Celebrate Heritage! Hidden Retreat The Road ... - The Expat Group

Penang
June - July 2013
Where World Cultures and History Come Alive
ISSN 2289-358X
06
Celebrate Heritage!
George Town Festival 2013 Kicks Off
Hidden Retreat
A Relaxing Getaway to Rebak Island
The Road Less Travelled
Head for Penang’s South Side

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hi there!
A
s we push forward into our second year of publishing Penang
International, we continue to see new opportunities for residents
and visitors, and find that we ourselves learn a little more about
this fascinating island with each issue of the magazine we
produce.
Whether at the events we regularly host or in the pursuit of
stories and interviews for the magazine, our staff discover more
and more what makes Penang such an appealing place. Of
course, heritage plays an important part and this is the month
that the island takes extra notice, as George Town hosts a festival
honouring its selection as an UNESCO World Heritage City five
years ago. We sit down with the festival’s indefatigable organiser,
Joe Sidek, and find out what inspires him in his involvement in
what has become a globally known event, drawing talent and
creativity from corners both near and far. This year, the George
Town Festival is being held from 7 June to 7 July and promises
to be a most enjoyable event for locals and tourists alike.
And speaking of events, another Mingle is being held in
partnership with the International Women’s Association. The
gathering will have taken place already by the time this issue has
gone to print, but as always, to learn more about our popular
events, simply visit our website at www.expatgomalaysia.com.
To get information specifically on the Penang Mingle – when,
where, and more – visit www.mingle.expatgomalaysia.com/
penang-mingle. These Mingles, a counterpart of the very
popular Expat Mingles we hold in KL every month, feature a
free flow of beer and delicious finger food, plus the opportunity
to, as the name suggests, mingle with interesting people. A wine
option is also available for those who would prefer it.
Also in this issue of Penang International, we explore the less-visited
south of the island, take a getaway trip to nearby Rebak Island,
talk with a couple of expats who have made Penang their home,
experience Hanoi, Vietnam through the eyes of an itinerant
street vendor, and even take to the road with a look at the
Penang chapter of a vintage car club.
As always, whether you’re visiting the Pearl of the Orient, are
a fresh arrival, or have long since made Penang your home, we
hope you enjoy your time here, and we thank you for making
Penang International part of your experience.
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Penang International 3

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ISSN 2289-358X
06
contents
14
20 26 18
Around Penang
09 Notes from the Island: The Age-old Problem of
Heritage
10 Events
12 Penang People
22 What’s Hot in Penang?
28 Langkawi: The Jewel of Kedah | The Untold Story
37 Exploring Straits Quay
41 Dining
42 Map and Attractions
June - July 2013
Where World Cultures and History Come Alive
Penang
Celebrate Heritage!
George Town Festival 2013 Kicks Off
Hidden Retreat
A Relaxing Getaway to Rebak Island
The Road Less Travelled
Head for Penang’s South Side
Cover:
Penang Flaming to the Top
by Wong Toong Sin
Features
14 Being Inspired
16 Off the Beaten Path
18 Rebak: Langkawi’s Secret Haven
20 Cultural Fusion
24 Finding Your Wheels
26 Snow on the Streets of Hanoi
32 George Town Festival 2013
Penang International 5

6 Penang International

Penang International 7

PHOTOS: PETER HO
The IWA welcomes
its newest
member country
RUSSIA
8 Penang International

Notes from the Island
You will probably bump into Frances around George Town,
so do stop and say hello or drop her a virtual greeting by
emailing her on frances@theexpatgroup.com.
The Age-old
Problem of Heritage
THIS JULY MARKS the fifth anniversary
of the granting of World Heritage status to
the city of George Town. It will be marked,
as part of the George Town Festival, with
a three-day celebration of the dazzling
multicultural heritage of the city and its
diverse communities.
During the last half decade, Penang has
changed enormously, not just in terms of
its outward appearance but also its zeitgeist.
It’s a happening, edgy place, with new
artisan cafés springing up like mushrooms,
boutique hotels emerging like butterflies,
imaginative events bursting forth, and artists
of all kinds flocking in by the dozen. It’s
on the fast track to becoming a culturally
creative city, a potential hot house of talent
and inventiveness, which creates wealth
and opportunity.
Of course, much within the heritage zone
has changed. I still can remember the
shabby shutters, the peeling paint, the
decaying limestone walls, and the feeling
of neglect. In some parts of the town, trees
even grew out of abandoned shophouses,
giving George Town the surreal beauty of
an abandoned city. Now you cannot walk
down most of the streets without scenting
the freshly applied lime wash or tripping
over the paraphernalia of a contractor.
Though many of the renovations are
sympathetic and high quality, something
of the old George Town has inevitably
been lost.
Families who have lived here for
generations have been edged out. This is a
process which has been taking place over
many years, ever since the abolition of rent
controls made George Town an increasingly
expensive city to live in. Nowadays
however, many of the old communities,
the intangible heritage of George Town, are
under some degree of threat because the
streets where they live must be preserved
and restored as well as being increasingly
expensive.
Intangible heritage is the DNA of an old
city. It includes the old trades of the lantern
maker, paper effigy maker for funerals,
rattan weaver, joss stick maker, songkat
(traditional hats) maker, signboard engraver,
as well as those who make traditional
food as turtle-shaped biscuits for Taoist
festivities, popiah skins (the wraps that
encase spring rolls). It’s vital to preserve this
heritage, because this is what gives a city its
vibrancy and its cultural relevance. Without
intangible heritage, any city becomes a
sterile theme park, a piece of the past
preserved in formaldehyde, as dead as the
dodo is extinct.
Some parts of George Town’s heritage
are considered less desirable than others,
of course. There are many swiftlet farms
housed in heritage shophouses that make
the highly valued bird’s nest soup, and
while some residents feel that the proximity
of the birds is less than desirable for health
reasons, this sort of farming is arguably
part of Penang’s heritage. Opium, gangsters,
and prostitutes were also part of the old
social fabric of the old city, though they are
not obvious nowadays within the heritage
zone. Without a thorough understanding
and ongoing debate on intangible heritage,
George Town risks cherry-picking the pretty
parts of its history and glossing over the
more difficult issues.
Much of the heritage problem is
compounded by the seemingly endless
rise in Penang property prices which is
often, ironically, is fuelled by wealthy
Singaporeans and Hong Kongites who,
having torn down their own heritage in
the service of modernisation and profit,
now seek to own a piece of Penang’s. Many
Europeans have also bought properties
and done them up exquisitely as private
residences and boutique hotels. These new
creations, many of which are remarkably
beautiful, don’t preserve heritage as much
as they re-interpret it, but without making
George Town either a theme park or a
museum piece, this is perhaps one of the
main ways in which the structural heritage
can be preserved.
Another difficult issue of heritage is that the
buildings outside the heritage zone are not
protected, and are being allowed to fall into
disrepair. Traditional kampungs and fishing
villages are worthy of as much protection as
city streets. While there are people who care
about these communities, there needs to be
many more standing against their wholesale
destruction in the name of yet another
faceless edifice of concrete. Ironically, many
of these new buildings will never be fully
occupied as quite a few of the apartments
are bought for investment, rather than
residential, purposes.
On the other hand, looking back at Penang’s
entrepreneurial past as well as its habit of
welcoming the foreign and the new, we
do see a pattern of change and adaptability
which must be balanced against the need to
freeze the past in one particular moment in
time. When archaeologists of the future dig
up George Town in two or three millennia,
they will find more than one city. There
will be the initial layer of Francis Light’s
town, then the rise of the shophouses and
the artisans, and then the conservation and
gentrification of our own time.
What layers will follow is not for us to
know, but by preserving as much as we can
as wisely as we can, we can perhaps insure
that the rich and diverse echoes of the
voices from the past may be heard by future
generations.
Penang International 9

events
a gigantic bamboo installation to drama,
open houses, and community celebrations,
there is something here for everybody. Visit
http://georgetownfestival.com for more
details.
emergence of dynamic new talent. But it
isn’t just about food: expect waiter races,
a bed making contest, and a barrista
challenge as well. Entry costs RM3 and the
event takes place at Straits Quay Convention
Centre, Jalan Seri Tanjong Pinang, Tanjong
Tokong Penang.
1-15 June
Penang Durian Festival
You’ll have to go out of George Town
to sample the new season of this King of
Fruits. Many of the durian orchards are
located on the other side of the island, in
the Balik Pulau area. Durian aficionados like
to taste the different varieties of the fruits,
enjoying them raw or juiced.
1-8 June
Broken
Bridges
This home-grown,
Broadway style
musical is set
in 1950s Ipoh
and will be on
at 8.30pm (3pm
on 2 June) at
PenangPac, Straits
Quay, Jalan Seri
Tanjong Tokong, Penang, transferring from
KL where it performed to audiences at the
end of May. Tickets costs from RM40-150,
and are available by calling the box office
on 04.899 1722. Visit www.klpac.org for
details.
7
June-7 July
George Town Festival
In conjunction with George Town
World Heritage Day, this month long
celebration draws performers from all over
the world to create a rich kaleidoscope of
cultural, theatrical, musical, and artistic
performances. From secret gardens, men
in tutus, kitten walls, a kite festival, and
8-9 June
Dragon Boat Racing
An essential part of Penang’s
sporting calendar, the annual Dragon Boat
races will be held at the Teluk Bahang
Dam for a weekend of drum-thumping,
strength-displaying fun! Races run from
9am till 5pm each day, and team from all
over Southeast Asia have competed to get
the chance to take part.
8
June
Super
Stylish
Shopping
Super Stylish
Shopping events
offer a selection of
beautiful clothes,
jewellery, gifts,
and household items that are not normally
available in Penang. This is the last event
before the summer holiday, with the
emphasis on lightweight presents to take
to friends overseas. The event runs from
10am-4pm at the E&O Hotel (Function
Room 1).
June
Battle of the Chefs
13-15
The chefs are back for
another year and promise a contest that
will be “live and hot”, and the heritage
theme means that 1,000 of Malaysia’s best
chefs will have to incorporate some native
ingredients and spices into their amazing
creations. The battle not only showcases
Penang’s delicious food but fosters the
14
June
Wine Tasting with
American Food
Take up the opportunity to taste five glasses
of Californian wine that are paired with
some exquisite food at The Little Wine
Bar, a restaurant known for both its food
and beverages. The evening costs RM98
per person and bookings can be made via
info@thatlittlewinebar.com. The restaurant
is located on Jalan Chow Thye.
19
June
Green Drinks
Green
Drinks is a chance
for people to get
together and talk
about how to make
their lifestyles
greener, and runs
from 6pm at Five
27, Straits Quay,
Tanjong Tokong. Visit www.greendrinks.
org/--/Penang for more details.
26
June 11-30
IWA Spring into
Summer Lunch
Join the International Womens Association
at the Lone Pine Hotel for their annual
Summer Lunch, which starts at 11.30am
and promises lovely food and lively
company. Contact Penny at the IWA office
(04.898 2540) or email info@iwa-penang.
info.
28
June
Blind White Wine
Tasting
How good is your palate? Come and find
out your strengths and weakness at a blind
wine tasting evening held at That Little Wine
Bar on Jalan Chow Thye. Participants will
10 Penang International

Japanese event that celebrates a traditional
dance form with performances and
lively drum performances to welcome
the homecoming of ancestral spirits. The
carnival-like atmosphere at the Esplanade
will be made ever merrier by stalls selling
a variety of local and Japanese food,
firework displays, Japanese souvenirs, lively
performances, and games. The event starts at
5pm and runs until 11pm.
get to try five different quality white wines
from the old world and new world, and the
sommelier will help tasters pick out and
describe the differences and similarities.
Tapas will be served alongside the drinks,
and the evening costs RM98 per person.
Book via info@thatlittlewinebar.com.
11
July from 10 am onwards
IWA Coffee Morning
Head to the IWA Clubhouse
for the ladies’ coffee morning, which starts
at 10am and offers attendees the chance to
meet and mingle with friends old and new.
Contact Penny at the IWA office (04.898
2540) or email info@iwa-penang.info for
more information.
20
July
Penang Bon Odori
Festival
A traditional and merry evening is had
by all at the annual Bon Odori Festival, a
20
July
Kitchen 101:
Cooking with water,
oil and butter
Veggies and meats – when is it better to
cook with water, when with oil and when
with butter, for health as well as taste
reasons? Chef Tommes is Penang’s resident
expert on all this cooking, and this morning
lesson (10.30am-12pm) allows him to
explain about the chemistry of the kitchen
and demonstrate the best methods to
prepare your meal. The lesson costs RM100
per person, payable in advance, and takes
place at That Little Wine Bar, Jalan Chow
Thye. Book via info@thatlittlewinebar.com
July
St Anne’s Festival
22-30
The Church of St. Anne in
Bukit Mertajam plays host to one of the
largest Catholic celebrations in Malaysia,
which brings in pilgrims from overseas
as well as local worshippers. During the
ten days, there will be different masses
and prayers highlighting important causes
including youth, education, and family.
The highlight of the Novena is a procession
commencing on the 30 July at 9pm.
25-26 July
Bread Baking Class
In this two-morning
workshop, Chef Tommes will be showing
eager bakers how to bake perfect version
of several different kinds of bread (rolls,
focaccia, pretzels, and more). Attendees get
to make the bread themselves, including
letting the dough prove overnight. The
course runs each day from 9am-12.30pm
and costs RM200 per person, payable in
advance, and takes place at That Little Wine
Bar, Jalan Chow Thye. Book via info@
thatlittlewinebar.com
App Store | Google Play
Penang International 11

