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Dand smes yde Barbey d’Aurevilly<br />
à <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />
Les Rhumbs<br />
<strong>Musée</strong> <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />
Granville<br />
DOSSIER DE PRESSE<br />
exposition présentée<br />
du 1 er mai au 21 septembre 2008<br />
au musée <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> à Granville-Normandie<br />
1808-2008
Dand isms 1808-2008<br />
y<br />
PRESS KIT<br />
1 From Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly to <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>,<br />
two centuries of dandyism<br />
2 From dandy to dandyism<br />
3 From Monsieur <strong>Dior</strong> to the House of <strong>Dior</strong><br />
4 Kaleidoscope of dandyism<br />
5 Exceptional loans and prestigious lenders<br />
6 From the Villa "Les Rhumbs"<br />
to the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum-Garden<br />
7 Events, catalogue and practical information<br />
8 List and captions of the photos<br />
from Barbey d’Aurevilly to <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />
Press Contacts<br />
Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />
phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />
catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />
Barbara Jeauffroy<br />
phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />
bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />
Anne Forest<br />
phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />
aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />
www.musee-dior-granville.fr
1 From Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly<br />
to <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>,<br />
two centuries of dandyism<br />
by Jean-Luc Dufresne, head curator<br />
The exhibition Dandysmes 1808-2008, de Barbey d’Aurevilly à <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> opens<br />
a new perspective for the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum at Granville, after the success of the<br />
anniversary cycle 2005/2007 – commemorating the one hundredth anniversary of the<br />
birth of <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> at Granville and the 60 year anniversary of the founding of the<br />
House of <strong>Dior</strong> Avenue Montaigne in Paris. In 2008, its status as a French National<br />
Museum is an invitation to our Museum to resituate <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> within the<br />
history of the relationship between art and fashion. And this is what now enables us<br />
to renew and enrich our approach to exhibitions and their themes, ranging from the spotlighting<br />
of historical and contemporary figures and personalities to proper artistic exhibitions,<br />
particularly as the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> universe is so rich in links and in heritage.<br />
The bicentenary of the birth of Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly (1808-1889) enables us<br />
to unite the region’s most famous writer with <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> himself, who admired<br />
him so much he included him in his 1956 “Bal des Artistes”; a ball that inspired John<br />
Galliano for <strong>Dior</strong>’s 60 year celebrations in 2007. Barbey d’Aurevilly is the author of a work<br />
of reference, Du Dandysme et de George Brummel, a real dandy manifesto published in<br />
1845. This link between Barbey and <strong>Dior</strong>, over a span of two centuries, gives us a new<br />
reading of dandyism from the 18 th to the 21 st century.<br />
The exhibition covers two centuries of fashion in an exchange between writing,<br />
images and objects. It really underlines the correspondences between masculine and<br />
feminine fashion particularly developed in leisure clothes in the 20th century. Feminine<br />
dandyism is certainly evoked by the Amazons but also by the way in which Haute<br />
Couture appropriates references from the “dandy” body, especially in <strong>Dior</strong>’s most stunning<br />
dresses by <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> himself from 1947 to 1957 up to the very latest creations by<br />
John Galliano. Anglomania is also at the heart of this review, covering two centuries<br />
from Byron to Galliano via Cecil Beaton. The presence of numerous portraits and images<br />
fixing the attitudes and the postures of elegant life sets the tone for a playful scenography<br />
where dandyism, the art of avant-garde and off-beat elegance, is reflected in a veritable<br />
set of mirrors: the “icons”, that are the great figures of elegance, are brought together with<br />
a typological series of accessories, while the dress and the forms of the Old Regime<br />
before 1789 are brought face to face with the most recent designs. The scenography by<br />
Frédéric Beauclair, who has just taken part in the exhibition “Quand Versailles était<br />
meublé d’Argent” at the Château of Versailles, and the graphic work of Emmanuel Pierre<br />
