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ECO<br />

<strong>Tourist</strong><br />

<strong>Guide</strong>-<strong>Book</strong><br />

First Edition


Published by <strong>Economic</strong> <strong>Cooperation</strong> <strong>Organization</strong> (ECO)<br />

Copyright © 2010 <strong>Economic</strong> <strong>Cooperation</strong> <strong>Organization</strong> (ECO)<br />

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED,<br />

STORED IN A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS,<br />

ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING OR OTHERWISE, WITHOUT<br />

PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE ECONOMIC COOPERATION ORGANIZATION<br />

(ECO).NOT FOR SALE<br />

The content of the ECO <strong>Tourist</strong> <strong>Guide</strong> <strong>Book</strong> has been provided / approved by ECO<br />

Member States. The views expressed in this book do not necessarily represent the views of<br />

ECO or its affiliates. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is<br />

as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. However, details such as telephone<br />

numbers, opening hours, travel information and etc. are liable to change. The publishers cannot<br />

accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book.<br />

Contributors<br />

Supervision & Finance: <strong>Economic</strong> <strong>Cooperation</strong> <strong>Organization</strong> (ECO)<br />

Coordination & Preparation: ECO Cultural Institute (ECI)<br />

Printing: Iran's Cultural Heritage, Handicrafts & Tourism<br />

<strong>Organization</strong> (ICHTO)<br />

Editor in Chief & Project Manager: Ali Sabzalian<br />

Assistant to Editor in Chief: Parisa Firouzkouhi<br />

Graphics & Design: Seyyed Kianoush Saadatmand, Arash Torabi<br />

Photos: ECI archive and other available sources<br />

Maps: Gitashenasi Geographic & Cartographic <strong>Organization</strong><br />

<strong>Economic</strong> <strong>Cooperation</strong> <strong>Organization</strong> (ECO)<br />

ECO Cultural Institute (ECI)<br />

Iran's Cultural Heritage, Handicrafts & Tourism <strong>Organization</strong> (ICHTO)


Foreword<br />

It is gratifying to see the “ECO <strong>Tourist</strong> <strong>Guide</strong> <strong>Book</strong>” finalized and<br />

published. It represents a landmark achievement for increasing awareness<br />

of tourism potentials within the ECO region and highlights the<br />

region as one the world’s richest in terms of historical and cultural<br />

heritage that launched several great civilizations and has influenced<br />

the course of the world history to this day.<br />

The region echoes memories of the ancient “Silk Road” in its<br />

numerous historical sites, spectacular nature, unique culture of hospitality<br />

and cultural affinity.<br />

Tourism, apart from being an important source of income, contributing<br />

to the development of service industries in the respective<br />

countries, also enhances regional and global understanding and cultural<br />

awareness and as a sector has received due attention by the<br />

ECO Member States and the Secretariat in the recent years. “ECO<br />

<strong>Tourist</strong> <strong>Guide</strong> <strong>Book</strong>” is yet a further step in this direction.<br />

ECO Secretariat, based on a proposal by ECO EGM on Tourism initiated<br />

consultations with ECO Cultural Institute for the preparation of<br />

a guide book on tourist attractions within the region. The efforts and<br />

collaboration of the two organizations in compiling material provided<br />

by Member States bore fruit in this colorful and informative presentation.<br />

I wish to express appreciation and thanks to the ECO staff and the<br />

ECO Cultural Institute for their efforts in the preparation of this publication<br />

as well as the Iran Cultural Heritage, Handicrafts, and Tourism<br />

<strong>Organization</strong> (ICHTO) for their contribution towards the publication<br />

of the guide book.<br />

M. Yahya Maroofi<br />

Secretary General<br />

<strong>Economic</strong> <strong>Cooperation</strong> <strong>Organization</strong>


We, in the ECO region, are very fortunate that apart from the bonds of faith,<br />

history and cultural heritage, we share so much in so many diverse fields. We<br />

have strong commonalties in arts and crafts, language and literature, prose and<br />

poetry. These are evident in many of our precious literature, ancient monuments<br />

and historical land-marks, which are living symbols of a shared history, of a common<br />

past, of a life interlinked and lived together.<br />

Every element of cultural heritage is precious and unique. Multiple layers of history<br />

and the passage of time have created our heritage. Product of the<br />

bygone days are not subject to renewal nor are they a part of our inexhaustible<br />

resources. Our heritage has the right to be passed on to the<br />

future generations and at the same time it should grow richer through the<br />

creations and testimonies of our own time.<br />

Research and studies by UN experts on tourism have shown that tourist guide<br />

books can play an important role in educating travelers to respect heritage through<br />

promoting their awareness toward these important matters.<br />

Addressing this vital issue, based on the proposal by the ECO Secretariat, the<br />

1st ECO HLEG Meeting on Tourism assigned the task of preparation of the content<br />

of the ECO <strong>Tourist</strong> <strong>Guide</strong> <strong>Book</strong> to ECO Cultural Institute (ECI).<br />

It is a matter of privilege and honor to see that the drafts of the ECO <strong>Tourist</strong><br />

<strong>Guide</strong> <strong>Book</strong> prepared by ECI, met with the unanimous approval of the 1st and<br />

2nd ECO Ministerial Meetings on Tourism held in Tehran and Antalya.<br />

Here, it deems necessary to express our sincere thanks and gratitude to ECO<br />

Secretariat and Member States for their valuable cooperation rendered towards<br />

the preparation of this unique publication.<br />

Last but not least, I wish to express my profound appreciation for the job<br />

accomplished by the ECI staff members, who have brought this project to fruition<br />

under often difficult circumstances.<br />

Finally, while ECI appreciates the valuable trust put on its shoulders by the<br />

esteemed Member States for the preparation of such an important book, it welcomes<br />

views and comments for the consideration of the next edition of this worthy<br />

publication.<br />

Hojatollah Ayoubi<br />

President<br />

ECO Cultural Institute


Content<br />

Introduction<br />

Country Profile<br />

Silk Road<br />

Useful Information<br />

Best Time to Visit the Country<br />

Visa Regulations<br />

Customs Regulations<br />

How to Get There & Away<br />

Getting Around<br />

Money<br />

Safety & Security<br />

ECO Embassies Telephone Numbers<br />

Health<br />

Telephone Codes of Major Cities<br />

Major Travel Agencies<br />

Arts & Crafts<br />

Decorative Arts<br />

Architecture & Archeological Objects<br />

Music & Musical Instruments<br />

Cinema & Theater<br />

Quranic Arts<br />

Ecotourism<br />

Top 10 Places to Visit<br />

5 Major Cities<br />

Places to See<br />

Places to Stay<br />

Where & What to Eat<br />

Where & What to Buy<br />

Etiquette- Do's & Don'ts<br />

Language Essentials


Color Code<br />

Islamic Republic of Afghanistan<br />

Republic of Azerbaijan<br />

Islamic Republic of Iran<br />

Republic of Kazakhstan<br />

Kyrgyz Republic<br />

Islamic Republic of Pakistan<br />

Republic of Tajikistan<br />

Republic of Turkey<br />

Turkmenistan<br />

Republic of Uzbekistan


Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Introduction<br />

8


Introduction<br />

Bordered by Pakistan in the south, by<br />

China to the east, by Iran to the west,<br />

and by Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and<br />

Uzbekistan to the north, Afghanistan<br />

stands at the crossroads of Asia.<br />

Throughout the country, the rugged<br />

Hindu Kush mountain range dominates<br />

the scenery.<br />

The current boundaries of<br />

Afghanistan were established in the late<br />

19th century as a<br />

result of British and<br />

Russian invasions. As<br />

the westernmost<br />

extension of the<br />

Himalayan,<br />

Karakorum, and<br />

Pamir mountain<br />

ranges, the Hindu<br />

Kush Mountains run<br />

southwesterly for<br />

about 1920 km<br />

before petering out<br />

in the province of<br />

Herat.<br />

For more than<br />

2000 years,<br />

Afghanistan has been<br />

the site of trade<br />

routes collectively known as the Silk<br />

Road, which lend to its importance as<br />

an historical link between eastern and<br />

western countries. The country's geographical<br />

proximity to the roots of early<br />

civilization endows the region with<br />

remains from the Indus Valley civilization<br />

of 2000 BC.<br />

When Alexander the Great entered<br />

ancient Afghan land in the country of<br />

Ariana, he found well established cities<br />

such as Herat and Kandahar before<br />

founding some of his own, such as Ai<br />

Khanoum on the Oxus, the current<br />

Amu Darya River. After the death of<br />

Alexander the Great, the Seleucid<br />

Empire – one of the successor states of<br />

the sprawling Macedonian Empire- centered<br />

the government on the Afghan<br />

city of Balkh, near modern Mazar-e<br />

Sharif. The Timurid and Mughal dynasties<br />

left their mark as well.<br />

Due to its service as an important<br />

center of learning and culture through<br />

various historical epochs, Balkh was<br />

soon coined as “Umm al Bilad” the<br />

mother of cities.<br />

In the second century BC, the largely<br />

Zoroastrian country of Afghanistan<br />

was introduced to<br />

the new religion of<br />

Buddhism.<br />

The mysterious<br />

Kushan Empire<br />

reigned during this<br />

period from the first<br />

to the third century<br />

BC from the capital<br />

near Kabul.<br />

Afghanistan<br />

became a pawn in<br />

the struggles over<br />

political ideology and<br />

commercial influence<br />

in the late 20th<br />

century and suffered<br />

the ruinous effects of<br />

an invasion by the Soviet Union in<br />

1979, the subsequent Soviet military<br />

presence in 1979-89, and a prolonged<br />

civil war in the 1990s.<br />

During recent years, increasing numbers<br />

of archaeological expeditions visited<br />

Afghanistan, unearthing artifacts of<br />

the country’s heritage, many of which<br />

the Kabul Museum houses. The Ghor<br />

province holds the world’s second<br />

tallest minaret, the 1957-discovered<br />

Minaret of Jam.<br />

Afghanistan’s position across ancient<br />

trade routes greatly influenced its history<br />

since it provided the path upon<br />

which its invaders settled.<br />

9


10<br />

Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Country Profile<br />

Country Profile<br />

Country's Official Name<br />

Islamic Republic of Afghanistan<br />

Flag Description<br />

Black at the hoist, Red<br />

in the middle with a centered<br />

white emblem that<br />

represents the<br />

Government, and Green at the edge; the emblem features<br />

a mosque with its mihrab facing Mecca encircled by a<br />

wreath on the left and the right and by a bold Islamic<br />

inscription above.<br />

Government Type<br />

Islamic Republic<br />

Legal System<br />

Based on mixed civil and Shari'a law; has not accepted compulsory ICJ jurisdiction.<br />

Useful Link<br />

Ministry of Information & Culture<br />

www.moic.gov.af (Enlglish)<br />

Executive Branch<br />

The executive branch of the Afghan government consists of a powerful and popularly<br />

elected President and two Vice Presidents.<br />

Cabinet:25 ministers; under the new constitution, ministers are appointed by the<br />

President and approved by the National Assembly.


Elections: President<br />

Hamid Karzai<br />

became the first<br />

democratically elected<br />

President of<br />

Afghanistan on<br />

December, 7, 2004.<br />

Since 2002, Hamid<br />

Karzai led as<br />

theChairman of the<br />

Transitional<br />

Administration and<br />

Interim President.<br />

The President and two Vice<br />

Presidents are elected by direct vote for<br />

a five-year term and are eligible for a<br />

second term; if no candidate receives<br />

50% or more of the vote in the first<br />

round of voting, the two candidates<br />

with the most votes will participate in a<br />

second round; a president can only be<br />

elected for two terms.<br />

Legislative Branch<br />

The bicameral National<br />

Assembly consists of the Wolesi<br />

Jirga or House of People<br />

with249 seats, which is<br />

directly elected for fiveyear<br />

terms, and the<br />

Meshrano Jirga or<br />

House of Elders with<br />

102 seats. Of the<br />

seats, one-third is<br />

elected from provincial<br />

councils for fouryear<br />

terms, one-third is<br />

elected from local district<br />

councils for three-year<br />

terms, and one-third is nominated<br />

by the president for fiveyear<br />

terms.<br />

Note: On rare occasions, the<br />

government may convene a Loya<br />

Jirga (Grand Council) on issues<br />

relating to independence,<br />

national sovereignty,<br />

and territorial<br />

integrity. It can<br />

amend the provisions<br />

of the constitution<br />

and prosecute the<br />

President. It is made<br />

up of members of<br />

the National<br />

Assembly and chairpersons<br />

of the<br />

provincial and district<br />

councils.<br />

The Human Rights Commission<br />

established by the Bonn Agreement is<br />

charged with investigating human rights<br />

abuses and war crimes.<br />

Judicial Branch<br />

The constitution establishes a ninemember<br />

Stera Mahkama or Supreme<br />

11


12<br />

Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Country Profile<br />

Court, in which its nine justices are appointed<br />

for 10-year terms by the President with<br />

the approval of the Wolesi Jirga, and subordinate<br />

High Courts and Appeals Courts.<br />

There is also a Minister of Justice. A separate<br />

Afghan Independent Human Rights<br />

Commission established by the Bonn<br />

Agreement is charged with investigating<br />

human rights abuses and war crimes.<br />

Official Languages and Local<br />

Dialects<br />

Pashto and Dari are Afghanistan’s official<br />

languages. Afghanistan’s Constitution stipulates<br />

that all other languages are “official” in<br />

the areas in which they are spoken by a<br />

majority of the population. Dari is spoken<br />

by more than one-third of the population and Pashto is spoken throughout Kabul<br />

and eastern and southern Afghanistan. Many Afghans are multi-lingual. Tajik and<br />

Turkic languages are spoken widely in the north. Local languages are Uzbeki,<br />

Nooristani, and Pashaei. Minor groups throughout the country also speak more<br />

than 70 other languages and numerous dialects.<br />

Capital City<br />

Kabul


Major Cities<br />

Kabul, Kandahar,<br />

Herat, Mazar-e-<br />

Sharif, Jalalabad<br />

Names of<br />

the Provinces<br />

1. Badakhshan, 2.<br />

Badghis, 3. Baghlan,<br />

4. Balkh, 5. Bamian,<br />

6. Daykundi 7.<br />

Farah, 8. Faryab, 9.<br />

Ghazni, 10. Ghowr,<br />

11. Helmand, 12.<br />

Herat, 13. Jowzjan, 14. Kabul, 15.<br />

Kandahar, 16. Kapisa, 17. Khowst, 18.<br />

Konar, 19. Kondoz, 20. Laghman, 21.<br />

Lowgar, 22. Nangarhar, 23. Nimruz, 24.<br />

Nooristan, 25. Oruzgan, 26. Paktia, 27.<br />

Paktika, 28. Panjshir, 29. Parvan, 30.<br />

Samangan, 31. Sare Pol, 32. Takhar, 33.<br />

Vardak, 34. Zabol<br />

Ethnic Groups<br />

The main ethnic groups are Pashton,<br />

Tajik, Hazara, Uzbek, Turkmen, Aimaq,<br />

Baluch, and Nooristani.<br />

Country's Total Area<br />

652,225 km2<br />

Population<br />

32,738,376 (July<br />

2008 est.)<br />

Climate<br />

Afghanistan experiences<br />

dry climate and<br />

four distinct seasons.<br />

Summers are hot with<br />

plenty of sunshine;<br />

during the spring,<br />

flowers bloom across<br />

the country; falls are<br />

mild; and winters are<br />

cold and snowy in<br />

most areas. Average<br />

rainfall is 250mm per<br />

year.<br />

Holidays and<br />

National Days<br />

Nowroz: (March<br />

21st) marks the first<br />

day of spring, the<br />

New Year Jashn (festival).<br />

Eid al-Fitr: The<br />

day marking the culmination<br />

of the<br />

month of fasting, Ramadan.<br />

Eid al-Adha: The 10th day of the<br />

12th month of the Hijri calendar, which<br />

commemorates Prophet Abraham’s<br />

devotion to Allah.<br />

Ashura: The 10th day of the month<br />

of Muharram is a day of mourning<br />

commemorating the martyrdom of<br />

Prophet Muhammad’s (PBUH) grandson,<br />

Imam Hussein, at the battle of<br />

Karbala.<br />

Mawlood al-Nabi: The 12th day of<br />

the month of Rabi al-Awwal of the Hijri<br />

calendar, which celebrates the<br />

Prophet’s birthday.<br />

Jashn-e-Esteghlal: Afghanistan’s<br />

Independence Day<br />

– August 19th.<br />

Time Zone<br />

GMT +4.30<br />

13


Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Silk Road<br />

14<br />

Silk Road<br />

Scientific research and archeological discoveries maintain that ancient<br />

Afghanistan was the primary center of civilization and culture in Central Asia and<br />

the fifth among the seven centers of world civilizations. Due to its geographical<br />

location as a connecting bridge between China, India, Mesopotamia, the Eastern<br />

