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The Air Lock Is Usually Created In The

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Description: 5.5 kw Mac-Afric electric start diesel (silent-type) generator.<br />

Code: MGENER/004<br />

Specifications:<br />

- <strong>The</strong> rated output of this unit is 5 kw (6.5 kVa), with the maximum power output at 5.5 kw (5500 watt) at a<br />

maximum current of 18.2 amps. This is supplied in 220V at 50Hz.<br />

- This unit runs most efficiently on unleaded petrol, and has a fuel tank capacity of 10 litres. <strong>The</strong> fuel consumption<br />

with load is +-800ml/h.<br />

- This generator has a 13hp motor.<br />

- <strong>The</strong> recommended oil for this unit is 1.5l 15 W 40.<br />

- This generator comes equipped with an AVR unit.<br />

- This generator is supplied with a 12v sealed battery. We do not guarantee the battery. Faulty/dead batteries can<br />

be replaced by any 12v motorcycle battery.<br />

- <strong>The</strong> unit is mounted on a frame inside the soundproof box, which greatly reduces the noise level of the machine.<br />

Typical uses for this generator:<br />

This generator can be used on site to run a variety of power tools, lights and some household equipment. This unit can be<br />

safely used in residential areas and places where noise is a factor.<br />

General maintenance tips & troubleshooting<br />

- Diesel generators generally need to be bled before they start and run properly. Why is this? Diesel generators<br />

tend to create airlocks. <strong>Air</strong>locks can occur if a generator runs out of diesel, causing the diesel pump to suck in air,<br />

or during the assembly of the machine. How is this fixed? Very simple.


<strong>The</strong> air lock is usually created in the diesel pump. <strong>The</strong><br />

safest way to clear this is by firstly removing the silver pipe<br />

from the diesel pump, as well as the black rubber hose<br />

from the solenoid valve.<br />

<strong>The</strong> black rubber hose bring diesel from the tank to the<br />

diesel pump and the silver pipe transports the diesel to the<br />

engine.<br />

An air lock occurs when an air bubble prevents the plunger<br />

inside the pump to act as a diaphragm. <strong>The</strong> bubble resists<br />

the movement of the plunger which prevents diesel from<br />

being pumped through to the engine.<br />

Connect the ends of the two pipes together. By doing this, you<br />

have bypassed the diesel pump. Diesel will now flow directly<br />

into the silver pipe towards the injector.<br />

Reconnect the pipes as per the first picture. <strong>The</strong> air bubble will<br />

now be sucked through the system upon starting the generator.<br />

To start the generator, pull down on this decompression<br />

lever and turn the ignition. Make sure that the fuel tap is<br />

open. This is found just below the tank.<br />

When the generator starts you should let it run for +- 30<br />

seconds before killing the engine.<br />

Refer to the next section if you experience any further<br />

problems.<br />

- <strong>The</strong> generator does not start after checking for an air lock. <strong>The</strong>re could be two possibilities to this happening.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re is a problem on either the solenoid valve or the diesel pump. Firstly, make sure that the fuel tap is open and<br />

that diesel reaches the solenoid valve.<br />

Disconnect the silver pipe from the diesel pump and start the machine. A working solenoid valve should allow a<br />

few drops of diesel to be squirted out from the diesel pump’s outlet. You should also hear a loud “click” sound as<br />

the magnet disengages the valve.


If none of these happen, first replace the solenoid valve before checking the diesel pump itself.<br />

- <strong>The</strong>re is a “click”, but no boom, or squirting. It has happened in the past where the plunger mechanism in the<br />

diesel pump has rusted solid. To fix this, remove the diesel pump and spray Q20 or any anti-rust & lubricating<br />

agent onto the spring and plunger.<br />

Leave the pump for about half an hour to allow the Q20 to properly loosen the rust and lubricate all the parts.<br />

Take a rubber mallet and hit the bottom of the plunger until it moves freely again.<br />

Replace all the parts, connect the pipes and you should have a working generator.<br />

- Remember the oil sensor. <strong>The</strong> generator comes standard with an “oil level sensor”, of which the main function is<br />

to protect the engine when the oil level is too low. This is easily resolved by checking the dipstick, situated at the<br />

bottom of the sump, and adding oil. If the generator still does not start, unplug the yellow wire protruding from<br />

the side off the generator from the green wire. This is the oil sensor’s wire. Start the generator, and let it run for 5<br />

minutes before reconnecting the two wires. <strong>The</strong> engine should cut out if the oil sensor is faulty. This is easily<br />

replaced with a new oil sensor, available from our spares department. It is very important that your generator<br />

is placed on a level area whilst in use, otherwise the oil sensor may not pick up that there is no oil in the<br />

sump. This may cause your engine to overheat and seize.<br />

- <strong>The</strong> engine is running, but there is no power output from the plugs. This generator comes standard with an<br />

AVR unit. What does this do? <strong>The</strong> AVR is best explained as follows. It can be seen as a tap with a fuse. Why a<br />

tap with a fuse? Just like a tap, the AVR “opens” to allow a certain amount of current through, for instance, if you<br />

need 2kw from a 4kw generator, the AVR will allow 2kw of power through. It does this by raising the engine’s<br />

revolutions enough so that the alternator supplies the needed power. When you turn the tool off, the AVR drops<br />

the engine’s revolutions to an idle.<br />

<strong>The</strong> AVR acts as a fuse when the demand for power is too high. Every generator can supply a maximum amount<br />

of power. <strong>The</strong> 4kw can give 4.5kw maximum. When you try and run a geyser, which may need 5kw, the AVR<br />

will burn out, cutting the supply from the alternator to the plugs. Excessive demands for power such as this may<br />

lead to the field coil windings burning. <strong>In</strong> these cases a rewind is needed, which is very costly. <strong>The</strong> AVR, which is<br />

available as a spare part, is replaced by removing the black cover from the alternator, and removing the banana<br />

shaped block. This is the AVR, and must be replaced when damaged.<br />

- Will a welding machine run from my generator? Looking at old technology welders, such as the oil bath type,<br />

the answer is definitely no. Traditional oil bath welders require large amounts of current, sometimes up to 40<br />

amps, to function properly. This is much more than any of our petrol generators can supply. <strong>The</strong>y also tend to<br />

cause power fluctuations as they only pull power when you weld. <strong>The</strong> generator will basically go from idling to<br />

full power, back to idling, back to full power, which will cause major damage to the motor and windings.<br />

- What about my inverter welder? We do not advise the using an inverter on any of the generators. <strong>The</strong> fluctuation<br />

in current causes damage to vital parts on the pc-boards. You will however, in case of an emergency, be able to<br />

run a 160 amp inverter on NO MORE THAN 90amps off the 5.5kw generator.<br />

- Using an extension on the generator. It is possible that you may need to use an extension from the generator.<br />

Please keep the following in mind. A Proper 2.5mm core extension must be used. <strong>The</strong>n, for every 10metres of<br />

length, there will be an approximate power loss of 500w – 600w (2.2amps – 2.7amps). Keep this in mind,<br />

especially when using lengths of up to 40m that will equal a loss of about 2000w.

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