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DIGITAL SOURCE COMPONENTS

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go to: Contents | On The Horizon | Feature | Disc Players | DACs | Music Servers & Accessories | Integrated Amps with USB DACs | Music Download Reviews | Buyer's Guide<br />

Turning a<br />

Mac Into a<br />

Music Server<br />

A Beginner’s Guide<br />

Steven Stone<br />

Setting up an Apple computer for audio is simpler than<br />

a Windows PC because Apple offers fewer options. But<br />

it’s still possible to end up with a system that doesn’t<br />

perform optimally. Often it’s a case of not getting the<br />

machine configured correctly. The following guide will<br />

hopefully get you to a reasonable starting point for<br />

your Mac computer audio odyssey.<br />

For me, the three most important aspects of a computer audio system are<br />

stability, reliability, and simplicity of operation. Sound quality comes after<br />

these three primary goals are met: ultimately it doesn’t matter how good your<br />

computer audio system can sound if you can’t get it to work.<br />

Given my priorities, the principal goal of this guide won’t be the best performance.<br />

(John Quick talks about this in a companion article found in The Absolute Sound<br />

issue 237). No, the goal here is to achieve a system that is going to deliver sound<br />

99.9% of the time without having to screw around. Even a naïve user should be<br />

able to use a computer audio system almost as easily as a CD player.<br />

Hardware<br />

Which Apple computer you choose for computer audio<br />

will depend on several factors, but principally budget<br />

and portability. Portable Macs, whether MacBook Pro<br />

or Air, make great audio computers, especially if you<br />

want one system that you can take with you. A Mac<br />

Mini is less expensive initially, but it does require an<br />

external monitor and keyboard for full functionality.<br />

An iMac is also a good option and the monitor is builtin.<br />

Some folks (like me) even use a MacPro desktop<br />

machine for audio duties.<br />

Nowadays, the Macs I see most often used for audio<br />

are the Mac Mini or a Mac portable. Mac Minis are the<br />

most popular “desktop” machine due to their size and<br />

price. Also a Mac Mini can be run “headless” after initial<br />

setup, without a monitor or keyboard via the “Remote”<br />

Smartphone app (a Mac portable can be used this way<br />

also, but the screen will remain active). Any Mac that<br />

supports the current or near-current operating system<br />

can be used for audio playback duties. Considerations<br />

such as whether you want portability are more easily<br />

quantifiable than whether one Mac model sounds<br />

better than another.<br />

Apple offers all its computers with different memory<br />

and hard-drive configurations. You can order a Mac<br />

directly from Apple exactly the way you want it or you<br />

can purchase a barebones configuration and add your<br />

own memory and storage later. OtherWorld Computing<br />

sells all the necessary parts as well as step-by-step<br />

instructional videos on its site for installing memory,<br />

solid-state drives, and auxiliary hard drives for nearly<br />

every model Mac.<br />

If you want to do an audio-only computer system,<br />

be aware that there are different levels of audioonly<br />

exclusivity. And there’s always a trade-off of<br />

ergonomics lost versus sonic benefits gained. Access<br />

to the Internet is not necessary to play back a music<br />

file, but it does allow for greater levels of operability,<br />

including access to Internet radio (which can be<br />

very good), streaming services, and GraceNote for<br />

identifying ripped CDs. But a system with Internet<br />

access means that more operations will be ongoing and<br />

some could have an effect on overall audio quality. The<br />

tweakiest and most obsessive sound-quality-first Mac<br />

setups tend to be isolated stand-alone systems without<br />

Internet access. PreSonus, in its guide to Mac OS use,<br />

recommends turning off the airport wireless service<br />

while using a Mac for audio. Obviously this drastically<br />

reduces functionality, sort of like supergluing your<br />

mouth closed to keep from occasionally drooling. Some<br />

Mac audio set-up guides also recommend turning off<br />

“Spotlight,” which is the file-searching utility. This is<br />

great until you need to find a file.<br />

There is no reason that a current-generation Mac<br />

needs to be gelded into a barebones operating system<br />

to perform optimally for audio. The Mac operating<br />

system and hardware were made for multitasking,<br />

and the Mac will be performing background processes<br />

while playing music even if it has been stripped-down.<br />

While I don’t recommend regularly running a bunch<br />

of high-demand processing and disc-access programs<br />

such as Photoshop while listening intently to music,<br />

the reasons for creating a stripped-down music-only<br />

Mac were far more relevant back in the days of the G5<br />

desktop than they are today.<br />

How much memory is optimal for audio Most users<br />

find that the right amount of memory is the same<br />

amount as for a full-service Mac. Nowadays, that’s 8<br />

Gigabytes. You can “get by” with 4 Gigs, but given the<br />

cost of memory, there’s no reason not to have 8GB.<br />

Adding more than 8 Gigs of memory won’t buy you<br />

any advantages, and the extra memory will generate<br />

more heat and use more power. Music playback doesn’t<br />

require very much in the way of processor and memory<br />

usage compared to apps such as Photoshop. I use a<br />

2006 MacPro desktop with 16GB of memory. Playing<br />

a 29-minute 96kHz/24 music file with Pure Music<br />

software used only 1025.4MB of real memory, 3.31<br />

12 Digital Source Components www.theabsolutesound.com<br />

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