Mediterranean coast, Egypt, Greece and Rome, Afghanistan played a vital role in<br />

the integration of the various civilizations for centuries. This led scholars and<br />

researchers to name the country, "The Crossroad of Civilizations and Cultures.”<br />

Archaeological remains sponsor Afghanistan’s 50,000 year old history, and artifacts<br />

attesting to its cultural and political history endorse the country’s 5,000 year<br />

old presence as a hub for the exchange of ideas and goods. During Afghanistan’s<br />

history, it experienced five periods of civilizations, the Vedic, the Avestan, the<br />

Greco-Bactrian, the Greco-Buddhist, and the Islamic.<br />

The most powerful empire throughout Afghanistan’s history, the Kushanid<br />

dynasty, ruled the country and a conquered parts of Asia from 40-220 AD.<br />

Kajula Kadific founded the dynasty and his son, Vema Kadific, ascended the<br />

throne after him and established ties with the Roman Empires’ Trojan court after<br />

conquering northern India. Through the newly tied relations, the Romans fulfilled<br />

their demands for Chinese silk and Indian spices at the international trade market<br />

of Balkh.<br />

The Kushan dynasty’s greatest ruler, Kanishka the Great, ruled from121-160 AD.<br />

He defeated the Parthians in the northwest,captured eastern Turkistan at the current<br />

location of China’s Sinkiang of China, and gained the famous cities of Kashgar,


Yarkand, and Khotan. With these victories,<br />

he established his rule and control<br />

over a great part of Asia<br />

including India,<br />

Kashgarstan, Central Asia,<br />

Afghanistan and Iran.<br />

Kanishka shifted his capital<br />

from Balkh in the north of<br />

the Hindu Kush to Kapisa,<br />

Begram, in the south of the<br />

Hindu Kush. Subsequently,<br />

Begram became the summer<br />

capital and Peshawar<br />

became the winter capital<br />

of his empire.<br />

During the 25-220 AD<br />

era, China’s Han dynasty,<br />

Central Asia’s Kushan<br />

dynasty, the Roman Empire,<br />

and the Persian Sassanid Empire<br />

enjoyed strong and secure trade relations.<br />

The Silk Road helped connect<br />

these civilizations, and the Ariana,<br />

ancient Afghanistan, civilization served<br />

as the main link between the close and<br />

distant cultures and civilizations. The<br />

Silk Road was the greatest and the most<br />

important continental highway between<br />

the second and the fifteenth centuries<br />

AD. The starting points of<br />

the highway were Xian,<br />

Loyang, and Beijing of<br />

China while the ending<br />

points were Ephesus and<br />

Miletus in Turkey.<br />

In the second century<br />

AD, the route was 11,000<br />

km long, and 35,000 twin<br />

humped Bactrian camels<br />

carried the commodities of<br />

different countries. Between<br />

every 24 km along the highway,<br />

a caravanserai was<br />

established for lodging and<br />

resting. It took the caravans<br />

about six months to travel<br />

between points and three months to<br />

reach Balkh.<br />

Balkh developed as the first center<br />

for the ancient Afghan civilization, and<br />

for thirteen centuries, the Silk Road<br />

linked together more than 364 cities,<br />

places, and sites of Asia.<br />

15


16<br />

Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Useful Information<br />

Useful Information<br />

The optimal time to visit the northern<br />

and eastern provinces of Afghanistan is<br />

during the Summer, and Spring’s New<br />

Year’s holiday draws vacationers to<br />

Mazar-e-Sharif for the Rose Festival,<br />

Jashn-e-Gol-e-Sorkh. The southern and<br />

western provinces are more enjoyable<br />

during the Spring.<br />

Visa Regulations<br />

Visitors to Afghanistan must render a<br />

valid passport, a passport copy, and<br />

three passport photos in order to complete<br />

the visa application form. Visas<br />

may be obtained at any of the Afghan<br />

consulates and embassies around the<br />

world. The basic tourism visa entitles a<br />

visitor to stay 30 days in Afghanistan. It<br />

is recommended that this one-month<br />

visa be obtained before visiting<br />

Afghanistan.<br />

Customs Regulations<br />

There is no customs duty on personal<br />

items. However, searches are done by<br />

the Ministry of Finance for prohibited<br />

and controlled exports and imports. For<br />

example, drugs and other illegal substances<br />

and objects are prohibited by<br />

law.<br />

How to Get There & Away<br />

By Road<br />

Travel to Afghanistan is possible<br />

through the highways that connect the<br />

main provinces to the neighboring<br />

countries and by taxi, bus, or a car with<br />

a legal permit. The possible paths are to<br />

Herat from Iran or Turkmenistan, to<br />

Kandahar from Pakistan, to Ningarhar<br />

from Pakistan, to Nimrooz from Iran or<br />

Pakistan, to Badakhshan from Tajikistan,<br />

and to Balkh from Uzbekistan.<br />

The most picturesque way to enter<br />

Afghanistan is through the Khyber Pass,<br />

starting at Peshawar in Pakistan. The<br />

drive through to Kabul via Jalalabad<br />

takes about eight hours. In Peshawar,<br />

one must obtain a police permit to<br />

enter the border area – a condition<br />

strictly enforced.<br />

An exciting yet arduous route is from<br />

Chitral over the 14,800-ft Dorah Pass.<br />

This three-day journey by group leads<br />

to Skarzer, a village close to the lapis<br />

lazuli mines of the Blue Mountain.<br />

Traders carrying lapis out of Afghanistan<br />

used the route for centuries. On the<br />

path, one can expect to see caravans of<br />

donkeys loaded with blue stone.<br />

The other main land route into<br />

Afghanistan involves crossing the Oxus<br />

from Termez in Uzbekistan, using the<br />

bridge that the invading Soviets named<br />

"Friendship Bridge". An Uzbek and an<br />

Afghan visa are suggested for crossing.<br />

Ministry of Finance<br />

Tel: +93(75)2004199<br />

Fax: +93 (20) 2103280<br />

E-Mail: Info@mof.gov.af<br />

By Air<br />

Ariana<br />

Ariana is Afghanistan's national airline<br />

and operates on domestic and international<br />

routes, including flights to


Ankara, Delhi, Dubai, Dushanbe,<br />

Islamabad, Istanbul, Urumqi, Tehran,<br />

Riyadh, Jeddah, Kuwait, Moscow and<br />

Frankfurt.<br />

Website: http://www.flyariana.com<br />

Kam Air<br />

Kam Air is Afghanistan's first private<br />

airline and flies between Kabul and<br />

Dubai daily, to Almaty on Mondays, to<br />

New Delhi on Mondays, Wednesdays<br />

and Fridays, to Mashhad on<br />

Wednesdays and to Istanbul on<br />

Fridays).<br />

Tel: +93 (20) 2200447<br />

Website: http://www.flykamair.com/<br />

Email: info@flykamair.com<br />

Air Arabia<br />

Air Arabia has direct flights from<br />

Sharja, UAE to Kabul. It flies between<br />

28 cities in the Middle East & South<br />

Asia.<br />

Website: http://www.airarabia.com<br />

Azerbaijani Airlines<br />

Azerbaijani Airlines flies from Baku to<br />

15 regional cities in Europe, Asia, and<br />

the Middle East. It flies every Monday<br />

and Wednesday from Baku to Kabul.<br />

Tel 1: +994 (12) 598-88-80<br />

Tel 2: +994 (12) 493-7121<br />

Fax: 994 (12) 437-40-87<br />

Website: http://www.azal.az<br />

Email: booking@azal.az<br />

PIA<br />

Pakistan International Airlines flies<br />

three times per week between<br />

Islamabad and Kabul.<br />

IA<br />

Indian Airlines operates four times<br />

per week from New Delhi.<br />

Pactec International<br />

The humanitarian organization flies<br />

individuals from Islamabad to Kabul<br />

once per week.<br />

Tel1: +93 (70) 260-203<br />

Tel2: +41 (0) 22 348 94 37<br />

Email1: airops-afg@pactec.net<br />

Email2:pactecinfo@pactec.net<br />

Afghan Airports<br />

http://afghanairlines.tripod.com/airports/airports.html<br />

Travelling Around<br />

By Land<br />

The Afghan Tourism <strong>Organization</strong><br />

offers travel advice for tourists, and the<br />

Millie Bus Company runs its 1960spopular<br />

travel service. The route<br />

through the Salang Tunnel reduces the<br />

driving time between Kabul and northern<br />

Afghanistan from 72 hours to 10<br />

hours. An international driver’s license<br />

is required of non-Afghan drivers.<br />

Urban residents commute by bus, taxi,<br />

and bicycle. In Kabul, there are more<br />

than forty thousand taxies, and fares are<br />

negotiated with the driver before<br />

boarding. Many buses operate within<br />

Kabul and its suburban areas as well. In<br />

the countryside, alternative sources of<br />

transportation are available, such as<br />

travel by foot, donkey, horse and<br />

camel. Minibuses depart from Begrami<br />

Motor Park on the outskirts of Kabul on<br />

the Jalalabad Road, which can be<br />

reached from Shahr-e-Nau by taxi for<br />

150 Afghani (Afn). The rides to<br />

Jalalabad cost 200 Afn and last three<br />

hours, and rides to the Pakistani border<br />

at Torkham cost 300 Afn and last four<br />

and a half hours.<br />

17


18<br />

Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Useful Information<br />

A few buses leave early in the morning<br />

from Pul-e-Mahmoud Khan, close<br />

to the Id Gah Mosque. All transportation<br />

arriving in Kabul from the east terminates<br />

at Begrami and is not allowed<br />

into central Kabul for security reasons.<br />

A quick way to reach the border is to<br />

hire a taxi for 2500 Afn.<br />

The transport heading north through<br />

the Salang Tunnel departs from Serai<br />

Shomali Transport Depot in the Khair<br />

Khana district on the edge of Kabul.<br />

From there, minibuses travel to Mazar-e<br />

Sharif in eight hours for500 Afn , to Pule<br />

Khumri in four hours for 200Afn, to<br />

Samangan in five hours for 300Afn, to<br />

Kunduz in ten hours for 400Afn, and to<br />

Faisabad in one and a half days for<br />

800Afn. Serai Shomali also provides<br />

transport to Istalif in 1½ hours for<br />

30Afn, to Paghman in 30 minutes for<br />

30Afn, and to Charikar in 30 minutes<br />

for 40Afn.<br />

Bamiyan can be reached via minibus<br />

from Kote Sangi,also called Pul-e-Socta,<br />

of west Kabul in nine to eleven hours<br />

for 400Afn,and it usually follows the<br />

southern route through the Hajigak and<br />

Unai Passes, for which security information<br />

is recommended.<br />

The prices and times given are for<br />

16-seater Hi-Ace minibuses. Smaller<br />

Town-Ace buses fill up and leave quicker<br />

and are more expensive. Shared taxis<br />

depart from the same terminal are<br />

faster and cost up to a third more, yet<br />

seats cannot be arranged in advance. It<br />

is recommended to arrive early<br />

The distances between Kabul and<br />

major cities and tourist centers are as<br />

follows: 1,050 km to Herat, 260 km to<br />

Bamiyan, 490 km to Balkh, and 150<br />

km to Ningarhar.<br />

By Air<br />

Internal flights link the country's<br />

major cities, and travelers who can provide<br />

accreditation from NGOs can use<br />

Pactec Air services. For tickets arranged<br />

with Kam Air or Ariana , the flight<br />

coupons are issued the day before the<br />

flight. Kam Air flies to Herat daily and<br />

Faisabad twice a week. Ariana Airlines<br />

has flights to Herat, Mazar-e-Sharif,<br />

Faisabad, Kandahar, and Jalalabad.<br />

Money<br />

Currency unit<br />

Afghani (Afn)<br />

The different denomination currency<br />

notes are: 10, 20, 50, 100, 500, and<br />

1000 Afghani, and the different valued<br />

coins are 1, 2, and 5 Afghani. Credit<br />

cards are available, and money transfer<br />

is accessible with banks.<br />

Banks<br />

Afghanistan’s Central Bank has<br />

licensed twelve commercial banks to<br />

date. Seven of the banks are fullfledged<br />

commercial banks and the<br />

remaining five are branches of foreign<br />

banks.<br />

Afghan-American Trading Company<br />

The official representative of the U.S.<br />

Central Bank offers free transfers of<br />

funds from the United States to<br />

Afghanistan.<br />

Tel: (212) 594-6744<br />

Email: aatc1943@hotmail.com<br />

Afghanistan International Bank<br />

(AIB)<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Kabul<br />

Tel: +93 (70) 220-883<br />

Email: inayatullah.fazli@aib.af


Shahr-e-Naw, Haji Yaqoob Square,<br />

Shahabudin Watt,<br />

P.O. Box No. 2070, Kabul<br />

Tel: +93 (0) 20 255 0 255<br />

Email: info@aib.af<br />

Arian Bank<br />

Shahr-e Nau<br />

Tel: +93 (79) 420-420<br />

Mr. Atarodi, Manager 0093 (0)20 –<br />

220 – 3994<br />

Email: cm-kabul@arian-bank.com.af,<br />

info-kabul@arian-bank.com.af<br />

Azizi Bank<br />

Malik Asghar Square, next to the<br />

Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Kabul<br />

Tel: +93 (0) 799-129-999<br />

Email: info@azizibank.com<br />

Website: www.azizibank.com<br />

Main Road, Kabul<br />

Zambaq Square, Opposite Turkish<br />

Embassy<br />

+93 799 700 900<br />

Email: customercare@azizbank.com<br />

Bank Melli Afghan<br />

Close to Kabul Serena<br />

Tel: +93 (20) 210-1804<br />

Habib Bank<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Kabul<br />

Tel: +93 (79) 572-754<br />

Email: blklcm@hotmatil.com<br />

Kabul Bank<br />

10-42, Torbazkhan, Sharer Nau,<br />

Kabul<br />

Tel1: +93 (70) 285-285<br />

Tel2: 0700 222666<br />

National Bank of Pakistan<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Kabul<br />

Tel: +93 (79) 021-710 +93<br />

0799312301<br />

Email: nbpkl@neda.af nbpkbl@hotmail.com<br />

Website: www.nbp.com.pk<br />

Punjab National Bank<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Kabul<br />

Tel1: +93 (70) 237-847<br />

Tel2: +93 (20) 2301774<br />

Email: pnbkabul@gmail.com<br />

Standard Chartered Bank<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Kabul<br />

Tel1: +93 (79) 320-874<br />

Tel2: +93 (79) 900 7777<br />

Western Union<br />

Western Union is available for cash<br />

transfer at three locations in Kabul:<br />

A.K Rashidzada Corporation<br />

Building 296, Street #13<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan<br />

Tel: +93 (79) 325-777<br />

Electronic Transfer Services<br />

92 Sarai Shahzada<br />

Tel: +93 (79) 325-777<br />

Electronic Transfer Services<br />

Char Rahi Ansari North Western<br />

Corner (Next to Dunya Travel Services)<br />

Tel: +93 (79) 325-777<br />

Website: www.westernunion.com<br />

19


20<br />

Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Useful Information<br />

Safety and Security<br />

Police and emergency telephone<br />

numbers are 100 and 119.<br />

It is not permissible to enter forbidden<br />

areas. In many other areas security<br />

guards are in service.<br />

Security information and recommendations<br />

can be obtained from Afghan<br />

Tour and Afghanistan Tourism<br />

<strong>Organization</strong> (ATO) in Kabul.<br />

The following two government organizations<br />

are the official tourism bodies<br />

in the country:<br />

Afghan Tourism <strong>Organization</strong> (ATO)<br />

P.O. Box 281 Kabul, Afghanistan<br />

Tel1: 0093-020-2300338<br />

Tel2: 93 799470172<br />

Ministry of Information, Culture<br />

& Tourism<br />

Mohammad Jan Khan Watt, adjacent to<br />

Spinzer Hotel, Kabul<br />

www.moic.gov.af<br />

Embassy telephone numbers<br />

Embassy of I.R. Iran<br />

Solh Ave, Gharar Rah Shir Pour, Kabul<br />

Tel: (+93 - 20) 2101392<br />

Email: iranembkabul@mfa.gov.ir<br />

Embassy of Rep. Kazakhstan<br />

H# 11, 1st Alley, Indira Gandhi St,<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Kabul<br />

