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Grenadine Air Alliance Magazine

The Caribbean Islands of Mustique, St. Vincent, Bequia, Canouan, Grenada and the like in the Eastern Caribbean are artfully illustrated in the inflight magazine of the Grenadine Air Alliance.

The Caribbean Islands of Mustique, St. Vincent, Bequia, Canouan, Grenada and the like in the Eastern Caribbean are artfully illustrated in the inflight magazine of the Grenadine Air Alliance.

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Inquire about our flight services in St. Vincent & the <strong>Grenadine</strong>s<br />

call or email (784) 458 4380, info@mustique.com | (784) 457 5124, info@svgair.com<br />

in Barbados call or email: (246) 418 1654, info@tia2000.com<br />

1


All rights reserved © 2014. Reproduction in whole or<br />

part of this publication without written permission<br />

is strictly prohibited. Whilst every effort has been<br />

made to ensure correct information, the publishers<br />

cannot be held responsible for any errors, omissions<br />

or changes. The advertising content is the sole<br />

responsibility of the advertiser and the publishers<br />

accept no responsibility for any statements or claims<br />

made therein.<br />

The <strong>Grenadine</strong> <strong>Air</strong> <strong>Alliance</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> 2014/15 is<br />

published on behalf of Trans Island <strong>Air</strong>, SVG <strong>Air</strong> and<br />

Mustique <strong>Air</strong>ways by:<br />

West Indies Publishing Ltd.<br />

P.O. Box W883, St. John’s, Antigua<br />

Tel: (268) 461 0565<br />

Email: wip@candw.ag<br />

Flight Schedule ................................ 4<br />

St. Vincent ...................................... 9<br />

Norren Phllips -<br />

A Gem of the Antilles .................... 11<br />

Hadley Blooms:<br />

A Complex Arrangement .............. 15<br />

Bequia Easter Regatta ...................18<br />

Bequia ............................................. 20<br />

Mustique ....................................... 21<br />

Mustique Blues .............................. 26<br />

The Southern <strong>Grenadine</strong>s .............28<br />

Union Island ...................................29<br />

Kiteboarding in the <strong>Grenadine</strong>s ...31<br />

Mayreau ..........................................34<br />

Canouan ..........................................35<br />

Palm Island ....................................36<br />

Petit St. Vincent .............................37<br />

Barbados and its Heritage .............38<br />

Montserrat - The Emerald Isle .......40<br />

Cover Photo of<br />

Bequia Beach Hotel<br />

by Wilfred Dederer<br />

3


SHARED CHARTER DEPARTURES BETWEEN ST. VINCENT & THE GRENADINES<br />

& BARBADOS EFFECTIVE NOVEMBER 2ND, 2014 TO MARCH 8TH, 2015<br />

FROM: ST. VINCENT TO BARBADOS<br />

Daily Flt. #603 at 10:15<br />

Daily Flt. #605 at 10:00<br />

FROM: BARBADOS TO ST. VINCENT<br />

Daily Flt. #614 at 16:30<br />

Daily Flt. #616 at 16:30<br />

FROM: BEQUIA TO BARBADOS<br />

Daily Flt. #603 at 10:30<br />

Daily Flt. #607 at 14:00<br />

FROM: CANOUAN TO BARBADOS<br />

Daily Flt. #605 at 10:35<br />

Daily Flt. #609 at 14:00<br />

FROM : UNION ISLAND TO BARBADOS<br />

Daily Flt. #605 at 10:45<br />

Daily Flt. #609 at 14:15<br />

FROM: BARBADOS TO BEQUIA<br />

Daily Flt. #606 at 13:00<br />

Daily Flt. #614 at 16:30<br />

FROM BARBADOS TO CANOUAN<br />

Daily Flt. #608 at 13:00<br />

Daily Flt. #614 at 16:30<br />

FROM: BARBADOS TO UNION ISLAND<br />

Daily Flt. #608 at 13:00<br />

Daily Flt. #616 at 16:30<br />

SHARED CHARTER DEPARTURES BETWEEN ST. VINCENT & THE GRENADINES<br />

& BARBADOS EEFFECTIVE MARCH 9TH 2015 TO NOVEMBER 1ST 2015<br />

FROM: ST. VINCENT TO BARBADOS<br />

Daily Flt. #603 at 10:00*<br />

Daily Flt. #605 at 10:00<br />

FROM: BARBADOS TO ST. VINCENT<br />

Daily Flt. #614 at 16:00<br />

Daily Flt. #616 at 16:00<br />

FROM: BEQUIA TO BARBADOS<br />

Daily Flt. #603 at 10:15*<br />

Daily Flt. #607 at 13:35<br />

FROM: CANOUAN TO BARBADOS<br />

Daily Flt. #605 at 10:30<br />

Daily Flt. #609 at 13:35<br />

FROM: UNION ISLAND TO BARBADOS<br />

Daily Flt. #605 at 10:45*<br />

Daily Flt. #609 at 13:45<br />

FROM: BARBADOS TO BEQUIA<br />

Daily Flt. #606 at 12:30*<br />

Daily Flt. #614 at 16:00<br />

FROM: BARBADOS TO CANOUAN<br />

Daily Flt. #608 at 12:30*<br />

Daily Flt. #614 at 16:00<br />

FROM: BARBADOS TO UNION ISLAND<br />

Daily Flt. #608 at 12:30*<br />

Daily Flt. #616 at 16:00<br />

4<br />

* Please note: These flights will not operate from September 1st, 2015 to November 1st, 2015


SHARED CHARTER FLIGHTS BETWEEN MUSTIQUE AND BARBADOS<br />

EFFECTIVE NOVEMBER 2ND, 2014 TO APRIL 30TH, 2015<br />

FROM: MUSTIQUE TO BARBADOS<br />

Daily Flt. #803 at 11:00<br />

Daily Flt. #807 at 14:00<br />

FROM: BARBADOS TO MUSTIQUE<br />

Daily Flt. #806 at 13:00<br />

Daily Flt. #814 at 16:30<br />

FLIGHTS BETWEEN MUSTIQUE AND BARBADOS EFFECTIVE FROM MAY 1ST, 2015<br />

FROM: MUSTIQUE TO BARBADOS<br />

Fri., Sat. & Sun. Flt. #803 at 11:00<br />

Fri., Sat. & Sun. Flt. #.807 at 14:00<br />

FROM: BARBADOS TO MUSTIQUE<br />

Fri., Sat. & Sun. Flt. #806 at 13:00<br />

Fri., Sat. & Sun. Flt. #814 at 16:30<br />

SHARED CHARTER DEPARTURES BETWEEN MUSTIQUE AND<br />

HEWANORRA, ST. LUCIA EFFECTIVE NOVEMBER 2nd , 2014 TO APRIL 30TH, 2015<br />

MUSTIQUE TO HEWANORRA, ST.LUCIA<br />

Fri., Sat. & Sun. Flt. #905 at 12:30<br />

Fri., Sat. & Sun. Flt. #907 at 17:00<br />

HEWANORRA, ST.LUCIA TO MUSTIQUE<br />

Fri., Sat. & Sun. Flt. #906 at 16:00<br />

Please note: During November and December 2014, Flt. #905, Flt. #906 and Flt.#907 will also<br />

operate on Wednesdays. FROM MAY 1ST, 2015 Flt. #905, Flt. #906 and Flt. #907 will operate daily.<br />

