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O XFORD ASIAN TEXTILE GROUP
Newsletter
No. 8
O ctober 1997
Jacket
and trousers of vari-coloured
gauze
patchwork by Chung-
hie Lee (b. 1945), Korea,
1992
(FE.281.1&2- 1995).
Courtesy of the Trustees of the Victoria and Albert Museum.

2
THE FAR EASTERN DEPARTMENT
HE TEXTILE COLLECTION OF
T
T THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM
A
the
1970,
n
I
artefacts
research
and
for
care
to
created
was
Department
Eastern
Far
divided
were
Asia
East
from
items
year,
that
until
Up
Korea.
and
Japan
China,
from
material
different
etween
b -
new department,
the
of
founding
the
with
but,
departments,
ased
b
it
fel
as
w
with
staff
specialist
a
by
served
better
be
would
nations
three
from these
art
that
t
an
languages.
and
in Asian culture
and background
nterest
i
dress
and
textiles
valued
always
has
Department
Eastern
Far
the
inception,
its
Since
p
vital
and
integral
an
s
a
as
include
to
sought
has
It
Asia.
East
of
culture
material
the
of
art
widely.
holdings
the
published
has
and
galleries
major
four
its
into
possible
as
textiles
many
offices
Department
Eastern
Far
the
within
area
study
and
store
textile
small,
albeit
new,
A
by appointment.
public
the
to
shown
on display to be
not
items
nables
e
of
numbers
large
has
three,
the
of
greatest
the
numerically
collection,
Chinese
The
mostly
collars,
and
skirts
jackets,
gowns,
women's
and
robes
audience
robes,
dragon
men's
n
the
rom
f
imperial
have
these
of
few
A
before.
from
some
but
century,
ineteenth
theatrical
a
robe,
mourning
a
are
items
dress
the
Amongst
not.
do
many
and
connections
resist
silk
purple
bright
of
suit
trouser
girl's
young
a
stripes,
tiger
velvet
painted
with
acket
j -
deer
spotted
with
1600
around
from
robe
tapestry
silk
a
and
sprigs
flower
with
dyed
and
badges
rank
embroidered
of
trays
Several
yellow.
and
greens
blues,
clear
in
medallions
arch
the
are
as
visitors,
by
requested
frequently
items
the
among
are
leevebands
s
aeological
Aurel
Sir
by
recovered
India,
of
Government
from the
Department
the
to
loan
on
fragments
some
survivals,
astonishing
These
century.
this
earlier
Asia
Central
of
deserts
the
in
Stein
brightly
still
and
condition
pristine
almost
n
i - e
rang
oloured,
c
century
first
from the
date
in
in
lived
who
peoples
diverse
of
remains
chance
the
are
and
CE
century
eleventh
the
to
BCE
idely
w - .
Asia
of
area
broad
a
across
ispersed settlements
d
tw
velvets,
of
group
a
are
textiles
Chinese
the
amongst
pieces
familiar
ess
L
drawers
o
f
o
esi
k
to
thirteenth
loom from the
the
on
patterned
silks
furnishings,
weave)
tapestry
(silk
cross
white
and
blue
vestments,
priests'
Daoist
several
centuries,
twentieth
he
t -
stitch
hanging
celebratory
and
festival
many
and
cotton
on
mbroideries
e
scenes
with
embroidered
s
glorious
Two
inscriptions.
dedicatory
with
often
legend,
and
literature
Chinese
from
sedan
wedding
of
set
entire
an
are
category
last
this
of
xamples
e -
twelve
and
hangings
chair
f
gift
the
birthday,
eightieth
an
for
panels
azzling
d
panel
each
aunt,
an
to
nephew
rom a
twenty
from the
two scenes
with
orked
w - .
piety
filial
of
examples
our
f
large
and
varied
a
constitute
market
export
the
for
explicitly
China
in
made
Textiles
centr
a
with
bedspreads
Embroidered
collection.
the
within
roup
g
borders
and
cartouche
al
as
designs
Europeanized
increasingly
show
and
onwards
century
seventeenth
from the
date
western
for
and
furnishings
for
used
silks
Painted
by.