Tel1: (+93-20)-2101452<br />

Tel2: (+93 – 20) 2300960<br />

Email: kazembaf@multinet<br />

Embassy of the I.R. Pakistan<br />

H# 10, Najat Watt, Wazir Akbar<br />

Khan, Kabul<br />

Tel: (+93-20) 2300911<br />

Email: pakemkbl@yahoo.com<br />

Embassy of Rep. Tajikistan<br />

H# 41, St. 15, Wazir Akbar Khan,<br />

Kabul<br />

Tel1: (+93-20)-2101080<br />

Tel2: (+93-20) 300392<br />

Email: kabultj@tojikiston.com<br />

Embassy of Rep. Turkey<br />

134, Shah Mahmoud Ghazi Watt,<br />

Kabul<br />

Tel: (+98-20)-2101581<br />

Email: kabil.be@mfa.gov.tr<br />

Embassy of Turkmenistan<br />

H# 280, Lane 3, St. 13, Wazir<br />

Akbar Khan, Kabul<br />

Tel1: (+93-20)-2300541<br />

Tel2: (+93-20) 2302550<br />

Email: tmembkabul@gmail.com<br />

Embassy of Rep. Uzbekistan<br />

Kartae-3, Khwaja Mulla Watt, Kabul<br />

Tel: (+93-20)- 2500431<br />

Email: mirnodir@hotmail.com


Health<br />

Medication is inexpensive and readily<br />

available without a prescription in<br />

Kabul. The high passes of Badakhshan<br />

can cause altitude sickness, for whichdoctors<br />

prescribe acetalzolamide to be<br />

taken to help acclimatization.<br />

Dexamethasone is recommended for<br />

acute edema, which is caused by the<br />

most severe form of altitude sickness. A<br />

person suffering from altitude sickness<br />

should be transferred to a lower altitude<br />

as soon as possible, regardless of<br />

drug ingestion. Oral rehydration salts<br />

are recommended to counteract the<br />

dehydration from the climate and diarrhea.<br />

Telephone Codes of Major<br />

Cities<br />

Country Code +93<br />

Kabul 20<br />

Kandahar 30<br />

Herat 40<br />

Balkh 50<br />

Nangarhar 60<br />

Major Travel Agencies<br />

Anaar Travel Agencies<br />

opposite Indian Embassy<br />

Interior Ministry Road.<br />

Shahre Nau, Kabul.<br />

Tel: +93 (79) 308-303, 309-713<br />

Email: contact@anaartravels.com<br />

Website: www.anaartravels.com<br />

The Great Game Travel Company<br />

Afghanistan<br />

PO Box 361, Central Post Office,<br />

Kabul<br />

Tel: +93 (799) 489-120<br />

Email: Kabul@greatgametravel.com<br />

Website:<br />

http://www.greatgametravel.com<br />

Park Tourism Services<br />

Park residence Building, Ansari<br />

Aquare,<br />

P.O. Box 5459, Shahr-e-Nau, Kabul<br />

Tel: +93-20- 2200459,<br />

Fax1: +873-761-270292873<br />

Website: http://www.tours@park<br />

tourism.com<br />

Afghan Travel Center<br />

1 Mohammad Jaankhan Watt, Kabul<br />

Tel: +93 - 79388901<br />

21


22<br />

Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Arts & Crafts<br />

Arts & Crafts<br />

Decorative Arts<br />

Afghanistan has an historic background in the field of decorative<br />

art. Stonework art was common during the Greco-<br />

Bactrian period,2,200 years ago, and later technological<br />

advances led to its machine-based production. Wood<br />

carving and jewelry art are prevalent in Afghan art<br />

and have roots to the Nooristan region.A celebrated<br />

example is the collection of the remaining jewels<br />

from Tela Tapa that date back to 2,000 years..<br />

Ceramic and monumental paintings are also celebrated<br />

art forms that are demonstrated through<br />

ancient minarets and buildings, the Herat Blue<br />

Mosque, calligraphy, book binding, textile, and<br />

glassware, which has origins to second century AD<br />

Begram. Glassware art later flourished during the<br />

Timurid Empire in the city of Herat, where glasswaremaking<br />

workshops are a popular tourist attraction.<br />

Leather work can be found in Kabul with its many<br />

leather-goods shops, embroidered work is popular in<br />

Kandahar province, which specializes in embroidered<br />

clothes, and Afghanistan’s rug and carpet<br />

weaving date back to the fifth century<br />

AD.<br />

Precious Gems & Stones<br />

Afghanistan's rugged Hindu Kush mountain range and<br />

the region's fierce indigenous inhabitants, the Chitral and<br />

Nooristani Kafir, contribute dual-enigmatic and foreboding<br />

elements that create a natural fortress of defense for the<br />

landscape’s treasure-trove of underexploited minerals. The<br />

rough countryside is home to a wide range of precious gemstones,<br />

such as aquamarine, emerald, garnet, kunzite,<br />

lapis lazuli, ruby, sapphire, tourmaline,<br />

turquoise, and zircon.<br />

Lapis Lazuli<br />

Gemstone mining in Afghanistan dates<br />

back 6,500 years to the gem mines of its<br />

northeastern region in the Badakhshan<br />

province and the Panjshir, “Five Lions,” valley.<br />

The Kokcha valley’s Sar-e-Sang mines<br />

produced lapis lazuli, one of the first gems<br />

to be extracted from the region and widely<br />

regarded as the world's premier source in


terms of quantity and quality value.<br />

Its name derives from the Latin<br />

word “lapis,” meaning stone<br />

and the Persian word “lazhward,”<br />

meaning blue. It is<br />

used to make beads and<br />

boxes and is popularly<br />

used for men's jewelry.<br />

It is mined in Blue<br />

Mountain on the right<br />

bank of the Kokcha River.<br />

The mines sit at over 11,000<br />

feet on the mountain, and<br />

because of the cold temperatures,<br />

they are worked in<br />

between June and September.<br />

Ruby<br />

The ruby, the “king of precious<br />

stones,” is mined in Kabul province’s<br />

Jegdalek-Gandamak, which contains<br />

rubies ranging from nearly colorless to<br />

a deep red, and often purplish.<br />

The Jegdalek mines have been home<br />

to ruby, as well as sapphire mining in<br />

Afghanistan for over seven hundred<br />

years and are located in a remote and<br />

inaccessible region, 100 kilometers east<br />

of Kabul and south of Jalalabad.<br />

Of the production in the mines, 75%<br />

is in the form of pink to violet-pink sapphire,<br />

rubies account for 15%, and blue<br />

sapphire is responsible for 10%. Much<br />

of the region's gem production is transported<br />

through the<br />

Khyber Pass to dealers<br />

in Peshawar,<br />

Pakistan.<br />

Emerald<br />

A precious form<br />

of beryl is found in<br />

the Parwan<br />

province’s Panjshir<br />

valley, which based<br />

its wealth on silver<br />

during the Middle<br />

Ages and craters caused by Soviet<br />

bombing.<br />

A precious form of beryl is<br />

found in the Panjshir valley of<br />

the Parwan province. The<br />

valley based its wealth on silver<br />

during the Middle Ages<br />

and turned to emerald in the<br />

late 20th century after it was<br />

discovered in the craters caused<br />

by Soviet bombing.<br />

According to local history, a young<br />

shepherd found the deposits in the<br />

early 1970s, although Pliny's<br />

Natural History states that “smaragus,”<br />

which means green stones,<br />

were found in the region in the first<br />

century AD.<br />

Housing<br />

and Wood<br />

Carving<br />

Outside the<br />

cities, Afghan<br />

housing continues<br />

in the<br />

form of traditional<br />

dwellings fabricated<br />

according to<br />

their regional variation made from<br />

stone, wood, unbaked clay, or mud<br />

with straw plaster.<br />

In the rugged<br />

mountainous regions,<br />

such houses are built<br />

in tiers, with the roof<br />

of one house forming<br />

the yard of another,<br />

in order to conserve<br />

the flat, fertile river<br />

valley land for farming.<br />

The inner courtyards<br />

of these houses<br />

provide an outside<br />

space and view with<br />

23


24<br />

Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Arts & Crafts<br />

maximum privacy and are frequently<br />

decorated with handcarved<br />

walnut wood eaves and<br />

panels.<br />

Hand-carved doors and window<br />

frames and wall and ceiling<br />

plaster incised and painted<br />

with flowers, pictures, or<br />

depictions of daily life may be<br />

found in many areas.<br />

In Kabul, such decorative<br />

wood carving is done by professionals<br />

and by few apprentices<br />

and is at risk of dying out.<br />

The Aga Khan Foundation (AKF) commissioned some instrument makers to do<br />

domestic architecture restoration work.<br />

More on Arts & Crafts<br />

Artistic activity in Afghanistan can be traced back to early 1800 BC. In the<br />

Islamic era, the Ghaznavid rulers of the 10th – 12th centuries and the Ghorids<br />

of the 12th – 13th centuries fostered artistic development. Continuing through<br />

the Timurid dynasty, Afghanistan’s cultural life prospered through the rulers’ high<br />

regard for artists and learning. The descendants of Timur turned the city of<br />

Herat into a center of cultural activity, enticing artists such as Abdul Rahman<br />

Jami, Abdulhay, and Kamal-uddin Bihzad to create finely illustrated books and<br />

exquisite buildings.<br />

One of the most famous local arts is the Gandhara art of the 1st - 7th centuries,<br />

which is based on Greco-Buddhist art. Since the 1900s, Afghanistan began to use<br />

Western techniques in art, and while the country’s art was originally done by men<br />

only, recently in theater arts, women have begun to take center stage.<br />

National art is largely centered at the Kabul Museum. Other well known art<br />

forms in Afghanistan are music, poetry, and the centuries-old carpet-making.<br />

Calligraphy<br />

In the absence of figural motifs,<br />

calligraphy became the most important<br />

element of decoration next to<br />

the geometrical ornamentation and<br />

used various techniques and styles.<br />

The angular, geometric Kufic script,<br />

which is named after the Iraqi city of Kufa, was well suited for monumental patterns<br />

and large, long surfaces.<br />

The early austere Kufic developed into more decorative floral, foliated and plaited<br />

varieties. An angular version developed in Herat, became known as Herati<br />

Kufic. The first cursive scripts used in manuscripts also made their appearance in<br />

architecture, and their main types were the naskhi and the thulth.<br />

Timur, also known as Tamerlane, the founder of the Timurid dynasty who con-


quered most of the old Sassanid<br />

Empire, India and Central Asia, had a<br />

high regard for men of learning, artists<br />

and artisans. He<br />

encouraged many<br />

such men in the<br />

conquered lands<br />

and dispatched<br />

them to his capital<br />

in Samarkand,<br />

where he had elegant buildings erected.<br />

After Timur's death in 1405, his son,<br />

Shahrukh inherited most of the land of<br />

Persia and set up his capital in Herat,<br />

which , became the greatest center of<br />

cultural activity for the arts, literature,<br />

and architecture during the 100-year<br />

Timurid rule.<br />

His sons were major patrons of the<br />

fine arts in Herat, Fars, and Samarkand,<br />

and he appointed Baysunghur to the<br />

governorship of Herat, where his son<br />

established an important atelier for the<br />

production of finely illustrated books<br />

and art works for buildings.<br />

He gathered the best artists and calligraphers<br />

in his atelier, called<br />

Kitabkhana, and employed 200 artists,<br />

including 40 master calligraphers. A<br />

report by the head of<br />

the Kitabkhana, Ja'far<br />

Tabrizi, dating back<br />

to around 1433, is<br />

indicative of the atelier's<br />

activities: book<br />

production and<br />

designs for decorating<br />

tents, saddles,<br />

and buildings. The<br />

illustrated books produced<br />

by this atelier<br />

rank were among the<br />

finest and include the<br />

famous Shahnameh,<br />

known as Baysunghur<br />

Shahnameh, which<br />

was completed in 1430.<br />

The books were worked on by the<br />

famous artists Abdulhay, Mir Khalili and<br />

Pir Ahmad, who<br />

were sent to<br />

Samarkand by<br />

Timur. Baysunghur<br />

further attracted<br />

other master artists<br />

to his atelier in<br />

Herat; the books produced there are<br />

kept in various libraries and museums<br />

in Iran, Turkey, Europe, and America.<br />

Art of <strong>Book</strong> and Miniature<br />

Painting<br />

In the late 15th century, under the<br />

long and stable rule of Sultan Husayn<br />

Bayqara, arts and culture flourished further<br />

and Herat became a renowned<br />

center of excellence. Many famous<br />

artists, literati, builders, and musicians<br />

flocked to the city.<br />

The sultan and his able Vizir, Amir Ali<br />

Shir, generously patronized these men,<br />

and in the last quarter of the 15th century,<br />

many able painters, including<br />

Kamale-Din Bihzad, the greatest master<br />

of Persian painting, were active in the<br />

production of superb illustrated books.<br />

In the cultural atmosphere<br />

of Herat,<br />

Bihzad flourished as<br />

both a superbly talented<br />

painter and a<br />

master of spiritual<br />

learning.<br />

He went beyond<br />

the visual appeal of<br />

painting to the deeper<br />

meaning of<br />

reflecting the text<br />

that he was illustrating,<br />

and thus,<br />

achieved a particular<br />

mastery in depicting<br />

spiritual or Sufi nar-<br />

25


26<br />

Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Arts & Crafts<br />

ratives.<br />

Supreme in his design, coloring,<br />

and fineness of brushwork,<br />

Bihzad gave a dynamic<br />

and naturalistic touch to his<br />

paintings, which are unique in<br />

Islamic painting. He produced<br />

a renowned illustrated versions<br />

of Nizami's Khamse, “the<br />

Quintet,” and of some legendary<br />

classical Persian literature,<br />

such as Amir Khosrau<br />

Dehlavi's Hasht Bihisht, “Eight<br />

Paradises.”<br />

Monumental Painting<br />

The 11th century-arrival of glaze introduced color coating for building surfaces.<br />

Glaze was made of cobalt, sulphur, arsenic, and various metal oxides. At first,<br />

glazed bricks were used for inscriptions and epigraphic friezes to decorate the<br />

mihrab niche and entrance gate, and from the 14th century onwards, the use of<br />

color became wide spread.<br />

The first colors were white, turquoise and blue. The 15th century buildings, such<br />

as the Green Mosque in Balkh and the Shrine of Gazargah and the Mausoleum of<br />

Gawhar Shad in Herat, mark the peak of this technique. Rare cases of wall painting<br />

were found in the form of frescoes in the palace of Ashkari Bazaar. Wall painting<br />

became more frequent after the 17th century and was used in parts of Gazargah<br />

and Takht-i-Pul. They employed a wide range of ornamental motifs that divide into<br />

two categories, geometrical and floral/ vegetal. Also, some Chinese motifs, such as<br />

clouds and dragons – can be found on wall paintings.<br />

Ceramics<br />

Ceramic production in Afghanistan followed<br />

the traditions of neighboring Central<br />

Asian lands, the Iranian plateau, and the<br />

Indus valley. Traces of prehistoric pottery<br />

were found in Mundigak, a crossroads of<br />

trade routs near Kandahar.<br />

Some earthen wares, goblets, and<br />

beakers depicting geometric or animal decoration<br />

in black or brown on a lighter<br />

ground recall the early ceramics of Quetta<br />

and Kulliin, Pakistan as well as those of<br />

Susa in the 3rd millennium BC. South of<br />

the upper Oxus valley, the Greco-Bactrian<br />

site of Ai Khanoum of the late 4th century<br />

- 145 BC produced numerous shards that<br />

were gathered into three main groups: Persian wares of the Achaemenian period,


which carry white and red slip decoration<br />

and some New Greek shapes of<br />

fish dishes and craters;<br />

wares of Greece and Asia Minor,<br />

which have a dark grey body and a<br />

black slip for small and large ewers,<br />

dishes, and bowls; and a third group, in<br />

which new and large dishes have a<br />

black or white slip and ewers have handles<br />

decorated with a female head.<br />

The use of glaze<br />

appeared with the 10th<br />

century-arrival of the<br />

Islamic period, when<br />

slip-painting and sgraffito<br />

techniques began to<br />

enhance dishes, bowls,<br />

and pourers. The motifs<br />

ranged from complex<br />

squares and "s" shapes<br />

to pseudo-Kufic lines.<br />

As done in neighboring<br />

lands since the12th century,<br />

monuments were<br />

enhanced by glazed<br />

brick decoration.<br />

A famous example of<br />

the ornamentation done<br />

in turquoise stands high<br />

on the minaret of Jam,<br />

which was erected in<br />

1193-94. During the<br />

rule of the Timurids in<br />

the 15th century, a<br />

series of monuments<br />

were erected in Herat,<br />

such as the tomb of Musalla of Gawhar<br />

Shad, the forceful wife of Shahrukh.<br />

The tomb’s outer walls are covered in<br />

the bannai technique, in which white,<br />

blue, turquoise, and black glazed bricks<br />

are geometrically patterned within plain<br />

bricks.<br />

In the village of Istalif near Kabul, the<br />

folk potters produced attractive yet<br />

haphazard turquoise glazed wares,<br />

which attracted visitors in between<br />

wartime and included four-legged<br />

beasts, farm animals, figurines, bowls,<br />

and dishes.<br />

Rugs & Carpets<br />

Afghanistan’s leading producers of<br />

carpets and rugs are the Turkomans.<br />

Although they are sedentary people,<br />

they were originally nomads, herding<br />

flocks of sheep and goats across the<br />

rolling steppes of<br />

Central Asia, and they<br />

lived in yurts, circular<br />

domed tents seen from<br />

outer Mongolia to the<br />

Caspian Sea.<br />

In this self-sufficient<br />

and ovine-based economy,<br />

wool was and is<br />

used extensively.<br />

Besides carpets and<br />

rugs, the Turkomans<br />

produced countless<br />

items made from wool<br />

for yurt furnishings and<br />

daily domestic needs.<br />

This was done because<br />

of wood and metals’<br />

transportation and<br />

acquirement difficulties<br />

and the materials’<br />

inflexibility.<br />

In yurts, the specially<br />

woven Purdah carpet,<br />

which is recognizable<br />

by its cross design<br />

that divides it into four different panels,<br />

hangs from the upper corners and<br />

acts as an entrance door. Having no<br />

furniture, the nomads stored their<br />

clothes and household possessions in<br />

special, handmade woven and knotted<br />

bags.<br />

The Turkoman carpet designs are<br />

reputable for being woven entirely from<br />

memory; graph paper patterns are used<br />

when resuscitating old designs or weav-<br />

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Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Arts & Crafts<br />

ing new or unfamiliar designs. Originally, the patterns and designs used would very<br />

clearly signify the tribe and clan that wove the carpet.<br />

The width of the carpet being woven determines the number of weavers needed.<br />

