November 2010 - National Museum Volunteers

NEWS 

Bangkok No. 11 November 2010 

National Museum Volunteers

National Museum Volunteers 

The National Museum Volunteers 

(NMV), under the auspices 

of the Department of 

Fine Arts, is a recipient of the 

Thai National Heritage Preservation 

Award 1989, 2001 and 

2004. The group is also a 

Member of the Council of the 

World Federation of Friends 

of Museums. 

The National Museum Volunteers 

is an organization with 

Thai and international members 

whose purpose is to 

serve the National Museum 

Bangkok and the public 

through a variety of activities. 

NATIONAL MUSEUM BANGKOK 

Hours of Operation 

Wednesday to Sunday: 

9:00 am to 4:00 pm 

Monday and Tuesday: 

Closed, except on public holidays 

Thai New Year and 1 January: 

Closed 

Entrance fee: baht 200 

NMV Library 

The library is located at the rear of the 

Museum grounds behind the Palace building. 

Hours of opening: 

Wednesdays: 10:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. 

Thursdays: 10:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. 

Membership cards must be shown when 

borrowing books. 

E-mail: nmvlibrary@gmail.com 

The NMV Newsletter 

A monthly publication of the 

National Museum Volunteers, 

distributed free to members. 

All materials published remain 

the property of the NMV. No 

part of this publication may 

be reproduced without prior 

written permission. 

Cover photo: 

Street Market 

Scene in Doi 

Mae Salong 

(Photo by Louis Gabaude) 

Printed by TR Enterprise Bangkok 

. Newsletter National Museum Volunteers . November 2010 . 

Guided Tours 

English: Thai Art, History and Buddhism 

Wednesday & Thursday 

French: 

German: 

Japanese: 

Time: 

Meet at: 

Fee: 

Pre-Thai and Thai Art 


Thai Art and Culture 


Buddhaisawan Chapel 

Buddhism and Thai Art 


9:30 am 

Museum ticket office 

Free (Museum entrance fee must be paid.) 

For information call: 

Guide Chairperson (Guiding and Special tours): 

Berni Sabatini 083 302 5005 

Tour Leaders: 

English: Lynda O’Callaghan 02 285 6162 

French: Isabelle Depaty 02 261 1964 

Jean-Pierre Joly 02 271 1249 

German: Barbara Frank 080 088 3962 

Japanese: Kumi Ishii 02 662 2179 

Naomi Nomoto 02 664 3640 

NMV Website address: 

http://www.museumvolunteersbkk.net

IN THIS ISSUE 

CONTENTS 

2 Calendar & Notices 

3 Message from the President 

5 From the Library 

6 Study Group 

7 At Home 

9 Introductory Lecture Series 

11 Recent Happenings 

24 Feature 

33 Excursion 

35 Excursions Policy 

36 Membership Application 

This issue edited by: 

Devin Brougham 

. November 2010 . Newsletter National Museum Volunteers . 1

CALENDAR & NOTICES 

Nov 1 

Nov 4 

Nov 8 

Nov 9 

Nov 11 

Nov 12-14 

Nov 15 

Nov 18 

Nov 22 

Nov 25 

Nov 29 

Study Group Orientation – “Rites of Passage and Festivals of 

the Thai People” 

Introductory Lecture Series 

Study Group – “Rites of Passage and Festivals of 


At Home – “Thai Culture in Transition” 


Excursion – “Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle” 









UPCOMING STUDY GROUPS IN GERMAN AND FRENCH 

The National Museum of Bangkok has organised study groups for many years 

now, with the purpose of giving members a broader knowledge of the art and 

culture of Asia. 

These study groups are informal sessions where participants will share their 

own research on a particular topic. The variety and the range of study groups 

allow participants to sharpen their curiosity and learn more. 

As the English-language study groups have been very successful, we have 

been asked to set up similar ones for the German and French speaking 

communities. These study groups will start as soon as possible. 

If you are interested please contact: Martine MAUFFREY at mmauffrey@ 

hotmail.com 

2 . Newsletter National Museum Volunteers . November 2010 .

MESSAGE FROM THE PRESIDENT 

Dear Members, 

I’m writing today as one of the NMV ‘Footnotes’, following our symposium 

‘Footnotes in History’ on 14 th October. What Anette Pollner, our Monthly Lecture 

Chair, promised for this event came true: NMV members gathered at the 

Museum’s auditorium to consider together what the NMV has achieved and how 

amazing the enrichment for every member joining our multicultural group 

dedicated to studying Thailand with all its cultural facets. We appreciated what 

an important part of our social life the NMV represents in this wonderful 

country. At the same time, we confirmed how much and how positive being an 

active member has changed our lives. With the presence of NMV’s valued 

patron MR Chakrarot Chitrabongs and our former presidents, this event gained 

a touch of special class. The potluck lunch was delicious and we enjoyed the 

feeling of being at home with good friends. 

October was a very pleasant month in the life of the NMV. We started with an 

excursion to Petchburi and Nakhon Pathom on 6 th October led by Khun Chai. It 

was illuminating: on the subject of Thai sweets (khanom) we were able to 

watch their production and enjoy a variety of sweet delicacies offered at the 

morning market in Petchburi; then we visited the Summer Palace of King Rama 

IV and learned more about him. In the afternoon we headed to Nakhon Pathom 

to visit the Phra Pathom Chedi and tour the National Museum where we were 

again enchanted by artefacts of the Dvaravati period. As the closing highlight, 

we enjoyed ‘flying ice cream’ at the night market. Thank you, Khun Chai, for 

this unforgettable lesson in history and the present. Thank you, Khun Jaree, for 

supporting us and for joining this tour. 

Another excursion with short lectures followed: The German Guides group 

travelled to Petchburi to study King Chulalongkorn’s Rain Season Palace and 

murals at Wat Ko Kaeo Suttharam and to Sam Roi Yod National Park to visit 

the beautiful Phra Nakhom Cave with its Rama V sala – a very impressive twoday 

trip with good friends and fun. By the way, the group enjoyed khanom in 

Petchburi, the capital of Thai sweets. 

For November the NMV coordinators are offering a wide spectrum of interesting 

activities. A New Study Group starts on the 1 st of November; from the 4 th of 

November the Introductory Lecture Series will commence with interesting topics. 

Everyone is welcome: sign up for the whole series or dip in by attending only 

the lectures that interest you. ‘At Homes’ on the 9 th of November has chosen 

an exciting topic with much useful information. A weekend excursion starting on 

the 12 th of November promises unforgettable experiences in northern Thailand. 

Please don’t miss the chance to join our events. 


The NMV’s links with the diplomatic corps and other groups have been 

flourishing and we are very grateful for that. We were invited to participate in 

the Combined Women’s Lunch to introduce the NMV and our publications and 

the American Embassy invited us to be a part of its annual orientation event on 

20 th October. On 6 th November the Belgian Embassy opens its doors to 

welcome visitors in the Ambassador’s residence. More details about this and 

other events can be found on the web page for ‘Non-NMV cultural events’: 

http://www.museumvolunteersbkk.net/html/NonNMV.html 

This autumn brought changes to the personnel structure of both the Fine Arts 

Department and the National Museum Bangkok. The former Director General of 

FAD, Khun Grienggrai Sampatchalit, entered retirement at the end of September. 

A small group representing the NMV was able to visit Khun Grienggrai, as a long 

time friend of the NMV, to express our gratitude and best wishes for his 

retirement. The new Director General is Khun Somsuda Leyavanija. We visited 

Dr. Somsuda to welcome her and introduce our organisation and received very 

warm regards for our members. The former National Museum Director Khun 

Patchanee Chandrasakha left Bangkok to take on new responsibilities in Roiet. 

We visited Khun Patchanee to say good bye on behalf of NMV members and to 

wish her the best. Khun Patchanee kindly invited us to visit the museum in Roiet. 

