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Setting Fires With Electrical Timers

Setting Fires With Electrical Timers

Setting Fires With Electrical Timers

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Tips for Constructing<br />

<strong>Electrical</strong> <strong>Timers</strong><br />

Special care must be given to each electrical connection.<br />

Be sure each one conducts electricity well and will not break<br />

apart during transport. Soldering wires together makes a<br />

much better connection than merely twisting them together.<br />

To join two wires: strip insulation off the end of each wire,<br />

twist them together and add a coating of solder. Wrap<br />

electrical tape around the exposed wire and continue<br />

wrapping down onto the insulated part of the wire for about<br />

an inch (see Figures A and B). Make the tape tight against<br />

the wire by pinching it and stretching it as you wrap. The<br />

electrical tape prevents short circuits and protects the wires<br />

from being pulled apart. (Helpful Tip: To get a tight fit<br />

when wrapping tape around the thin wire in these recipes, we<br />

recommend first cutting each piece of tape down the middle<br />

to reduce its width by half.)<br />

Here’s some advice on wire, batteries, battery snaps,<br />

voltmeters, epoxy and shrink tubing:<br />

• Wire: The gauge of a wire is the measure of its diameter.<br />

Contrary to common sense, a lower number means it is a<br />

thicker wire. For example, 18-gauge wire is thicker than<br />

20-gauge wire. Don’t worry about using different gauge<br />

wire on the same circuit. Thick wire is sold in many<br />

places, thinner wire is harder to find. 18 and 20 gauge<br />

wire can sometimes be found on the shelves of hardware<br />

stores and auto part stores. For thinner wire, go to Radio<br />

Shack. Beneath the colorful plastic insulation, wire is<br />

either “solid-core” (a single wire) or “stranded” (multiple<br />

smaller wires). Stranded wire is easier to work with<br />

because it is more flexible and creates better soldered<br />

connections. The solder seeps in between the strands of<br />

wire. We strongly recommend using stranded wire.<br />

• Batteries: Use batteries that say “alkaline.” Do not use<br />

the misnamed “heavy duty” or “classic” batteries. Do not<br />

use lithium cells. Do not use rechargeable nicad (nickelcadmium)<br />

batteries. Only alkaline batteries release<br />

sufficient amperage (current flow) to power a testingbulb<br />

or an igniter. Weak batteries can cause false test<br />

results. Testing with a light bulb or a Light Bulb Igniter<br />

will drain batteries quickly. During testing, keep lots of<br />

new batteries on hand and discard batteries that have less<br />

than 8.8 volts. And, of course, use only brand new<br />

batteries at the target.<br />

• 9-Volt Battery Snaps: Clocks, toys, small radios and<br />

anything else that uses a 9-volt battery will have a<br />

battery-snap (sometimes called a battery cap or a battery<br />

connector). It snaps onto the two terminals on the top of<br />

the battery. Battery-snaps can be purchased at a hobby<br />

shop or an electronic parts store such as Radio Shack. On<br />

10<br />

Figure A: Connecting Two Wires Together<br />

Step one: Strip the ends of both wires<br />

Step two: Hold the wires side by side and twist the<br />

exposed ends around each other.<br />

Step three: Add solder<br />

Step four: Cut tape in half the long way to make<br />

wrapping easier.<br />

Step five: Wrap tape to completely cover the<br />

exposed ends. Continue wrapping tape down onto the<br />

insulated wire for an inch or so.

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