DEPARTURES BETWEEN ST. VINCENT AND THE GRENADINE ISLANDS 2014-2015<br />

FROM: ST. VINCENT TO BEQUIA<br />

Daily Flt. #603 at 10:15 ***<br />

FROM: ST. VINCENT TO MUSTIQUE<br />

Mon–Sat (except Public Holidays)<br />

Flt. #131 at 07:30<br />

Flt. #135 at 16:50<br />

FROM: ST. VINCENT TO CANOUAN<br />

Mon.–Fri. Flt. #141 at 08:15<br />

Daily Flt. #605 at 10:15***<br />

FROM: ST. VINCENT TO UNION ISLAND<br />

Mon.–Fri. Flt. #151 at 08:15<br />

Daily Flt. #605 at 10:15***<br />

FROM : BEQUIA TO ST. VINCENT<br />

Daily Flt. #614 at 17:30****<br />

FROM: MUSTIQUE TO ST. VINCENT<br />

Mon–Sat (except public holidays)<br />

Flt. #311 Depart Mustique at 07:50<br />

Flt #315 Depart Mustique at 16:30<br />

FROM: CANOUAN TO ST. VINCENT<br />

Mon.–Fri. Flt. #411 at 09:00<br />

Daily Flt. #419 at 17:30**<br />

Daily Flt. #616 at 17:30****<br />

FROM: UNION ISLAND TO ST. VINCENT<br />

Mon.–Fri. Flt. #511 at 08:45<br />

Daily Flt. #519 at 17:30**<br />

Daily Flt. #616 at 17:30****<br />

*** Please note these flights depart 15 minutes earlier effective March 8th 2015 to<br />

November 1st 2015. Therefore the departure time will be 10:00.<br />

*** Please note these flights depart 30 minutes earlier effective March 8th 2015 to<br />

November 1st 2015. Therefore the departure time will be 17:00.<br />

5


Sunnybrook’s life-saving breast cancer research<br />

Sunnybrook Health Sciences Centre in Toronto is home to some of Canada’s most<br />

innovative breast cancer researchers. Working out of Sunnybrook’s Louise Temerty Breast<br />

Cancer Centre – the largest facility of its kind in the country – these researchers are inventing<br />

the future of breast cancer care.<br />

“Our experts are connected to breakthroughs that have made treatment more effective<br />

and with fewer side-effects for women,” says Dr. Eileen Rakovitch, the Temerty Centre’s<br />

medical director. “In all of the work we do, the goal of extending and saving lives, as well as<br />

improving quality of life, is front and centre.”<br />

Wave of the future<br />

Undergoing chemotherapy is never easy. In addition to side-effects that affect daily<br />

living, patients can wait months to learn whether the drugs are doing their job.<br />

“The 1.5 million women worldwide who will be diagnosed with breast cancer this year<br />

need to know early on whether their chemotherapy is working,” says Dr. Greg Czarnota,<br />

head of Sunnybrook’s Odette Cancer Research Program.<br />

A high-tech monitoring technique co-invented by Dr. Czarnota addresses this need.<br />

Known as WaveCheck, the technology combines traditional ultrasound imaging with new<br />

software to detect responses to chemotherapy in breast tumours, making it possible for a<br />

woman to know what’s happening inside her body just weeks – not months – into chemotherapy.<br />

This allows doctors to know quickly whether a change of course is necessary.<br />

WaveCheck has been used successfully in clinical studies at Sunnybrook with more than<br />

100 breast cancer patients. The research continues and has been expanded to include<br />

women at other cancer centres in Canada and the United States.<br />

6


Research to aid younger patients<br />

Young women with breast cancer have different needs than the broader patient population.<br />

Research shows they’re more likely to be diagnosed with aggressive forms of the<br />

disease, they face unique complications of their treatment such as infertility and premature<br />

menopause, and are at greatest risk of psychological and social distress. These women<br />

often face the diagnosis while they’re building their careers, considering starting families of<br />

their own or already parenting young children.<br />

Sunnybrook medical oncologist Dr. Ellen Warner was instrumental in creating a program,<br />

called PYNK, that provides these patients with the support system they need to get through<br />

treatment and recovery. PYNK also conducts studies that improve treatment for young<br />

women.<br />

Dr. Warner, along with other breast cancer experts across Canada, is leading the establishment<br />

of a national biobank with patient, tumour, treatment and recurrence data and<br />

biological specimens – for example, tumour and blood samples – from breast cancer<br />

patients aged 40 and younger. Biobanks are indispensible to cancer research, as they play a<br />

role in the discovery of cancer risk factors and in the design of personalized treatments.<br />

7


Precision therapies<br />

Recognizing the need for a highly targeted breast cancer radiation therapy, Sunnybrook<br />

developed a treatment called breast brachytherapy, which is suitable for certain women<br />

with early stage breast cancer.<br />

Rather than applying radiation to the entire breast following surgical removal of the<br />

tumour, brachytherapy involves placing tiny radioactive seeds into the former tumour site.<br />

The seeds release a low dose of localized radiation for about one month, targeting any cancer<br />

cells lingering near the tumour site but sparing healthy surrounding tissue.<br />

Implanting the seeds takes just one hour, and the treatment reduces the side-effects and<br />

inconvenience associated with daily whole-breast radiation.<br />

Sunnybrook’s latest brachytherapy research is aiming to advance the treatment by<br />

pairing it with a less invasive surgical procedure. Instead of surgically removing the tumour,<br />

the doctor will destroy it in place by temporarily inserting a heat-generating probe. Then,<br />

in the same session, brachytherapy seeds will be inserted to kill any remaining cancer cells.<br />

With laboratory research now underway, the first patient clinical studies may begin as early<br />

as 2015.<br />

8


St. Vincent<br />

The largest island in the country of St.<br />

Vincent & the <strong>Grenadine</strong>s – ‘main-land’<br />

St. Vincent – is approximately 21 miles<br />

long and 11 miles wide. Its neighbours are<br />

St. Lucia to the north and Grenada to the<br />

south.<br />

The island does not have mega-resorts,<br />

wild night life or shopping malls, but what<br />

it does offer is some of the finest natural<br />

beauty to be found anywhere in the Eastern<br />

Caribbean – it’s an eco-tourist’s paradise.<br />

In the north is a semi-active 4,048-foot<br />

volcano, La Soufrière, up which more energetic<br />

visitors can hike and enjoy unparalleled<br />

views. The less adventurous may choose<br />

to visit the oldest botanical gardens in the<br />

western hemisphere, on the outskirts of the<br />

capital, Kingstown. Here you’ll find a famous<br />

breadfruit tree, a direct descendant of the<br />

ones brought from Tahiti by Captain Bligh of<br />

‘Mutiny on the Bounty’ fame.<br />

The lush volcanic soil is perfect for agriculture<br />

and St. Vincent produces an abundance of<br />

Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique <strong>Air</strong>ways<br />

fruit and vegetables which supply many other<br />

nearby islands. In the beautiful Mesopotamia<br />

Valley you’ll find picturesque terraced farms<br />

and banana plantations. If you’re wondering<br />

how to cool off on a hot day, you can visit one<br />

of the many waterfalls and take a refreshing<br />

dip.<br />

The charming capital, Kingstown has a<br />

great market, a variety of stores and numerous<br />

restaurants serving delicious local cuisine.<br />

On the south coast, you’ll find many small,<br />

friendly hotels and also the popular yacht harbours<br />

at Young Island and Blue Lagoon. St.<br />

Vincent has become one of the major yachting<br />

centres in the region, and being just a stone’s<br />

throw from Bequia, northernmost of the<br />

<strong>Grenadine</strong>s, it’s the ideal place from which to<br />

start your cruise.<br />

St. Vincent’s rich heritage, vibrant culture<br />

and breathtaking beauty make it an unforgettable<br />

destination – somewhere between<br />

heaven and earth ... but a little closer to<br />

heaven.<br />

9 9


Mariners Hotel<br />

The Mariners Hotel is a beautifully designed<br />

21-bedroom boutique hotel, offering total<br />

style and comfort to its guests. Each elegantly<br />

decorated room has air conditioning, en-suite<br />

bathroom facilities, cable television, free wifi<br />

internet, direct-dial telephone, and a private<br />

balcony giving you unparalleled panoramic<br />

views of the turquoise Caribbean Sea.<br />

Mariners Hotel<br />

Villa Beach, Box 859,<br />

Kingstown, St. Vincent, West Indies<br />

SVG Tel: 1-784-457-4000<br />

SVG Fax: 1-784-457-4333<br />

US Tel: 1-201-855-4000<br />

www.marinershotel.com<br />

E-mail: frontdesk@marinershotel.com<br />

10<br />

“Affordable Comfort”


