museum,<br />

perhaps, than drinking den, ‘Dorst’ specialises in the spontaneously<br />

fermented lambic beers <strong>for</strong> which the<br />

region is so famous <strong>and</strong> offers probably<br />

the best selection to be found anywhere<br />

in Belgium, including examples from<br />

Drie Fonteinen, Hanssens, Girardin, De<br />

Cam <strong>and</strong> Cantillon. And if that’s not<br />

good enough <strong>for</strong> you, they can<br />

probably rustle up the odd bottle or<br />

two of Duvel.<br />

Tasting Notes<br />

Postscript:<br />

In November a certain celebrated local brewer, who had better<br />

remain nameless, asked a fellow curmudgeon, the Irritable Cellarman<br />

no less, to accompany him on trip to Brussels. He had never been to<br />

Belgium <strong>and</strong> was keen to sample the well-regarded beers on their<br />

own territory. However our hero had never ever travelled on a plane<br />

be<strong>for</strong>e <strong>and</strong> was underst<strong>and</strong>ably feeling a little apprehensive as they<br />

waited at the airport <strong>for</strong> their departure, having already checked in<br />

online. When they announced "please proceed to the gate with your<br />

passport” he opened up his br<strong>and</strong> spanking new passport - only to<br />

find that he had brought his wife's by mistake!<br />

Needless to say he was refused boarding <strong>and</strong> was left st<strong>and</strong>ing at the<br />

departure gate as the plane headed off towards the beery delights of<br />

Brussels. However BMI found him a seat on a later flight <strong>and</strong> his wife<br />

made a mercy dash to the airport with his passport, so he had to<br />

make his first ever flight on his own, being talked through what to do<br />

at the other end via a mobile phone. However the weekend<br />

otherwise proved a success <strong>and</strong> they were only two hours late <strong>for</strong><br />

their table reservation that evening <strong>for</strong> some splendid nosh <strong>and</strong><br />

excellent beer at the delightful Spinnekopke restaurant that<br />

specialises in beer cuisine (bizarrely the name means "In The Spider's<br />

Little Head" ). Amongst many other very good bars they also visited<br />

In de Verzekering Tegen de Grote Dorst, as mentioned above, <strong>and</strong><br />

found it fascinating. Although enjoying the rest of the many beers<br />

sampled our hero steadfastly refused to drink the various geuezes<br />

<strong>and</strong> draught lambics that were encountered along the way, including<br />

at a visit to the famous Cantillon Brewery, declaring that any selfrespecting<br />

British brewer would chuck these world-renown<br />

spontaneously fermented brews down the drain!<br />

So who is the local brewer in question? We are not saying me duck!<br />

www.nottinghamcamra.org February/ March 08<br />

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