goes
ime
t -
for
as
well
as
dresses
style
l
the
from
date
mostly
vestments
church
hristian
C
fringed
and
embroidered
while
1700s
ate
late
to
mid
from the
date
themselves,
Chinese
the
by
worn
dress
item of
an
not
shawls,
twentieth century.
the
through
ineteenth century and on right
n
well
is
century
twentieth
he
T - t
Chinese
the
amongst
epresented
r
A collection
extiles.
alluring
Hong Kong,
or
New Territories
from the
dress
f
o
heongsam
c
e
th
to
1930s
rom the
f

3
Kong
Hong
of
back
handing
the
celebrating
handkerchief
a
and
suit",
"Mao
a
day,
present
V.& A.
the
in
housed
contemporary items
the
of
some
just
in 1997 are
China
o
t
from the
away
made
cottons
rural
its
for
renowned
most
is
collection
Japanese
The
in
dye
blue
indigo
with
coloured
characteristically
is
It
centres.
weaving
metropolitan
reat
g
a
Ryukyu
the
islands,
offshore
Japan's
of
textiles
distinctive
The
techniques.
resist
of
variety
V.&
the
of
one
are
dyes,
and
colours
pigment
by
achieved
colourings
bold
their
with
Islands,
earl
and
1950s
late
the
in
purchase
their
and
glories,
crowning
.'s
A
the
to
thanks
is
1960s
y
Traditional
Digby.
Wingfield
George
Textiles,
of
Keeper
past
a
of
erspicacity
p
imono
k
for
as
centuries,
nineteenth
and
eighteenth
from the
both
wraps,
priests'
Buddhist
and
women
sev
and
surcoat
feather
peacock
flamboyant
a
as
ell
w
y
generousl
of
pairs
ral
e -
pleated
and
cut
items.
textile
Japanese
the
amongst
also
are
occasions
formal
on
men
by
worn
trousers
from
range
clothes
These
century.
twentieth
from the
dress
of
groups
contrasting
are
here
T
a
pap
mulberry
Japanese
from
made
uit
s
a
to
1983,
in
Miyake
Issey
by
designed
cloth,
er
of
roup
g
imono
k
d
han
show
which
sixties
the
to
teens
the
from
ating
d -
dyeing
and
weaving
the
are
scale
the
of
end
other
the
At
means.
mechanical
by
reproduced
echniques
t
kimono
by
crafted
arts
fibre
other
nd
a
now
V.& A.'s
the
of
part
crucial
form a
which
artists
named
crafts.
studio
Japanese
modern
collection of
nternationally important
i
called
covers
gift
silk
Japanese
of
collection
substantial
a
has
V.& A.
he
T
ukusa,
f
as
patter
of
holdings
intriguing
as
ell
w
different
from
samples
textile
with
filled
books
n
Dutch
family,
Siebold
von
great
the
via
Museum
the
into
came
these
of
set
One
centuries.
nineteenth
late
the
in
Europe
into
imported
textiles
Japanese
studies.
Japanese
of
pioneers
cent
twentieth
early
nd
a
like
stores
at
sold
and
craze
"Japonisme"
the
of
wake
the
in
ury
collection.
the
in
included
also
are
Street
Regent
in
iberty's
L
been
largely
has
and
two
other
the
than
smaller
much
is
collection
textile
Korean
The
pane
Three
years.
recent
very
in
up
uilt
b
with
worked
dresses,
wedding
from traditional
ls
complete
a
1992,
in
and,
1920s,
the
Museum in
the
into
came
ground,
red
a
on
flowers
lotus
Young
Lee
Madame
of
studio
the
from
acquired
was
woman
a
for
outfit
ridal
b -
a
hee,
best
Korea's
is
who
esigner
d - n
now
k
colours,
plain
glowing
in
ensemble
This
couturier.
present
the
for
traditions
past
einterprets
r -
other
prompted
has
which
concern
this
is
It
day.
p.1)
on
(illustrated
jacket
patchwork
silk
transparent
the
as
such
acquisitions
textile
Korean
sho
of
pair
nd
a
g
Chun
by
made
s
e -
of
cloths
wrapping
pieced
the
by
inspired
both
Lee,
hie
four
of
set
a
includes
also
collection
the
vein,
conservative
more
a
In
Korea.
