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24 RESTAURANTS<br />

The Czech Menu<br />

The Czech language is notoriously difficult for foreign<br />

tongues to get to grips with, not only for the unusual<br />

letters, but also because it is a heavily declined language.<br />

Your menu will hold various variations on the theme, but<br />

with the following words as a basis, you should be able<br />

to figure out what’s in your mouth.<br />

bez masa without meat<br />

biftek beefsteak<br />

brambor potato<br />

domácí home made<br />

dušené steamed<br />

grilované grilled<br />

guláš goulash, the Czech staple<br />

hermelín brie, often pickled with garlic and<br />

eaten with beer<br />

hovězí beef<br />

hranolky chips/french fries<br />

jehněčí lamb<br />

jídelní lístek food menu<br />

jídlo food<br />

knedlíky dumplings<br />

kuře chicken<br />

losos salmon<br />

na roštu roasted<br />

nápojový lístek drinks menu<br />

niva blue cheese<br />

oběd lunch<br />

řízek schnitzel<br />

ovoce fruit<br />

palačinky crepe<br />

pečené baked<br />

pivní sýr beer cheese, hard and served<br />

with paprika and onion, eaten<br />

with beer<br />

plněné stuffed<br />

přílohy side dishes<br />

polévka soup<br />

pstruh trout<br />

ryba fish<br />

rýže rice<br />

sekaná meatloaf; looks awful, tastes<br />

good<br />

slanina bacon<br />

smažené fried<br />

smažený sýr fried cheese, surprisingly good<br />

snídaně breakfast<br />

svíčková beef in cream sauce<br />

sýr cheese<br />

špíz grilled and skewered<br />

šunka ham<br />

těstoviny pasta<br />

utopenec a.k.a. drowned man, pickled<br />

sausage, eaten with beer<br />

uzené smoked<br />

vařené boiled<br />

večeře dinner<br />

vepřové pork<br />

vepřové koleno pork knee, particularly<br />

carnivorous<br />

vinný lístek wine menu<br />

zelenina vegetables<br />

U Kalicha I-6, Praha 2, Na Bojišti 12, MI.P. Pavlova, tel.<br />

(+420) 296 18 96 00, www.ukalicha.cz. The pub that features<br />

at the beginning of the Czech literary classic ‘The Good Soldier<br />

Švejk’ as the planned location of the never-to-be meeting “...at six<br />

in the evening after the war.” An oompah band keeps the atmosphere<br />

rolling. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 300Kč). PAEG<br />

U Pinkasů E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám. 16,<br />

MMůstek, tel. (+420) 221 11 11 50, www.upinkasu.<br />

cz. The presence of locals is encouraging in this beer hall<br />

whose not unimpressive claim to fame is that of being the first<br />

pivnice in Prague to have Pilsner Urquell on draught. A commemorative<br />

plaque and a tap mark the spot where this country’s<br />

most renowned beer began to flow in 1843. In today’s<br />

establishment you’ll find a courtyard terrace and two floors of<br />

beer swilling and sausage eating. More elegant no-smoking<br />

rooms are available for dining; the menu, although traditional,<br />

is uninspired. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. (150 - 200Kč). AB<br />

Chinese<br />

Fu Hao H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 10, MNárodní třída, tel.<br />

(+420) 721 87 35 37. Just look for the enormous Chinese vases<br />

in the windows opposite Prague’s most celebrated beer hall, U<br />

Fleků, to find this friendly restaurant decorated in the usual faux<br />

Chinese fashion. Although the menu is on the simplistic side, the<br />

dishes are delicious. Not surprisingly, given we’re in the Czech Republic,<br />

the duck is excellent. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (60-100 Kč).<br />

Huang He K-7, Praha 10, Vršovická 1, tel. (+420) 271<br />

74 66 51, www.huanghe.cz. Chinese as good as it should<br />

be; they spice the food up properly then warn Czech clients not<br />

to order that dish. Enjoy the hot and sour soup, but everything<br />

else on the menu is worth ordering, too. Tram N°6 from from<br />

I.P. Pavlova to the Nádrazí Vršovice stop. Reservations recommended.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also in Prague 9, Kolbenova<br />