underline the importance of the relationship between image and object as well as the<br />
parallels between the different dandy attitudes. The poses of the models are particularly<br />
noteworthy, as is the amalgamation of masculine and feminine and the party spirit that<br />
animated <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> and Cecil Beaton defending a “defiant fashion”. For the first<br />
time, a room in the Museum is especially created around the <strong>Dior</strong> family who lived<br />
in the Villa “Les Rhumbs”. Finally, the exhibition proposes some unexpected<br />
enlightenment on several precise points: the dandyism of “<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Monsieur”<br />
to “<strong>Dior</strong> Homme” and “beauty care” that is treated in a new and original way, this<br />
theme rarely ever having been the object of study or presentation before. The catalogue,<br />
a gathering of viewpoints on the various themes tackled, comprises a kaleidoscope<br />
of images. A cycle of conferences and projections also will be proposed from May<br />
to September. This exhibition is part of the national celebration of the bicentenary<br />
of the birth of Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly in 2008.<br />
Dand isms 1808-2008<br />
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PRESS KIT<br />
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Press Contacts<br />
Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />
phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />
catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />
Barbara Jeauffroy<br />
phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />
bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />
Anne Forest<br />
phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />
aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />
www.musee-dior-granville.fr
2 From dandy to dandyism<br />
by Jean-Luc Dufresne, head curator<br />
The dandy came before dandyism. Originally, the dandy gave body to a way of<br />
being that became dandyism, a concept which rests on a paradox: although certainly<br />
embodied by a generational group and personified by very real people, it was also<br />
theorized by the always fugitive and abstract figure of the “ideal dandy”.<br />
Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly (1808 – 1889), for whom the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum at<br />
Granville is contributing to the celebration of the bicentenary of his birth, has partly<br />
escaped this paradox thanks to his book Du Dandysme et de Georges Brummel (1845),<br />
in which, as it happens, Georges Brummel was the very personification of dandyism.<br />
Moreover, the longevity of Barbey d’Aurevilly’s life enabled him to link the generation<br />
that invented dandyism with the one that resuscitated it at the end of the 19 th century.<br />
Thus, Barbey had never been so intriguing than when, a half-century later, he sported<br />
the elegant attitude and apparel of his romantic youth.<br />
The exhibition’s set purpose is precisely to link the generations of dandies through<br />
a gallery of emblematic characters.<br />
Firstly, with elegant Englishmen and the figure of Beau Brummel whose radical posturing<br />
and silhouette already crystallized what goes to making a dandy today. During that<br />
same era, Balzac also wrote at great length about elegance. Alfred de Musset and George<br />
Sand formed an iconic couple. Anglomania was vindicated by this generation which was<br />
more especially embodied by the dashing figure cut by the horseman and the personality<br />
of the Comte d’Orsay, who spent his life between London and Paris.<br />
The following generation saw Baudelaire theorize a dandyism that would be linked<br />
to nostalgia. The poet affected a stylishly neglected “artist’s” appearance and personified<br />
a culture of retreat which announced the spirit of the turn of the century. The generation<br />
of Robert de Montesquiou, Jean Lorrain and Pierre Loti showed a detachment from<br />
the industrial society. Dandies and decadents seemed to become synonymous, their<br />
refinement and ambiguity setting them against the threat of the new barbarians. This<br />
association of the dandy spirit with a reaction to modernity and vulgarity is wittily<br />
summed up by the circle around Oscar Wilde. Robert de Montesquiou (1855-1921)<br />
was a model of Being and Seeming, of Reality and Appearance – an “inspiring model”<br />
<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> would have said – and who, in fact, inspired Huysmans and Proust. The<br />
famous portrait of Montesquiou by Boldini, one of the key pieces in the exhibition,<br />
and the various documents that surround it help us to define the dandy of the Edwardian<br />
era: a true master in the art of posture and gesture, who comes close to Wilde’s famous<br />
epithet: “make one’s life a work of art”.<br />
At the beginning of the 20th century, after the decadent dandy period, came that of<br />
