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continued from p. 79<br />
basic cream sauce<br />
M a k e s a b o u t 1 1/2 c u p s<br />
11/2<br />
13/4<br />
oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter<br />
3 Tbs. unbleached all-purpose<br />
flour<br />
1/2<br />
cups whole milk, heated<br />
tsp. kosher salt<br />
1/8 tsp. freshly ground black<br />
pepper<br />
Small pinch of freshly grated<br />
nutmeg<br />
In a 2-quart. saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low<br />
heat. Add the flour and cook, whisking constantly,<br />
for 2 to 3 minutes. Do not let the mixture<br />
brown. Slowly whisk in the hot milk and bring just to<br />
a simmer, whisking frequently. Reduce the heat to<br />
low and cook, whisking often, until the sauce has<br />
thickened to a creamy, gravy-like consistency and<br />
no longer tastes of raw flour, 6 to 8 minutes for a<br />
single batch, 10 to 12 minutes for a double batch.<br />
Make Ahead<br />
This sauce will keep<br />
in an airtight container<br />
in the refrigerator<br />
for about 5 days. You<br />
can freeze it for up to<br />
3 months.<br />
Remove from the heat and whisk in the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. If not using<br />
right away, transfer to a bowl and press a piece of plastic wrap directly on the<br />
surface of the sauce to keep a skin from forming. Plan to use the sauce within<br />
30 minutes, because it thickens if it’s left to sit for too long. If that should happen,<br />
add a little warm milk and whisk well to thin it.<br />
quick tomato sauce<br />
m a k e s a b o u t 4 1/2 c u p s<br />
3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />
1 medium carrot, finely<br />
chopped<br />
1 medium rib celery, finely<br />
chopped<br />
1/2<br />
1/4<br />
medium yellow onion, finely<br />
chopped<br />
cup chopped fresh flat-leaf<br />
parsley<br />
5 large fresh basil leaves,<br />
chopped<br />
1/2<br />
Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />
black pepper<br />
cup dry white wine<br />
1 28-oz. can plus one 14-oz. can<br />
plum tomatoes with juice,<br />
coarsely chopped<br />
In a 3- or 4-quart. saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the carrot,<br />
celery, onion, parsley, basil, a generous pinch of salt, and a couple grinds of<br />
pepper. Cook until the vegetables are pale gold, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the wine<br />
and cook until it evaporates, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes with their<br />
juices, stir well, and simmer gently to blend the flavors and reduce the sauce<br />
to about 41/2 cups, 15 to 20 minutes (adjust the heat as necessary to maintain<br />
a gentle simmer). Season to taste with salt and pepper. If you want a smoother<br />
texture, pass the sauce through a food mill or purée in a food processor.<br />
80 p A s ta
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