The London Gazette

Numb. 18.06. [ 1815 [3] ]
The London Gazette
EXTRAORDINARY.
THE ENGLISH GENTLEMAN AT APSLEY HOUSE
Published by Authority.
Styled by Jo Levin.
MONDAY, JANUARY 12, 2015.
Savile Row, London.
The bespoke tailors of
Savile Row, The Woolmark
Company, and the select
Shirt makers, Shoe makers
and Hatters associated with
‘The English Gentleman’
present their grateful thanks
to The Earl of Mornington
for facilitating the use of
the wonderful Apsley House
to show the modern face of
British elegance.
It is particularly appreciated that
permission has been given to hold
the event in this bicentenary
year of the Battle of Waterloo,
when the Duke of Wellington’s
House will have many demands
to meet.
The help of Josephine
Oxley, Keeper of the
Wellington Collection, and
of Christopher Small from
the English Heritage has
been invaluable.
This presentation is a reminder
that London is the world capital
of masculine style and has been so
for over two centuries. Through
‘The English Gentleman’, now
in its 5th Season, Savile Row
bespoke tailors and the
gentlemen’s houses of St. James’s
continue to present collections
with a powerful combination of
beautiful materials, principally
Merino Wool, and with first class
craftsmanship.
IN COLLABORATION WITH THE WOOLMARK COMPANY
LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN

[4]

[3]
ALLIED FORCES
Savile Row.
Mayfair & St.James’s.
Anderson & Sheppard (1906)
Chester Barrie (1935)
Chittleborough & Morgan (1974)
Ede & Ravenscroft (1689)
Edward Sexton (1969)
Gieves & Hawkes (1785 & 1771)
Henry Poole & Co (1806)
H. Huntsman & Sons (1849)
Lutwyche (2000)
Maurice Sedwell (1938)
Richard Anderson (2001)
Richard James Bespoke (1992)
Welsh & Jefferies (1917)
Budd (1910)
Edward Green (1890)
Gaziano & Girling (2006)
Grenson (1866)
G.J. Cleverley (1958)
Emma Willis (1987)
James Lock & Co (1676)
Turnbull & Asser (1885)
Schnieder Boots (1948)
STYLED BY JO LEVIN
COMPILED FROM OFFICIAL
AND AUTHENTIC DOCUMENTS
BY ANDA ROWLAND
Cocktails generously supplied by
Chivas Deluxe Blended Scotch Whisky.
Enjoy Chivas Responsibly :
drinkaware.co.uk for the facts about alcohol.
/THEWOOLMARKCOMPANY
/SAVILEROWCOLLECTIONS
@WOOLMARK
@SAVILEROWCOLLEC
#THEENGLISHGENTLEMAN
#MERINOWOOL
@THEWOOLMARKCOMPANY
@SAVILEROWCOLLECTIONS

[4]
The English Gentleman at
Apsley House takes the
form of a presentation featuring
a mix of models and London men,
dressed by Savile Row’s tailors
and the gentlemen’s houses of
Mayfair and St. James’s.
Organising Committee:
Jo Levin, Anda Rowland
Sammy Aki, Poppy Charles,
Audie Charles, Lloyd Almond,
Rob Soar, Holly Roberts,
Adaeze Ndakoji
Credits:
Casting by Adam Hindle
Production by Blonstein
Creative Productions. Hair
by Tyler Johnston@One
Represents Grooming by
Charlotte Reid@ One Represents
The official portfolio of all
of The English Gentleman
presentation images belongs
to Robert Fairer -
www.robertfairer.com
Please contact Robert at
robertfairer@mac.com
to discuss the use of any
photographs from the shows
at Spencer House, at Lord’s
Pavilion, at The Cabinet War
Rooms or at ApsleyHouse.
Rights free images, video and text
will be available to download on
the evening of Monday 12th
January 2015 with additional
content available on Tuesday
13th January from our website:
www.savile-row-londoncollections.com.
A video and
images capturing the mood and
lifestyle of The English
Gentleman and military styling
for Autumn/Winter 15/16 has
been created by Nick Leary
Photography.
Please email us with any questions
at press@savile-row-londoncollections.com.
All artwork by Jerome Faillant
Dumas www.agencelove.com.
Production and print by Hot Mash.
www.hot-mash.com
All images by kind permission of the English
Heritage and The Wellington Collection.
Copyright English Heritage.

[5]
London Collections: Men
As London is the home of menswear, so London
Collections: Men is the home of men’s fashion.
London Collections: Men not only celebrates the creative and
commercial importance of British brands and emerging talent, it also
embraces the rich cultural landscape that contributes to the
inspiration and success of this huge sector. All the events on the
schedule this season are designed to showcase the breadth of British
fashion talent, from the world’s most innovative emerging talents to
global menswear brands, and of course our inimitable Savile
Row tailors, whose influence continues to spread around
the world.
Season six of London Collections: Men promises to be the very best one
yet, as it has such a vast array of great shows, presentations, events,
dinners and parties. The enthusiasm for LC: M, and the enormous
number of additional designers wanting to show means that we have
extended the showcase by an extra day, so we now have a full four-day
calendar. LC:M has already become a staple of the menswear schedule,
and is a fabulous way to kick off the season. In London for season
six there are over one hundred different events, each one offering
a completely different view of British menswear. We have all been
overwhelmed by the enthusiasm for the project, and the scale and
ambition of all the many designers who are now showing here is
incredibly infectious. Not only does LC:M continue to attract British
brands back to the UK using London as a platform, but it is also
increasingly appealing to designers who previously showed in Milan,
Paris or New York. This season for instance we welcome the likes
of Coach, Aquascutum, Manolo Blahnik and Belstaff, as well as John
Galliano, who will be showing his first couture collection for
Maison Martin Margiela in London on January 12 We think this
proves that London is the greatest show on Earth!
Dylan Jones, OBE, Editor-In-Chief of British GQ, Editor-In-
Chief of GQ Style, Chairman of London Collections: Men

[6]
The Battle of Waterloo.
A defining moment in European history.
2015 marks the bicentenary of The Battle of Waterloo. The events
of 1815 were momentous both on and off the battlefield. It was a
historical watershed which brought more than 22 years of conflict in
Europe to a definitive close - it also affected many thousands of lives
for much of the Nineteenth Century and beyond.
Copyright Waterloo 200. Many thanks for their kind support.

[7]
Copyright English Heritage. The Wellington Collection.
ARTHUR WELLESLEY (1769-1852)
1st DUKE OF WELLINGTON
Sir Thomas Lawrence, P.R.A. (1769 - 1830) British School

[8]
The Battle of Waterloo.
By Gareth Glover
Date : 18 JUNE 1815
Location : 2km from Waterloo in Belgium; 13 km south of Brussels
Size of battlefield : 4 square kilometers
Forces
French army 72,000 men commanded by Emperor Napoleon versus
Allied (British/Hanoverian/Brunswick/Nassau/Dutch/Belgian) army
67,000 commanded by Field Marshal Duke of Wellington.
Later joined by 40,000 Prussians commanded by Field Marshal
Blucher.
Scenario
Napoleon, Emperor of France, had conquered an empire which almost
spanned the entire continent but was defeated in 1814 and banished
to the Isle of Elba. He escaped and marched with a small army to
successfully reclaim his throne in Paris, forcing the king to flee.
Threatened to be overwhelmed by a combination of all the major
nations of Europe, he decided to strike first to destroy part of this
combination before it could form up. The armies under Wellington
and Blucher were already encamped near the French border. Napoleon
invaded Belgium in a surprise attack, defeated the Prussians at Ligny
on 16 June, whilst part of Wellington’s forces fought a holding action
at Quatre Bras. The Prussians retreated but remained operational,
Napoleon mistakenly assumed they were fleeing to Germany.
Wellington withdrew his army to a chosen position and offered
battle, knowing that the Prussians were marching to join him and
outnumbered the French.
Object of the battle : Napoleon wanted to destroy Wellington’s
army and capture Brussels.
Terrain
The armies faced across a shallow valley on two low parallel ridges.
Wellington’s army was protected by three large farm complexes
known as Papelotte, La Haye Sainte & Hougoumont which had been
turned into minor fortresses.
Time battle commenced : 11.20 a.m. - Time ended : 8.30 p.m.

[9]
Main features of the battle
1.Wellington fought a defensive battle.
2.Napoleon attempts to capture the Hougoumont complex which
sucks in a huge number of troops but fails to capture it.
3.A huge infantry assault is destroyed by Wellington’s cavalry but
they were in turn decimated by French cavalry.
4.A number of mass cavalry attacks fail to break the allied lines.
5.La Haye Sainte farm is eventually captured and Wellington’s centre
put under extreme pressure.
6.The Prussian army arrives and immediately attacks the French
right wing, forcing Napoleon to split his army to fight on two fronts.
7.In a final act of desperation, Napoleon sends his Imperial Guard to
smash Wellington’s forces, allowing him to turn against the Prussians.
8.The French Guard fails and retreats.
9.The Guard retiring causes panic in the French army and they run
from the battlefield.
10.The Prussians pursue the French all night, preventing them rallying.
Casualties : Total casualties amounted to approximately 44,000
men and 12,000 horses killed and wounded.
Consequences
1.The French army proves incapable of reforming and Paris falls.
2.Napoleon abdicated and France surrenders, he died in exile on the
Island of St Helena.
3.King Louis XVIII returns to the throne.
4.The terrible slaughter cements the ‘Era of Congress’ in an attempt
to avoid another pan European war. It worked for exactly one
hundred years until 1914.
Courtesy of Waterloo 200 and of The Gareth Glover Collection at
www.garethglovercollection.com.
Gareth Glover a former Royal Navy Officer who lives in Cardiff.
He has studied the Napoleonic wars for 30 years and gained a
reputation as the foremost authority on British archive material.
He has brought more than 20 previously unpublished Napoleonic
memoirs into the public domain.
Copyright Waterloo 200. Many thanks for their kind support.