the innovative dandies. The importance of elitist sports as a sign of distinction brought<br />
about the fashion for the golfing suit, for instance.<br />
After the hardships of the Second World War, Cecil Beaton – of whom an outstanding<br />
collection of photographs is presented in the exhibition – and <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> engaged<br />
in a real combat to sustain the exigency of elegance.<br />
England – yet again – in the 1960s saw the appearance of new dandies, true icons<br />
of the “Pop Culture” such as David Bowie, the very personification of dandyism today.<br />
Dand isms 1808-2008<br />
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PRESS KIT<br />
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Press Contacts<br />
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Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />
phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />
catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />
Barbara Jeauffroy<br />
phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />
bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />
Anne Forest<br />
phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />
aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />
www.musee-dior-granville.fr
3 From Monsieur <strong>Dior</strong> to the House of <strong>Dior</strong><br />
by Barbara Jeauffroy-Mairet and Vincent Leret, co-curators<br />
Within this genealogy, and within this theatre that is dandyism, <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />
compels recognition simultaneously as an actor, a decorator and even more notably<br />
as a director, in fact, a veritable demiurge. The grand couturier frequented the front<br />
stage as much as the backstage, illustrated by his taste for disguise since his earliest<br />
childhood and by his friendships and acquaintances with musicians, designers, painters<br />
and writers, such as his early friendship with the decorator and theatre costume designer<br />
<strong>Christian</strong> Bérard. Thus, the couturier willingly indulged in his predilection for fancy<br />
dress at the great balls of the era, metamorphosing himself into the Animal King at the<br />
ultimate “Bal des Rois et des Reines” given in 1949. For the “Bal des Artistes” on the 14 th<br />
of February 1956, organized by the Viscount and Viscountess de Noailles in their sumptuous<br />
town mansion on the place des États-Unis in Paris, the couturier came dressed<br />
as Barbey d’Aurevilly. However, the great couturier always knew how to contrast<br />
the showiness of these grand occasions with the most classic everyday apparel,<br />
although imbued with an indubitable style. Indeed, amongst the emblematic accessories<br />
of dandy dress, the tie was one of <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>’s firm favourites. Thanks to the<br />
installation of his famous “Colifichets” (trinkets) Boutique at the foot of the 30 avenue<br />
Montaigne stairway in 1947, then by the granting of licenses for stockings and ties in 1949<br />
and 1950, <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> was to appeal to both a male and female clientele with<br />
what are now two universal and must-have accessories. The tie has now become the<br />
accessory that symbolizes and highlights men’s attire. Today, Kris Van Assche, Artistic<br />
Director of <strong>Dior</strong> Homme, pursues the tradition with a seven-day set of ties worn by<br />
Monsieur <strong>Dior</strong> entirely created from archive photos. We know that <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />
attached a lot of importance to the quality of his grooming and dress through personal<br />
belongings that have been passed on to us, like his watch, his gold cigarette case with his<br />
initials engraved on the inside, his diary, his made to measure hats from chez Gelot and<br />
his Louis Vuitton luggage.<br />
With regard to fragrances, Eau Fraîche by <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>, launched in 1953, was the<br />
very first unisex fragrance with its design highlighted by a little dandy touch, a black<br />
ribbon looped into a bow around the stopper. Fond of these parallels between feminine<br />
and masculine, <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> chose the houndstooth pattern, a fabric usually reserved<br />
for male elegance, to dress up Miss <strong>Dior</strong>. This tradition of mixing and crossing made<br />
a strong statement in 1966 with Eau Sauvage which marked a major turn in the<br />
history of fragrances for men. For the first time, a perfumer shook up the conventional<br />
recipes for Colognes by adding a very floral note. Eau Sauvage is the emblem of the spirit<br />
of an era leaning towards the liberalisation of moral standards and the cross-over of<br />
genders, symbolized by the bottle’s fluting evoking a dress pleat and its stopper recalling<br />
a thimble. This fragrance invited men at long last to get out of the olfactory rut of the<br />
first half of the 20 th century and to entertain a new and complex-free relationship<br />