As we await the new Director, we are staying in touch with the Senior Curator 

Khun Dendao, who as the NMB’s Deputy Director, is in charge during the interim. 

And more changes: Else Geraets, an expert in textiles and avid collector of 

Asian textiles, the Chair of Study Groups is leaving her position after years of 

active service on the Steering Committee. Else always supported us with her 

knowledge and friendship; she tirelessly guided tours and study groups, always 

with her charming smile and calm personality. Else, you are one of the noble 

NMV members, being active since a very long time and you never said you 

were too busy to join in the NMVs life. Thank you on behalf of our members. 

Else is handing over her responsibilities to Martine Mauffrey, a French friend 

with many ideas. Thank you, Martine, for joining us. 

Another good friend has left Thailand for Japan: Dominique Glasser, NMV’s 

dedicated librarian and French guide. We miss you, Dominique, and we are 

grateful for the time we had you at the museum; All the best and thank you for 

all your contributions – best regards and wishes from all of us! 

Please check out our website regularly to be updated with latest news. Don’t 

forget the page with Non-NMV events. 

I’ll see you with pleasure at the next NMV event. 

With my best wishes, 

Bo Mazur 


FROM THE LIBRARY 

Call for volunteers 

After the departure of Dominique Glasser, the Library team is now too limited. 

We need more volunteers to insure the best service to our members. Working 

in the Library requires specific skill, flexibility and most of all commitment. 

Sharing knowledge, helping readers, working in a strong spirit team is an 

exiting experience. For more information, do not hesitate to contact Françoise 

Vincent on nmvlibrary@gmail.com 

La bibliothèque a besoin de bénévoles 

Après le départ de Dominique Glasser, notre équipe est désormais très réduite. 

Nous avons besoin de bénévoles afin d’assurer le meilleur service à nos 

membres. S’investir à la bibliothèque requiert des aptitudes spécifiques, de la 

flexibilité et avant tout un engagement. Partager ses connaissances, aider les 

lecteurs, travailler dans un esprit d’équipe est une expérience unique. Pour tous 

renseignements n’hésitez pas à contacter Françoise Vincent par courriel à 

l’adresse nmvlibrary@gmail.com. 

Thank you, Dominique! 

Dominique returned to Japan. The Library team wants to express its gratitude 

for all she achieved. She was always available, communicative and willing to 

share her deep knowledge of the Asian culture. We wish her all the best in her 

future life in Osaka. 

Merci Dominique! 

Dominique nous a quittés pour rentrer au Japon. L’équipe de la bibliothèque 

tient à lui exprimer toute notre gratitude pour tout le travail accompli à la 

bibliothèque. Toujours disponible, communicative, elle était toujours prête à 

partager sa connaissance de la culture orientale. Nous lui souhaitons le 

meilleur dans sa future vie à Osaka. 


STUDY GROUP 

RITES OF PASSAGE AND FESTIVALS OF THE THAI PEOPLE 

Orientation 

Dates 

Time 

Place 

Leaders 

Sign up 

November 1st at 9:30 a.m. sharp 

Mondays: November 8th, 15th, 22nd, 29th 

9:30 a.m. – 12:00 noon 

TBA 

Else Geraets and Siew-Eng Koh 

mmauffrey@hotmail.com 

Rituals marking the changes of status 

in Thai life, like the buat or 

initiation ceremony, the wedding ceremony 

and eventually the ceremony 

of death are important moments in 

the life of the Thai people. These 

ceremonies are not only celebrated 

with the direct family members but 

the whole village will join in the rituals 

that are not only Buddhist in 

origin but often carry strong animist 

elements as well. 

The yearly cycle is marked by festivals 

dear to the Thai People like 

Songkran and Loy Krathong. There 

are religious festivals like the Maka 

Bucha, Visaka Bucha and the Tatoo 

Festival and agricultural festivals like 

the Ploughing Ceremony and the Phi 

Ta Khon Festival. 

Although Indian and Chinese in origin, 

other festivals are celebrated by the 

Thai wholeheartedly, like the Durga 

Puja and the Vegetarian Festival in 

Phuket. 

You might be able to join these rites 

of passage; you can visit each of 

these festivals when they are taking 

place and you will enjoy more when 

you understand what is happening 

and why. 

Looking forward to seeing you at this 

wonderful event! 


AT HOME 

At Home with Ajahn Bill 

Thai Culture in Transition 

50 years of Observations and Reflections 

Date: Tuesday, 9th November 2010 

Time: 

Place: 

Donation: 

Contact: 

Note: 

9:00 a.m. – 11:00 a.m. (Please note earlier time!) 

The Bandara Lounge, Bandara Suites, Silom 

(www.bandarahotelsresorts.com) 

75/1 SalaDaeng Soi 1 SILOM (nearest BTS: SalaDaeng 

Nearest MRT: Silom) 

200 Baht member / 400 Baht non-member 

NMVAtHomes@gmail.com 

Registrations for the event took place at the Annual Reception. 

There are only a few places left. A wait list will be made and 

members contacted should a cancellation become available. 

Professor William Klausner first travelled 

on a research scholarship to 

Thailand in the 1950’s and has been 

a long term commentator of Thai life, 

culture and society. He has worked 

as an advisor to foreign embassies 

and large corporations. He also has 

lectured in political science and international 

relations at prestigious universities 

in Bangkok and abroad. 

Ajahn Bill has witnessed tremendous 

pressures on traditional Thai ways of 

life by globalisation and industrialisation. 

He speaks of an agricultural 

society where the culture was deeply 

rooted in the way of life, avoidance 

of all disharmony or conflict, respect 

for seniors and monks was obligatory, 

and women followed the wishes 

and traditions of the village commu- 


nities which depended on each other for survival. He will explain how these 

mutual dependencies in rural villages no longer dominated as people migrated 

to the cities for education or employment opportunities. Gradually the social 

hierarchies of the past began to change with demands for a more western 

approach of individual rights, social equality and fairness. 

Ajahn Bill will illustrate his points by drawing on vast experience researching 

and observing Thai society from over 55 years of living in Thailand. His 

comments on current affairs and modern Thai society are clear, insightful and 

provocative. 

Ajahn Bill observes: “What is fascinating about Thai culture is not that it is 

constantly changing, but that it still somehow manages to retain its identity at 

all. This is remarkable!” 

Join us with Prof Bill Klausner for an interesting morning reflecting on modern 

Thai culture and way of life. 

The NMV thanks and acknowledges the Bandara Suites Saladaeng 

for its generous support of this function. 


INTRODUCTORY LECTURE SERIES 

65 th Introductory Lecture Series 

This Autumn, on November 4 th , November 11 th , November 18 th , and November 

25 th the National Museum Bangkok will offer its 65th Introductory Lecture Series 

on four consecutive Thursdays from 9:00 a.m. – 12:00 noon. All are welcome. 

The popular Introductory Lecture Series is well attended by English-speakers 

from all countries; both newcomers to Thailand who wish to learn about their 

host country and by dedicated NMV members who return year-after-year to 

freshen their knowledge of “all things Thai”. 

This year’s topics offer insights into: the historic background of the recent 

political unrest, how to appreciate Thai textiles, how to act in a temple, read a 

mural and recognize the key events in the life of the Buddha, popular Thai 

women artists, Thai adaptations in art and culture and what the first interactions 

between Thais and Europeans were like. 

The fee of 200 baht for members of the NMV and 400 baht for non-members 

includes both the 9:00 and the 11:00 a.m. lectures; however lectures can be 

attended individually for the same price. Tickets purchased in advance for the 

full series are discounted 100 baht. 

The upcoming eight lectures will be held on the grounds of the National 

Museum that was once home to the Deputy King and now houses the largest 

Buddhist Art collection in Southeast Asia. You may want to plan to tour the 

galleries and collections after a lunch in one of the museum’s cafes. 

