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A guide to Lawn Grass Development for temperate - DoFPS

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GREENING BHUTAN<br />

A <strong>guide</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Lawn</strong> <strong>Grass</strong> <strong>Development</strong> in Bhutan<br />

“An Experience in cool <strong>temperate</strong> environment”<br />

Tsering Gyeltshen<br />

Rangeland and Farming Systems Section<br />

Watershed Management Division<br />

Department of Forests & Park Services<br />

Ministry of Agriculture & Forests<br />

Thimphu : Bhutan<br />

December 2010


CONTENTS<br />

1. Background .................................................................................................................. 3<br />

2. Benefits ........................................................................................................................ 3<br />

3. New <strong>Lawn</strong> Establishment ............................................................................................ 4<br />

4. Planning ....................................................................................................................... 4<br />

5. Soil preparation............................................................................................................ 5<br />

6. Seed rate and sowing time ........................................................................................... 5<br />

7. Rake and roll ................................................................................................................ 6<br />

8. Watering ...................................................................................................................... 6<br />

9. Mowing and mower ..................................................................................................... 7<br />

10. Use of grass clippings .............................................................................................. 8<br />

11. <strong>Lawn</strong> maintenance ................................................................................................... 8<br />

11.1. Weeding ............................................................................................................ 8<br />

11.2. Top-dressing ..................................................................................................... 9<br />

11.3. <strong>Lawn</strong> Renovation .............................................................................................. 9<br />

12. Cool season grass ..................................................................................................... 9<br />

12.1. <strong>Lawn</strong> seed sources .......................................................................................... 10<br />

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1. Background<br />

A <strong>guide</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Lawn</strong> <strong>Grass</strong> <strong>Development</strong> in Bhutan<br />

“An Experience in cool <strong>temperate</strong> environment”<br />

The grasses we use <strong>to</strong>day <strong>for</strong> lawns have been around <strong>for</strong> centuries evolved in the<br />

meadows and <strong>for</strong>est glades grazed by large animals. The densely <strong>for</strong>med grasses that<br />

survived in these ecosystems are those that had low growing points and grazers did not<br />

eat them. A lawn is made up of thousands of individual grass plants or in mixtures of<br />

more than one grass species. Like any other plants, specific conditions must be met <strong>for</strong><br />

proper growth <strong>to</strong> occur <strong>to</strong> lawn grasses. When each plant is completely healthy, a lawn<br />

has the look of a “rolled-out carpet”.<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> 1 & 2: Newly established lawn in front of Outlet centre, RDC, Yusipang.<br />

The first experience with the lawn grass development in Bhutan was in the early 80s<br />

when Royal Golf course in Thimphu was developed. Although the lawn grass<br />

development in general is a recent phenomenon, it is gaining popularity amongst the<br />

urban dwellers especially in the growing <strong>to</strong>wns such as Thimphu, Paro, Phuntsholing etc.<br />

2. Benefits<br />

<strong>Lawn</strong>s serve different purposes. A lawn is pleasant scenery <strong>for</strong> a home landscape that ties<br />

<strong>to</strong>gether the surrounding flower gardens, ornamental trees, and shrubs. Also a lawn is<br />

used as an outdoor living room during warm weather. Other advantages of lawn are that<br />

turf grasses controls dust and reduce pollen in the air from plants that can cause allergy<br />

problems <strong>to</strong> some individuals. Turf grasses absorb gaseous pollutants such as carbon<br />

dioxide converting them <strong>to</strong> oxygen (Imperial lawns, USA). <strong>Lawn</strong>s also benefit home<br />

landscapes in many environmental ways as well. When it is hot, a lawn reduces glare<br />

from the sun and keeps the surrounding area cooler. When it is windy, the blades of grass<br />

trap particles of dust and when it is rainy; a lawn stabilizes soil and prevents erosion<br />

problems.<br />

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3. New <strong>Lawn</strong> Establishment<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> 3: Perfect place <strong>for</strong> fun<br />