with flowers. The great <strong>Dior</strong> men’s fragrances often use unprecedented floral facets:<br />
violet for Fahrenheit in 1988 or Iris from Tuscany for <strong>Dior</strong> Homme in 2005. <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />
Parfums has always been close to dandy refinement, as much through its olfactory expertise<br />
as through the determination of its creators to impose a new reading of masculine<br />
fragrances.<br />
Dand isms 1808-2008<br />
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PRESS KIT<br />
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Press Contacts<br />
Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />
phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />
catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />
Barbara Jeauffroy<br />
phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />
bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />
Anne Forest<br />
phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />
aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />
www.musee-dior-granville.fr
4 Kaleidoscope of dandyism<br />
extracts from the catalogue<br />
including John Galliano and Kris Van Assche<br />
Balzac called elegant women the small sex.<br />
As the term is not our own, we can paraphrase it.<br />
Elegance is the small sex of beauty.<br />
Barbey d’Aurevilly, De l’élégance, 1843<br />
Dandyism is like a setting sun; like the falling star,<br />
it is superb, without warmth and full of melancholy.<br />
Charles Baudelaire, Le Peintre de la vie moderne, 1863<br />
Idleness is the condition for perfection.<br />
The objective of perfection is youth.<br />
Oscar Wilde, Aphorismes, 1890<br />
Byron is a sybarite but a Spartan sybarite,<br />
who adores truffles and champagne but who, nonetheless,<br />
likes black bread and fresh water.<br />
Gabriel Matzneff, La diététique de Lord Byron, 1984<br />
The dandy is only fecund in the imagination of others.<br />
He puts all his dynamics into the quest for an ideal<br />
he cannot attain.<br />
Françoise Dolto, Splendeurs et misère du dandysme, 1986<br />
Dand isms 1808-2008<br />
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Press Contacts<br />
Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />
phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />
catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />
Barbara Jeauffroy<br />
phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />
bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />
Anne Forest<br />
phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />
aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />
www.musee-dior-granville.fr
4 …<br />
» The dandy dream by John Galliano<br />
»<br />
“One should either be a work of Art, or wear a work of Art’, wrote the iconic<br />
English dandy Oscar Wilde. I am thrilled to be part of this exhibition<br />
on ‘Dandyism’ at the <strong>Dior</strong> museum. Granville is the perfect location to celebrate<br />
the 200th anniversary of writer Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly and bring together an eclectic<br />
collection of dandies. Dandies at <strong>Dior</strong> and dandies who inspire <strong>Dior</strong>; there is<br />
such a rich source to choose from. Dandies have led and inspired the arts world since<br />
they first flounced onto the 18th century scene in England. It’s only fitting that<br />
<strong>Dior</strong> can salute this group of decadent dreamers and arbiters of style(…)<br />
The dapper dandy is a chameleon that moves with the times and trends<br />
and isn’t afraid to give their own extreme take on luxury. Style is conviction<br />
after all, and they live the dream… now who does this sound like to you?<br />
Frivolity and frock coats aside, I hope that this exhibition, or a biography of these<br />
featured heroes, will show you there is more to the dandy than simply being<br />
a dedicated follower of fashion and a catwalk finale! To make a mark on history<br />
you have to turn a few heads. This exhibition brings together some of the most iconic<br />
and inspiring dandies. From Cocteau to David Bowie, Baudelaire to Beaton<br />
and Mr. <strong>Dior</strong>’s grand costume balls, the dandy motto must be ‘dress to impress’.<br />
You will see every detail, every accessory and every line of poetry is perfect<br />
for the mood and the moment (…)<br />
I have worked with, and been inspired by, many dandies, just as Mr. <strong>Dior</strong><br />
himself was. Dandies are dreamers who dared. To live as art, or to wear art,<br />
has inspired me personally, as well as professionally (…)<br />
I hope to be a modern day dandy – to live the dream and to feed the dreams of<br />
others. Life is a work of art – so wear it and wow in it! Why run away from adventure?<br />
Live it, love it and enjoy the dandy dream!<br />
John Galliano, Paris, the 25th of February 2008<br />
Dandyism by Kris Van Assche<br />
“I entertain a complex relationship with Dandyism.<br />
Dandy… This essential figure of the 19th century, taken out of its historical context,<br />