A carpet starts and ends in a band of flat weave called the Kilim. In its various<br />

versions, the Kilim displays a design, is made up of lateral bands of color, is embroidered,<br />

or is dyed.<br />

The vast majority of Turkoman weavers are women and<br />

girls though among the Turkomans, and especially among<br />

the Uzbeks, there is an increasing number of boys and<br />

youth who are learning this craft. They are usually<br />

unmarried, since the responsibilities of marriage force<br />

them to abandon this means of livelihood.<br />

Afghan Embroidery<br />

Afghanistan is a land of harsh steppes and<br />

mountain valleys crisscrossed by irrigation channels<br />

sparkling in the sun. In this arid landscape<br />

the embroideries of Afghan women glow with<br />

bright exotic flowers. Afghanistan’s embroidery is<br />

done by women and young girls in the privacy of their homes as they decorate fabrics<br />

with threads of gold, silver, silk, and wool.<br />

Literature<br />

Folklore and legends told in the form of songs are a centuries-old tradition in<br />

Afghanistan. The system developed a rich literary tradition and continues to thrive.<br />

During the medieval period, literature was written in Dari, Pashto, Turkic, and<br />

Arabic. The royal courts of the regional empires, such as of the Samanids, the<br />

Ghaznavids, the Timurids, and the Mughals, were great patrons of Persian literature<br />

and supported the literary geniuses like Rumi, Khaje, Abdullah Ansari, and<br />

Jami.<br />

Mawlana Jalal-uddin Muhammad Balkhi, also known as Rumi, is considered the<br />

greatest Afghan poet of the Persian Dari language and his works are studied<br />

throughout the world. Khushal Khan Khatak was a Pashtun warrior, poet, and tribal<br />

chief of the Khattak tribe, who wrote his poems in Pashto during the reign of the


Mughal emperors in the 7th century.<br />

He advised Afghans to forsake their<br />

divisive tendencies and to unite.<br />

Architecture &<br />

Archaeological Objects<br />

The region has<br />

made major contributions<br />

to world<br />

architecture.<br />

UNESCO has<br />

acknowledged<br />

Afghanistan's role by<br />

declaring the Minaret<br />

of Jam as a World<br />

Heritage Site along<br />

with the Valley of<br />

Bamiyan for its<br />

famous statues of the<br />

Buddha that the<br />

Taliban destroyed in<br />

2001. Other examples<br />

of significant<br />

contributions to<br />

architecture may be<br />

found in Herat,<br />

Mazar-e-Sharif, and Ghazni.<br />

Some of the most famous monuments<br />

of Islamic architecture are to be<br />

found in Afghanistan, and the country’s<br />

oldest surviving Islamic model is the 9th<br />

century-mosque of Noh Gumbad,<br />

“Nine Domes,” near the town of Balkh.<br />

The Noh<br />

Gumbad<br />

belongs to the<br />

transitional<br />

period of<br />

medieval<br />

architecture<br />

when pre-<br />

Islamic traditions<br />

began to<br />

mix with<br />

emerging new<br />

features, foreshadowing<br />

a new architectural style that<br />

later dominated the country during the<br />

10th - 12th centuries. Also near Balkh,<br />

there stands the 15th - 16th centurybuilt<br />

Shrine of Khoja Abu Nasr, called<br />

the Green Mosque. It is characterized<br />

by a large iwan flanked by two truncated<br />

minarets, and<br />

behind it, there is an<br />

octagonal building<br />

with a ribbed dome<br />

on a high drum.<br />

In the south of the<br />

country, there<br />

remain the ruins of<br />

the city of Bost, also<br />

called Lashkargah,<br />

and of the palaces of<br />

Lashkari Bazaar date,<br />

which date from the<br />

10th - 11th century.<br />

The group consists of<br />

three palaces with<br />

courtyards, gardens,<br />

and auxiliary structures<br />

inside a walled<br />

enclosure, and the<br />

monuments in Ghazni date to the same<br />

period. They consist of two monumental<br />

towers and the tomb of Sultan<br />

Mahmud, which is a marble-faced sarcophagus<br />

decorated with superb calligraphy<br />

in Kufic and Naskhi. The towers<br />

are star-shaped with intricate designs of<br />

monochrome<br />

small bricks<br />

and carved terracotta,<br />

and<br />

they were originally<br />

taller, but<br />

the top circular<br />

parts no longer<br />

exist . The larger,<br />

Masud III<br />

tower dates to<br />

between 1099<br />

and 1114, and<br />

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Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Arts & Crafts<br />

the smaller one of Bahramshah, dates back to the middle of the 12th century.<br />

The 16th century mausoleum of Sultan Abdul Razzak is a plain brick structure<br />

with semi-circular corner towers and four iwans with high pishtaq walls.<br />

The Minaret of Jam of the12th century lies in the desolate mountainous region of<br />

Ghor. With a height of 65 meters, it is the second tallest minaret in the Islamic<br />

world.<br />

In the Valley of Bamiyan, the fortress of<br />

Shahr-i-Zohak was originally a pre-Islamic<br />

castle built during the 6th - 7th century<br />

and rebuilt in the 11th - 12th century. The<br />

old city of Bamiyan, the ruins of which are<br />

known as the Shahr-i-Gholgola, “City of<br />

Murmurs,” was built in the 11th century<br />

and later destroyed, like the Shahr-i-<br />

Zohak, by the Mongols of Genghis Khan.<br />

In the west of the country and most<br />

exposed to Iranian influence, is the city of<br />

Herat, where some of the most outstanding<br />

monuments can be found. The Friday<br />

Mosque depicts 14th - 15th century<br />

design and bears the marks of various<br />

reconstructions and earlier origins, some<br />

of which date back to the beginning of<br />

the Islamic era. It emulates a traditional<br />

Iranian four-iwan mosque. The mausoleum ascribed to Queen Gawhar Shad is<br />

yet another fine example of late-Islamic - medieval architecture.<br />

Situated to north of the city of Herat, the Shrine of Khoja Abdullah Ansari, also<br />

known as Gazargah, “the Bleaching Ground,” remains as one of the most complex<br />

and interesting sites in the Islamic world.<br />

An important place of pilgrimage, the Shrine of Hazrat Ali in the city of Mazare-Sharif<br />

was built in the late 15th century, before decadence set in, was rebuilt<br />

and restored several times, and shows strong Indian influences in its architecture.<br />

East of Balkh, the mosque of Takht-i-Pul has three domed halls with well-preserved<br />

decoration painting on the inside, and it exhibits a mixture of traditional<br />

Indian and Islamic styles.<br />

Housing<br />

Most traditional houses in<br />

Afghanistan are made of a<br />

series of rooms located around<br />

a private rectangular courtyard,<br />

where women cook and<br />

socialize and children play.<br />

Married sons share their parents'<br />

house and have separate<br />

quarters.<br />

Some Afghan houses contain


a special room exclusively for<br />

men’s socializing.<br />

In the cities, many Afghans<br />

live in apartments. There are<br />

many new modern designed<br />

houses available in all the<br />

major cities of the country.<br />

The nomadic population of<br />

Afghanistan lives in large tents<br />

as they are constantly on the<br />

move.<br />

Archaeology<br />

Due to the advantageous<br />

location at the heart of Central Asia,<br />

Afghanistan is a major source<br />

of archaeological attraction.<br />

During the past fifty years,<br />

an increasing number of<br />

archaeological expeditions<br />

have visited Afghanistan,<br />

contributing rich and varied<br />

discoveries to the country’s<br />

cultural heritage. Many of<br />

the artifacts are displayed at<br />

the Kabul Museum. Many of<br />

the major archaeological<br />

sites identified in the country<br />

are as follows:<br />

Tepe Fullol<br />

The ancient Afghan site’s treasures<br />

were discovered in 1966, lifting the<br />

veil of an era hitherto unknown. Its<br />

vast ensemble covers Afghanistan,<br />

eastern Iran, and Turkmenistan during<br />

the Bronze Age, around 2,000 BC.<br />

The discovery presented a new civilization<br />

between the Indus Civilization<br />

and Mesopotamia marked by its<br />

bronze seals; its composite statues of<br />

goddesses in abstract silhouettes; its<br />

gold and silver cups decorated with<br />

animals set in landscapes; and its<br />

troupe of strange creatures, bearded<br />

bulls, and geometric motifs, sounding<br />

a distant echo of the Quetta ceramics.<br />

After the digs at Mundigak,<br />

near Kandahar in the south,<br />

which had revealed the Helman<br />

Civilization of the Bronze Age,<br />

Fullol was discovered in the<br />

north. The newer site revealed a<br />

particular culture that explained<br />

the dynamism of the Indus<br />

Civilization, and the later excavations<br />

at Shortughai demonstrated<br />

that the newly discovered culture<br />

and the Indus civilization had had<br />

contact with each other. This culture<br />

is also linked to Sumer and<br />

Ur, or Mohandjodaro, through its control<br />

of the lapis lazuli sources<br />

in Badakhshan. To the south<br />

of the town of Baghlan,<br />

another discovery revealed a<br />

trading network between the<br />

Near East, Central Asia,<br />

Afghanistan, and the Indus<br />

Valley.<br />

Ai Khanoum<br />

A major site in the middle-Oxus<br />

valley is the Greek<br />

city of Ai Khanoum, about a<br />

day's journey by car from Tolaqon. It is<br />

the only<br />

Greek city to<br />

have been<br />

excavated in<br />

Central Asia,<br />

and is speculated<br />

to be<br />

Alexandria-<br />

Oxania, one<br />

of Alexander<br />

the Great's<br />

foundations. A<br />

link between<br />

the Thessalian<br />

origin of<br />

Kineas, after<br />

whom the<br />

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Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Arts & Crafts<br />

hero shrine of Heroön was dedicated, and the stationing of Alexander’s Thessalian<br />

cavalry serve as the evidence.<br />

Balkh (Bactra)<br />

A mythical town and home to the marriage<br />

of Alexander and Roxanne in 327 BC, Bactra,<br />

or Balkh, was admired by the classical<br />

authors, the Chinese, the Arabs, and the<br />

Persians as, "Balkh the Beautiful, Balkh the<br />

Mother of all towns,” before it was pillaged by<br />

Genghis Khan in 1220. At Tepe Zargaran near<br />

Balkh, the discoveries of Hellenistic architectural<br />

features in 2004 led to the uncovering of an<br />

accumulation of architectural blocks about 7<br />

meters below ground.<br />

Many of them originated from demolished Greek<br />

buildings and some were the remains of a fortress. Under the ramparts from the<br />

Kushan period, an enclosure wall from the Greek period stands and a stupa established<br />

by the king Mega Soter, Vima Takto, in the mid-1st century BC, remains as<br />

the oldest Bactrian Buddhist monument. In the Balkh citadel, excavations find<br />

remains dating to the Achaemenid period of the 6th - 4th centuries BC.<br />

Tilla Tepe<br />

The Tilla Tepe site is also known as the "golden hill" and is located near<br />

Shebergan in northern Afghanistan. In 1978, the digs on an Iron Age citadel in the<br />

site) led to the unearthing of six luxurious barbarian tombs. They held five women<br />

and one man and their bodies appeared dressed in clothes sewn with gold and<br />

encrusted with turquoise, garnet and lapis lazuli. Alongside these were classical<br />

intaglios showing Athena's profile and an<br />

ivory comb decorated with incisions in the<br />

style found at the Dalverzine Tepe in<br />

Begram.<br />

Crowned with fragile flora that alludes to<br />

the Three Kingdoms of Korea of the 1st -<br />

7th centuries, the Bactrian Aphrodite has a<br />

childish charm which evokes the city of<br />

Sirkap and the Scytho-Parthian period.<br />

These objects are the echo of a nomadic<br />

society, in which luxury and refinement<br />

went hand-in-hand with tolerance for and<br />

curiosity about unknown cultures.<br />

Through the war-ridden years, the<br />

authorities of the Kabul Museum preserved<br />

the Bactrian Hoard of 20,000 Gold Pieces,<br />

which were put on public display in 1991


and then locked in the vaults of the<br />

National Bank within the Presidential<br />

Palace<br />

grounds.<br />

The Tilla<br />

Tepe hoard is<br />

unique due to<br />

the high artistry<br />

of the objects,<br />

and because it<br />

sheds light on<br />

the shadowy<br />

transitional<br />

period<br />

between the<br />

collapse of the<br />

Bactrians in the last years of the BC era<br />

and the rise of the nomadic Kushans<br />

during the early years of the common<br />

era.<br />

Begram<br />

On the site of the ancient Alexandria<br />

of the Caucasus, digs carried out by a<br />

French expedition in 1937 and 1939<br />

revealed two walled chambers filled<br />

with artifacts from the Mediterranean,<br />

China, and the Indian sub-continent.<br />

This was called “the Begram Treasure.”<br />

Gandhara Sites in Bamiyan<br />

Bamiyan, which means "the place of<br />

shining light,"<br />

holds Buddhist<br />

cave temples<br />

from several<br />

different periods.<br />

It is located<br />

on the<br />

ancient border<br />

between the<br />

12th and 17th<br />

tax collection<br />

districts of<br />

Darius I’s<br />

Achaemenid empire.<br />

It is unclear when Buddhism was first<br />

practiced in<br />

Bamiyan, but<br />

it quietly<br />

began to root<br />

itself in the<br />

north and<br />

south of the<br />

Hindu Kush<br />

during the<br />

Kushan<br />

dynasty. From<br />

the second to<br />

the fourth centuries<br />

AD,<br />

many Buddhist temples were established<br />

in the area.<br />

In antiquity, central Afghanistan was<br />

strategically<br />

positioned to<br />

thrive from<br />

the Silk Road<br />

caravans.<br />

Camel caravans<br />

crisscrossed<br />

the<br />

region as they<br />

traded<br />

between the<br />

Roman<br />

Empire,<br />

China, and<br />

India, and as they journeyed through<br />

the Hindu<br />

Kush<br />

Mountains,<br />

they came<br />

upon<br />

Bamiyan, one<br />

of the wonders<br />

of the<br />

ancient world.<br />

As the heart<br />

of the<br />

Kingdom of<br />

Kushan,<br />

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Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Arts & Crafts<br />

Bamiyan held two colossal Buddha statues, which its ancient people carved into<br />

the mountainous cliffs of the valley. The larger statue stood at 53 meters (125 feet)<br />

above the town of Bamiyan and is considered by many as the most remarkable<br />

representation of the Buddha throughout the world. Its neighboring statue stood at<br />

38-meters, and both were painted in gold and other colors and decked in dazzling<br />

ornaments.<br />

There were countless rich frescoes depicting the life of the Buddha in the ancient<br />

town of Bamiyan, which with ten cliff-embedded monasteries, was a place of pilgrimage.<br />

In the northern Hindu Kush, the Buddhist archaeological sites closest to<br />

Bamiyan are the cave temples of Surkh Kotal of the 3rd - 4th centuries and Haibak<br />

of the 4th to 5th centuries.<br />

To the south of the Hindu Kush, monasteries flourished at Kapisa-Begram,<br />

Shotorak, and Paitava during the 2nd - 4th centuries, and Buddhist temples were<br />

established at Tepe Maranjan in the 4th - 5th centuries in Kabul. The center of<br />

