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FRANCOIS DEUMIER* writes in this first of a two part series ... - Lutetia

FRANCOIS DEUMIER* writes in this first of a two part series ... - Lutetia

FRANCOIS DEUMIER* writes in this first of a two part series ... - Lutetia

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<strong>FRANCOIS</strong> <strong>DEUMIER*</strong> <strong>writes</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>this</strong> <strong>first</strong><br />

<strong>of</strong> a <strong>two</strong> <strong>part</strong> <strong>series</strong>, that massagers were<br />

<strong>in</strong>itially designed to ensure the consistent<br />

formulation <strong>of</strong> food us<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>gredients and<br />

additive+ by dry or wet (bdne) processes,<br />

like meat salt<strong>in</strong>g or pickl<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

ood product formulation<br />

<strong>in</strong>volves <strong>in</strong>gredients which are used<br />

for their sensory and/or technological<br />

properties. Some <strong>of</strong> these <strong>in</strong>gredients<br />

are:<br />

. Sodium chloride which acts on<br />

flavour, preservation, prote<strong>in</strong><br />

extraction, technological yield...<br />

. Phosphates which act on cook<strong>in</strong>g<br />

yield, prote<strong>in</strong> extraction, water<br />

hold<strong>in</strong>g capacity<br />

. Nitrite which is the specilic agent<br />

for cur<strong>in</strong>g, which confers a<br />

specific flavour to the meat and<br />

which improves its preservation.<br />

. Sugars which have an action<br />

on colour<strong>in</strong>g, flavour and<br />

technological yield, and<br />

. Antioxidants.<br />

The ma<strong>in</strong> purpose <strong>of</strong> massag<strong>in</strong>g is<br />

to carry out a fast and homogeneous<br />

formulation, and if necessary to<br />

develop certa<strong>in</strong> specific qualities on<br />

the product (e.g. salt-soluble prote<strong>in</strong><br />

extraction).<br />

Massager work<strong>in</strong>g<br />

pr<strong>in</strong>ciples<br />

A massager (picture 1) is a<br />

rotat<strong>in</strong>g cyl<strong>in</strong>drical vat provided<br />

with a baffle which ensures food<br />

blend<strong>in</strong>g and massag<strong>in</strong>g. This vat<br />

can be with a s<strong>in</strong>gle or a double<br />

jacket and it is generally put under<br />

a cont<strong>in</strong>uous vacuum or pulsed<br />

vacuum.<br />

Equipped with temperature probes<br />

- possibly wireless, <strong>of</strong> pressure<br />

sensors <strong>of</strong> revolution counter, <strong>of</strong><br />

weight sensors, <strong>of</strong> a programmable<br />

microprocessor feed<strong>in</strong>g a dataprocess<strong>in</strong>g<br />

supervision system<br />

(picture 2), it allows an accurate and<br />

thorough process control.<br />

Massager flexibility<br />

The massager allows salt<strong>in</strong>g and<br />

pickl<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> most meat and seafood<br />

products. In terms <strong>of</strong> formulation,<br />

the processed productq can be salted,<br />

cured, mar<strong>in</strong>ated or mar<strong>in</strong>ated and<br />

coated.<br />

They can be <strong>in</strong>tended thereafter to<br />

be marketed <strong>in</strong> the state. sterilized.<br />

cooked, sous-vide cooked, dried and/<br />

or smoked or dried, breaded and<br />

fried, etc<br />

Physical mechanisms <strong>of</strong><br />

massag<strong>in</strong>g<br />

Blendrng<br />

While the vat is turn<strong>in</strong>g, the baffle<br />

puts the products <strong>in</strong> motion, raises<br />

them and lets them fall down. The<br />

specilic shape <strong>of</strong> the massager's<br />

baffle def<strong>in</strong>es the relative movement<br />

<strong>of</strong> the meat pieces to each other.<br />

With the number <strong>of</strong> revolutions,<br />

the baffle ensures the homogeneous<br />

blend<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> meat pieces, renew<strong>in</strong>g<br />

the positions <strong>of</strong> the pieces, from the<br />

bottom towards the front and from<br />

the deepest to the surface.<br />

Massag<strong>in</strong>g ffict on meat structure<br />

Massag<strong>in</strong>g respects food structure<br />

much more than mechanical armequipped<br />

mixers and blenders do.<br />

Indeed, dur<strong>in</strong>g massag<strong>in</strong>g, food<br />

does not undergo shear stress. On<br />

the other hand, massag<strong>in</strong>g leads<br />

to fall<strong>in</strong>g and must be used with<br />

caution.<br />

If the structure <strong>of</strong> the product has<br />

AM:PM - May/une 201 l


Picture 2<br />

MALAXEUR 1<br />

2l mbar<br />

0 mbar<br />

{ to be protected, we should advise to<br />

turn slowly and to limit the number<br />

<strong>of</strong> turns. Thus, one will rather<br />

recommend 1000 to 1800 turns for<br />

a superior ham aga<strong>in</strong>st 4000 for a<br />

basic high-yield ham, <strong>in</strong> the section<br />

<strong>of</strong> which the muscle fibre will not be<br />

even recognizable any more. Vacuum<br />

also makes meat denser dur<strong>in</strong>g<br />

massag<strong>in</strong>g, which helps mechanical<br />

work,<br />

For the most fragile products, it<br />

is possible to work with a pendular<br />

mode massag<strong>in</strong>g by mak<strong>in</strong>g cycles<br />

<strong>of</strong> 75o/<strong>of</strong> a turn towards and<br />

ttaen 75o/<strong>of</strong> a turn forwards, thus<br />

prevent<strong>in</strong>g the product from fall<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