seems a far cry from our Modernity. And yet today, it is constantly invited<br />
to signify masculine elegance, to characterize the quest for a subtle elegance.<br />
But what is the real heritage of this founding movement? Considering the origin<br />
of this movement, Dandyism speaks to me when it reflects on a different<br />
lifestyle where Appearance is not frivolous but profound and courageous.<br />
Then I rediscover what is important to me, this search for a radical sophistication,<br />
for a new nobleness of soul. It is in this sense that I admire those new “dandies”<br />
that are in my eye, the painter Jacques Monory or the pop star Justin Timberlake.<br />
They perpetuate with panache that attitude which aims at the perfect equation<br />
between Being and Seeming, between Reality and Appearance. They embody<br />
Modernity and at the same time have inherited from dandyism that essential<br />
attitude which constructs them in the eyes of others.<br />
Kris Van Assche, Paris, the 14th March 2008<br />
Dand isms 1808-2008<br />
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PRESS KIT<br />
(These quotes are extracts from the<br />
catalogue for the exhibition “Dandysmes<br />
1808-2008 de Barbey d’Aurevilly<br />
à <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>”.)<br />
12<br />
13<br />
Press Contacts<br />
Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />
phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />
catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />
Barbara Jeauffroy<br />
phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />
bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />
Anne Forest<br />
phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />
aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />
www.musee-dior-granville.fr
5 Exceptional loans<br />
and prestigious lenders<br />
On the occasion of the “Dandyisms” exhibition, the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />
at Granville has brought together an exceptional set of exhibits composed partly<br />
by works of art, rare and precious objects and fashion designs from the collections<br />
of public and private lenders and partly by emblematic pieces from the <strong>Dior</strong> heritage<br />
belonging to the Granville Museum and to the collections of <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Couture<br />
and <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Parfums.<br />
Moreover, the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum at Granville has made a series of acquisitions<br />
of costumes and documents that allows it to present, for the first time, elegant children’s<br />
clothes, very rare men’s fashion magazines and a unique bequest dedicated to the history<br />
of perfumes and cosmetics.<br />
Leading French Museums have also committed themselves to this exhibition with the<br />
<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum at Granville by loaning some prestigious works:<br />
- the Museum of the Châteaux of Versailles and Trianon has accepted to loan the<br />
most famous portrait of Barbey d’Aurevilly, by Emile Lévy, for an unprecedented<br />
presentation outside of its walls.<br />
- the famous great portrait of Montesquiou by Boldini will be loaned by the Orsay<br />
Museum accompanied by various documents evoking this Proust-like figure.<br />
- the Palais Galliera, the City of Paris Fashion Museum, has selected some typological<br />
elements from the 19th century for us.<br />
- the Maison de Balzac is loaning the mythical “turquoise cane” belonging to the author<br />
of “The Human Comedy”<br />
- the Carnavalet Museum is loaning three paintings: le Pavillon d’Armenonville, soir de<br />
Grand Prix by Henri Gervex, portrait of Jean Lorrain by Antoine de La Gandara and<br />
a self portrait of the Comtesse de Greffuhle.<br />
- the <strong>Musée</strong> des Arts Décoratifs of Paris, is loaning rare and precious objects having<br />
belonged to illustrious dandies: Barbey but also Alfred de Musset or the Baron de Redé.<br />
- the mood of elite society at the turn of the 20 th century will be rendered by the portraits<br />
of elegant writers (Paul Morand, Jean Cocteau) by Jacques Émile Blanche and elegant<br />
sportsmen by Boutet de Monvel (Museums of Rouen and Boulogne-Billancourt)<br />
- the Barbey d’Aurevilly Museum has been willing to loan Barbey d’Aurevilly’s wardrobe,<br />
some amazing caricatures as well as a set of manuscripts relative to the writing<br />
of the book Du Dandysme et de Georges Brummell<br />
- numerous pieces will come from private collections of accessories and perfumes (<strong>Musée</strong><br />
national du Château de Malmaison, Baccarat, Guerlain, Louis Vuitton, Patrimoine<br />
Lanvin) or loaned by enlightened amateurs of the “dandy” phenomenon<br />
(Anouschka, Didier Ludot, Alexis Mabille, Georges Stam, Gilbert Segas,<br />
Falbalas, Joseph Avrilleau, Merlin Hollande, Oscar Wilde’s grandson,<br />
Franck Salle) and galleries (Talabardon et Gautier).<br />