[10]
Chronology
of the 1st Duke of Wellington - 1787 to 1834
7 March 1787 Ensign
25 December 1787 Lieutenant
30 June 1791 Captain
30 April 1793 Major
30 September 1793 Lieutenant-Colonel
3 May 1796 Colonel (India)
29 April 1802 Major General
1 September 1804 Knight Companion of the Bath
30 January 1807 Dec 1812 Colonel of the 33rd Regiment of Foot
(later the Duke of Wellington’s Regiment)
3 April 1807 Irish Secretary (resigned April 1809)
8 April 1807 Privy Councillor
25 April 1808 Lieutenant-General (Portugal)
6 July 1809 Marshal-General of the Portuguese Army
26 August 1809 Baron Douro of Wellesley and Viscount Wellington of Talavera
August 1810 Member of the Regency Council in Portugal
31 July 1811 General
26 October 1811 Conde de Vimeiro and Knight Grand Cross of the Tower
and Sword (Portugal)
February 1812 A grandee of Spain, with the title of Duque de Ciudad Rodrigo
18 February 1812 Earl of Wellington
1 August 1812 Order of the Golden Fleece (Spain)
August 1812 Generalissimo of the Spanish Armies
18 August 1812 Marquess of Wellington
August 1812 Marquez de Torres Vedras (Portugal)

[11]
Chronology
of the 1st Duke of Wellington - 1787 to 1834
18 December 1812 Duque da Victoria (Portugal)
1 January 1813 - 1827 Colonel of the Royal Regiment of Horse Guards
4 March 1813 Knight of the Garter
21 June 1813 Field Marshal
3 May 1814 Marquess Douro and Duke of Wellington
5 July Nov 1814 Ambassador to the Court of France
18 July 1815 Prince of Waterloo (Netherlands)
22 October 1815 Commander-in-Chief of the Allied Armies of
Occupation in France
October 1818 Field Marshal in the Austrian, Russian and
Prussian Armies
26 December 1818 Master-General of the Ordnance
9 December 1819 Governor of Plymouth
19 February 1820 Colonel-in-Chief of the Rifle Brigade
1821, 1831, 1838 Lord High Constable (at the Coronations of George IV,
William IV and Victoria)
29 December 1826 Constable of the Tower of London
22 January 1827 Colonel of the Grenadier Guards
22 January 1827 Commander-in-Chief
15 February 1828 Prime Minister (resigned October 1830)
20 January 1829 Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports
30 January 1834 Chancellor of the University of Oxford
December 1834 Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs
(resigned April 1835)

[12]
]
COPENHAGEN.
ARTHUR WELLESLEY - 1st DUKE OF WELLINGTON’S WAR HORSE.

[[13]
]
Copyright English Heritage. The Wellington Collection.
The stallion stayed with the Duke in retirement and was given a funeral with full
military honours when he died in 1836. Copenhagen is buried at the Duke’s country
estate at Stratfield Saye in Hampshire.

[14]
The Woolmark Company
Supporting London Collections: Men
As a supporter of London Collections: Men, The Woolmark Company
continues to expand and develop their activities and designer
partnerships during the events and show schedule as a way to highlight
the relevance of Merino wool across the seasons within menswear and
especially within the British fashion and textile manufacturing industry.
As in previous seasons The Woolmark Company will join forces
once again with Savile Row to present The English Gentleman
at Apsley House, Number 1 London. The event will be a journey
through the different facets of British men’s style during the period of
the Duke of Wellington and in celebration of the bicentenary of The
Battle of Waterloo and the Royal Horse Guards, encompassing Merino
wool in each of the tableaux’s created around the venue.
Under the artistic direction of Jo Levin, British GQ Creative
Fashion Director, The English Gentleman event will celebrate
the authentic English approach to menswear, highlighting Merino
Wool yarns, fabrics and garments produced by some of the world’s
most prestigious manufacturers and tailors which demonstrate the
craftsmanship and heritage. The collaboration seeks to raise awareness
of wool’s natural performance properties and versatility across the
seasons and product categories. Merino Wool naturally ‘breathes’,
effectively regulating the wearer’s body temperature keeping them
warm in winter and cool in summer. Wool naturally absorbs moisture,
and nullifies odour, resists static electricity and provides natural UV
protection, does not ignite so is safe to wear. Merino Wool has a
natural elasticity due to the fibre crimp which helps garments resist
creasing and retain their shape, and are less likely to pill due to the
longer fibre lengths used in manufacture to ensure guaranteed garment
performance.

[15]
This live display shows the true versatility of Merino Wool and its
abundance in garment uses, richness in colour, texture and softness.
Extreme gratitude is expressed to the luxury weavers, spinners, knitters
and merchants from the UK who have supplied Merino Wool fabrics;
provided to the tailors as a contribution to the project for the creation
of the range of iconic Merino Wool and wool blend garments.
A film and still images capturing the mood and lifestyle of
The English Gentleman and military styling for Autumn/
Winter 15/16, creating a story of military tailoring and
detailing has been produced by Nick Leary Photography.
We are very grateful to Nick Leary and Glenn Leahy and the production
team, Jamal Gordon Lynch, Huw Mitchell, Miles Bugby and Toby
Wilkinson, The Royal Horse Guards and Tate Britain for
assisting in the production of this film and images.
This season The English Gentleman has a military theme and we see
him in a number of key styles visiting the tailors of Savile Row and
iconic London landmarks. The key items produced for the film include
a multi pocket and versatile utility jacket with cream Melton narrow leg
trousers, grey double breasted suit with charcoal grey great coat, tweed
3-piece suit, Covert cloth hacking jacket with Moleskin trousers, narrow
leg Cavalry Twill trousers with Melton waistcoat, tweed overcoat and
umbrella. Pieces were supplied by Chittleborough & Morgan, Gieves &
Hawkes, Welsh & Jefferies, Richard James, Emma Willis, Budd, Turnbull
& Asser, Anderson & Sheppard, Grenson and Edward Green. Each of
these essential items create the all-important capsule collection pieces
for the coming Autumn/Winter 15/16.
Filming took place at iconic locations in London including
H. Huntsman, Savile Row, Tate Britain and Horse Guards.

[16]
The Woolmark Company
Supporting London Collections: Men
Australia has provided Merino Wool to the global manufacturing industry
for over 200 years. England has always had a thriving wool trade, and cloth
has been exported from England since Roman times providing the UK with
an important trade revenue. The seat of the Lord Speaker in the House
of Lords is referred to as The Woolsack and has been used in recognition of
this thriving and important trade for the British economy since the reign of
King Edward III.
Over 200 years ago the British regimental clothier documents reference
Melton wool being used for military coats, waistcoats, trousers and breeches.
Still used today for military garments and also produced today for
updated military-style garments in lighter weights that are wearable by
today’s consumer in today’s environments, less demanding of the historic
requirements. Cavalry Twill worn by military cavalrymen throughout
history and made from Merino Wool from a worsted spun wool warp with
a woollen weft, tightly woven and then mill finished to emphasise the
double-twill lines on the face of the cloth. Cavalry Twill is selected for
its soft handle, textural surface appearance, and the variety of applications
and will see a strong upsurge in presence in updated design styles for
A/W 15/16.
This season uses these historic fabric designs and weaves in iconic and
updated styles to demonstrate the historic longevity and versatility of
Merino Wool, focussing on Meltons, Tweeds, Cavalry Twill, Flannels, Luxury
Suitings and Coatings. Introducing innovation in technology and application
through the addition of waterproof finishes to coats, wool linings and a
wool/cotton blend for shirtings. The versatility and performance of Merino
Wool is a key factor in why it has always been used across the centuries for
military uniforms, and is still used today. For Merino Wool information
please visit www.merino.com or www.woolmark.com.

[17]
THE HOUSE OF LORDS - THE WOOL SACK
Recognition of a thriving and important trade.
Photo credit: Parliamentary Art Collection

[18]
THE EXTERIOR OF APSLEY HOUSE, 1853,
1853, by J. Dillon English

[19]
History of Apsley House
Number One London
By Chris Small - Courtesy of English Heritage
The history of Apsley House goes back some four decades prior
to its purchase by the 1st Duke of Wellington on 1817. The house
was completed in 1778 for Lord Apsley, later the 2nd Earl of Bathurst,
both designed and furnished by one of the late 18th century’s leading
architects Robert Adam for a total sum of £10,000.
The Adam house still survives in part but it is encased in later work
carried out for the 1st Duke of Wellington and so very little of it is
actually visible on the outside. Many of Lord Apsley’s contemporaries
were scathing about the choice of location for the house, with one
young socialite having remarked, ‘Who will come especially so far
out of their way as Apsley House is from everything’
In the late 18th century Hyde Park Corner was the very edge of town
and adjacent to the house were the toll gates through which anyone
entering London from the west would pass. The house’s nickname of
“Number One London” was coined at this time as once through the
tollgates, Apsley House was the first house a traveller would pass.
In 1807 the house was sold to Richard, Marquess Wellesley, a former
governor-general of India and the elder brother of Arthur Wellesley
who was yet to be raised to a peerage. Having purchased the property
for £16,000 he arrived in an almost empty house as the majority of
the Adam designed furnishings had been removed by Lord Apsley.
Although Wellesley never extended the house he did redecorate
and buy sumptuous new furnishings, the cost of which totalled
around £20,000.

[20]
Finding himself in straightened financial circumstances after
a decade of lavish living at Apsley House, Marquess Wellesley
was only too glad to accept when he received an anonymous offer
of £40,000 to purchase the property. The bidder turned out to be
Wellesley’s younger brother, no longer merely Arthur Wellesley, but
now 1st Duke of Wellington and a national hero for his leadership of
the allied forces at Waterloo.
Apsley House was not Wellington’s first townhouse in London, he
and Kitty by now the 1st Duchess had lived in both Harley Street
and Hamilton Place prior to 1817. Purchasing Apsley House allowed
Wellington to own a house befitting his new found status. All around
Apsley House were the great town houses of some of Britain’s most
well established aristocratic families and if he was to equal them, he
needed a grand London home.
Wellington already had the country seat at Stratfield Saye, which
had been gifted to him from a grateful nation earlier in 1817, along
with that came a fortune of some £600,000 with which the Duke was
to build himself a new palace. This offer was not without precedence
as the same thing had been done a century before for the 1st Duke of
Marlborough with the nation’s gift of Blenheim Palace.
Plans for ‘Waterloo Palace’ were drawn up and this huge new country
house was to be the grand ducal seat for Wellington. Reflecting on
the proposals the Duke decided not to go ahead with the palace after
all, due to the huge construction and maintenance costs, which
he judged would not be able to be met from the revenue derived
from the estate in future generations. Instead, some of that fortune
intended for the new house was diverted to extending Apsley House.