penang people
In Their Own Words...
We came to Malaysia originally for John’s work and we lived in Melaka for two years in the
early years of the millenium. When we wanted to take early retirement and set up a business
here, we choose Penang. That was three years ago and we feel very much at home here.
We love Malaysia for its climate and ambience, the food and the friendly people, and the
relaxed lifestyle we enjoy here. As designers, nature is our greatest inspiration, and there is
nature in abundance in Penang.
Penang is a treasure house for designers; there’s so much inspiration here, it’s like a museum
just to walk the streets. The heritage buildings and art of George Town, the beach, and the
forests are fabulous. We love the fact that you have modern shopping centres but you can
also dip into nature so easily. It’s also so friendly and pretty safe too, as long as you take the
normal precautions you would take in any city, anywhere in the world. The only thing we’re
not so keen on is the haze, but we hope that will change one day.
When we walk on the beach, we look out for interesting things – piece of shell, flotsam, and
jetsam – that we can make into our artworks. When we walk in the forest, we find interesting
forms, twigs, leaves, and berries which we use in our designs. It’s never boring to look at
things in Penang.
John and Wilma Bunk
John and Wilma Bunk are a Dutch couple
who live in Batu Ferringhi, Penang with the
youngest of their four children. You can catch
up with them at various Penang
functions or fi nd them on the web at
www.jewelartistic.com.
Wilma does most of the fine design of our pendants and earrings while John creates the
incredibly fine filigree wire which supports them. Wilma often starts with a piece of shell of
mother-of-pearl onto which she glues her intricate designs. We strengthen the shell with a
laminate so that you can even drop it or shower in it and do no damage to the jewellery.
We are busy with many things but spend most of our time designing jewels, (under name
the Willemina) and you can buy them in the heritage center of George Town (Armenian
street), in several hotels in Batu Ferringhi, and now in Bran et Daguet in Straits Quay. The
jewellery is all one-of-a-kind, and all handmade. We hope they will be heirlooms of the
future; we’ve certainly made them to last!
We love the hawker stalls but we also enjoy our local cafés in Batu Ferringhi, such as Bora
Bora or Beach café which has good meals and nice coconuts, and a view over water sports.
We go to Five27, at Straits Quay, for a taste of delicious Nordic inspired food with no
MSG. We also love the Ferringhi Garden Restaurant (Batu Ferringhi) which has a chic and
luxurious ambience in a gorgeous garden atmosphere.
We don’t not own property here – we like to be free and we change houses every few years.
It is easier for us to rent, and now we live in an apartment in Batu Ferringhi.
Like most people, we have a mixture of expats and locals as friends. We consider ourselves
to be lucky to live in Penang but we do miss our children and family back home from time
to time.
12 Penang International

Many expats choose to make Penang their home for a variety of reasons. Here, we
give them the chance to talk about what brought them to this charming island and
why they have chosen to stay.
Penang’s emerging and vibrant creative scene was the main draw card for my husband and
I when we were deciding where to locate ourselves in Southeast Asia. We had cruised our
boat from New Zealand to Australia through Indonesia and spent some time in Thailand, but
we felt that Penang offered the best, inspirational atmosphere with its historic architecture
and unique cultural mix. This is important, as I am now painting full-time and St-John has
returned to his writing. The biggest decision we made was to place our much loved Grand
Banks Heritage Trawler, “Shadow Trader”, on the market so that we could move ashore and
transition from our original “sea change” back to a “tree change”.
Malaysia offers variety and affordability with extremely friendly people. I have had the
pleasure of meeting and collaborating with a number of art studios in both Langkawi and
Penang and painted alongside local Malaysian and expat artists. I am currently painting at
the TAES art studio at Straits Quay, where I rung workshops in exchange for space to paint.
Already a month has passed and our hope is to settle in Penang full time as soon as we have
sold our boat.
Elspeth McEachern
Elspeth McEachern lives with her husband,
St-John, on board their boat at Straits Quay
Marina. You can view her work – and her
new paintings about Penang - at her website
www.galyfreae.com.
For many years, Penang held a special place in my memory as an island full of character and
old world charm. I backpacked through Southeast Asia when I was in my twenties and vividly
remember the distinctive Chinese shop-house architecture, the food, and the friendliness of
its people. I never imagined on the day I looked out at the yachts in the old Royal Penang
Yacht Club marina that I would return to Penang on a boat. Since that time, Penang has
changed significantly, with the exception of old George Town, where UNESCO has helped
save a precious piece of history.
As I have lived on the sea for the past six years, the biggest changes for me are associated
with the coast and waters around of Penang. Where it was once clear, the sea is now murky.
There has been wasteful over-fishing, thoughtless pollution, the destruction of natural
habitats of turtles and otters, and an alarming increase of box jelly fish and stingers, of which
turtles are their natural predator. On land, the massive boom in property development has
resulted in obscuring Penang’s magnificent mountain vista but, thankfully, the forest remains
to offer cool breeze and fresh air.
Penang offers so much to the senses, but, as a visual artist, the image of Penang which always
comes to mind is that of a brief instant when an old man opened the upstairs shutters of a
heritage shop-house in a winding back street of old George Town. The cultural vibrancy, its
blend of cultures, add color and excitement to the island, while you really pass up on the
wonderful array of food. There is a sense of artistic emergence that I haven’t found anywhere
else in Malaysia.
Penang is the sort of place that offers just about anything for any taste but for me, the most
pleasurable part of Penang is the old section of George Town. To walk the narrow back
streets, where life continues as if untouched by time, is a must, as is taking in the colonial
architecture and temples and dipping into the past at the many private and state museums.
Both St-John and I get enormous pleasure from eating at the hawker food courts. While there
are plenty of good restaurants to choose from, we tend to like the vibrancy and activity that
hawker food courts offer, and you get to see your food being prepared as you wait. Our
favorite food courts are the CF in Georgetown and a few in Tanjung Tokong. There is also a
fabulous Yum Cha coffee house just near Campbell House in Campbell Street. For a relaxed
atmosphere, we go to Flavors of India.
Penang International 13

events
I Musici
Being Inspired
In the fi ve years since its inception, the George Town Festival
has grown from a wild ambition to a globally-acclaimed
extravaganza, and one that organiser Joe Sidek should be
immensely proud. Sarah Rees catches up with him to talk
inspiration, Indonesian bamboo, and what is coming for 2013.
Bridges & Kaki Lima
THEORETICALLY, IT SHOULD never have
been possible. Held on a small tropical
island, organised by a factory manager,
and relying on volunteers, interns, and the
power of the internet, the inaugural George
Town Festival (GTF) should never have
worked. Throw into the mix that he had just
six weeks to make it a reality and you could
confidently assume that festival organiser
Joe Sidek was either naïve or foolish when
he took on the challenge in 2010.
Meet the Man
He is neither, it turns out. Enthusiastic,
passionate, and bursting with positivity,
Joe Sidek must be one of the few men who
could make the impossible happen. Against
the odds and in a crazily limited time frame,
that first festival was a huge success and Joe
has continued to raise the bar each year,
attracting international and local artists,
performers, and talents to George Town for
the month-long arts and culture festival that
marks the anniversary of the historic centre
earning UNESCO World Heritage Status.
“I love the challenge,” Joe assures me. “My
family think I am crazy, but what better job
is there? I get to meet inspiring people, I get
to pick projects I am interested in, and I get
to learn so much!”
Joe’s interest in the arts is as old as he is:
he yearned to go to art college as a student
but studied Town Planning to please his
father, subsequently settling for a life of
variety, from landscape gardening in the
US to organising fashion shows, running
an agency, owning a factory and, as he
enters his fifties, organising the hottest
contemporary arts festival in the country.
Old and New
The word contemporary shouldn’t be
misleading – at the heart of the GTF is
a commitment to the traditional arts,
presented in whatever form can engage
the modern audience. Joe is inspired by
traditional skills and crafts, all too aware
that if these historical practises are not
celebrated, they will be lost forever.
“I have organised something this year
called Intriguing Instruments,” he says, by way
of an explanation. “I invited musicians
from all over the region who play curious
traditional instruments to bring them to the
Victoria Street bazaar. How interesting will
that be? People will be able to listen, and be
interested by these strange instruments, and
they will be able to learn about something
different!”
Pleasure for the Public
The people are a key consideration for Joe
and his team, and not just for financial
purposes. Joe is determined that art and
theatre should be accessible and available
to the masses, not the preserve of the elite
or the educated. “I don’t want
people to be intimidated by
art,” Joes says numerous times
during the interview, “the
masses can feel art too; it’s not
only for a select few.”
In line with this, much of the
2013 festival will take place
in public spaces – from a
dance piece in the street to the
Victoria Street bazaar, where
old houses will be opened
up for film screenings and
Heritage Celebrations
exhibitions. There is even an installation
trail to follow, with public spaces being
transformed into “secret gardens”. “Oh I
love the Secret Gardens project,” gushes Joe,
fairly bobbing with glee. “We are giving
these public spaces back to the community,
making them beautiful.”
Another project that he loves is also the
one that has caused him the biggest
logistical headache – further evidence of
Joe’s unfailing positivity and belief. For
Joko Avianto’s Theatre of Ships, an Indonesian
installation artist will build a large sculpture
purely of bamboo outside the town hall.
“Not everyone thought it was a good idea,”
concedes Joe, “but it draws attention to the
space and the history of the building, plus
it’s just spectacular!”
Aside from convincing the financial backers
that it was a worthwhile project, Joe had
to cope with organising the shipment of
3,000 pieces of bamboo to Penang, and for
all the necessary equipment and man power
to be available to build the structure, which
will remain in place for a whole month.
14 Penang International

Joe Sidek
“I always feel positive,” stresses Joe, after
outlining the alarming logistics of the Theatre
of Ships project. “I’m stubborn! And it will
be inspirational! That’s what I want to do, I
want to inspire people!”
George Town Allure
It always comes back to the people, and
perhaps it is the people that have made this
ambitious and unlikely festival not only
survive, but succeed and blossom over the
years. “I had over 200 proposals for people
wanting to be a part of the festival this
year,” Joe says, shaking his head in awe,
“and they are still coming in! I went to
Japan and had hundreds of artists wanting
to talk to me about it. I am already talking
with artists and performers who can’t
come this year, but want to come in 2014
or 2015!”
While the international artists bring their
talents, the local people are instrumental
too, supporting the festival and allowing it
to thrive in the city they call home. “The
people of Penang are so brave,” remarks Joe.
“They take ownership of their home, even if
they weren’t born in Penang. As soon as you
arrive, it becomes your home.”
Penangites’ pride in their heartland will
be bolstered further come June when the
curtain rises on the 2013 GTF and the city
fizzes with creativity: theatre performances,
art exhibitions, film screenings, concerts,
installation, street theatre, and kite displays
are just a few of the exciting events planned.
“Why did they all come to this island no
one has heard of?” asks Joe rhetorically,
shaking his head delightedly when I
enquire how such a young festival is
attracting international talent. “No idea. I
should have asked them!”
Whatever the reason, the world is coming,
and this small island is set to be transformed
by a cultural, artistic celebration like no
other that will inspire, astound, and delight.
“Come and share Penang,” Joe urges, “just
come and share.”
HIGHLIGHTS
I Musici
7 June; Dewan Sri Pinang, RM20-100
I Musici carry the title of oldest
chamber music group in Italy, and
they will be bringing their beautiful
sounds to George Town for the festival.
Audience members should listen out
for the group’s contemplative version of
Antonio Vivaldi’s Four Seasons, a CD of
which has already sold 25 million copies
worldwide.
Heritage Celebrations
6-7 July; various George Town streets
This 2-day long celebration marks the
anniversary of the UNESCO World
Heritage status being earned by the city.
Expect traditional arts, food, craft, and
events to take to the streets around the
historic centre.
Taking Off
8 June; Esplanade
Kites will be the focus down at the
Esplanade, as master kiters are joined by
members of the ASEAN Kite Council for
a stunning display of kites and crafts. A
performance by a percussion group is
just one of the planned events.
Secret Gardens of Earthly Delights
7 June-7 July; various gardens around
George Town
Ten artists, ten sites, and ten gardens
come together for this unique installation
project that sees gardeners and landscape
artists teaming up for a presentation of
earthly delights. Visit the festival website
for details of the locations.
Obscura
21-30 June; various venues
This new photography festival hopes
to engage the public in photography
through a series of exhibitions, talks,
and forums that will bring together
amateur and professional photographers.
International professionals taking part
include American Maggie Steber (who
worked with the Smithsonian and
National Geographic) and Ian Teh from
London (Time and Newsweek).
Bridges & Kaki Lima
29 June; Victoria Street (starting from Lorong
Lumut)
Sutra
Local and regional dancers have joined
to create this contemporary dance piece
that revitalises the tradition of street
performance by using the streets, bridges,
and kaki lima (five-foot ways) of George
Town as inspiration and a stage.
Sutra
29-30 June; Dewan Sri Pinang, RM20-100
Flemish/Moroccan choreographer Sidi
Larbi Cherkaoui has created a brand-new
dance piece in collaboration with Turner
Prize-winning artist Antony Gormley that
features 17 Shaolin monks and will be
accompanied by music created by Polish
composer Szymon Brzóska.
Art @ Whiteaways
7 June-7 July; Whiteaways Arcade, Beach Street,
Sekeping Victoria, Victoria Street, Fort Cornwallis
Valentine Willie, a top contemporary art
collector and curator, will select a present
a selection of works from some of the
top regional talents including Rebecca
Wilkinson and Chan Kok Hooi from
Malaysia, and Agus Baqul Purnomo from
Indonesia.
Pro Musica Gala Concert
6 July; Dewan Sri Pinang
Returning to the festival for another year
is the Pro Musica Gala, with this year’s
instalment bringing the international opera
talents of Julie Mossay (soprano), Ines
Madeira (mezzo soprano), Enrico Casari
(tenor), and Laurent Kubla (bass/baritone).
They will perform pieces from Mozart,
Handel, and Bizet among others.
The George Town Festival 2013 runs from
7 June-7 July. For more events or information, visit
www.georgetownfestival.com.
Penang International 15