1, tel. 283 89 05 18. (100 - 300Kč). AGP<br />

NEW<br />

Peking Praha 4 - Pankrác, Pujmanové 10, MPankrác, tel.<br />

241 73 06 88, info@peking.cz, www.pekingrestaurant.<br />

cz. You‘re in Prague, not Beijing. But if a craving for Chinese<br />

food suddenly strikes, head out into the hinterlands of Prague<br />

4 for what most will say is the best Chinese in town. Dim sum,<br />

har kau and their spring rolls are excellent starters, while main<br />

course hits include Peking duck (be hungry!) and prawns with<br />

mango. The restaurant is huge and groups are very welcome.<br />

Lazy Susans sit on the tables - perfect for sharing. QOpen<br />

11:30 - 15:30 & 17:30-23:00. (139 - 599Kč). PW<br />

Czech<br />

Baráčnická rychta A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 23, MMalostranská,<br />

tel. (+420) 257 53 24 61, www.baracnickarychta.cz.<br />

This dark and cosy pub, aglow from the large copper<br />

lighting fixtures, may be the perfect place to experience<br />

the beauty of Czech winters, although in the warmer months<br />

it may translate as a little stuffy. Either way the food is as<br />

earthy and homemade as it comes in Prague. A must for those<br />

wanting a downbeat, ‘real’ Czech eating experience. QOpen<br />

11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (50 - 150Kč). AE<br />

Bílá vrána Praha 3, Jagellonská 10, MJiřího z Poděbrad,<br />

tel. (+420) 737 07 00 05, www.bilavrana.com. Czech pubs<br />

are moving from their working class roots and employing inventive<br />

chefs to elevate the seemingly similar menus they host. The<br />

White Raven is no exception with even lunch specials inviting<br />

compliments. Excellent service and quality join some English<br />

elements (yet to be tried Sunday roast and Beamish in cans).<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (90 - 300Kč). BSW<br />

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com<br />

Bredovský dvůr F-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 13,<br />

MHlavní nádraží, tel. (+420) 224 21 54 28, www.bredovskydvur.unas.cz.<br />

Another modern version of the Czech<br />

hospoda tradition, Bredovský dvůr delivers cellar ambience<br />

dimly lit by funky lights, a long iron bar, cool furniture and excellent<br />

kitchen. An extremely popular lunchtime attracts the crowds<br />

with the 75kč menu until 2pm. The menu mimics the funky<br />

and old world fusion of the décor, with Czech dishes tweaked<br />

by international additions, pasta dishes providing a tasty and<br />

cheap alternative, and big screen enticing the sports fans. Try<br />

buck steak, venison goulash, or stick to old favourites. Additional<br />

seating around the open kitchen is available at the rear. QOpen<br />

11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 300Kč). PA<br />

Budweiser Budvar Restaurant Praha 6, Aviatická<br />

1092/8, tel. (+420) 224 24 25 77, www.restaurantletiste.cz.<br />

In the cold environs of the new shopping centre<br />

by the airport Marriott this Budvar restaurant hardly entices<br />

with character. The traditional Czech cuisine is good and<br />

although prices are higher than in town, it’s worth grabbing<br />

a meal here before entering the vastly inflated prices of the<br />

airport itself. The café next door has comfortable seats but<br />

little else to attract other than there isn’t anything better at<br />

the airport. QOpen 10:30 - 22:00. (120 - 440Kč). PTA<br />

Celnice I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky,<br />

tel. (+420) 224 21 22 40, www.kolkovna.cz. An excellent,<br />

upmarket restaurant owned by the Pilsner brewery<br />

decorated with period photos and brewing equipment. The<br />

menu includes all the Czech standards including pork knuckle<br />

and rabbit, but Celnice also serves some more imaginative<br />

and vegetarian options. Unfortunately, the large space can<br />

get noisy when the downstairs bar turns up the volume later<br />

in the evening. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 -<br />

04:00. (150 - 335Kč). PAGB<br />

Ferdinanda I-4, Corner of Opletalova & Politických<br />

věznů, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 222 24 43 02, www.<br />

ferdinanda.cz. Two floors, two bars, two big screens, many<br />

tables, beer kegs, weird furnishings, and excellent service<br />

bring Ferdinanda to the hardly parched but very welcoming<br />

notice of Prague’s beer lovers. The food is good too with a delicious<br />

gulaš and more. Speedy lunch specials and breakfast<br />

menu add to their staples. Pivovar Ferdinand produces the<br />

Sedm Kulí 13 degrees beer apparently named for the seven<br />

bullets that killed Franz Ferdinand - the archduke, not the band.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (85 - 250Kč). GW<br />

