baltimore county - Mason Dixon Arrive Magazine

libation
By Kristin Heilman
Opposite: Bodegas
Protos in Peñafiel is now
distributed in almost 100
countries worldwide.
Right: Ninety-nine percent
of Cava is produced in
the Penedès region of
Cataluña, southwest of
Barcelona.
With vines introduced to its diverse landscape
at least as far back as 300 B.C., Spain nurtures
a deep tradition and passion for winemaking.
Yet, only in recent years have Spanish wines
made significant inroads to the American
market, with imports soaring in the past
decade. Admired for its innovative art and
architecture, cutting-edge fashion and casual
yet cultivated cuisine, Spain is quickly gaining
the favor of wine connoisseurs worldwide.
Since the late 20 th century, Spanish wines
have experienced a renaissance, as the quality
and diversity of the region’s wines have
exploded. Young winemakers have led the
revolution by marrying modern practices with
honored traditions, wines and varietals. The
result: complex and expressive wines that
exude a keen sense of place.
And place is paramount. Strict Spanish
government regulation ensures a wine’s
quality and character are consistent with its
geographic roots. A designation system –
Denominaciónes de Origén (D.O.) – identifies
prestigious wines from specific regions,
recognizing that the wine was sourced and
produced according to certain parameters. If a
label indicates D.O.C. – or Denominación de
Origén Calificada – the wine has maintained
superior quality over an extended period of
time; Rioja and Priorat alone carry D.O.C.
status.
Spain currently has more than 70 D.O.s,
allowing for a wide range of taste profiles.
Easy to drink, affordable and widely available,
these wines are food-friendly and complement
cuisines ranging from Chinese and Thai to
Mexican, Mediterranean and American. For
consumers shopping for a bottle to enjoy with
dinner, they’re in luck: most Spanish wines are
ready to drink and don’t require cellaring.
From crisp whites and soft rosés to deep
reds and beyond, Spanish wines suit any occasion.
Create an authentic tasting experience,
and quaff a wine alongside simple Spanish
tapas, such as Marcona almonds, marinated
olives and artisan cheeses. As a bonus, cheese
expert Michele Buster of Forever Cheese
offers some pairing suggestions:
For Special (or Not) Occasions:
Cava
Cava is Spain’s renowned sparkling
wine and rivals the dry champagnes of
France. It can only be produced in six
wine regions – although 99 percent of
Cava is produced in the Penedès region
of Cataluña, southwest of Barcelona
– and must rely on the traditional
method (méthode champenoise). Like
champagne, Cava has varying levels of
dryness: brut nature, brut (extra dry),
seco (dry), semiseco (medium) and dulce
(sweet).
Pairing: Sparkling wines typically
have higher acidity and lower sugar
levels than table wines, making them
extremely versatile and food-friendly.
Buster recommends a mild sheep’s milk
cheese, such as Miticrema; a spreadable
cream cheese; or a flavorful, citrusy soft
ripened goat cheese, such as MitiCaña
de Cabra.
Spain’s Signature White: Albariño
The Albariño grape, indigenous to
Galicia in northwest Spain, is small and
very sweet. Depending on the vintage
and sub-region of D.O. Rías Baixas, this
variety can be rich and expressive, with
peach and apricot notes, or tart and bracing,
like green apples and lemon peels.
A high-quality, aromatic and crisp wine,
Albariño pairs well with seafood dishes.
Pairing suggestion: To coax the
fullest flavor from Albariño, follow a
sip with a nibble of goat cheese. Buster
thinks a full-flavored raw milk goat
cheese like Naked Goat pairs well given
its slight tang in the finish. PataCabra,
the product of a secret recipe using
Muriciana goat’s milk, also provides a
complex and well-balanced flavor profile
that complements the wine.
A Rosé by Another Name:
Garnacha
Garnacha is the third most planted
grape in Spain and is concentrated in
the country’s north central region. With
origins in Spain, the variety traveled to
southern France in the eighth and ninth
centuries and is known as Grenache
throughout the world.
Pairing suggestion: Garnacha rosés
have bright strawberry aromas with fresh
cherry and currant flavors and traces
of citrus and strawberry; crisp acidity
is followed by a soft, round finish.
Buster recommends matching it with
a tangy, fruity cheese. Young Mahon,
from young cow’s milk, is mild, fruity
and versatile. A more complex option
is Leonora, an exceptional goat cheese
from León.
The King of Reds: Tempranillo
Known as the king of grapes in the
Rioja region, Tempranillo is Spain’s classic
varietal. A small, dark blackish-red
grape, Tempranillo is widely admired for
its vibrancy and variety. It is cultivated
all over Spain, resulting in a great array
of tastes reflective of Spain’s geographic
diversity.
Pairing suggestion: Expressive when
young and velvety rich when aged,
Tempranillo exhibits a spectrum of
flavor, from hints of vanilla, cherries
and currants to unexpected nuances
of coconut. A buttery cheese such as
Manchego is the ideal canvas for showcasing
Tempranillo. Buster suggests
Malvarosa, a smooth sheep’s milk cheese
from Valencia.
Not Your Grandmother’s Sherry
Spanish sherry production is centered
in southern Spain, where Palomino
grape vines thrive in the chalky soil of
the Jerez region. Though primarily produced
from Palomino fruit, sherry may
also incorporate Moscatel and Pedro
Ximénez varietals.
Fino Sherry is one of the driest
and has a light, aperitif style. The
palate is both salty and citrusy, with
touches of green apple and almond.
Often accompanying tapas, Fino
Sherry balances with semi-firm goat
cheeses. Buster suggests a Montcabrer
from Catalunya for its creamy texture
and earthy, slightly tangy taste,
or Vare from Asturias, which has a
creamy texture and the longest finish
for a goat cheese.
Sweet Sherry is sweetened with the
juice of Pedro Ximénez grapes, which
have high residual sugar content. Sundried
to concentrate the sugars before
being pressed, they lend thick, sweet
flavors of fig and molasses to the final
product. Appropriate for dessert or
after dinner, sweet sherry fares well
with blue cheeses. Look for Cabrales,
which combines cow, sheep and goat
milk in a potent, salty cheese, or the
less assertive Valdeon, a mild, creamy
cheese from cow and goat milk.
Salud!
28 Mason-Dixon ARRIVE | APRIL 2011 Mason-Dixon ARRIVE | APRIL 2011 29