[21]
The Duke called in his former private secretary, turned architect
Benjamin Dean Wyatt to complete the first phase of the
remodelling 1819. The first extension took the form of a three-storey
addition discretely placed on the east faced but far back enough so as
not to compete with the Adam frontage. Contained within this new
block were an underground stable at basement level, on the ground
floor the Duke’s own bedroom suite and immediately above on the
first floor was the new great dining room.
This grand new room allowed the 1st Duke to begin entertaining on a
more lavish scale; the dining room became the setting of the annual
Waterloo Banquet which the Duke hosted and to which were invited
the senior officers who had fought alongside him in that campaign.
On these occasions the table would have been laid with the silvergilt
Portuguese centre piece and the main course eaten from silver
plates, the whole service of a 1000 pieces gifted by Portugal, with
dessert being served on the porcelain Dresden service gifted from
King Frederick Augustus I of Saxony.
One of the earliest dinner guests to be welcomed to the new dining
room was King George IV. Turtle and venison appeared on the menu
in what the Morning Post described as, “one of the most judiciously
arranged dinners ever seen.”
All through the 1820’s the newspapers are littered with stories about
the glittering parties and dinners held by the 1st Duke and Duchess at
Apsley House, this was a necessity for a man with political ambitions
in the 19th century. In 1828 upon becoming Prime Minister, the Duke
used the opportunity of having 10 Downing Street at his disposal
to move away temporarily and have Wyatt back to further enhance
Apsley House. These alterations were to really put it on the map of
great London houses in the same class as the famous ducal homes
such as Devonshire, Bridgewater and Stafford, now Lancaster House,
Houses.

[22]
The Entrance Hall
Stepping from the bustle of Hyde Park Corner into the sudden calm of the
hall today, visitors enjoy a contrast that would have been appreciated
in the same way by the
lst Duke of Wellington’s guests and admirers.
The roaring haste of the traffic is muffled and then silenced by the
closing door. This entrance hall was created as part of the remodeling
carried out by the 1st Duke and his architect, Benjamin Dean Wyatt,
between 1828 and 1830.
The Inner Hall
This was the original entrance hall of the house, which Adam called the
‘Anti-room’. The bronze statue on its carved granite pedestal represents
the Prussian Field Marshal, Prince von Blucher, and was placed here by
Wellington as a memorial to his friend and ally against Napoleon.
Wellington Boots
The display cabinet holds a pair of Wellington Boots with black leather
uppers worn by the 1st Duke. The Duke’s boots were specifically made
for him by his shoemaker, Hoby of St. James’s Street. He had the first
pair made after his battles in the Peninsular. The boots were designed
to keep his feet dry and warm when out on the battlefield, and were
comfortable for riding. After Wellington defeated Napoleon at Waterloo,
Wellington boots became very stylish.

[23]
PRINCE BLUCHER (1742- 1819)
FIELD MARSHAL - PRUSSIAN ARMY
FIELD-MARSHAL PRINCE VON BLUCHER (1782 - 1850)
George Dawe,R.A. (1781 - 1829)
British School

[24]
Principal Staircase
Entering the stairwell visitors encounter one of the most extraordinary
works of art in Britain, the colossal marble statue Napoleon as Mars
the Peacemaker by the Italian sculptor, Antonio Canova (1757-1822).
Today the sculpture may prompt smiles because of its nudity, but to
the sculptor; then the leading artist in Europe, this was a work of great
integrity.
Commissioned by Napoleon during his period as First Consul, Canova
sought to emulate the example of antique emperors, who were shown
as gods in ideal nude form. Canova’s sculpture was carved from a single
block, with the exception of the left arm, and was finished in Rome in
1806. But it did not arrive in Paris until 1811, by which time Napoleon was
Emperor. By then in his early forties, he preferred a more modest selfimage.
Declaring it to be ‘trop athletique’, Napoleon insisted Canova’s
masterpiece remain covered up in the Louvre.
After Waterloo, Canova endeavoured to buy the sculpture back but in
1816 the British government bought it for 66,000 francs and the Prince
Regent (later King George IV) presented it to the Duke of Wellington.
Wellington could hardly refuse such a gift. He admired Napoleon and
acquired several portraits of him.

[25]
Schnieder Boots
Incorporating W & H Gidden
Traditional heavy wool cavalry twill hunt coat, lined with all wool
Tattersall check, water proof lined skirt and wind cuffs worn with
canary reversible wool Tattersall check hunt waistcoat, stretch
fabric, Pikuer hard-wearing microfibre breeches, cotton hunt shirt
and traditional Marcella hunt stock and steel point stock pin.
Riding Boots by Schnieder Boots Inc W&H Gidden
It was in 1806 that William and Henry Gidden made their first saddle.
Within 10 years, their work had become renowned throughout
England for its quality and precision. Historically, W & H Gidden has
held a Royal Warrant as Saddler to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II:
a tradition of patronage that dates from 1815, when the Duke of
Wellington rode into battle against Napoleon at Waterloo on a
Gidden saddle.

[26]
The Piccadilly Room
This room was one of Adam’s finest interiors for the house, and his
chimneypiece, ceiling and frieze still survive. The room now presents
the taste of the 1st Duke of Wellington and Benjamin Dean Wyatt,
following their modification and redecoration of the house between
1828 and 1830.
On the wall opposite the windows hangs the painting by David Wilkie,
Chelsea Pensioners Reading the Waterloo Despatch. Outside
Chelsea Hospital on 22 June 1815, a Chelsea Pensioner reads aloud the
Gazette of Waterloo, the official account of victory over Napoleon.
Among some 50 figures there are more than 15 character studies,
including a black dog known as ‘the Old Duke’, which followed the Blues
regiment through Spain. Wellington commissioned this painting in 1816,
The year after Waterloo, as ‘a parcel of old soldiers at some publichouse
in the King’s Road, Chelsea’. He must have intended it as a tribute
to his troops, in the manner of the anecdotal Dutch genre paintings
he was buying in Paris at that time, many of which still hang in this
room today.

[27]
Shoes by Gaziano and Girling
Tattersall check shirts and accessories by Budd Shirtmakers
unless otherwise stated
1. Chester Barrie
Single-breasted green and brown tweed wool coat worn with
Abraham Moon & Sons wool khaki Cavalry Twill trousers.
2. Chester Barrie
Single-breasted three piece dark green with a navy windowpane
check wool suit, double breasted waistcoat, flat fronted trousers.
Shirt and accessories by Budd
3. Chester Barrie
Single-breasted bottle green and navy tweed wool jacket worn with
Abraham Moon & Sons wool khaki Cavalry Twill trousers.
4. Chittleborough and Morgan
Bespoke single-breasted Lovat tweed sports jacket worn with Dugdale
beige Cavalry Twill wool trousers.
5. Henry Poole
Bespoke double-breasted Lovat over check Cheviot tweed wool
overcoat. Patch pocket with flaps and turn back cuffs on the coat
worn with Hield Brothers Cavalry Twill wool straight top trousers,
turn up bottoms and slanted pockets.
6. Richard Anderson
Bespoke single - breasted, notch lapel Lovat tweed wool with red
overcheck topcoat, three buttons, single vent, two slanting flap
pockets and outside slanted ticket pocket.Worn with Hield Brothers
wool oatmeal fishtail backs, flat front, side straight pockets, plain
bottoms Cavalry Twill trousers.
7. Richard James
Single breasted brown with red windowpane three piece Taylor &
Lodge wool suit.

[28]
Portico Drawing Room
This room takes its present name from the Corinthian portico added
to the exterior of the House in 1828, when Benjamin Dean Wyatt
encased the brick building in Bath stone. Identified by Adam as the ‘2nd
Drawing Room’, this room was originally designed to make the most of
the house’s
exceptional setting.
Before Wellington and Wyatt added on the Waterloo Gallery, the wall
facing the fireplace would have afforded a fine prospect out across
Hyde Park from three windows. Facing west, the room would have
been filled with sunlight in the afternoon and, as the south wall was
solid, none of the noise from Piccadilly would have intruded on the
illusion of a country-house saloon. At night, candlelight shone from
gilded candelabra on torcheres decorated with seated griffin, designed
to match the pier glasses (which are today on loan from the Duke of
Wellington’s family).

[29]
Coppi Barbieri - Photography
Lucilla Barbieri and Fabrizio Coppi form the Still Life photographic team
Coppi Barbieri.They started their collaboration in 1990 in Milan. They
were one of the first teams to form a continious and solid collaboration
in photography. Since then, more than 20 years later they still find in
each other fun and inspiration. Based in London since 1996 they have
realised projects in different parts of the world from NewYork to Rio,
Paris, Tokyo, Madrid, Milan, Arizona etc..
They started as Interiors photographers then brought their elegant vision
in different fields: fashion, Still Life, jewellery, food, cars and beauty.
Advertising commissions include work for Audi, B+B Italia, Bulgari,
Burberry, Cartier, DeBeers, Estee Lauder, Fendi, Gucci, Louis Vuitton,
Mercedes, Nike, Issey Miyake, Sony, Volvo, VW and award winning
campaigns for Absolut Vodka and Stella Artois. They have an established
working relationship with Cartier for their “LOVE’ brand. September
2011 sees the unveiling of the latest Van Cleef and Arpel’s campaign
shot by the duo entitled “Even nature will be charmed” which wins the
number one award at the Grand Prix de la Publicite’. Since 2009 they
have had a relationship with Louis Vuitton for which they have shot
special projects such as the launch of their High Jewellery boutique
in Place Vendome. Their work has been published in magazines like
L’Uomo, Vogue, Italian Vogue, Vogue, Nippon, GQ, New York Times,
T magazine, V magazine, Wallpaper*, W, World of Interiors and Grey
magazine. Coppi Barbieri’s work has been exhibited at the International
Center of Photography in New York City in Spring 2009 in the show
“Weird beauty in Fashion”. Besides their commissioned projects they
continue their personal research on different subjects, lately producing
a series of close ups of birds and a series of broken glass objects. They
like to describe their vision as naturalistic and always find inspirations
and amazement in nature.

[30]
]
THE BATTLE OF WATERLOO
Sir William Allan (1782 - 1850)
British School

[[31]
]
[ 13 ]
Copyright English Heritage. The Wellington Collection.
The artist’s own description of the picture is pasted on the back of the panel:
Waterloo. 18th June 1815. Half-past seven o’clock p.m.The picture represents the last
desperate effort of Napoleon to force the left centre of the allied army and turn
their position.