traditional
royal
of
apartments
the
adorned
have
would
which
panels
screen
images"
"auspicious
an
omen,
w
scroll
embroidered
gold
and
blue
a
and
cloth
wrapping
hemp
painted
exuberant
elite.
among Korea's
China
classical
of
love
reflecting the
bronzes,
Chinese
epicting archaic
d
tas
collecting
the
reflect
V.& A.
the
of
Department
Eastern
Far
the
in
textiles
he
T
tes
mid
from the
Europeans
different
of
number
small
a
f
o -
present.
the
to
century
nineteenth
lies
holdings
the
of
strength
the
treasures,
great
as
classed
be
can
pieces
the
all
not
While
ab
deal
great
a
reveal
histories
life
objects'
the
fact;
very
that
n
i
time
in
moment
the
out
constantly
a
us
to
they transmit
and
collected,
hen they were
w - .
Asia
East
of
hanging vision
c
erity Wilson
V
Department
Eastern
ar
F
Museum
Albert
and
ictoria
V

4
USEUMS ROUND
M
- P
U
mo
museums
two
the
of
Directors
he
T
have
Group
the
with
associated
closely
st
the
In
made.
been
yet
have
appointments
new
no
and
Newsletter
last
the
since
retired
of
Director
Acting
appointed
been
has
Antiquities,
of
Keeper
Moorey,
Roger
Dr
meantime
Rivers.
Pitt
the
of
Acting Director
is
Gosden
Chris
and Dr
Ashmolean Museum,
he
t
works,
building
to
due
upheaval
its
almost!)
(well
over
got
has
Ashmolean
the
as
Just
mai
the
of
all,
not
if
parts,
Some
course.
same
the
on
embark
to
about
is
Rivers
Pitt
he
t
n
re
while
closed
be
to
have
useum will
M - e
r
and
oofing
r -
the
in
out
carried
is
work
decoration
major
make
to
also
opportunity
the
taking
is
Museum
The
1998.
of
half
second
col
the
of
conservation
the
to
system vital
control
environmental
the
to
mprovements
i
at
lections
upper
and
lower
the
of
parts
and
area
exhibition
special
the
that
hoped
is
It
time.
same
the
may
gallery displays
'
open.
kept
e
b
in
partly
on,
now
from
restricted
be
to
has
collections
reserve
the
to
Access
t
In
works.
above
the
for
reparation
p
situation
the
reserve
clothing
and
textile
the
of
case
e
h
is
from
store
textile
and
department
conservation
the
of
removal
enforced
The
serious.
ore
m
its
unknown
yet
as
an
to
Institute)
Studies
American
new
the
for
room
make
(to
site
present
m
estination,
d
restricted
severely
be
only
not
will
collection
this
to
access
that
eans
suitable
unless
January
from
altogether
closed
be
probably
will
but
immediately,
found.
ccommodation can be
a
acce
improve
to
plans
developing
actively
Museum is
term the
longer
the
n
I
the
to
ss
improved
Centre,
Management
new Collections
a
include
plans
These
general.
in
collections
educational
for
facilities
and
Clothing,
and
Textiles
for
Centre
a
facilities,
exhibition
special
ctivities.
a
Burli
at
Mankind
Museum of
the
afield,
arther
F
permanently
closing
is
House
gton
n
at
site
main
Museum's
British
the
to
moved
being
are
collections
its
and
year,
this
of
end
he
t
in
of
offshoot
an
Centre,
Textile
new World
the
to
course
due
in
and
Street
Russell
reat
G
the
ne
The
2000.
in
open
to
due
.M.
B
Museum will
British
the
at
galleries
ethnographic
w
be
Library.
British
by the
occupied
building hitherto
the
of
oused in parts
h
collection
a
years
twenty
over
up
built
has
Toronto
in
Textiles
for
Museum
The
ce
fabrics,
including
pieces
7000
over
umbering
n
quilts
carpets,
garments,
cloths,
remonial
They
basis.
rotating
a
on
exhibited
are
These
world.
the
from around
artefacts
related
and
members
our
to
interest
of
is
that
much
nclude
i -
Tibetan
saris,
Indian
embroidery,
Chinese
Japanese
obes,
r
esas
k
s
priest
(
temple
Burmese
and
Indian
kimonos,
wedding
and
robes)
'
and
depth
its
for
outstanding
is
section
Indonesian
The
ikats.