It is necessary <strong>to</strong> know the important steps of the lawn development techniques. The<br />

successful lawn establishment means doing the “right thing at the right time”.<br />

4. Planning<br />

Much success depends on how well you plan your lawn development. There should be<br />

provision <strong>for</strong> basic equipments and inputs (Table 1). A turf grass is available in two broad<br />

categories, warm season grasses and cool season grasses. Cool season grasses are<br />

recommended <strong>for</strong> warm <strong>temperate</strong> <strong>to</strong> sub alpine zones


5. Soil preparation<br />

Preparing a field <strong>for</strong> lawn development is one of the most vital steps and a good seedbed<br />

preparation is a prerequisite <strong>for</strong> successful lawn establishment. If the soil is poor, arrange<br />

additional <strong>for</strong>est <strong>to</strong>psoil. The <strong>to</strong>psoil from broadleaved <strong>for</strong>est is preferred. Topsoil from<br />

the blue pine dominated <strong>for</strong>est can be used but it has acidity problem. On removing<br />

debris such as s<strong>to</strong>nes, wood and other items from the planting area, add the <strong>to</strong>p soil and<br />

the thickness of <strong>to</strong>psoil should be uni<strong>for</strong>m both on slope and flat areas.<br />

It is advisable <strong>to</strong> test your soil be<strong>for</strong>e adding any nutrient <strong>to</strong> the soil. A soil test eliminates<br />

guessing the amount of nutrients <strong>to</strong> be added. <strong>Lawn</strong> grass species per<strong>for</strong>m well at soil pH<br />

range of 5.5 <strong>to</strong> 7. For the proper grass growth, if your soil pH is below 5.5 add lime <strong>to</strong> the<br />

soil and if it is above 7, add sulfur. Organic matter and other soil additives such as<br />

fertilizers can usually be mixed with the <strong>to</strong>psoil. <strong>Lawn</strong> requires a larger amount of<br />

inorganic fertilizers mainly Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium (NPK). <strong>Lawn</strong>s require a<br />

large amount of N-Nitrogen <strong>to</strong> promote growth, color and general vigor. P-Phosphorus<br />

stimulates early root growth <strong>to</strong> ensure seedlings develop properly. Freshly seeded lawns<br />

require a fertilizer with high phosphorus content. Also P is necessary <strong>for</strong> proper plant cell<br />

division, which results in a strong, healthy and sturdy grass plant. K-Potassium<br />

strengthens root structure and increases disease resistance, improving the overall<br />

hardiness of grass plants. Even distribution of these materials of soil is most important.<br />

Rake the surface and roll the soil with a heavy roller 90-130 kg <strong>to</strong> define humps and<br />

hollows. Then rake surface lightly even off these irregularities and <strong>to</strong> prepare a loose<br />

planting bed of 1/4 -1/2 inch of soil.<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>es 4, 5, & 6: Different stages of land preparation <strong>for</strong> lawn establishment<br />

6. Seed rate and sowing time<br />

Seed rate while sowing depends on what lawn species one chooses and size of seeds. For<br />

instance Tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea) is 130kg per acre and whereas Kentucky<br />

bluegrass (Poa pratensis) seed rate is 35-40 kg/acre is applied. <strong>Lawn</strong> can also be sown in<br />

mixtures of 2-3 grass types. When a mixture containing seed two or more types of is<br />

applied, it has an advantage-the strength of one grass type compensates <strong>for</strong> the weakness<br />

of another. For this reason, a mixture is best <strong>for</strong> the average lawn. Broadcast the seed by<br />

hand. In order <strong>to</strong> ensure uni<strong>for</strong>mity distribution of seeds over a bed, use half the seeds<br />

first and sow remaining half in a crosswise direction. It is important <strong>to</strong> remember the best<br />

sowing time is when air is calm.<br />

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The best time <strong>to</strong> sow lawn seeds is in early spring (late March - early May) under<br />

irrigation in the cool <strong>temperate</strong> environment. <strong>Lawn</strong> can also be sown in summer but the<br />

