Denim+ Lectra Manual.

Emily May Butcher

power / honor / frame / wealth.
-bringing something into existence.
- generate / produce / design / fabricate.
- fashion / build / construct.
- cause something to happen as a result of ones
actions.
- the action of making known ones
thoughts or feelings.
- the conveying of feelings in a work of art.
- a look or emotion of someones face.
ambition to create novel expression.
- an earnest desire for some type of
achievement.
- state or result desired or sought after.
- goal / aim / wish / plan.
- drive / determination / commitment.
- a fictious prose narrative of book length typically representing
character and action with some degree of realism.
- novella staria = new story.
-interesting new or unusual.
- new / original / unfamiliar / unconventional.
- unorthodox / different / creative / modern / pioneering.

- examples of ideas: giving birth / developing
skins / growing hair / cooking / building and construction
/ growing up / 2D to 3D transformation.
- building and architecture is a
massive inspiration interest of
Jonny Johanssons, creative director
of ACNE.
bringing something into existence.
- bringing something into existence links in
with Acne Studios way of working in the sense
that the company puts all their effort into
forming their ideas into an art expression.
- this topic of bringing something into existence has allowed
me to explore the inspirations that help shape the company.
Aswell as what brings in the strong sense of Swedish history
that is involved due to the brand and CEO being Scandinavian.
d+ project topic.

final collection.

a collection inspired by swedish
architecture, formed from the
background of acne studios.

design focus:
length and layering.

designs focus:
rounded shapes + sharp diagonals.

design focus:
multiply layers.

designs focus:
pockets + necklines.

techincal sketches for final collection.

These are my techincal sketches for my final collection for my
D+ project. I used Kaledo to created the outfits and add small
details such as the fastenings, stitching and fit of the garments.
Techincal sketches show you the key details of the clothing
and explain the construction of the garment and are also used
for range plans which is a line up of the collection with the
chosen colours, fabrics and season in which it was created for.

detailed techincal sketch:
front and back of chosen garment.
After having a group dicussion about my designs, it was
chosen that the garment I would make out of my final
collection would be a mens lightweight sleeveless shirt with
overlaying panels and a large patch pocket. In the process to
make the pattern for my garment, I created a detailed techincal
sketch which displayed all the important information such as
the fit of the garment, the length of the panels and the sizing of the
pockets compared to the rest of shirt to give a sense of the propotion.

The next step I took was to use fashion tape and a mens mannequin to measure out on the
body space where I wanted my panels and the hem line to sit on the body, recording down
all the measurements to put into Modaris. After I had got all the measurements for the arm
hole, panels and garment length, I found a mens shirt block to adapt to how I needed it to
be in Modaris. From the block, I lengthed the front and back pieces along with creating a
Grandad collar, a button wrap and the two sized panels all through measuring the block pattern
pieces, adding points and lines to then cut the pieces from. I didn’t face any problems when
building my pattern on Modaris but I did come across errors when trying to print the pattern
after creating the markers. This error message was called ‘paper:095’ and displayed that it had
a problem with the front pattern piece. To solve this issue, I looked over all pieces in Modaris
and then went through and renamed all my files for the pattern and markers, making sure
none of the names had spaces in. This solved the error and my first shirt pattern printed well.
First garment pattern:
Mens sleeveless shirt with panels and pocket.

Paper marker.
A marker is created by using a variant of a
pattern made in Modrais. This is my paper
marker of my first pattern created for my
mens sleevless shirt that I created from a
mens shirt block. Markers are made so all the
pattern pieces are placed in the economical
way for printing, giving you high efficiency.

These fabric markers were created in the same
way as the paper makers; through seperatley made
variants in Modaris but serve a different purpose.
With my fabric markers, I had to make to two different
ones due to different pattern pieces being
different materials, some denim and some
space mesh. Therefore two markers were
needed so I could see how much of each
farbic would be needed for my final garment.
fabric markers.

Testing the fit of the garment is a very important process and can tell you a lot about
the patten it is made from. This process can be done using Modaris and 3D software,
where your pattern is connected and placed onto the mannequin. From this you can
view how the garment will sit and look on the body without even having to print. It
was important to me to see how the main pieces of the garment; the front and the
back would fit the body as these were the main pieces that build the frame for the
garment. I connected my front, back and button wrap pieces together by using the
‘desk of stitches’ tool within Modaris were I stitch each seam together, for example
the shoulders, and the side seams so the garment would be connected in the right
places. I then added split points to the pattern pieces which are indicators to tell
the software which opening goes to which part of the body when placing the garment
on the 3D model, for example, the neck line, arm holes and right or left waist.

I was very pleased with how my pattern looked on the 3D model, I felt
that the garment hung smoothly and had the straight cut look that I was
looking to achieve. I was worried at first about the length of the garment,
however looking on the 3D model at all angles, I learnt that the shirt
finished at a comfortable place meaning that the pocket would sit at
a similar place to the bodies hand, making the use easy. The neckline
was a focus point of me as well, I wanted to check how far up the neck
the neckline sat on the body as my Grandad collar would be short in
height but be fastening around the neck. Therefore I needed to check
where the neck would sit to assure a comfortable fit when fastened.

Once I had created my first toile from the pattern I had made
on Modaris, I had a toile review where we dicussed the fit, the
look, material choices and any changes that needed to be
made to the construction. It was finalised that I would adjust
the fit by dropping the arm holes by 2cm to leave room to layer
clothing underneath. As well as added two invisible pockets,
a yoke and using interfacing within the collar and button wrap.

Images of my model wearing my first toile of my design for my review. These
images show how clean and straight cut the garment is on my model with
enough room in the back for movement and layering. Through the length of
the garment and panels, I could see how putting two invisible pockets on the
right side of the garment would work ergonomically to the body. Also viewing
the toile on a body, I could visualise where abouts the yoke could go and what
measurement would work well with the design, shown in the third image.

Techincal Sketch:
New design: front, back + details.

2nd Modaris pattern:
New pattern with added yoke, invisible pocket
and interfacing pattern pieces for collar and
button wrap.

evaluating construction.
Due to a few problems and changes happening to my final garment, I wanted
to document and evaluate how I tried to solve these construction challenges.
On the center front of the garment, on the left side there is a pin hole
mark made from pinning the layers of fabric together. On the right side of the
button wrap, there is a pull in the fabric due to the thickness of the layers g
oing into the button stand. To try and resolve this, I unpicked the stitches and
tried to ease out the fabric however, there was a fold in the fabric let from where
the tuck had been stitched down but the tuck is a lot better than perviously.

Another problem, similar to the pin hole in the sense that I couldn’t solve
it that well was a stain on the under side of the right hand side panel. The
blue denim had marked the white space mesh and left a circular stain
which I tried to wash out, however it did not fade at all. The last problem
that I faced was a cut in the fabric on the yoke. I noticed this cut after I
had constructed the garment after it had been hanging up ready to press
for a photoshoot therefore I thought it may have been a small cut in the
fabric and then made worst from hanging. To try and resolve this, I hand
stitch from the back and tried to catch the ripped fabric to close the gap.
challenges and resolvutions.

Final garment:
Mens sleeveles shirt with layered panels,
invisible pockets and popper fastening.

I teamed up and collaborated with two photography students
to complete a photoshoot of my final garment in a
style that would fit my chosen company Acne and my project
background. I choose to shoot my final garment in a ‘still’ style
so I could adapt them into a publication and garment tag to
give information to the customer about the inspiration, details
and ideas of how to present the garment in their own way.