GUNS Magazine January 1960 - Jeffersonian

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SPECIAL! ••• Your Model J9J7 Enfield .30- 1 06 Handsomely Sporterized New Monte Carlo cheekpiece stock of select-grade American walnut with special mar-resistant "Fire Kate" finish. Barrel length cut to 23", new ramp front sight with gold bead and folding-leaf rear. Heavy floor piate and trigger guard replaced, maga Zine box cut to fit into stock. Streamlining and weight-reduction of a fuil two pounds, plus Kodiak craftsmanship and tender loving care, make the old workhorse a thing of beauty. Quick-detachable sling swiveLs and genuine-leather sling $4.50 extra. Send rifle direct or through your dealer. \iI "-'1JftIA!!J Please enter my subscriplion for THE AMERICAN RIFLEMAN; enroll me as an NRA member and send my gold·filled lapel button· .0 Enclosed is my $5.00 0 Bill me please 603-01 Name __........ .. ..__m..m...._.....mm_mm...Age _ Address ...._.. ... . --..~-..-- 7.65 mm. MAUSER SPORTER $34.95 Strong, safe, fully reliable military-issue rifie manufactured In pre-war Germany, beautifully custom sporterized. World· famous Mauser action, fine black-walnut stock 22" barrel sling swivels, ramp front sight with gold be~d, elevating rear sight. Headspace checked, test -fired, targeted, ready to go. A truly superb value. Genuine leather carrying sling, $3.00 extra. Ammunition $10.00 per hundred in un· limited supply. SHOOT.ERS! Write for catalog of fine walnut stocks, blued barreled actions, barrels, other Items, ali at lowest prices. DEALERS! Liberal discounts to you on all Kodiak merchandise, low prices. Satis· faction guaranteed or your money back! Write for full details of the Kodiak deal! ~eeve ''lOUled FUN ~ YOUR GUNS! OVER A QUARTER·MILLION SPORTSMEN INVITE YOU TO A Year's Subscription to The AMERICAN RIFLEMAN Magazine :" .\ ""~Read about rifles, pistols, shotguns, hunting, target ~ shooting, gun
worry about that soft soldering. If properly done, the sight will stay put. Stipple the sloping ramp by using a prick punch and a light hammer, putting a multitude of tiny holes in the surface. This is a most effective way of breaking up light reflection. Now lets take a look at those two big ears on the receiver, that protect the rear sight. Pretty awful, aren't they? Well, we haven't a surface grinder, so we'll cut them off with a hack saw using the high·speed type of blade-you won't get very far with the cheap blade for these receivers are plenty hard. After you have cut them off, round off the corners with a good file. If you plan on mounting a scope on your rifle leave the top perfectly flat and exactly the same height as the forward receiver ring. If you don't want a scope, you can mount an aperture sight on the right hand side. I have found the Lyman 57 S.M.E. close to the proper shape on the base. Slight alteration may be necessary. Some scope makers do not recommend mounting scopes on receivers which have oblong holes milled in the top of the rear receiver ring. This seems to me completely ridiculous, since these holes can be readily plugged with a properly haped steel plug, lightly driven and with 2%" holes drilled horizontally through the receiver and plug. Then drive two slightly tapered pins through these holes. Then file the whole surface down smooth, and you'll have a plug that the devil himself won't loosen. In addition, the small hole already drilled and tapped in the top, that held the original sight spring in place, is exactly centered. It is also the proper size (6 x 48) for the screws used in scope base mounting. Now let's have a look at the floor plate and trigger guard. The forward end should be straightened out if you don't want an un· sightly dip in your new stock. Cut that dip off with a hack saw just in front of the floor plate and file the edge to a slight V, likewise the