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Houndstooth - Imprint (NYC)

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Chung<br />

The late Alexander McQueen opened his Fall 2009 collection with 1940s<br />

silhouette dress suits, nipped at the waist and composed with a flared skirt in<br />

houndstooth wool (See fig. 9). McQueen created a stage for symbolizing the sudden<br />

crash of luxury exuberance in 2009. The clothes he sent out parodied the couture<br />

designs of the last century, spoofing Dior’s New Look and Givenchy’s little black<br />

dress. This referencing of houndstooth as a fabric pattern, a symbol of English<br />

propriety, an icon of luxury, and finally of itself calls to mind a key thought by<br />

Caroline Evans, “We are not fixed in the present but constantly thinking forwards<br />

and projecting backwards, demonstrating a kind of consciousness and self-­‐scrutiny<br />

that has been identified as intrinsic to modernity…” 22<br />

Postmodernism shared and played with the scale and shape of the<br />

houndstooth symbol. No longer restricted to only a woven textile in wool, the<br />

houndstooth-­‐check is now applied as a print on a range of fabrics and in various<br />

colors. The appeal has gone beyond fashion and textiles and into the world of three<br />

dimensional product designs. 23 While the pattern is still used in small scale for more<br />

somber applications such as men’s tailoring, the blown up, large-­‐scale, black and<br />

white houndstooth-­‐check recently become a fashion statement. Fashion designers<br />

such as Yohji Yamamoto created an entire collection of houndstooth-­‐check<br />

Edwardian suits for his Fall 2003 collection, paying homage to Christian Dior (See<br />

fig.10). 24 Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2008, ready-­‐to-­‐wear collection reminisced about<br />

the 1980s, with large houndstooth-­‐check prints on colorfully bright skirts, a banana-­‐<br />

yellow sweatshirt dress, bright pink bags, and strappy ankle boots (See fig. 11). The<br />

pink houndstooth-­‐check dress with a stand-­‐up collar achieved a new playfulness<br />

8

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