exploring penang
Off the Beaten Path
Don’t just stick to the well-worn routes of George Town when exploring Penang: Kat Fatland
discovers the treats to be enjoyed on the less-visited southern half of the island.
UNLIKE THE FAIR MAJORITY of expats
in Penang, who choose to live near George
Town or Batu Ferringhi, my partner and I
reside on the south side of the island, in
Bayan Lepas. The location was chosen for
work reasons but, over the last year or so,
we’ve both found ourselves charmed by the
experiences unique to our area.
Away from the more touristy areas of
Penang, the south has much to offer those
willing to look. From unconventional
temples and village views to delicious
local and international fare, a trip off the
beaten path to the island’s south makes for
a wonderful weekend outing, and may just
leave you coming back for more.
Sam Poh Footprint Temple
On the southeastern corner of Penang
island, rather obscured from view behind
one of the island’s most ambitious new
housing development projects, there rests
a very special rock. Surrounded by a small
Chinese temple, the rock bears an almost
1m-long imprint that Chinese locals believe
is an ancient footprint of Captain
Zheng He, a legendary 15thcentury
explorer and adventurer
from China’s Yunnan province.
With his fleet of ships, Zheng He
(whose local name is Sam Poh)
is said to have conquered pirates,
waged wars, and made China’s
presence known all over Asia,
as far as the holy city of Mecca.
As the footprint would suggest,
the man was said to be of giant
proportions. Although he covered
much ground during his seven
expeditions, the question of
whether he was ever actually in
Penang remains unanswered: the footprint
seems to be symbolic proof enough for
some.
However, Indian Penangites believe this
to be the footprint of Hanuman, an
Indian deity legendary for his role in
the Ramayana, one of India’s great epic
stories. In the tale, King Rama’s wife Sita
is abducted by the demon king, Ravana.
During his search, he enlists the help of
Hanuman, but their journey is seemingly
put to an end upon encountering the
uncrossable sea until Hanuman remembers
that, long ago, the god Shiva gave him the
power to jump over the ocean. Upon his
recollection, Hanuman leaps over the sea
and eventually saves the queen, and the
footprint is a mark of Hanuman’s great leap.
Malay Penangites believe yet another story:
that this is the footprint of the terrible
Gedembai, a giant who walked the forests
of Penang hundreds of years ago, wreaking
havoc on the local population. One day, as
a villager was chopping timber, a piece of
wood hit his blade the wrong way and went
flying into the air. Thinking it was another
giant, Gedembai ran away terrified, leaving
only his giant footprints.
16 Penang International

The footprint may not be the most visually
spectacular sight on the island, but the
multiple legends behind its origins, which
represent each of Malaysia’s three distinct
cultural traditions, are reason enough to
take a drive to this sacred site.
Driving the Southern Coast
With its dense, largely uninhabited patches
of jungle and the small kampung villages
lining the road, here on the southernmost
part of the island Gurney Drive feels worlds,
if not years, away.
There are a few main roads in the area, and
two that are particularly worth exploring.
The first is road P10, which takes visitors
from the Sam Poh Temple straight into the
jungle towards the sea. The road is dotted
here and there with traditional
Malay stilted houses, populated with
families enjoying the cool shade of
the jungle canopy above them while
cows graze in beds of flowers and
villagers passing on their bikes. Just
a handful of footpaths extend from
the road itself, making the area
traversable for those adventurous
enough to head into the jungle
itself.
The second is road is P224, which
runs parallel to the southern coast
of Penang. The road takes visitors
past several small fishing villages facing
the coast. Drivers can explore the villages
either by car or by parking and walking.
Fresh fish restaurants situated right on the
water can be found in every village, a few
of which have gained a kind of cult status
among Penangites willing to take the drive
south. Several tiny beaches line the coast,
and are often frequented by villagers who
swim near its shores in their shorts and
shirts, with women in their baju melayus.
Stopping towards the end of the road for a
picnic or a drink on the beach and soaking
in the peaceful atmosphere of the fishing
villages is a singular pleasure.
Hidden Gems in Bayan Lepas
Just twenty minutes’ drive from the centre
of George Town, Bayan Lepas is positioned
to be “the next big thing” in Penang, with
two massive developments underway: The
Light and Penang World City. Thanks to its
free trade zone status, the area has become
fairly international and boasts a population
of around 150,000.
The area is sure to develop further in the
coming years but, for now, Bayan Lepas
remains a peaceful, very walkable part of
the island. There are plenty of green spaces
and stretches of coastline to enjoy and
while the main draw may be Queensbay
mall, there are a few hidden gems worth
a visit.
One of my favourite secret hideouts in the
area is a fresh fish stall, or ikan bakar, just a
block away from the mall. Nestled between
two giant apartment complexes along the
Bayan Lepas coastline, Hammer Bay serves
up giant portions of fresh fish any way you
want it, including barbequed in a banana
leaf, sauteed with ginger and garlic, or with
lemongrass. They serve some of the best
seafood Tom Yam I’ve had anywhere as well
as fried rice, and freshly-squeezed juice, all
for a dirt-cheap price.
But the food is just one of the wonderful
aspects at this fish stall. Located right on
the coast, visitors can enjoy wonderful
views of Pulau Jerejak if they come before
sunset. Given how few non-locals populate
this joint, the servers here are likely to
remember foreign faces when you return,
which only adds to this wonderfully
Malaysian experience.
For a more international flavour, visitors can
head to the Bayan Bay stripmall for some of
the island’s best Japanese food, accompanied
by a fine selection of wines from all over
the world. Vino Vino may look unassuming
from the outside, but the interior of the
cosy restaurant is quite impressive, with
a good-sized bar and entire wall of wine
and fine whiskeys. The menu serves all the
classic Japanese fare for a reasonable price,
including soba noodles in miso broth,
sushi, and sashimi, as well as a few superb
grilled items including beef-wrapped
asparagus and grilled chicken meatballs. It’s
a wonderful place to sit back and relax.
Southern Penang offers visitors another
view of the island that is charming in a
different way to the larger neighbourhoods
up north, and it’s certainly an area worthy
of exploration.
Penang International 17

travel
Rebak: Langkawi’s
Secret Haven
Just off the western coast of Langkawi lies Rebak Island, a 400-acre private island which houses a
fi ve-star resort and a yacht marina. It’s one of the 99 emerald islands that make up the Langkawi
Archipelago, and Frances Wilks sampled the natural beauty of its rainforest and unspoilt beaches.
18 Penang International

“YOU WILL LOVE REBAK,” declared my
brother as soon as I told him about my
proposed trip. He knew the island because
he had sailed there last year when he was
circumnavigating Langkawi, but if you’re
not on a yacht, the way to reach Rebak is by
high-speed launch from Port Langkasuka,
itself a short taxi ride from Langkawi
International Airport.
After 15 exciting minutes of crashing
through the waves of the Senari Straits,
which separate the smaller island from its
larger sister, the launch noses its way into
a secluded inlet. Tucked inside is a yacht
marina – its forest of masts echoing the tall
trees of the surrounding virgin jungles. The
resort itself is short walk away. You take a
deep breath and feel the gentle peace and
pace of an island without traffic.
Relaxing Retreat
Nestling in tree-filled gardens leading to
the beach is the hotel. The guest rooms are
dotted about in low rise wooden vernacular
buildings which softly blend into the
natural environment. Their rustic exterior
gives way to well-appointed, luxurious
interiors with delicate touches of ethnic
culture to make you feel that you’re really
in Asia.
The resort is managed by the Indian-based
company Taj, which places a high premium
on the comfort of the guests. As General
Manager Sandip Mukerjee says “Service is
essential in a five-star resort, guests have
to feel comfortable and welcome in all
circumstances.” They are good at special
events, such as a silver service authentic
Indian dinner I enjoyed on the beach just
a stone’s throw away from a private cabana
overlooking the Andaman Sea which can be
hired for a truly unforgettable meal.
Above all, Rebak is a place where you can
relax. I slept so well there and felt the long
term tiredness that city dwellers accumulate
start to leave me. You get to notice the small
things, such as a monitor crossing the beach
or the first rays of dawn on the coconut tree
outside your window.
As one guest who’d been there for a week
said, “There’s lots going on here but you
can just chill out in perfect surroundings
if you like. Playing a game or two of tennis
and going to the spa takes up most of my
day.” The resort attracts honeymoon couples
for its profoundly romantic setting, but it’s
also very family friendly, and there is much
for children to enjoy and learn about on
the island.
Keeping Busy
Some of the activities available on the
island include bird watching, cookery
lessons, and kayaking as well as nature
walks. The walks are led by an energetic
nature lover whose father was an Ayurvedic
health practitioner, so he was brought up
knowing all the different plants and what
ailments they assist.
“This good for constipation,” he says,
enthusiastically proffering a handful of
leaves. “If you boil this root and use the
water to take a bath, it helps women after
they have delivered a baby.” As I wasn’t
suffering from either condition, I can’t tell
you how effective they are. He takes you
on jungle paths deeply scented by the wild
aromatic plants of the islands, pointing out
the local trees, some of which are extremely
valuable (their exact location a closely
guarded secret). But we never found the
Rebak tree – for which the island is said to
be named. It may, in fact, be mythical.
Mixing with the “Yachties”
One of the things that really makes a stay
at Rebak special is the fact that the yacht
marina is twinned with the hotel. The
“yachties” are encouraged to use the hotel’s
facilities and mix with the guests.
The longer-staying residents of the marina
have developed their own way of life. In the
morning the marina is quiet, except for a
few yachtsmen making the necessary repairs
to their boats. Other parents homeschool
their children. Quite a few families are
sailing around the world and some have
given birth to children in various ports
along the way.
As Jacolette and Joop Adam from South
Africa said, “We set sail around six years
ago with one child, and now we have three.
We’ve managed to work on the internet
while we’ve been away but the children
do need to go to school so we’re heading
home.” Formal schooling is impossible, so
most of the parents use books and webbased
learning programmes to create an
education for these “sailor kids.” There’s a
yoga class, and all are welcome to use the
resort’s launch to go Langkawi for supplies
and a change of scene.
Last year, an artist, Elspeth McEachern, who
was then living at the marina, was invited to
become Artist in Residence at Rebak Island
Resort and she gave lessons for children
in return for studio space. She very much
enjoyed her time there and painted the
wildlife of the island. Now the hunt is on
for a writer-cum-sailor who will give classes
in creative writing for the hotel guests.
All too soon it was time to come back to
the hustle and bustle of Penang, but I think
about Rebak almost every day. Once visited,
Rebak stays in the mind as a place of refuge
and calm, and will draw me back before
too long.
Frances Wilks stayed as a guest of Rebak Island
Resort. For more details, visit www.tajhotels.com/
Leisure/Rebak.
Penang International 19

architecture
Cultural
Fusion
Penang owes its rich culture
and architectural splendor to
the various races that found a
home on the island during its
years as a port. Kat Fatland
admires the diverse styles
and designs these infl uences
brought to her home city’s
architecture.
IN THE 2008 INSCRIPTION jointly
establishing George Town and Melaka as
World Heritage Sites, UNESCO states that
these two towns “constitute a unique
architectural and cultural townscape
without parallel anywhere in East and
Southeast Asia.”
Upon a first read, the statement seems
impossibly bold: after all, there are a
myriad of architecturally interesting cities
all over the region, what could possibly
make Penang and its sister city so special?
The answer, in short, is quite a bit. From
Malay kampungs to Anglo Indian bungalows,
from Chinese shophouses to Colonial-style
churches, Penang’s list of international
influences is all-encompassing. Like much
of its heritage, the island’s architectural
style reflects the serendipitous outcome of
cultures coming together.
People and Penang
Penang’s architectural history could be
said to have truly begun in 1786 when
it became a British trading post. Thanks
in part to founder Francis Light’s good
relations with locals and regional traders,
settlers started moving to the island en
masse, coming from Arabia, Siam, India and
China, Indonesia, and mainland Malaya.
Soon, the city could boast a core group of
permanent residents who began to set up
shop throughout the island.
Penang happened to be in a very unique
position to cater to the settlers’ wishes
to bring with them something of their
homeland. Unlike the surrounding areas,
where systems of government could
implement strictures on foreign or local
architectural influence (in nearby Kedah,
for example, no one could build a house
taller than the Sultan’s palace), Penang
could accommodate a host of diverse
customs. Thus, the Indian traders brought
with them their Anglo-Indian traditions,
the Chinese brought their courtyard
houses, and the Europeans brought their
neoclassicist designs.
Adaptation
Smartly, instead of producing replicas
of buildings from their country of
origin, builders took note of what local
Malay houses had to offer and adapted
accordingly. Perfectly suited for the
tropical climes, the typical Malay house
was constructed largely from timber and
atap. The houses were stilted to provide
ample ventilation to the rooms above, and
a sloping atap roof offered shade over the
verandah. These features, along with the
building materials, were largely borrowed
by other traditions as they went about
building their own abodes.
The Penang bungalow is a particularly
apt example of the blending of many
traditions into one regal household. The
bungalow, derived from the Hindi term
bungla, originally came to the island via
India. There, the bungalow was a simple
four-walled structure made of mud and
later brick with a low, sweeping roof. These
structures were commonly built for the
lower class, while the upper class resided in
the colonial-style pucka houses, characterised
by their flat roofs, a form exemplified in
Penang’s Suffolk house.
When the bungalow reached Penang
however, it lost all low-class connotations.
Here, the buildings were recreated using
Indian brick masonry and Malay-style
timber. The form became popular among
the families of Indian and Arab traders
– the Jawi Peranakans – who chose to
group together their bungalows in typical
Malay kampungs (a term that gave birth
to the English word “compound”). The
Europeans, who also found the form useful,
married the Malay and Indian traditions
with their own traditions, building huge
two-storey bungalows with well-ventilated
stilted verandahs, sweeping rooftops,
20 Penang International