Asian
Central
hangings,
an
also
is
There
Java.
of
island
from the
batik
century
nineteenth
in
especially
diversity,
extensi
and
mportant
i
and
China
Afghanistan,
from Turkey,
rugs
art
folk
of
collection
ve
the
at
volunteer
a
White,
Marsha
by
privately
maintained
website
a
Museum has
The
Tibet.
gwhite@interlog.com.
contacted at
who can be
useum,
M
ditor
E

5
P ROGRAMME
T uesday 2 D ecember 1997
T HAI TEXTILES:
F ROM VILLAGE TO ROYAL COURT
b y Susan Conway
( Author of the British Museum publication T hai Textiles)
P auling Centre for Human Sciences
58 Banbury Road, Oxford
R efreshments served from 5:15
L ecture begins at 5:45 p.m.
p.m.
S aturday
17 January
1998
T EXTILES AND CONSERVATION AT THE PITT RIVERS MUSEUM
w ith
Julia
Nicholson and Lorraine
( details below)
Rostant
F OR MEMBERS ONLY
9 .45 a. m. to 12 noon
D uring the visit to the Pitt Rivers on 17 January, Julia Nicholson will take us on a
tour of the textile and loom cases and the Naga material. Lorraine Rostant will give us a talk
and demonstration on conservation with special reference to information from her Budapest
c ourse. In between there will be a cha
nce to look at the exhibition Braving the Elements:
C onserving Plant Fibre Clothing from Around the World.
P le
ase fill in the pink application form posted with this Newsletter if you want to come to
t he
Pitt Rivers visit. Numbers are restricted. Map available on request. For all
e nquiries
on events contact Felicity Wood, tel. 01865 554281 (see also p. 11).

6
USEUMS IN BUDAPEST
M
the
of
generosity
the
to
part
in
least
at
hanks
T
spent
I
Group,
Textile
Asian
Oxford
was
course
The
conservation.
textile
studying
Budapest
in
summer
this
of
weeks
six
an
as
article
this
use
than
rather
However,
useful.
incredibly
and
exhausting
intensive,
knowle
acquired
newly
my
show off
to
pportunity
o
of
structure
chemical
the
say,
of,
dge
went
I
before
meant
that
what
of
idea
no
had
I
(no,
silk
of
region
isoelectric
the
or
indigo
the
of
some
and
itself
city
the
about
briefly
write
would
I
thought
I
either),
Budapest,
to
to
museum collections
onderful
w .
there
found
e
b
art
and
museums
61
mentions
guidebook
My
seriously.
culture
its
takes
Budapest
excellent
from the
range
museums
The
exhaustive.
means
no
by
is
list
that
and
galleries
Commerc
and
Confectionary
Museum of
esoteric
more
the
Museum to
ational
N
which,
e
actually found.
never
I
my regret
to
much
day,
passed each
lthough according to my map I
a
of
flight
wide
a
pillars,
facade,
imposing
with
however,
recognizable,
Immediately
pock
a
like
looks
it
outside
the
From
Museum.
National
Hungary's
is
teps,
s
t
e -
British
sized
its
of
history
the
on
concentrates
Hungary's
museum,
national
own
our
unlike
but,
Museum,
Fine
Museum of
the
in
housed
are
Art
Classical
and
Egyptology
of
Collections
people.
own
explaini
focus
specific
Museum a
National
the
allowing
rts,
A
from
Hungary
of
history
the
ng
Re
communism.
of
fall
the
to
times
rchaeological
a -
this
Museum does
the
year,
last
displayed
temporary exhibitions.
small
display and
lucid and beautifully designed permanent
a
ith
w
textile
studying
day
a
hours
eight
pending
S
the
of
view
my
course
of
conservation,
the
with
impressed
especially
was
I
costume.
and
textiles
its
toward
skewed
was
collection
made
and
designed
all
were
learnt
later
I
which
Museum,
the
throughout
used
mannequins
of
each
for
year
a
within
ndividually
i
y
sevent
he
t -
you
of
Any
display.
