April 2012 - Crittenden Fine Gentlemen's Clothing

Photos by Wales hunter
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Paying attention to
detail is important
to the customer,
and that is why
my clothes feel like
such a good value.

Sharp Dressed
Man
by Dana sizemore
Mark Twain once argued, “The clothes make the man.” Crittenden
Rawlings is the man who makes the clothes. His “Crittenden”
namesake line of top-quality menswear—available at his Crittenden
Fine Gentlemen’s Clothing store in Midway, Lexington’s Crittenden Upstairs
and more than 150 high-end men’s clothing stores across the country—is as
unique and stylish as the designer himself. Rawlings enjoys the way good
clothes make him feel and revels in the opportunity to create clothing that will
make other men feel the same way.
Rawlings’ passion for fine clothes started at a very early age. He credits his
father, a sharp dresser, with sparking his own interest in clothing, and growing
up on a farm near Lebanon with teaching him how to work. “Getting up
early to feed and work the farm—now that is real work,” he said. It was from
this farm that the young Rawlings would hitchhike to Lexington and Louisville
to stroll through the men’s stores and dream about someday being able to
afford a purchase. Rawlings said his success can be largely attributed to a
“great Kentucky work ethic, passion and a whole lot of luck.”
During high school, Rawlings held his first job in men’s fashion, working at
George’s department store in his Lebanon hometown. He liked the clothing
industry so much, he later turned down a Campbellsville University basketball
scholarship to work for a traveling salesman from a Cincinnati clothing company.
His mother was not happy about the decision but eventually conceded.
After nine years, he moved on to work with the esteemed New Jersey-based
clothier Norman Hilton. Rawlings calls Hilton, the King of the Ivy League Era
in American clothing, “a master of style.”
While working with Hilton, Rawlings jumped at the chance to learn about
merchandising. As Rawlings describes it, merchandising is “literally going to
the fabric mills and picking out the fabrics that a collection would be built
from.” This gave him the opportunity to travel the world studying the most
luxurious fabrics available. He credits this extensive knowledge of fabrics with
propelling his career.
While working for Hilton, Rawlings assisted with the development of the
first line of men’s suits for a then-young designer named Ralph Lauren.
Rawlings later worked with Lauren for 10 years. He finished up his career as
CEO for the Chicago-based Oxxford Clothes, known for its custom-made,
high-quality men’s suits. During his time at Oxxford, Rawlings had the privilege
of outfitting President George W. Bush.
A prominent fixture in the men’s fashion industry for more than 50 years,
Rawlings had an exciting career that took him all over the world, but he says
he always knew he and his wife, Judy, would someday return to Kentucky. He
came full circle, retiring to a Mercer County farm, but could not stay idle for
long.
Just after his departure from the fashion business, Rawlings noticed a
tremendous increase in the price of men’s suits he felt was “ridiculous.”
Inspired by “Kentucky gentlemen and their interests in clothing,” and fueled
by his intolerance for the price hikes, Rawlings said he set out to create his
own line. His goal was to fashion a garment of high quality at a reasonable
price point, but suited for today’s more “relaxed way of dressing.”
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In 2003, the first Crittenden collection was
released. True to his aim to create easy-to-wear,
high-quality, reasonably priced clothing,
Rawlings launched his line with an unstructured
sport coat, which lacks heavy padding
and lining. Using a technique known as French
facing, his coats are reinforced without adding
bulk or stiffness. Not only are his clothes functional,
they are beautifully made. He draws
inspiration from classic clothing styles of the
past and an amassed portfolio of fabrics he calls
his “fabric library.”
“Paying attention to detail is important to
the customer, and that is why my clothes feel
like such a good value,” Rawlings said. From
the design to the fabrics to the tiniest details, a
Crittenden piece is unique.
Rawlings’ customers agree. “I got no less
than four compliments on [his Crittenden sport
coat] when I wore it to Fresh Market,” said
Jerry Grasso, vice president of corporate communications
at Lexmark. “Critt’s clothes strike
the balance. They fit nicely and contour to the
wearer’s physical attributes. His palette is interesting
and a touch outrageous without crossing
the line … Critt’s unlocked the secret of ‘less is
more’ in his design. And his clothes are really
comfortable. It’s a jacket you can wear all day.”
Rawlings’ latest endeavor is The Bluegrass
Collection by Crittenden. This line, inspired by
the colors and lifestyle of the Bluegrass, consists
of locally crafted belts, over shirts, casual jackets,
and duffle and computer bags.
Every thread of Crittenden Fine Gentlemen’s
Clothing is bound by Rawlings’ passion, knowledge
and years of experience. The final product
is something really special, as is the man who
makes the clothes.
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Debonair Derby Attire
The design for the Crittenden sport coats worn by
our three gentlemen is based on a coat owned by
the late Duke of Windsor (the former King Edward
VIII). They feature high-quality details typically found
on much higher-priced clothing, including 100
percent silk butterfly yokes and piped seams,
hand-finished armholes, and hiked, hand-wrapped
buttons.

aDrian mansergh-
Wallace
A native of County
Tipperary, Ireland, Adrian
has worked for a decade at
Ashford Stud, the American
division of Irish racing and
breeding operation
Coolmore Stud. The 2,500acre
farm in Versailles is
home to 13 Thoroughbred
stallions, including
Kentucky Derby winners
Fusaichi Pegasus (2000)
and Thunder Gulch (1995).
Adrian is responsible for
selling rights (also known
as nominations) to breed
mares with the stallions,
whose stud fees range from
$10,000 to $85,000.
Adrian’s look
Patterns are minimal for
Adrian’s Derby attire
because, as Critt notes,
“The sport coat says
enough.” The silk, cotton
and wool jacket features
a one-color Tattersall
check pattern. Adrian’s
silk and linen pants hug
the hip, providing a trim,
clean and flattering
silhouette. The necktie
is decorated with
Crittenden’s fox head
logo. Adrian adds a
personal touch to his
look with cuff links
displaying his family’s
coat of arms.
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mayor tom bozarth
Tom has been Midway’s mayor since 2006 and owner of Arch Bloodstock
since 1999. His family has a nearly 150-year history in the area (his mother’s
relations own and operate Weisenberger Mill), and Tom’s fondness for the
quaint railroad town he’s called home since the age of 13 is unmistakable.
On the National Register of Historic Places, Midway boasts numerous
horse farms, gift and antiques shops, and several remarkable restaurants.
Tom’s look
Worn under a wool and silk coat in a houndstooth check and
salmon windowpane pattern, Tom’s silk and linen vest adds a retromodern
touch to his ensemble. “Vests are very popular for the first
time in 20 years,” Critt says. The silk pocket square complements
an Atkinson tie from Ireland and provides the perfect finishing
touch on a polished, yet comfortable, look for a day at the races.
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Critt’s look
Crittenden Rawlings encourages men to mix patterns because
“it makes clothing interesting.” The bold regatta stripe of his
sport coat contrasts with a paisley-patterned tie, striped
shirt and houndstooth silk pocket square. Critt’s tip for
sporting the multipattern look: keep the patterns subtle and
in the same color palette. His silk, wool and bamboo-blend
coat is not only dashing, but it’s also practical. It stays
nearly wrinkle-free. Seams piped with 100 percent silk and
“surgeon’s cuffs” with opulent, mother-of-pearl buttons are
features found on all of Crittenden’s spring sport coats.
Special thanks to Crittenden Rawlings; Dermot Ryan, Adrian Mansergh-Wallace
and Ashford Stud; and Mayor Tom Bozarth and the City of Midway.
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the magazine, including additional photos and
information about this feature story.
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