and European porte cochéres. These “Penang
bungalows” can be found all around the
island today.
Lucky Locations
While the Europeans and Jawi Peranakans
gravitated towards the bungalow form, the
Baba Nyonya families, made up of a Chinese
trader with a local wife, preferred to reside
right in the heart of the business district, as
traders often considered the location where
they first got their “big break” to be lucky.
The Baba Nyonya residential shop houses
and dwelling houses are a form all their
own, celebrated throughout Penang and
the region. Whether business or residential,
each shop house shares a few common
characteristics: Each includes an intricately
decorated air vent, commonly featuring the
image of a peony (symbolizing wealth) and
the bat (symbolizing good fortune).
Their façades reflect the time in which they
were made, with simple single-shuttered
second-storey windows representing the
early South Chinese style, while the more
intricately designed triple-arched and
shuttered second-storey windows represent
the later Straits Eclectic phase.
And, of course, there are those wonderful
five-foot walkways. First implemented
in 1826, these public walkways were
soon paved with intricate tiles, which
protected both the walk and the building’s
façade from water damage. The buildings
themselves originally took to the Malay
timber and atap materials, but after a series
of fires, they were soon
replaced with brick.
The Chinese residential shop
house provides a perfect
balance between function
and symbolism. Designed
to utilize every bit of space,
each dwelling house has the
same basic features: a Chinese
screen a few feet back from the doorway to
hold back bad energy, a courtyard providing
ventilation and natural sunlight, a Chinese
altar, and intricately designed doors, often
featuring images of vases (peace and
tranquility) and peaches (longevity). By
the early 20th century, the Straits Chinese
house became popularised. As wealth began
to rise, it was not uncommon to see an
ornately furnished dwelling house set up
against a slum.
Splendid Structures
Perhaps the most materially ornate
houses in Penang, as well as the most
culturally diverse, are the mansions of
Southeast Asia’s richest men. Penang’s
famous green Peranakan Mansion, a
townhouse once owned by Chung Keng
Kooi, the Kapitan China of Perak, features
Cantonese glassworks, Scottish iron gates,
European floors, and a vaguely Venetian
exterior. The Blue Mansion, the foremost
capitalist Cheong Fatt Tze’s most grand
abode, features art nouveau stained glass
windows, Victorian floor tiles, and timber
wall decorations.
Largely built according to the principles of
Feng Shui, the Straits Chinese houses promote
a sense of calm and wellbeing, or good chi,
yet remain incredibly extravagant in design,
signalling to any visitor that no material
possession was out of reach.
Even the places of worship in George Town
come from a diverse blend of traditions.
Penang’s St. George’s Church was built in
the European neoclassical tradition. The
Kapitan Keling Mosque was built in the
north Indian Moghul style. The Acheen
Street mosque marries the colonial, Indian,
and Malay style together, and the Sri
Mariamman temple represents the classical
Dravidian architecture of South India.
The sheer amount of depth to the
architecture found on Penang could make
any enthusiast swoon with delight. The
buildings’ wonderfully diverse designs
make Penang a visual delight enjoyed by
locals, expats, and tourists alike. Like every
cultural element of this intriguing island,
from its food to its local dialect, the city’s
architecture tells a rich historical tale of the
intermingling of traditions, and the fusion
of two worlds into one.
Heritage Houses of Penang by Khoo Salma
Nasution and Halim Berbar provided much of the
material found in this article. I highly recommend this
book to anyone interested in the architectural heritage
of Penang.
Penang International 21

fresh and new
What’s Hot in Penang?
A fresh new feature launches in this issue to chronicle some of the hot new places and happenings in Penang.
Eco Awareness
Networking
The brain child of
green entrepreneur
and former Wall
Street banker, Chen-
Lay Ong, Green Drinks is an opportunity
for people who are interested in exploring
green issues to get together, swap stories, and
encourage each other to make their lifestyles
“greener.” Previous topics of discussion
have included green entrepreneurship and
recycling in Penang.
The next Green Drinks is scheduled for 19
June at 6pm. Check the Green Drinks Penang
webpage for updates: www.greendrinks.org/-
-/Penang
Green Drinks, Five 27, Straits Quay, Tanjong Tokong,
6-8pm
Friends are Welcome
(relatives by appointment)
Penang residents all know the Rainforest
Bakery for its delicious, home-baked bread
and cakes, most of which are baked with
organically sourced ingredients. Jerry and
Jesse, the owner twins, with their school
friend Tristan have opened up a delightful
coffee shop next door to Rainforest and it’s
full of tourists and locals most days.
Their bagels (slightly warmed in a charcoal
oven to order) filled with a choice of bacon
and egg, smoked salmon and cream cheese,
or corned beef and rocket are the best in
George Town and their coffee is pretty good
too. They do a marvellous home-made
yoghurt and museli for breakfast as well.
Mugshot Café, 302 Chulia Street, George Town
So Hungry
When Amelleia Chamin and Rudy Gerard
Chong met in 2008 they never dreamt that
they would become the best of friends and
open an artisan café in George Town. In fact,
Amelleia was planning to become a nun and
Rudy a priest, but now they’re following a
different vocation. Joined by Tommy, their
daschund, who is the step-in pet for those who
are missing their own pooch, they open the
doors to Soo Hongry every day except Monday.
Soo Hongry is a pun on the name of the street
and the fact that people come into the café
absolutely ravenous.
“We’re trying to make a place where people
can come and feel that they’re in the presence
of friends,” says Rudy. “A bit like a village pub
(except that there’s no alcohol) where you can
get simple, home-cooked food.”
Check out the lemon and poppy seed muffins,
the extra jam tarts, and the homemade ginger
beer (made from fresh ginger roots), as well as
the delicious coffee.
Soo Hongry, 29 Lorong Soo Hong, off Armenian Street,
George Town
22 Penang International

Hot Housing Creativity
Imagine a space where you
can draw on the walls, play
games, brainstorm and bounce
out-of-the-box ideas around
and call it work. This is exactly
what Work Palette aims to
provide for creative nomads,
freelancers, tech-preneurs and
just about anyone working in or visiting Penang. The name Work Palette is a
play on artist’s palette and the wooden pallets which have been up-cycled into
furniture, reflecting both the creative vibe of the space and its deep green roots.
This amazingly creative house in Pulau Tikus, where colours abound and
funny thought-provoking notices grace the walls, could change the workingat-home
practice and usher in a flurry of creative synergies. You can sit and
dream here, chat, fly paper darts, work on your computer, hold business
meetings, or just chill out. Monthly memberships begin at RM650 but you
can purchase four hours for just RM23 (including tea and coffee) if you want
to sample the magic.
For more details, www.facebook.com/WorkPalette.
Work Palette, 11 Medan Maktub, Pulau Tikus
Where
Memories are
Made
If you want great
food in a relaxed,
friendly setting
then check out Les
Memoires, at the
junction of Burma
Road and Penang Road. I enjoyed a Caprese Salad,
with three different sorts of tomatoes, mozzarella,
and toasted fennel seeds, followed by a single giant ravioli stuffed with
spinach and ricotta in a sumptuous tomato sauce. Starters include smoked
duck and grilled squid salad and there is selection of mouth watering mains
and yummy desserts on the menu.
Les Memoires is one of the most recent additions to the food scene of Penang
and the elegant fusion of French and Italian food with some Asian accents
should hit exactly the right note with tourists and locals alike. Presided over
by Chef Aames, a Penangite who’s worked in the top hotels of the world, and
his charming mother, Juliana, they serve beer but not wine, so bring your
own (no corkage).
Les Memoires Bistro, Loke Thye Kee Building, 2 Burma Road, Georgetown. Open every day
from 11am-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm.
Victorious
Great Dame
The E&O (the Great
Dame of Penang)
has just opened
a gorgeous new
wing – the Victory
Annex. It comprises several stories of elegant guest
rooms, all of which are beautifully designed and
combine both modern comfort and the heritage for
which the hotel is famous.
There’s also a new set of function rooms and a
ballroom in which the Expat Penang/IWA joint ball
will be held in November. Best of all, though, is the
rooftop swimming pool, where you can catch a tan as
you look out across the Straits.
Visit www.eohotels.com.
Written in
Penang (but
it’s about
Singapore)
There’s
stimulation of
a different kind in the air as 1 June
sees the publication of The Scarlet
Macaw by Penang-based Canadian
author SP Hozy. Set in two time
periods, the Singapore of the 1920s and that of
the present day, it is what is called a “crossover”
novel, containing elements of both literary fiction
and crime. When SP Hozy started writing twenty
years ago, it wasn’t a recognised genre, but now it’s
gaining popularity.
The novel starts when artist Maris Cousins, who has
gone to Singapore to paint, loses her mentor, Peter
Stone. She feels he has been murdered but the police
take little notice and the case is closed. One day,
looking through the trunk that Peter Stone left her,
Maris finds a set of short stories, depicting life in the
Singapore of the 1920s, that begins to shed light on
the mystery.
For more details, visit www.sphozy.com.
Penang International 23

pursuits
Finding
Your
Wheels
Tony Cope, a South African by birth and an Aussie by adoption, arrived in Penang recently for work,
and meeting fellow classic car enthusiasts has been an important part of settling in to the country.
I HAVE BEEN A classic car enthusiast since an early age, having bought my first
old Land Rover when still at school in South Africa and, together with a friend,
starting the first Rover car club in Southern Africa in 1977. In Australia, where I
subsequently moved to, I was very active in a number of British classic car clubs
so, after downsizing the Australian fleet (to a 1959 Rover 105, a 1970 Jensen
Interceptor, and a 2003 Range Rover) in preparation for the move to Penang, I
started to wonder what was the classic car scene was like in Malaysia.
Joining the Club
On my first weekend in Penang in June 2012 I searched the web to find out if there
was a classic car club on the island. The Malaysia Singapore Vintage Car Register
(MSVCR www.msvcr.com) had a northern branch based in Penang, and were
meeting the very next day. After a forty minute drive I turned into street littered
with classics including a Jaguar XK150, E-Type, MG TC, MGA, a TVR, a 1934
Lagonda, a 1955 Bentley, a Mercedes Ponton 220SE convertible, and, in the front
porch of the house, a Rolls Royce Silver Shadow, Triumph TR4a, E-Type V12, Alfa
Spider, BMW 2002tii, and a Lotus Elise. All these delectable cars on one small island!
I was made very welcome by the club members and I joined on the spot – the Club
Secretary Col. Douglas Fox was a bit taken aback to have someone join at their first
meeting! The patron of the club is the Sultan of Kedah who, like the Sultan of Johor,
has an extensive car collection.
I let it be known that I was looking for a classic car, spanning from the 50s to the mid-
70s, preferably of British manufacture and capable of cruising reasonable distances.
Needless to say, the members of the MSVCR were very helpful and, while the number
of classic cars for sale at any one time is relatively low, all sorts of doors were opened
to private collections and other cars that were not for sale but for sale at the right price
– most car enthusiasts have too many cars so a tempting offer is always welcome.
24 Penang International

Cars in the Capital
As there were not many cars in Malaysia up
until the 1970s, and the heat and humidity
took their toll on the older cars, the existing
stock in fairly limited. The keen classic
car enthusiasts in Malaysia tend to import
classic cars or migrate here with their
classic cars and, as the cost of ownership is
generally low, keep them rather than sell.
KL, with its larger population, has more
classic cars than Penang, so my business
trips to KL became extended to encompass
getting lost in a hot and humid city looking
at “very good condition, boss” cars that, in
many cases, were anything but!
To cut a long story short my search for a
classic MG, Triumph, Rover or Lotus was not
progressing fast awhen a red 1994 Rover
216i Cabriolet suddenly popped up on
Mudah.my (Malaysia’s version of eBay) at a
dealer in KL. While not a classic car in the
true sense, it was a very sensible alternative
and a future classic. I automatically assumed
it was a private UK import, probably rusty,
and would not have air-conditioning,
but a call to the dealer the next morning
confirmed it was sold new in KL, did
have air-conditioning, was “in really good
condition boss”, and was still available.
On my next business trip I flew earlier
to KL, inspected the car, agreed to buy it
subject to certain repairs, and collected it
ten days later. After checking all the work
had been done to my satisfaction, I paid
for the car, put the roof up, switched the
air conditioning on, and drove it back to
Penang. The dealer requested l let him know
when I crossed the Penang Bridge which
I did – he was pleased to get my call, and
I am not sure whether he was pleased that
the car had proven itself or that the car was
well away from his dealership!
Club Happenings
Being involved in the MSVCR has been
great, allowing me to make many news
friends, experience so many aspects of
life in Malaysia, and see new parts of the
country on various runs. Most Sundays
we have a breakfast run, meeting at the
Penang Sports Club before we “exercise”
our classics to a scenic spot on the island.
Recently, the breakfast run was to Kedah
state to have breakfast with members
there, and we were afforded a police escort
through Kulim – again, a new experience.
Last year the AGM was in Port Dickson, and
it gave me a chance to see a different part
of Malaysia and to meet a whole raft of
members from Malaysia and Singapore and,
of course, inspect a whole lot of well-loved
classic cars. The gymkana the following day
was a lot of fun!
In November last year the Penang MSVCR
members hosted the “Penang Round the
Island Rally” weekend in conjunction with
the start of the Tiger Rally. Being part of
the organising committee and having our
weekly meetings on the front veranda of
the Penang Club, with a view across the
Straits of Melaka, was another new aspect
of Penang life to me. Events held over the
weekend included a concourse at Straits
Quay, a grand dinner at the E&O Hotel, and
the official start of the Tiger Rally, which
saw a magnificent array of motoring exotica
being flagged off en route to Thailand and
Myanmar.
A few weekends ago the club had a
weekend run to KL via the coastal road
where we seemed to move from one feast
to another – Saturday breakfast at Ipoh, an
expansive lunch at Kuala Selangor, Sunday
breakfast at the Royal Selangor Yacht Club. At
each stop we met more and more MSVCR
members and got to see their cars.
One thing is certain – being involved in the
MSVCR has added another dimension the
great time I am having living in the tropical
paradise of Penang.
For more details on the MSVCR, visit
www.msvcr.com.
Penang International 25