NOREEN PHILLIPS<br />

A Gem of the Antilless<br />

St. Vincent is called, “The Gem of the<br />

Antilles” and my husband and I have been<br />

lucky to sail there and admire its beauty;<br />

however, none shines brighter than its homegrown<br />

gem couturiere, Noreen Phillips.<br />

Written by Dr. Valerie Hastings Gregory<br />

First Photo by Dr. Valerie Hastings Gregory<br />

Interior Photos by Noreen Phillips Couturiere<br />

11<br />

11


Although she located her shop in<br />

St. Johns, Antigua over twentytwo<br />

years ago, her artistry was<br />

shaped by her St. Vincent roots where the<br />

rainbows in the valleys, lush tropical rain<br />

forests, idyllic beaches, beautiful turquoise<br />

waters, and colourful coral reefs were to<br />

become an inspiration for the fashion icon’s<br />

exquisite fabrics, beading, and designs.<br />

While inspired by the environment in which<br />

she grew up, her skills as a designer were<br />

honed by her Vincentian mother who was<br />

a talented seamstress and her grandmother<br />

who sold textiles. The beauty of Noreen<br />

Phillips’ native island, along with the<br />

industriousness and talent of her Vincentian<br />

family, shaped what was to become a<br />

globally acclaimed fashion powerhouse…a<br />

gem to be claimed by St. Vincent.<br />

When you go to Antigua, set your sights<br />

on Historic Redcliffe Quay, St. Johns.<br />

Prepare to feast your eyes on exquisite fashion<br />

displayed in a quaint shop distinguished<br />

by Noreen Phillips’ elegant black and white<br />

logo. You will not regret your decision to<br />

leave beautiful St. Vincent for a day so that<br />

you can delight in the vast array of stunning<br />

designs, materials, and baubles that Noreen<br />

Phillips has to offer!<br />

I can describe what you will experience<br />

because twelve years ago, during my first<br />

trip to Antigua, I happily discovered Noreen<br />

Phillips when I convinced my husband to<br />

“stop over” in St. Johns before going “beach<br />

hopping”. When I entered the shop I had<br />

a sense of reverence for the presentation of<br />

spectacular dresses, blouses, shirts, skirts,<br />

trousers, and accessories that spread out<br />

before me. It was love at first sight! Just as a<br />

child might feel overwhelmed by the wealth<br />

of opportunities in a candy store, I did not<br />

12


know how to begin choosing from Noreen<br />

Phillips’ fashion gems. Luckily for me I was<br />

greeted by the designer herself as she sat at<br />

her sewing machine in the corner of her shop,<br />

altering one of her designs for a very lucky<br />

client.<br />

From then on I was expertly guided into<br />

selecting the right fashions by both Noreen<br />

and her assistant. Noreen was able to tuck,<br />

trim, and sew three of her gems so they fit me<br />

like a glove and she delivered the pieces at the<br />

end of the day, after our “beach hopping”!<br />

As one who sews, I have such an appreciation<br />

for what Noreen Phillips designs and<br />

personalizes so that her clients feel special and<br />

uniquely lovely.<br />

Since that initial visit to Noreen Phillips’<br />

shop, over the years, Noreen has designed<br />

and sewn her way into both my husbands’<br />

Come experience our<br />

islands on fun and<br />

informative tours<br />

• Coastal and <strong>Grenadine</strong><br />

Island Cruises<br />

• Whale and Dolphin<br />

Watching, Snorkeling,<br />

Waterfalls & Sunset<br />

Cruises<br />

• Island Eco Land Tours<br />

• Hotel Packages &<br />

Private Party Charters<br />

• We get you there<br />

quickly and safely.<br />

(784) 457-4477<br />

Cel (784) 528-8858<br />

www.fantaseatours.com<br />

info@fantaseatours.com<br />

Villa Beach, St. Vincent<br />

13


and my hearts; we now consider her our<br />

Caribbean family. Noreen greets everyone<br />

as they enter her shop; she then explores and<br />

defines their individual style so that each feels<br />

extraordinary wearing the garment she creates<br />

for them. Because Noreen has become<br />

our friend, we also have observed that her<br />

generousness of spirit is not just evident<br />

at her customer service, it is evident in her<br />

life. Whether it is helping a stranger whose<br />

car has broken down, finding a doctor for a<br />

tourist needing medical care, or driving those<br />

without cars so they can vote in a national<br />

election, Noreen gives of herself fully. I feel<br />

that Noreen’s passion, perseverance, creativity<br />

and commitment to service were fashioned<br />

by growing up in St. Vincent. St. Vincent has<br />

every right to claim her as one of their most<br />

iconic “gems”. n<br />

14


Hadley Blooms: A Complex Arrangement<br />

Written by Sarah Venable<br />

Photos by Cheryl Hutchinson<br />

Orchid photos by Scott Hadley<br />

A<br />

t Union Estate on the windward side of St. Vincent,<br />

the Hadley family has farmed a rugged Eden since<br />

the 1800s.<br />

Though on a smaller scale, the Hadley family is still at it<br />

today. Originally 3000 acres and now down to 60, the property<br />

has produced whatever the times demanded, from arrowroot<br />

to coconuts, cotton, cocoa, nutmeg, black pepper and bananas.<br />

Soon, you’ll be invited to visit Hadley Blooms there.<br />

Beach Bar and Seafood Restaurant<br />

VIP Service on<br />

the beach!<br />

Lunch and Dinner<br />

served daily!<br />

New<br />

HOT Spot<br />

on Union<br />

Island!<br />

Reservations: 458.8195 | Free shuttle: 454.1888<br />

15<br />

15


Muscular and reserved, manager Scott<br />

Hadley loves his role, despite challenges that<br />

go generations back and still crop up today.<br />

Earlier Hadleys supplied copra to the nearby<br />

coconut oil factory. Then that closed. When<br />

Scott’s father grew bananas, the fruit was<br />

known as green gold. Then exports were<br />

halted when global regulations changed. In<br />

2004 and 2010, hurricanes swept away much<br />

of the Hadley Blooms’ infrastructure; in<br />

places, ripped shade cloth still billows in the<br />

breeze. Faced with setbacks like these, what’s<br />

a smart farmer to do Bring more factors to<br />

the equation, i.e. diversify.<br />

Five acres of the farm are now devoted to<br />

production for the cut flower market. It’s a<br />

serious operation—the island’s sole provider<br />

of anthuriums and the largest grower of ginger<br />

lilies and heliconia in its varying forms.<br />

With a degree in horticulture, Scott<br />

knows how to make them thrive. Shade cloth<br />

governs the light that reaches the anthuriums,<br />

poking up like hope itself from long<br />

beds of coconut shells, whose rotting process<br />

provides the proper nutrients. Irrigation hoses<br />

keep the flowers moist, and workers toil to<br />

keep them free from weeds, bugs and disease.<br />

At harvest, they go to the packing shed,<br />

stacked with rows of sturdy boxes. Then they<br />

go to hotels and private houses on St. Vincent,<br />

Mustique and the other <strong>Grenadine</strong> islands.<br />

‘The flowers are just one way we’ve<br />

diversified’, said Scott. ‘We also do potted<br />

plants—including orchids—and landscaping<br />

and a bit of forestry.’ The farm’s mahogany<br />

provided his father with timber to build a few<br />

houses.<br />

Hadley Blooms is also the biggest chicken<br />

farm in St. Vincent, supplying the island with<br />

1800 eggs a day. Their coconut trees produce<br />

over 1000 water nuts a week. (On his To Do<br />

list: hire someone to sell it at the top of the<br />

Barracuda<br />

Restaurant & Bar<br />

Clifton, Union Island<br />