on
costumes
three
to
mannequin
the
for
is
it
know how important
will
costume
exhibit
to
had
ever
have
who
j
e
b
right
st
u -
the
to
damage
cause
not
do
stresses
that
so
fully
costume
the
support
must
it
be
not
must
it
yet
costume,
the
of
period
the
to
appropriate
be
must
it
aesthetically
textile,
The
displayed.
being
object
actual
from the
detract
to
as
intrusive
o
s
the
of
mannequins
etc,
arms,
face,
parts,
visible
the
admirably,
criteria
these
all
Museum fulfilled
National
off
an
in
covered
eing
b -
the
protecting
and
appearance
matt
a
giving
stockinette
cotton
white
underneath
surface
hard
the
with
contact
from
extile
t
beauty!
of
thing
a
was
hair
The
.
off
pleated
using
achieved
were
airstyles
H -
curls,
plaits,
of
series
a
in
georgette
silk
white
to
century
fifteenth
from the
fashion
appropriate
the
of
hairstyle
a
mimicking
each
ringlets,
day.
present
he
t
most
the
me,
or
F
h
twentiet
of
that
was
display
nteresting
i -
Learning
Hungary.
century
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Wood
Felicity
Secretary
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P
554281
01865
Tel/Fax
6TG;
OX2
Oxford,
Road,
Frenchay
2
e- m
wood@dial.pipex.co
felicity.
ail:
m
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POLOGY
A
dresses
gorgeous
the
of
owner
the
Keane,
Josephine
to
apologies
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the
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o
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alms,
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Newsletter.
last
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exhibition
that
to
introduction
the
in
name
her
mention
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and
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ditor
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2
1
ETTER TO THE
L R
DITO
E
Editor,
ear
D
am
I
Australia,
Melbourne,
of
University
the
of
Department
Arts
Fine
the
Through
as
locally
(known
textiles
fibre
the
on
project
research
a
doing
urrently
c
doyo)
lap
u
by
made
cen
is
production
the
of
Most
Borneo.
Kalimantan,
East
of
people
Benuaq
Dayak
he
t
tred
the
in
interested
am also
I
Mahakam River.
the
of
south
Isuy,
Tanjung
of
village
the
around
area.
same
the
in
work done
pplique
a
a
for
catalogue
a
includes
which
thesis
a
in
presented
be
to
is
project
research
The
am ho
I
which
exhibition
ypothetical
h
for
planning
In
reality.
a
become
eventually
may
ping
of
examples
old
and
rare
excellent,
identify
to
am trying
I
his
t
I
doyo.
lap
u
is
know there
Robyn
of
53
page
on
(featured
Canberra
in
collection
Gallery
National
Australian
the
in
one
axwell's
M
s
extile
T
h
Sout
f
o -
Asia)
ast
E
Philadelphia
Boston,
in
some
located
already
have
and
from U.K.
textiles
fibre
of
examples
some
get
to
good
very
be
would
It
Angeles.
Los
and
well
as
collections
European
other
nd
a - k
Daya
as
described
be
may
hey
t -
Bahau,
Benuaq,
utei
K .
Borneo
from Eastern
or
Kutai),
(
collections
their
in
examples
any
are
there
if
check
to
institutions
am contacting
I
private
or
public
other
any
in
others
of
know
they
if
or
criteria,
above
my
fit
which
reque
then
I
identified,
are
these
Once
ollections.
c
photos
or
(preferably)
slides
of
copies
st
any
is
there
If
conferences.
textile
at
and
lectures
in
used
be
would
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them.
of
buying
in
interested
be
also
would
I
catalogues
published
in
photographs
or
information
hem.
t
will
project
this
that
is
hope
y
M
as
area,
the
of
textiles
the
of
awareness
raise
help
collections.
diverse
in
examples
valuable
or
rare
information about
collate
as
ell
w
have
and
Kalimantan,
East
Balikpatan,
in
living
been
have
I
years
five
last
the
For
inter
My
Jakarta.
to
moved
ecently
r
the
far
by
but
below,
given
is
address
mailing
national
by e
is
communication
form of
uickest
q - .