travel
Snow on the Streets of Hanoi
Vietnam may be soaring ahead in tourist numbers, but Janet Nisted offers an insight into the
struggles the Vietnamese poor have to stay afl oat in their developing country.
SEVEN DAYS A WEEK, twelve hours a day,
she sells hats on the footpath of Lo Su Street
in Hanoi’s old quarter. When walking to and
from our boutique hotel in the same street,
we often stop to chat. She tells us about
her seven-year-old son and mischievously
suggests that our eight-year-old daughter
might be a good match. Abandoned
by her husband when her son was two,
she’s determined to give her son a good
education and a bright future. She gave her
name only as Snow.
Street vendors – people selling without a
fixed shop or stall – are an integral part
of the landscape of Hanoi’s old quarter.
Women in conical straw hats, balancing
their quang ganh (twin baskets slung from a
wooden or bamboo pole), are one of the
city’s most enduring images. While tourists
may complain about the overcharging and
grudgingly hand over cash for a photo
holding their quang ganh, they all proudly
post their photos on Facebook. It’s part of
the tourist experience.
Threatened Livelihood
Would the tourists still come if these
women were not there? The Vietnamese
government thinks they will. In the push
for modernisation, the itinerant vendors
are seen as a blot on the landscape, a
symbol of backwardness and disorder. The
government wants to get the street vendors
off the streets.
In 2008 the government imposed a ban
on street vendors in a slew of locations,
including the city’s main streets, public
buildings, and tourist attractions.
Regulations restrict trading between
breakfast and dinner hours. If they stop
for too long in one location, vendors can
be given a Green Ticket – a fine of around
US$2 that represents a whole day’s income
for many. The ban frightens many street
vendors who, like Snow, say
they must sell or starve. Most
vendors carry on regardless,
but live in fear.
Living with Fear
As we chatted to Snow one
afternoon, she suddenly
jerked her head, a panicked
expression on her face.
A green-covered jeep had
pulled up at the kerb five
metres away, and three greenuniformed
heavies spilled
out, truncheons in hand. They
scooped up merchandise
from the footpath into large green sacks,
ignoring the frantic pleas of the vendors.
Snow desperately collected her hats and
threw them wildly into the little shop
behind her. The other vendors raced to do
the same. Once the good are gone, Snow
explains that they have to pay a bribe to
get them back – money that sometimes
represents two days’ takings, devastating for
a single mum like Snow. Over the next hour
or two, the merchandise slowly reappears
on the footpath, like a hermit crab
cautiously re-emerging from its shell when
danger has passed – until the inevitable
next time.
26 Penang International

On a good day, Snow makes about US$6
(100,000 Vietnamese dong) – enough to
pay for food and her son’s schooling. “Any
day that I stay home and do not sell, we
have little money to buy food,” she said.
Hardships of Hanoi
Snow’s story is common. There are about
12,000 street vendors in Hanoi, 90% of
which are from impoverished rural areas.
The majority are women, and often the
main breadwinner. They leave young
children behind in the care of relatives,
returning to visit when they can and when
money permits. Nights in Hanoi are spent
crammed into a tiny room with 30 or 40
other women.
Hanoi’s women are no strangers to
hardship. Mothers and grandmothers
fought side by side with men during both
the revolutionary war against repressive
French colonialism and in the Vietnam War.
Snow’s heritage is endurance, perseverance,
hard work, and a determination to survive.
This heritage is recognised and honoured at
The Women’s Museum on Ly Thuong Kiet
Street. Five floors of displays pay
tribute to the role of Vietnamese
women in modern history. You’ll
see many personal artefacts
and possessions, made more
poignant by the inclusion of
photographs and biographies
of the owners. Audiovisual
presentations tell the stories of
female street vendors, while
a large section highlights the
wartime role of women. A
touching photograph shows
young women cheerfully
carrying supplies along the
Ho Chi Minh trail, with the
caption, “Shortly thereafter they
died heroically.” A ponytail in a glass case
belonged to a young woman – she cut it off
as a memento before losing all her hair to
dioxin poisoning.
Scars of War
On Ma May Street, a surly old woman insists
I buy some strawberries from a basket on
the back of her bicycle. She becomes irate
when I start haggling, and I try to imagine
this tiny woman shooting down American
planes with a shoulder-mounted surface-toair
missile launcher.
A visit to the infamous Hoa Lo Prison (or
“Hanoi Hilton”) gives further insight into
the suffering of the Vietnamese during their
decades-long struggle to throw off French
domination. Women, some as young as 14,
were incarcerated along with the men, often
cruelly wrenched from their small children
and placed into desperate conditions within
its damp, dark walls. Many did not survive.
The death row and solitary confinement
cells are testament to the brutality and
inhumanity of the French oppressors.
Vestiges of French colonialism are evident
in the handful of buildings that are
distinctly French in style. They lend an
old-world charm to Hanoi’s streetscapes
and street vendors ply their trade against
the backdrop of their faded façades. The
Grand Opera House, State Bank of Vietnam,
Presidential Palace, Saint Joseph’s Cathedral,
and the Hotel Metropole are the finer
examples. I wonder if the Vietnamese view
these buildings with the same pleasure as
the tourists?
In Their Shoes
How easy our lives must appear as we
casually sip Da Lat wine in cafés along
Hang Dao Street. It’s not hard to understand
why some street vendors aggressively
try to extract cash from tourists. If we
stood in their shoes, would we maintain
a permanent smile and polite demeanour
despite our fatigue, our financial worries,
and our homesickness?
With the Hanoi sky darkening and the
temperature dropping, we head back to
the warmth of our hotel. Snow is there,
still smiling, with her scarf wrapped tightly
against the increasingly chilly air. It can get
cold on Hanoi’s streets – but never too cold
for Snow.
TRAVEL TIPS
Flights
There are no direct flights from
Penang to Hanoi, but flights to KL
are plentiful, from where Air Asia,
Malaysia Airlines and Vietnam Airlines
operate daily flights to Hanoi. Other
regional airlines fly to Vietnam from
KL daily but with a stopover.
Visa
Most visitors need a visa to enter
Vietnam. Citizens of Thailand,
Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, and
Laos holding valid ordinary passports
are exempt from visa requirements
and are allowed to stay for up to
30 days, while Philippines passport
holders are allowed to stay up to
21 days.
For those who require tourist visas,
these are issued at Vietnamese
diplomatic offices and consulates, and
are valid for 30 days. Tourists need
to ensure that their passports have at
least six months’ validity.
Penang International 27

Langkawi: The Jewel of Kedah
BY TC GERRARD • WWW.THEISLANDDRUM.COM
Langkawi:
The
Untold
Story
Malay house detail
28 Penang International

Colonial house
LANGKAWI IS FAST BECOMING one
of the most popular tourist destinations
in Malaysia. From its beaches and
mountainous rainforests to the Langkawi
Cable Car and its panoramic vistas, there
is lot to embrace on your holiday here.
However, the heart and soul of Langkawi
lies beyond the more popular attractions.
It is captured in its people, its culture, and
history… its untold stories.
The origin of the name of the island is not
clear; however, there are two opinions on
this matter. The first is that it came from the
kingdom of Langkasuka, founded sometime
in the first century in what is now Kedah.
The second and more accepted version of
the name’s origin is from old Malay, helang
meaning eagle and kawi meaning brown or
strong. The island is teaming with Brahminy
kites and sea eagles, giving credence to this
more popular concept.
Langkawi is also steeped in legends and
folklore. You will find most locals are
familiar with their own version of the
island’s legends as told to them by their
parents and grandparents. One of the
most agreed-upon is the naming of Kuah,
Langkawi’s major town. The legend is
that two families were in conflict over the
involvement of one family’s daughter and
the other’s son. The families did not approve
and during a festival, the fathers became
upset and the conflict turned violent.
Punches were thrown, and in the rumble,
pots were kicked and overturned. Where
the pot of gravy landed became the town of
Kuah – gravy in Malay – and where the pot
of hot water overturned resulted in the hot
springs that are found on the island. After a
long silence, it was noticed that the heads of
the two families had been transformed into
the two mountains on the island, Gunung
Raya and Gunung Mat Cenang.
This is one version of this old tale and
only one of the many legends that make
up the oral history of Langkawi. From the
story of the Cave of Legends, to Mahsuri’s
Tomb, to the Lake of the Pregnant Maiden
the island’s colourful history is reflected in
the many legends handed down over the
generations.
The island’s heritage is also reflected in its
varied architecture. Traditional architecture
is slowly being replaced to bring in the
new economic future. The proud and
well-designed traditional Malay home
is giving way to more modern costeffective
concrete and block. Less efficient
and aesthetically inferior these ‘new’
structures not only deprive the island of its
architectural history but rely on modern
air-con and technology to gain their
foothold over tried-and-true conventional
Malay dwellings that, through their design,
incorporated convection cooling and more
ambient light.
Malaysia, formally Malaya, has a very deep
architectural history. Indian and Chinese
traders came here centuries ago and left
their marks. Then with the Dutch and
English traders, the colonial architecture
came into influence. A microcosm for
Malaysian architecture can be found on
Langkawi today. The traditional Malay
wooden houses with their peaked roofs and
stilts and the Chinese-influenced timber
structures with their pinned hinge doors
give way to more colonial style buildings
of brick and concrete with their wide
verandas, tall ceilings. and wood casements.
Night market
Penang International 29

Langkawi: The Jewel of Kedah
BY TC GERRARD • WWW.THEISLANDDRUM.COM
Traditional Malay house
You will see these various styles scattered
about the island. However a good example
of all these styles in one location is the Bon
Ton and Temple Tree Resorts, whose rooms
are situated in renovated buildings of all
these styles.
The local islanders have a long history in
boat building, fishing, and agriculture. With
a little exploration through the seaside
villages and small kampungs (villages) here
you will still find Langkawians that are
living the lifestyle of their parents and
grandparents. You will find traditional boat
builders still using their finely learned
skills handed down by their fathers and
grandfathers, farmers working the rice
paddies, fields, and orchards, and the local
vendors plying their wares by the roadside
or in small markets.
A visit to the Laman Padi Museum in
Pantai Cenang gives you an insight into
just how labour-intensive rice cultivation
is. You will learn how this all-important
grain has influenced the local culture
over the centuries not only in agricultural
technology but also in skilled craftsmanship
and celebrations.
The diversity of culinary influence is
seen everywhere on the island in its local
eateries and markets. A visit to Langkawi
should include a visit to at least one of the
night markets where food and produce is
presented in an evening festival atmosphere.
30 Penang International

Advertorial
Boat building
Touring by Jet Ski
Mega Water Sports
of Langkawi
Rice paddy after harvest
There is a night market somewhere on the island every day of the
week. You will find local dishes with Malay, Thai, Indian, and Chinese
influence to sample.
The wet markets are also a place to further be introduced to the
local culture and its people who purvey everything from fresh fish,
buffalo and poultry to fruits and vegetables and herbs and spices.
The kaleidoscope of colors, texture and people may seem a bit
intimidating but the locals are easy to converse with and are readily
willing to answer your questions with a gesture and a smile.
Dev’s Adventure Tours offers a cultural excursion into the behindthe-scene
Langkawi. The brainstorm of local naturalist Selva Raju this
tour is a six-hour introduction to Langkawi’s culture, heritage, and
people. It culminates in a dinner hosted by Selva and his wife, Uma,
at his home in Kuah. The large vegetarian Indian feast is even served
on the traditional banana leaf. Their unbridled hospitality makes this
a fulfilling conclusion to your day around the island and an eyeopening
introduction Langkawi’s heritage.
There are additional Langkawi Cultural Tours offered through
Malaysian Tourism, and for a trip into the Langkawi of days gone
by, Tuba Island Tours takes you out and about this island that has in
some ways scarcely changed.
Langkawi has its own unique and rich cultural diversity and history.
These untold stories are present in everything around you, and by
simply leaving the beaten path, can give you an adventure that you
will always remember.
Dev’s Adventure Tours
www.langkawi-nature.com, +6 019 494 9193
Tuba Travels and Tours
+6 017 456 5613
www.tourism.gov.my
Jet skis are becoming one of the most popular of new water sports
options on Langkawi. These personal watercraft offer a new and
unique way to get offshore and explore the natural wonders of
Langkawi and its surrounding islands. And Mega Water Sports takes
seriously its responsibility towards not only beach visitors (and their
safety), but the environment, as well.
Mega Water Sports has a fleet of new low-emission jet skis and offers
guided tours not only for families but for the more serious water
sport enthusiast, too. They have a strict policy of minimising the
time the craft are operating near the beach and regulate the speed in
the beach zone as well.
Every rider is given in-depth safety and operational training before
each tour. They offer a number of tour options that explore the
islands of Beras Basah, Singa Besar, Rebak Besar, and Dayang Bunting
with its Lake of The Pregnant Maiden. One of the tours also explores
a local fishing village and the busy harbour in Kuah. As you ride out
and amongst the islands, you have a chance to do some snorkelling
on a coral reef, beach combing, and eagle watching. This is a not-tobe-missed
experience at a great price.
The tours are all approximately four hours in duration and start as
low as RM500 for a single rider and RM600 for two.
Mega Water Sports
Jet Ski Tours
Tel: + 6 04 966 6902
Mobile: +6 012 200 2155 /+6 012 389 0801 / +6 019 316 4948
www.megawatersports.com
Penang International 31

happenings
George Town Festival 2013
This year’s George Town Festival is even more breathtaking than usual. Frances Wilks
explores just a few of the many highlights. For more details on the festival, simply visit
www.georgetownfestival.com.
Esplanade Happenings
The Festival will take off (literally as well
as metaphorically) with the release of
dozens of kites on the Esplanade field
from 12pm to 7pm on 8 June. Master
kite makers from around the region
will fly their creations while percussion
music will play in the streets and on the
field. The opening will climax with the
unveiling of a bamboo installation by
celebrated Indonesian artist Joko Avianto.
Kites will take to
the sky to mark the
opening of the festival.
101 Lost Kittens
This interactive treasure hunt and animal awareness campaign takes place
along Victoria Street and is a fun-filled activity for all ages. There are
many stray cats and lost cats looking for a home in Penang, and hopefully
this project will raise awareness of their plight.
If you spy images of kittens and cats around the area, look closer, or scan
the surface for a QR code that will give you more clues about the entire
series. This treasure hunt and animal awareness campaign launches on
7 June and runs for three weeks, culminating on 29 June at Victoria Street.
Baroque Italy comes to Penang
The renowned Italian chamber music group I Musici presents
classical excerpts from pieces by some of Italy’s famous
composers through several eras, as well as a contemplative
interpretation of Antonio Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. I Musici is the oldest
chamber group in Italy and, based on reviews, their performance
here in Penang promises to be a powerful sound experience.
The Italian musicians gather for a one-night special in Penang.
The performance takes place on 7 June at 8.30pm at the Dewan
Sri Pinang. Tickets costs RM60, RM80, RM100 (RM20 for
students, 50% off for senior citizens). Tickets available now at
www.redtix.airasia.com.
32 Penang International