Donation Non-member: 400 baht per day or 1500 baht for full series 

Member: 200 baht per day or 700 baht for full series 

Payment 

Seats can only be guaranteed for advance payment. Cash only 

payment can be arranged with:Jean Harvey -Introductory Lecture 

Chair jeancharvey@gmail.com. 


SCHEDULE 

Thursday November 4 th 

9:00 a.m. A Historical Perspective of Thailand’s ‘Urban/Rural Divide’ – 

Michael J. Montesano, PhD 

11:00 a.m. How to Appreciate Thai Textiles – Wipawee Tiyawes 


9:00 a.m. What’s a Wat? – Joyce Meer 

11:00 a.m. The Life of the Buddha as Seen in the Murals of the 

Buddhaisawan Chapel and Other Temples – Margot Weinmann 


9:00 a.m. Inventions in Thai Arts and Culture – M.R. Chakrarot Chitrabongs 

11:00 a.m. Thai Women Artists – Susan Morgan 


9:00 a.m. Siam and the West c.1600-1767 – Dhiravat na Pombejra, PhD 

11:00 a.m. 500 Years of Europeans in Thailand; Latest Research Lasting 

Impact – tba 


RECENT HAPPENINGS 

EXCURSION TO PAK CHONG TO VISIT 

PHRA AJAHN JAYASARO 

by Kathryn Ryan and Sonia Schreiber 

Sunday, September 5th began with a 

beautiful blue sky over Bangkok, as 

27 members of the NMV ensured 

they were on time for their bus departure 

from Emporium for a day trip 

to Pak Chong to visit Phra Ajahn 

Jayasaro. This excursion had been 

carefully organised by Aviva Biran 

and Storm Walker and what a wonderful 

job they did. 

As the bus left the bustle of Bangkok 

and began its journey out into 

the countryside, 

there were many 

remarks as to 

how enjoyable it 

was to see such 

wonderful vegetation, 

and take in 

a slower pace of 

life. After a two 

hour journey we 

had a short 

break, reboarded 

the bus and arrived 

at our luncheon destination in 

good time. The scenery and surrounding 

vineyards were just wonderful 

and with so much recent rainfall, 

everything looked lush and verdant. 

At the restaurant the food was delicious, 

with all eating requirements 

met and everyone feeling more than 

satisfied. The staff is to be congratulated 

for ensuring that it all ran 

smoothly, as the arrival of a large 

bus tour is every restaurant’s nightmare! 

And so we made our way to Pak 

Chong and the peace, calm and 

tranquility that envelopes this beautiful 

retreat destination. Before the 

Dhamma talk and meditation time 

with Phra Jayasaro, there was time 

to wander the property and take in 

the beautifully kept gardens and surrounding 

countryside. 

The bell was 

sounded and we 

made our way up 

to the 2 nd floor of 

a beautiful room 

filled with light, 

the gentle whirring 

of air-conditioners 

and the 

beauty of nature 

all around. Mingled 

with that, 

and seated in front was Phra Ajahn 

Jayasaro and Phra Pandit along with 

two other monks. 

The English monk Ajahn Jayasaro 

follows the Forest Tradition of Thai 

Theravada Buddhism, which focuses 

on the practice of meditation and 

strict adherence to monastic rules, 

rather than lengthy scholastic studies 

of the Pali Canon (the texts which 

form the doctrinal foundation of 


Theravada Buddhism). Ajahn was a 

close disciple of the famous Forest 

Master, Ajahn Chaa (1918-1992). 

Before moving to Pak Chong in 

2001, Ajahn Jayasaro was the Abbot 

of Wat Pah Nanachat (International 

Forest Monastery) in Ubon Ratchatani. 

He has since been living in his 

little hermitage at Pak Chong, where 

he practices and teaches according 

to the Thai Forest Tradition of Ajahn 

Chaa. He gives Dhamma talks in 

Thai twice a month interspersed with 

rare talks in English. In the forest 

tradition Dhamma talks are never 

prepared beforehand, but due to 

Ajahn Jayasaro’s 

extraordinary wisdom 

and ability 

to reach out to 

his listeners, the 

talks are a most 

enlightening experience. 

Phra Jayasaro 

began his Dhamma 

talk by saying 

that Theravada 

Buddhism insists 

on the humanity of the Buddha. 

Even if he is a special human being, 

he is still a human being. This insistence 

is important because it 

stresses the fact that enlightenment 

is accessible to all human beings. 

The challenge is to realize the full 

potential of our human birth. But 

what should be our goal. How will 

we know that we have reached that 

full potential? Which criteria should 

we use to evaluate what is best? 

Buddhism believes that all actions 

that bring us closer to the goal of 

enlightenment are considered good. 

A state of enlightenment is one 

where there is a complete lack of 

greed, hatred and delusion. It is a 

state of perfection, wisdom and compassion, 

and of freedom. 

Buddhism is based on a threefold 

education. 

A) education of conduct 

B) education of emotion 

C) education of wisdom 

Phra Jayaraso then went on to 

explain that 

even at the first 

stage (A), B and 

C will be present 

in the background, 

in a supporting 

role. During 

the first 

stage, the moral 

code is learned. 

What is unique 

in Buddhism is 

that there are no 

commandments; 

there are no rewards or punishment 

involved. Buddhists should commit to 

this moral code on a voluntary basis. 

If a person was only avoiding consequences 

or fearing the reactions of 

others, there would be no connection 

with the training of emotions and 

wisdom. 

In this training, the person will be 

seeing the value of the Buddhist 

precepts. He will be looking at the 

benefits and drawbacks of his action. 


And he will be 

doing it in a very 

systematic way in 

his daily life. At 

each action and 

activity, he will 

observe how it 

will make him feel 

internally. (Is my 

mind filled with 

brightness, guilt, 

anxiety…?) Externally, 

the Buddhist 

will ask himself 

if his actions 

help his community, 

family and society. 

He then explained how a community 

will thrive on trust and that seven 

checkpoints could be used for personal 

practice. 

1) Knowing the methods and conditions 

for things to happen. 

2) Knowing the goal, the consequences. 

3) Knowing yourself. 

4) Awareness of your strong weak 

points. Knowing the right amount, 

the optimum amount. 

5) Know the individual. 

6) The mind is like a wild animal 

that you have to tame. 

7) Understanding of communities 

and of how they work. 

We then broke for a short interval 

and returned for a meditation session 

where it was explained that two 

qualities should be prominent in 

meditation: alertness and relaxation. 

Finally the session finished with 

questions and answers from those 

gathered. Subjects broached included; 

punja, childrearing, shame 

and guilt, attainability of enlightenment, 

conditionings, dukha and the 

relationship between happiness and 

pain. 

As we emerged from the centre for 

a final group photo it was obvious 

that everyone had, in some way, 

learned from and enjoyed the whole 

experience. 

Although the return bus journey was 

lengthy, all 27 members returned to 

Bangkok feeling that the day’s activity 

was a special occasion, and emphasised 

the special opportunities 

that are available when living in 

Thailand. 

(The notes from Phra Jayasaro’s actual 

Dhamma talk have been abbreviated. 

If anyone would like to read 

the full version please contact either 

Kathryn or Sonia) 


Ausflug der German Guides 2010 

Nach Petchaburi und Kao Samroy Yot National Park 

Ganz nach dem Motto “Alle 

Jahre wieder” begaben sich 

die deutschsprachigen Guides 

des Nationalmuseum Bangkoks 

auch dieses Jahr wieder auf 

eine 2-tägige Studienreise 

um unser Gastland – und 

unsere Mit-Volunteers – besser 

kennenzulernen. 

Mit deutscher Pünktlichkeit 

starteten wir am 08. Oktober um 

8 Uhr mit einem grossen Bus, 

viel guter Laune und noch mehr Proviant in Richtung Petchaburi. 