Bamiyan's cultural legacy was formed by the two colossal Buddha images carved at<br />

the eastern and western ends of a high cliff facing the central valley in addition to a<br />

thousand caves cut into the cliff face and decorated with a rich variety of murals.<br />

The Buddhist religious art of Bamiyan, which enjoyed a renaissance after the collapse<br />

of the earlier Gandharan culture, was a unique synthesis appropriate to an<br />

area that was called a cultural crossroads. The two colossal Buddhas, which were<br />

admired by the Chinese scholar-monk Xuan Zang, were constructed from the 5th -<br />

6th century and based on the grand conception of the Buddhist cosmology. The<br />

east colossal Buddha is the Sakya Muni Buddha, and the west colossal Buddha is<br />

the Maitreya.<br />

Music & Musical Instruments<br />

Afghanistan’s traditional music is expressed through three outlets: the art<br />

music specific to Kabul, Herat, Mazar-e-Sharif, and Kandahar; the modern genres<br />

of popular music on the radio; and a plethora of regional folk music – styles<br />

and characteristics of the various ethnic groups inhabiting the different parts of<br />

the country.<br />

The music of Afghanistan is connected to the music of India and other Central<br />

Asian countries, though Iranian influence is also evident.<br />

The diversity of peoples including Tajiks, Pashtons, and Uzbeks has given<br />

Afghan music a rich musical heritage. In some ways, Afghanistan is a microcosm<br />

of a variety of Islamic Asia’s music, the classical pieces of Transoxiana (modernday<br />

Uzbekistan and Tajikistan), the love and spiritual poetry of India and<br />

Pakistan, the folk music of Turkmenistan, and a host of other styles from other<br />

cultures.<br />

Whether at a home, a teahouse, a horse race, or a wedding, the same instruments<br />

dominate Afghan music. Along with the Dutar and the Zirbaghali, there<br />

are variations of the fiddle (Ghichak), the flute (Badakhshani), and cymbals.<br />

The Rubab, a lute-like instrument, is sometimes considered the national instrument<br />

of Afghanistan and is called the lion of instruments.<br />

Uzbeks and Tajiks share a preference for the Dambura, which is a long-necked,


plucked lute.<br />

At home, women often play the<br />

Daireh, a drum. Singing is also an<br />

important part of Afghan music..<br />

Afghan folk music is traditionally<br />

played at weddings, holidays such as<br />

the New Year celebration, and<br />

rarely for mourning. Wedding<br />

music plays a vital part in<br />

Afghan folk music. The<br />

Jat, nomadic people<br />

who are related to the<br />

Gypsies, sell instruments<br />

door-to-door and play their own<br />

variety of folk music. The<br />

Jats frequently play for<br />

weddings and other<br />

events. Afghan songs<br />

are typically about<br />

love, incorporate symbols like the<br />

nightingale and rose, and refer to<br />

folklore like the story of Leyla<br />

and Majnoon.<br />

The classical form of<br />

music in Afghanistan is<br />

called Klassic, which<br />

includes both instrumental (rags, naghmeh)<br />

and vocal (ghazals) forms. Many<br />

Ustads (teachers) or professional musicians<br />

descend from Indian artists who<br />

immigrated to the royal court of Kabul<br />

in the 1860s.<br />

Radio broadcasting was introduced<br />

to Afghanistan in 1940 and fostered the<br />

growth of popular music. Popular modern<br />

Afghan music used orchestras featuring<br />

both Afghan and Indian instruments<br />

as well as European clarinets,<br />

guitars, and violins. In<br />

1951, Parwin<br />

became the first<br />

Afghan woman to<br />

broadcast on Radio Afghanistan<br />

while Ahmad Zahir, Mahwash,<br />

and Biltun found large audiences.<br />

Due to the civil unrest since the<br />

1980’s, Afghanistan’s<br />

music was suppressed<br />

and recording for<br />

outsiders was minimal.<br />

During the 1990s,<br />

the Taliban government<br />

banned instrumental<br />

music and creation of<br />

music for the public.<br />

Many musicians and<br />

singers continued to practice<br />

their trade in other countries.<br />

Pakistani cities such as Peshawar,<br />

Karachi, and Islamabad are important<br />

centers for the distribution of Afghan<br />

music.<br />

Kabul is the region’s cultural capital,<br />

and outsiders have tended to focus on<br />

the city of Herat, which is more closely<br />

related to Iranian music. Across the<br />

country, lyrics are both in Pashto and<br />

Persian languages. Also, Hindi songs<br />

from Bollywood films are popular in<br />

Afghanistan.<br />

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Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Map of Afghanistan<br />

36


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Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Ecotourism<br />

Ecotourism<br />

Trekking<br />

The country’s natural beauty and majestic<br />

mountains provide an arena for trekkers and<br />

fans of outdoor.<br />

The remote and beautiful Badakhshan<br />

province’s capital at Faisabad is the starting<br />

point for trips to Lake Shiva and the Blue<br />

Mountain, which, as the ancient world’s<br />

major source of lapis lazuli, is considered<br />

the jewel in the crown of Afghanistan.<br />

Badakhshan contains the following destinations<br />

for a traveler:<br />

1- Faisabad, the base camp for all travelers<br />

in the region<br />

3- Sar-e-Sang (The Blue Mountain)<br />

4- Lake Shiva<br />

5- The Wakhan Corridor, Great Pamir, and Small Pamir<br />

To get to Sar-e-Sang, drive to Jurm and follow the Kokcha River upstream for three<br />

hours. From Faisabad, it is a one-day journey. Lake Shiva is one of the sources for the<br />

Oxus. There is a Chaikhana, “tea house,” from which the road leads to a lake with<br />

camping area.<br />

There is also a five-day trek to Lake Chaqmartin, which lies between Buzai Gumbad<br />

and the Yuli Pass (4,872 m) that leads to China; from Buzai Gumbad to the lake is<br />

approximately 15 km (10 miles). The Yuli Pass is also near the glacier that is considered<br />

to be the icy sources of the Oxus. It takes three days to return to Buzai Gunbad from<br />

the glacier.<br />

Travelling in Small Pamir<br />

The Small Pamir is a self-contained ecosystem, a mountain area cut through deeply<br />

by the Waghjir River. To the South, there lie the Karakoram Mountains and the<br />

Pakistani areas of Gilgit and Hunza; the famous Khunjerab Pass on the Karakoram<br />

highway into China lies about 50 km west of the Yuli Pass (4,872 m), the easternmost<br />

extension of this area.<br />

The region contains peaks with heights of 6,500 - 7,000 meters, and the highest<br />

peaks occur along the Afghan Chinese border at over 6,500 meters. The Small Pamir is<br />

separated from Syr Kul and the Great Pamir by a wilderness of peaks and lakes.<br />

The journey starts at Qala Panj, and traveling by horse and with a guide is advised at<br />

Boroghil. It is a 3-day ride from Boroghil-Sarhad to Buzai Gumbad, where there are a<br />

number of camps.<br />

The first Kyrgyz camps are at Ak Jilga (“White Mare”), and the others are named as<br />

follows: Kotali-Dalriz Pass, Baharak, Sang-i-Neveshta (“Inscribed Stone”), Garbin<br />

Warm, Aveliz, Kyrchun, Ak Jilga (“Mountain Camo”), and Buzai Gumbad/Waghjir<br />

Valley.<br />

From Buzai Gumbad, the Waghjir Valley travels eastwards to the Chinese border at


Yuli Pass via Birgitikho, which are the<br />

Kyrgyz winter quarters.<br />

It is recommended to expect five days<br />

for reaching the Yuli Pass.<br />

Eight or nine days can be expected for<br />

reaching China from Buzai Gumbad on<br />

horse back. From Buzai Gumbad, the<br />

main Wakhan Valley runs to Lake<br />

Chaqmartin via a series of campsites<br />

named Cheshmeh Arkhar, Hawz-i-<br />

Chaqmartin, and Mynarah.<br />

Mountaineering<br />

Many people see Wakhan of<br />

Badakhshan as a region for mountaineering.<br />

The mountain of Nowshakh<br />

is 7,495 meters high, and its round-trip<br />

climb takes 7 days.<br />

Baba Tangi is 6,421 meters high and<br />

is situated between Qila Panj and<br />

Borghil, next to Salang in the north. It is<br />

often snowy and is pleasant during the<br />

Summer time. The temperature there is<br />

10-15 degrees<br />

Centigrade and animals<br />

can be found<br />

living in the area.<br />

Similarly, located<br />

in northwestern<br />

Kabul, Panjshir’s<br />

beautiful sceneries<br />

and high mountains<br />

can be used for<br />

mountaineering.<br />

Outside the<br />

Wakhan proper, in<br />

the Jurm Valley, the<br />

Dari Sahir stands 6,428 meters, and<br />

provides an opportunity for mountaineering.<br />

Band-E-Amir National Park<br />

Band-e-Amir, located in the<br />

Yawkawlang district of Bamiyan, lies 75<br />

km from the center of Bamiyan. It comprises<br />

of six dams, and the Zulfeqar<br />

covers an area of 490 hectares as the<br />

largest. Band-e-Amir is a naturally created<br />

group of five lakes with special geological<br />

formations and structures. Also<br />

known as Amir Dam, it is located high<br />

in the Hindu Kush Mountains with six<br />

streams of deep blue, clear water.<br />

The Islamic Republic of<br />

Afghanistan has a plan to propose<br />

it as a national park of<br />

the country.<br />

From east to west, the dams<br />

are the Zulfeqar, Podina, Panir,<br />

Haibat, Qambar, and Gulaman.<br />

After the Zulfeqar Dam, the Haibat<br />

Dam is the second largest, comprising<br />

an area of 90 hectares. The Qambar<br />

Dam is now dry.<br />

Forests<br />

Afghanistan has many natural forests<br />

such as the Nooristan, Paktia, and<br />

Paktika. The forests on the bank of<br />

rivers reflect a beautiful panorama, yet<br />

some of them were<br />

destroyed by erosion<br />

and smuggling.<br />

Preservation efforts<br />

are aided by the government.<br />

Ski (Arghandi<br />

Square)<br />

About 30 years<br />

ago in the west of<br />

Kabul, the Arghandi<br />

Square was the<br />

home for skiing to<br />

Afghans and foreign visitors. This area<br />

and the country’s north and south<br />

region’s provided the ski facilities.<br />

Naver Plain<br />

One of the country’s most attractive<br />

natural parks, the Naver Plain in Ghazni<br />

contains an area of 100 sq m and<br />

attracts several species of birds during<br />

the summer time.<br />

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Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Top 10 PLaces to Visit<br />

Top 10 Places to Visit<br />

Babur’s Gardens,<br />

Kabul<br />

According to Afghan folklore,<br />

“everything comes to<br />

Kabul,” and in a continuation<br />

of its heritage, capital<br />

city serves as the central<br />

marketplace for all of<br />

Afghanistan. Although technological<br />

change rapidly<br />

changed Kabul, the bazaars<br />

and other landmarks of the<br />

old city remain the center of life. Kabul has a rich history and inherits<br />

many historical sites like Babur’s Gardens.<br />

Formatted by Babur, the founder of the Mughal dynasty of the mid-16th<br />

century, the gardens include his tomb, a summer pavilion added by Amir<br />

Abdur-Rahman, and a commemorative mosque built by Emperor Shah<br />

Jahan. Before Babur’s death in Agra in 1530, he asked to be buried in the<br />

gardens, a wish that was fulfilled by his Afghan wife Bibi Mobraka. It was<br />

later rebuilt with the help of the international community.<br />

Shrine of Khwaja abu Nasr<br />

Parsa, Balkh<br />

Situated in the center of Balkh’s Central<br />

Park, the shrine was built in the memory of<br />

the distinguished theologian, Khwaja Parsa,<br />

who taught at the Herat College, which was<br />

established by Firuza Begum, the mother of<br />

Sultan Husain Baiqara.<br />

It was also where the Timurid ladies of<br />

Herat vied with the men in their patronage<br />

of arts and learning.<br />

Khwaja Parsa settled in Balkh, where he<br />

died in 1460. Built in the late Timurid style,<br />

the shrine’s blue dome, fluted and resting<br />

on stalactite corbels 25 meters (80 ft) high, stands above a colorfully tiled octagonal<br />

base. Corkscrew pillars flank the portal. The Archaeological Survey of India assisted<br />

in the preservation of the deteriorating façade and dome in June 1947.


Qali Ikhtiarudin, Herat<br />

The Qali Ikhtiarudin fort in Herat<br />

was originally built<br />

by Alexander the<br />

Great and suffered<br />

repeated attacks over<br />

its history. Held by<br />

the Ghaznavid, the<br />

Seljuk’s, the Ghorids,<br />

the Mongols, the<br />

Timurids, the<br />

Safavids, and others,<br />

the citadel is a<br />

reminder of the time<br />

of kings and foreign<br />

conquerors. The<br />

great pageantry of<br />

Qali Ikhtiarudin was<br />

repaired with the<br />

cooperation of the<br />

international community<br />

in 2008.<br />

Kherqa Sheriff Ziart,<br />

Kandahar<br />

The shrine and<br />

adjoining mausoleum<br />

require a 20 Afn<br />

entrance fee. The<br />

interior is not open<br />

to public photography,<br />

which is occasionally<br />

prohibited.<br />

The shrine of the<br />

cloak of Prophet<br />

Mohammad (PBUH)<br />

adjoins Ahmad Shah<br />

Durrani's mausoleum,<br />

one of the<br />

most popular holy<br />

shrines in<br />

Afghanistan.<br />

Ahmad Shah received the Prophet's<br />

cloak from Muradbeg Amir of Bokhara<br />

in 1768 as part of a treaty that settled<br />

the northern boundaries. The building<br />

of this relic displays modest elements<br />

and sparkling tile decoration.<br />

The shrine was<br />

repaired, and the<br />

entire exterior surface<br />

was embellished<br />

during the<br />

reign of Amir<br />

Habibullah while<br />

Mohammad<br />

Usman Khan was<br />

the governor of<br />

Kandahar. In 1908,<br />

delicate green<br />

Lashkar Gah marble<br />

paneled the<br />

foundations, tiles<br />

from the workshops<br />

of the master<br />

tile-maker Nek<br />

Mohammad covered the walls, and<br />

Sufi A. Hamidin’s gildings and<br />

paintings coated the arches. A<br />

splendid new door was inlaid with<br />

lapis lazuli by Shah Maqsudi<br />

Travertine, and<br />

cashed silver inlaid<br />

with gold was<br />

installed in 1974.<br />

The birthplace<br />

of modern<br />

Afghanistan,<br />

Kandahar, is a<br />

thriving commercial<br />

and industrial<br />

center. With<br />

exception to Share<br />

Nau, “New City,”<br />

Kandahar remains<br />

substantially<br />

unchanged from<br />

the city built by<br />

Ahmad Shah<br />

Durrani two hundred years ago.<br />

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Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

5 Major Cities<br />

Nooristan (Land of Light)<br />

Nooristan refers to the area that comprises Laghman and Ningarhar, is inhabited<br />

by approximately 600,000 Nooristanis, covers approximately 5,000 sq mi, and<br />

contains five main valleys. In the valleys, there are tribes that speak their own languages,<br />

which are grouped under the name Dardic within the Indo-European language<br />

family. The classification of this subgroup mentions six Nooristani languages:<br />

Ashkun, Kamviri, Kati, Prasuni, Tregami, and Waigali.<br />

There are many physical and cultural differences between the people of<br />

Nooristan and those living around them. Their preference for stools and chairs<br />

to a rug on the floor is another<br />

difference.<br />

Nooristani music is quite<br />

distinctive as are the instruments,<br />

among which the harp<br />

is the most noticeable.<br />

Alexander the Great invited<br />

the young Nooristani men to<br />

join his army for the Indian<br />

campaign, and they proved<br />

their fighting quality with distinction.<br />

Many Greek motifs<br />

and customs found in the<br />

Nooristani culture originated<br />

from this experience.<br />

Throughout the following centuries, the people of these mountains successfully<br />

defied conquests and conversions as Islam replaced Buddhism and Hinduism<br />

on the plains below.<br />

In 1895, the army of Amir Abdur Rahman, the governor of Afghanistan, succeeded<br />

in subduing the Nooristanis and converted them to Islam. When his victorious<br />

army arrived in Kabul, Amir announced that henceforth, Kafiristan,<br />

“Land of the Infidels,” was to be known as Nooristan, “Land of Light.”<br />

A large part of Nooristan is inaccessible. Even for those who travel on foot,<br />

the trails are difficult and precipitous. The foot-wide bridges built 30 ft high and<br />

above the angry, frothing waters, are so dizzying that horses cannot maneuver<br />

them.<br />

Almost all Nooristani villages are built on top of high peaks. The houses span<br />

the mountainsides, one on top of the other with the roof of one serving as the<br />

front porch and play ground of the house above.<br />

The conversion of the Kafir people of the remote region to Islam happened<br />

70 years ago. They are called Nooristani, “People of Light.” They are unique<br />

throughout Afghanistan, and according to their legend, the people of Nooristan<br />

claim the Greek god Dionysus as their patron.


