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Dand smes yde Barbey d’Aurevilly<br />

à <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

Les Rhumbs<br />

<strong>Musée</strong> <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

Granville<br />

DOSSIER DE PRESSE<br />

exposition présentée<br />

du 1 er mai au 21 septembre 2008<br />

au musée <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> à Granville-Normandie<br />

1808-2008


Dand isms 1808-2008<br />

y<br />

PRESS KIT<br />

1 From Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly to <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>,<br />

two centuries of dandyism<br />

2 From dandy to dandyism<br />

3 From Monsieur <strong>Dior</strong> to the House of <strong>Dior</strong><br />

4 Kaleidoscope of dandyism<br />

5 Exceptional loans and prestigious lenders<br />

6 From the Villa "Les Rhumbs"<br />

to the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum-Garden<br />

7 Events, catalogue and practical information<br />

8 List and captions of the photos<br />

from Barbey d’Aurevilly to <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

Press Contacts<br />

Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />

phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />

catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />

Barbara Jeauffroy<br />

phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />

bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />

Anne Forest<br />

phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />

aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />

www.musee-dior-granville.fr


1 From Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly<br />

to <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>,<br />

two centuries of dandyism<br />

by Jean-Luc Dufresne, head curator<br />

The exhibition Dandysmes 1808-2008, de Barbey d’Aurevilly à <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> opens<br />

a new perspective for the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum at Granville, after the success of the<br />

anniversary cycle 2005/2007 – commemorating the one hundredth anniversary of the<br />

birth of <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> at Granville and the 60 year anniversary of the founding of the<br />

House of <strong>Dior</strong> Avenue Montaigne in Paris. In 2008, its status as a French National<br />

Museum is an invitation to our Museum to resituate <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> within the<br />

history of the relationship between art and fashion. And this is what now enables us<br />

to renew and enrich our approach to exhibitions and their themes, ranging from the spotlighting<br />

of historical and contemporary figures and personalities to proper artistic exhibitions,<br />

particularly as the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> universe is so rich in links and in heritage.<br />

The bicentenary of the birth of Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly (1808-1889) enables us<br />

to unite the region’s most famous writer with <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> himself, who admired<br />

him so much he included him in his 1956 “Bal des Artistes”; a ball that inspired John<br />

Galliano for <strong>Dior</strong>’s 60 year celebrations in 2007. Barbey d’Aurevilly is the author of a work<br />

of reference, Du Dandysme et de George Brummel, a real dandy manifesto published in<br />

1845. This link between Barbey and <strong>Dior</strong>, over a span of two centuries, gives us a new<br />

reading of dandyism from the 18 th to the 21 st century.<br />

The exhibition covers two centuries of fashion in an exchange between writing,<br />

images and objects. It really underlines the correspondences between masculine and<br />

feminine fashion particularly developed in leisure clothes in the 20th century. Feminine<br />

dandyism is certainly evoked by the Amazons but also by the way in which Haute<br />

Couture appropriates references from the “dandy” body, especially in <strong>Dior</strong>’s most stunning<br />

dresses by <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> himself from 1947 to 1957 up to the very latest creations by<br />

John Galliano. Anglomania is also at the heart of this review, covering two centuries<br />

from Byron to Galliano via Cecil Beaton. The presence of numerous portraits and images<br />

fixing the attitudes and the postures of elegant life sets the tone for a playful scenography<br />

where dandyism, the art of avant-garde and off-beat elegance, is reflected in a veritable<br />

set of mirrors: the “icons”, that are the great figures of elegance, are brought together with<br />

a typological series of accessories, while the dress and the forms of the Old Regime<br />

before 1789 are brought face to face with the most recent designs. The scenography by<br />