given)
(also
fax
or
ail
m
sincerely,
ours
Y
Oley
iz
L
Room
CRA Mail
T KEM,
P -
Australia
3000,
Melbourne,
St,
55Collins
30th Floor,
+62
hone/Fax:
P - e
1 7994269
2 - l
ai
m
d
oley@indo.net.i
:
XHIBITIONS
E
olours
C
f
o
Textiles
and
Costume
Indus:
he
t
f
o
n
Pakista
textile
coloured
brilliantly
and
exquisite
the
on
focusing
exhibition
ever
first
The
continues
Museum and
Albert
and
Victoria
the
at
opened
recently
has
Pakistan
of
traditions
will
day
present
the
to
1850s
from the
textiles
and
costumes
130
Over
1998.
March
29
until
Pak
of
creation
the
50th anniversary of
the
in celebration of
exhibited
e
b .
stan
i

3
1
deep
and
red
of
shades
vibrant
in
dresses
cotton
and
silk
woven
beautiful
From
in
rich
culture
a
illustrates
exhibition
the
thread,
gold
in
decorated
lavishly
coats
to
indigo,
in
turbans
hats,
embroidered
shoes,
of
Displays
colour.
of
love
and
traditions
textile
its
crafted
beautifully
and
adornments
animal
shawls,
woven
bags,
tobacco
silks,
sumptuous
Sin
Pakistan:
of
provinces
four
the
across
life
into
insight
an
provide
uilts
q
Baluchistan,
dh,
North
he
t - .
Punjab
the
and
Frontier
est
W
and
collections,
British
and
Japanese
from Pakistani,
work
of
loans
generous
With
collection,
own
A's
V.&
the
from
pieces
any
m
is
Indus
the
of
olours
C
a
as
conceived
from t
Indus
river
the
up
ourney
j
ranges.
mountain
northern
the
to
Karachi
at
Sea
Arabian
he
and
buttons
beads,
with
adorned
and
embroidery
ornate
with
decorated
garments
Folk
regional
of
wealth
a
reveal
to
costumes,
court
exotic
and
refined
alongside
seen
are
mirrors,
exhibiti
The
tyles.
s
to
Britain
in
place
taking
events
of
programme
a
of
part
is
on
India.
and
Pakistan
of
independence
the
ommemorate
c
osemary Crill
R
Curator
oint
J
joint
the
by
title,
same
the
under
exhibition,
the
accompany
to
published
book
A
Nas
urators,
c
traditions
textile
rich
the
explore
to
first
the
is
Crill,
Rosemary
and
Askari
reen
varied
its
with
associated
motifs
and
techniques
styles,
distinct
the
detailing
Pakistan,
of
significant
of
photographs
200
nearly
contains
It
groups.
specific
and
egions
r
of
examples
urban
and
mountain
desert,
in
taken
photographs
field
60
by
complemented
textiles,
the
in
specialized
has
Askari
Nasreen
use.
and
manufacture
their
showing
environments,
Culture
of
Department
the
to
adviser
an
been
has
and
Pakistan
of
extiles
t
Sindh
the
of
and
Indian
the
of
Curator
Deputy
is
Crill
Rosemary
decades.
two
nearly
for
Government
outh
S -
A.
V.&
the
of
Department
Asian
ast
E
the
that
announce
to
pleased
are
We
V.&
the
with
association
in
Holberton
(Merrell
ublishers
p
A
)
.
give
to
agreed
have
£26.95
i.e.,
edition,
hardback
the
10% on
of
discount
special
a
members
O.A.T.G.
opposed to £29.95.
as
and Eire)
in the U.K.
including postage and packing to addresses
(
An
Newsletter.
this
enclosed with
form is
rder
o
t
gallery
are
here
T
on
November
11
and
4
Tuesdays
on
2.30
at
exhibition
the
in
alks
21
and
7
Fridays
on
and
Askari,
Nasreen
by
given
Sindh,
of
textiles
and
costume
the
North
and
Punjab
the
of
textiles
and
costume
the
on
Crill
Rosemary
by
ovember
N -
West
spe
A
Province.
rontier
F
next
the
in
announced
be
will
members
OATG
for
tour
cial
ewsletter.