[32]
The Waterloo Gallery
Where the annual Waterloo Dinners for survivors of
the Battle and Royal guests were traditionally held
from 1828 onwards
Stepping through Wyatt’s doorway from the Portico Drawing Room,
visitors discover one of the great palatial interiors of Britain. More than
28m (90ft) long, the magnificent gallery fills two storeys and stretches
beyond the back of the original house by two window bays in its own
extension built between 1828 and 1829.
The Duke of Wellington had several reasons for such an impressive space.
The main purpose of the gallery may have been to accommodate the
Waterloo Banquet, an annual dinner held at Apsley House to celebrate
the defeat of Napoleon. In the early years, before the Waterloo Gallery
was created, Wellington hosted a select gathering; in 1821, for example,
the guest list included King George IV, most of the royal Dukes and
foreign ambassadors, and Wellington’s own generals who had fought
with him at Waterloo. Rather than see the numbers of veteran generals
dwindle with the passing years, Wellington expanded his guest list to
include those younger officers
present at the battle who later rose
to the same rank. The Waterloo Gallery could seat 85 for ceremonial
banquets. King William IV was guest of honour in 1830 and the dinner
continued annually until the Duke’s death in 1852. The Waterloo Gallery
also raised Apsley House from an an aristocratic house to palatial status,
Befitting the foreign princes and politicians the Duke received there.

[33]
Shoes by Edward Green
Shirt and accessories by Turnbull and Asser
1. Anderson & Sheppard
Bespoke double-breasted, 32oz greatcoat in Abraham Moon & Sons
navy British Warm wool, two patch pockets with flaps, slit at the
back, box pleat to back seam, half belt and turn back cuffs.
2. Anderson & Sheppard
Bespoke double-breasted Trench coat in Loro Piana waterproof
Rainstorm treated mid brown wool, fly front, box pleat, belt, two
patch pockets with flaps, map pocket and lined in Loro Piana fine
grey wool flannel, worn with wool Cavalry Twill trousers.
3. Chittleborough and Morgan
Bespoke single-breasted greatcoat in Scabal Herringbone 22oz wool
fabric .
4. Ede and Ravenscroft
Single-breasted, pure lamb’s wool Herringbone overcoat with raglan
sleeves, concealed placket and Alcantara leather-trimmed under
collar with burgundy satin lining; quilted top half.
5. Edward Sexton
Bespoke light fawn Holland and Sherry wool cashmere blend Trench
coat with suede detailing, worn with Dugdale vintage style brace top
Cavalry Twill trousers.
6. Gieves and Hawkes
Double breasted wool overcoat with patch pockets, half back belt,
centre buttoned vent.
7. Henry Poole
Bespoke double-breasted, classic British warm 25oz overcoat in Very
English Weaving Company navy wool twill, with epaulettes and
chestnut leather buttons.
8. H. Huntsman
Bespoke double-breasted grey Dugdale wool greatcoat with
epaulettes, half belt and military tarnished silver buttons.

[34]
The Waterloo Gallery cont.
Shoes by Edward Green
Shirt and accessories by Turnbull and Asser
9. Lutwyche
Double breatsted Hainsworth Thorn wool Cavalry Twill Trench coat
with three inch gauntlet turn back cuffs and pointed epaulettes with
finished button holes, and Lutwyche burgundy lining. worn with
plain front and side fastening Cavalry Twill trousers with extension
front.
10. Richard James
Double- breasted Airforce coating, Fox Brothers navy wool overcoat.

[35]
The Waterloo Gallery cont.
WATERLOO GALLERY – WHITE TIE
Shoes by G. J. Cleverley
Shirt and accessories by Emma Willis unless otherwise
stated.
1. Anderson & Sheppard
Bespoke pure wool black barathea dress coat and trousers cloth by
H. Lesser worn with white Marcella vest, white dress shirt with stiff
front and detachable collar by Budd and white Marcella bow tie.
2. Ede and Ravenscroft
Pure wool black evening tailcoat with grosgrain-trimmed peaked
lapel and buttons, fully lined in silk. Worn with pure wool black
evening trousers with fishtail waist and grosgrain double braiding,
Semi stiff front white cotton tunic shirt with Marcella front panel
and single link cuffs and white Marcella cotton backless waistcoat
with adjustable straps and removable Mother of Pearl buttons
3. Gieves and Hawkes
Midnight blue super 180’s wool, cashmere, vicuna tailcoat with black
silk satin facings and black polished horn buttons worn with white
cotton Marcella waistcoat and black dress trousers.
4. Henry Poole
Bespoke three-piece dress suit with corded silk facing and black
velvet top collar worn with a Marcella waistcoat and black trousers
with double braid and brace top.
5. H. Huntsman
Vintage corded silk satin facing dress tails, corded silk satin covered
buttons, two buttons at the back, four button cuff worn with a white
Marcella vest, and fish tail dress trousers with double braid on the
legs.
6. Lutwyche
Classic Vitale Barberis Canonico wool White Tie and evening tail coat
with high rise ‘English-Cut’, forward facing trousers with pinstripe
side grosgrain detailing and white Marcella waistcoat.

[36]
Yellow Drawing Room
The second door in the Waterloo Gallery leads back into the original
house, built by Adam. In Adam’s plan this room is called simply the
‘3rd drawing Room or Toillet Room’. His original marble fireplace
still survives, together with some of his designs for the fittings and
furnishings of the room, including one drawing for a table frame
and top and another for an exquisite watch
case for Lady Bathurst,
a personal trophy to fashion where her watch could luxuriate
overnight. In the 1st Dukes day this room was used as a drawing
room.
Grand Piano - Americus Backers, 1772
This is the oldest surviving grand piano in the United
Kingdom it was made by Americus Backers in 1772 in
London. Backers was the most significant maker of the
early’ piano forte’ and his designs influenced Stodart and
Broadwood.
Backers was Dutch and set up his London workshop in the very
fashionable Jermyn Street where he produced 7 grand pianos, this is
the only one that survives. The Backers does not look like a modern
grand piano, it looks more like a harpsichord. The difference
between a piano and harpsichord is that the strings of a piano are
struck rather than plucked, which produces a greater resonance.
The Backers also differed from a harpsichord in that you have more
control over the sound by the use of the two pedals and has a greater
number of octaves, 7 rather than 5. Although this piano has a long
history in the Wellesley family it is not known whether it was bought
by Wellington or by his wife Kitty, 1st Duchess of Wellington.

[37]
Shoes by Edward Green
1. Anderson & Sheppard
Bespoke single breasted three button wool hacking jacket in fawn
Fox Brothers Covert cloth exclusive to Anderson and Sheppard with
slits at the back, slanting pockets, out ticket pocket and velvet collar.
Worn with slim leg Moleskin trousers.
2. Chester Barrie
Single breasted three-button wool hacking jacket in 16oz Covert cloth
worn with slim-legged brown cotton Ottoman moleskin trousers.
3. Henry Poole
Bespoke single-breasted three button hacking jacket in super 100’s
and cashmere blend 17oz Henry Poole exclusive Covert topcoating
with chestnut leather buttons and interior pocket to fit an iPad mini
and burgundy velvet collar worn with brown Moleskin 20oz trousers
with cross pockets.
4. H. Huntsman
Bespoke single breasted two button hacking jacket in Dormeuil buff
Covert wool cloth, velvet top tab collar, patch pockets with flap,
flap hole and button welt pocket half belt with two buttons, four
button cuff and double vent worn with taupe Moleskin trousers with
adjustable strap and buckle.
5. Richard James
Single-breasted two button charcoal grey hacking jacket in Covert
wool cloth with plum velvet collar, worn with navy Moleskin trousers.
6. Welsh and Jefferies
Bespoke single breasted wool hacking jacket in light brown Standeven
wool Covert coating with four button front, tab and button collar,
centre vent and two slanting cross pockets with flaps and an out
ticket pocket worn with brown tapered Moleskin trousers.

[38]
The Striped
Drawing Room
In the original house designed by Robert Adam, a dressing room, a
servant’s room and a bedroom completed the circuit of fine rooms on
the first floor Wyatt combined these three rooms to make the present
Striped Drawing Room at the same time as the addition in 1820 of
the State Dining Room that lies beyond, thus providing Wellington
with a room where his guests could relax, before or after dinner and
where the duke couId also display his growing collection of portraits.
Card tables covered with green cloth were provided, for playing loo
and ecarte, together with a board for draughts and backgammon,
ivory dice boxes and table lamps.
This room also became a personal hall of fame to Wellington’s
military friends and might have been inspired by his visit to St
Petersburg in 1826, where he would have seen the gallery that Tsar
Nicholas I was building in his Winter Palace for portraits of heroes
of the Napoleonic War. The three full-length portraits by Thomas
Lawrence, still on display in the room today, were planned as part
of a series, but after the artist died the duke had to resort to buying
pictures by other artists to complete his gallery of military heroes.
To accompany the portraits of his friends, Wellington bought the
panoramic painting, The Battle of Waterloo (1843) by Sir William
Allan (1782-1850). When Wellington saw this painting exhibited at
the Royal Academy he remarked, ‘Good, not too much Smoke,’ and
reserved it for his collection. The painting shows the battle from
the point of view of the French Army, at 7.30pm on 18 June 1815.
Napoleon can be seen in the foreground at the right of the picture,
mounted on his white charger; while Wellington is a tiny figure in
the middle distance to the left, on his faithful chestnut, Copenhagen.

[39]
Shoes by Grenson and Schnieder Boots Inc W&H Gidden
All trousers made with Dugdale Cavalry Twill fabric
Shirt by Emma Willis.
1. Anderson & Sheppard
Bespoke wool Cavalry Twill trousers with grown on band and split
tails worn.
2. Chittleborough and Morgan
Wool cavalry twill trousers. Worn with bespoke Hainsworth wool
Doeskin vest.
3. Henry Poole
Brace back, half band wool Cavalry twill Trousers worn with bespoke
single-breasted Holland and Sherry Saxe blue, wool felt post boy vest
with cats eye buttons .
4. H. Huntsman
Bespoke wool Cavalry Twill jodhpurs, button fastenings at the ankles.
5. Richard James
Bespoke Cavalry Twill brace top trousers, fish tail backs, flat fronts,
straight side pockets, plain bottoms.

[40]
The State Dining Room
This grand dining room was finished in 1819 by Benjamin Dean
Wyatt. Up to this point, the duke and his guests had dined downstairs.
Wellington built his new State Dining Room as part of a three-storey
addition to the north-east of Apsley House. Below were the duke’s
apartments; above, on the third storey, there were two bedrooms, all
linked by new back stairs. The State Dining Room was the setting for
the great annual Waterloo Banquet from 1820 until the completion of
the Waterloo Gallery ten years later. On its inauguration, this dining
room must have seemed the ultimate expression of Wellington’s
ambitions to entertain in style. The arrangement of the room today
gives some impression of the magnificence of the Waterloo Banquet.
The glittering centerpiece on display here today is part of a silver and
silver-gilt service presented to Wellington by the Portuguese Council
of Regency in 1816, to commemorate victories over Napoleon in the
Peninsular War (1808-14). In the centre, figures representing the
four continents pay tribute to the united armies of Portugal, Britain
and Spain while dancing nymphs encircle them. Battles are named
on individual plaques. The full Portuguese Service comprises more
than 1,000 pieces and was designed by the court painter Domingos
Antonio de Sequeira (1768-1857), and made at the artist’s house from
1812 to 1816 by workers from the Military Arsenal at Lisbon.