Men in Tutus
You thought you’d seen it all when men danced the role of the swans in Swan Lake, but
Men in Tutus camps it up to a new level of hilarity. Fresh from their tour of Australia and
New Zealand, this all-male comedy troupe combines classical ballet, tongue-in-cheek
humour, dancing mishaps and, of course, hissy fits in a performance that sees men
playing both male and female roles. Some of the men do actually look like gorgeous
women, while others are hairy-chested men with pancake makeup, but all are in tutus
and dancing en pointe.
Men in Tutus takes place at two venues: 11 June at Dewan Sri Pinang (tickets from RM
85-175 at www.tix.MY) and 13-16 June at PenangPac (tickets from RM105-195 at
www.ilassotickets.com).
Memories of Gold
A prince of the royal house of Lao who
worked as a doctor in France before
moving into his true calling as an artist and
collector will be holding two workshops
on gold stencilling to complement the
exhibition of his personal collection of
antique embroideries.
Exhibition of Gold Thread Embroidery
This collection of uniquely Laotian goldthread
embroidery is presented by Tiao
Nithakhong Somsanith, a direct descendent
of the Lao’s Royal House of Luang Prabang.
Traditional embroidery from Tiao Nith’s
personal collection of aristocratic and royal
court outfits, dance costumes, and a series
of contemporary works created specifically
for George Town Festival 2013 will be on
display at the Victory Annex Lobby from
7-16 June from 10am to 6 pm daily.
Magic Boxes and Dancing Monks
Magic boxes (designed by celebrated British artist Anthony Gormley) are as much part
of this performance as the 17 Buddhist Shaolin monks who create a performance of
amazing skill, strength, and virtuosity. The Finnish/Moroccan choreographer Sidi Larbi
Cherkaoui visited their monastery as part of a life-long quest to explore the philosophy
and faith behind the Shaolin tradition, its relationship with Kung-Fu, and its position
within a contemporary context. Sutra, which has been performed in New York and
London, is the result.
The piece also includes a beautiful, brand new score for piano, percussion, and strings
by Polish composer Szymon Brzóska, which is played live. The Turner Prize-winning
artist Antony Gormley has created a design consisting of 21 wooden boxes which are
repositioned to create a striking, ever changing on-stage environment.
For a small sample of the show, visit www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_cMBDeIGAE
Sutra takes place on 29-30 June at the Dewan Sri Pinang. Tickets cost RM60-100 and are
available now at www.redtix.airasia.com.
Free Stencilling Workshop
Tiao Nithakhong Somsanith will conduct
this workshop. He is extraordinarily
talented and passionate about traditional
Cambodian crafts and art such as motifs,
patterns and stencilling as seen on temples
and buildings. This is a free, one-off
workshop with limited places. Sign up
for the workshop by contacting info@
georgetownfestival.com or phoning
04.261 6308. The workshop will be held
on 9 June from 2-4 pm at the Victory
Annexe Lobby, E&O Hotel.
Special Gold-Leaf Stencilling Workshop
There will be a special gold leaf stencilling
workshop held by Tiao Nithakhong
Somsanith on 11 June from 10am to 1pm
at the Victory Annexe Lobby, E&O Hotel.
The cost is RM100 and places are bookable
via Michelle Grimsley (016.457 0221)
Penang International 33

34 Penang International

advertorial
Serenity near the City
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offers a resort-living experience in a convenient location.
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like no other. This bustling Malaysian
island is experiencing a growth and
transformation like never before, treasuring
its rich heritage while simultaneously
embracing the future. For a lucky few,
top-notch residential offerings on the
island are catering to an increased demand
for luxury, serenity, space, convenience,
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all these in one well-planned and wellmanaged
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This serene green enclave will ultimately
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and Resort Condominiums. Launched in
December 2012, the Emaryl Condo Villas
of Precinct One offer an unprecedented
degree of low-density luxury living in
Batu Ferringhi. With only ten condos per
block – and just two on each floor – the
key concept for these villas is space. Each
Condo Villa has a front and rear façade
facing outdoors, and the units themselves
are sized from 140m2 to 163m2 (1,510 sq
ft to 1,752 sq ft), embracing the popular
open-plan concept that brings the living
and dining areas together in one bright
space. Each unit offers three bedrooms plus
another room which can be converted as
the owner wishes.
The open plan of the Condo Villas is
further enhanced by high ceilings and
large windows, allowing lots of natural
light to fill the area. The units are also fitted
and finished to international standards,
and a host of upgrades and conveniences
are offered to enhance the luxury living
standard of Ferringhi Residence.
Outside the individual units, however,
is another reason that puts Feringghi
Residence ahead in the game. An infinity
pool, a gymnasium, a lifestyle café, and a
children’s playground – all housed in an
attractive and modern clubhouse – put
Feringghi Residence in a league of its own.
Lovers of the outdoors can take long walks
along meandering paths and cycle through
the lush, green area. The sense of openness
in the park-like setting is magnificent, and
the greenery and beautiful landscaping
contribute to a sense of calm and wellbeing.
Truly, this is a marvellous place to
call home.
The enclave has been built around six
exquisite landscape themes: Eco Street,
Flying Carpet, Infinity Pool, Paddy Terrace,
Scent Trail, and Water Lounge. The design
of each “water pebble” allows residents to
combine nature with family activities in a
lovely bond. Each of these unique themes
stimulates the senses in subtly different and
distinct manners. Once you’re comfortably
ensconced within the Ferringhi Residence
enclave, the outside world seems to vanish.
“Here, you feel like you are miles from the
hustle and bustle of the city,” says Mah Sing
Group’s Chief Operating Officer, Teh Heng
Chong. “But actually, Ferringhi Residence
very centrally-located.” He continues, citing
examples of the community’s convenience:
“This gated and guarded community is
just 500ms from the famous Uplands
International School, only 1km from
Holiday Inn Resort and Batu Ferringhi
Beach, 15km to George Town, and just
35km from Penang International Airport.”
This tranquil combination of water,
greenery, pathways, and spacious residences
in such a highly sought-after location
alongside the beautiful beaches of Batu
Ferringhi is just the latest stunning
achievement by Mah Sing Group. Serenity
and open-living meet security and
convenience in an ideal Penang location.
Ferringhi Residence is a rewarding and
enviable place to call home for those who
recognise a superior quality of life as the
ultimate achievement.
For further details on this master-planned freehold
development, please contact Mah Sing Group, 1
Southbay City, Jalan Permatang Damar Laut,
11960 Bayan Lepas, Penang. Tel: 04.6288 188.
Email: ferringhi.residence@mahsing.com.my.
Website: www.ferringhi-residence.com.my.
Penang International 35

36 Penang International

information
Exploring Straits Quay
IF YOU’VE ALREADY visited Straits
Quay, you will know that there are many
delightful culinary experiences from Eastern
and Western cuisines, from cake and coffee
and delicious desserts to frozen yoghurt
and bespoke marshmallows. What you may
not know is just how many activities are
available in Straits Quay, and over the
next few months I will be sampling some
of them.
My first stop is the School of Hard Knocks
at Royal Selangor Pewter, just above the
shop which sells a gorgeous range of
pewter items. Pewter is made largely from
tin with a little copper and antimony added
to the mixture, and is an integral part of
Malaysia’s heritage as the tin mines of the
nineteenth century contributed much to
the wealth of the country. Many immigrants
came from China as tin miners and tin
smiths and made their fortunes here. In fact,
the history of the tin miners can be seen in
the small museum which you can enjoy just
before you enter the School of Hard Knocks.
Once inside you are given an apron, a
mallet, and some pewter – amazingly, this
small flat disc will make a bowl. You begin
by inscribing your name using letter blocks.
I didn’t get mine in the middle, which I
regretted later. Next comes the fun part!
Using the mallet, you hammer the pewter
into a hemi-spherical shape. It’s quite
easy to do but it does require some elbow
grease. Quite quickly you get the rhythm,
and then it’s time to turn over your pewter
disc – which is by now almost a bowl – and
attack the other side.
The staff show you how to finish the bowl
so that it’s even, and then you’re done! You
leave with a lovely dish to take home and
keep sweets or small items in. Best of all,
you made it yourself.
Another place where you have the chance
to be creative is The Art & Space (TAES).
Envisioned as a cross between an open
studio and a club, the Art & Space attracts all
sorts of artists, from the professional to the
beginner, who work in all sorts of media
including pen and ink, water colour, oil,
pastel, and acrylic. You can use the space
for RM20 a session (book in advance),
and the price includes tea and coffee as
well as a generous selection in the biscuit
tin. There are also a variety of longer term
memberships available.
Esther Geh, co-founder of The Art & Space
says, “We set up the space because there
are so many people in Penang who live in
small houses and apartments and who don’t
have the room to be creative. It can also be
quite lonely doing art on your own. Here
there are people to talk to and books to read
for inspiration. There’s no criticism unless
you ask for it but most of all you are just
welcome to come here and play.”
Artist in residence Elspeth McEachern
is often there working on her series of
mythological paintings and she is available
for guidance and courses such as how
to use pastels and drawing. Whatever
medium you choose at the Art & Space,
you are bound to have fun and produce
something unique.
After all that creative hard work, I am
really ready for a delicious cup of tea
and indulgent slice of homemade cake
at Delicious, located just below the Art &
Space. Delicious overlooks the sea and is the
ideal place to chill out, write your diary, or
rest after your activities at the Quay.
Royal Selangor Pewter
3A-G-1, Straits Quay, Jalan Seri Tanjung Pinang,
Tanjung Tokong, 10470, Penang
The Art & Space
Email enquiries@theartespace.com or contact
Esther on 012 401 9636. Visit www.theartespace.
com for more details.
Penang International 37

38 Penang International

shopping
Rustic Heritage
IF YOU’RE SETTING UP a home in Penang or just want that special piece to
complete a room, one of the best places to find the furniture you need is Rustic
Heritage in Tanjong Tokong. Set well back from the main road with ample
parking, the shop has original antiques and reproduction Asian pieces as well as
contemporary furniture and objets d’art. The shop is the brainchild of John Tay,
who set Rustic Heritage up in the late 1990s with his sister Bibie. “I buy and she
sells,” he explains, smiling, “but it’s sort of in the blood, as our parents had a junk
shop in Chulia Street when we were children.”
John used to be purely an antiques dealer until he started bringing in Indonesian
furniture to complement the older pieces. “I concentrate more on Thailand and
China these days, as the quality is higher and my customers are discerning, being
both local and expat.” Everything is handpicked and John doesn’t believe in sets,
preferring the unique, original look of one-off pieces.
There are Buddhas from Thailand, teak chairs and tables, cabinets, and gorgeous
Peranakan red and gold carvings. You can spend as little as RM10 on a silver
carved lotus stick from Thailand – or rather more!
A lot of recycled wood is used and combined with edgy fittings. John points to a
coffee table, where above the base of stainless steel sits a craggy indented piece of
old withered elm. It’s delectable and it’s bound to be the heritage of the future.
Rustic Heritage; 515k, Jalan Tanjung Bungah, 11500 George Town; 04.899 6844;
www.rusticheritage.net.
Penang International 39

40 Penang International

dining
BY FRANCES WILKS
A Blast from the Past
Berry parfait
Halibut
French onion soup
Raspberry sorbet
Maine lobster cocktail
RASA SAYANG, ON Penang’s Batu Ferringhi
Beach, reaches the interesting age of 40 this
year. To celebrate, Chef Matthias Tretbar has
re-created some of the tastes of the 1970s in
his new menu which will run every Sunday
until the end of 2013.
Dining at Rasa’s Ferringhi Grill is always
an experience. Carefully choreographed
courses follow each other like the sequences
in a dance, leaving one satisfied but not full.
There’s always an amuse bouche to set the
scene and the nostalgia menu features crab
meat mousse and salad – a delicious taste
of cold crab tempered with sprouted fresh
greens.
Next came a choice of Sesame and
Coriander marinated Duck Magret or
Maine lobster cocktail. Of course, seafood
cocktails, usually with prawns, were a
staple feature of the 1970s but this version
is not like that era’s at all. It had a sharp
brandy dressing with a background note of
cocktail dressing and was served with baby
mushrooms.
There was a choice of French Onion Soup
or Lobster Bisque next. I choose the French
onion soup, as it was one of the meals I had
enjoyed as a student back in the day. Well,
this was a little more sumptuous than my
student experiences. The onions had been
caramelised and then simmered in a beef
stock and, as a final touch, a rich cheesey
toast had been sunk into the heart of the
soup. We then cleansed our palates with a
raspberry sorbet.
The mains are a choice of Rack of Lamb
Provençale, a whole lobster, or a baked
fillet of halibut. I went for the Rack
of Lamb which was baked with Dijon
mustard and fresh herbs and served with
gratin dauphinoise and fresh garden
vegetables. I wasn’t disappointed. It was
superb, delicately pink inside and so
tender. It had been seared it off first and
then slow-cooked. The dauphinoise was
rich with cream and cheese and just
slightly crusty.
As we enjoyed the dessert, parfait sweet
dream, a gloriously seductive concoction
of strawberries, raspberries, and other
mixed berries, I remarked to the chef that
this was not how I remembered the food
of the ’70s. He nevertheless replied, “These
are authentic recipes that we found in the
archives, and we hope that these tastes will
bring back the past for many of our guests
who have been coming to the hotel since
we opened. I have tried to make them with
magic and a dash of nostalgia.”
I think he has succeeded and if you would
like to try it for yourself, the menu is
available every Sunday for the rest of the
year. Additionally, you will get an early
bird discount of 30% off your bill if you
eat at 6:30 pm and finish your meal by
8:30pm!
Penang International 41