Frédéric Beauclair, who has just taken part in the exhibition “Quand Versailles était<br />

meublé d’Argent” at the Château of Versailles, and the graphic work of Emmanuel Pierre<br />

underline the importance of the relationship between image and object as well as the<br />

parallels between the different dandy attitudes. The poses of the models are particularly<br />

noteworthy, as is the amalgamation of masculine and feminine and the party spirit that<br />

animated <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> and Cecil Beaton defending a “defiant fashion”. For the first<br />

time, a room in the Museum is especially created around the <strong>Dior</strong> family who lived<br />

in the Villa “Les Rhumbs”. Finally, the exhibition proposes some unexpected<br />

enlightenment on several precise points: the dandyism of “<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Monsieur”<br />

to “<strong>Dior</strong> Homme” and “beauty care” that is treated in a new and original way, this<br />

theme rarely ever having been the object of study or presentation before. The catalogue,<br />

a gathering of viewpoints on the various themes tackled, comprises a kaleidoscope<br />

of images. A cycle of conferences and projections also will be proposed from May<br />

to September. This exhibition is part of the national celebration of the bicentenary<br />

of the birth of Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly in 2008.<br />

Dand isms 1808-2008<br />

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from Barbey d’Aurevilly to <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

PRESS KIT<br />

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Press Contacts<br />

Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />

phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />

catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />

Barbara Jeauffroy<br />

phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />

bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />

Anne Forest<br />

phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />

aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />

www.musee-dior-granville.fr


2 From dandy to dandyism<br />

by Jean-Luc Dufresne, head curator<br />

The dandy came before dandyism. Originally, the dandy gave body to a way of<br />

being that became dandyism, a concept which rests on a paradox: although certainly<br />

embodied by a generational group and personified by very real people, it was also<br />

theorized by the always fugitive and abstract figure of the “ideal dandy”.<br />

Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly (1808 – 1889), for whom the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum at<br />

Granville is contributing to the celebration of the bicentenary of his birth, has partly<br />

escaped this paradox thanks to his book Du Dandysme et de Georges Brummel (1845),<br />

in which, as it happens, Georges Brummel was the very personification of dandyism.<br />

Moreover, the longevity of Barbey d’Aurevilly’s life enabled him to link the generation<br />

that invented dandyism with the one that resuscitated it at the end of the 19 th century.<br />

Thus, Barbey had never been so intriguing than when, a half-century later, he sported<br />

the elegant attitude and apparel of his romantic youth.<br />

The exhibition’s set purpose is precisely to link the generations of dandies through<br />

a gallery of emblematic characters.<br />

Firstly, with elegant Englishmen and the figure of Beau Brummel whose radical posturing<br />

and silhouette already crystallized what goes to making a dandy today. During that<br />

same era, Balzac also wrote at great length about elegance. Alfred de Musset and George<br />

Sand formed an iconic couple. Anglomania was vindicated by this generation which was<br />

more especially embodied by the dashing figure cut by the horseman and the personality<br />

of the Comte d’Orsay, who spent his life between London and Paris.<br />

The following generation saw Baudelaire theorize a dandyism that would be linked<br />

to nostalgia. The poet affected a stylishly neglected “artist’s” appearance and personified<br />

a culture of retreat which announced the spirit of the turn of the century. The generation<br />

of Robert de Montesquiou, Jean Lorrain and Pierre Loti showed a detachment from<br />

the industrial society. Dandies and decadents seemed to become synonymous, their<br />

refinement and ambiguity setting them against the threat of the new barbarians. This<br />

association of the dandy spirit with a reaction to modernity and vulgarity is wittily<br />

summed up by the circle around Oscar Wilde. Robert de Montesquiou (1855-1921)<br />

was a model of Being and Seeming, of Reality and Appearance – an “inspiring model”<br />

<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> would have said – and who, in fact, inspired Huysmans and Proust. The<br />

famous portrait of Montesquiou by Boldini, one of the key pieces in the exhibition,<br />

and the various documents that surround it help us to define the dandy of the Edwardian<br />

era: a true master in the art of posture and gesture, who comes close to Wilde’s famous<br />

epithet: “make one’s life a work of art”.<br />

At the beginning of the 20th century, after the decadent dandy period, came that of<br />

the innovative dandies. The importance of elitist sports as a sign of distinction brought<br />

about the fashion for the golfing suit, for instance.<br />

After the hardships of the Second World War, Cecil Beaton – of whom an outstanding<br />

collection of photographs is presented in the exhibition – and <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> engaged<br />

in a real combat to sustain the exigency of elegance.<br />

England – yet again – in the 1960s saw the appearance of new dandies, true icons<br />

of the “Pop Culture” such as David Bowie, the very personification of dandyism today.<br />