Italian and local cooking<br />

offering Breakfast, Lunch<br />

and Dinner<br />

784-458-8571<br />

784-527-5163<br />

16


oad.) They do fruits and vegetables as well.<br />

Scott Hadley is still in the banana business,<br />

but not as a grower: ‘We buy them from<br />

trusted suppliers, and deliver them twice a<br />

week to supermarkets and hotels all over the<br />

island,’ he explained. But first, he ripens them.<br />

This entails maintaining a constant temperature<br />

of 18 degrees centigrade, while nozzles<br />

introduce ethylene gas into a specially fitted<br />

container.<br />

The ethylene gas is a plant hormone that<br />

many fruits, including bananas, produce<br />

anyway. The controlled procedure allows the<br />

fruit to be picked when green, which extends<br />

its shelf life. His container is an update of the<br />

ancient Chinese practice of burning incense<br />

in a closed room to speed the ripening of<br />

pears!<br />

And then there’s the expanse of palms,<br />

colourful croton, winking little blossoms of<br />

gardenia and hemispherical heads of peachy<br />

Ixora. Many of these are earmarked for the<br />

new airport at Argyle. Scott has had to tend<br />

them for years while waiting for the airport’s<br />

completion.<br />

Slowly but surely, Hadley Blooms is<br />

grooming another bloom to add to its<br />

arrangement. Sometime in early 2015, Scott<br />

will offer tours of the nurseries. In addition to<br />

learning about business and blossoms, visitors<br />

will discover coconut water, exotic fruits, and<br />

unfamiliar trees. Shaded by gazebos on the<br />

riverside lawn, they’ll enjoy lunch and examine<br />

local art and crafts.<br />

It will be beautiful. Stay tuned. Then go! n<br />

Specializing in selling private islands and land for development. Offering a wide variety of holiday and long-term villa rentals.<br />

Clifton, Union Island • St. Vincent and the <strong>Grenadine</strong>s • 1.784.593.1713<br />

1.784.497.1644 * www.grenadinesislandestates.com<br />

latelier<br />

17


BEQUIA EASTER REGATTA<br />

APRIL 2 – 6, 2015<br />

Thirty-three unbroken years of dedicated<br />

direction by the all-volunteer Bequia Sailing<br />

Club has seen the legendary Bequia Easter<br />

Regatta evolve from a small, local sailing<br />

get-together into the biggest sporting and<br />

tourism event in the country.<br />

Success breeds success, and with the vital<br />

support of its sponsors, the regatta has<br />

continued to grow. Regatta 2013 saw the<br />

Sailing Club celebrate a record-breaking<br />

entry of 54 yachts and 29 local “doubleenders”,<br />

emphatically affirming Bequia’s status<br />

as the largest yacht regatta in the southern<br />

Caribbean. In fact, Bequia’s four-day Easter<br />

Regatta is renowned the world over for its<br />

unique blend of thrilling local boat racing,<br />

exciting, superbly-run yacht racing and the<br />

warm, small-island hospitality that is Bequia’s<br />

trademark.<br />

On the yacht side, the Bequia Easter<br />

Regatta’s CSA-accredited series of races<br />

18<br />

For more information contact: The Bequia Sailing Club<br />

Email: bsc@vincysurf.com www.begos.com/easterregatta


continue to draw sailors from near and far to<br />

take part in this hugely popular event. Yachts<br />

are divided into Racing Class, two Cruising<br />

Classes (including one for live-aboards and<br />

cruisers who are not regular competitors),<br />

and two One-Design Classes. The biggest<br />

draw in recent years has been Bequia’s J/24<br />

One-Design Class whose six-race series in<br />

Bequia also decides the annual J24 Southern<br />

Caribbean Championship.<br />

The regatta’s eagerly anticipated local boat<br />

races draw ever greater crowds of followers<br />

each year. The design of the traditional<br />

Bequia double-ender or “two-bow” boat is<br />

based on that of the 26-foot New England<br />

whaleboats which regularly visited the<br />

<strong>Grenadine</strong> waters during the first half of the<br />

19 th century. Today’s double-ender boats<br />

are now built purely to race, but within the<br />

fleet there is one notable exception. The fully<br />

restored and rebuilt 140-year old Iron Duke -<br />

cornerstone of “Old Bill” Wallace’s legendary<br />

Bequia whaling fleet in the late 19 th century<br />

- continues to proudly compete in the regatta<br />

to this day.<br />

Lay Day Sunday is when most yachtsmen<br />

take the chance to relax and enjoy the start<br />

of Sunday’s local boat races and the everpopular<br />

Sandcastle Competition, or just<br />

to chill out with the landlubbers on one of<br />

Bequia’s many beautiful beaches. A fearless<br />

few however choose to compete in Easter<br />

Sunday’s “Round the Island” single-handed<br />

Yacht Race - the ultimate seamanship<br />

challenge for the solo sailor and his yacht.<br />

Easter in Bequia marks a major peak in the<br />

tourism season. Hotels, villas and apartments<br />

are booked far in advance, restaurants<br />

and bars prepare to welcome hundreds of<br />

visitors, and a variety of shore-based activities<br />

are organised. Regatta fever is in the air and<br />

just about everyone is infected with the<br />

excitement of being in Bequia to celebrate<br />

tradition and excellence in sailing on the<br />

island’s biggest weekend of the year.<br />

We provide a retail outlet for fine imported wines<br />

and liquor as well as local and imported beer, bottle<br />

water and soft drinks, teas, coffee and cider.<br />

Distributor for Mount Gay Rum and Remy Cointreau<br />

porducts in the <strong>Grenadine</strong>s. We offer a carefully<br />

selected inventory to suit your taste and budget.<br />

19


Bequia<br />

Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique <strong>Air</strong>ways<br />

Bequia, the name derived from a Carib<br />

Indian word meaning ‘Island of the<br />

Clouds’, lies nine miles south of St. Vincent<br />

and is just 7 square miles.<br />

Bequia is home to just under 5000<br />

people. The inhabitants, some of whom are<br />

descendants of 19th-century Scottish sailors,<br />

are friendly, easy-going and always happy to<br />

strike up a conversation with broad smiles on<br />

their faces.<br />

The island is steeped in sea-faring<br />

traditions such as boat-building, fishing<br />

and whaling. Although there’s an airport,<br />

the majority of visitors still arrive by boat. It<br />

wasn’t so long ago that the local ferry, the old<br />

schooner Friendship Rose, would be piled<br />

high with passengers, fruit, vegetables and<br />

possibly a few goats and chickens as well.<br />

The main harbour at Admiralty Bay is<br />

one of the most popular cruising yachtsmen’s<br />

hang-outs in the region. Along the waterfront<br />

you can find a number of great places to eat,<br />

drink and party – all within a few minutes’<br />

walk of each other.<br />

The picturesque capital of Port Elizabeth<br />

has a sleepy, old-world ambience and you can<br />

walk from one end to the other in 20 minutes.<br />

There’s a great handicraft market and also an<br />

excellent fresh fruit and vegetable market. Ask<br />

for directions and you could be told to ‘turn<br />

left at the almond tree’.<br />

Apart from world-class beaches, and<br />

excellent snorkelling and diving, there are<br />

some wonderful hiking trails. Worthwhile is a<br />

visit to the rugged east coast, which is windswept,<br />

thinly populated, and has stunning<br />

views of the Atlantic.<br />

Bequia – sweet, sweet, sweet!<br />

20


Mustique<br />

Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique <strong>Air</strong>ways<br />