Unser erstes Ziel war der Phra Ram Ratchaniwet Palast in Petchaburi. Diese 

Palastvilla wurde 1910 von König Chulalongkorn in Auftrag gegeben und vom 

deutschen Architekten Karl Döring geplant und gebaut. Blickfang des Gebäudes 

ist ein grün gekacheltes, schneckenartig gebautes Treppenhaus, sowie das 

Badezimmer des königlichen Gemaches, welches mit einem Jacuzzi als auch 

mit einer frühzeitlichen “Erlebnisdusche” aufwarten konnte. Der Securityguard 

drückte dann auch beide Augen zu, übersah geflissentlich die “no photo” 

Schilder und ließ sich von und mit uns Damen nur zu gerne fotografieren. 

Nach einem leckeren Mittagessen ging es weiter zum Wat Ko Kaew Suttharam, 

einer Klosteranlage am Ufer des Maenam Petchaburi. Im Ubosot, der die für 

die Ayutthaya Periode typische Schiffform aufweist, konnten wir herrliche 

Wandgemälde bestaunen. Dargestellt waren unter anderem die 7 Wochen nach 

Buddha’s Erleuchtung, ein Jesuit im Gewand eines buddhistischen Mönches, 

sowie eine Darstellung des Triphum. 

Nach einer ruhigen und erholsamen Nacht (die für ein paar von uns allerdings 

etwas zu kurz ausfiel) machten wir uns am nächsten Morgen auf in den Kao 

Samroy Yot Nationalpark. Nach ein paar Verständigungsschwierigkeiten am 

Eingang des Parks erreichten wir nach kurzer Fahrt den Ausgangspunkt unserer 

Wanderung zur Phraya Nakhon Höhle. Der knapp 2-stündige Aufstieg war für 

uns verwöhnte Stadtdamen (und -Herren) dann doch recht anstrengend. Da 

halfen die von unserer Präsidentin, Bo unermüdlich herumgereichten Thai 

Süssigkeiten auch nicht wirklich weiter. Schließlich hatten es aber alle bis zur 


Höhle geschafft und wir wurden mit einem herrlichen Blick auf die Sala und das 

sog. “Schlundloch” belohnt. Die Höhle wurde von 3 thailändischen Königen 

besucht: Rama V, Rama VI und Rama IX. Der wunderschöne Pavillion wurde 

Rama V bei seinem Besuch in der Höhle 1986 gewidmet. 

Irgendwann trieb uns der Hunger dann wieder an und wir machten uns auf den 

Rückweg, der uns weit weniger beschwerlich vorkam als der Aufstieg. Ziemlich 

geschafft trafen wir alle wieder am Strand ein, wo unsere “echt bayrische 

Brotzeit” mit Radi, Landjäger, Käse, Essiggurken und vielem mehr auf uns 

wartete. Ein kühles Radler dazu – 

schon ging’s uns wieder besser! 

Den Rückweg konnten wir dann 

glücklicherweise per Boot antreten. 

Müde und geschafft machten wir uns 

dann per Bus wieder auf den 

Rückweg nach Bangkok. 

Wir denken gerne an diese tollen 

Tage zurück und freuen uns alle 

schon auf den nächsten Ausflug der 

deutschen NMVs! 


CROSSING BORDERS IN SOUTHEAST ASIAN ARCHAEOLOGY 

REPORT OF THE 13 TH INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE 

OF THE EUROPEAN ASSOCIATION OF SOUTHEAST 

ASIAN ARCHAEOLOGISTS 

(EURASEAA 13) 

27 th September – 1 st October 2010, Freie Universität Berlin 

by John J. Toomey 

A world away from the noisy celebrations 

for the Berlin Marathon 

and the 20th Anniversary of German 

Reunification, in the sleepy, leafy, 

wooded Dahlem district of stately 

villas with steep pitched roofs and 

classic or baroque fronts, spreads 

the vast campus of Berlin’s Freie 

Universität. Its many faculties and 

institutes sprawling between the U- 

and S-bahns which serve the southwest, 

this huge estate of higher 

learning is home to the Max Planck 

Institute, the Japan-German Center, 

The Institute of Near Eastern Archaeology, 

The German Archaeological 

Institute, the world-famed Dahlem 

State Ethnographic Museum and 

Dahlem State Museums of Asian, 

African, and Middle and North American 

Indian Arts, and various other 

museums and centers of learning. 

Young students and not-so young 

faculty (many looking the role of 

Albert Einstein) peddled by on bicycle 

as I took my daily 20-minute 

early morning walks through the cold 

rain, over bumpy cobblestone paths 

under the lofty, majestic trees which 

were trying to turn autumnal golds 

and reds, past gardens of chrysanthemums 

and late rose trellises, both 

grand and homey, neat or rambling, 

heading for the Henry Ford Lecture 

Halls to take part in the week-long 

sessions of the 13th International 

Conference of the European Association 

of SEA Archaeologists, where 

I would learn from the best in the 

field and also present my research 

on the possible relationship between 

Thai Lue textiles and the Dvaravati 

Parrot Sema stone in the Ubon 

Ratchathani National Museum, with 

possible roots in Sassanian (ancient 

Iranian) and/or Western Han dynasty 

motifs, of birds confronted at a tree 

of life or vase, and about the phallicprotective 

role of Dvaravati sema 

stones and megaliths in general. 

Parrot Sema Stone from Wat Parelai, 

Ubon Ratchathani 


Hongsa confronted at vase sipping elixir 

of life, Thai Lue textile 

The theme of this year’s bi-annual 

conference was “Crossing Borders in 

Southeast Asian Archaeology”, and I 

felt that my journey of “crossing borders” 

truly began when I crossed 

into the gigantic lobby and saw the 

sea of faces of famous SEA archaeologists 

from around the globe at the 

registration morning. After shaking 

off our umbrellas and shaking hands 

of friends and acquaintances, we all 

spotted and mixed with the crème de 

la crème of the world of SEA archaeology. 

Manning the registration 

table were the Chair of the conference, 

tall and beaming German Prof. 

Dr. Dominik Bonatz and his charming, 

petite and radiantly ever-cheerful 

wife Dr. Mai Loin Tjoa-Bonatz, both 

of whom conducted ground-breaking 

work on the 3400-year-old pottery 

traditions of the highlands of Jambi, 

Sumatra. One’s eyes were also 

naturally drawn to England’s John 

Guy of the NY Metropolitan Museum 

(formerly from London’s V&A) who 

has written on almost everything in 

the fields of art and archaeology, 

and to New Zealand’s Charles F.W. 

Higham (aka “Mr. Southeast Asian 

Archaeology”), who in a few days 

would deliver a 20-minute presentation 

that would completely realign the 

dating of Ban Chiang. I spotted 

Louis Allison Cort, being familiar with 

her vast work on Japanese tea ceramics, 

chatting with Leedom Lefferts 

whose work on SEA textiles is well 

known to many NMV members, both 

curators at the Sackler-Freer of 

the Smithsonian Institute, who would 

jointly give a talk on the women 

potters of SouthYunnan and Northern 

Thailand and their paddle and anvil 

methods. Faces more familiar to the 

NMV were Thammasat University’s 

Nicolas Revire who would trace the 

spread of the iconography of the 

buddhas seated in “European fashion” 

and SOAS’s Stephen Murphy 

and Thailand’s Pimchanok Pongkasetkan 

who together would discuss 

the transition from late prehistoric to 

Buddhist funerary practices at Dong 

Mae Nang Muang as they had 

recently at one of he NMV’s monthly 

lectures, and, of course, Glasgow’s 

Louis Allison Cort (R) joins other 

archaeologists in the guided tour of the 

Egyptian Correction at the Neues 

Museum 


Mr. And Mrs. Ralph Isaacs. Ralph 

opened to us this time, not the 

world of Burmese lacquer, but that 

of Burmese textiles in the sazigyo, 

tablet-woven sutra binding tapes, 

explaining the meaning of their 

calligraphic texts of merit-making and 

their punctuation with parrots and 

other symbols. 

