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Celebrate Heritage! Hidden Retreat The Road ... - The Expat Group

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architecture<br />

Cultural<br />

Fusion<br />

Penang owes its rich culture<br />

and architectural splendor to<br />

the various races that found a<br />

home on the island during its<br />

years as a port. Kat Fatland<br />

admires the diverse styles<br />

and designs these infl uences<br />

brought to her home city’s<br />

architecture.<br />

IN THE 2008 INSCRIPTION jointly<br />

establishing George Town and Melaka as<br />

World <strong>Heritage</strong> Sites, UNESCO states that<br />

these two towns “constitute a unique<br />

architectural and cultural townscape<br />

without parallel anywhere in East and<br />

Southeast Asia.”<br />

Upon a first read, the statement seems<br />

impossibly bold: after all, there are a<br />

myriad of architecturally interesting cities<br />

all over the region, what could possibly<br />

make Penang and its sister city so special?<br />

<strong>The</strong> answer, in short, is quite a bit. From<br />

Malay kampungs to Anglo Indian bungalows,<br />

from Chinese shophouses to Colonial-style<br />

churches, Penang’s list of international<br />

influences is all-encompassing. Like much<br />

of its heritage, the island’s architectural<br />

style reflects the serendipitous outcome of<br />

cultures coming together.<br />

People and Penang<br />

Penang’s architectural history could be<br />

said to have truly begun in 1786 when<br />

it became a British trading post. Thanks<br />

in part to founder Francis Light’s good<br />

relations with locals and regional traders,<br />

settlers started moving to the island en<br />

masse, coming from Arabia, Siam, India and<br />

China, Indonesia, and mainland Malaya.<br />

Soon, the city could boast a core group of<br />

permanent residents who began to set up<br />

shop throughout the island.<br />

Penang happened to be in a very unique<br />

position to cater to the settlers’ wishes<br />

to bring with them something of their<br />

homeland. Unlike the surrounding areas,<br />

where systems of government could<br />

implement strictures on foreign or local<br />

architectural influence (in nearby Kedah,<br />

for example, no one could build a house<br />

taller than the Sultan’s palace), Penang<br />

could accommodate a host of diverse<br />

customs. Thus, the Indian traders brought<br />

with them their Anglo-Indian traditions,<br />

the Chinese brought their courtyard<br />

houses, and the Europeans brought their<br />

neoclassicist designs.<br />

Adaptation<br />

Smartly, instead of producing replicas<br />

of buildings from their country of<br />

origin, builders took note of what local<br />

Malay houses had to offer and adapted<br />

accordingly. Perfectly suited for the<br />

tropical climes, the typical Malay house<br />

was constructed largely from timber and<br />

atap. <strong>The</strong> houses were stilted to provide<br />

ample ventilation to the rooms above, and<br />

a sloping atap roof offered shade over the<br />

verandah. <strong>The</strong>se features, along with the<br />

building materials, were largely borrowed<br />

by other traditions as they went about<br />

building their own abodes.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Penang bungalow is a particularly<br />

apt example of the blending of many<br />

traditions into one regal household. <strong>The</strong><br />

bungalow, derived from the Hindi term<br />

bungla, originally came to the island via<br />

India. <strong>The</strong>re, the bungalow was a simple<br />

four-walled structure made of mud and<br />

later brick with a low, sweeping roof. <strong>The</strong>se<br />

structures were commonly built for the<br />

lower class, while the upper class resided in<br />

the colonial-style pucka houses, characterised<br />

by their flat roofs, a form exemplified in<br />

Penang’s Suffolk house.<br />

When the bungalow reached Penang<br />

however, it lost all low-class connotations.<br />

Here, the buildings were recreated using<br />

Indian brick masonry and Malay-style<br />

timber. <strong>The</strong> form became popular among<br />

the families of Indian and Arab traders<br />

– the Jawi Peranakans – who chose to<br />

group together their bungalows in typical<br />

Malay kampungs (a term that gave birth<br />

to the English word “compound”). <strong>The</strong><br />

Europeans, who also found the form useful,<br />

married the Malay and Indian traditions<br />

with their own traditions, building huge<br />

two-storey bungalows with well-ventilated<br />

stilted verandahs, sweeping rooftops,<br />

20 Penang International

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