The mere mention of Mustique conjures up<br />

images of fabulous villas, European Royalty<br />

and glamorous pop- stars; certainly, this privately<br />

owned island, originally purchased<br />

and developed by Colin Tennant in 1958,<br />

is a playground for the rich and famous.<br />

However, there’s a lot more to Mustique<br />

than glitz and glamour. For starters, the<br />

three square mile island has some of the finest<br />

beaches in the <strong>Grenadine</strong>s –Macaroni<br />

Beach, on the east coast, is consistently rated<br />

as one of the ten top beaches in the southern<br />

Caribbean with its ‘Whiter than White’ sand<br />

and its ‘Bluer than Blue’ water, and a shaded<br />

picnic area under the palms.<br />

Although small, Mustique is fairly hilly,<br />

so walking long distances can be fairly hard<br />

work – the best way to get around is by mule<br />

(not a donkey, but a gasoline-powered golf<br />

cart – though if you drive one you’ll know why<br />

it’s called a mule!). For genuine equestrians,<br />

there’s also an excellent stable where you can<br />

hire thoroughbred horses and gallop down<br />

deserted white sand beaches.<br />

With its gently rolling hills, low-key ambience,<br />

amazing beaches and great diving,<br />

it’s easy to see why the island is such a popular<br />

destination. Britannia Bay, the yacht<br />

harbour, is the main focus of activity with a<br />

small fishing village, a couple of stores and<br />

the legendary Basil’s Bar, home to the annual<br />

Mustique Blues Festival.<br />

The building of private homes has been<br />

limited to 140, and the island, whilst offering<br />

a complete infrastructure of roads, water, electricity<br />

and other facilities, retains a leisurely<br />

feel and a distinctive character of tranquil elegance<br />

that is uniquely Mustique.<br />

21


For some local luxury


www.bequiabeach.com | +1(784) 458 1600 | Friendship Beach, Bequia


An Exclusive Private Island Retreat<br />

The Cotton House<br />

+1 784 456 4777<br />

cottonhouse.net<br />

24<br />

The Villa Collection<br />

+1 784 488 8300<br />

mustique-island.com


Basil’s Bar • Mustique<br />

Established in 1976, Basil’s Bar is built on stilts on a rock overlooking the<br />

majestic Britannia Bay. Voted “one of the best bars in the world” by<br />

Newsweek since 1987, and capturing the #37 spot on CNN Travel’s list<br />

of the World’s 50 Best Beach Bars. It’s “a place where sailors party with<br />

business moguls, fashion models, gardeners, rock stars and school<br />

teachers”. Basil’s has a reputation as one of the finest seafood restaurants<br />

in the Caribbean.<br />

Join us year-round for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and our Wednesday<br />

night BBQ Jump-up. Basil’s is home of the only Blues Festival in the<br />

Caribbean happening January 21 – February 4, 2015, and our New Year’s<br />

Eve celebration should not be missed.<br />

At Basil’s in Villa, just across from Young Island on St. Vincent, carries gift<br />

items and contemporary furniture from Bali and other parts of Asia. Our<br />

Boutique at Basil’s Bar on Mustique features great silks from India, casual<br />

wear, silk Kaftans by Camilla, and our famous Basil’s Bar T-Shirts.<br />

Just up the road from Basil’s Bar is the Mustique General Store which<br />

stocks fine wines, cheeses and gourmet products. Across Forever features<br />

antiques from Bali and India, furniture from Asia and beyond, a magnificent<br />

collection of contemporary pieces, home furnishings, fabulous lighting,<br />

accessories and more. Like us on Facebook, and check us out when you<br />

next visit Mustique<br />

Downstairs Cobblestone Inn is where you find Basil’s Bar Kingstown. Sit<br />

and relax in air-conditioned comfort and enjoy a delightful cocktail, our daily<br />

buffet lunch, á la carte breakfast, lunch or dinner. We are also a full-service<br />