Mr. and Mrs. Ralph Isaacs hear 

Dr. Ritter guide at the Pergammon Altar 

There were many other presentations 

about textiles, in addition to the 

usual ones concentrating on stones, 

metal, ceramic, fossil remains and 

arcane inscriptions that we usually 

associate with the digging and 

sweaty part of archaeology. Besides 

Ralph’s and mine, Australian archaeologist 

Judith Cameron showed hard 

evidence of cloth production from 

proto-historic sites in Vietnam, Yunnan, 

and Guangxi, and Lesley Pullen 

deciphered the types of cloth depicted 

on ancient Indonesian carved 

stone statuary. In addition there was 

a presentation on Burmese national 

dress. There also a whole strand of 

presentations on glass, including a 

very notable one by Germany’s 

Brigitt Borell on T’ang dynasty coreformed 

trade glass and Indian blown 

trade glass; and I made it a point to 

thank her for settling once and far 

all the date-frame for the Pongduk 

Byzantine lamp in the Bangkok National 

Museum (currently still mislabeled 

and misdated as Roman), 

which she had deftly accomplished 

in her article in the 2008 Journal of 

the Siam Society. There were also 

dazzling presentations of sparkling 

treasure caches, including the most 

surprising and intriguing presentation 

by the Philippines’ Patrick Reynos on 

pre-Hispanic gold artifacts from 

Champa and Java, showing the glories 

of the Filipino kingdoms of 

Butuan and Sulu. And there were 

so many presentations about recent 

research into Tantric Buddhist arts 

from the Bayon to Phimai, that I 

wished I could have taken our whole 

Vajrayana study group, which was 

currently meeting, with me to Berlin, 

so that they could immerse themselves 

in this heady atmosphere. 

The great-grandfather of the confer- 

Conference Members in Greek Courtyard 

at the Neues Museum with Torso of 

Moses 


ence, England’s Ian Glover, a face 

much familiar in Bangkok, moderated 

some of the panels, but did not 

L to R Charles F.W. Higham, Ian Glover 

and Bérénice Bellina-Pryce at book 

launch to celebrate Glover’s 50 years in 

the field 

present this year. Instead, this year 

he was fêted with a festschrift publication 

50 Years of Archaeology in 

Southeast Asia: Essays in Honour of 

Ian Glover (River Books), celebrating 

his lifetime of work in the field, 

which was launched the first evening 

of the conference. 

I felt much reinforcement for the evidence 

of a Sassanian textile connection 

in my own presentation, after I 

heard the young German Dr. Nils 

Ritter’s presentation in which he 

traced Sassanian motifs to SEA in 

his “From Euphrates to Mekong- 

Maritime Contacts Between pre-Islamic 

Persia and Southeast Asia”; 

and it was my pleasure during the 

discussion to help him identify the 

Dvaravati terra cotta trader figures to 

Thailand (in the Bangkok National 

Museum) as Sogdians by their boots 

and caps, which Pierre Baptiste of 

the Musée Guimet backed me up 

on. I had already shown material 

evidence of the presence of 

Sassanian/Sogdian traders in the 

south of Thailand in the Dvaravati 

period during my presentation. On 

the weekend after the conference, 

Dr. Ritter would guide us through the 

spectacular Pergammon Museum on 

Berlin’s Museums Insel, including its 

famed collection of ancient Persian 

arts, as well as the fabulous Hellenistic 

Pergammon Altar, where I also 

found an important floor mosaic of a 

parrot, reinforcing my contention that 

the parrot motif of the sema stone 

pre-dates even the Sassanians and 

hearkens back to Graeco-Roman 

motifs. 

Young German Archaelogist Dr. Nils 

Ritter guiding at the Ishtar Gate 

(Photo by Charlotte Pham, Vietnam EFEO) 


I arrived in Berlin one week ahead 

of the conference to visit as many 

museums as possible, using the 19- 

euro, 3-day card, including the 

dream of every museum buff, the 

Museums Insel. I had visited Potsdam 

and the elegant San Soucci 

when I lived in Germany over a decade 

ago, so, skipping those, I 

headed first for the Charlottenburg 

Palace, the first treasure trove of the 

arts for this trip to Berlin, housing 

collections of the then-fashionable 

chinoiserie, such as blanc-de-chine 

Dehua Gwanyings and blue and 

white Qing porcelains, and lacquered 

cabinets and harpsichords. Then to 

the Brohän’s collections of jugendstil 

(art nouveau) glass, ceramics 

and painting. Next, on the museum 

island itself, beginning with the Bode, 

one can start with Byzantine sculpture, 

ivories, and mosaics, and the 

sumptuous medieval German stone 

works and altar pieces and sensuous 

wood carvings of Tilman 

Riemenschneider. For the next two 

years the Bode is also featuring the 

treasures from the Cathedral of 

Hildesheim, some from as far back 

as the 11th century episcopate of 

Tilman Riemenschneider’s musicians, 

15-16th C, Bode Museum 

Portrait busts of Akhenaten and Nefertiti, 

plaster, 1340 BCE 

Bishop Bernwards, one of my personal 

heroes and renaissance man 

before the Renaissance. Under his 

eye, bronze casting reached a height 

of refinement not seen since the fall 

of Rome. These dazzling treasures 

highlight the epitome of medieval 

ivory and enamel-on-gold and bejeweled 

evangeliar covers, crosses, 

chalices, monstrances, reliquaries, 

statuary, pyxes, and portable altars, 

all much influenced by Byzantine 

and Islamic arts. 

You can then proceed to the 

Pergammon Museum as I described 

earlier, or go on to the Neues Museum 

to browse ancient papyri, 

whose pages move electronically at 

the push of a button, and the busts 

and mummies of pharaohs, and 

come face-to-face with the world’s 

most beautiful woman, Nefertiti herself, 

with all her lovely wrinkles and 

stress marks showing her strength. 

Though made only of stone and gypsum, 

she is also the most expensive 


lady in the world, insured for 5.2 

million euros, whereas that other 

lovely lady Mona Lisa is worth a 

mere 3.2 million. By comparison, 

King Tut’s inner mask is worth 4 

million because of its material value 

– there is that much gold in it – and 

not for any aesthetic reasons. Master 

works by the old German and 

other European painters are on view 

at the Alte Nationalgalerie; and at 

the Altes Museum, Etruscan works 

are presently on view as the 

Graeco-Roman pieces are being 

gradually being moved out to their 

new home in the Pergammon. 

The three-day ticket is also good at 

the museums of the Kulturforum 

near the Tiergarten Park, including 

the Neue Nationalgaleire which 

hangs mostly German expressionism 

and very “now” shows. I spent a 

whole day soaking up the collections 

of European Medieval, Renaissance, 

Baroque, and Neo-Classical paintings 

at the Kulturforum’s Gemäldegalerie, 

and another whole day for the glass, 

pottery, metal, wood, and other world 

crafts of the Kunstgewerbemuseum 

and the musical instruments from 

ancient to modern in the Musical 

Instruments Museum, including many 

a beautifully lacquered chinoiserie 

harpsichord and huge pipe organs. 

But for enthusiasts of the arts of the 

orient, there is nothing like the Asian 

Arts collections of the Dahlem (included 

in the 3-day ticket), a 20- 

minute walk from the conference 

venue, where I spent most of my 

lunch breaks – and stayed overtime. 