Mass transfers dur<strong>in</strong>g massag<strong>in</strong>g<br />

Diffusion mechanisms<br />

Ingredient diffusion phenomena<br />

<strong>in</strong> the meat are slow. Moreover,<br />

heterogeneity <strong>of</strong> the meat is an<br />

important limit<strong>in</strong>g factor, s<strong>in</strong>ce<br />

mass transfers are slowed down by<br />

connective tissue and fat. Ingredient<br />

migration is fastest when parallel to<br />

the direction <strong>of</strong> muscle fibres and<br />

slowest when perpendicular, mak<strong>in</strong>g<br />

meat an anisotropic medium. Dur<strong>in</strong>g<br />

massag<strong>in</strong>g and accord<strong>in</strong>g to the<br />

process parameters, a more or less<br />

important destructuration <strong>of</strong> meat<br />

tissues is reached and it <strong>in</strong>fluences<br />

the physical properties <strong>of</strong> the meat.<br />

Hvdrodvnamic mechanisms<br />

Many foods have a natural porosity<br />

which can be high (e.g. apple) or<br />

low (e.g. meat). Meat porosity is<br />

the consequence <strong>of</strong> the presence <strong>of</strong><br />

PROGRAMME 41 test<br />

NUMERO DE LOT XXXX<br />

TEMPSRESTANT 0h Sm<strong>in</strong><br />

SECTION 4 0h Sm<strong>in</strong><br />

PHASE 3 0m<strong>in</strong>10<br />

I<br />

I<br />

FONCTIONS<br />

Rot"tion<br />

Ma"ns.<br />

f vo"<br />

f vo" tirite<br />

I vide poumon<br />

o<br />

I Bouilleur<br />

f vapeur<br />

! cnaua<br />

! Frold<br />

SORTIES<br />

I Rot"tion<br />

I vo.ng"<br />

I Rorp"<br />

Oeorp.,<br />

Oeorp.,<br />

(| Bouilleur<br />

I wv"p, ,t<br />

O EV sé.. 'ité<br />

(| ctrauo<br />

f nroyc,t<br />

fgEpsj!!ryglulg vap€ur 3270 aêc<br />

deslLe.gggvc!!.9s- sécurtté 3420 sec<br />

The massager allows salt<strong>in</strong>g and pickl<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong><br />

most meat products.<br />

<strong>in</strong>tramuscular and <strong>in</strong>termuscular<br />

spaces and arterial and venous<br />

systems.<br />

This porosity depends on the<br />

pressure and on meat elasticity.<br />

When meat is soaked <strong>in</strong> br<strong>in</strong>e<br />

dur<strong>in</strong>g massag<strong>in</strong>g, meat degasses<br />

when pressure decreases and<br />

aspires br<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong> its pores when<br />

atmospheric pressure is recovered.<br />

These hydrodynamic mechanisms<br />

<strong>in</strong>duce an <strong>in</strong>filtration <strong>of</strong> br<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong><br />

meat structure and thus <strong>in</strong>crease the<br />

exchange surface between meat and<br />

br<strong>in</strong>e.<br />

Prote<strong>in</strong> extraction dur<strong>in</strong>g massag<strong>in</strong>g<br />

Until approximately 40gl<br />

kg, sodium chloride solubilises<br />

myolibrillar prote<strong>in</strong>s by <strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>g<br />

ionic strength. Beyond, prote<strong>in</strong>s<br />

are denatured. Phosphates also<br />

contribute to a better solubilisation<br />

<strong>of</strong> prote<strong>in</strong>s. Indeed, they complex<br />

t}ire Ca2+ ions and thus break<br />

the Ca-bridges between act<strong>in</strong> and<br />

myos<strong>in</strong>. By un-bridg<strong>in</strong>g acto-myos<strong>in</strong>,<br />

phosphates <strong>in</strong>crease solubility <strong>of</strong><br />

muscular prote<strong>in</strong>s.<br />

Dur<strong>in</strong>g massag<strong>in</strong>g, salt and the<br />

phosphates solubilise prote<strong>in</strong>s which<br />

migrate to muscles surface and<br />

which form a'silt'with meat and<br />

fibre fragments, water, <strong>in</strong>gredients<br />

and fat. Thanks to its emulsify<strong>in</strong>g<br />

properties, <strong>this</strong> 'silt' is essential to<br />

ensure the cohesion <strong>of</strong> the sous-vide<br />

cooked products, reconstituted from<br />

various muscles, as cooked pork<br />

ham, cooked beef ham or poultrybased<br />

cooked products. It also allows<br />

a better b<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> meat to the batter<br />

for breaded products.<br />

Prote<strong>in</strong> extraction is enhanced<br />

by the vacuum, which allows<br />

elim<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g air bubbles, It also<br />

