Lao Pun Tao Kong Shrine

Lao Pun Tao Kong
The outer walls of this
temple in Bangkok’s
Chinatown are elaborately
decorated with flora,
fauna and mythological
figures important
to Taoists. Banners
requesting donations are
hung temporarily.
Below and opposite: The
entrance to the shrine is guarded
by a pair of gold-colored Fu dogs,
the female on the left (below) and
the male statue on the right.
Nestled among old warehouses and
fragrant spice shops in Bangkok’s
Chinatown is one of my favorite
Chinese temples, Lao Pun Tao Kong
Shrine. Located at 833 Songwat Road,
this Taoist shrine is dedicated to its
namesake, the local god Pun Tao
Kong, who is well loved for providing
good health, blessings, and success
in business and trade.
The shrine is situated at one end
of the Chinatown Walking Street
and a block or two from bustling
Sampeng Lane, which is not surprising
since Pun Tao Kong is the
city god of Sampeng. Accessible
by riverboat taxi, this Taoist place
of worship is an easy walk from
Ratchawongse Pier (N5). As you
approach, the sounds of students at
the adjacent Peiing Public Primary
School and the pungent smells of
cinnamon and anise are further
indicators that you are only a few
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38 awadd i—2nd Quarter 2011

Shrine
A Wealth
of
Decor
&
Deities
Text by Carol Foutz Stephens
Photographs by Carol Foutz Stephens and
Thomas M. Stephens
steps away from your destination.
The original shrine was built by
overseas Chinese in the time of King
Rama III (r. 1824–1851). A construction
project was conducted in
the 1940s to renovate the property.
This was followed by a more recent
restoration in 2007 to mark
the celebration of His Majesty King
Bhumibol Adulyadej’s 80th birthday.
Members of the 34th Generation
of the Taechew Association greatly
supported and masterminded these
changes, and this association maintains
the shrine today. The present
building is 66 years old.
The ornately decorated red Chinese
arch, or gateway, in front of the
shrine is topped by two green dragons
chasing a flaming pearl, a wellknown
Chinese motif. Meeting in the
middle in a friendly face-off, unlike
the more fearsome dragons of medieval
times, these Chinese dragons
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39

Colorful ceramic warriors stand ready
to defend against evil.
Tua Laoia Kong takes center stage in
the back of the shrine.
Dragons chasing a flaming pearl atop the gateway entrance are motifs
commonly seen at Chinese shrines.
pictures of an elephant and a lion
denote strength. If you look upward
at the tiled area under the roof, you
will see a favorite creature—the qilin
(unicorn)—who is known for kindness
and benevolence. Legend claims
that if you see one, it is an omen
of wonderful things ahead. It also
signifies longevity as well as wise
administration and felicity. Another
tile depicts several ducks which,
especially when in pairs, symbolize
conjugal fidelity.
The frames surrounding pictures
are also symbolic. Butterflies, which
are associated with joy, appear in the
corners of some of the smaller illusare
positive figures representing life,
change and protection.
The outside of the shrine is a veritable
feast of Chinese symbols and
art. On its roof are more dragons,
their serpentine tails waving in the
wind as they sail across the horizon.
Chinese warriors placed strategically
along cascading beams also
stand guard, prepared to fight off
any intruders.
On the outer shrine walls the God
of Longevity holds his characteristic
staff. White cranes standing
under pine trees along with a painting
of bamboo—all symbols of long
life—are featured as well. Separate
trations. Lotus flowers are employed
to enhance meaning. Outlining some
of the larger representations is the
Greek key design, or meander, a
common ornamentation used to fill
in empty space and create positive
energy.
The entrance to the shrine is
graced by a pair of gold-colored Fu
dogs, also known as temple dogs or
lions. The male statue, sometimes
just a bit larger than the female, is
placed on the right of the entrance
and has one paw resting on top of a
ball, which represents the world. The
female statue is placed on the left, in
accordance with tradition, and her
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The elusive qilin (Chinese unicorn) has the body of
a horse covered with fish scales and two horns bent
backward.
The white tiger, guardian of the west, is the king of
wild beasts and exemplifies courage.
A popular local god, Lao Pun Tao Kong is honored daily by
a stream of visitors who light candles and incense sticks at
this shrine.
paw rests on a baby Fu dog, which
represents the family. In addition,
the male statue protects the outer
premises while the female guards
the inside of the buildings.
Inside the shrine and immediately
to the left, you will see an alcove honoring
Pun Tao Kong. The altar table
before him displays several temple
dogs and some blue-and-white vases
depicting the Eight Immortals, a very
important group of legendary figures
in Taoist mythology.
Further inside, you come to two
small ponds. On the left is the White
Tiger Pond. A mosaic of a white tiger,
who is the guardian of the west, is
displayed on the wall to symbolize
courage and the summer season. On
the opposite wall is the Green Dragon
Pond with a mosaic of an imposing
green dragon swirling above it.
Known for possessing spiritual powers,
this dragon who is the guardian
of the east represents fertility and the
spring season. Both these chimerical
creatures stand ready to fend off any
would-be attackers.
Next you pass a central offering
table and two bells. The bell on the
left is antique while the one on the
right is more recently made. The
bells are rung whenever someone
makes a donation to the shrine.
Moving to the back of the building,
you see three altars, or minishrines.
The middle altar pays
homage to the god Tua Laoia Kong.
He sits holding a sword, and his feet
rest upon a turtle. He is flanked on
the right by a shrine to Tua Pun Tao
Kong and on his left, a shrine to Jui
Hoksing.
Since predicting the future is an
important Taoist concept, you may
want to throw some divination sticks
before you leave. These sticks can
be found bunched in a container on
one of the altar tables. Make your
donation and then simply shake the
container until a numbered stick
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The large bell on
the left represents
peace and good luck.
Paper offerings are
burned in the colorful
incinerator beside the
bell.
Muengsing, the door god, is an imposing figure located
on both the left and right entrance doors of the temple to
ensure people can come and go safely.
Divination sticks (above right) are used by
Taoists to learn the future (below).
falls out. Then proceed to the red
boxes by the door where you will receive
a poem from the appropriately
numbered slot. Since this advice
will be in Thai, you may want to
have it translated by one of the staff
specialists. Other ways to increase
your good fortune are to make an
offering by burning joss sticks, by
lighting a candle or, of course, by
making a donation.
On the way out, do not miss
the paintings of the door god,
Muengsing, who has been guarding
you during your visit, ensuring
that no ghosts, spirits or demons of
any kind threaten you or the shrine.
A fearsome figure, his picture is on
both inside doors.
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Lao Pun Tao Kong Shrine is a
wonderful contrast to the rest of
Chinatown with its hustle and bustle,
crowded streets and cacophony
of everyday sounds. I love entering
this quiet world of color, characters
and creativity. And thanks to the
presence of the Taoist deities and
the plethora of good luck symbols,
I always leave feeling more
peaceful and protected than when
I arrived. ❖
Carol Stephens wrote her first article for
Saw a d d i Magazine in 1995. She and
her husband, Tom Stephens, are living
in Bangkok for a second time. Traveling
and experiencing Asian cultures are
among their many interests.
Author’s Note: Because
of the popularity of this
local god, there is another
Lao Pun Tao Kong Shrine
in Chinatown only a few
blocks away, which is not
the subject of this article.
This older sanctuary is on
a lane called Trok San Chao
Mai and can be reached
by climbing up a number
of stairs.