Standing Bodhisattva, Gandhara, 

2nd-3rd CE, schist, Dahlem Museum 

The Dahlem’s SEA collection is small, 

but diverse and of high quality, with 

about 20 rare pieces of Ban Chiang 

pottery and some small bronzes from 

the same site and Dongsong. They 

also hold a fair representation of Thai 

Buddhist sculpture periods, Thai illus- 


Swimmers in the River, mural in Cave of 

the Seafarers, Qizil, 6-7 C, Dahlem 


trated manuscripts, a lovely 14th C 

Hari-punjaya terrra cotta of a prince, a 

very elegant 12th-13th C Javanese 

khakkhara (monk’s jingling staff finial), 

Tibetan human and crystal drinking 

skulls, a combined Vishnu-Lakshmi, 

a dynamic Hevajra and some other 

tantric sculptures. You can enter the 

actual Buddhist Cave of the Ring- 

Bearing Doves, which has been transported 

and reconstructed in its entirety 

from Qizil in Central Asia by the 

Royal Prussian Expedition to Central 

Asia, 1913-14. It is so named due to 

the many doves holding rings in their 

beaks that fill the edges of the 

mandorla haloes of the Buddhas painted 

to both sides of the entrance on 

the inner walls. On view are also 

some textiles and manuscripts showing 

Chinese Manichaean Christian donors 

and more huge murals showing 

a 7-8th C Central Asian Nestorian 

Christian Palm Sunday procession, 

scenes from the life of the Buddha 

and jatakas and a large superb Maitreya 

lunette mural. 

Shang bronze, 11th BCE, Dahlem 


Gold and mother-of-pearl inlay lacquer 

tea caddy, Tokugawa or Meiji period, 

19th C, Dahlem Museum 


The Dahlem used to be called the 

Museum für Indische Kunst, and 

justly so, because of the breadth of 

its Indian collection. There is also a 

superb collection of Chinese classical 

bronzes representing every period 

and major form, so resplendent 

that I spent two hours there photographing 

just that small area. There 

are also very fine Korean and Chinese 

celadons and Korean, Japanese, 

and Chinese paintings, including 

a recumbent Bodhidharma 

clothed in red and brilliant Japanese 

folding screens of the four seasons. 

The showpiece of North Asian culture 

is, however, the complete and 

authentic Japanese tea room donated 

by the Ura Senke School (the 

style that some NMV members, including 

myself, practice), where lessons 

are regularly conducted and 

teas given for the public. Its foregallery 

exhibits a fine collection of 

old tea ceramics both Korean and 

Japanese, and a marvelous motherof-pearl 

lacquer inlay tea caddy. 

The next International Conference of 

the European Association of Southeast 

Asian Archaeologists is scheduled 

for 2012 at University College, 

Dublin, Ireland. I learned so much 

from this conference that deepened 

my knowledge of Thai and SEA arts, 

cultures, and archaeology, that I 

encourage NMV members to attend if 

you can, because it would be 

tremendously worthwhile to you. Hope 

to see you there in Dublin in 2012! 

Indonesian gamelan and vocal ensemble 

On our first evening of the conference, 

the German Archaeology Institute 

invited us for never-ending wine 

and copious hors d’oeuvres within 

their hallowed sanctum near the 

Freie Universität and midweek we 

were hosted by Humboldt University 

at their equally revered Cum Laude 

rooms after tours of the Dahlem 

SEA collection or the Museums 

Insel’s Egyptian collection. Closing 

ceremonies were graced by an Indonesian 

gamelan and vocal ensemble 

and Balinese dance at the Dahlem. 

Balinese dancer wearing songket skirt 


FEATURE 

The following article is from a presentation prepared by former NMV Member 

Heather Chappell for the ‘Inside Thai Society’ Study Group which met in 2009. 

This is the second of three parts. 

Nation, History and Art: Bangkok’s Public Monuments 

by Heather Chappell 

The power of monuments lies in their ability to remind. A monument refers to 

something that is set up to commemorate a person or an event. It is the 

memory that keeps the static object alive. They are often built to affirm political 

authority or assert national identity. Being part of the everyday scenery monuments 

can be powerful propaganda 

From old Siam to new Thailand, public monuments have been living witness of 

artistic and political movements in the kingdom 

Ka F. Wong, Pages 10 & 1, 2006 

King Mongkut (Reign 1851-1868) 

Part Two: Images of Kings 

The Fourth Reign received the first western-style bronze busts and sculptures 

from Queen Victoria of England as gifts in 1859. A few years later a gilded 

metal statuette of King Mongkut was sent by the French government. It was 

modeled from a photo and depicted a realistic, quite muscular, King Mongkut in 

a combined attire of tartan cap, jacket, Thai loincloth pants and slippers and 

was also depicted with a decoration sash of the legion d’ honneur. 

However it seems the king didn’t care for it and he ordered a local artisan. 

Luang Theprojana to make another life sized statue of him. This was the first 

ever commission of a royal statue of a living monarch in Siam. 

The statue demonstrates: 

. 

A combination of western and Siamese apparels 

Scholastic as well as regal, the figure holds a ‘Narai sword’ in one hand 

and a book in the other 

. Blends western, realism, proportion and anatomy with traditional Thai 

idealism, simplicity and abstraction 


This statue of King Mongkut is now in Wat Bowonivet, the royal temple where the King 

founded the Thammayut sect of Thai Buddhism and where he was chief abbot during a 

portion of his twenty-seven years in the monkhood 

What is really interesting about this statue is that it contested the superstition 

that image-making of a living person, including photograph, portrait and sculpture, 

was harmful to the individual. The royal support of realistic art signified a 

new beginning of Thai politics. From this time on, the living elite became more 

willing to utilize their image for personal and political purposes. 

The superstitious belief that portraiture or photo-taking would capture the soul 

of the person has positively impacted the status of monumental art. Many Thai 

people are convinced that the spirits of the revered personality or at least some 

part of his or her essence inhabit the sculpture or picture. Consequently artwork 

sometimes becomes a spiritual representation of that person and often becomes 

a place of worship 


The Rise of the Absolute Monarchy: King Chulalongkorn and the 

Equestrian Statue (Reign 1868-1910) 

They gather in front of the European style monument with altars of varied 

offerings, paying their respects and making requests to the referred monarch. 

The worship involves no specifically set time, collective ritual, nor leader, but from 

about 6 pm, people begin gathering around the statue, offering flower garlands, 

candles and incense, brandy and good whiskey 

Assisted by his brothers, King Chulalongkorn accomplished a phenomenal 

reform in the last two decades of his reign. Absolute Monarchy in the western 

sense was born. Skillfully and slowly the king consolidated the power that had 

long lain in the hands of the influential nobility. 

King Chulalongkorn viewed royal portraiture as ‘useful public relations’. All his 

official portraits were carefully selected by the monarch himself. During his trip 

to Europe in 1897 he saw amongst many other works of art, Gian Lorenzo 

Bernini’s sculpture of King Louis XIV on horseback in the gardens of Versailles. 

This inspired Bangkok’s Equestrian Statue. 

While the King was in Paris on his second tour in 1907 he posed for the 

French sculptor George Ernest Saulo who completed the statue a year later in 

time for the 40th Anniversary Celebration of the King’s reign, at the time the 


longest reign of a Chakri monarch. The opening event, the unveiling of the 

statue on November 11th 1908 ‘was as momentous as the monument itself’. 

The celebration drew thousands of people. The statue may look nothing out of 

the norm today, but it was very new to the masses in Siam a century ago. In 

Siam as with other Indic cultures the animal most associated with royalty and 

power was not a horse but the elephant. On ceremonial occasions the King 

was by custom borne by officers on a palanquin. He did not ride a horse. 

The larger than life bronze statue was realistic, emphasizing Western aesthetics 

and anatomy instead of traditional idealization and mysticism. The King was 

shown as a cavalier, in European- style military uniform with a tasseled hat, 

high-top boots and a long sword on his left side. The muscular and majestic 

royal horse seems to bear the King effortlessly 

The money to build the statue was raised by public donation. Over 1,000,000 

baht was raised 

This statue has continued to touch the people dearly throughout the years since 

the King’s death in 1910. It is now widely worshipped as a holy idol, especially 

so by the cult of King Rama V (Sadej Poh Ror Ha) 

Thai scholars speak of the worship of King Chulalongkorn developing into a cult 

during the heyday of the economic boom in the 1990s. Many upper class merchants 

and self-employed businessmen adopted him as a patron saint. The 

devotees believe that faith in King Chulalongkorn can bring miracles and success. 