catering company for lunch, dinners, weddings and any special occasion.<br />

Email basilsbarkingstown@vincysurf.com or telephone (784) 457-2713.<br />

Basil’s Bar<br />

Mustique • St. Vincent<br />

www.basilsbar.com<br />

Tel: (784) 488-8407/8350/8405<br />

Fax: (784) 456-5825


MUSTIQUE BLUES<br />

Written by Jackson Thomas<br />

Photos by Francisco Leo<br />

The roads are lined by banana fields -<br />

grooved and pitted by rain. They lead<br />

to distant villages - especially distant<br />

when travelled by foot in tropical heat that is<br />

kind to the banana - but hot on ‘de’ feet. More<br />

roads wind along windy coastlines, traverse<br />

volcanoes, and forde pristine mountain<br />

streams. These are roads that remind us that<br />

progress comes in its own good time, and the<br />

time is now for St Vincent.<br />

In the 1950s, a young man was growing up<br />

with his grandmother, in the heart of banana<br />

country on the windward coast of St Vincent.<br />

Basil Charles was that young man; his mother<br />

had died when he was just nine so he lived<br />

with his aging grandmother (and a succession<br />

of cousins and uncles) in a tiny house with<br />

no running water or electricity. School was<br />

important, but eventually it became a luxury,<br />

and Basil, ‘Man of the House’ set out to work<br />

at the tender age of 12. Tenacious, quick<br />

minded and driven, Basil transcended his<br />

youthful life of poverty and built an empire<br />

with Basil’s Bar. He never forgot his roots,<br />

and vowed to see to the education of as many<br />

focused hard working young people as he<br />

could.<br />

Basil’s Bar in Mustique was already internationally<br />

known and celebrated for its easy<br />

island hospitality, its celebrity clientele and of<br />

course, Basil himself—at the centre of almost<br />

every party. Not one to be told he could not<br />

do something, Basil, inspired by his blues<br />

recording artist friend, Dana Gillespie, made<br />

a champagne fueled decision to mount a Blues<br />

Festival at Basil’s Bar. The very next season,<br />

true to his word, in 1996 the blues descended<br />

on Mustique for a full two weeks of nightly<br />

shows.<br />

Over those twenty years, Dana recruited<br />

dozens of blues musicians and recording artists<br />

who she convinced to join her on stage in<br />

Mustique for a two week unpaid gig to benefit<br />

underfunded school children in St. Vincent.<br />

26


From those festivals came live CD<br />

recordings. All nineteen CDs are available on<br />

iTunes. Mustique Blues Festival patron and<br />

resident, Felix Dennis has released a commemorative<br />

CD in 2014. The companion CD<br />

booklet tells the story of the festival, and the<br />

CD is a compilation of more than a decade of<br />

playful and compelling performances by Felix<br />

Denis himself at the Mustique Blues Festival.<br />

Patrons of Basil’s bar in Mustique often<br />

crane their necks in expectation of sighting a<br />

famous regular. The Mustique Blues Festival<br />

has had its share of impressive surprise guest<br />

artists: violinist Nigel Kennedy, Rolling Stone<br />

Mick Jagger, publisher and poet Felix Dennis,<br />

from Steely Dan Donald Fagen, Bollywood<br />

star Sabina Singh, designer and musician<br />

Daphne Guinness and many others.<br />

Proceeds from the blues festival, and the<br />

sale of recordings, have funded hundreds<br />

of school children in St Vincent and programme<br />

enhancements: scholarship, school<br />

feeding, computer lab, literacy and sports<br />

programmes. Not only has the Mustique<br />

Blues Festival played more than 250 shows,<br />

but has also raised hundreds of thousands of<br />

dollars for education.<br />

The festival could not be a success were it<br />

not for the music. Steel blues, smoky Chicago<br />

blues, acoustic field blues, boogie-woogie<br />

piano blues and vintage naughty torch songs<br />

float across the jewel blue sea from Basil’s Bar<br />

each year. The Twentieth Annual Mustique<br />

Blues Festival will be held in Mustique from<br />

January 21 until February 4, 2015. n<br />

27<br />

27


The Southern <strong>Grenadine</strong>s<br />

Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique <strong>Air</strong>ways<br />

It was when tourism was introduced in the<br />

20th century that the <strong>Grenadine</strong> islands<br />

really started to flourish with their dazzling<br />

beauty, crystal-clear waters, stunning<br />

beaches and spectacular coral gardens.<br />

Although the islands lie close together,<br />

each has a charm and character of its own –<br />

from the elegant grandeur of privately-owned<br />

Mustique, the rich diversity of Canouan, the<br />

timelessness of Mayreau, the exclusivity of<br />

Palm Island and Petit St. Vincent Resorts,<br />

the relative bustle of Union Island to the pure<br />

wonder of the Tobago Cays.<br />

The Tobago Cays, a pristine marine park,<br />

must surely be the jewel in St.Vincent’s crown<br />

– five deserted islands set behind a horseshoe<br />

reef in one of the most magnificent settings it<br />

is possible to imagine. Accessible only by boat,<br />

the cays are one of the natural wonders of the<br />

western hemisphere and a must for any visitor.<br />

28


Union Island<br />

Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique <strong>Air</strong>ways<br />

Located just 40 miles south of St. Vincent,<br />

Union Island, the crossroad of the<br />

<strong>Grenadine</strong>s, is often called ‘Little Tahiti’<br />

because of its high, almost vertical peaks<br />

which, on a clear day, are visible from St.<br />

Vincent’s capital, Kingstown.<br />

For yachtsmen, Clifton Harbour (like<br />

Bequia) is a main provisioning stop, and the<br />

place to obtain fuel, ice, water or internet<br />

access. The main harbour has two small marinas,<br />

moorings, and a great anchorage behind<br />

Newland’s Reef close to two interesting and<br />

somewhat unique islands – Newland’s Island<br />

(unique as it has a population of one) and<br />

Happy Island (unique because it was built by<br />

an enterprising gentleman named Shanti. He<br />

spent a year dumping several boat-loads of<br />

sand, conch shells, coconut and palm fronds<br />

into an area of water just inside the reef thus<br />

creating his own island).<br />

The town of Clifton is a ‘bustling’ by<br />

<strong>Grenadine</strong> standards and boasts great places<br />

to eat at reasonable prices. There are several<br />

stores and water-front guest houses, and the<br />

local people (the island has a population of<br />

around 2,500) are warm and friendly.<br />

With a small airport and several local boat<br />

operators, Union is the perfect place for a<br />

day cruise to the central <strong>Grenadine</strong>s, being<br />

less than an hour from the neighbouring<br />

islands of Mayreau, Petit St. Vincent and the<br />

Tobago Cays, none of which can be accessed<br />

by air. There are regular flights to Union not<br />

only from St. Vincent, Bequia, Mustique and<br />

Canouan, but also from Barbados.<br />

29


Explore the beautiful islands of<br />

St Vincent and the <strong>Grenadine</strong>s<br />

MAYREAU MORPION PALM ISLAND MUSTIQUE BEQUIA TOBAGO CAYS CANOUAN<br />

Ti Marouba<br />

52ft long catamaran<br />

Max capacity – 40 persons<br />

Sun Spirit<br />

62ft long catamaran<br />

Max capacity – 70 persons<br />

Sky Flirt<br />

85ft long catamaran<br />

Max capacity – 80 persons<br />

Wind and Sea<br />

SPECIALIST IN DAY SAILING CHARTERS<br />

www.grenadines-windandsea.com • windandsealtd@gmail.com<br />

Bougainvilla, Clifton, Union Island • Tel: 1 784 458 8678 • Cell: 1 784 493 3128


Kiteboarding<br />

in the <strong>Grenadine</strong>s<br />

Written by Heather Grant<br />

Photos by Heather and Iain Grant<br />

If you are looking for some good kiteboarding sites, consider visiting the<br />

Southern <strong>Grenadine</strong>s in the Eastern Caribbean. It already has a plethora of<br />

attributes to recommend it for a sailing or land based vacation and kiteboarding<br />

has now been added to the long list.<br />

For the uninitiated, kitesurfing or kiteboarding is a surface water sport<br />

combining aspects of wakeboarding, windsurfing, surfing, paragliding, and<br />

gymnastics into one extreme sport. A kitesurfer or kiteboarder harnesses the power<br />

of the wind with a large controllable power kite to be propelled across the water on<br />

a kiteboard similar to a wakeboard or a small surfboard, with or without foot-straps<br />

or bindings.<br />

31


If you are looking for a base from which<br />

to kiteboard, check out Union Island in the<br />

Southern <strong>Grenadine</strong>s. It has everything you<br />

need - great kiteboarding sites, hotels and<br />

other accommodation, restaurants, bars and<br />

other ‘fun’ spots. There are flights in and out<br />

daily, plus a superb climate with consistent<br />

trade winds, which are a necessity for getting<br />

out on the water to kite.<br />

The season for kiting is from early<br />

December to the end of April. During these<br />

months the conditions are ideal almost every<br />

day. The wind is generally 20 knots from<br />

the east, good for kites from 8 to 12. In the<br />

<strong>Grenadine</strong>s the environment is breathtakingly<br />

beautiful, with the bright turquoise sea<br />

beneath your board, white sand beaches<br />

whipping past you and the brilliant sunshine<br />

warming you as you ride.<br />

In the immediate vicinity of Union Island<br />

are several excellent locations:<br />

• Saltwhistle Bay in Mayreau<br />

• Tobago Cays Marine Park - launching<br />

only in Jamesby<br />

• Clifton in Union Island - in front of the<br />

yacht anchorage<br />

• Frigate Rock, in the southeast of Union -<br />

perfect for beginners and freestyle<br />

• Palm Island - confirmed spot with lagoon<br />

and waves<br />

• Morpion (near Petit St. Vincent) - a good<br />

riding spot.<br />

32


You can also do a downwinder from island<br />

to island and discover for yourself all the<br />

fabulous spots around this area.<br />

Unlike many locations further north,<br />

the southern <strong>Grenadine</strong>s is not crowded.<br />

It is relatively undiscovered, allowing a<br />

kiteboarder unobstructed scope for practising<br />

this sport.<br />

In addition to quite a few locations with<br />

ideal conditions for experienced kiteboarders,<br />

there are a couple of schools that will teach<br />

you how to get started in this newly popular<br />

water sport, or help you polish your existing<br />

skills. You can check online and obtain<br />

details on what they offer - lessons and<br />

prices, the possibility of renting equipment,<br />

accommodation assistance, as well as help<br />

with travel arrangements. Most schools<br />

will be able to offer you local knowledge to<br />

prevent costly mistakes when making plans.<br />

Why not take up a new sport at the same<br />

time as enjoying the spectacular beauty of the<br />

<strong>Grenadine</strong>s. Kiteboard by day and enjoy all<br />

that the islands have to offer by night. It’s a<br />

win win vacation solution. n<br />

33


Mayreau<br />

Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique <strong>Air</strong>ways<br />