Dand isms 1808-2008<br />

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PRESS KIT<br />

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Press Contacts<br />

6<br />

Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />

phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />

catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />

Barbara Jeauffroy<br />

phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />

bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />

Anne Forest<br />

phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />

aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />

www.musee-dior-granville.fr


3 From Monsieur <strong>Dior</strong> to the House of <strong>Dior</strong><br />

by Barbara Jeauffroy-Mairet and Vincent Leret, co-curators<br />

Within this genealogy, and within this theatre that is dandyism, <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

compels recognition simultaneously as an actor, a decorator and even more notably<br />

as a director, in fact, a veritable demiurge. The grand couturier frequented the front<br />

stage as much as the backstage, illustrated by his taste for disguise since his earliest<br />

childhood and by his friendships and acquaintances with musicians, designers, painters<br />

and writers, such as his early friendship with the decorator and theatre costume designer<br />

<strong>Christian</strong> Bérard. Thus, the couturier willingly indulged in his predilection for fancy<br />

dress at the great balls of the era, metamorphosing himself into the Animal King at the<br />

ultimate “Bal des Rois et des Reines” given in 1949. For the “Bal des Artistes” on the 14 th<br />

of February 1956, organized by the Viscount and Viscountess de Noailles in their sumptuous<br />

town mansion on the place des États-Unis in Paris, the couturier came dressed<br />

as Barbey d’Aurevilly. However, the great couturier always knew how to contrast<br />

the showiness of these grand occasions with the most classic everyday apparel,<br />

although imbued with an indubitable style. Indeed, amongst the emblematic accessories<br />

of dandy dress, the tie was one of <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>’s firm favourites. Thanks to the<br />

installation of his famous “Colifichets” (trinkets) Boutique at the foot of the 30 avenue<br />

Montaigne stairway in 1947, then by the granting of licenses for stockings and ties in 1949<br />

and 1950, <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> was to appeal to both a male and female clientele with<br />

what are now two universal and must-have accessories. The tie has now become the<br />

accessory that symbolizes and highlights men’s attire. Today, Kris Van Assche, Artistic<br />

Director of <strong>Dior</strong> Homme, pursues the tradition with a seven-day set of ties worn by<br />

Monsieur <strong>Dior</strong> entirely created from archive photos. We know that <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

attached a lot of importance to the quality of his grooming and dress through personal<br />

belongings that have been passed on to us, like his watch, his gold cigarette case with his<br />

initials engraved on the inside, his diary, his made to measure hats from chez Gelot and<br />

his Louis Vuitton luggage.<br />

With regard to fragrances, Eau Fraîche by <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>, launched in 1953, was the<br />

very first unisex fragrance with its design highlighted by a little dandy touch, a black<br />

ribbon looped into a bow around the stopper. Fond of these parallels between feminine<br />

and masculine, <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> chose the houndstooth pattern, a fabric usually reserved<br />

for male elegance, to dress up Miss <strong>Dior</strong>. This tradition of mixing and crossing made<br />

a strong statement in 1966 with Eau Sauvage which marked a major turn in the<br />

history of fragrances for men. For the first time, a perfumer shook up the conventional<br />

recipes for Colognes by adding a very floral note. Eau Sauvage is the emblem of the spirit<br />

of an era leaning towards the liberalisation of moral standards and the cross-over of<br />

genders, symbolized by the bottle’s fluting evoking a dress pleat and its stopper recalling<br />

a thimble. This fragrance invited men at long last to get out of the olfactory rut of the<br />

first half of the 20 th century and to entertain a new and complex-free relationship<br />

with flowers. The great <strong>Dior</strong> men’s fragrances often use unprecedented floral facets:<br />

violet for Fahrenheit in 1988 or Iris from Tuscany for <strong>Dior</strong> Homme in 2005. <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

Parfums has always been close to dandy refinement, as much through its olfactory expertise<br />

as through the determination of its creators to impose a new reading of masculine<br />

fragrances.<br />

Dand isms 1808-2008<br />

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from Barbey d’Aurevilly to <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