Pantai Kerachut
Teluk Kampi
Pulau
Betong Homestay
Pulau Betong
Teluk Duyung
(Monkey Beach)
Meromictic Lake
PENANG
NATIONAL PARK
Teluk
Bahang
Dam
Teluk Bahang
Jetty Fishing
Village
Homestay
Teluk Bahang
Balik Pulau
Kompleks
Tabung Haji
TROPICAL
SPICE GARDEN
PENANG BUTTERFLY FARM
FOREST
RECREATION PARK
AND MUSEUM
TROPICAL
FRUIT FARM
Batu Feringgi
Homestay
Kampung Jalan
Baharu
PENANG HILL
KEK LOK SI
TEMPLE
Air Itam Dam
Equatorial
Hotel
Taman Awam
Metropolitan Relau
Bukit Jambul
Country Club
Sunshine Square
Bayan Lepas
FLOATING
MOSQUE
Tanjung Bunga
PENANG
BOTANIC
GARDENS
Penang Turf Club (Golf Section)
TAMAN PERBANDARAN Gurney Drive
(Penang Municipal Park) Tune GEORGE TOWN
WAT CHAYAMANGKALARAM
Hotel
SWETTENHAM PIER
SUFFOLK
HOUSE
Air Itam
STATE
MOSQUE
Universiti Sains
Malaysia
SNAKE
TEMPLE
WATERFALL
HILLTOP TEMPLE
Tesco Extra
Kompleks
Bukit Jambul
Vistana Hotel
Bayan
Lepas
Expressway
Tanjung
Tokong
Island
Plaza
Gurney
Plaza
DHARMIKARAMA
BURMESE TEMPLE
Gelugor
P. RAMLEE’S
HOUSE
Jelutong
Tesco
Sungai Nibong
Bus Terminal
Penang
Times Square
Jelutong
Expressway
Eastin
Hotel
Penang
Queensbay
Mall
Jerejak
Resort & Spa
N
Penang
National
Park
Bayview
Beach
Resort
Tropical
Spice Garden
Jln Teluk Bahang
Komtar
/Prangin Mall
Penang
Bridge
Hard Rock
Hotel
Penang
Butterfly
Farm
Forest Rec.
Park &
Museum
Parkroyal
Penang
Lone
Pine
Hotel
Holiday Inn
Resort
TANJONG CITY
MARINA
Ferry
Golden
Sands
Resort
Jln Batu Feringgi
Shangri-la’s
Rasa Sayang
Resort & Spa
Floating
Mosque
Jalan Tanjung Bunga
Paradise
Flamingo By
Sandy
The Beach
Beach
Penang
Resort
Hydro Majestic Hotel
Sri Sayang
Resort
NINE EMPEROR
GODS TEMPLE
BUTTERWORTH
Tesco Extra
Sunway Carnival Mall
PERAI Sunway Seberang Jaya Hotel
PENANG Safira Country Club
BIRD PARK
Pearl View Hotel
Carrefour
MegaMall
Pinang
Butterworth Outer Ring Road
Copthorne
Orchid
Penang /
Toy Musuem
Naza Talyya
Penang
Tanjung Bunga
Beach Resort
Jalan Tanjung Tokong
Auto-City
Juru
Island Plaza
>
Jalan Bagan Jermal
Evergreen
Laurel
Hotel
Gurney
Hotel
Northam
All
Suites
BUKIT
MERTAJAM
ST. ANNE’S
CHURCH
Bertam Golf
Resort
Homestay
Mengkuang
Titi
Mengkuang
Dam
Taman Rimba
Bukit Mertajam
Hotel Summit
& Shopping
Centre
N
Batu Maung
Fishing Village
Pulau Rimau
WAR MUSEUM
Proposed
2 nd Penang
Bridge (Open Nov 2013)
Pulau
Gedung
Pulau
Aman
Homestay
Pulau Aman Batu
Musang
Jetty
Batu
Kawan
Bukit
Tambun
Homestay
Sg. Chenaam
SUNGAI CHENAAM
Bukit Jawi
Golf
Resort
Legend
Highway
/ Expressway
Principal Road
Golf Resort
Hotel
Shopping Centre
Airport
Tourist Information Centre
Homestay
For enquiries, call Kopel (Koperasi
Pelancongan Pulau Pinang Bhd)
Tel: 04-250 5502
Homestay
Sg. Duri
TAMAN RIMBA
TO FIREFLY BUKIT PANCHOR
SANCTUARY
(SUNGAI KERIAN)
Homestay
Sg. Setar
This map is the property of Penang Tourism Development and Culture. Visitors can get their free copy at the Tourism Offi ce at Penang International Airport or at the Penang Heritage Centre on 116-118 Acheen Street.
1 Wat Chayamangkalaram
Wat Chayamangkalaram is a Thai
Buddhist temple built in 1845 on
land granted by Queen Victoria as
a gesture of goodwill to Thailand.
The temple has one of the largest
Reclining Buddha statues in the
world. Spectacular to behold, the
statue is completely gold-plated
and measures 33 metres in length.
You can also appreciate the
magnicent craftsmanship in the
exquisite statues of Devas and
other mythical creatures located
on the temple grounds. Open daily
6.00am – 5.30pm
2 Dharmikarama Burmese Temple
Located on Lorong Burma, this
Burmese temple is the favoured
venue for the Songkran festivities
– Thailand’s traditional New Year’s
Day – which is celebrated in April.
The temple’s serene surroundings
feature a Bodhi tree, wishing pond
and pagoda.
3 Swettenham Pier
Built in 1904, Swettenham Pier
used to be one of the busiest
trading ports back in the days
when Penang was a trading
hub. At present it has been
redeveloped into a terminal for
large cruise ships and other boats.
The new terminal has facilities
for shipping and cruise passenger
arrivals and departures.
4 P. Ramlee’s House
This landmark commemorates the
late larger-than-life comedian,
actor, singer, composer and lm
director P. Ramlee. It chronicles
his life history as well as
showcases personal memorabilia.
Open daily 10.00am – 5.30pm.
5 State Mosque
The State Mosque is one of
the most beautiful mosques
in the country. Construction
of the mosque began in 1976
and was completed in 1980.
Elegant and iconic, the mosque
is located on 45 hectares land,
easily accommodating 5,000
worshippers. Open from 9.00am
– 5.30pm, visitors must dress
appropriately and remove shoes
before entering. Permission to
enter must be obtained from
mosque ofcials.
6 Suffolk House
The Suffolk House was built in
the 1780s on a vast estate owned
by the founder of Penang (then
Prince of Wales Island), Captain
Francis Light. Considered the
rst “great house of Penang”,
the Suffolk House was named
after Light’s birthplace: Suffolk,
England. The unique mansion
features authentic Anglo-Indian
architecture, which earned it a
special recognition from UNESCO.
The structure has gone through
many stages of restoration
spanning over 40 years. Today,
part of the mansion has been
converted into an upscale
restaurant.
7 Air Itam Dam
Opened in 1962, the dam is a
popular recreational and picnic
venue. It is located on gentle
hillocks, next to Penang Hill. The
dam commands panoramic views
of the island and George Town.
8 Kek Lok Si Temple
Kek Lok Si means ‘Temple of
Supreme Bliss’. Construction
began in 1890, with the
completion of its seven-storey
handcrafted “Pagoda of Ten
Thousand Buddhas” in 1930.
The pagoda is considered one
of Penang’s most beautiful
architectural wonders with its
Chinese octagonal base, Thai
middle tier and Burmese crown. A
30.2m Kuan Yin bronze statue was
completed in 2002. Open daily
9.00am – 6.00pm.
Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion
42 Penang International

9 Penang Hill
Penang hill offers a panoramic
view of the city, 830m above
sea level. Getting to the top is
half the fun with a choice of
hiking or travelling in a funicular
train. At the summit, there is a
ower garden, a mini bird park,
bungalows and guest houses.
Funicular train schedule: 6.30am
–9.15pm (Monday - Thursday,
Sunday) 6.30am – 11.15pm (Friday
& Saturday)
10 Taman Perbandaran (Penang
Municipal Park)
The Penang Municipal Park is a
recreational park designed for
active youths. Built in the 1970’s
on quarry land, the park was
called Penang Youth Park. Today,
the park is a popular sports and
lifestyle venue with a skating rink,
outdoor auditorium for open-air
festivals and concerts and a water
park. Open daily 7.00am-7.00pm
11 Penang Botanic Gardens
The 30-hectare Botanic Gardens
is a popular park among locals for
its refreshing ambience. It was
created in 1884 by the British
to collect botanical specimens
from the surrounding hills. Two
must-see attractions are the
Japanese Garden and the Bamboo
Setum within the arboretum. The
annual international oral fest
draws throngs of people with its
colourful and magnicent displays.
Open daily 6.00am – 9.00pm.
12 Waterfall Hilltop Temple
Dedicated to the deity Murugan,
the Balathandayuthapani Temple is
one of the oldest Hindu temples in
Penang. Originally, it was located
within the Botanic Gardens but
was later moved to its present
hilltop location at the beginning
of the 20th century. The temple is
the last destination for the annual
Thaipusam festival.
13 Floating Mosque
Malaysia’s rst oating mosque is
located along the scenic stretch of
Tanjung Bunga. Accommodating up
to 1,500 worshippers, the mosque
features a blend of local and
Middle Eastern architecture with a
seven-storey minaret. There is an
open space for visitors to sea-gaze
peacefully.
14 Batu Feringgi
Batu Feringgi is one of Penang’s
most popular beaches and has
drawn tourists over the years to
its sandy banks. Along this winding
stretch of beach, you will nd a
host of attractions from ocean
sports, parasailing, horse riding
and even a night bazaar!
15 Tropical Spice Garden
The garden is a picturesque
oasis, home to over 500 exotic
varieties of plants. Its undulating
landscaped trails invite visitors to
go on a mesmerising, refreshing
discovery. Open daily 9.00am –
6.00pm.
16 Penang National Park
For nature lovers, the national
park is the place to be. Exciting
rainforest trails take one on a
journey of beauty. Thrill seekers
should head for the canopy walk;
hovering 15m above the ground,
the 250m long walk will give you
a rare experience. The pristine
beaches of Teluk Duyung, Muka
Head and Pantai Kerachut are also
a popular attraction. The park is
home to a meromictic lake and
is also a nesting site for turtles.
Open daily 7.30am – 7.00pm.
17 Teluk Bahang Dam
Located off the northern cape
of Penang Island, the dam was
completed in 1999. Its scenic
surroundings are a favourite picnic
spot for locals. The dam has been
the dramatic stage for the annual
Penang International Dragon Boat
Festival races since 2002.
18 Penang Buttery Farm
The name may seem like a
misnomer as there are more than
butteries living here. The farm
has over 3000 living specimens
from over 50 species of rare
and exotic butteries, frogs,
scorpions and other insects. Open
on weekdays 9.00am – 5.00pm,
weekends 9.00am – 6.00pm.
19 Forest Recreation Park and
Museum
The forestry museum is an
education centre on the forestry
sector and how it plays an
important role in the socialeconomic
development of
Malaysia. Explore the breathtaking
100-acre landscaped park and
encounter beautiful oras and
faunas. Dormitories are available
should you opt to spend the
night there. Open daily 9.00am –
5.00pm
20 Tropical Fruit Farm
Created with the intention of
preserving Malaysia’s green
heritage, the 25-acre tropical
fruit farm opened in 1993. The
farm has more than 250 types of
tropical and sub-tropical fruits
from around the world. Visitors
visit the farm to sample the fruits
and take in the breathtaking
vistas.
21 Taman Awan Metropolitan
Relau
The park was opened in 2003 as
an agro-tourism site. It is the
second largest recreational park
on Penang Island with facilities
for jungle trekking, mountain
biking, hiking, outdoor games,
and jogging, and it also offers a
children’s playground.
22 Bukit Jambul Country Club
Located on the sprawling greens
of the Bukit Jambul Country Club,
this world class golf course offers
formidable fairways and greens
surrounded by rock passages and
dense jungle. Its stunning 18 hole
5,763 meter, par 72 golf course
was designed by Robert Trent
Jones Jr., a noted golf course
architect and son of legendary golf
course designer Rees Jones.
23 Universiti Sains Malaysia
(USM) Museum and Art Gallery
There is a diverse collection of
Baba Nyonya and Malay artifacts,
textiles, prints, traditional
jewellery and Malay daggers as
well as a collection of paintings in
this gallery. Open Tues-Thurs, Sat-
Sun 9.00am – 6.00pm, Fri 9.00am
– 12.15pm / 2.45pm – 6.00pm.
24 Snake Temple
Built in 1850, the snake temple
– also known as the Temple of
Azure Cloud – is dedicated to
Chor Soo Kong, a priest who was
believed to have extraordinary
healing powers. According to
local folklore, a religious man
offered the venomous pit vipers
shelter from danger and since
then, they have stayed in safety
of the temple. Open daily 6.00am
– 7.00pm.
25 Batu Maung Fishing Village
The Batu Maung shing village is
a close-knit community located
at Penang Island’s southeastern
tip. It is famed for a mysterious
giant footprint on a boulder at the
beach. Known as Tapak Gedembai,
the origins of the footprint differ
among the different communities:
the Chinese believe the footprint
was left by Admiral Cheng Ho,
while Indians believe it was the
footprint of the monkey god
Hanuman and Malays believe it
belonged to a eeing giant.
26 War Museum
The Penang War Museum is built
on the remnants of an old British
fort which defended Penang’s
coast from attack. The museum
is a memorial to those who died
defending the country as well
as aims to be an educational
centre about life in Penang during
World War II. It features old war
relics and depicts the lifestyle of
soldiers in those times. Open daily
9.00am – 6.00pm
33 Auto-City Juru
Auto-City is one of Penang’s
most prominent lifestyle venues.
Opened in 2003, it is a massive
automobile show arena for
prestigious carmakers. With its
vast array of restaurants and
regular festivals and events, the
City is a hotspot for leisure and
entertainment.
34 Batu Musang Jetty
Completed in 2007, the Batu
Musang Jetty was built to improve
the means of transportation of the
local residents of Pulau Aman and
neighbouring Pulau Gedung to and
from the mainland. Conceptually
designed to blend with the
surrounding ora and fauna, the
jetty is equipped with food and
drink stalls, toilets, waiting hall
and also spacious parking lots.
Surrounded by untouched lush
greenery, the jetty has been a
favourite spot amongst the locals
for camping, picnics and shing
activities.
35 Firey Sanctuary
Behold the rare enchanting sight
of reies along the Sungai Kerian
riverbank with a morning or sunset
cruise. Other exotic activities you
could try are octopus catching,
bat cave exploration and visiting
Penang’s largest sea sh cage
farm.
36 Taman Rimba Bukit Panchor
Opened in 1963, the 8-hectare
park is located in the southern
part of Seberang Perai. It offers
a popular camping site under a
canopy of indigenous trees and
plants, while t he bat caves are a
major tourist attraction. Chalets
are available for those who are
interested in staying.
Penang International 43