Valley of Bamiyan<br />

Reached by a seven hour-drive by<br />

car or an hour’s<br />

flight from Kabul,<br />

the beautiful valley<br />

is undoubtedly one<br />

of Afghanistan’s<br />

foremost attractions.<br />

There are<br />

also extensive ruins<br />

of ancient towns<br />

and fortresses, such<br />

as the Red City,<br />

which flourished<br />

until the onslaught<br />

of Genghis Khan in<br />

the thirteenth century.<br />

Under the rule of<br />

Kanishka the Great,<br />

the area of Bamiyan developed into<br />

a major commercial and religious<br />

center, and the smaller, 38 meterhigh<br />

Buddha statue was built. Two<br />

centuries later, the colossal, 55<br />

meter-high Buddha statue was<br />

carved out. Thousands of ornamented<br />

caves that were inhabited by yellow-robed<br />

monks<br />

extended into<br />

Foladi and Kakrak<br />

Valley, where a<br />

smaller, 6.5 metertall<br />

statue of<br />

Buddha was built.<br />

Pilgrims from<br />

throughout the<br />

Buddhist world<br />

poured into<br />

Bamiyan to admire<br />

its spectacular and<br />

sacred sites. Later,<br />

Bamiyan fell to the<br />

Islamic conquerors<br />

in the 9th century.<br />

Minaret of Jam, Ghor<br />

The central route from Kabul to<br />

Herat is undoubtedly<br />

a fascinating experience<br />

and is to be<br />

undertaken by<br />

adventurous travelers.<br />

Passing the first<br />

highlights, Bamiyan<br />

and Band-e Amir, the<br />

route leads via Pan<br />

Jaw to Change<br />

Charan, the capital<br />

of the Ghor<br />

province.<br />

The road continues<br />

to the north via<br />

Sharak, where in a<br />

remote valley, closely<br />

surrounded on all<br />

sides by towering barren mountains, the<br />

65 meter-high Minaret of Jam stands at<br />

the southern bank of the Hari Rod<br />

River. It is the only well-preserved<br />

architectural monument from the<br />

Ghorid period. The minaret is one of<br />

the highest in the world and is repaired<br />

with the help of the Afghan government<br />

and the international<br />

community.<br />

Minarets of<br />

Ghazni<br />

The two remaining<br />

minarets, built by<br />

Sultan Masoud III<br />

(1099-1114) and<br />

Bahram Shah (1118-<br />

1152), are at a fraction<br />

of their original<br />

height and served as<br />

models for the spectacular<br />

tower of Jam,<br />

which in turn,<br />

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Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

5 Major Cities<br />

inspired the Qutub Minar at Delhi.<br />

Ghazni, an important market town and famous for embroidered sheepskin coats,<br />

was the dazzling capital of Ghaznavid Empire from 994-1160, which encompassed<br />

much of northern India, Persia and Central Asia. Many campaigns were launched<br />

from there into India, resulting in the eastward spread of Islam. The glorious city<br />

was torn to the ground by Arab invaders in 869, by the Ghorid Sultan Alauddin in<br />

1151, and by Genghis Khan in 1221.<br />

The city of Ghazni was selected as the cultural capital of the Islamic world for<br />

the year 2013.<br />

Qalai-Bost, Helmand<br />

Lashkargah is the capital of the Helmand province and built by the Helmand<br />

Arghandad Valley Authority, which seeks to transform and revive the region’s fertile<br />

fields. Ancient Bost now lies south of the administrative center. Bost is recognized<br />

in the Zoroastrian hymns of the Avesta, in Achaemenid town lists, and in 1st century<br />

accounts. The citadel was conquered by the Arab around 661 AD. Form the<br />

11th – mid-12th century, Bost prospered as the winter capital of the Ghaznavids. It<br />

was burned and looted in 1151 by the Ghorids, and then completely demolished<br />

by Genghis Khan in 1220.<br />

The remains of the great palace of Masoud give visitors an idea of the splendor<br />

of the court and of what was then the greatest empire of the east. A remarkable<br />

monument is the magnificently decorated arch, which has a span of 80 ft.<br />

Seraj-ul-Emorat<br />

Jalaluddin Akbar, the Mughal Emperor of India that ruled during 1556-<br />

1605, founded the city of Jalalabad in 1570 and named it after himself,<br />

which meant “abode of splendor.” Since then, Kabul’s rulers have<br />

favored its mild winter climate. Many of their palaces have disappeared.<br />

The ornate and graceful Bagh-i-Shahi, “King’s Gardens,” built by Amir<br />

Abdur Rahman on the banks of the Kabul River during 1880-1901,<br />

endured constant renovation, is occupied by the governor, and is closed<br />

to the public. Government offices occupy Bagh-i-Kawkab, “Star Garden,”<br />

to the west of Bagh-i-Shahi, where Amir Habibullah 1901-1919 and his<br />

family lived during 1901-1919.<br />

The palace in the city of Herat called Seraj-ul-Emorat, “Light of<br />

Buildings,” was also built by Rahman, who supervised the construction to<br />

a completion in 40 days.<br />

After Rahman’s assassination in 1919, his son, King Amanullah used the<br />

palace as a state guesthouse from 1919 to1929, when it was looted and<br />

abandoned amid tribal revolts that struck Jalalabad in November 1928.<br />

Bits of decoration remain near the west entrance; the original gas lamps<br />

stand intact. The gardens remain and offer a peaceful haven for an afternoon<br />

promenade.


5 Major Cities<br />

Kabul<br />

The capital city is a legend of antiquity<br />

and is abound by<br />

the beauty of its<br />

ancient mosques,<br />

citadel, places and<br />

holy shrines.<br />

Throughout its history,<br />

Kabul has been<br />

the major trading link<br />

between surrounding<br />

and distant countries<br />

and remains as<br />

Afghanistan’s central<br />

marketplace.<br />

Places to See<br />

Bala Hissar<br />

The Bala Hissar, “high fort," of Kabul<br />

sit on the eastern tail-ends of the Kuhe<br />

Sher Darwaza, and by some<br />

accounts, it has origins to the 6th century.<br />

The emperor,<br />

Babur developed the<br />

site extensively after<br />

he took Kabul in<br />

1504, and succeeding<br />

Moghul emperors<br />

continued his work.<br />

Emperor Akbar<br />

also placed great<br />

importance on holding<br />

the Kabul fort as<br />

the northern key to<br />

India. Shah Jahan,<br />

who later built Taj<br />

Mahal at Agra, ,<br />

impressed his father, Jahangir, by<br />

remodeling Bala Hissar, which was<br />

assigned to him as his quarters at the<br />

age of fifteen.<br />

At its peak, the fort was of a size<br />

comparable to the great Mughal forts at<br />

Agra and Lahore. Before being<br />

destroyed during the second Anglo-<br />

Afghan War, it was divided into an<br />

upper citadel and a lower fortified<br />

township, in which palaces and other<br />

buildings stood.<br />

Old City Walls<br />

The ancient walls<br />

of Kabul’s ancient<br />

city begin at Bala<br />

Hissar. They are 7<br />

meters high, 3<br />

meters thick, and<br />

have origins to the<br />

Greco-Bactrian period<br />

of the 3rd century<br />

BC.<br />

Baghe Bala<br />

The many-domed palace glimmers<br />

on a hill to the north of the city. The<br />

garden of Baghe Bala, “high garden,”<br />

sits below the International Hotel is one<br />

of Kabul's most popular places.<br />

It can be reached by taking<br />

International Drive,<br />

turning right into an<br />

area of pine trees,<br />

and passing the old<br />

summer palace.<br />

Arriving at the<br />

palace, one sees the<br />

formerly best<br />

restaurant in Kabul,<br />

which has a swimming<br />

pool.<br />

Mosques<br />

Kabul has many<br />

interesting mosques. The most famous<br />

ones in the center of the city are:<br />

Masjide Pule Kheshti, Masjide Shahe<br />

Du Shamshira, Masjid-e Id Gha, and<br />

Masjid-e Sherpur.<br />

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Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

5 Major Cities<br />

46<br />

Kabul Surroundings<br />

Istalif<br />

The Istalif village lies north of Kabul in Kuh Daman, a valley ringed by barren<br />

hills and dotted with villages nestled within green orchards. It is one of the largest<br />

and most ancient villages. Istalif is famous for green and blue pottery and its picturesque<br />

bazaar<br />

Paghman<br />

Paghman is one of Kabul’s popular summer resorts. In 1919, King Amanullah<br />

built the imposing victory arc in the central square in commemoration of the War<br />

of Independence.<br />

Kabul Museum<br />

It provides one of Central Asia’s primary treasure chests of ancient art and<br />

archaeological objects<br />

Places to Stay<br />

Lodging in Afghanistan falls into two categories: hotels and guesthouses. In the<br />

hotels, each room has a full bathroom, and amenities include laundry and room<br />

services and a swimming pool or exercise facility.<br />

Most hotels have wireless internet access.<br />

The guesthouses are generally less expensive than hotels, because fewer amenities<br />

are offered; guests usually share the bathrooms.<br />

The latest addition to Afghan lodging is the five-star Kabul Serena Hotel, which<br />

has four restaurants, a gift shop, a fitness center, an internet café, and some meeting<br />

facilities.


Hotels<br />

Heetal Plaza Hotel<br />

End of street 14, Wazir Akbar Khan,<br />

behind the mosque, Kabul<br />

Tel: +93(0) 7915-9697<br />

Website: http://www.heetal.com<br />

Intercontinental Kabul<br />

Baghe Bala Road, Kabul<br />

Tel: +93(20) 2210- 321<br />

Website: www.intercontinental.com<br />

Kabul Inn<br />

Qala-e-Fatullah Khan Bazar<br />

Near Zarghona High School, Kabul<br />

Mobile: +93(79) 569-355<br />

Email: Kabul_inn@hotmail.com<br />

Kabul Serena Hotel<br />

Froshgah Street, Kabul<br />

Tel: +93(79) 9654-000<br />

Fax: +93(79) 9654-111<br />

Email: info@serena.com.af<br />

Website:www.serenahotels.com/afghani<br />

stan/kabul/home.htm<br />

Mustafa Hotel<br />

Home to Kabul’s famous Kabab night<br />

every Thursday<br />

Tel: +93(0) 70276021<br />

Email: mustafa_hotel@hotmail.com<br />

Website: www.mustafahotel.com<br />

Safi Landmark Hotel Suites<br />

Shahr-e-Nau, Kabul<br />

Tel: (020) 2203121<br />

Email: furqan@landmarkhotelsdubai.com<br />

Website: http://www.landmarkhotelsdubai.com/landmark/newprojects.asp<br />

Spinzar Hotel<br />

Next to the Ministry of Information<br />

and Culture Asma-yee Watt, Kabul<br />

Tel: 070 274983<br />

Guesthouses<br />

Afghans4tomorrow Guesthouse<br />

Near Kabul University<br />

Email: sorayaomar0710@yahoo.com<br />

Ajmal Wali<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Street 10, No 140<br />

Tel: +93 (70) 277-657<br />

Assa 1<br />

Off Flower Street<br />

Tel: +93 (70) 274-364<br />

Assa 2<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, House 9, Muslim<br />

Street<br />

Tel: +93 70 276579<br />

Bs Place<br />

Qala-e-Fatullah<br />

Tel: +93 70276416<br />

Chez Ana, Media Action<br />

International Guesthouse<br />

Passport Lane, Kabul<br />

Tel: +93 70282699<br />

Deutscher Hof Kabul (DHK),<br />

German Restaurant & Guesthouse,<br />

Lounge & Transportation Service<br />

Qala Fatullah Str.3, House 60.<br />

Tel: +93 79322582<br />

Website: www.deutscher-hof-kabul.de<br />

Note: DHK is also a training center for<br />

cooks, waiters, and housekeepers. This<br />

is a cooperative project with the AGEF,<br />

Association of Experts in the Fields of<br />

Migration & Development <strong>Cooperation</strong>,<br />

a German vocational training center.<br />

Everest<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan<br />

Tel: +93 70281277<br />

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Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

5 Major Cities<br />

Faisal<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Street 15, no. 27<br />

Tel: +93 70274696<br />

Faisal Bilal/German<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Street 15, No. 73.<br />

Tel 1: +93 70274808<br />

Tel 2: +93 70281413<br />

Gandamak Lodge<br />

No. 5 Passport Lane.<br />

Tel: +93 70276937<br />

Email: gandamaklodge@yahoo.com<br />

Global<br />

Flower Street<br />

Tel: +93 70 281907<br />

Email: Edward.dean@globalpsw.com.pk<br />

Haseeb<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Street 13, No.556<br />

Tel: +93(70)274986<br />

Helsinki<br />

On way to the airport<br />

Tel: +93 70284305<br />

Email:osmankhaliq@hotmail.com<br />

Hendokush<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Street 10 Z, No 09.<br />

Tel: +93 70279558<br />

House 150<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Street 10.<br />

Tel: 0093 70278734.<br />

Karwansara Guesthouse & Restaurant<br />

117 Interior Ministry Street, Kabul.<br />

Tel: 0093 70291794.<br />

LeMonde<br />

7 Herati Mosque St, Shar-e-Nou, Kabul.<br />

Tel: 009370280751<br />

www.lemondeghkabul.blogspot.com<br />

Marvellous<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Street 10, No.<br />

214, Kabul<br />

Tel: 009370275519<br />

Naween<br />

Kolola Pushta , Kabul.<br />

Tel 1:009370224411<br />

Tel 2: 009370291588<br />

Park Residence<br />

Shar-e- Now, Kabul.<br />

Tel: 0093 70275728<br />

Rabia Balkhi House<br />

Tel 1:+97 70268840<br />

Tel 2:+97 79030631<br />

Tel 3:+97 79309309<br />

Email 1:farid_roafi@yahoo.com<br />

Email 2:nehan_nargis@yahoo.com<br />

Email 3:seema@ghanis.org<br />

Rose Valley<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Street No. 14,<br />

No 3<br />

Tel 1:0093 70 289019<br />

Tel 2:0093 70 274590<br />

Sarwe Foshang Guest House<br />

Shahr-e-Nau, West Side of Park,<br />

Kabul<br />

Tel: 0202201629<br />

Shamal<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Street 13, No. 452<br />

Tel: 0093 70 278601<br />

Silk Route<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan<br />

Tel: 0093 70275800<br />

Sultan<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan, Street 10<br />

Tel: 0093 70277374<br />

Taj Mahal<br />

Wazir Akbar Khan Street 15, No 128<br />

Tel: 0093 70 275830


Where & What to Eat<br />

Afghan Food<br />

Afghan cuisine is an appetizing<br />

cross between the flavors of the<br />

Mediterranean, Middle East, Iran and<br />

India. It contains several rice dishes<br />

that are often served with a assortment<br />

of thick, curried sauces cooked<br />

with lamb, beef and chicken. Spinach<br />

and eggplants constitute two commonly<br />

eaten vegetables. Traditional<br />

Afghan fare is rich in spices like as<br />

cardamom, which lends a sweet, aromatic<br />

quality to drinks and dishes.<br />

A quintessential Afghan dish, Qabili<br />

Palao consists of<br />

raisins, carrots,<br />

and lamb with<br />

browned rice.<br />

Variations in the<br />

dish include the<br />

addition of<br />

sliced almonds<br />

or pistachios.<br />

Another<br />

important<br />

savory dish is<br />

Aushak - a leekstuffed<br />

dumpling that is served over a<br />

garlic yogurt sauce and layered with a<br />

thick ground-beef tomato sauce with<br />

dried mint and crushed red pepper<br />

sprinkled on top. Appealing to their<br />

meat-centric gastronomy, Afghans also<br />

enjoy kabobs, which are skewers of<br />

meat heavily marinated in a delectable<br />

concoction of herbs and spices.<br />

Afghan desserts are robust in flavor,<br />

often drawing upon fragrant ingredients,<br />

such as rosewater and cardamom.<br />

A popular treat is a creamy, custard-like<br />

dessert similar to the Italian<br />

Pannecotta with a crushed pistachio<br />

topping.<br />

With its mélange of flavors, Afghan<br />

cuisine offers food to appease even<br />

the most demanding palate.<br />

Did you know that Afghan cuisine<br />

may well have been one of the<br />

world's first experiments in fusion<br />

cuisines<br />

Afghan food combines elements of<br />

Indian, Persian, Mediterranean,<br />

Chinese and Turkish food to create<br />

memorable and delicious dishes.<br />

From the traditional bread known<br />

as Naan to the elaborately flavored<br />

rice dishes known as Palao and the<br />

large variety of kebabs, Afghanistan's<br />

location as a crossroads of civilizations<br />

is evident in its food.<br />

Additionally,<br />

Afghanistan's<br />

role as the heart<br />

of the Silk Road,<br />

a historic trading<br />

route, long<br />

allowed ingredients<br />

to flow<br />

from east and<br />

west and back.<br />

Without<br />

Afghanistan,<br />

Europeans may<br />

have never tasted carrots and tomatoes<br />

and would have gone without<br />

spices such as saffron, cardamom,<br />

coriander and cumin.<br />

Restaurants in Kabul<br />

International and Afghan dishes are<br />

readily available in many of Kabul's<br />

modern restaurants. Afghanistan is<br />

known for its variety of palaos (rice<br />

cooked with meat, chicken, or vegetables<br />

in various ways), which are<br />

found throughout the country.<br />

Afghan Kabob (charbroiled skewered<br />

meat), Bolani and Ashak<br />

(Afghan-style ravioli stuffed with leeks<br />

topped with yogurt and cooked<br />

ground beef) are a few of the many<br />

49


50<br />

Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

5 Major Cities<br />

tasty dishes. Also refer to UN cleared<br />

restaurants.<br />

L'Atmosphere<br />

French cuisine<br />

French & English menu<br />

Opening hours 10:00 -22:00<br />

St.4, Qala-e- fatullah 0799-300264<br />

Phone: 070-224982<br />

Phone orders<br />

Dehli Darbar<br />

Indian cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 10.00 - 22.00<br />