[41]
THE WATERLOO GALLERY - STATE DINING ROOM 1853
Reproduced in ‘Apsley House and Walmer Castle’
By Richard Ford (1796 - 1858)

[42]
]
CHELSEA PENSIONERS READING THE WATERLOO DESPATCH
Sir David WILKIE R.A. (1785 - 1841)
Scottish School

[[43]
]
[ 13 ]
Copyright English Heritage. The Wellington Collection.
The picture is set in Jew’s Row off the King’s Road, Chelsea, with the Chelsea Hospital
on the left. The soldiers pore over the Duke of Wellington’s despatch dated 19 June,
which was reprinted in a special number of the London Gazette on 22 June 1815.

[44]
Chivas and the
Tailors of Savile Row
Chivas deluxe blended Scotch whisky and Savile Row
Bespoke Association have come together as partners to continue
to support and celebrate heritage, modern craftsmanship and style.
Both Chivas and Savile Row share values and skills that
have continued unbroken for over two centuries, representing
contemporary symbols of discernment, quality and luxury.
Chivas’ heritage dates back to 1801, when the Chivas Brothers
founded a luxury grocery store, from which they pioneered the
craft of creating the world’s most coveted, smooth and rich blended
whiskies. James and John Chivas strongly believed that the
power of a whisky lay in achieving a consistently high standard. Born
from the investment of time and skills passed down from generation
to generation Chivas remains a contemporary mark of discernment,
style and luxury.
The tailors’ individually styled English Gentleman are complemented
by a selection of bespoke Chivas cocktails developed specifically
for Savile Row Bespoke; inspired by style and heritage, blending
the round, creamy and full taste of Chivas 12 year old with the finest
cocktail ingredients.
Since the launch of the partnership in the autumn of 2013, Chivas
and Savile Row Bespoke Association have joined forces to
develop events and activities to inspire appreciation for the art and
heritage of tailoring, and the importance of style across London
and beyond. Activities will continue over the course of the year,
bringing modern gentleman and discerning drinkers sartorial tips,
exclusive offers and only the very finest whisky.
Sign-up to the Chivas Society for exclusive offers and content at:
WWW.CHIVAS.COM/SAVILEROW
/CHIVASREGALUK
#CHIVASSAVILEROW

[45]
Copyright English Heritage. The Wellington Collection.
Equestrian Portrait of the 1st Duke of Wellington
Francisco de Goya (1746 - 1828)
Spanish School

[46]
The English Gentleman
recommends
Capstar Chauffeurs
Capstar Chauffeurs is a premium chauffeur company employing
former servicemen and women from the British Armed Forces.
Capstar is the first commercial venture of its kind to actively train
and recruit former servicemen and women who have been wounded,
providing employment in an industry where an injured soldier can
compete on equal terms. Our mission is to inspire ex-service personnel
who are injured, disabled or facing adversity, providing them with a
new career and a certain future.
The company is continually expanding the fleet of cars at clients’
disposal. The classic British quality and style of Jaguar Land Rover
made the brand a natural choice to be their vehicle provider,
and their fleet of Jaguar XJs ensure an elegant and comfortable
journey. They can also provide any number of different vehicles for
particular requests, including luxury 4x4s and MPVs. Alternatively
if you would like your own car driven by one of our Capstar drivers,
you only need ask. Many of our drivers hold shotgun licenses for
your convenience.
Capstar takes tremendous pride in delivering a faultless service every
time. Attention to detail is paramount, together with efficiency and
discretion. Every journey is unique and important, so whatever the
occasion, Capstar aims to exceed your expectations.

[47]
Our Drivers
Our chauffeurs and operations team are ex-British armed forces
personnel, drawn from all three services. Some have had life changing
injuries and all have extensive military ex perience ranging from
combat operations or ceremonial du ties such as the Olympic Games
and the Royal Wedding. Whatever their background you know that
you will be driven by an individual with a unique set of qualities
which places Capstar above all other competitors in this market.
All drivers hold Transport for London operator’s licenses and
chauffeur training courses as a minimum. Capstar can also provide
individuals who have the highest qualifications in close protection
and advanced driving, as drivers or front seat passengers, as an
additional service.
Our Service
Capstar’s service is built around the core military values
of integrity, loyalty, discipline and trust. These qualities
ensure we provide an outstanding chauf feur experience to
corporate and private clients looking for an unparalleled
level of service in London and the South East.
You will find no oth er chauffeur firm with such perfect
turnout and under standing of how important timeliness
really is.
Please get in touch by telephone, email or our website
to make a booking or an enquiry.T: +44 (0) 208 568 7902
E:bookings@capstarchauffeurs.com www.capstarchauffeurs.com
Capstar Chauffeurs Limited The Farmhouse, Syon Park, Brentford,
Middlesex TW8 8JF

[48]
[10 ]
STYLE FOR SOLDIERS
BY EMMA WILLIS

[ [49] 491]

[50]

[51]
Style For Soldiers
In gratitude for the courage and
sacrifice of our service men
and women, Emma visits Headley
Rehabilitation Centre for the
injured to make the patients a
complimentary bespoke shirt
in our luxury cottons. We also
give to those who use them, of
whom there are many, a hand
carved ebony walking stick
with a buffalo horn handle, and
silver band engraved with their
regiment and initials. They are
extremely appreciative, taking
great trouble to choose their
fabrics and style of shirt, and
there is always excitement when
we arrive with the finished shirts
and sticks. We have received
many moving letters and emails
of thanks, when of course they
are the ones to be thanked.
Patron Lisa Armstrong, Fashion
Editor of the Telegraph, and
Ambassador David Gandy play
a valuable role bringing work
experience and job opportunities
in the fashion business, and
attending the popular Christmas
reunion parties.
So far we have funded the
cost of the shirts and sticks
with generous donations from
customers and friends. In order
to continue making as many
shirts and sticks as possible we
would be grateful for further
donations.
Donations can be made by
sending a cheque payable
to ‘Style for Soldiers’ and
to us at Emma Willis,
66 Jermyn Street, London,
SW1Y 6NY, Or for online
donations please visit www.
styleforsoldiers.com. ALL
proceeds go to making
shirts and sticks, not
towards any administration
costs.
We were honoured to have
received support from Their
Royal Highnesses The Prince
of Wales and The Duchess of
Cornwall, as well as a Morale
Award from the British Forces
Foundation, and nominated for
the Sun Military Awards 2010 for
Support to The Armed Forces for
our Style for Soldiers incentive.
Emma Willis was appointed
MBE for her services to
entrepreneurship in the
New Year’s Honours list .

[52]

[53]
The Household Cavalry
Foundation
The Household Cavalry Foundation (HCF) was set up in January
2013 to raise much needed funds to care for the Casualties, Soldiers,
Veterans, Heritage and Horses of the Household Cavalry.
Famous worldwide for both outstanding pageantry and gallantry on
the battlefield, the same soldiers seen on parade on state occasions
also risk their lives for our country on the front line.
All donations are used to support all the Household Cavalry family
welfare requirements; which is particularly important as troops have
been drawn down from Afghanistan and our thoughts turn to the
future, where we need to be able to prepare for not just the physical
injuries but the long term psychological injuries.
Twitter: @TheHCF
Facebook: /householdcavalryfoundation
Instagram: @householdcavalryfoundation
Website: www.hcavfoundation.org

[54]
Huntsman is proud to be a partner and supporter of the English
Gentleman at Apsley House. As a founding member of the Savile
Row Bespoke Association and one of the Row’s pre-eminent tailoring
houses, the company’s role within men’s tailoring and the greater
global menswear stage continues with a strength and vitality that
has ensured its 165 year story continues. Established in 1849 by Henry
Huntsman, the firm moved to its current premises on Savile Row in 1919
and has remained firmly installed on the site through to present day.
Employing a team of over 35 cutters and tailors on its premises, all of
the company’s bespoke clothing is hand cut and hand sewn in house,
with an unerring attention to detail and quality throughout. Blending
traditional techniques with the sophisticated cloths of today, precision
is paramount and the backbone of the company’s reputation for beautiful
craftsmanship and style. The company’s heritage is brought to life not
only within its archive and history visible throughout 11 Savile Row, but
in the uncompromised tailoring produced by the firm today, where the
techniques and craftsmanship passed through generations is as relevant
to our present day tailoring as it was in 1849. Huntsman continues to
run an established apprenticeship programme in order to safeguard and
preserve this methodology and recognition of exacting standards for
generations to come.
Huntsman’s iconic house style is timeless, cutting a dash on today’s
modern gentleman and underpinning the elegance of its loyal customers,
young and old. Purveyors of the original one button coat, first
conceived in the 1940s, the balance and line of the company’s coats sums
up the skill of its tailors and lends for a flattering, waisted coat with a
firm shoulder and quintessentially British silhouette. It combined the
company’s strong equestrian and military heritage with the elegance of
evening wear, blending the exacting lines of a hacking jacket with the
single button fastening of a dinner jacket.