heavy rain shower can affects the germination and establishment. The alternative sowing<br />

time is <strong>to</strong>wards the end of rainy season i.e.; mid September <strong>to</strong> end September when the<br />

optimal temperature <strong>for</strong> plant growth still adequate and young plants can survive over<br />

winter. Try <strong>to</strong> avoid seeding lawn during peak monsoon as lawn establishment is badly<br />

affected due <strong>to</strong> dominance by seasonal weeds that makes difficult <strong>to</strong> control. It also<br />

makes difficult <strong>to</strong> prepare land <strong>for</strong> seeding due <strong>to</strong> excess soil moisture. In most cases, the<br />

seeds are washed away and mini gullies are <strong>for</strong>med and eventually end up with heavy<br />

cost of reseedings – seed, fertilizer and labor. Under such situations mulching can be one<br />

of the control measures but it may not be practical if the lawn area is huge.<br />

It is important <strong>to</strong> treat your newly seeded lawn with special care. While it is getting<br />

established itself, surround the lawn area with stakes and stretched string <strong>to</strong> prevent<br />

people and animals from entering the area. Temporary fencing using bamboo materials<br />

can also serve the purpose.<br />

7. Rake and roll<br />

Once the seed is sown, lightly rake the seed in<strong>to</strong> soil, no deeper than the recommended<br />

planting depth <strong>for</strong> the particular variety. A thumb rule is that the depth should be just<br />

double of the seed size. While raking, care must be taken that the teeth just <strong>to</strong>uch the soil<br />

surface. Too much pressure will cover the seeds <strong>to</strong>o deep or move away some of them<br />

and leave bare spots in the new lawn. Make sure the seed is covered carefully until about<br />

10% is still visible. Finally roll the area with a light roller (25-35 kg) <strong>to</strong> compact the soil.<br />

If roller is not available, wooden blocks can also be used and ramming should be done<br />

from one direction.<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> 7 & 8: Wooden blocks and roller used <strong>to</strong> roll the area after seeding <strong>to</strong> firm the soil.<br />

8. Watering<br />

Irrigate the lawn soon after the seeding is completed. Frequent light watering promotes<br />

seed germination and rapid establishment. It is important <strong>to</strong> keep in mind that the seed<br />

bed is kept not dry or become soaked. Under ideal conditions, lawn seed germinates<br />

within 10 -15 days period. Germination rates vary according <strong>to</strong> the seed type and weather<br />

conditions. For light sprinkling, hand watering usually gives better regulations than a<br />

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sprinkler. New seedlings require light and frequent watering (2 times per day <strong>for</strong> the first<br />

2 weeks). As grass begins <strong>to</strong> grow, decrease the watering frequency but increase the<br />

amount of water used each time.<br />

Early morning is the ideal time <strong>to</strong> water and morning watering has advantage of less<br />

wind, milder temperatures, and adequate water pressure. Watering in the early hours is<br />

also best time <strong>to</strong> avoid possible spread of disease and fungus. It is important <strong>to</strong> note that<br />

cool season grasses require more water as compared <strong>to</strong> warm season grasses. When the<br />

lawn enters dormant periods in winter, watering at an interval of 2 weeks are essential <strong>to</strong><br />

keep the crowns of the grass alive. Afternoon watering has several disadvantages as<br />

evaporation caused by the wind and sun is at maximum, and there<strong>for</strong>e only lesser amount<br />

of water applied actually reaches the lawn. The best advice, though, <strong>for</strong> when <strong>to</strong> water is:<br />

“Water when the lawn needs it”.<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> 9: Manual watering Pho<strong>to</strong> 10: Watering Poa pratensis lawn using sprinkler<br />

