Tiffany Gemstones: A Heritage of Brilliant Color - Tiffany & Co. For ...
Tiffany Gemstones: A Heritage of Brilliant Color - Tiffany & Co. For ...
Tiffany Gemstones: A Heritage of Brilliant Color - Tiffany & Co. For ...
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<strong>Tiffany</strong> <strong>Gemstones</strong>: A <strong>Heritage</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Brilliant</strong> <strong><strong>Co</strong>lor</strong><br />
Whether color is out in force or merely whispers, it is the key indicator <strong>of</strong> fashion’s mood. The source <strong>of</strong><br />
its power lies in nature, from whose mysterious depths color comes forth in dramatic ways. One <strong>of</strong> the<br />
most spectacular is fiery, translucent gemstones. These radiant riches are a measure <strong>of</strong> nature’s magic.<br />
Sparkling in exquisite <strong>Tiffany</strong> jewels, they are an ultimate gauge <strong>of</strong> glamour and style.<br />
<strong><strong>Co</strong>lor</strong>ed gemstones, a centerpiece <strong>of</strong> <strong>Tiffany</strong>’s jewelry collections, played a major part in establishing<br />
<strong>Tiffany</strong> as a world-renowned jeweler. Prior to the middle <strong>of</strong> the 19th century, colored gemstones were<br />
rarely used in American jewelry. All that changed in 1876, when preeminent gemologist Dr. George<br />
Frederick Kunz (1856–1932) sold an exceptional tourmaline to <strong>Tiffany</strong> founder Charles Lewis <strong>Tiffany</strong><br />
(1812–1902). Soon after, Dr. Kunz joined the company and embarked on a lifelong quest for the most<br />
extraordinary gems for <strong>Tiffany</strong>’s clientele.<br />
The treasures unearthed by this intrepid globetrotter formed the world’s greatest collection <strong>of</strong><br />
gemstones. Kunz was as passionate about American gemstones—Montana sapphires, Maine<br />
tourmalines, garnets and topazes from Utah—as he was about exotic yellow beryl from Ceylon,<br />
demantoid (green) garnets from Russia’s Ural Mountains, aquamarines from Brazil, and from<br />
Madagascar, a violet pink beryl that was eventually named morganite for financier J.P. Morgan.<br />
With these and other brilliant gems <strong>Tiffany</strong> created color-saturated jewels as lavish and sought-after as<br />
the <strong>Tiffany</strong> diamonds the fashionably rich wore day and night. G. Paulding Farnham (1859–1927), chief<br />
jewelry designer from 1891 to 1908, designed many <strong>of</strong> these jewels. Farnham was a consummate<br />
colorist with a vast range <strong>of</strong> influences. His floral jewels, among them a nine-inch iris brooch set with<br />
Montana sapphires, green garnets and diamonds, have no equal.<br />
Louis <strong>Co</strong>mfort <strong>Tiffany</strong> (1848–1933), son <strong>of</strong> Charles <strong>Tiffany</strong> and a leader <strong>of</strong> the Art Nouveau<br />
movement, captured the key themes <strong>of</strong> his famous stained glass—vividly colored fruits, wildflowers,<br />
birds, insects—in jewels with Mexican fire opals, green and red garnets and amethysts. His love <strong>of</strong><br />
nature is beautifully reflected in a ring featuring a spectacular cabochon Maine tourmaline in a gold<br />
grapevine setting.<br />
The creations <strong>of</strong> these gifted designers were featured in <strong>Tiffany</strong>’s grand prize-winning exhibitions at the<br />
great world’s fairs in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. With motifs from antiquity to Orientalist,<br />
Native American and later, the exuberant 1930’s cocktail style, <strong>Tiffany</strong> & <strong>Co</strong>. received unprecedented<br />
recognition as the undisputed leader in the world <strong>of</strong> jewels.<br />
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<strong>Tiffany</strong> introduced new gemstones well into the twentieth century. In 1969 the company introduced<br />
tanzanite, a dazzling blue zoisite named for Tanzania, its country <strong>of</strong> origin. In 1974 <strong>Tiffany</strong> introduced<br />
tsavorite, a form <strong>of</strong> green garnet intensely rich in color, named for Tanzania’s Tsavo National Park.<br />
The jeweler’s gemstone heritage remains vibrantly alive with many <strong>of</strong> the original stones acquired<br />
during the decades <strong>of</strong> discovery. With the addition <strong>of</strong> other luminous gems such as exotic Paraiba<br />
tourmalines and Mandarin garnets, as well as exquisite emeralds from <strong>Co</strong>lombia and sapphires from<br />
Kashmir, <strong>Tiffany</strong> designers continue to make major fashion statements. Among them are gem-encrusted<br />
necklaces and pendants, long drop earrings and lavish cocktail rings, and jewels inspired by designs in<br />
the <strong>Tiffany</strong> & <strong>Co</strong>. Archives.<br />
Jean Schlumberger, one <strong>of</strong> the 20th century’s most illustrious designers, utilizes a dynamic color mix<br />
to create ravishing flowers, birds and mythical creatures. His unexpected combinations—emeralds,<br />
amethysts, yellow and blue sapphires in the magnificent Phoenix clip, for example—along with a<br />
strong sculptural quality spark a new experience <strong>of</strong> nature’s fantastic color scheme.<br />
Paloma Picasso, one <strong>of</strong> the world’s premier designers, is celebrated for jewelry <strong>of</strong> impressive magnitude<br />
and sophistication. Favored by fashion-conscious women everywhere, the designer highlights looks in<br />
all seasons with generously scaled gemstones. Her bold ring designs underscore the unique identity <strong>of</strong><br />
bright pink and chrome-green tourmalines, lustrous tanzanites and sky-blue aquamarines.<br />
<strong>Tiffany</strong>’s reputation for superlative gemstones shines on in the jeweler’s showcases around the world.<br />
Each color is a classic expression <strong>of</strong> fashion, presented with the utmost quality and craftsmanship that<br />
have distinguished <strong>Tiffany</strong> & <strong>Co</strong>. for over eight generations.<br />
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TIFFANY & CO. and TIFFANY are trademarks <strong>of</strong> <strong>Tiffany</strong> and <strong>Co</strong>mpany.
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DIAMOND DROP EARRINGS WITH (FROM LEFT)<br />
MARQUISE GREEN TOURMALINE, OVAL KUNZITE, BAGUETTE GREEN TOURMALINE.<br />
PHOTO CREDIT: CARLTON DAVIS