[55]
Huntsman’s clothing has graced the shoulders of Lords and Ladies, Kings & Queens,
Captains of Industry and stars of stage and screen. Illustrious patrons over the
years have included Queen Victoria, King Edward VII, Gregory Peck, Lawrence
Olivier, Cecil Beaton, Hardy Amies Gianni Agnelli and Katharine Hepburn, through
to major style icons of today; the company continuing to dress a Who’s Who of
influencers across the world.
The current centenary commemorations of the First World War are particularly
poignant for Huntsman. The company’s ledger books pay testament to the hundreds
of customers that fought in the war, poignant notes within each tome detailing
many of the individuals’ stories. 2014 saw the company relaunch the British
Warm Overcoat. First worn by officers during World War One, the coat endures
seamlessly today and is a fitting tribute to the noble sacrifices of the firm’s staff
and patrons during the conflicts of the last century.
Huntsman’s distinctive house tweeds and suitings are almost as recognisable as its
house style. They play a prominent role within its tailoring portfolio and contribute
towards the brand’s strong DNA. Bold checks, woven in the Hebrides are recognised
by menswear aficionados the world over and exclusive, gutsy suitings thoroughly
fulfil the composed, Savile Row brief of distinction, comfort and elegance.
Today Huntsman is run under the guidance of Creative Director, Roubi L’Roubi.
Passionate in his preservation of the company’s heritage and DNA, L’Roubi works
tirelessly to ensure that tradition and modernity are met in equal measure. Beyond
conserving and promoting Huntsman’s flagship bespoke work, the last two years
have seen the redevelopment and launch of the company’s ready to wear collections,
enhancing the block and broadening the range available to customers. Faithful to
the one button style house style, the collections offer a broader spectrum of cloths
and interesting yet wearable styling details such as curved peak lapels, half lined
coats and discreet yet interesting textures to up both the tactile and aesthetic
ante. Each collection of ready to wear tailoring is complimented by a full range of
shirts, knitwear and accessories, again designed by L’Roubi and drawing inspiration
from Huntsman’s archive and the English gentleman, not only of yesteryear, but
of today, incorporating the lifestyle of the modern man. 2014 witnessed the
introduction of Huntsman’s first wholesale collection and an expansion of its trunk
show programme across Europe and the United States.
Huntsman, 11 Savile Row, London W1S 3PS
Tel: 020 7734 7441 shop@h-huntsman.co.uk

[56]
Tailors
Anderson & Sheppard
Anderson & Sheppard has been a leading Savile Row firm from its
beginnings in 1906. The fluid style of Per Anderson, trained by the great
Frederick Scholte, was from the start the distinguishing feature of the
house. Concern with the easy movement and natural body line continues
into the 21st Century thanks to an unbroken transmission of skills.
Today, many icons of male elegance rely on Anderson & Sheppard. Its
distinctive house style is softer and less constructed than its neighbours’,
as comfortable as it is elegant. They currently hold the Royal Warrant for
HRH The Prince of Wales.
Chester Barrie
Established in the 1930s Chester Barrie was one of the first to offer readyto-wear
tailoring, providing the same attention to detail and commitment
to quality as the old bespoke houses on Savile Row but making great
tailoring more accessible.
This ‘belief in the best’ continues to this day - though much else has moved
on. The way men dress has changed dramatically and so too has Chester
Barrie. Lighter fabrics, innovative blends and a far softer structure have
ushered in a more relaxed form of dressing, which Chester Barrie has
embraced. The aim always is to be the Modern Tailor to the Modern Man.

[57]
Chittleborough & Morgan
Chittleborough & Morgan are traditional bespoke tailors of Savile
Row, London. Roy Chittleborough and Joe Morgan are the skill and
craftsmanship that gave life to the glorious suits of the legendary Tommy
Nutter at Nutters of Savile Row.
Now at their own firm, they are the only place that has a direct link to this
iconic piece of sartorial history. Roy and Joe are still personally involved
in each and every suit tailored at Chittleborough & Morgan.
Ede & Ravenscroft
Ede & Ravenscroft is thought to be the oldest firm of tailors in the world.
In 1689, the area of London now known as Aldwych, was the bustling
centre of the tailoring trade. In that year a respected tailoring family,
the Shudalls, started a business that was to become Ede & Ravenscroft.
The quality of their work won them the honour of creating the robes
for the coronation of Their Majesties William and Mary. They soon
became a recognised supplier to the royal family, going on to produce a
large number of ceremonial robes for the coronation of His Majesty King
George III. Ede & Ravenscroft has been tailors and robemakers of choice
for twelve coronations. Today the firm continues to service royalty, the
judiciary, civic authorities, academia and business.
A new range of contemporary and traditional men’s tailoring offers
enduringly fashionable clothing with a perfectly tailored modern twist.

[58]
Edward Sexton
Like Lennon and McCartney, Edward Sexton’s name is inextricably linked
with the late Tommy Nutter. Together they opened their shop Nutters
which revolutionised Savile Row. Tommy was the witty, charming front
man. Edward was the master cutter who took Tommy’s ideas and made
them a reality.
Edward was only sixteen when he began as an apprentice. Ferociously
ambitious, he spent his days learning from the master of bespoke tailoring
and his nights at the London College of Fashion. In 1967 he joined
Donaldson, Williams and Ward in the Burlington Arcade where he cut for
customers such as the Royal House of Luxembourg. The young Tommy
Nutter was working there as a front of house salesman, and a relationship
which was to transform the men’s tailoring business was born.
Gieves & Hawkes
Savile Row during the second half of the 19th century began to gain its
reputation for tailoring and style. It came as no surprise therefore that
Hawkes, the most prestigious military and court tailors in London, bought
the building at No. 1.
With the arrival of Hawkes in 1913 and the company’s later partnership
with the great naval house of Gieves, there begins a story extraordinarily
intertwined with that of its previous owners. Four hundred and fifty
years of shared experience and knowledge and one amazing location.
The customer entering Number 1 Savile Row, seeking the finest levels of
craftsmanship and personal service, discovers a world of quality, attention
to detail and passion for the sartorial arts.

[59]
Henry Poole & Co
For generations clients throughout the world have experienced the truly
bespoke experience on which Henry Poole & Co prides itself. Each client
has his own individual patterns and all items are made on the premises at
15 Savile Row.
The showroom offers an extensive variety of over 6,000 cloth swatches
which range from luxury worsted wool and cashmere suitings originating
from mills in Huddersfield, Yorkshire, to rich flannels from the West
Country and pure cashmere, together with fine tweeds from the Islands and
Scottish Borders. Henry Poole is renowned for providing classic, elegant and
superbly cut bespoke garments. The garments flexible attitude to styling
and the use of the highest quality cloths make every piece truly unique.
Lutwyche
Lutwyche produces luxurious hand-crafted menswear, using tradition all
English artisan techniques that are honed for the 21st century. Offering
Ready-To-Wear, Made-To-Measure and Bespoke tailoring, all of the
clothing is individually hand-cut, made and hand-finished in its own
unique workshop in England. The commitment to the highest level of
craftsmanship is combined with elegant styling, to produce clothing that
defines luxury tailoring for the 21st century.

[60]
Maurice Sedwell
Established in Fleet Street, London in 1938, Maurice Sedwell went on
to win the Gold Medal from the Tailor & Cutter Academy competing
with the best tailors in the land. In 1994 Maurice Sedwell Limited
expanded into elegant, larger premises at No 19, in response to the
increasing demand for their services. They are justifiably proud of
their hard-earned reputation for excellent client care, precise, allround
service and meticulous attention to detail is what endears
them to their clients, many of whom return time and time again.
Their commitment to the ideals of exacting craftsmanship coupled with
customer service resulted in their referral to, and subsequent membership
of, The Guild of Master Craftsmen. They became the first Savile Row tailor
to receive the Guild’s accolade for Quality & Service and their Armorial
Bearing for Skill & Integrity.
Richard James Bespoke
Since 1992 Richard James has quickly established a reputation for itself
as a leading luxury brand that has set the standard for contemporary
tailoring and menswear.
The first of the ‘New Establishment’ tailors on Savile Row, Richard
James is proud to have contributed to revitalising what has long been
acknowledged as the world centre for tailoring with its bold, progressive
take on the timeless and traditional.
Their philosophy is to produce classic clothing of unsurpassable quality,
and to push the boundaries through design, colour and cut. Service and
expertise is also integral to Richard James. And so too is craftsmanship
- they work closely with the best woollen mills and the most exacting
artisans in Britain and Italy to design and produce their exclusive fabrics
and handmade accessories.

[61]
Welsh & Jefferies
Welsh and Jefferies opened in the early twentieth century on Eton High
Street, and during the First World War the company built a reputation as
a formidable military tailor. The firm made uniforms for the officers of
many regiments, such as the Rifle Brigade and Coldstream Guards.
Welsh and Jefferies is a small but neat shop situated at number 20 Savile
Row. In January 2012 the business was taken over by James Cottrell who
has been working at Welsh and Jefferies for 7 years and his partner
Yingmei Quan.

[62]
Shirts & Accessories
Budd
Budd is delighted to support the English Gentleman at Apsley House.
Located in Piccadilly Arcade since the companies inception in 1910. Budd
has been making bespoke, made to measure and ready to wear shirts from
its Mayfair and Hampshire workshops for over 100 years. As well as shirts,
the company specialises in gentlemen’s haberdashery, carry an extensive
range of dresswear, nightwear, ties, exceptional bows, socks and braces.
The company is passionate in celebrating and supporting British craft and
workmanship with all of its product sourced in the UK and are proud to
stock many menswear items that are tricky to find today, such as waistcoat
slips, stiff bibbed shirts, detachable collars and the softest chamois gloves.
Emma Willis
Emma Willis, English shirt maker in London, trained at the Slade School
of Art before starting her business in 1987, designing and making mens
luxury shirts, all made in England. In 1999 she opened her elegant and
intimate shop in Jermyn Street, on the corner of St James and in 2010 her
English shirt making factory opened in the centre of historic Gloucester.
Her philosophy is to adhere to traditional English shirt making techniques,
using luxurious Italian and Swiss Cottons, Silks and Linens, many of which
are exclusive to her collections.

[63]
Turnbull & Asser
Turnbull & Asser was established in London in 1885 and has stood proudly as
Britain’s leading shirt maker and men’s outfitter since that time. Their shirts
are crafted by expert, skilled craftspeople, all of whom are based in England.
They carefully select fabrics and use traditional techniques to ensure fit,
comfort, style and durability. Established on Jermyn Street in 1903 and since
then have retained everything that makes this distinctive area of London,
and this shop offers a unique: warm, discreet, personal service, exceptionally
skilled and knowledgeable staff and unparalleled quality. Turnbull & Asser
now has stores in four locations, including one in New York, and a global
presence but has never lost sight of the inimitably British style and sense
of luxury that stands it apart. Throughout their 130-year history customers
have come from the very highest echelons of society and their clientele is
as illustrious now as it ever has been. A proud holder of a Royal Warrant
from the Prince of Wales for shirt making, they have dressed world leaders,
politicians, royalty, film stars, and style icons including James Bond. In
fact, thanks to Turnbull & Asser’s extensive archive, costume designers
everywhere know they can be relied upon to dress cinema’s most recognisable
characters in the most fitting way for their time and temperament. A dresser
of the world’s most eminent men, Turnbull & Asser is ultimately a supplier
of fine, handcrafted shirts, ties and accessories to the discerning men of the
world. Men with individual style, taste and an appreciation for heritage.
Ogden of Harrogate
The Ogden family have been stewards of their distinguished jewellery
business since 1893, serving customers from Yorkshire as well as generations
of both royal and public figures, it has a growing international reputation
for fine jewellery and period pieces. The company is now run by the
fourth and fifth generations of the family. The historic workshop above
Ogden of Harrogate’s beautiful showroom is home to a designer and
working jewellers who are able to re-model, repair, design, reproduce,
engrave and create pieces to the customer’s exact specifications.