Some even think King Chulalongkorn’s spirit descends from heaven and 

returns to earth through this statue on Tuesdays and Thursdays. 

King Rama I, commissioned by King Prajadhipok (Rama VII) 

Reign 1925-1935 

From the Sixth Reign the monarchy’s immense popularity went into decline. 

King Rama VI lacked the charisma of his father. He had an eccentric 

personality and spent hugely; royal expenditure averaged ten percent of the 

state revenue in his reign. During the Sixth Reign there were two aborted 

military coups. 

When King Prajadhipok succeeded to the throne he made some half hearted 

plans for introducing a constitution and a house of representatives. Then the 

Great Depression hit Thailand. In an effort to rejuvenate the reputation of the 

Monarchical government the gigantic Monument of King Rama I was commissioned 

to commemorate the 150 anniversary of Bangkok in 1932. At the time 

there were rumours that the government would be overthrown at anytime. Also 

the monarchy was haunted by the old prophesy that Chakri rule would only last 


With his back towards Thonburi, the capital of King Taksin, the image of King Rama I 

(1736-1809) looks over his new capital city 

150 years. It was hoped that the project would revive the glory and popularity 

of the absolute monarchy. 

The bronze statue was designed by Prince Naris Runnuwattiwong and molded 

by the Italian sculptor, Corrado Feroci (Silpa Bhirasri) 

Prince Naris was accomplished in politics, military, art and literature. He was 

highly regarded as ‘the great teacher’ and he made a huge impact on the 

history of Thai art. He was the chief designer and supervisor of many important 

art projects. 

Corrado Feroci was thirty-one when he left Florence in 1923 for Bangkok. He 

had already established himself as a popular sculptor of war memorials and 

heroic statues. In Bangkok he worked as the official artist for King Rama VI 

and gained the recognition and friendship of Prince Naris. He continued to 

serve during the Seventh Reign and under the various military governments in 

the constitutional era. 


The bronze statue of King Rama I was Corrado Feroci’s first major commission. 

The image was cast in Italy and then installed at the foot of the newly built 

Memorial Bridge. It was unveiled on 6 April 1932 

The King looks splendid sitting on a beautiful highly decorated throne. He has 

all the imagery of a deva-raja. Across his lap is a ceremonial sword. He is 

dressed in the ancient attire of royal helmet, embroidered gown and pointed 

slippers. The statue is huge, 4.75 metres in height and is unmovable. 

Despite the success of the monument, the absolute rule of the Chakri dynasty 

ended bloodlessly, eleven weeks after the unveiling of the monument. 

The Monument of King Vajiravuth (Rama VI) commissioned by the government 

of Field Marshal Phibun Songkhram (December 1938-July 1944) 

Although Rama VI is better known for his literacy works, the portrayal is of a military 

man. This was in line with the Phibun government’s interpretation and preference. 

However unlike most other nationalist monuments the statue is extremely realistic. 

The sculptor did not idealize the King’s physique with extravagant sensation or over 

powering action. The image looks modern and real 


Why would the fiercely nationalistic government of Field Marshall Phibun 

Songkham commission a statue of the absolute monarch King Rama VI? 

King Rama VI is remembered not only for his eccentric personality and 

extravagance but also for his promotion of Thai nationalism, for strengthening 

the military, for introducing surnames and the tricolor national flag. During his 

reign primary school was made compulsory and Chulalongkorn University, the 

first in the kingdom, was founded using money left over from the Equestrian 

Statue. 

The King was an accomplished author and he used literature and drama to 

foster nationalism by glorifying Thai legends and historical figures in plays. 

Under a pseudonym he also wrote essays in praise of the virtues of the nation. 

In his most penetrating piece ‘Siamese Art’ he argued that the art of his country 

was like ‘a poor invalid’ because young Siam had become obsessed with a 

desire ‘to ape European manners and European ways in outward things to be 

accounted civilized’ In art and literature the King believed that there was a need 

to return to traditional styles. In 1912 he formed The Fine Arts Department with 

the aim to preserve and develop Thai art and craftsmanship. 

The Phibun government recognized King Rama VI as the author and pioneer of 

Thai Nationalism. In 1940 to pay tribute they decided to build a statue of the 

King. The location chosen was in front of Lumpini Park. Rama VI donated the 

22,000 square metres of land at Sala Daeng in 1919 for this beautiful public 

park. 

In 1941 Corrado Feroci with assistance from four Thai artists commenced the 

project of designing and molding the three times life-size statue. The statue 

was inaugurated on 27 Mar 1942. The King is depicted in full ceremonial 

uniform with a sword, on a high pedestal flanked by fountains. An open tiled 

area where public ceremonies are held surrounds the monument. 

The Monument of King Taksin commissioned by the post war government 

of Field Marshal Phibun Songkhram (April 1948 – September 1957) 

Just three years after the end of the Second World War Thailand returned to 

military leadership. In April 1948 at the invitation of leading generals Phibun, 

who had recently been cleared of war crimes, again became Prime Minister. A 

uniform nationalism reemerged as a state sponsored ideology. 

During this final period of power Phibun attempted to change his public image; 

he reinvented himself as a more compassionate figure and developed historical 

claims for his authority 


Monument of King Taksin, (1953) by Corrado Feroci with Sanan Silakorn, Sitthidet 

Sanghiran and Pakorn Lekson, Wongwianyai Circle, Thonburi. King Taksin is dressed in 

traditional royal attire, riding on horseback with his head up slightly and his right hand 

holding a sword. Both the King and his horse display muscularity and heroism. They face 

towards Bangkok. The height of the statue from the foot of the horse to the top of the 

hat is nine metres; the length is nine metres from the tail to the mouth of the horse 

King Taksin the Great was one of the most famous warrior figures in Thai 

history. Phibun viewed King Taksin as a nation builder. He saw similarities in 

their lives. Both leaders were from humble origins and both were military men. 

King Taksin had freed Thais from Burmese invaders. In the 1940s Phibun 

promised Thais independence from aggressive colonial neigbours and later in 

the 1950s led the rhetoric against growing Communist insurgencies in 

neighboring Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos 

The design for the Monument of King Taksin was first submitted to the Phibun 

government in 1937. The proposal signaled a change in official sentiment 

concerning King Taksin who had been disparaged in early Bangkok history. In 

the same year Luang Wichitwathakan, the chief architect of Phibun’s nationalism, 

produced a play, ‘The King of Thonburi’ which emphasized the king’s 

leadership and chivalry. 


In 1937 The Fine Arts Department displayed seven models of the proposed 

monument at a fair organized to celebrate the 5th anniversary of the Thai 

constitution. Visitors to the fair were able to select the model of their choice and 

were also invited to donate money. The winning model had a total of 3,932 votes. 