N
Exhibitions
ther
O
Plant
Conserving
Elements:
the
raving
B -
World
the
Around
from
Clothing
ibre
f -
snow and
from sun,
wearer
the
protect
to
designed
often
were
fibre
from plant
made
Clothes
r
same
the
to
vulnerable
are
themselves
garments
such
that
shows
exhibition
This
ain.
Rivers
Pitt
the
At
future.
the
for
preserved
be
can
they
how
demonstrates
and
elements
1998.
November
to
1997
from 22 November
Oxford,
useum,
M

14
P alms,
Pearls and Pinnacles: Traditional Women's Dress of the Arabian Peninsula -
this exhibition is continuing to tour Hampshire and is at present to be seen at the Westbury
M anor Museum, Fareham, until 1 December. There will be workshops on C olour, Textile
a nd
Stitch o n 19 and 21
November, separate sessions in the morning and afternoon of each
day. From 16 January to 17 February the exhibition will be at the Havant Museum, and will
l ater be on view at Basingstoke, Christchurch and Alton (dates next time).
M emor
ial Korean Display, in
memory of Lisa Bailey - a selection of new acquisitions,
including the patchwork jacket and trousers illustrated on page 1 of this newsletter, is on
d isplay at the V. & A. until January 1998.
Precious
Cargo: Trade Winds to Cathay - an exhibition celebrating three centuries
of trade between Scotland and China, especially Hong Kong, at the Royal Museum of
S cotland, Chambers Street, Edinburgh, until 4 January 1998. Free tours of the exhibition,
c onducted by Voluntary Guides, are held eac
h weekday at 11.30.
E xhibitions
Overseas
When
Silk was Gold - an exhibition of Central Asian and Chinese textiles at the
C leveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, Ohio, until 4 J anuary 1998.
Flowers
Underfoot: Indian Carpets of the Mughal Era - a t the Metropolitan
Museum,
N ew York, from 20
November 1997 to 1 March 1998. The 60 examples dating from the
late 16th to the 18th centuries include a beautiful early 18th century carpet on loan from the
A shmolean.
G limpses
L ast
Chance to See
of Kyoto Life, at the Pitt Rivers Museum, Oxford, closes on 1 November.
S triking Tents, a t the Museum of Mankind, closes at the end of the year.
Life
on the Move, at
the Horniman Museum, closes mid-
January 1998. On the third
S unday of each month there are free family sessions
exploring nomadic ways of life, 2.30-
3 .15 and
3.30-
4 .15 p .m.
c loses
T he Veil in Islam, a t St Mungo's Museum, Glasgow, closes on 31 January 1998.
Along
the Silk Route, at
the Abegg-
Stiftung Riggisberg (near Bern, Switzerland),
on 1 November.

15
L ECTURES AND EVENTS
Saturday
1 November, 11.15-
12.45
- Marianne Ellis will talk to the Textile Society
on Mamluk embroidery at the Ashmolean Museum and present items from the Museum's
c ollection. For further information contact Freda Ch
apman on 01248 683703.
Wednesday
31 December at 2.30 p.m. - I slamic Prayer Mats,
a gallery talk by
P atricia Baker at the V.& A.
Christopher Legge's Christmas Show will begin on 29 November and run through to
24 December. There will be hundreds of beautiful rugs, carpets, runners and cushions, all
priced
at less than £300. The shop will be open from 9.30-
5 on Mondays to Saturdays and
on
Sunday 30th only from 12- 4 . 25 Oakthorpe Road, Summertown, Oxford.
T el. 01865
557572.
P UBLICATIONS
Barnes,
Ruth: Indian
Block-
Printed Textiles in Egypt. The Newberry Collection in the
A shmolean Museum, Oxford. Oxford: Clarendon Press (1997), 2 volumes. Volume 1: 192
p p., 32 b&w ills., 43 colour pls., 3 maps, figs., bibl. Volume 2:
304 pp., 1226 b&w ills.
ISBN 0-19-951364- 3 . £ 290.00.
Unique in its variety, the Newberry Collection consists of Indian cotton textile
fragments of outstanding historical importance, and is the largest in the world of its kind.