J ELUTONG EX PR ES S W AY
This map is the property of Penang Tourism Development and Culture. Visitors can get their free copy at the Tourism Offi ce at Penang International Airport or at the Penang Heritage Centre on 116-118 Acheen Street.
1 City Hall
Built in 1903, this is the
headquarters of the Penang
Island Municipal Council. A
World War 1 monument for
fallen soldiers is also located
here.
2 Town Hall
This was the social venue for
Penang’s elite back in the 1880s.
It’s classic colonial elegance
was the backdrop for a scene in
the movie Anna and the King.
Located nearby is an ornate
fountain which was presented
to the public of Penang by Koh
Seang Tat in 1883.
3 Dewan Sri Penang
This community hall is a popular
venue for local and international
art exhibitions, orchestras,
expositions and festivals.
4 Penang Art Gallery
The Penang Art Gallery was
ofcially opened in 1964. The
gallery showcases outstanding
Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion
works by local and international
artists including those from
Japan and Thailand. Open Mon-
Sat, 9am-5pm.
5 Esplanade
The Esplanade is a seafront
promenade bordering an open
eld where festivals and events
are often held. Located along
this winding stretch are a War
Memorial to fallen soldiers,
a hawker food court and the
ancient Fort Cornwallis.
6 Fort Cornwallis
Built when Captain Francis Light
rst landed on Penang, this
ancient sentinel of George Town
stands guard over the island’s
cape. Visiting hours are Mon-
Sat, 9am-6pm daily.
7 Queen Victoria Memorial
Clock Tower
The 60-foot clock tower,
commissioned by the wealthy
Cheah Chen Eok, was built in
1897 to commemorate Queen
Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee.
Each foot represents a year in
the Queen’s reign.
8 State Assembly Buildings
These exquisite 19th century
buildings were formerly the
Police Court and are now the
venue for State Assemblies.
9 The Cathedral of the
Assumption
The Church was established
by Father Garnault along
Church Street. It moved to its
present site in 1861. In 1955,
it was awarded the status of a
Cathedral.
10 Penang State Museum
Almost destroyed in World War
II bombing, this building houses
a plethora of Penang historic
artefacts.
11 St George’s Church
Built between 1817 and 1818, it
is said to be the oldest Anglican
church in Southeast Asia.
12 Goddess of Mercy Temple
This popular temple is dedicated
to Kuan Yin, the Goddess of
Mercy. The rst foundation was
laid in 1728 by Chinese settlers
and completed in 1800.
13 Mahamariamman Temple
Built in 1883, it is the oldest
Hindu temple in George Town.
It began as a humble Hindu
shrine dedicated to Sri Muthu
Mariamman. A distinctive
feature of the temple is its
gopuram with 38 exquisitely
carved Hindu deities.
14 Teochew Temple
A prime example of Teochew
architecture, the temple was
built in 1855 and moved to
its present site in 1870. In
2006, the temple received the
Award of the Merit UNESCO
Asia-Pacific for Culture
Heritage Conservation. The
temple is also known as the
Han Jiang Teochew Ancestral
Temple.
44 Penang International

7 23
26
Useful Addresses
Consuls and Consulates
Honorary British Consul
Rob Hawkins. Tel: 04.337 5336
Website: http://ukinmalaysia.
fco.gov.uk/en
10
11
15
17
15 Kapitan Keling Mosque
Founded in 1801, it is the
largest historic mosque
in George Town. Designed
in Moghul architecture, it
features beautiful minarets
and domes.
16 Cheah Kongsi
This clan temple features classic
Chinese architecture with the
surprising addition of British lion
heads on the temple. The lions
symbolise the Straits Chinese
loyalty to the British colonial
powers. The Cheah Clan is one
of the oldest Hokkien clans
in Penang. The temple was
completed in the 1870s. Visiting
hours are 9am - 5pm daily.
17 Khoo Kongsi
Completed around 1906,
the temple belongs to
the Khoo Kongsi clan. The
temple features ne Chinese
architecture and craftsmanship.
Visiting hours are 9am-5pm
daily.
18 Masjid Melayu Lebuh Acheh
The mosque was founded by
Tengku Syed Hussain bin Abdul
Rahman Aideed in 1808 for the
early Hadhrami Arab settlers.
To this day, the descendants
of those families live in the
19th century bungalows that
surround the mosque.
19 Islamic Museum
(Syed Al-Attas Mansion)
Built in 1860, this elegant home
was once the proud abode of
Syed Mohammad Al-Attas, a
prominent Achehnese merchant
who was a stalwart supporter of
the Achehnese struggle against
the Dutch. The home has been
converted into an Islamic
Museum to educate the public
on the heritage of Penang’s
Muslim community. Visiting
hours are 9am-5.30pm daily,
closed on Tuesday.
20 The Pinang Peranakan
Mansion
This old mansion, former home
of Kapitan Chung Keng Kwee,
showcases over 1,000 antiques
and collectibles depicting the
life of the Straits Chinese,
or Peranakan as they were
locally known. Visiting hours
are 9.30am-5pm (Mondays
to Fridays), 9.30am-3pm
(Saturdays), closed on Sundays
and public holidays.
21 Little India
This little quarter of South
Indian culture is where early
Indian immigrants settled down
to make Penang their home. It is
the island’s epicentre of Indian
music, savoury cuisine, exotic
spices and authentic goods.
22 Tanjong City Marina
Malaysia’s rst inner city marina
is open to the public. Spanning
1.6ha, the marina, formerly
known as the Church Street Pier,
is adjacent to the Penang ferry
terminal.
23 Penang Ferry Service
Penang Ferry began operations
in 1920, making it the oldest
ferry service in Malaysia. These
iconic ferries ply the route
between the Seberang Perai
mainland and Penang Island,
carrying both passengers and
vehicles.
24 Clan Jetties
Located along the Weld Quay
are Penang’s historical clan
jetties, home to families of
traders, shermen and dock
workers. Built during the 19th
century, these traditional houses
are built over the sea on stilts
and are connected by wooden
walkways.
25 Upper Penang Road
A bustling lifestyle enclave
comprising bistros, cafes, local
coffee shops, clubs and pubs,
restaurants, handicraft and
cultural stores, clothing shops,
hotels and much more!
26 Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion
The ‘Blue Mansion’, former
home of tycoon Cheong Fatt
Tze, has been used as a
location for various movies and
television series. Guided tours
are available daily at 11am and
3pm.
27 Bengali Mosque
The mosque was founded in
1803 and built on land granted
by the East India Company.
28 Hainan Temple
The temple, founded in 1866, is
dedicated to the patron saint of
seafarers, the goddess Mar Chor.
The present building was built in
1895, restored in 1995. Visiting
hours are from 8am-8pm daily.
29 Campbell Street
Campbell Street is well known
for its traditional Chinese
medicinal shops, Indian
boutiques and other stores
selling merchandise. The famous
Campbell Street Market, built
in 1900, is where you could
procure fresh fruits, seafood
and meats.
30 KOMTAR
Built in 1978, Kompleks Tun
Abdul Razak (KOMTAR) is
Penang’s tallest building, rising
65 storeys. Named after the late
Prime Minister Tun Abdul Razak
bin Hussein, the complex is a
shopping mall, business hub and
the home to the Penang’s State
Government.
31 Gurney Drive
Named after Sir Henry Gurney,
a High Commissioner of
Malaysia, this seafront
promenade is famous for its
open air hawker court and
Gurney Plaza, an upscale mall
with international boutiques.
Indonesia Consulate, Penang
467, Jalan Burma, P.O. Box 502,
10350 Penang. Tel: 04.227 412
Email: fakar@pc.jaring.my
Consulate-General of Japan
in Penang, Malaysia
Level 28, Menara BHL,
51 Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah,
10050 Penang. Tel: 04.226 3030
E-mail: CGJP@japancon.com.my
International Organisations
Alliance Francaise
46, Jalan Phuah Hin Leong,
10050 Penang
Tel: 4.227 6008 / 228 9719
British Council
Wisma Great Eastern Suite 3A.
1 & 3A.2, 25 Light Street,10200
Penang. Tel: 04.263 0330
E-mail: penang@britishcouncil.
org.my
IWA (International Women’s
Association)
16 Jalan Tan Jit Seng, Hillside,
Tanjung Bungah, 11200 Penang
Tel/Fax: 04.898 2540
E-mail: info@iwa-penang.info
MGS - Malaysian-German
Society
250B, Jalan Air Itam, 10460
Penang. Tel/Fax: 04. 229 6853
Email: ofce@mgs-penang.com
Penang Japanese Association
256 Jalan Air Itam, 10460 Penang
Tel: 04.229 6853
www.pja.org.my
Penang Irish Association
Tel: 012 229 6853
Email: penangpia@gmail.com
Private Hospitals
Gleneagles Hospital
1 Jalan Pangkor, 10050 Penang
Tel: Main 04.227.6111, A&E
04.220 2108
Island Hospital
308 Jalan Macalister, 10450
Georgetown, Penang
Tel: 04.228 8222
Loh Guan Lye Hospital
238 Jalan Macalister,
Georgetown, 10400 Georgetown,
Penang. Tel: 04.238 8888,
Emergency Hotline 04.226 6911
Penang Adventist Hospital
465, Jalan Burma, 10350 Penang
Tel: 04.222 7200
Utilities
TNB (Electricity)
Tingkat 17, Wisma TNB, 30,
Jalan Anson, 10400 Penang
Tel: 04.222 4000 (TNB careline
15451)
TM (telephone and internet)
Jalan Burmah, 10050
Georgetown, Penang
Hotline: 100
Penang International 45

46 Penang International

“Did we miss
anything?”
The most important
thing to me?
Is to have a smooth and
worry-free relocation
“The experience is never easy, but we
must say that the effectiveness, efficiency
and courtesy of the Crown people in
both places made a huge difference!”
~USA to Switzerland
Crown service offerings include:
International & Domestic Shipment
Transit Insurance
Immigration & Legalization
Home Search
School Search
Global Passport Intercultural Training
Tel: (60) 4 645 1166
penang@crownrelo.com
crownrelo.com/malaysia
Well Connected. Worldwide. TM
Penang International 47

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48 Penang International

ight
& winning
Danielle
grade 5
from the Netherlands
Thank you
The Expat Group, publishers of
Penang International, would like
to offer a note of gratitude to these
leading hotels in Penang for agreeing
to place copies of our magazine in
the rooms of their ne properties. We
are committed to helping visitors to
this special island learn more about
it during their time in Penang, and
we thank the following hotels for
allowing us to communicate to their
guests who have chosen to make
“The Pearl of the Orient” part of their
travel experiences!
On the Academic Honor Roll
in Middle School
Plays basketball and soccer
Has won numerous Penang State
Championships in track and field
Dalat International School educates children in
preschool to grade 12. With more than 470 students
from 28 nations, Dalat is a leader in international
education. The school offers an American, collegepreparatory,
biblical worldview curriculum, and its
academic and boarding programs are fully accredited.
Dalat International School
Tanjung Bunga, 11200 Penang, Malaysia
Email: info@dalat.org
www.dalat.org
1881 Chong Tian Hotel
23 Love Lane
Bayview Beach Resort
Bayview Hotel Georgetown
Campbell House Penang
Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion
Chymes Hotel
Clove Hall
E & O
Evergreen Laurel
Flamingo Hotel
Georgetown City Hotel (Berjaya)
Golden Sands Beach Resort
The Gurney Resort Hotel
Hard Rock Hotel Penang
Hotel Equatorial Penang
Hotel Penaga
Lone Pine Hotel
Malihom
Old Penang Guesthouse
Parkroyal Penang Resort
Rainbow Paradise Beach
Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa
Seven Terraces
The Northam All Suites
Traders Hotel
Vistana Hotel Penang
Penang
Penang International 49

50 Penang International

20 JUNE 8.30PM
E&O HOTEL GRAND BALLROOM
Sutra I Musici
Kumar Mini Concert Gala Concert