New brewery and visitor centre for Belvoir - Nottingham CAMRA
New brewery and visitor centre for Belvoir - Nottingham CAMRA
New brewery and visitor centre for Belvoir - Nottingham CAMRA
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Close to the Bourse, Falststaff,<br />
at 17 Rue Henri Maus, has a<br />
more limited selection but is<br />
still well worth a visit, if only to<br />
marvel at its gloriously<br />
authentic, fin de siècle<br />
interior, whilst on the other<br />
side of the Bourse, Cirio is an<br />
equally impressive, original<br />
Bruxellois art nouveau café.<br />
From here it is a short step<br />
to a trio of café bars tucked<br />
away up blind alleys: La Bécasse off Rue Tabora <strong>and</strong> L’Imaige de<br />
Nostre Dame off nearby Rue Marché aux Herbes, together with<br />
Bon Vieux Temps, almost next door <strong>and</strong> the oldest <strong>and</strong> more<br />
atmospheric of the three.<br />
Just a few blocks towards Gare Centrale (Central Station), at 4a<br />
Impasse de la Fidélité off Rue des Bouchers, the Delirium beer<br />
café offers an awesome choice of over 2000 beers including 14<br />
on tap. Most of the action takes place in the cellar bar where<br />
old barrels serve as tables <strong>and</strong> assorted breweriana smothers<br />
the walls <strong>and</strong> just about everywhere else. Definitely not to be missed,<br />
even if getting served can sometimes be a pain.<br />
Closer yet to Gare Centrale,<br />
A La Mort Subite can be<br />
found at 7 Rue Montagne<br />
aux Herbes Potagères <strong>and</strong> is<br />
probably the finest surving,<br />
fin de siècle long bar in the<br />
City. Mort Subite gueuze<br />
beers, Duvel <strong>and</strong> a good<br />
few others can all be<br />
enjoyed in this splendid,<br />
historic setting, complete<br />
with suitably detached<br />
waiter service.<br />
Bier Circus, at 47 Rue de l’Enseignement, is about a 20 minutes walk<br />
away beyond the cathedral but well worth the ef<strong>for</strong>t. Now more a<br />
bistro featuring ‘cuisine a la bière’ than the simple beer café it used to<br />
be, Bier Circus nonetheless continues to offer over 170 excellent <strong>and</strong><br />
varied brews. Meanwhile, closer to Gare du Midi <strong>and</strong> the Eurostar<br />
terminal, Warm Water at 25 Rue des Renards, not far from the vast<br />
edifice of the Palais de Justice is a cheerful, unpretentious sort of place<br />
<strong>and</strong> a rare outlet <strong>for</strong> draught Girardin beers.<br />
Finally, if time permits a trip further out, head west along the N8 to<br />
Schepdaal where the Rare Vos is a charming old tavern overlooking the<br />
Market Place. Girardin brew a splendid beer especially <strong>for</strong> them <strong>and</strong> the<br />
traditional Belgian cooking is both hearty <strong>and</strong> thoroughly<br />
recommendable, especially the horse steaks. And if it’s Sunday,<br />
another <strong>and</strong> very special treat lies a little further out, opposite St.<br />
Ursula’s Church in the pleasant village of Eizeringen. In de Verzekering<br />
Tegen de Grote Dorst (Insurance Against Great Thirst) is a superb<br />
example of the sort of simple beerhouse, which was no doubt common<br />
in this part of Payottenl<strong>and</strong> 100 years ago. Rescued from oblivion by<br />
two brothers when the lady who had run the place <strong>for</strong> the last 51 years<br />
finally retired on Christmas Eve 1999, its two beautifully restored bars<br />
complete with pot stove <strong>and</strong> wind-up gramophone are only open<br />
Sundays <strong>and</strong> public holidays from 10.00 to13.30. More museum,<br />
perhaps, than drinking den, ‘Dorst’ specialises in the spontaneously<br />
fermented lambic beers <strong>for</strong> which the<br />
region is so famous <strong>and</strong> offers probably<br />
the best selection to be found anywhere<br />
in Belgium, including examples from<br />
Drie Fonteinen, Hanssens, Girardin, De<br />
Cam <strong>and</strong> Cantillon. And if that’s not<br />
good enough <strong>for</strong> you, they can<br />
probably rustle up the odd bottle or<br />
two of Duvel.<br />
Tasting Notes<br />
Postscript:<br />
In November a certain celebrated local brewer, who had better<br />
remain nameless, asked a fellow curmudgeon, the Irritable Cellarman<br />
no less, to accompany him on trip to Brussels. He had never been to<br />
Belgium <strong>and</strong> was keen to sample the well-regarded beers on their<br />
own territory. However our hero had never ever travelled on a plane<br />
be<strong>for</strong>e <strong>and</strong> was underst<strong>and</strong>ably feeling a little apprehensive as they<br />
waited at the airport <strong>for</strong> their departure, having already checked in<br />
online. When they announced "please proceed to the gate with your<br />
passport” he opened up his br<strong>and</strong> spanking new passport - only to<br />
find that he had brought his wife's by mistake!<br />
Needless to say he was refused boarding <strong>and</strong> was left st<strong>and</strong>ing at the<br />
departure gate as the plane headed off towards the beery delights of<br />
Brussels. However BMI found him a seat on a later flight <strong>and</strong> his wife<br />
made a mercy dash to the airport with his passport, so he had to<br />
make his first ever flight on his own, being talked through what to do<br />
at the other end via a mobile phone. However the weekend<br />
otherwise proved a success <strong>and</strong> they were only two hours late <strong>for</strong><br />
their table reservation that evening <strong>for</strong> some splendid nosh <strong>and</strong><br />
excellent beer at the delightful Spinnekopke restaurant that<br />
specialises in beer cuisine (bizarrely the name means "In The Spider's<br />
Little Head" ). Amongst many other very good bars they also visited<br />
In de Verzekering Tegen de Grote Dorst, as mentioned above, <strong>and</strong><br />
found it fascinating. Although enjoying the rest of the many beers<br />
sampled our hero steadfastly refused to drink the various geuezes<br />
<strong>and</strong> draught lambics that were encountered along the way, including<br />
at a visit to the famous Cantillon Brewery, declaring that any selfrespecting<br />
British brewer would chuck these world-renown<br />
spontaneously fermented brews down the drain!<br />
So who is the local brewer in question? We are not saying me duck!<br />
www.nottinghamcamra.org February/ March 08<br />
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