PRESS KIT<br />

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Press Contacts<br />

Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />

phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />

catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />

Barbara Jeauffroy<br />

phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />

bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />

Anne Forest<br />

phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />

aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />

www.musee-dior-granville.fr


4 Kaleidoscope of dandyism<br />

extracts from the catalogue<br />

including John Galliano and Kris Van Assche<br />

Balzac called elegant women the small sex.<br />

As the term is not our own, we can paraphrase it.<br />

Elegance is the small sex of beauty.<br />

Barbey d’Aurevilly, De l’élégance, 1843<br />

Dandyism is like a setting sun; like the falling star,<br />

it is superb, without warmth and full of melancholy.<br />

Charles Baudelaire, Le Peintre de la vie moderne, 1863<br />

Idleness is the condition for perfection.<br />

The objective of perfection is youth.<br />

Oscar Wilde, Aphorismes, 1890<br />

Byron is a sybarite but a Spartan sybarite,<br />

who adores truffles and champagne but who, nonetheless,<br />

likes black bread and fresh water.<br />

Gabriel Matzneff, La diététique de Lord Byron, 1984<br />

The dandy is only fecund in the imagination of others.<br />

He puts all his dynamics into the quest for an ideal<br />

he cannot attain.<br />

Françoise Dolto, Splendeurs et misère du dandysme, 1986<br />

Dand isms 1808-2008<br />

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PRESS KIT<br />

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Press Contacts<br />

Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />

phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />

catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />

Barbara Jeauffroy<br />

phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />

bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />

Anne Forest<br />

phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />

aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />

www.musee-dior-granville.fr


4 …<br />

» The dandy dream by John Galliano<br />

»<br />

“One should either be a work of Art, or wear a work of Art’, wrote the iconic<br />

English dandy Oscar Wilde. I am thrilled to be part of this exhibition<br />

on ‘Dandyism’ at the <strong>Dior</strong> museum. Granville is the perfect location to celebrate<br />

the 200th anniversary of writer Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly and bring together an eclectic<br />

collection of dandies. Dandies at <strong>Dior</strong> and dandies who inspire <strong>Dior</strong>; there is<br />

such a rich source to choose from. Dandies have led and inspired the arts world since<br />

they first flounced onto the 18th century scene in England. It’s only fitting that<br />

<strong>Dior</strong> can salute this group of decadent dreamers and arbiters of style(…)<br />

The dapper dandy is a chameleon that moves with the times and trends<br />

and isn’t afraid to give their own extreme take on luxury. Style is conviction<br />

after all, and they live the dream… now who does this sound like to you?<br />

Frivolity and frock coats aside, I hope that this exhibition, or a biography of these<br />

featured heroes, will show you there is more to the dandy than simply being<br />

a dedicated follower of fashion and a catwalk finale! To make a mark on history<br />

you have to turn a few heads. This exhibition brings together some of the most iconic<br />

and inspiring dandies. From Cocteau to David Bowie, Baudelaire to Beaton<br />

and Mr. <strong>Dior</strong>’s grand costume balls, the dandy motto must be ‘dress to impress’.<br />

You will see every detail, every accessory and every line of poetry is perfect<br />

for the mood and the moment (…)<br />

I have worked with, and been inspired by, many dandies, just as Mr. <strong>Dior</strong><br />

himself was. Dandies are dreamers who dared. To live as art, or to wear art,<br />

has inspired me personally, as well as professionally (…)<br />

I hope to be a modern day dandy – to live the dream and to feed the dreams of<br />

others. Life is a work of art – so wear it and wow in it! Why run away from adventure?<br />

Live it, love it and enjoy the dandy dream!<br />

John Galliano, Paris, the 25th of February 2008<br />

Dandyism by Kris Van Assche<br />

“I entertain a complex relationship with Dandyism.<br />

Dandy… This essential figure of the 19th century, taken out of its historical context,<br />

seems a far cry from our Modernity. And yet today, it is constantly invited<br />

to signify masculine elegance, to characterize the quest for a subtle elegance.<br />

But what is the real heritage of this founding movement? Considering the origin<br />

of this movement, Dandyism speaks to me when it reflects on a different<br />

lifestyle where Appearance is not frivolous but profound and courageous.<br />

Then I rediscover what is important to me, this search for a radical sophistication,<br />

for a new nobleness of soul. It is in this sense that I admire those new “dandies”<br />

that are in my eye, the painter Jacques Monory or the pop star Justin Timberlake.<br />