short piece of 1,4" x I" steel that you have selected for the extension. The V on the ends of the pieces are there for your garage man to have a small trough for the weld bead. Fill it up on both sides with weld. Overall length should be about the same as original. Position the hole in the welded-on piece for the forward guard screw, and drill, using the old size as a guide. Then file to shape. Shaping a stock is a project in itself. You can practically write your own ticket in that respect. I would suggest that a semi-inletted and rough-turned blank of a good grade be purchased, since the .300 Magnum has some recoil: The cheaper grades are fairly open grain, and do not possess the strength of the more dense blanks. Use an old coal oil lamp, with the chimney off, to blacken your action and barrel. With your stock in the vise, set the receiver and barrel in the 1'Ough inletting and note where it touches; then cut a small amount of wood away at these points, put it back in and try again. Some stocks I'equire very little finishing to get a good fit, so go slow. For finishing the inletting, it is sur· prising what one can do with an absolute minimum of wood working tools. Use care and go slow, it will payoff. A good quality recoil pad should be installed, if you are recoil conscious. As I said before, the .300 Magnum has a bit of recoil. If you decide to checker the grip and forearm, do a bit of practicing on odd pieces of wood, flat and curved, before you start on the finished Blak" is good. Put this in your tank, add a st.ock. If you want to dress up your st.ock, gallon and a half of water and light. your you can add a bakelit.e fore-end tip, either the stove. (Wit.h Blu.Blak, follow the direct.ions.) square t.ype or slanted. These can be pur- An ordinary candy thermometer will give chased from any glm supply house. Make you the correct temperature. Snap the clip sure you get a white insert for both tips and over the edge of the tank with the business grip cap, as it adds to the appearance. The end in the solution. While you are waiting slant.ed type give a more racy appearance, for the solution to come up to 280°, run a but are more difficult to fit closely. short length of stove pipe wire through your For finishing the stock, you have several barrel, allowing enough to hang onto at both choices. In general, oil finishes have a ten· ends. Also put a wire on the floor plat.e and dency to darken down over the years, so if trigger guard at both ends, and all other your wood has a fairly decent. figure I metal parts that you have polished. would suggest a plastic varnish. I have used When your temperature shows 280°, put t.his with success over quite a number of all the part.s in the solution. Don't splash years. It is sold under the trade name of it on your clothes, and wear a pair of rub· Almatex and if you don't like the high polish ber gloves-t.his stuff is potent. Leave the it leaves it can be rubbed down with fine parts in about. ten minutes, wat.ching the ternsteel wool or powdered pumice. (In the USA, perature. Don't let. it get much over 285° a DuPont lacquer will work welL) since temperature cont.rol is half the battle. Next. step is reblueing the met.al parts of Now take the pieces out, and immerse in your gun. Most. home workshops have a small cold water. Take a look at them, you'll notice huffing head, so get a couple of buffing some places that haven't blued. That is bewheels made from sisal, the same stuff that cause there was a bit of oil or other fouling is used in making rope, and go at. it, using at that spot. Go over all the pieces with the buffing compound. I use what. is known as SS finest steel wool you can buy, giving them 75 or 100, which indicates the grit. The sisal a good rub down. Put them back in again buff will do the job much faster than a cot- and leave for about five