Situated 7 miles south of Canouan and<br />

with a population of only 250, Mayreau<br />

can only be reached by sailing boat or<br />

ferry – once there it’s very hard to leave.<br />

This little gem of the Caribbean has<br />

unspoiled, postcard picture beaches and bays<br />

and is ideally situated for a ‘land and sea’ vacation.<br />

From there it is easy to take short trips by<br />

sail or speedboat to the nearby islands. Days<br />

can be spent picnicking and sunbathing on<br />

the wide swathes of deserted beaches or snorkelling<br />

in the calm, clear waters – this is the<br />

quintessential place to get away from it all.<br />

Mayreau is a small island and therefore perfect<br />

to explore on foot. With only one main<br />

road running between Saltwhistle Bay and<br />

Saline Bay, the island’s entire length can be<br />

walked in an hour. A short hike up ‘Station<br />

Hill’ brings visitors to the picturesque village<br />

of Old Wall with its quaint church from where<br />

there are spectacular vistas of the Caribbean<br />

Sea and nearby islands. There are several bars<br />

and informal restaurants offering home cooking,<br />

refreshments and where guests are treated<br />

like long lost friends.<br />

Known for its safe anchorage, Saltwhistle<br />

Bay in the north has a beautiful tree-lined<br />

beach and exceptionally calm water that is<br />

perfect for swimming. All of the beaches have<br />

powdery white sand and even the windward<br />

beaches are protected by reefs.<br />

There’s no glitz and glamour in Mayreau<br />

and life hasn’t changed much in the past 40<br />

years or so – it’s an undemanding place with a<br />

timeless charm where simple pleasures make a<br />

stay here well worthwhile.<br />

34


Canouan<br />

Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique <strong>Air</strong>ways<br />

Unspoiled and virtually undiscovered,<br />

Canouan is a lush tropical paradise in the<br />

southern <strong>Grenadine</strong>s with wide, white<br />

sandy beaches, crystal clear and calm<br />

blue waters, lush, green hilly terrain, and<br />

one of the largest living coral reefs in<br />

the Caribbean that teems with brightly<br />

coloured aquatic life offering incredible<br />

diving and snorkelling.<br />

Canouan is located in the heart of the<br />

<strong>Grenadine</strong>s, within easy reach of neighbouring<br />

Mustique, Mayreau and the Tobago Cays<br />

and 110 miles southwest of Barbados. With<br />

direct flights from Barbados, Puerto Rico, and<br />

St. Vincent, visitors can now enjoy painless air<br />

access.<br />

Canouan is just five square miles in size<br />

and formerly a community of some 700 farmers<br />

and fishermen. The now expanding local<br />

population still includes fishermen, proud of<br />

their community heritage as boat builders and<br />

harvesters of the sea. Models of the traditional<br />

wooden boats are still lovingly constructed by<br />

hand. Laughter prevails as a vital ingredient<br />

of this community, and the sounds of happy<br />

children and elders create a feeling of traveling<br />

into an easier place and time. Canouan<br />

manages to retain a distinct quality inherited<br />

from another time in history.<br />

Boasting an airport runway, a luxury resort<br />

with one a spectacular championship 18-hole<br />

golf course designed by Jim Fazio and a natural<br />

harbour for yachts, Canouan has become<br />

more and more popular with visitors. The<br />

variety of amenities, restaurants and accommodation<br />

has grown and there are now many<br />

excellent value guesthouses where visitors will<br />

be assured of a warm welcome. In spite of all<br />

the development, the principal settlement of<br />

Charlestown retains its distinctly Caribbean<br />

flavour and has not lost any of its island charm.<br />

35


Palm Island<br />

Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique <strong>Air</strong>ways<br />

It was originally called Prune Island. The<br />

former owners (John Caldwell and his wife<br />

Mary) renamed it Palm when they set about<br />

to transform the island into a truly palm<br />

island by planting hundreds of coconut<br />

trees.<br />

Rob Barrett, the proud owner of Palm<br />

Island, has made it into what can arguably be<br />

called the perfect resort location.<br />

It is located just about a mile from Union<br />

Island where a private boat will meet and<br />

transport you to this privately owned and<br />

exclusive island resort which is all that is on<br />

this 135 acre island paradise.<br />

White sandy beaches and crystal clear<br />

water surround Palm Island. It is the perfect<br />

getaway for nature lovers and those who want<br />

to relax and do nothing but enjoy this fabulous,<br />

all-inclusive resort. Casuarina Beach, a<br />

special favourite amongst resort guests, runs<br />

along the entire western side of the island.<br />

Non-resident visitors are always welcome<br />

provided that prior arrangements are made.<br />

Tobabo Cays Horseshoe Reef<br />

36


Petit St. Vincent<br />

Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique <strong>Air</strong>ways<br />