<strong>in</strong>creases with temperature. It is<br />

better to work between 6-8'C than<br />

around OoC to optimize prote<strong>in</strong><br />

extraction.<br />

Ideal silt presents a prote<strong>in</strong> content<br />

<strong>of</strong> approximately 10o/o. It is clearly<br />

visible and sticks.<br />

Products stabilization dur<strong>in</strong>g massag<strong>in</strong>g<br />

Vacuum massag<strong>in</strong>g also allows<br />

limit<strong>in</strong>g the development <strong>of</strong><br />

alteration aerobic flora, especially<br />

as the temperature is controlled<br />

throughout the massag<strong>in</strong>g (cooled<br />

double-jacket).<br />

With high rotat<strong>in</strong>g speeds,<br />

the product undergoes a<br />

mechanical heat<strong>in</strong>g prejudicial<br />

to its microbiological quality.<br />

However, after a massag<strong>in</strong>g at high<br />

temperature (more than I2"C),<br />

one may observe small holes <strong>in</strong> the<br />

cooked products.<br />

It is then advisable to make<br />

The processed products can be salted,<br />

cured, mar<strong>in</strong>ated or mar<strong>in</strong>ated and coated.<br />

They can be <strong>in</strong>tended thereafter to be<br />

marketed <strong>in</strong> the state.<br />

AM:PM - May/une 2011


pauses by alternat<strong>in</strong>g static and<br />

dynamic phases - with <strong>of</strong>ten the<br />

obligation to lengthen the process<strong>in</strong>g<br />

time, or to implement a doublejacket.<br />

In terms <strong>of</strong> temperature, we<br />

recommend to worlç between 4-6oC<br />

for good <strong>in</strong>gredients solubilisation,<br />

and ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the diffusion<br />

properties without be<strong>in</strong>g detrimental<br />

to the microbiological quality <strong>of</strong><br />

the products. For the most fragile<br />

products, it is still possible to worlç<br />

around 2'C but with reduced<br />

technological performances.<br />

Effect <strong>of</strong> massag<strong>in</strong>g on cook<strong>in</strong>g yield<br />

Massag<strong>in</strong>g also allows a b<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>of</strong> water and <strong>in</strong>gredients on meat<br />

prote<strong>in</strong>. Because massag<strong>in</strong>g s<strong>of</strong>tens<br />

conjunctive tissue which gives a<br />

structure to the muscle libres, muscle<br />

prote<strong>in</strong>s can occupy <strong>in</strong>terstitial<br />

spaces and to better b<strong>in</strong>d br<strong>in</strong>e<br />

water and <strong>in</strong>gredients. However,<br />

ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g meat structure is<br />

essential for good slic<strong>in</strong>g behaviour<br />

and for keep<strong>in</strong>g a high water<br />

Slow rotation massag<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

hold<strong>in</strong>g capacity. This is the reason<br />

why, nowadays, we recommend<br />

implementation <strong>of</strong> long, slow and<br />

cont<strong>in</strong>uous treatments.<br />

In addition, it seems that optimum<br />

myos<strong>in</strong> extractability is observed<br />

around 2'C, which could expla<strong>in</strong><br />

why hams cook<strong>in</strong>g yield is higher for<br />

20C massag<strong>in</strong>g. Generally, cook<strong>in</strong>g<br />

Iosses are lower for massaged meats<br />

than for non-massaged meats.<br />

Pressure control<br />

Pressure control is also important.<br />

Indeed, a higher level <strong>of</strong> vacuum<br />

does nol accelerale diffusive<br />

mechanisms whereas a too low<br />

vacuum level will lead to vacuum<br />

dry<strong>in</strong>g and cool<strong>in</strong>g. A perfect<br />

control <strong>of</strong> massag<strong>in</strong>g parameters<br />

(vacuum, temperature, mix<strong>in</strong>g...)<br />

- as recommended by LUTETIA - is<br />

essential for formulation control.<br />

Effects <strong>of</strong> massag<strong>in</strong>g on meat prodttcts<br />

quality<br />

Massag<strong>in</strong>g allows obta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g meat<br />

tenderization and a good distribution<br />

<strong>of</strong> the <strong>in</strong>gredients for better juic<strong>in</strong>ess.<br />

Vacuum also helps to ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong> meat<br />

under reduc<strong>in</strong>g conditions and then<br />

colour development.<br />

In the next issue François Deumier<br />

will discuss different modes <strong>of</strong> use<br />

<strong>of</strong> a massager and massag<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the<br />

process l<strong>in</strong>e. r<br />

*Fmrrçois Dennier, PhD (labo@lutetia.fr), is<br />

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AÀ/:PM - I\,4ayljune 201 I

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