They perpetuate with panache that attitude which aims at the perfect equation<br />

between Being and Seeming, between Reality and Appearance. They embody<br />

Modernity and at the same time have inherited from dandyism that essential<br />

attitude which constructs them in the eyes of others.<br />

Kris Van Assche, Paris, the 14th March 2008<br />

Dand isms 1808-2008<br />

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from Barbey d’Aurevilly to <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

PRESS KIT<br />

(These quotes are extracts from the<br />

catalogue for the exhibition “Dandysmes<br />

1808-2008 de Barbey d’Aurevilly<br />

à <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>”.)<br />

12<br />

13<br />

Press Contacts<br />

Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />

phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />

catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />

Barbara Jeauffroy<br />

phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />

bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />

Anne Forest<br />

phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />

aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />

www.musee-dior-granville.fr


5 Exceptional loans<br />

and prestigious lenders<br />

On the occasion of the “Dandyisms” exhibition, the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />

at Granville has brought together an exceptional set of exhibits composed partly<br />

by works of art, rare and precious objects and fashion designs from the collections<br />

of public and private lenders and partly by emblematic pieces from the <strong>Dior</strong> heritage<br />

belonging to the Granville Museum and to the collections of <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Couture<br />

and <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Parfums.<br />

Moreover, the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum at Granville has made a series of acquisitions<br />

of costumes and documents that allows it to present, for the first time, elegant children’s<br />

clothes, very rare men’s fashion magazines and a unique bequest dedicated to the history<br />

of perfumes and cosmetics.<br />

Leading French Museums have also committed themselves to this exhibition with the<br />

<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum at Granville by loaning some prestigious works:<br />

- the Museum of the Châteaux of Versailles and Trianon has accepted to loan the<br />

most famous portrait of Barbey d’Aurevilly, by Emile Lévy, for an unprecedented<br />

presentation outside of its walls.<br />

- the famous great portrait of Montesquiou by Boldini will be loaned by the Orsay<br />

Museum accompanied by various documents evoking this Proust-like figure.<br />

- the Palais Galliera, the City of Paris Fashion Museum, has selected some typological<br />

elements from the 19th century for us.<br />

- the Maison de Balzac is loaning the mythical “turquoise cane” belonging to the author<br />

of “The Human Comedy”<br />

- the Carnavalet Museum is loaning three paintings: le Pavillon d’Armenonville, soir de<br />

Grand Prix by Henri Gervex, portrait of Jean Lorrain by Antoine de La Gandara and<br />

a self portrait of the Comtesse de Greffuhle.<br />

- the <strong>Musée</strong> des Arts Décoratifs of Paris, is loaning rare and precious objects having<br />

belonged to illustrious dandies: Barbey but also Alfred de Musset or the Baron de Redé.<br />

- the mood of elite society at the turn of the 20 th century will be rendered by the portraits<br />

of elegant writers (Paul Morand, Jean Cocteau) by Jacques Émile Blanche and elegant<br />

sportsmen by Boutet de Monvel (Museums of Rouen and Boulogne-Billancourt)<br />

- the Barbey d’Aurevilly Museum has been willing to loan Barbey d’Aurevilly’s wardrobe,<br />

some amazing caricatures as well as a set of manuscripts relative to the writing<br />

of the book Du Dandysme et de Georges Brummell<br />

- numerous pieces will come from private collections of accessories and perfumes (<strong>Musée</strong><br />

national du Château de Malmaison, Baccarat, Guerlain, Louis Vuitton, Patrimoine<br />

Lanvin) or loaned by enlightened amateurs of the “dandy” phenomenon<br />

(Anouschka, Didier Ludot, Alexis Mabille, Georges Stam, Gilbert Segas,<br />

Falbalas, Joseph Avrilleau, Merlin Hollande, Oscar Wilde’s grandson,<br />

Franck Salle) and galleries (Talabardon et Gautier).<br />

Dand isms 1808-2008<br />

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PRESS KIT<br />

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Press Contacts<br />

Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />

phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />

catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />

Barbara Jeauffroy<br />

phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />

bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />

Anne Forest<br />

phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />

aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />

www.musee-dior-granville.fr


6 From the Villa “Les Rhumbs”<br />

to the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum-Garden<br />

19 20 21<br />

Born on the 21 st of January 1905 in Granville, a seaside resort on the Channel,<br />