They were exported to Egypt as part of the Indian Ocean textile trade; some date back to the
10th/11th century, while the majority was produced between the 13th and 15th century. The
p ublication is unfortunately extremely expensive, but includes description
and full illustration
of the collection, as well as a text volume discussing the production, function, and history
o f the textiles. It is likely to become a standard work of reference.
Brandon,
Reiko Mochinaga: B right and Daring: Japanese Kimono in the Ta
isho Mode, the
Oka Mobutaka Collection of the Suzaka Classic Museum, Honolulu, 1996. 88pp, 95 col.
& 6 b/w illus. Pb £20.
Eighty kimono from 1912- 55
discussed and illustrated in full colour.
F itzgibbon, Kate, and Hale, Andrew: I kat: Silks of Central Asia,
London 1997, 336 pp,
407 illus., 330 in colour, 36x30 cm, hb. £145
The results of 20 years combined research by the authors and their study of the
G oldman collection of Central Asian ikats.
H itchcock, Michael: Islam
and Identity in Eastern Indonesia. H ull:
The University of Hull
Press
(1996), 208pp, frontispiece, 2 maps, 38 b&w ills. ISBN 0-85958-646-
4. £11.95
( paper).
Although first of all a social anthropological study of the eastern Sumbawan society
o f Bima, there nevertheless is much of interest to textile
studies in this publication, as
weaving and the wearing of specific cloths were historically important to the court and
v illage culture of Bima. The publication is based on Michael Hitchcock's extensive field

16
work in Bima, in particular on his initial research in the early 1980's. At the time he also
brought together a comprehensive collection of Sumbawa textiles on behalf of the Pitt Rivers
M useum, as well as commissioned a loom which is now in the Museum.
J ack
son, Anne, J apanese Country Textiles, London 1997, 128 pp, 90 col. illus., 25x21 cm,
cloth,
slip- c ase, £25.
Covers design, techniques and social context of country textiles, taking examples from
t he V.& A's rich and varied collection. Many items have not p reviously been published.
Lindisfarne-
T apper, Nancy and Bruce Ingham (eds.): Languages of Dress in the Middle East.
London: Curzon Press (1997), 240pp, ills. ISBN 0 7007 0670 4 (cloth, £ 35.00) and 0 7007
671
2 (paper, £ 12.00).
A wide range of topics is addressed in this volume of papers, from veiling to dress
reform laws, and geographically extending from Malta to Iran. The approaches range from
s ocial anthropology to history and linguistics. The book is of interest to readers who
concern
t hemselves with dress, as well as Middle Eastern history and social sciences.
S iegelaub, Seth (ed.): B ibliographica Textilia Historiae. New York: International General
( 1997), 415 pp. ISBN 0-88477-038- 9 (cloth, £ 49.95) .
B ased on the library and archives of the Center for Social Research on Old Textiles
(CSROT), the publication of this bibliography was first announced three years ago. Now
finally out, it will be a useful tool for those who are beginning to feel their way around
s pecific subjects or the textiles of certain geographic areas. It is inevitable, though, that more
recent publications are not included, so that the bibliography can only be an introduction.
R egrettably one also finds quite a few standard works missing.
The
Textile Museum Journal
1995-
1996
(Vols. 34 and 35): Three of the four contributions
in this latest issue of the Journal are devoted to Asian textiles. It includes one article by
S tephanie Bunn ('Kyrgyz S hyrdak'), well known to us because of her lecture to OATG last
y ear and
her exhibition on Kyrgyz tent felts at the Museum of Mankind. The other two are
'Matrilineal Descent Groups and Weavings on the Island of Savu' by Geneviève Duggan, and
' Textiles and Textile Customs of the Tai Dam, Tai Daeng, and Their Neighbors in Northern
Laos' by Mattiebelle Gittinger, Karen Anderson Chungyampin, and Chanporn Saiyalard.
The Journal is sent to all members of the Textile Museum, but individual copies are also
a vailable from the Museum's shop: The Textile Museum, 2320 S Street NW, Washington,
D.C.
20008- 4088.
DEADLINE FOR THE NEXT ISSUE - 2 FEBRUARY 1998
P hyllis
Nye,
P lease send contributions to
Hewel Barn, Common Road, Beckley,
T el/Fax 01865 351607
Oxon,
OX3
9UR