[64]
Shoes
G. J. Cleverley
George Cleverley was born on the 10th of August 1898 into a shoemaking
family in London. George moved to Colchester in Essex with his parents
when he was aged two and spent his childhood selling bootlaces & polish.
After finishing his apprenticeship at 15, he was called up to the Army for
World War I and stationed in London before joining an army boot factory
in Calais, France. After the war he joined Tuczec, a high society London
shoemaker on Clifford Street, Mayfair. He remained there for 38 years.
George left Tuczec in 1958 to start up his own business. G.J. Cleverley
of Cork Street, Mayfair, London. For over 50 years G.J. Cleverley &
Co is where you will find the best of bespoke English shoemaking and
craftsmanship. Situated in the beautiful 19th century Royal Arcade just
off Old Bond Street, Cleverley is at the heart of London. A pair of George
Cleverley’s bespoke shoes are a work of art, individual to their owner.
They are created by the close teamwork of specialized craftsmen, all of
whom have served long apprenticeships to acquire their particular skills.
Edward Green
Edward Green have been making the finest goodyear welted shoes in
Northampton since 1890. Meticulously crafted from hand-finished natural
burnishing calfskin for their signature handsome patina, Edward Greens
are a perfect accompaniment to the best of Savile Row. Through the years
Edward Green shoes have been chosen by the Duke of Windsor, Ernest
Hemingway, Cole Porter and Lord Mountbatten. Today Edward Greens are
available in leading boutiques from Tokyo to Honololu, as well as their
own shops in St James and Paris.

[65]
Gaziano and Girling
Gaziano & Girling is a unique shoe company. Founded in 2006 by Tony
Gaziano & Dean Girling, it has become the most innovative and versatile
shoemaker in England, combining handcrafting and manufacturing skills
to put itself at the top of both the bespoke and benchmade industries.
Tony and Dean worked for a variety of bespoke makers, designers and
Northampton manufacturers before coming together to launch Gaziano
& Girling. Their aim was to bring a new look and quality standard to
a sometimes somnolent industry, with fresh designs in bespoke and
unprecedented handwork in their benchmade shoes. The result is
beautifully made footwear that suits men both young and old, conservative
and contemporary. Traditional English models are updated with touches
of continental flair, in the last, a shaped waist and design elements that
together raise a functional shoe into a work of art.
Grenson
Grenson shoes take classic design cues, but are undeniably contemporary
thanks to their streamlined proportions, while the quality and craftsmanship
of each pair is almost legendary. Grenson was founded in 1866 by William
Green, and the firm has operated out of the same premises in Northampton
(long the centre of British shoemaking) since 1895. Many of the current
employees are descendants of the factory’s original workers, while the
production method has changed little since the Victorian era. It takes at
least three weeks, and around 250 separate operations, to manufacture a
pair of Grenson shoes, evidence of the love and attention which goes into
the process.

[66]
Schnieder Boots inc
W & H Gidden
Schnieder Boots produce, and carry in their London shop, a range of over
2000 pairs of different types of boots for all equestrian purposes.
Schneider Boots are worn by members of the English Royal Family and
rulers of many countries and also by many of the top show jumper,
dressage and event riders throughout the world. They are very confident
of executing any type of boots, to personal specification, from a completed
self-measurement form.
In 1999 the Schnieder Boots Company acquired W & H Gidden, who has
been makers of saddles since 1806, when William and Henry Gidden made
their first saddle. W&H Gidden holds the Royal Warrant as saddlers to Her
Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. This tradition of aristocratic patronage dates
from 1815, when the Duke of Wellington rode into battle against Napoleon
on a Gidden saddle.

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[68]
Mills & Merchants
MERINO WOOL – FIBRE, SPINNERS, WEAVERS,
KNITTERS
The traditions in the production of Merino wool knitwear, fabric
and garment manufacture have long-lines of family heritage and
craftsmanship that have been in existence for over 450 years. There
are many kinds of wool produced in many countries, and all of it
is natural, biodegradable and renewable, but most of the soft, fine
Merino wool used in the fashion and fine apparel industry comes from
Australia, whose pristine environments have the precise combination
of sunshine, grass and rain needed to keep Merino sheep
happy and healthy. Many of the Merino farms have been in the same
families for over a century, and their expertise and dedication have
resulted in breeding programs producing ever finer, softer fleeces.
An individual Merino sheep yields 18kg of wool each and every year
of its adult life. Specialists in wool grading and sorting select these
fine fibres, much akin to a Michelin star restaurant, it is this selection
of the ingredient fibre that determines the resulting softness and
fineness and end use of the garment. Innovations in processing
techniques and modern machinery extends these traditional
techniques and procedures to enable finer, lighter and, in some cases,
with additional finishing practices softer, loftier, brushed surface
fabrics or knitwear; or smooth, clean and pristine tailoring fabrics
to be produced. Today the traditional-looking tweeds can be much
softer and lighter to wear, making them more appropriate for today’s
lifestyle and daily environments, and Merino wool can be used in
non-wool traditional fabrics as in the case of Merino wool blend
denim and corduroys where the wool is used for increased comfort,
reduced creasing and fabric performance and recovery. The whole
industry pipeline is committed to innovation and development, each
adding an important ingredient to the mix, bringing their knowledge
and legacy into the craftsmanship and refinement of the bespoke
tailoring.
On the following pages are some of the industry’s leading suppliers of
fine, luxurious Merino wool cloths, knitwear and yarns.

[69]
Abraham Moon & Sons Ltd
Founded by Abraham Moon in 1837, Abraham Moon & Sons Ltd is one
of the few remaining totally vertical wool mills left in the UK. The
entire manufacturing process from the initial design, through dyeing,
spinning, and weaving is carried out at the mill before finally finishing
and despatching. They pride themselves on a balance between modern,
innovative design and traditional craft and are proud to be part of this
exceptional heritage For many years their ranges have continued to offer
the assurance of luxurious quality and a unique understanding of the everchanging
needs in the clothing industry. The traditional fabrics combined
with innovative and modern use of colour and design have helped them to
continue to serve leading fashion labels, designers and retail customers
across the world. Manufacturing Merino Wool, Lambswool, Shetland and
Cashmere blend fabrics in tailoring and outerwear weights, Abraham
Moon design for men and ladies wear with equal emphasis and care.
Please contact marketing.dept@moons.co.uk for further information.
Albini Group
Founded in 1876 in Albino (Bergamo), the Albini Group remains a family
business that today is represented by the fifth generation led by Silvio,
Fabio, Andrea and Stefano Albini. The active presence of the family is
the basis for a broad view of business success. Business continuity ensures
a long-term orientation, a strong attachment to the product, a shared
ethical commitment. Use of the best raw materials, continuous research
as well as attention to every detail constitute the factors which form the
basis of Cotonificio Albini products, a historical brand of the Group which
interprets the Made in Italy value 100%. It is a complete collection that
satisfies the desires of the most demanding clients. For men, ladies and
children, it offers solutions for all occasions, from classic to casual, from
fashionable to a sophisticated sporty look. The most beautiful fabrics in
the world can only come from a process that is completely under control,
starting from the choice of the best raw materials. This is why Albini
Group has pursued a strategy of vertical integration, controlling in their
plants all the stages of the production, from spinning, to weaving and
finishing made in Italy. www.albinigroup.com

[70]
Dormeuil
In 1842, Jules Dormeuil created a family business that would soon become
world leader in supplying luxury fine cloths. For 170 years, The House of
Dormeuil has developed timeless and iconic fabrics that have cemented the
Company’s reputation across all five continents. From Kings to Presidents,
Hollywood to connoisseurs, Dormeuil continues to dress the world’s elite
with timeless British elegance. Today, Dormeuil fits comfortably into the
world of contemporary luxury, pioneering innovative cloths using the
world’s finest and rarest natural fibres. Dormeuil’s collections include the
exquisite Haute Couture range that continues to tempt leading fashion
houses of our time while also offering limited edition cloths for the
extraordinary. These exceptional fabrics are developed by Dormeuil’s
own design team and manufactured in non-other than England, using
traditional methods that are blended with the very best of modern
technology. www.dormeuil.com
Dugdale Bros
The last remaining cloth merchant based in Huddersfield town centre, the
home of finest English cloth, Dugdale Bros & Co Ltd have, quite literally,
been at the centre of cloth making since 1896. The cloth making heritage of
the town has been a constant source of inspiration to Dugdale, employing
highly skilled designers, weavers and finishers has meant their cloths
have always found favour with the finest tailors, couturiers, designers
and garment makers worldwide. Acquiring Fisher & Co, latterly Thomas
Fisher, in 1961 allowed Dugdale to enhance their archive, already preserved
over several generations. This combined with unbroken sales in most
global markets has allowed the company to develop a very wide offering
of cloths from luxurious wools and cashmeres, lightweight mohairs and
cottons, and wool blend corduroys, to their speciality worsted and iconic
White Rose tweeds and Countrywear. Dugdale Brothers purpose will always
remain to define the .Englishness. in their cloths.
Please contact enquiries@dugdalebros.com for more information.

[71]
Escorial from Luxury
Fabrics Ltd
Escorial is the name given to an ancient pure breed of small sheep and
its wool. The Escorial distinction is in the fibre. This resilient naturally
coiled fibre creates unsurpassed luxurious fabrics with a natural crease
resistance. Escorial has partnered with Luxury Fabrics who have developed
a traditional technique to bring out the best in the Escorial fibre to
produce an extraordinary Escorial cloth. Available in over 100 designs in
3 stock supported books, the collection reflects classic British style and
integrity. The Escorial fabrics are naturally finished with ‘The London
Shrunk Finish’ originally developed more than a century ago. This unique
finishing process complements the characteristics of the Escorial fibre
giving the Escorial suit extra comfort for the customer. Please contact
sales@luxuryfabricsltd.co.uk for swatch samples or to enquire into
stocking the Escorial collection.
Fox Brothers
Established in 1772 by Thomas Fox, Fox Brothers is one of only a hand full
of working cloth mills left in the UK. Fox Brothers have produced woollen
and worsted fabric in Wellington, Somerset for nearly two hundred and
fifty years. Officially credited as the original creators of flannel, to
this day they combine traditional manufacturing processes with state
of the art design technology, to create the finest wool and cashmere
cloth available in the world. Fox Brothers have been supplying luxury
woollen cloth to London’s historic Savile Row tailors, the military and
exclusive fashion designers for nearly 250 years. Fox Brothers continue
to produce the world’s finest woollen fabrics at their Wellington site, in
the beautiful rural surroundings of Somerset, in the West of England.
In addition to being the original creators of flannel, Fox Brothers long
and illustrious history includes the development of the serge drape
mixture, now known worldwide as khaki, which was given Royal approval
by the Prince of Wales in 1900 and eventually led to the demise of the
British Army’s traditional ‘Redcoats’. For further information contact
info@foxflannel.com.

