Production Data 83 - Nostalgic British Cars

Technical Tips On Wire Wheels 125
Slight sideways run-out (or ‘out of true’) with wire wheels is therefore not significant: a couple of hard
corners will soon re-arrange the wheel spokes anyway. Vertical ‘run out’ should not be permitted, ever.
By far the most common cause of wire wheel ’wobbles’ is an incorrect method employed in balancing.
A simple spirit level balancer is the thing to seek out. Under no circumstances should balancing be
attempted on the now common dynamic machine without the use of the special sprung cones shown in
the illustration, because, although the wheel locates correctly on its inner coned surface, these machines
‘try’ and locate onto the inside of the wire wheels outer flange - which is NOT a true machined surface.
This incorrect technique appears as terrific sideways run-out and the balancing ‘specialist’ always
blames the wheel. Now you know the truth.
It is always best to check the wire wheel by clamping it onto a front hub, using the correct knock-on nut
BEFORE fitting the tyre.
Spin the wheel on the hub & check sideways or vertical run-out as shown in the illustration, and observe
or measure the run-out. + or – 1 /16" is not a problem, even +/- 1 /8" is barely detectable on the road.
So You Think You’ve Got Wobbly Wire Wheels?
(By Pete Cox)
Back in the good old days when Pete Buckles and myself were just young lads, we were able to buy
virtually direct from Dunlop, so the wire wheels were inexpensive. These British made wheels were sold
mostly to the TR Register members at insanely low prices. 4.5" x 60 spoke wire wheels went out at
£4.10.0d!, with no VAT to pay and we still made a pound on each wheel!
The low prices enabled me to indulge in experiments: if they didn’t work (or fit), offending wheels would
always be ‘sold on’ and a couple of ‘bob’ profit could still be made.
So my TR2, an attractive beast wearing glistening Midnight Blue paint work and not so glistening (but
by then typical), rusty quarter panels, finalised it’s development with the unusual combination of 6"
Cobra wheels at the front and, 5.5" TR6 wheels at the rear. This was because the TR2 was always
enthusiastically driven and the growing pile of Lockheed half shafts finally stopped growing the day a
second hand TR4 rear axle was installed, its extra width requiring the above wheel combination to
balance its cornering habits.
Now, wire wheels are built to flex (or bend) and
this was brought shockingly home to me on one
occasion when Pete Buckles visited me in
Birmingham (remember Clapgate Lane?). We
were off to visit a supplier (who incidentally, still
stamps out trunnion blanks for Moss). Pete’s TR3
followed my TR2 down an interestingly twisty
road which I happened to know particularly well,
and, after exiting a seriously exciting corner I
looked in the mirror to check on the progress of
our illustrious leader, and was horrified to see his
car in a lurid slide (he maintained it was under
control) with its outside front wheel keeling over
at a crazy angle, almost 6° off vertical.
This memory has remained vivid ever since, and
is one explanation why Moss Europe (formerly
Cox & Buckles) do not sell second hand or
reconditioned wire wheels.
If it is assumed that both hub & rim of a
wire wheel are in good condition, it may
be worth having the wheel re-spoked
‘as necessary’ and then trued up by a
competent re-builder. The wheel will
probably need shot blasting and stove
enamelling which will bring the cost to
near to (or possibly over) the price of a
new wheel. Remember also that you
have got a used, worn wheel, not a nice
new one. Bear in mind then, that the
wheel is capable of being flexed by 4"
(i.e., the hub is fixed and the top of the
wheel is 4" further out than the bottom),
while it is rotating at speed on the road,
and it is then supposed to return to the
original shape.
So the conclusion is summarised as follows
Our new wire wheels are built and assembled to the highest standards
When your wheel/tyre fitter says they are no good, there is a very, very strong chance that he is not using
the equipment in a fashion which is appropriate for wire wheels. The above tips will allow you to check
the ‘truth’ of the wire wheel, whether the wheel is new or used.
It’s a sad truth wire wheels have a bad reputation that they don’t deserve, but the people who give them
a bad reputation, actually deserve it themselves. We have total confidence in the Dunlop product we sell.
Pete Cox
How To Balance Centre Lock Wire Wheels
We show here the advice given to tyre fitters, produced by Motor Wheel Service.
These notes are intended as a guide in
helping to solve problems that are commonly
encountered when balancing centre lock wire
wheels on a electronic balancer.
The diagrams show the centre spline of a
wire wheel attached to a balancer
Diagram A ...
is the correct method of locating the wheel.
Diagram B ...
shows the wrong method and one which
gives false readings, giving the appearance
of untrue or wheels that require large
amounts of weights to balance the wheel.
Points To Check
• The original high degree of balance may be
affected by wheel damage as well as by other
factors related to the tyres such as uneven
tread wear, cover or tube repairs.
• If vibration or high speed steering
problems develop, and this cause is not
disclosed by mechanical investigation, then
the complete tyre & wheel assembly should be checked for balance.
• It is IMPERATIVE that the hubs are located in the balancing machine in exactly the same manner as
located on the car, and the factory truing jigs. Alternatively, balance on the vehicle, this operation can
only be done on the front wheels.
‘Motor Wheel Services’ dedicate considerable time to ensure that your wheels are of the highest
quality & reliability. Following this guide, and the information contained in our centre-lock brochure will
provide the highest level of customer satisfaction.
NOW decide if you still want the wheel re-built!
We certainly would not want to guarantee one.