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Press Contacts<br />
Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />
phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />
catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />
Barbara Jeauffroy<br />
phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />
bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />
Anne Forest<br />
phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />
aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />
www.musee-dior-granville.fr
6 From the Villa “Les Rhumbs”<br />
to the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum-Garden<br />
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Born on the 21 st of January 1905 in Granville, a seaside resort on the Channel,<br />
<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> spent his early childhood years at “Les Rhumbs, a pink and grey<br />
villa overlooking the sea. The <strong>Dior</strong>s were a prominent family of industrialists in the<br />
region: the main business, located at Granville, being the biggest fertilizer factory in the<br />
west of France. <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>’s mother, Madeleine Martin, brought to this family of<br />
entrepreneurs all the traditions of a refined upper class lifestyle with her stylishly elegant<br />
taste and clothes. It was she who transformed the house into a villa surrounded by a<br />
garden that she had arranged like an English park. Like a lot of upper class children<br />
born before 1914, <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> would feel a great nostalgia for this Edwardian lifestyle.<br />
He inherited his mother’s passion for gardens and developed his taste for parties and<br />
fancy dress costumes, secret alcoves and old styles. Then, because of the diplomatic<br />
career wished for by his parents - a career at odds with his own desire to study the Fine<br />
Arts - he went to live in Paris and enrolled at the School of Political Sciences. However,<br />
he was more motivated by the arts and music and met, amongst others, the musician<br />
Henri Sauguet, the painter <strong>Christian</strong> Bérard and the historian Pierre Gaxotte.<br />
After his military service in 1927, <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> decided to open an art gallery<br />
where he exhibited Picasso, Matisse, Dufy, Bérard, Dali… In 1935, he became a fashion<br />
illustrator for the Figaro. He was employed by Robert Piguet as a designer in 1938 then<br />
by Lucien Lelong in 1942 and it was in 1946 thanks to the Boussac group, that he<br />
opened his own fashion house at 30 Avenue Montaigne. The house of <strong>Christian</strong><br />
<strong>Dior</strong> was created and caused the New Look revolution with his first show on the<br />
12 th of February 1947.<br />
40 years after the creation of the Fashion House, Jean-Luc Dufresne proposed the<br />
transformation of the villa “Les Rhumbs” into a Museum in the aim of evoking the career<br />
and personality of the couturier. Acquired by the town of Granville in 1938, following<br />
the great reversal in fortune of <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>’s father, the domain had been transformed<br />
into a public garden.<br />
Since 1991, supported by the association “Présence de <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>”, the villa<br />
has alternated construction work and exhibitions. As from 1997, each floor has been<br />
refurbished like a fashion museum: costumes and accessories are presented in roomshowcases.<br />
The Museum’s collections regroup numerous souvenirs of <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />
(portraits, mementos such as the couturier’s star, scissors, diary and watch), collections<br />
illustrating the history of fashion and reconstituting the artistic and cultural context of<br />
the couturier as well as <strong>Dior</strong> Haute Couture and Ready-to-Wear styles. There are also<br />
numerous accessories such as shoes, hats, jewellery, perfume bottles, a bequest of documents<br />
including photographs and fashion designs or even artists’ works dating from<br />
the years between the two world wars.<br />
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Press Contacts<br />
Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />
phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />
catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />
Barbara Jeauffroy<br />
phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />
bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />
Anne Forest<br />
phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />
aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />
www.musee-dior-granville.fr
7 Animations, catalogue<br />
practical information<br />
The events and animations around the exhibition<br />
“Dandyisms 1808-2008, from Barbey d’Aurevilly<br />
to <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong>”<br />
Perfume workshops<br />
The workshops take place in the <strong>Dior</strong> family’s former reading room<br />