minutes. By this ton wheel. You can finish off with the cotton time you should have a deep, even blue over wheel if you wish, which will give a higher everything. If not, repeat the process except 1ustre. after the last immersion wash the pieces Now make a tank 5" x 5" x 36" or 38" down with a cloth, not steel wool, and pour long. If you are only going to do this one boiling water over all the pieces to kill what gun, don't go to any great expense. It can be remains of the bluing salts. Now soak everymade from galvanized sheeting. Have the thing 'with a good light oil, and take a look corners brazed. Don't solder them, as the at your handiwork. If you have done your polishing well you should have a good finish. blueing solution will eat out the solder in Remember, the higher the polish the better no time, and you wj}] have an awful mess will be your finish job. on your hands. Bear in mind all of the foregoing is writ. I use a three burner Coleman stove for ten on the basis of a "do it yourself" man. supplying the heat, which must be operated Much more could be written in detail. But at about 280-285 degrees. if you, like most of us, like to find out Buy 15 pounds of blueing solution. There for yourself, go to it. You'll have a ..wonderare several makes on the market. I use what ful time, and a po~erful sporter built ..~ is known as Houghto-black 15. The US "Blu· the way you want It. ~:l r.=====::::':::==============~============~1 HANDLOADING TOOLS and COMPONENTS (See also pages 14, 46, 47) "Shoot to Uve. or Uve to Shoot. You Can Depend on C C , Primers" "Uftifo,,,,ity ift shootift. 40,olli. Oft tho HCU'HY of ,olooeli", olli tho "i",o, us04 to lOt off ........". l':.'~,=",,~:::r.....::=: ..--- 'fH"_"W~ _c__._"-_ C_'""r._. ,til •.w _ c--.- IfHlI __ .... "SSH ''r.:.=...,- __ _ . ,.n"~ S.,,4 f., Now 1959 I,och",o No. .. .•, Asic You, 0..1., 40' cho,.o. As 0 'olico Office. .ftfI os • s'orts"'.... I ovo llsoci .ftfI 40,oft4 011 CCI 'ri..o's," wys Joh" 1)0'011, Spohno, W.shi".ton IUY .UALlYy••• • IUY ACCUIACY... IVY eel GUNS JANUARY 1960 45
Page 1 and 2: .JANUARY 1960 SOc THE BIG LITTLE .2
Page 3 and 4: A-a.:H"W~kl-fl(NJrrrCS:-THIS IS POR
Page 5 and 6: JANUARY. 1960 Vol. VI, No. 1-61 Geo
Page 7 and 8: THE NEw CUSTOM GREAT WESTERN FIREAR
Page 9 and 10: History plainly shows that an armed
Page 11 and 12: Shooters' Problem We here in Southe
Page 13 and 14: .22 6·SHOT REVOLVER $12.95 .22 MOS
Page 15 and 16: S&W M&P VICTORY MODEL .38 saw CTG.
Page 17 and 18: CROWNS NEW TRAP CREA.TS THIS IS WHE
Page 19 and 20: The varmint-flat, moose-strong .257
Page 21 and 22: What happens to the shooter's hand?
Page 23 and 24: Alaskan outfitter DeHart poses behi
Page 25 and 26: Tree farms like Olin Forests in Lou
Page 27 and 28: Typical smallbore sporter is chambe
Page 29 and 30: WEARING CORRECT SHOOTING GARB CAN B
Page 31 and 32: aperture rear sight. These two litt
Page 33 and 34: Gun OF ,- r II ~_ t#'\.:: ~"-",,,,,
Page 35 and 36: ., ER'S BARGAINS 19S9's FAlIIJRITES
Page 37 and 38: CONVERTING .30·06 ENFIELD INTO SLI
Page 39 and 40: Purvis, former outfitter in Mexico,
Page 41 and 42: ARACK YOU CAN BUILD By FRED C. SCHW
Page 43: chamber reamers for making more bar
Page 47 and 48: jess uniform than a good commercial
Page 49 and 50: with 12 or 15 shots at small juice
Page 51 and 52: cial area down below and the "gapin
Page 53 and 54: ingratitude (the owner likes a "tha
Page 55 and 56: num, if they do their own loading.
Page 57 and 58: WITH OUTDOORSMAN'S SWEATSHIRT perfe
Page 59 and 60: GUNS RACK: Notes On Killing Power p
Page 61 and 62: ~oo~ and the .35 Whelen. I might ad
Page 63 and 64: ELMER KEITH SAYS ------------------
Page 65 and 66: THE FIRESIDE BOOK OF GUNS By Larry
Page 67 and 68: MAGAZINES IJ P-3S $5.50 ~~t~~:n~t-~

GUNS Magazine January 1960 - Jeffersonian

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