Moslim St. near Assa Guest House<br />

0799-324899 0799-833238<br />

Phone orders<br />

Popolano<br />

French cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 09.00 - 22.00<br />

Charahi Ansari Kabul 070-288116<br />

Phone orders<br />

Lai Thai<br />

Thai cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours<br />

11.00 -21.00<br />

St.15 Vazir Akbar Khan House<br />

No.124<br />

070-297557 070-278640<br />

No phone orders/home delivery<br />

B'S PLACE (Guest.House)<br />

Italian, Mexican cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 11.00 - 23.00<br />

Str.2, Qala-e- fatullah House No.3<br />

070-276416 070-276711<br />

Phone order<br />

Elbow room<br />

Continental/European cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 10.30 - 22.00<br />

MOFA street<br />

0799-352538 070-254432<br />

Vila Velebita<br />

European cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 10.00 - 22.00<br />

St. 10 Vazir Akbar khan<br />

0799-160368<br />

No phone orders/home delivery<br />

Istanbul<br />

Turkish cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 08.00 - 21.00<br />

Macroian2, Matba block 104<br />

070-200116 0799-356282<br />

Phone orders<br />

Escalades<br />

European cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 10.00 - 22.00<br />

1st Qala-e-Fateullah<br />

0799-473763<br />

Golden Key<br />

Sea food restaurant<br />

Chinese cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 10.00 - 21.00<br />

St.13, Vazir Akbar Khan Kabul<br />

0799-002800 0799-016591<br />

Kulba Afghan<br />

Afghan, Italian cuisine<br />

English menu


Opening hours 10:00 - 21.00<br />

Shar-e-now, Esmat Moslim St.<br />

3rd floor<br />

0799452151 070034979<br />

Shar-e-Naw Burger<br />

Fast Food cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 09.00 - 21.00<br />

Shahr-e-naw, opoosite park<br />

0799-300797 070-255788<br />

Phone order<br />

Everest Pizza<br />

Fast Food cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 09.00 - 21.00<br />

13 St.Vazir Akbar Khan, Kabul<br />

0799-317979 070-263636<br />

Phone orders/ home delivery<br />

Samarkand<br />

International cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 10:00 - 22:00<br />

Qala Musa, near Panalpina<br />

0799-234646 0799-118460<br />

Carlitos<br />

Mexican cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 10:00 - 22:00<br />

St. 15 Vazir Ak Khan<br />

0799-159697 0799-167824<br />

16. Kabul Inn<br />

International cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours10:00-22:00<br />

Qala-Fateullah, near Zarghoona<br />

school<br />

0799-359355 020-2201407<br />

RED HOT SIZZLIN<br />

International cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 11:00-21:00<br />

Old macrorian, ARC Yuksel Camp<br />

TAVERNE DU LIBAN<br />

Middle Eastern cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 11:00-22:00<br />

St. 10 Vazir Akbar Khan<br />

FLOWER STREET CAFÉ<br />

Californian cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 8:00 -17:00<br />

House No.57, Str#7<br />

Qala-e-Fatullah<br />

070293124 0799356319<br />

Phone order delivery<br />

SHANDIZ<br />

International cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 10:00 - 21:00<br />

Vazir Akbar Khan<br />

0799-342928 070-284026<br />

Deutscher Hof Kabul Restaurant&<br />

Guest House<br />

German cuisine<br />

German/ English menu<br />

Opening hours 11:00 - 23:30<br />

Kalai Fattulah, Street 3, House 60<br />

0799-322582<br />

BAKU Azerbaijani<br />

Azerbaijani cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 11:00- 22:00<br />

Street 15, Lane 5, House, 329 WAK<br />

0799-083918 0799-827313<br />

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52<br />

Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

5 Major Cities<br />

No phone orders/home delivery<br />

CAFÉ ZARNEGAR<br />

International (Buffet and a la carte)<br />

cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 06.30 -22.00<br />

Kabul Serena Hotel, Froshgah Street<br />

0799-654000 ext. 4553<br />

Phone orders<br />

SILK ROUTE<br />

South East Asian cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 18.00 -22.00 Kabul<br />

Serena Hotel, Froshgah Street<br />

0799-654000 ext. 4554<br />

SERENA PASTRY SHOP<br />

Freshly baked pastries and bread<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 07.00 -20.00<br />

Kabul Serena Hotel, Froshgah Street<br />

0799-654000 ext. 4560<br />

ANAR<br />

Indian- Chinse cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 11:00-22:00<br />

St.14, Lane 3 WAK<br />

0799-567291<br />

TAVERNE DU LIBAN<br />

International cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 11:00-22:00<br />

St.14, Lane 3 WAK<br />

070-210651<br />

KOREAN<br />

Korean cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 11:00-21:00<br />

Str.2, house No.120, Karte-She,<br />

Kabul<br />

0799 199509 0799 007546<br />

SUFI<br />

International cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 11:00-22:00<br />

Aryoob Cinema, 2nd part of Karte<br />

Parwan<br />

Shamiana<br />

Multi Cuisine<br />

English menu<br />

Opening hours 7:00-23:00<br />

Kabul City Center<br />

020-2203131<br />

Where and What to Buy<br />

Afghanistan offers the visitor a rich<br />

selection of handicrafts. Luxurious<br />

Afghan carpets, karakul coats, fur<br />

overcoats, embroidered material,<br />

caps, and hand-woven silk fabrics and<br />

antiques are some of the items that


tempt the traveler to<br />

lighten his or her<br />

wallet. Afghanistan's<br />

fruits and nuts are<br />

second to none in<br />

flavor.<br />

Gemstones are<br />

also a major commodity.<br />

However, travelers<br />

are urged to be<br />

cautious when purchasing<br />

items of<br />

questionable origin.<br />

Exportation of antiques requires<br />

authorization from the related authorities.<br />

Purchase of artifacts belonging to<br />

the Kabul museum or national heritage<br />

of Afghanistan is punishable by<br />

law and artifacts will be confiscated.<br />

While there are many places for visitors<br />

to shop in Afghanistan, Kocha-e-<br />

Murgha, or "Chicken Street," stands as a<br />

famous and historic place for shopping<br />

in Kabul.<br />

In addition to antique musical instruments<br />

and hand-made Afghan carpets,<br />

boutiques carry postcards, maps, ashtrays,<br />

and boxes made of the famous<br />

Afghan blue stone, lapis lazuli,<br />

Grocery stores in Afghanistan stock<br />

an assortment of snacks from around<br />

the world: fruit juice from Uzbekistan,<br />

jam from Pakistan, bottled water from<br />

Italy, cheese from Austria, and cereal<br />

from the United States. Since Chicken<br />

Street is the main tourist market in the<br />

capital, one is likely to be asked to pay<br />

a higher price, especially if one is not<br />

with a local guide.<br />

Other places in Kabul to shop<br />

include the Kabul City Center, Shahr-e-<br />

Nau Shopping Centers, Market-e-<br />

Jamhoryat, Afghan Super Store, Flower<br />

Street, and the new Kabul Mall.<br />

Istalif is a district in the Koh Daman<br />

Herat<br />

valley, which is 54<br />

km from Kabul. This<br />

district is known for<br />

its blue pottery,<br />

ceramics, cotton<br />

prayer rugs, and<br />

intricately carved<br />

wooden chests.<br />

The products sold<br />

in the Istalif bazaar<br />

are also available on<br />

Chicken Street and<br />

Flower Street of<br />

Shahr-e-Nau.<br />

The history of Herat is one of repeated<br />

destruction and reconstruction.<br />

Conqueror after conqueror, from the<br />

time of Alexander the Great, took it,<br />

destroyed it, and then rebuilt it. From<br />

1040 to 1175, the Seljuks ruled the city<br />

after defeating the Ghaznavids. Then<br />

the Ghorids captured and held it until<br />

the city fell to the control of the<br />

Khwarazm Empire. In 1221, the<br />

Mongols and Tuli took Herat, yet<br />

Genghis Khan’s rule ended with the<br />

citizens’ revolt that killed the Mongol<br />

garrison.<br />

Extremely angered, Genghis Khan<br />

rode upon the city with 80,000<br />

troops and besieged it within<br />

six months, leaving only forty<br />

people alive. In 1245, Herat<br />

was given to the Kart Maliks.<br />

Tamerlane destroyed Herat in<br />

1381, however, his son<br />

Shahrukh, rebuilt it and stated<br />

that the cultural renaissance<br />

makes it the center of learning<br />

and culture.<br />

During the Timurid rule,<br />

the famous poet of Herat,<br />

Jami and the miniaturist,<br />

53


54<br />

Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

5 Major Cities<br />

Behzad were born, Queen Gawhar Shad’s<br />

Musalla was built and Gozergah was<br />

restored, and the city experienced a second<br />

flourishing period. In 1718, the Hotaki<br />

Afghan clan struggled for Herat’s independence,<br />

which continued until 1880, when<br />

the city became an integral part of<br />

Afghanistan. With its monumental buildings<br />

and splendid complexes, the beautiful city<br />

is rightfully called, "the Pearl of Great<br />

Khorasan."<br />

Places to See<br />

Citadel<br />

This fort, originally built by Alexander the Great, suffered repeated attacks and<br />

dominates the Herat landscape. Held by the Ghaznavid, the Seljuks, the Ghorids,<br />

the Mongols the Timurids, the Safavids and others, the citadel is a reminder of the<br />

time of kings, conquerors and great pageantry.<br />

Masjid-e Jami<br />

In the center of the city, the great mosque, and was built in the time of<br />

Zoroaster, was rebuilt several times, and stands in splendor since its last.<br />

Old Town & Bazaar<br />

An enjoyable way to get around the Old Town and to Gozargah is by the horse<br />

drawn taxis that queue at the beginning of the road that leads to the bazaar and<br />