located in the garden (left corner) every Wednesday between the<br />
4 th of June and the 17 th of September 2008, at 3, 4 and 5 pm for<br />
small groups (maximum 10 people) on reservation.<br />
Museum Night and French Patrimony Days<br />
On the occasion of the Museum Night, the 17 th May 2008,<br />
The <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum will be free to the public from<br />
8.00 pm to half past midnight. During the French Patrimony<br />
Days, on the 20 th and 21 st of September next, the <strong>Christian</strong><br />
<strong>Dior</strong> Museum will propose entrance tickets at half price, 3 € .<br />
Rendezvous in the gardens<br />
In partnership with the town of Granville, the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />
Museum and Garden will take part in the Rendezvous in the<br />
gardens, a national operation mounted by the Ministry of Culture,<br />
on the 30 th and 31 st of May and the 1 st of June 2008 and will set<br />
up a program of free events on the theme of exotic plants.<br />
Permanent information about the garden’s history is currently<br />
being developed.<br />
Light shows<br />
Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday evening during the months of<br />
July and August, the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum and Garden will be<br />
illuminated at dusk.<br />
Program of conferences and projections<br />
A monthly cycle of conferences and projections on Barbey<br />
d’Aurevilly’s universe and dandyism in general, including the<br />
films Le rideau d’Alexandre Astruc, 1953 and Une vieille maitresse<br />
by Catherine Breillat.<br />
The authors-conference givers invited are: Daniel Salvatore<br />
Schiffer, Marguerite Champeaux-Rousselot, Farid Chenoune,<br />
Marie-Christine Matta, Philippe Thiebaut…<br />
The museum’s shop will present a selection of books including<br />
the essay by Barbey d’Aurevilly Du Dandysme et de Georges<br />
Brummel and the book Philosophie du Dandysme : une esthétique<br />
de l’âme et du corps by Daniel Savatore Schiffer, published in<br />
march 2008 by PUF.<br />
For more details concerning the calendar and the themes log onto<br />
www.musee-dior-granville.com<br />
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Publications<br />
- The exhibition’s book-catalogue (17 x 24 cm) in four-colour<br />
printing, bound and co-published by the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />
and Editions Artlys, 96 pages, 19,50 € - Under the direction of<br />
Jean-Luc Dufresne in collaboration with Marguerite Rousselot,<br />
Barbara Jeauffroy, Erwan de Fligues and Vincent Leret, with<br />
texts by John Galliano and Kris Van Assche.<br />
- Le guide du musée et jardin <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> co-published by the<br />
<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum and Editions Artlys 32 pages 8 € .<br />
Opening times and entrance fees<br />
- The museum is open from the 1st of May to the 21st of September<br />
2008, everyday without interruption from 10 am to 6.30 pm.<br />
Open visit. Boutique inside the museum, a tea room and audiovisual<br />
space (free access) outside<br />
- The garden is open all year round and is free with open access<br />
from September to June, from 9 am to 8 pm except in July and<br />
August open till 9 pm<br />
- Entrance fee: normal: 6€ / reduced (handicapped visitors,<br />
unemployed, students: 4€ / family (minimum 4 people): 18€<br />
Free for all members of the association “Présence de <strong>Christian</strong><br />
<strong>Dior</strong>”.<br />
Conditions for group visits<br />
- Group entrance fee: 3€ per person for 20 people upwards.<br />
Reservations (compulsory) at 02 33 61 48 21. On arrival there is<br />
an introductory presentation of the exhibition lasting about 15<br />
minutes then an open visit inside the museum (45 minutes for<br />
the Museum; 1h30 for the Museum and Garden).<br />
How to get there<br />
- A13 Motorway Paris/Caen then the A84 between Caen and<br />
Granville direction Rennes/ Le Mont Saint- Michel (3 hours)<br />
- Granville SNCF railway station, daily links with Paris<br />
(Montparnasse /Vaugirard), Caen and Rennes.<br />
For further information<br />
<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum and Garden, Villa “Les Rhumbs”,<br />
rue d’Estouteville - 50400- Granville<br />
e-mail : museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />
www.musee-dior-granville.com<br />
Press Contacts<br />
Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />
phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />
catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />
Barbara Jeauffroy<br />
phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />
bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />
Anne Forest<br />
phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />
aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />
www.musee-dior-granville.fr
8 List and captions of the photos<br />
Cover:<br />
Gisele Bündchen inspired by Irving Penn<br />