9. Mowing and mower<br />

Theory says; “mow a new lawn <strong>for</strong> the first time after it has grown a third higher than the<br />

regular mowing height.” For example, a lawn that should be maintained at a height of 2<br />

inches or 2 inches high, it should be mowed when it reaches 2.5 <strong>to</strong> 3 inches. Do not<br />

remove more than a third of the <strong>to</strong>tal height of the grass. However, in field conditions,<br />

this is not practical as the soil remains <strong>to</strong>o soft and new grass is <strong>to</strong>o loosely knit <strong>to</strong> mow<br />

without damage. The best way is <strong>to</strong> wait and let lawn continue <strong>to</strong> grow taller than<br />

recommended height <strong>for</strong> newly established lawn.<br />

<strong>Grass</strong>es such as Kentucky bluegrass and Tall fescue cannot be mowed <strong>to</strong>o low (below 1.5<br />

- 2 inches) because they do not have enough leaf surfaces <strong>to</strong> support the plants. The<br />

recommended mowing height <strong>for</strong> Kentucky blue grass and perennial ryegrass should be<br />

at the height of 2”- 3”and tall fescue 2.5” - 3.5” from the ground level. Always remember<br />

<strong>to</strong> keep your mower blade sharp <strong>to</strong> avoid injury <strong>to</strong> young plants or damage <strong>to</strong> the turf<br />

grass. At a 2-inch mowing height the grass needs mowing be<strong>for</strong>e it reaches 3 inches that<br />

is well established lawn. Weekly mowing is usually enough <strong>to</strong> maintain the 2-inch<br />

mowing height during growing season. Do not let lawn grasses become over grown<br />

be<strong>for</strong>e mowing and always follow recommended mowing height & frequency of mowing.<br />

7


Prior <strong>to</strong> mowing always make a point <strong>to</strong> walk over the lawn area and check if there are<br />

s<strong>to</strong>nes, wires and other debris that could be hazard <strong>to</strong> opera<strong>to</strong>r and mower machine.<br />

Remember always that “Timely mowing is necessary <strong>for</strong> quality turf-grass and rule of<br />

thumb is <strong>to</strong> mow enough that you never remove more than one-third of the leaf area per<br />

mowing”<br />

The type of mower depends on the size of the lawn being planned. For a smaller lawn<br />

area, simple mowers such as push reel mower should work. However <strong>for</strong> the medium and<br />

larger area of lawn grass, power rotary mower and riding mower with powerful engine is<br />

ideal. An important aspect while buying a lawn mower is simplicity of its operation.<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>es 11, 12 & 13: Simple push reel mower used <strong>for</strong> mowing small area lawn<br />

10. Use of grass clippings<br />

<strong>Grass</strong> clippings are <strong>to</strong>o valuable <strong>to</strong> waste. Literature review says they contain 4%<br />

nitrogen (N), 0.5% phosphorus (P), 2% potassium (K) and small amounts of other plant<br />

nutrients. The best way <strong>to</strong> handle grass clippings is <strong>to</strong> leave them on the lawn as it<br />

eventually decomposes & recycles nutrients back in<strong>to</strong> the soil. This is recommended<br />

under proper mowing conditions and with the proper mowing, clippings will be short<br />

enough and quickly decompose within the lawn area. However if the grass is <strong>to</strong>o long,<br />

the grass clipping can clump and damage lawn. Under such situation, grass clippings can<br />

be used <strong>for</strong> making compost. It is also important <strong>to</strong> remember that if lawn is diseased<br />

removing grass clipping from lawn area help reduce the level of disease.<br />

11. <strong>Lawn</strong> maintenance<br />

11.1. Weeding<br />

As it is not possible <strong>to</strong> treat or sterilize soil and the local weeds dominate the lawn<br />

grasses during the first establishment year. Manual weeding is there<strong>for</strong>e recommended<br />

during the first year. Usually by the following year, weed is not a major problem.<br />

However presence of White clover (Trifolium repens) plants in the lawn has <strong>to</strong> be<br />

checked. This fodder legume is very aggressive and can spread through its s<strong>to</strong>lons and<br />

seeds, and can dominate whole lawn area in a season time if the whole plant is not<br />

uprooted at the seedling stage.<br />

8


Pho<strong>to</strong>es 14& 15: Young white clover (Trifolium repens) plant & <strong>Lawn</strong> grass dominated by T. repens<br />