<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> spent his early childhood years at “Les Rhumbs, a pink and grey<br />

villa overlooking the sea. The <strong>Dior</strong>s were a prominent family of industrialists in the<br />

region: the main business, located at Granville, being the biggest fertilizer factory in the<br />

west of France. <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>’s mother, Madeleine Martin, brought to this family of<br />

entrepreneurs all the traditions of a refined upper class lifestyle with her stylishly elegant<br />

taste and clothes. It was she who transformed the house into a villa surrounded by a<br />

garden that she had arranged like an English park. Like a lot of upper class children<br />

born before 1914, <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> would feel a great nostalgia for this Edwardian lifestyle.<br />

He inherited his mother’s passion for gardens and developed his taste for parties and<br />

fancy dress costumes, secret alcoves and old styles. Then, because of the diplomatic<br />

career wished for by his parents - a career at odds with his own desire to study the Fine<br />

Arts - he went to live in Paris and enrolled at the School of Political Sciences. However,<br />

he was more motivated by the arts and music and met, amongst others, the musician<br />

Henri Sauguet, the painter <strong>Christian</strong> Bérard and the historian Pierre Gaxotte.<br />

After his military service in 1927, <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> decided to open an art gallery<br />

where he exhibited Picasso, Matisse, Dufy, Bérard, Dali… In 1935, he became a fashion<br />

illustrator for the Figaro. He was employed by Robert Piguet as a designer in 1938 then<br />

by Lucien Lelong in 1942 and it was in 1946 thanks to the Boussac group, that he<br />

opened his own fashion house at 30 Avenue Montaigne. The house of <strong>Christian</strong><br />

<strong>Dior</strong> was created and caused the New Look revolution with his first show on the<br />

12 th of February 1947.<br />

40 years after the creation of the Fashion House, Jean-Luc Dufresne proposed the<br />

transformation of the villa “Les Rhumbs” into a Museum in the aim of evoking the career<br />

and personality of the couturier. Acquired by the town of Granville in 1938, following<br />

the great reversal in fortune of <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>’s father, the domain had been transformed<br />

into a public garden.<br />

Since 1991, supported by the association “Présence de <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>”, the villa<br />

has alternated construction work and exhibitions. As from 1997, each floor has been<br />

refurbished like a fashion museum: costumes and accessories are presented in roomshowcases.<br />

The Museum’s collections regroup numerous souvenirs of <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

(portraits, mementos such as the couturier’s star, scissors, diary and watch), collections<br />

illustrating the history of fashion and reconstituting the artistic and cultural context of<br />

the couturier as well as <strong>Dior</strong> Haute Couture and Ready-to-Wear styles. There are also<br />

numerous accessories such as shoes, hats, jewellery, perfume bottles, a bequest of documents<br />

including photographs and fashion designs or even artists’ works dating from<br />

the years between the two world wars.<br />

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Press Contacts<br />

Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />

phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />

catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />

Barbara Jeauffroy<br />

phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />

bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />

Anne Forest<br />

phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />

aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />

www.musee-dior-granville.fr


7 Animations, catalogue<br />

practical information<br />

The events and animations around the exhibition<br />

“Dandyisms 1808-2008, from Barbey d’Aurevilly<br />

to <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>”<br />

Perfume workshops<br />

The workshops take place in the <strong>Dior</strong> family’s former reading room<br />

located in the garden (left corner) every Wednesday between the<br />

4 th of June and the 17 th of September 2008, at 3, 4 and 5 pm for<br />

small groups (maximum 10 people) on reservation.<br />

Museum Night and French Patrimony Days<br />

On the occasion of the Museum Night, the 17 th May 2008,<br />

The <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum will be free to the public from<br />

8.00 pm to half past midnight. During the French Patrimony<br />

Days, on the 20 th and 21 st of September next, the <strong>Christian</strong><br />

<strong>Dior</strong> Museum will propose entrance tickets at half price, 3 € .<br />

Rendezvous in the gardens<br />

In partnership with the town of Granville, the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