PSV is a tranquil private island paradise<br />

tucked away in the southern <strong>Grenadine</strong>s, just<br />

5 miles from Union Island.<br />

PSV is a popular hideaway resort in the<br />

Caribbean. This unique private island caters<br />

to a discerning set of visitors, offering 22 one<br />

and two bedroom cottages that provide the<br />

ultimate in privacy and luxury with no telephone<br />

or TV in the rooms. Guests simply<br />

hoist a yellow flag to summon room service (a<br />

waiter will appear in a mini-moke car) or a red<br />

flag to just be left alone.<br />

Barefoot elegance and unobtrusive attentive<br />

service have made PSV a favourite with<br />

travellers who enjoy the pristine beauty of<br />

this mildly sloped, lush garden of Eden, surrounded<br />

by two miles of white sand beach and<br />

turquoise waters.<br />

The sheltered channel anchorage is popular<br />

with yachtsmen who can come ashore<br />

for the best tropical drinks, light lunches and<br />

evening bar snacks.<br />

37


BARBADOS AND ITS HERITAGE<br />

Written and Photos by Rosemary Parkinson,<br />

author Culinaria: The Caribbean, Nyam Jamaica & Barbados Bu’n-Bu’n<br />

In Barbados June was declared Heritage<br />

Month, celebrated annually during<br />

which time an interesting programme<br />

of events highlighting heritage takes place.<br />

When in 2003 Dame Billie Miller suggested<br />

nominating Historic Bridgetown as a<br />

UNESCO World Heritage site with Professor<br />

Henry Fraser proposing the addition of the<br />

Garrison, many did not believe that on June<br />

25th, 2011 UNESCO would bestow this<br />

gift on what is now known as the UNESCO<br />

World Heritage Site - Historic Bridgetown<br />

and its Garrison.<br />

Stretching from what is known as The<br />

Garrison on the south-eastern side of<br />

Barbados that housed the headquarters for<br />

the British Army and Navy; running across<br />

the coastal area known as Bay Street and its<br />

close environs and taking in quite a large<br />

portion of the city of Bridgetown. This area<br />

had earlier been described as ‘an outstanding<br />

example of British colonial architecture<br />

consisting of a well-preserved old town built<br />

in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries testifying<br />

to the spread of Great Britain’s Atlantic<br />

colonial empire …’ following with ‘the<br />

property also includes a nearby military<br />

garrison which consists of numerous historic<br />

buildings. ‘ The serpentine urban layout<br />

of this historic site makes it different to the<br />

Spanish and Dutch colonial cities within<br />

the Caribbean which were built along a<br />

grid plan. George Washington House at<br />

The Garrison where George spent his only<br />

holiday abroad ever, offers night and day<br />

tours; the changing of the Sentry at The<br />

Main Guard & Clock Tower is received<br />

well and the newly-opened ‘secret’ tunnels<br />

below ground - all bring joy to those locals<br />

and visitors who understand the importance<br />

of heritage. A visit to the Hilton Hotel<br />

at Needham’s Point shows off not only a<br />

38


eautiful beach and luxurious facilities but<br />

also a fully restored lighthouse, with remnants<br />

of the fort and its cannons. Barbados<br />

has the best examples of 17th century iron<br />

cannons that include the rare Victoria Gun<br />

& Commonwealth Cannon. As one of the<br />

earliest established towns with a fortified port<br />

in the Caribbean, Bridgetown – now almost<br />

400 years old - was the focus of the tradebased<br />

English expansion in the Americas;<br />

its 17th Century medieval English layout,<br />

with its serpentine streets, also supported the<br />

development and transformation of creolized<br />

forms of architecture that included Georgian<br />

with a Caribbean twist. The natural harbour<br />

that is Carlisle Bay was the first port of call<br />

on the trans-Atlantic crossing – perfectly<br />

positioned for the expansion of British<br />

imperial power. Although walking around<br />

will bring some beautiful sights … stop at<br />

Careenage where the Waterfront Café not<br />

only provides an excellent ‘watering hole’ for<br />

‘foodies’ but an opportunity to view yachts<br />

anchored close by, as well as the Parliament<br />

buildings and their museum across the water<br />

– the site of Colonial administration serving<br />

today as the meeting place for both chambers<br />

of Parliament since 1874, and consisting of<br />

two buildings in the neo-Gothic architectural<br />

style reminiscent of the Victorian era of Great<br />

Britain. Another building worth looking at is<br />

the Free Library, still in need of restoration,<br />

that overlooks the newly-restored cenotaph -<br />

once the dramatic centre of a fountain near the<br />

still-stunning building known as ‘The Mutual’<br />

at the top end of Broad St - although situated<br />

north on Broad St, it is known as the bottom<br />

… yes … what do you expect from an island<br />

that says one is going down to St. Lucy in the<br />

north and up to Bridgetown in the south. The<br />

Nidhe Israel Synagogue is one of the earliest<br />

in the western hemisphere, taken over by The<br />

Barbados National Trust and with the help<br />

of the local Jewish community restored to its<br />

original beauty. It houses a museum that traces<br />

Jewish history dating back to the arrival of the<br />

earliest Jews in 1628 highlighting their contribution<br />

to Barbadian society.<br />

Barbados is indeed rich in historic heritage. n<br />

39


Montserrat<br />

The Emerald Isle<br />

Written and Photos by Rosemary Parkinson,<br />

author Culinaria: The Caribbean, Nyam Jamaica<br />

& Barbados Bu’n-Bu’n<br />

Lying 27 miles northeast of Antigua,<br />

called ‘Alliouagana’ (Land of the<br />

Prickly Bush) by its first inhabitants,<br />

the Caribs, then ‘Santa Maria de Montserrate’<br />

by Columbus, Montserrat has been deemed<br />

‘The Emerald Isle’ because of its lush tropical<br />

vegetation and abundant wildlife. Plymouth<br />

was its capital city and bustling port where<br />

nearly all of its inhabitants settled; agriculture<br />

was the mainstay with limes, limejuice, baytree<br />

oils, sugar, arrowroot, cattle, produce and<br />

sea-island cotton - the main exports. As time<br />

passed, an airport was constructed. In 1979,<br />

former Beatles producer, Sir George Martin,<br />

opened <strong>Air</strong> Studios Montserrat at the historic<br />

Waterworks estate creating an international<br />

super-star tourism cemented by a son of the<br />

soil, the now late Alphonsus ‘Arrow’ Cassell -<br />

with the renowned soca hit - ‘Hot Hot Hot’.<br />

Montserrat’s Soufriere volcano became<br />

active in 1995. By 1997 Plymouth was<br />

destroyed by ash - its people pushed to the<br />

north. Today, Montserrat has risen from<br />

the ashes – its 4,000 remaining people<br />

courageous, resolute, determined and strong<br />

in religious faith.<br />

On arrival, I found myself tearing up and<br />

down hills from the John A. Osborne <strong>Air</strong>port<br />

with lawyer, photographer, radio personality<br />

and tour operator, Warren Cassell. First stop<br />

was for some local cuisine at Annie on the<br />

40


each between Little Bay, the new capital<br />

town and the seat of government and Brades.<br />

My appetite was satisfied - stewed-down liver,<br />

creole saltfish, boiled green banana, plantain,<br />

avocado pear, salad and the most delicious,<br />

fluffy, perfectly-made bakes.<br />

Next was the Cultural Centre best<br />

described in excerpts from a story written by<br />

historian Monserratian Sir Howard Fergus:<br />

‘… a prominent landmark in Little Bay …<br />

an earnest of official intention to plant a new<br />

town in the ultra-safe north of the island. Sir<br />

George Martin of international music fame<br />

built it in 2006 as a gift to Montserratians …<br />

now famous venue for local and international<br />

conferences in addition to being a multipurpose<br />

performing centre …’.<br />

I soon met Juliana Meade – an<br />

entrepreneur if ever there was one. An<br />

amazing cook; her homemade local<br />

traditional sweets, hot sauces, jellies and<br />

jams quite exceptional in taste and quality;<br />

Julianna is in the process of writing her new<br />

book ‘Roast Balange’ filled with delicious<br />

Montserratian recipes.<br />

Agriculture suffered dramatically after<br />

the volcanic eruption, with the flat lands<br />

once farmed in the south, abandoned for the<br />

steep north. Covered in mud we met farmer<br />

41


Gerard Byer, aka ‘Soffy’, growing all manner<br />

of vegetables and still making coal in an<br />

underground pit.<br />

I also visited Montserrat Hydroponics<br />

Ltd in Brades which produces delicious<br />

greens and vegetables. This venture hopes<br />

to alleviate the importation of food and the<br />

dependence on the ‘food-boats’ from other<br />

islands.<br />

One can escape into the ‘lush, green<br />

forested ‘Centre Hills’ renowned for its<br />

biological diversity’. Centre Hills make<br />

up a section of the range of mountains on<br />

Montserrat – the others are Silver Hills and<br />

Soufriere Hills. Thirty-four species of resident<br />

land birds and migrant songbirds inhabit the<br />

forests. Birdwatchers can spot Montserrat’s<br />

rare national bird, the Montserrat Oriole<br />

42


(Icterus oberi). A trip to the north had me thrilled to see the wild iguana basking in the<br />

midday sun, enjoying the photo ops it gave willingly.<br />

Thank God it was Friday for only then can one have Kranston ‘Kranny’ John’s famous<br />

‘Goat Water’ served up at K.P. Bar. Then on to Emerald Rose Restaurant for fresh guava<br />

juice, a plateful of pork stew, peas & rice with slices of yam, dasheen & sweet potato and<br />

slivers of boiled plantain. And finally to J’J’s Cuisine for a shot of aphrodisiacal Bush<br />

Rum filled with sea cockroaches and herbs - the vivacious Vireen Woolcock adding extra<br />

charm with her delicious local wines.<br />

The drinking of the water at Runaway Ghaut proclaims: ‘If you drink from this burn<br />

to Montserrat you will return’ ensuring that you come back to this magical isle. n


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