explore hangzhou

explore hangzhou
Famously described by Marco
Polo as the most beautiful city in the world,
Hangzhou is one of China’s seven ancient capitals
Story and photos by Yuanchang Wang
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explore hangzhou
The scenic capital of Zhejiang province
is its nerve centre of politics, business,
culture, science and education.
Once the capital of the Southern Song
and Tang Dynasty, it was settled as early as
5,000 years ago, spawning the Neolithic jade
culture of Liangzhu.
The city’s privileged geographic location in
the southern part of the Yangtze River Delta,
at the western end of Hangzhou Bay, endows
Hangzhou with a romantic spirit and humid
climate that has given it designations like
“The Most Livable City” and “Garden City.” In
2011, Hangzhou was recommended by the
New York Times as a sublime getaway.
All the fanfare is hardly new. Hangzhou
has been getting rave reviews from travellers
as far back as the 13th century when Marco
Polo sung its praises in overblown operatic
terms: “Hangzhou is the most beautiful and
elegant city in the world.”
MOONCAKE FESTIVAL
Hangzhou is a scenic place to celebrate
the Mid-Autumn Festival, now the second
grandest festival on the Chinese calendar
and a national holiday since 2008. This year’s
holiday falls on September 30th, just before
the National Day break of October 1st–7th,
which means a total of eight days off for
voyageurs to hit the road.
Also known as the Mooncake Festival,
the lunar fest of September 30th is well
known for throngs of people carrying brightly
lit lanterns and fire dragon dances, for eating
mooncakes and matchmaking, for children
hoisting balloons emblazoned with the moon
rabbit and, in general, for having more lights
blazing than Vegas on a Saturday night.
The lakeside setting in Hangzhou will
make this most magical of nights a little
more enchanting.
Lake View
In China there is only one city whose lake has
been venerated and lauded for roughly 1,500
years: Hangzhou.
This metropolis of 6.7 million is famous
for its West Lake, which got its name because
it’s located west of the city, and spreads
out across the alluvial plain formed by the
Qiantang River.
The lake is the heart and kidney of
Hangzhou, boating the primary pastime.
Listen to the boatmen reciting poems and
time-honoured tales, like “Three Pools
Mirroring the Moon,” “Lingering Snow on
Broken Bridge,” “Orioles Singing in the
Willows,” and “Autumn Moon over a Calm
Lake,” for a voyage into classical folklore.
For a panoramic view of the lake, scale
the Leifeng Pagoda. At night check out
the Su and Bai Causeway or stroll along n
Xihu XinTiandi with posh shops and cool
restaurants, coffee kiosks and ice cream
parlours, in the trendy part of the city.
To get more into the aquatic spirit of
Hangzhou, head for the Xixi Wetland and the
Grand Canal.
SILK & SHRINES
Legends have been spun from the tapestry
of five millennia worth that is Hangzhou’s
contribution to the silk art and trade. During
the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD), the
weaving techniques reached their zenith
and Hangzhou was dubbed the “Capital of
Silk.” Boosted by its textile and silk industries,
Hangzhou has developed a strong garment
industry and is also known as the “city of
women’s wear”.
In the Silk Museum, visitors can buy
pure silk clothes, and in the backyard hall
watch the traditional handmade silk weaving
processes.
But that’s only the tip of the pagoda in
terms of museums. The Scissors Museum is
not a museum exactly, but a showroom for
the Zhang Xiaoquan Scissors Company, which
makes 80% of China’s scissors.
For anyone interested in pottery, the
excavated Southern Song Imperial Kiln is
a “dragon kiln” and a great place to potter
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explore hangzhou
around. Outside the neighbouring township
of Fuyang is a paper mill and printing shop
that produces hand-made paper and handbound
books and other publications.
Hangzhou is also home to many temples
and shrines. Among this illustrious number,
Lingyin Temple stands out. This complex is
the largest and always crowded. In particular,
the revered Buddha images carved into the
cliff side deserve appreciation.
Perched on a bluff above the Qiantang
River is the massive, red brick Liuhe Pagoda,
which can be ascended by a daunting
internal staircase.
STOCK UP ON SOUVENIRS
Longjing (Dragon Well) tea is considered the
finest green tea in China and cultivated in the
hilly regions around the West Lake. Longjing
and Meijiawu, two famous tea-producing
villages, are the places to pick a leaf from
Hangzhou’s tea culture, and enjoy a tasty cup.
Visitors can also pick up high-quality tea at
rock-bottom prices.
When shopping in Hangzhou one street
runs through the minds of souvenir hunters:
Qinghefang Historical Street, where they sell
loads of local products, like arts and crafts,
special snacks, jewelries and antiques. Its twin
thoroughfare, Southern Song Dynasty Imperial
Street, was renamed after an astounding
discovery in 2004 when ruins of that dynasty,
including an imperial street, a bridge ramp
and pier, part of a palace and its walls, were
unearthed.
These days, there is no arbiter of travel
taste like TripAdvisor. In the 2012 Travellers’
Choice awards, Hangzhou placed number
five on the top 10 list of Chinese destinations.
And that says it all.
LODGING
Hangzhou Friendly Hotel, a fourstar
hotel, located on Pinghai Road,
about 300 metres far away from
the West Lake, is a good choice for
accommodations. Sitting in the
rotating restaurant on the 20th floor
you can take a panoramic view of
the West Lake.
www.friendship-hotel.com.
FOOD
Waipojia, a chain restaurant serving
Hangzhou delicacies, has more
than 50 branches located in a dozen
Chinese cities. You can even order
online at www.waipojia.com.cn
TRAVEL INFO
Check the website of PATA members
the Hangzhou Tourism Commission,
an excellent resource for up-to-date
travel info: www.gotohz.com
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