Museum and Garden will take part in the Rendezvous in the<br />

gardens, a national operation mounted by the Ministry of Culture,<br />

on the 30 th and 31 st of May and the 1 st of June 2008 and will set<br />

up a program of free events on the theme of exotic plants.<br />

Permanent information about the garden’s history is currently<br />

being developed.<br />

Light shows<br />

Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday evening during the months of<br />

July and August, the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum and Garden will be<br />

illuminated at dusk.<br />

Program of conferences and projections<br />

A monthly cycle of conferences and projections on Barbey<br />

d’Aurevilly’s universe and dandyism in general, including the<br />

films Le rideau d’Alexandre Astruc, 1953 and Une vieille maitresse<br />

by Catherine Breillat.<br />

The authors-conference givers invited are: Daniel Salvatore<br />

Schiffer, Marguerite Champeaux-Rousselot, Farid Chenoune,<br />

Marie-Christine Matta, Philippe Thiebaut…<br />

The museum’s shop will present a selection of books including<br />

the essay by Barbey d’Aurevilly Du Dandysme et de Georges<br />

Brummel and the book Philosophie du Dandysme : une esthétique<br />

de l’âme et du corps by Daniel Savatore Schiffer, published in<br />

march 2008 by PUF.<br />

For more details concerning the calendar and the themes log onto<br />

www.musee-dior-granville.com<br />

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Publications<br />

- The exhibition’s book-catalogue (17 x 24 cm) in four-colour<br />

printing, bound and co-published by the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />

and Editions Artlys, 96 pages, 19,50 € - Under the direction of<br />

Jean-Luc Dufresne in collaboration with Marguerite Rousselot,<br />

Barbara Jeauffroy, Erwan de Fligues and Vincent Leret, with<br />

texts by John Galliano and Kris Van Assche.<br />

- Le guide du musée et jardin <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> co-published by the<br />

<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum and Editions Artlys 32 pages 8 € .<br />

Opening times and entrance fees<br />

- The museum is open from the 1st of May to the 21st of September<br />

2008, everyday without interruption from 10 am to 6.30 pm.<br />

Open visit. Boutique inside the museum, a tea room and audiovisual<br />

space (free access) outside<br />

- The garden is open all year round and is free with open access<br />

from September to June, from 9 am to 8 pm except in July and<br />

August open till 9 pm<br />

- Entrance fee: normal: 6€ / reduced (handicapped visitors,<br />

unemployed, students: 4€ / family (minimum 4 people): 18€<br />

Free for all members of the association “Présence de <strong>Christian</strong><br />

<strong>Dior</strong>”.<br />

Conditions for group visits<br />

- Group entrance fee: 3€ per person for 20 people upwards.<br />

Reservations (compulsory) at 02 33 61 48 21. On arrival there is<br />

an introductory presentation of the exhibition lasting about 15<br />

minutes then an open visit inside the museum (45 minutes for<br />

the Museum; 1h30 for the Museum and Garden).<br />

How to get there<br />

- A13 Motorway Paris/Caen then the A84 between Caen and<br />

Granville direction Rennes/ Le Mont Saint- Michel (3 hours)<br />

- Granville SNCF railway station, daily links with Paris<br />

(Montparnasse /Vaugirard), Caen and Rennes.<br />

For further information<br />

<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum and Garden, Villa “Les Rhumbs”,<br />

rue d’Estouteville - 50400- Granville<br />

e-mail : museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />

www.musee-dior-granville.com<br />

Press Contacts<br />

Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />

phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />

catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />

Barbara Jeauffroy<br />

phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />

bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />

Anne Forest<br />

phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />

aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />

www.musee-dior-granville.fr


8 List and captions of the photos<br />

Cover:<br />

Gisele Bündchen inspired by Irving Penn<br />

HC AH 2007-2008 © <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Couture<br />