HC AH 2007-2008 © <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Couture<br />
Dandys, drawings and collages by<br />
Emmanuel Pierre<br />
© copyright musée <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />
1 Emile Lévy, Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly<br />
(1808-1889) novelist, 1881 Versailles,<br />
Châteaux de Versailles et de Trianon<br />
© RMN/<strong>Christian</strong> Jean / Hervé<br />
Lewandowski<br />
2 Giovanni Boldini, Le Comte Robert<br />
de Montesquiou (1855-1921), writer,<br />
1897<br />
© RMN/ Hervé Lewandowski<br />
3 <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> disguised as Barbey<br />
d’Aurevilly at the Bal des Artistes<br />
in Paris, on the 14th of February 1956.<br />
© André Ostier<br />
4 Bastien Lepage,<br />
Portrait de Jeune Garçon<br />
© Galerie Talabardon et Gautier<br />
5 Jacques-Émile Blanche,<br />
Étude pour le portrait de Jean Cocteau,<br />
1923, H/T, 91,5 x 72,7 cm.<br />
<strong>Musée</strong> des Beaux-Arts de la ville<br />
de Rouen.<br />
Photo Catherine Lancien<br />
© Catherine Lancien<br />
6 Box for Parfums d’Orsay depicting<br />
Le chevalier d’Orsay dessinant<br />
le portrait de Byron,<br />
by Jean Cocteau, 1956<br />
© ADAGP<br />
7 Golfing suit, around 1930.<br />
Tweed jacket with pointed lapels,<br />
half-belt and darts in the back,<br />
houndstooth wool knickerbockers,<br />
check patterned socks.<br />
Collection Falbalas, Photo L. Le Guyader<br />
© musée <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />
8 <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> as the Animal King<br />
Photo Keystone © Keystone<br />
9 <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> in a white suit<br />
sitting on a low wall<br />
© DR<br />
10 Eau Noire, Cologne Blanche<br />
and Bois d’Argent, exclusive Colognes<br />
made for <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Parfums<br />
under the direction of Hedi Slimane<br />
in 2004.<br />
© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Parfums<br />
11 Dandys, drawings and collages,<br />
by Emmanuel Pierre<br />
© musée <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />
Dand isms 1808-2008<br />
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12 John Galliano by Paolo Roversi<br />
© Paolo Roversi<br />
13 Kris Van Assche by Jeff Burton<br />
© <strong>Dior</strong><br />
14 Bow ties, Alexis Mabille,<br />
Impasse 13<br />
© DR<br />
15 Gloves belonging to<br />
Barbey d’Aurevilly,<br />
<strong>Musée</strong> Barbey d’Aurevilly<br />
© DR<br />
16 Oscar Wilde in a fur coat leaving<br />
for the United States in 1881<br />
Photo Elliot and Fry © DR<br />
17 Back view of dressing gown in floral<br />
brocaded light blue satin with<br />
6 gold and silver petals,<br />
around 1825, <strong>Musée</strong> de la Mode<br />
de la Ville de Paris, Galliera<br />
Photo L. Le Guyader<br />
© <strong>Musée</strong> <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />
18 Turquoise cane belonging to Balzac,<br />
Le Cointe 1834, Maison de Balzac Paris<br />
© Maison de Balzac / Roger Viollet<br />
19 Villa “Les Rhumbs” the current<br />
<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum, Granville<br />
Stereochrome 1930.<br />
Photo Vasseur <strong>Dior</strong><br />
© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />
20 Villa “Les Rhumbs”,<br />
<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum, Granville<br />
Photo Anne Forest<br />
© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />
21 Villa “Les Rhumbs”<br />
<strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum, Granville<br />
Photo Vincent Leret<br />
© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />
22 <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> and his sister Jacqueline<br />
© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />
23 <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> and his brothers<br />
and sisters in 1920<br />
© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />
24 Perfume workshop<br />
at the <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />
Photo Anne Forest<br />
© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Museum<br />
25 Illumination of the Villa “Les Rhumbs”<br />
Photo Thierry Seni<br />
© town of Granville<br />
26 Gisele Bündchen inspired<br />
by Irving Penn HC FW 2007-2008<br />
© <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong> Couture<br />
from Barbey d’Aurevilly to <strong>Christian</strong> <strong>Dior</strong><br />
The photos on the back cover will be available<br />
on the museum’s website.<br />
Press Contacts<br />
Catherine Dufayet Communication<br />
phone (33)1 43 59 05 05 fax (33)1 43 59 05 02<br />
catherine.dufayet@wanadoo.fr<br />
Barbara Jeauffroy<br />
phone (33)1 40 73 53 74 fax (33)1 40 73 57 93<br />
bjeauffroy@christiandior.fr<br />
Anne Forest<br />
phone (33)2 33 61 48 21 fax (33)2 33 61 99 15<br />
aforest.museechristiandior@wanadoo.fr<br />
www.musee-dior-granville.fr<br />
26
Portrait de Jean Galliano © Photo par Jean-Baptiste Mondino<br />
conception _ atelier Juliane Cordes _ cordes.juliane@gmail.com