[72]
Hainsworth
Hainsworth has been responsible for weaving the look of Iconic England ever
since the company was established in 1783 and can trace their military roots
back to the supply of the Scarlet Uniforms supplied to the troops that fought in
the battle of Waterloo in 1815. Many of the famous images that have been used
across the world to celebrate Great Britain are made unforgettable through the
use of Hainsworth cloth including the Striking Scarlet of the Royal Guards and
the ceremonial uniforms worn by the Royal Family during state occasions. True
craftsmanship starts with the selection of the best possible fibres, a knowledge
and skill passed down through the Hainsworth family over 230 years. Carefully
selecting only the best quality fleeces from Australia, New Zealand and Britain,
matching the fleece and fibre qualities to the end use of the fabric ensuring
a truly beautiful finish. Through the generations Hainsworth have learnt the
best way to craft cloth to make it perfect for its specific end use, be it apparel,
furnishings or wall coverings. They control the weave all the way down to
the placement of individual fibres within the construction to ensure optimized
benefits to the end application including, lustre, handle, durability and drape.
Contact apparel@hainsworth.co.uk for further information.
Hawick Knitwear
For well over a century Hawick has been a mill town with a successful textile
industry, supplying the world with the best knitwear available. Hawick
Knitwear is at the very heart of the industry and can trace its proud history
of manufacturing back to 1874. Since then the Company has been perfecting
the art of designing and producing knitwear to the highest possible quality
standards. All products are wholly made in their own factory, in Hawick, by
skilled craftsmen and craftswomen with decades of experience behind them.
They only work with the finest natural fibres, delicately dyed and painstakingly
spun into yarn before being expertly knitted into fully-fashioned, shaped
panels. These are then skillfully hand-linked together in a traditional way to
make a luxury pullover. All trimmings are finished by hand-sewing before
final examination, again, by highly-skilled, experienced people. Products are
washed and milled in-house using a plentiful supply of soft water which comes
from their very own Artesian Well, giving the products a uniquely soft handle.
Hawick Knitwear pullovers have a world-wide reputation for design, luxury
and longevity. www.hawickknitwear.com.

[73]
Hield Bros
Hield Brothers was established in 1922 during the reign of His Majesty
King George V. The company was founded by entrepreneurs David and
Hugh Hield as a symbol of perpetual British quality, to this day supplying
the finest quality English cloth to some of the fashion world’s most
exclusive labels. Today whilst constantly drawing inspiration from the
past, innovative finishing and dyeing techniques enable Hield Brothers
to give a modern twist keeping the collection both fresh and up-to-date.
Along with seasonal collections of cloth, Hield supports an extensive
classic collection for both suits and jackets in a variety of compositions.
In addition to the manufacturing of cloth Hield Brothers is supported by
furnishings and lifestyle divisions with the former recently supplying
cloth used in Her Majesty the Queen Elizabeth II’s state limousine.
Please contact sales@hieldbros.com for further information.
Holland & Sherry
From its conception, over 170 years ago, Holland & Sherry has continued to
supply prestigious tailors and luxury brands with the finest cloth. In 1836
Stephen George Holland & Frederick Sherry began the business as woollen
merchants at 10 Old Bond Street, London, specialising in both woollen and
silk cloths. 1886 saw Holland & Sherry move premises to Golden Square,
at the time the epicentre of the woollen merchanting trade. By 1900 the
firm was exporting to many countries. By 1982 the business moved to
Savile Row, and remains as our registered head office. In 1968 Holland &
Sherry bought Scottish cloth merchant, Lowe Donald, based at Peebles,
in the Scottish Borders and located their distribution to the purpose built
warehouse there. Of all the cloth merchants of Golden Square which were
established in the late 1800’s, only Holland & Sherry remains. For further
information contact enquiries@hollandandsherry.co.uk.

[74]
Scabal
Scabal is world renowned as the one of the most superior fabric supplier
for men’s clothing. Its production and operation covers 65 countries and
regions worldwide. Ever since its establishment, Scabal has dedicated
itself to offering fine fabric for all the top Bespoke brands globally. It also
has its own brand of ready-to-wear and accessories. In 1939, Scabal was
established in Brussels, mainly engaged in the apparel fabric production,
ready-to-wear design & making, as well as the customized services. The
brand helps its customers express themselves perfectly with well-selected
fabric and exquisite design. All of its apparel fabric is produced either in
Britain or Italy. The binding part of all its product has the logo of Scabal,
which is the symbol of quality and status. For further information visit
www.scabal.com.
Standeven
Standeven has always been a global business, trusted by the finest tailors,
designers and garment manufacturers since 1885. They have been exporting
all over the world for more than 100 years which shows their expertise in fine
worsted fabrics. Of course the Standeven name was also popular at home in the
UK, supplying the finest tailors on Savile Row and throughout the country,
as well as garment manufacturers and the growing group of department
stores. In 1926 HRH the Prince of Wales visited Standeven. The business
had become a fully vertically integrated operation and one of the highest
regarded manufacturers, based in the birthplace of fine worsted textiles, West
Yorkshire. Ranges have been created to provide options for almost every style
and occasion. Mohair, cashmere and silk are brought together by our in-house
design team with a range of fine Merino wools from Super 120s to the finest
Super 200s. Woven and finished in-house, customers can be confident in the
availability and quality of the cloth, that’s why Standeven is known today as
The Tailor’s Mill. www.standevenfabrics.co.uk.

[75]
Taylor & Lodge
Since 1883, Taylor and Lodge have been weaving fine worsteds in
Huddersfield, England. Its reputation for quality fabric comes from over
a century of experience. In 2004 Taylor and Lodge became part of the
Bulmer and Lumb Group which was looking to expand the group’s potential
into luxury products. The production consists of two comprehensive
collections annually aimed at our most important markets, which are: the
Far East, Europe and the Middle East. These seasonal collections consist of
superfine worsted suiting, jacketing, overcoating and dishdasha fabrics
with weights ranging from 165gms to 700gms/mtr. The prestigious
collection of Taylor and Lodge offers a range of fabrics which focuses on
the yarns produced by the group. It is a specialist fabric company that uses
the finest wool, mohair, silk and linen available to create a range of fabrics
with differing weights and designs for both suiting and jacketing. The
design team create contemporary fabrics, manufactured using traditional
production methods. Please contact headoffice@taylorandlodge.com for
more information.
J & S Taylor
J & S Taylor Ltd was started in 1861 as a partnership between two brothers
Joseph & Samuel Taylor based at Bower’s Mill, Barkisland, their friend
Abraham Whitworth Snr joined them. In 1882 the brothers turned the business
into a private limited company. Over the years the company expanded, putting
up more buildings. All the processes required to produce cloth were carried
out at the mill, blending, spinning, weaving, scouring, dyeing and finishing.
They have always produced woollen fabrics from Kerseys, Serge, Melton and
Velours, changing over the years to meet the demand. The company managed
to ride both the ups and downs of the woollen trade, however in the late 1980s
there was a steep decline in trade and in 1991 the decision was taken to cease
production at Bower’s Mill, Barkisland. The company then moved to the present
location of Corporation Mill, Sowerby Bridge. Over the years the company has
been run by the same family, which is now in its fifth generation, and continue
to make woollen fabric but are now classed as manufacturers without looms,
where the production is carried out on a commission basis using their own yarn
which is all spun, woven, dyed and finished in the UK. www.taylorsdirect.co.uk.

[76]
Very English Weaving Co
Very English Weavers is a much loved Jewel within the Huddersfield textile elite,
based in the pleasant Huddersfield village of Slaithwaite, the mill specialises
in manufacturing fabulous woollen spun cloth of pure wool, lamb’s wool and
luxurious cashmere. Very English pride themselves in weaving cloth with an
exquisite drape and handle, much appreciated by high class tailors worldwide.
They achieve this by great design and working closely with other Huddersfield
manufactures, who themselves are regarded as being at the top of their game,
spinners such as Z Hinchliffe and finishers W T Johnsons. Huddersfield is
home to some of the finest worsted manufacturers in the world, and their
woollen spun qualities live up to the same very high standards. The mill in
Slaithwaite has been producing iconic woollen jacket, suit and coating cloths
under such brands as Marling & Evans, Zaccheus and Very English for over
30 years. Prior to that M&E was based in the Cotswolds, before moving North
to take advantage of the fantastic local textile infrastructure in Huddersfield,
M&E itself can be traced back to 1782. No gentleman should be without a Very
English jacket, coat or suit made from such distinctive, quintessentially
British cloth, there is simply no substitute. www.englishweavers.co.uk.
Z. Hinchliffe & Sons Ltd
Z. Hinchliffe & Sons Ltd are a family owned and operated business based in
Yorkshire and Scotland. Spinning was first recorded in 1766 and successive
generations have mastered and improved this trade whilst embracing the
latest innovative production methods and controls. Over 200 years of
experience allow Z. Hinchliffe & Sons Ltd to provide the softest and most
luxurious yarns on the market today to satisfy their discerning customers
who value quality. On receipt of scoured Merino lambswool ‘state of the
art’ technology allows Z. Hinchliffe and Sons to process in-house; from
dyeing to spinning. Products are 100% UK produced yarns, using 100%
electronically controlled mule spinning, setting the world’s benchmark
standard. With dyeing and colour matching as a forte, the care taken in
processing is essential to retaining the soft handle of premier natural fibres
to maintain the luxury product. World renowned as setting the benchmark
for the best Merino lambswool yarns, they pride themselves as being an
important supplier to international brands both in the UK and worldwide.
For further information contact office@zhinchliffe.co.uk.

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With thanks and recognition
for their valuable help
Caroline and Peregrine Armstrong-Jones
Lieutenant Colonel Paul Bedford
Colonel Hugh Bodington
Charlie Bowmont
Rosie Brown
Colonel Toby Browne
Captain Paul Chishick
Sergeant-Major George Dent
Adrian Gill
Field Marshal The Lord Guthrie of Craigiebank
Captain James Harbord
Peter Haslam
Philippa Hart
Tony Johnstone-Burt
Pierre Lagrange
Rebecca Metcalfe
Justin Mundy
Josie Rowland
Lottie Smith-Bingham
Gary O’Donnell

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[1]