citadel. The Herat Bazaar’s arched mud<br />

brick tunnels lead off the main streets to<br />

more houses, surprising squares, interesting<br />

street turns, and more houses that encircle<br />

an unexpected courtyard. The bazaar caters<br />

to many needs: silk turbans, aluminum<br />

cooking pans, firewood, motorcycle and<br />

lorry traders, car battery replacements,<br />

Wellington boots, bikes, plastic shoes, ripe<br />

oranges, and popcorn.<br />

Gawhar Shad Mausoleum &<br />

Minarets<br />

Of the Gawhar Shad madrasa (theological<br />

college), which is named after the famous<br />

Timurid queen, five minarets survived. Their<br />

chief glory was the tile work, of which the<br />

blue and turquoise tiles remain. The interior<br />

of the mausoleum contains a set of inter-


locking niches<br />

painted in slightly<br />

faded colors, and<br />

its three graves<br />

belong to Gawhar<br />

Shad, Huseyn<br />

Bayqara, and a<br />

child.<br />

Gozargah<br />

A complex of<br />

buildings in the<br />

east of the city,<br />

the Sufi shrine of<br />

Gozargah holds<br />

the burial site of Abdullah Ansari, the<br />

Sufi poet, who lived during 1006 –<br />

1089. The buildings were started under<br />

Shahrukh.<br />

Upon entering, it is advised to<br />

remove shoes at the portico. There is a<br />

hallway with a domed and painted<br />

roof.<br />

A mosque stands to the left; on the<br />

right a staircase leads to a room containing<br />

a hair of the Prophet<br />

Muhammad (PBUH). It is housed in a<br />

circular cupboard that is covered in<br />

green cloth. The floor of the hallway is<br />

made up of beautifully worn white marble<br />

paving stones of various sizes and<br />

heights that are hundreds of years old.<br />

The tiling of blue interlocking lozenges<br />

in the hall is magnificent and ancient.<br />

Also, there are the lovely plaques<br />

carved with lines of Persian poetry and<br />

Quranic verses. In the courtyard one<br />

finds fine examples of the tile-work<br />

known as haft rangi, or "seven colors",<br />

for which Timurid period-Herat was<br />

famous.<br />

Places to Stay<br />

Green Palace Guest<br />

House<br />

Jardeh Mahbas, Street<br />

No.2<br />

Tel: 224219<br />

Mobile: 0704 05095<br />

Marco Polo Hotel<br />

Badmurghan Street<br />

Tel: 221944, 221947<br />

Mobile: 0704 03340<br />

E-mail: heratmarcopolo@yahoo.com<br />

Website: www.heratmarcopolo.com<br />

Where and What to Buy<br />

On the north side of Friday Mosque<br />

are the shops that sell handicrafts and<br />

antiques, some of which may be genuine.<br />

Herat's specialty is hand-blown<br />

blue glass, with bubbles which is a<br />

sort of rustic but attractive.<br />

55


56<br />

Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

5 Major Cities<br />

Kandahar<br />

Kandahar was the birthplace and<br />

the first capital of Afghanistan and<br />

founded by Ahmad Shah Durrani in<br />

1747. It is the second largest city of<br />

Afghanistan and located in the Asian<br />

Highway, halfway between Kabul<br />

and Herat.<br />

The city<br />

was razed to<br />

the ground by<br />

Arab invaders<br />

in 869 AD, by<br />

the Ghorid<br />

Sultan<br />

Alauddin in<br />

1151 AD, and<br />

by Genghis<br />

Khan in 1221<br />

AD. Yet, the<br />

area is rich in<br />

ancient monuments and enjoys a<br />

strategic position in the economy.<br />

Kandahar is also the setting of two<br />

of Asuka's Rock Edicts from circa the<br />

3rd century BC and unearthed in<br />

the Zor Shah or Old City.<br />

Places to See<br />

Kherqa Mubarak<br />

This shrine contains the cloak of<br />

the Prophet<br />

Mohammad<br />

(PBUH), and<br />

Ahmad Shah<br />

Durrani<br />

brought it to<br />

Kandahar.<br />

Chel Zina<br />

The monument<br />

consists<br />

of 40 stairs<br />

leading to a<br />

chamber carved into rock. Inside it,<br />

an inscription states that it was built<br />

by Babur and lists the domains of<br />

the Emperor.<br />

Kandahar Surroundings<br />

Zor Shar (Old City), Shrine of<br />

Haratj-e<br />

Baba, Shrine<br />

of Baba Wali,<br />

and Charsuq,<br />

“Bazar of<br />

Four<br />

Arcades.”<br />

Where<br />

to Buy<br />

Kandahar<br />

bazaars are<br />

famous for<br />

their fruits and handicrafts.<br />

Mazar-e-Sharif<br />

Mazar-e-Sharif, the capital of the<br />

Balkh province, is a major trading<br />

center famous for Karakul, a great<br />

variety of traditional Turkmen carpets,<br />

and high-quality, long-staple<br />

cotton. The city is named after the<br />

shrine of Hazarate Ali, the fourth<br />

caliph of<br />

Islam and<br />

cousin to and<br />

son-in-law of<br />

the Prophet<br />

Mohammad<br />

(PBUH).<br />

Hazarate<br />

Ali was assassinated<br />

in<br />

661 and<br />

buried at<br />

Kufa, near


Baghdad. Local<br />

tradition tells that<br />

his followers<br />

feared that enemies<br />

may take<br />

revenge on the<br />

body, and so<br />

placed his remains<br />

on a white shecamel<br />

that wandered<br />

until she fell<br />

exhausted upon<br />

the site where he<br />

was buried. The<br />

knowledge of the<br />

final resting place<br />

was lost until it<br />

was discovered<br />

later, and the great<br />

Seljuk Sultan Sanjar ordered a shrine<br />

built there in 1136.<br />

Changhis Khan destroyed the<br />

building, and again, the grave lay<br />

unmarked until a second discovery<br />

during the reign of<br />

the Timurid Sultan<br />

Hussain Baiqara.<br />

He ordered an<br />

elaborate shrine<br />

constructed in<br />

1481, yet none of<br />

the 15th century<br />

decoration<br />

remains. The later<br />

restoration<br />

returned the building<br />

to its original<br />

beauty.<br />

Thousands of<br />

white pigeons<br />

make their home<br />

there. Amir Sher<br />

Ali Khan lies<br />

buried there with<br />

other members of Amir Dost<br />

Mohammad’s family. The largest<br />

tomb is that of Amir’s illustrious son,<br />

Mohammad Akbar<br />

Khan, who played a<br />

prominent role during<br />

the First Anglo-<br />

Afghan War of<br />

1838-1842.<br />

Mazar-e-Sharif is<br />

visited by countless<br />

pilgrims throughout<br />

the year and particularly<br />

on Nowroz,<br />

March 21. During<br />

the Nowroz new<br />

year celebration the<br />

great Janda religious<br />

banner is raised to<br />

announce the beginning<br />

of spring and<br />

the coming of the<br />

new year, which is the an elaborately<br />

celebrated festival in Afghanistan.<br />

Places to See<br />

Road to Balkh<br />

The road to Balkh<br />

crosses the Hindu<br />

Kush via Salang Pass<br />

through the highest<br />

tunnel in the world,<br />

which is 3,363 m<br />

high. Surkh Kotal,<br />

the site of a great<br />

religious temple<br />

founded in 130 AD<br />

by Kanishka the<br />

Great, king of the<br />

Kushan, lies 240 km<br />

on route to Kabul<br />

and 12 km from<br />

Pule Khumri. It is<br />

one of Afghanistan's<br />

important archeological<br />

sites and was finally burned<br />

down by the Hephthalites, the<br />

nomadic rivals and ultimate succes-<br />

57


58<br />

Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

5 Major Cities<br />

sors to the Kushans. The capital of<br />

the Samangan province, Aibak, lies<br />

70 km further north. Two kilometers<br />

nearby and dating to the 4th century<br />

sits an important Buddhist site,<br />

which is locally known as Takhte<br />

Rustam, “Rustam’s Throne,” in<br />

honor of the hero of Ferdowsi’s<br />

great epic, the Shahnama, “<strong>Book</strong> of<br />

kings” around 1010. The stupa cave<br />

crowns the hill in front of the<br />

monastery, which is said to have<br />

been destroyed by Hephthalites<br />

around 460 AD, 60 km north of<br />

Tashkurghan, Kulm.<br />

Balkh Surroundings<br />

Khawja Parsa Shrine<br />

The main sight of Balkh is the late<br />

5th century<br />

late15th century<br />

and late<br />

Timurid<br />

Khwaja Parsa<br />

Shrine built<br />

by Sultan<br />

Husayn<br />

Bayqara. The<br />

turquoise<br />

pumpkin<br />

dome with<br />

fluted tiling is<br />

similar to the<br />

Mausoleum of<br />

Gawhar Shad in Herat. The shrine is<br />

dedicated to the saint Khwaja Parsa,<br />

a theologian who taught at the<br />

madrasa near the site and died in<br />

1460.<br />

Noh Gonbad Mosque (Nine<br />

Cupolas Mosque)<br />

This 9th century mosque is an<br />

early monument of the Islamic period.<br />

It has intricately carved stucco<br />

decorations of flowers and vines<br />

reaching up to its nine domes.<br />

What to Buy<br />

Karakulum is a staple product of<br />

the area. This very tightly wound<br />

sheep's coat is a distinguished product.<br />

Ten days before the ewe is due<br />

to give birth, she is disemboweled,<br />

and the unborn lamb is skinned.<br />

It was popularly used for the collars<br />

of western men's coats, yet it is<br />

rare to find. Mazar is also the manufacturing<br />

center for beautiful<br />

stripped silk chapans.Carpets and<br />

kilims have traditionally been the<br />

major trade items for the entire<br />

Central Asian region, including the<br />

former Soviet Union’s Central Asian<br />

lands, and<br />

Mazar is<br />

famous for<br />

such commodities.<br />

Fine<br />

embroidery,<br />

such as<br />

Arabian<br />

Nights<br />

embroidered<br />

leather slippers<br />

from<br />

Turkmenistan<br />

are also sold<br />

in Mazar.<br />

Bamiyan<br />

The Bamiyan village lies about<br />

2,500 m above sea level and 240<br />

km west of Kabul. The exquisite<br />

beauty of the valley is embraced by<br />

the snow capped range of the Koh-e<br />

Baba mountains in the south and by


59<br />

the steep and massive Buddha<br />

carved-cliffs in the north. The area<br />

of Bamiyan developed under<br />

Kanishka the Great to become a<br />

major commercial and religious center.<br />

Additionally, the smaller, 38 m<br />

Buddha statue was built during his<br />

reign. Two centuries later, the colossal,<br />

55 m Buddha statue was carved.<br />

Thousands of ornamented caves,<br />

inhabited by yellow robed monks,<br />

extended into Folladi and Kakrak<br />

valleys, where a smaller, 6.5 m statue<br />

of Buddha stands. Bamiyan fell to<br />

Muslim conquerors in the 9th<br />

Century.<br />

Places to See<br />

Shahr-e Gholghola<br />

Genghis Khan destroyed the<br />

Islamic city of Bamiyan in vengeance<br />

for the death of his<br />

grandson Mutugen<br />

in 1221. The ruins<br />

of the citadel,<br />

called the city of<br />

noise, give proof to<br />

the pre –Mongol<br />

magnificence.<br />

Band-e Amir<br />

The lake of<br />

Band-e Amir is situated<br />

in the<br />

Hazarajat mountains,<br />

75 km from<br />

Bamiyan, and at an altitude of<br />

approximately 3,000 m.<br />

Places to Stay<br />

Bamiyan Hotel<br />

Next to the governor's office on<br />

the town's main hill<br />

Tel: 23 00 33 8; 0702 76152<br />

Bamiyan Heights Hotel<br />

Tel: 0088 216 211 97621<br />

Where to Buy<br />

Bamiyan's old bazaar runs along<br />

the road immediately below the<br />

large Buddha. It was destroyed by<br />

the Taliban as part of their persecution<br />

of Hazaras. Since then, it grew<br />

and expanded. One can buy food<br />

and general household items,<br />

clothes, mobile<br />

phones, kebabs,<br />

DVDs, and get a<br />

room at a hotel.<br />

According to some,<br />

it is possible to find<br />

leather Bactrian<br />

manuscripts in<br />

Greek in the new<br />

bazaar.


60<br />

Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Etiquette- Do's and Don'ts<br />

Etiquette- Do's and<br />

Don'ts<br />

Role of Hospitality<br />

Hospitality is an essential aspect of<br />

Afghan culture. No matter who you<br />

are, if you visit a home you will be<br />

given the best the family has, this tradition<br />

has its roots in the idea of gaining<br />

honor.<br />

The societies in Afghanistan have<br />

conventional rules of polite behavior<br />

and put much emphasis on correct<br />

behavior.<br />

Honor in Afghan culture defines the<br />

reputation and worth of an individual,<br />

as well as those they are associated<br />

with.<br />

The head male of a family is responsible<br />

for protecting the honor of the<br />

family. The issue of honor drives much<br />

of the behavior surrounding the protection<br />

of women, modes of dress,<br />

social interaction, education and economic<br />

activity.<br />

Meeting and Greeting<br />

When meeting someone the handshake<br />

is the most common form on<br />

greeting. You will also see people<br />

place their hands over their hearts and<br />

nod slightly.<br />

enquiring about things like a person's<br />

health, business, family, etc is<br />

considered as a polite social behavior.<br />

Women and men do not shake<br />

hands.<br />

Mixing Between Genders<br />

Free mixing between genders only<br />

takes place within families. In professional<br />

situations such as at businesses<br />

or universities, males and females may<br />

be co-workers, but are nevertheless<br />

cautious to maintain each other's<br />

honor. Foreign females must learn to<br />

read the rules and live by them.<br />

Women must always dress properly to<br />

avoid unwanted attention.<br />

Dressing modestly and conservatively<br />

is advisable.<br />

Food and Drinking<br />

Drinking alcoholic beverages in public<br />

is forbidden.<br />

Religion and Culture<br />

Respect the religion, sacred places<br />

and cultures of people.


Language Essentials<br />

Accommodation<br />

Do you have any rooms available:<br />

Aya otagh-e khali darid<br />

I'd like a … room. (Single, shared),:<br />

man yak otagh-e ….. mikhaham (yak<br />

nafari, moshtarak).<br />

How much is it for… (One night, a<br />

week, two people):<br />

baraye …….. che ghadar gheimat<br />

darad (yak shab, yak hafteh, do nafar)<br />

We want a room with a … (bathroom,<br />

shower, TV, window). :<br />

man yak otagh mikhaham ke ………..<br />

daashte bashad. (Tashnaab, shawar, televizion,<br />

kelkeen)<br />

Conversation<br />

Welcome:<br />

khosh amadid<br />

Greetings:<br />

ehteramat,<br />

Hello:<br />

salaam<br />

good morning:<br />

sob be kheir<br />

good day:<br />

rooz khosh<br />

good evening:<br />

shamkhosh/bekheir<br />

goodbye:<br />

khoda hafez<br />

how are you:<br />

chetor hastid<br />

fine and you:<br />

khoob hastam,shoma chetor hastiid<br />

yes:<br />

baleh<br />

no:<br />

na/ nakhair<br />

please:<br />

lotfan<br />

thank you:<br />

tashakkor<br />

you're welcome:<br />

ghabelesh nist<br />

excuse me/ I'm sorry:<br />

bebakhshid/mazerat mikhaham<br />

I like…:<br />

man …… khosh daram,<br />

what's your name:<br />

esme shoma chist,<br />

my name is…:<br />

esme man ……. ast,<br />

where are you from:<br />

az koja hastid,<br />

I'm from…,:<br />

man az ……..hastam.<br />

Directions<br />

Where is the… :<br />

……..kojast(Hotel/taxi etc.)<br />

can you show me (on the map):<br />

mitawanid rooye naghshe be man<br />

neshan dahid/man ra rahnamayi konaid,<br />

is it far from here :<br />

aya az inja door ast<br />

Go straight ahead:<br />

mostaghim beraveed<br />

to the left:<br />

be tarafe chap<br />

to the right:<br />

be tarafe raast<br />

here:<br />

inja<br />

there:<br />

anja<br />

behind:<br />

dar aghab<br />

in front of……:<br />

pishe rooye…./moghabele…..,<br />

far from……:<br />

door az ……<br />

near to ….:<br />

nazdik be …..,<br />

opposite:<br />

rooberooye<br />

Health<br />

Where is the … (Chemist, dentist,<br />

doctor, hospital):<br />

koja hast (dawa khaneh, daktare dandan,<br />

daktar, shafa khaneh)<br />

61


62<br />

Islamic Republic of A F G H A N I S TA N<br />

Language Essentials<br />

I am sick:<br />

man mariz hastam<br />

I have… (Anemia, asthma, diabetes):<br />

man ……. Daram (kam khooni, nafas<br />

tangi, maraze shaker)<br />

I am allergic to … (antibiotics,<br />

aspirin, bees, peanuts, penicillin):<br />

man be (antibiotics, aspirin, bees,<br />

peanuts, penicillin) hassasiyat daram.<br />

Antiseptic:<br />

Antiseptic/zedde ofooni<br />

Diarrhea:<br />

es-haal<br />

Medicine:<br />

dawa<br />

sun block:<br />

zedde aftab<br />

Language difficulties<br />

Do you speak English:<br />

shoma englisi sohbat karde mitavanid<br />

does anyone speak English:<br />

kee englisi yaad darad<br />

I understand:<br />

man fahmidam<br />

I don't understand:<br />

man nafahmidam<br />

How do you say … in ( your language)<br />

: what does …mean:<br />

… chi ma'ni darad<br />

Please write it down:<br />

lotfan<br />

Numbers<br />

0,1…,10, 20,…,100,1000:<br />

yak(1), do(2), se(3), chahar(4),<br />

panj(5), shash(6), haft(7), hasht(8),<br />

noh(9), dah(10), bist(20), see(30),<br />

chehel(40), pinjah(50), shast(60), haftad(70),<br />

hashtad(80). Navad(90),<br />

sad(100), do sad(200), se sad(300),…,<br />

hazar(1000), do hazar(2000),…<br />

Paperwork<br />

Name:<br />

naam/esm<br />

Nationality:<br />

melliyat/tabeiyat<br />

Date/place of birth:<br />

tarikh/mahalle tavallod<br />

Sex/gender:<br />

jensiat<br />

Passport:<br />

passport<br />

Visa:<br />

visa<br />

Question words<br />

Who: kee/kodam kas<br />

what: chee<br />

when: key/che zaman<br />

where: koja<br />

which: kodam<br />

why: chera<br />

how: chegoone/chetawr<br />

Shopping Services<br />

Where is the… :<br />

Bank kojast<br />

(Bank: Bank, church:<br />

kelissa, city center:<br />

city center /markaz-e- shahr,<br />

consulate:<br />

ghonsoolgari,<br />

embassy:<br />

Sefarat, hotel: hotel,<br />

lodging house:<br />

mehman khaneh movaghatee,<br />

mosque:<br />

masjed,<br />

market:<br />

market/bazzar,<br />

police: police,<br />

police office:<br />

hawzeh amniyati,<br />

public telephone:<br />

telephon-e- shahree,<br />

public toilet:<br />

tashnab shahree/<br />

tashnab-e- omoomi,<br />

tourist office:<br />

markaz-e- touristi,<br />

town square:


maidan-e shahr,<br />

I'd like to buy…:<br />

mikhaham ……. ra bekharam.<br />

How much is it:<br />

chi gheimat darad<br />

chand ast,<br />

I don't like it:<br />

man nemikhahamash,<br />

May I look at it:<br />

mitavanam an ra bebinam<br />

I'm just looking:<br />

faghat mikhastam an ra bebinam,<br />

I think it's too expensive:<br />

fekr mikonam kheili ghemmat<br />

geran ast,<br />

I'll take it:<br />

man in ra mikharam/ migiram.<br />

Do you accept credit cards:<br />

aya credit card ghabool mikonid<br />

Do you accept travelers cheques:<br />

aya chek-haye safari/mosaferati ghabool<br />

mikonid<br />

More:<br />

bishtar<br />

Less:<br />

kamtar<br />

Smaller:<br />

cochaktar/ khordtar<br />

Bigger:<br />

bozorgtar/ kalantar<br />

Time & Dates<br />

What time is it:<br />

chee vaght ast/saa't chand ast<br />

Today:emroz<br />

Tomorrow:farad/saba<br />

Yesterday:diroz<br />

Tonight:emshab<br />

Morning:sobh<br />

Afternoon:ba'd az zohr<br />

Day:rooz<br />

Month:maah<br />

Year:saal,<br />

Monday:do shanbe<br />

Tuesday:se shanbe<br />

Wednesday:chahar shanbe<br />

Thursday:panj shanbe<br />

Friday:jome'<br />

Saturday:shanbe<br />

Sunday:yak shanbe<br />

Transport<br />

Public transport:<br />

transport-e omoomi<br />

where is the …:<br />

… kojast istgah-e bus kojast<br />

Airport:<br />

maidan-e havayee<br />

Bus stop:<br />

istgah-e bus<br />

Train station:<br />

istgah rail<br />

What time does the …leave:<br />

che vaght bus harkat mikonad<br />

What time does the …arrive<br />

che vaght bus miyayad<br />

Boat:<br />

keshti<br />

Bus:<br />

bus<br />

Plane:<br />

tayyareh<br />

Train:<br />

rail<br />

What time is the … bus:<br />

che vaght bus -e- avali miyayad<br />

First:<br />

avali<br />

Last:<br />

akharee<br />

Next:<br />

ba'dee/deegar<br />

I'd like a one-way ticket:<br />

man ticket-e- yak tarafeh mikhaham.<br />

Return ticket:<br />

ticket-e- do tarafeh,<br />

1st class:<br />

daraje-ye aval<br />

2nd class:<br />

daraje-ye dovom<br />

63

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