Dandys, drawings and collages by<br />

Emmanuel Pierre<br />

© copyright musée <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

1 Emile Lévy, Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly<br />

(1808-1889) novelist, 1881 Versailles,<br />

Châteaux de Versailles et de Trianon<br />

© RMN/<strong>Christian</strong> Jean / Hervé<br />

Lewandowski<br />

2 Giovanni Boldini, Le Comte Robert<br />

de Montesquiou (1855-1921), writer,<br />

1897<br />

© RMN/ Hervé Lewandowski<br />

3 <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> disguised as Barbey<br />

d’Aurevilly at the Bal des Artistes<br />

in Paris, on the 14th of February 1956.<br />

© André Ostier<br />

4 Bastien Lepage,<br />

Portrait de Jeune Garçon<br />

© Galerie Talabardon et Gautier<br />

5 Jacques-Émile Blanche,<br />

Étude pour le portrait de Jean Cocteau,<br />

1923, H/T, 91,5 x 72,7 cm.<br />

<strong>Musée</strong> des Beaux-Arts de la ville<br />

de Rouen.<br />

Photo Catherine Lancien<br />

© Catherine Lancien<br />

6 Box for Parfums d’Orsay depicting<br />

Le chevalier d’Orsay dessinant<br />

le portrait de Byron,<br />

by Jean Cocteau, 1956<br />

© ADAGP<br />

7 Golfing suit, around 1930.<br />

Tweed jacket with pointed lapels,<br />

half-belt and darts in the back,<br />

houndstooth wool knickerbockers,<br />

check patterned socks.<br />

Collection Falbalas, Photo L. Le Guyader<br />

© musée <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

8 <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> as the Animal King<br />

Photo Keystone © Keystone<br />

9 <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> in a white suit<br />

sitting on a low wall<br />

© DR<br />

10 Eau Noire, Cologne Blanche<br />

and Bois d’Argent, exclusive Colognes<br />

made for <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Parfums<br />

under the direction of Hedi Slimane<br />

in 2004.<br />

© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Parfums<br />

11 Dandys, drawings and collages,<br />

by Emmanuel Pierre<br />

© musée <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

Dand isms 1808-2008<br />

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12 John Galliano by Paolo Roversi<br />

© Paolo Roversi<br />

13 Kris Van Assche by Jeff Burton<br />

© <strong>Dior</strong><br />

14 Bow ties, Alexis Mabille,<br />

Impasse 13<br />

© DR<br />

15 Gloves belonging to<br />

Barbey d’Aurevilly,<br />

<strong>Musée</strong> Barbey d’Aurevilly<br />

© DR<br />

16 Oscar Wilde in a fur coat leaving<br />

for the United States in 1881<br />

Photo Elliot and Fry © DR<br />

17 Back view of dressing gown in floral<br />

brocaded light blue satin with<br />

6 gold and silver petals,<br />

around 1825, <strong>Musée</strong> de la Mode<br />

de la Ville de Paris, Galliera<br />

Photo L. Le Guyader<br />

© <strong>Musée</strong> <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

18 Turquoise cane belonging to Balzac,<br />

Le Cointe 1834, Maison de Balzac Paris<br />

© Maison de Balzac / Roger Viollet<br />

19 Villa “Les Rhumbs” the current<br />

<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum, Granville<br />

Stereochrome 1930.<br />

Photo Vasseur <strong>Dior</strong><br />

© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />

20 Villa “Les Rhumbs”,<br />

<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum, Granville<br />

Photo Anne Forest<br />

© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />

21 Villa “Les Rhumbs”<br />

<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum, Granville<br />

Photo Vincent Leret<br />

© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />

22 <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> and his sister Jacqueline<br />

© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />

23 <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> and his brothers<br />

and sisters in 1920<br />

© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />

24 Perfume workshop<br />

at the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />

Photo Anne Forest<br />

© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />

25 Illumination of the Villa “Les Rhumbs”<br />

Photo Thierry Seni<br />

© town of Granville<br />

26 Gisele Bündchen inspired<br />

by Irving Penn HC FW 2007-2008<br />

© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Couture<br />

from Barbey d’Aurevilly to <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />

The photos on the back cover will be available<br />

on the museum’s website.<br />

Press Contacts<br />

Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />

phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />

catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />

Barbara Jeauffroy<br />

phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />

bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />

Anne Forest<br />

phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />

aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />

www.musee-dior-granville.fr<br />

26


Portrait de Jean Galliano © Photo par Jean-Baptiste Mondino<br />

conception _ atelier Juliane Cordes _ cordes.juliane@gmail.com

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