Folklore Garden Na Zlíchově 18, tel. (+420) 724 33<br />

43 40, info@folkloregarden.cz, www.folkloregarden.<br />

cz. If you’re not one to sit still during a meal, then this is the<br />

restaurant for you. At Folklore Garden, you’re fed large portions<br />

of traditional Czech food and beer, and simultaneously<br />

entertained with a two and one-half hour show with live music<br />

and folk dancing. Great fun if you’re in for a country-style party;<br />

active participation is welcomed. Folklore Garden is south of<br />

Smíchov; tram N°12, 14 or 20 to Hlubočepy. QOpen 20:00 -<br />

22:30. (560 - 1050Kč). PAEB<br />

Koliba U Pastýřky J-7, Praha 4, Bělehradská 15, MI.P.<br />

Pavlova, tel. (+420) 222 56 43 35, www.pastyrka.cz.<br />

Chow down on superbly grilled meat sizzling all around you<br />

to really get those taste buds salivating. The Shepherdess’s<br />

Cottage caters to Czechs and tour groups (private salons<br />

seat up to 80 people) with trestle type dining to the tune of<br />

traditional dulcimer Gypsy music. The wooden cottage was<br />

built as a representative Czechoslovak restaurant for the<br />

1967 World Exhibition in Montreal and shipped over here to<br />

continue the Czech dining pleasure. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00.<br />

(90 - 300Kč). EB<br />

prague.inyourpocket.com<br />

RESTAURANTS<br />

Restaurace Monarch<br />

V Kolkovně 6 - Praha 1<br />

tel. (+420) 222 315 545<br />

www.restauracemonarch.cz<br />

Lví dvůr A-1, Praha 1, U Prašného mostu 6, MHradčanská,<br />

tel. (+420) 224 37 23 61, www.lvidvur.cz. Loitering in a<br />

small house at the northern entrance to the castle, the Lion’s<br />

Court offers Czech cooking fit for royalty at princely prices.<br />

The European wine selection is excellent and their kitchen<br />

does amazing things to pork that we hadn’t dreamed possible.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (150 - 400Kč). PAB<br />

Sovovy Mlýny B-3, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2,<br />

MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 53 59 00, www.<br />

sovovymlyny.com. The restaurant in the white mill building<br />

on Kampa Island is especially recommended for its riverside<br />

terrace; its low and so close to the Vltava lock canal that you<br />

can almost clink glasses with the partying tourists on the boats<br />

chugging to and from the Vltava locks. The menu includes many<br />

decent fish dishes but dont let that distract you from the views<br />

of the weir and Charles Bridge. Bring something warm and<br />

mosquito repellent. QOpen , Mon, Thu, Sun 10:00 - 18:00,<br />

Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue, Wed. PAGB<br />

Století C-4, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 21, MNárodní<br />

třída, tel. (+420) 222 22 00 08, www.stoleti.cz. The<br />

food is great value, the atmosphere lively and the service<br />

fantastic. Even better, Století is one of the only restaurants<br />

that is seriously attempting to progress Czech cuisine while<br />

keeping it Czech at the same time. Plus, they are non-smoking<br />

and offer take-away. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč).<br />

PTAUIGBS<br />

Švejk D-2, Praha 1, Široká 20, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420)<br />

224 81 39 64. Someone spent some money (and not much by<br />

the look of it) to make a new restaurant look old - basically what<br />

a beer hall would look like in the Czech pavilion at the World Expo.<br />

That said, Švejk restaurants are always good for traditional food<br />

like duck, pork and wild boar served with dumplings, cabbage and<br />

a local beer. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 300Kč). A<br />

Tlustá kachna D-2, Praha 1, Široká 4, MStaroměstská,<br />

tel. (+420) 224 81 96 68, www.tlustakachna.cz. Imaginative<br />

Czech cuisine can be done; and the Fat Duck is doing<br />

it. Pork or duck with cabbage and dumplings isn’t new or<br />

exotic; but done right it is delicious, and it’s done right here.<br />

The must order though is the creamy garlic soup. Czech wine<br />

and beer take care of the drinks. Two additional things stand<br />

out; excellent service and big portions. Stop by. QOpen<br />

11:00 - 24:00. 139-390kč.<br />

February - March 2010<br />

25

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