11.2. Top-dressing<br />

It is important <strong>to</strong> <strong>to</strong>p dress with light dose of N fertilizer in the <strong>for</strong>m of Urea after every<br />

mowing. The recommended dose of urea is 20-30kg per acre. However, excessive<br />

application of soluble nitrogen <strong>to</strong> the lawn, without any irrigation facilities will damage<br />

the lawn (burn). Always apply inorganic fertilizer N when lawn is wet that is after<br />

irrigation or rain.<br />

11.3. <strong>Lawn</strong> Renovation<br />

<strong>Lawn</strong>s need <strong>to</strong> be renovated periodically <strong>to</strong> encourage vigorous growth. If your lawn is<br />

basically healthy with some bare spots, some minor renovating can make it look like new.<br />

This can be achieved by reseeding or patching it with a piece of sod that is cut <strong>to</strong> fit the<br />

affected area.<br />

12. Cool season grass<br />

There are many cool season grass species that can be used as lawn. Kentucky bluegrass<br />

alone has more than 100 varieties available in the world market and similarly other grass<br />

species also have many varieties. However in Bhutan, only a few particular cool season<br />

grass species were tested and the grass species that per<strong>for</strong>ms well under cool <strong>temperate</strong><br />

environments are presented in Table 2.<br />

Table 2: Cool season grass tested in Bhutan<br />

Common Name Scientific Name Varieties<br />

I. Cool season grasses<br />

Kentucky bluegrass Poa pratensis Broadway, Cocktail, Miracle,<br />

Side kick, Compact<br />

Perennial ryegrass Lolium perenne Jessica, Henrietta & Merci<br />

Tall fescue<br />

Festuca arundinaecea Demeter<br />

Red fescue<br />

Festuca rubra<br />

Creeping bent grass (<strong>for</strong> Agrostis palustris<br />

golf course)<br />

II. Warm season grasses<br />

Carpet grass<br />

Axonopus affinis<br />

9


Pho<strong>to</strong>es 16 & 17: Pure stand lawn of Poa pratensis, varieties Broadway & Compact.<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> 18: Pure lawn of Festuca arundinacea<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> 19:<strong>Lawn</strong> of P.pratensis & L. perenne mixture<br />

12.1. <strong>Lawn</strong> seed sources<br />

Tall fescue and Red fescue can be obtained from the National Feed & Fodder<br />

<strong>Development</strong> Program, Department of Lives<strong>to</strong>ck, Bumthang on demand. Other grass<br />

species are not available in Bhutan at the moment and has <strong>to</strong> be imported. Seed<br />

production of some lawn grass species are under observations at RDC Yusipang and<br />

intermediate results of seed production is presented in Table 3:<br />

Table 3: <strong>Lawn</strong> grass seed production at DRC, Yusipang<br />

Common name Scientific name Variety Seed yield kg/ha<br />

Kentucky bluegrass Poa pratensis 452.5<br />

Perennial ryegrass Lolium perenne Flanker 500.0<br />

-do- -do- Meridian 262.5<br />

-do- -do- Matilda 500.0<br />

-do- -do- Mariner 400.0<br />

Source: Lives<strong>to</strong>ck Sec<strong>to</strong>r, RDC,Yusipang<br />

10


Pho<strong>to</strong>es 20, 21 & 22: Pao pratensis and Lolium perenne & Poa pratensis seed production plot at RDC,<br />

Yusipang<br />

For any technical query or clarifications on the lawn grass development, contact can be<br />

made <strong>to</strong> either of the following addresses:<br />

1. Rangeland and Farming Systems Section<br />

Watershed Management Division<br />

Department of Forests and Park Services<br />

Thimphu<br />

Tel: 323568/323539<br />

2. Lives<strong>to</strong>ck Sec<strong>to</strong>r<br />

RNR Research & <strong>Development</strong> Centre,<br />

Department of Forests and Park Services,<br />

Yusipang.<br />

Tel: 771 91124<br />

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