In 1950 after a delay in the project due to World War II, Corrado Feroci and 

his assistants began work on the one and a half times life sized equestrian 

figure. The statue, at a cost of more than five million baht was completed in 

1953. On April 17, 1954 His Majesty King Bhumibol officially inaugurated the 

monument on the occasion of King Taksin’s birthday anniversary 

Major source: 

Bibliography 

Wong Ka F (2006): Vision of a Nation: Public Monuments in Twentieth 

Century Thailand, White Lotus Press, Bangkok 

Other Sources: 

Aasen Clarence (1998) Architecture of Siam: A Cultural Interpretation, 

Oxford University Press, Kula Lumpier 

Chadchaidee Thanapol (1994) Essays on Thailand, (Fourteenth Edition) D K 

Today Co, Ltd, Bangkok 

Terwiel B. J, (2005) Thailand’s Political History: From the Fall of Ayutthaya 

to Recent Times. River Books, Bangkok 

http://webhost.m-culture.go.th/en/index.php/articles/the-important-days-inthailand/50-king-taksin-day.html 

Photos Sources: 

Statue of King Mongkut (1868) by Luang Theprojana, photo from Wong Ka F 

(2006): Vision of a Nation: Public Monuments in Twentieth Century Thailand, 

Page 15 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zhushman/3390979723/ Photo of Statue of King Rama I 

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Monument_of_Rama_VI_at_ 

Lumphini_Park_(1).jpg Photo of statue of King Rama VI 

-http://www.thailandsworld.com/index.cfm?p=468 Photo of statue of King Taksin 


EXCURSION 

NMV WEEKEND EXCURSION 

Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle: 

Origins of Thai Culture and Glimpses of Neighbours 

Dates: 

Leader: 

Reservations: 

Donation: 

From early morning Friday, 12th November to late Sunday, 

14th November 

2010 (three days, two nights) 

Dr. Louis Gabaude, former Director of the Ecole Française 

d’Extreme Orient (EFEO) in Chiang Mai 

Contact Viorica Brougham nmvexcursions@gmail.com 

Please advise your mobile phone number when booking. 

Land cost only Members – 8,500 Baht (share twin) 

Non-members – 9,500 Baht (share twin) 

Single supplement – 1300 Baht 

Airfare – not included; see details below. 

Full payment is due at the time of the booking. 

This is an unique opportunity to travel with Northern Thailand cultural 

expert, Dr. Louis Gabaude, to the northernmost tip of Thailand, to 

Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle – Chiang Saen, Mae Sai, Doi Mae 

Salong. Chiang Saen, once a powerful fortified city, is one of Thailand’s 

oldest towns. Renowned for its splendid scenery, much of 

northern history remains intact in the Golden Triangle, where the 

borders of Thailand, Laos and Myanmar meet. We will view some of 

the oldest and finest preserved or renovated temples and stupas that 

reflect the architectural history of this area and learn about northern 

Buddhist practice. 

Please note: The excursion donation is on a land only basis. The actual 

excursion commences on 12 November upon our landing in Chiang Rai at 8:20 

am and concludes on 14 November in Chiang Rai at 9:00 pm prior to our flight 

departure to Bangkok. 

The land cost: includes air-conditioned minibuses throughout, all meals and 

refreshments, entrance fees and donations, two nights in good air conditioned 

accommodation (share twin) and airport transfers. If participants do not have 

someone to share with, they must pay the difference for a single room. 


Recommended flights: 

Nov 12, 2010 Bangkok Suvarnabhumi to Chiang Rai: Air Asia Flight FD 

3250 7:00 a.m. departure 

and 

Nov 14, 2010 Chiang Rai to Bangkok: Air Asia Flight FD 3257 21:30 

departure. 

For more information on the program, please refer to the NMV website. 


EXCURSIONS POLICY 

Participating in NMV excursions is a benefit of being a member. An NMV 

member may be accompanied by a non-member if they are family or a house 

guest (maximum of 2), space permitting.* 

Bookings 

. Always make reservations by email to the organiser listed in the announcement. 

. Please provide your name, mobile number plus membership status of you 

and guest(s).* 

. You are not registered until your request has been received by email and 

an acknowledgement has been sent to you in writing. 

Reservations are on a first-come, first-served basis. 

. 

By making a booking, you are committing to pay in full for your place. 

If full payment is requested prior to an excursion and has not been 

received, the organisers retain the right to pass your place to another 

person. 

. Often an excursion announcement will give a booking deadline. If full, the 

trip may close and be finalised before this date. 

. Until the excursion organiser is actually in receipt of your payment, you are 

not considered to have paid. 

. The NMV reserves the right to cancel an excursion if enough members do 

not sign up. 

Cancellations 

. Your payment indicates your intention to travel. If you cancel, there will not 

be a refund. 

. 

If you cannot attend an excursion, please notify the organiser immediately. 

If you cancel your booking, unpaid fees are considered a debt owed to the 

NMV. We regret that no further bookings can be made until this debt is 

cleared. 

WAIVER OF LIABILITY 

The NMV will not provide personal insurance for excursion participants. The 

Museum Group’s Excursions are an activity of the National Museum Volunteers, 

which is a non-profit organization and is not a professional travel service. It 

cannot be held responsible for any injury, loss, or damage that may occur 

during any excursion, although the Museum Group’s Excursions will make 

reasonable efforts to provide for the safety of participants. 


MEMBERSHIP APPLICATION 

Please complete all details on this form and mail to the address below with 

a crossed cheque of 1,200 Baht for residents in Thailand (1,800 Baht for 

couple) or 2,000 Baht or US $60 (for cheques drawn on a US bank) 

for an overseas subscription, made payable to NATIONAL MUSEUM 

VOLUNTEERS. We regret Postal Orders cannot be accepted. 

MEMBERSHIP CHAIRPERSON 


P. O. Box 1305, Nana Post Office 

Bangkok 10112 

Prof/Dr/Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms: (First name) 

(Family name) 

(PLEASE USE CAPITALS) 

Address: 

Postal Code: 

Telephone: Fax: 

E-mail: 

Mobile Phone: 

Nationality 

New Member Renewal Change of Address 

Cash: 

Cheque Amount: 

Bank Name & Cheque No: 

Date: 

Please indicate if you would like to volunteer in any of the following: 

Guiding Newsletter Contribution Library Slide Library 

Editing Computer Skills Publication Hospitality 

Other (please specify) 

Membership entitles you to: 

Attend the guiding workshop to train to become a museum guide. 

Participate in study groups. 

Enjoy discounted fees and preference on local and out-of-town excursions, 

at homes and lectures. 

Receive the NMV monthly newsletter 

Use the NMV library (Possibility to borrow books) 


NMV STEERING COMMITTEE 

Patron: 

MR Chakrarot Chitrabongs 

President: Bo Mazur * 

Vice-president: Isabelle Depaty * 

Secretary: Claudia van der Heyden * 

Treasurer: Benedicte Huaut * 

Guide Chair: Berni Sabatini * 

Tour leaders: 

English (Tours): Lynda O’Callaghan 

French: Isabelle Depaty * 

Jean-Pierre Joly 

German: 

Barbara Frank 

Christiane Fischer 

Japanese Liaison 1: Kumi Ishii 

Japanese Liaison 2: Naomi Nomoto 

At Homes: Jo-Ann Gasteen * 

Accessibility: Kerstin Droge 

Shalindri Ranawana 

Library: 

Francoise Vincent 

Barb MacNeill 

Lecture series: Jean Harvey 

Matthias Geisler 

Membership: Annemarie Hellemans * 

Monthly program: Anette Pollner 

NMV News Editor: Devin Brougham * 

Product Manager: Frederic Prager 

Publicity: 

Ines Ehrlich 

Tami Niv 

Excursions: 

Viorica Brougham 

Aviva Biran 

Study Groups: Else Geraets * 

Martine Mauffrey 

Hospitality: 

Eva Wauschkun 

Sylvia Zurhelle 

Webmaster: Bo Mazur * 

Contact us: President: information@museumvolunteersbkk.net 

News Editor: nmvnews@gmail.com 

Webmaster: webmaster@museumvolunteersbkk.net 

* Executive committee members 

. November 2010 . Newsletter National Museum Volunteers .

www.museumvolunteersbkk.net 


P.O. Box 1305 Nana Post Office 

Bangkok 10112 

Thailand 

กลุมอาสาสมัครพิพิธภัณฑสถานแหงชาติ 

ตู ป.ณ. 1305 นานา 

กรุงเทพฯ 10112 

The National Museum Bangkok is located on 

Naphrathat Road (ถนนหนาพระธาตุ) 

between the National Theatre and Thammasat University, 

across from the Sanam Luang

November 2010 - National Museum Volunteers

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