Best of British Textiles in Twist magazine - UKFT

SOURCINGBest of BritishWhy source textiles from the UK? Well for starters there is the manufacturingheritage feeding a strong skills base, resulting in high quality productionusing natural raw materials, all complemented by the spirit of innovation.Oh yes, and a certain quirky charm only found in the British Isles. CharlotteRogers finds out more.There are numerous qualities that set Britain apart as thedestination for luxury, innovative textiles, starting with thepeople behind the designs. “UK textiles and the people behindthem have that totally British mix of humour, formality, themanners and irreverence that is sought after by many internationalbuyers,” states Beryl Gibson, textile trend consultant tothe UKFT (UK fashion and textile association).“UK art school education is the best in the world and the millsemploy well trained, experienced and creative designers. Withthe latest technology in digital printing, young British designersare leading the world.”‘The UK also has a veryspecial approach to colour andpattern that is both traditional andavant-garde’Add to this creative power a beloved textile design traditionof pinstripes, tartans, glen checks, Prince of Wales checks andwindow panes, treated with respect for each seasonal update.The heritage alive in the UK textile manufacturing industry isan invaluable resource, with most mills boasting rich archives,centuries old, to draw on for reference and research.There is also a strong preference for high quality natural fibresand yarns, primarily wool often blended with cashmere, silk,linen and cotton. “Attention to detail, care and quality – theUK textile industry offers unrivalled customer service and abrilliant product. The UK also has a very special approach tocolour and pattern that is both traditional and avant-garde, yetalways stylish,” says Gibson.The ability to offer a sustainable product is anotherdraw. With wool the fibre of choice, UK textiles enjoy thebenefits of being made from a biodegradable and naturallyoccurring raw material. Many mills also opt for local spunyarns and fabric finishers, thereby reducing the carbonfootprint of the manufacturing process. These spinners anddyers often utilise the latest technology designed to have alow environmental impact.By choosing the best yarns made from hard wearing fibres, thedesigns achieve what Gibson describes as a natural longevity.“Subtle yet highly creative and thoughtful designs often meanthat fabric patterns will endure the fashion cycle for manyThe UKFT stand at Première Vision.seasons,” she notes.UK manufacturers are also keen to improve the performancequalities of their textiles, which they work on in conjunctionwith their main collections. Some companies offer specialperformance finishes for a variety of cloth bases tailoredto suit the customer’s individual needs. These performancequalities include easy care finishes washable at 30 o C, rainproofor shower proof finishes, stain resistance, additional thermalproperties, Cool Wool, bi- stretch, natural stretch, reflectiveand double face textures.Gibson sees the growing technical abilities of UK textiles as adistinct advantage: “Through manipulating the idea of casualand formal fabrics, textiles have pushed the boundaries of whatperformance apparel textiles can be in terms of inventiveness,fun and sophistication.”It is the mix of tradition and innovation that means UK textilescontinue to be relevant in the modern design climate, whilst theindustry is also versatile enough to meet demand by offeringquick lead times. The main markets for British textiles are theUS, Japan, Italy and France, with China fast gaining ground.A large part of the appeal is the provenance of textilesmanufactured in the UK and all this represents. Transparencythroughout the whole manufacturing chain gives the consumerconfidence, whilst the unique back story is a real draw tointernational retail markets.“Traceability and manufacturing with superb heritage andexpert time honoured skills is seen as a quality as importantas the actual fabric,” Gibson explains. “Today discerningconsumers want to know exactly what they are buying withTwist February/March 2013 21P21 - 22 UKFT.indd 21 15/01/2013 09:25

SOURCINGsupported byperceived value both real and emotional.”This appreciation for the qualities of British textiles hasseen a shift amongst domestic retailers away from the FarEast in favour of near shoring. This means a greater amountof control, flexibility and shorter lead times, together withthe option to re-order and add new fabrics mid-season inresponse to bestselling lines. Gibson notes a definite moveamongst fashion designers and buyers to source textiles andgarment manufacturing closer to home.‘British textiles havepushed the boundaries of whatperformance apparel textiles canbe in terms of inventiveness, funand sophistication’“All levels of UK retailing are looking at bringing some orall garment manufacturing back home, which is great newsand many mills will adapt some of their fabric collectionsand price points to assist this ‘Made in the UK’ total story ofyarn-fabric-garments,” she states.Despite this shift towards near shoring, UK textileproduction will continue to occupy the niche market forhigh quality, and at times limited production runs, ratherthan cater for the mass, high street market. This is a strengthargues Gibson, who states that retail luxury brands havea preference for limited edition products that are bespokeor rare. This offers additional opportunities for mills,she believes, such as the supply of rare wool from specialflocks, limited edition luxury fibres, unique colouring andhandcrafted effects.The UKFT works with designers, manufacturers andretailers across the country - representing their views toGovernment, promoting their talents at international tradeshows and assisting with training and skills. Membersinclude textile mills, technical and performance textilescompanies and textile designers, as well as individuals workingin fashion, accessories and other areas of apparel.Essentially, the UKFT champions British textile manufacturing.“There is an enormous synergy and opportunity inconnecting the whole design-textile-fashion process of the UKindustry and UKFT’s ‘Let’s make it here!’ initiative has been aresounding success,” Gibson reports.The UKFT also delivers the UK Trade and Investment (UKTI)Tradeshow Access Programme on behalf of the textile andfashion industry, taking 600 companies to over 70 internationalshows including Première Vision and Indigo in Paris,Techtextil and Heimtextil in Frankfurt and IntertextileShanghai Apparel Fabrics.Supporting the next generation, UKFT Rise has recentlylaunched as a new network for emerging textile andfashion designers. Gibson explains the idea behindthe scheme. “The network is a platform for those withambition and drive working in the fashion and textileindustry where they can regularly meet and gainknowledge from key experts in the sector.“This is also part of UKFT’s commitment to support the futureof the industry by advising and bringing together people whohave started businesses or want to know how to grow a careerwithin the industry and stand out from the crowd.”Other creative initiatives from the UKFT include the BritishColour Card trend information, soon available as an accessibleonline tool, multi-lingual press information and spotlightpromotions at textile shows to draw attention to performancetextiles, as well as particular fabric weights and finishes.Now appears to be the right time for UK textiles toflourish. The attributes of the fabrics are appreciated asnever before, chiming in with consumers desire to knowmore about the provenance of their garments, in a search forquality and longevity. ●For further information on British textiles please contact:UKFT, 3 Queen Square, London, WC1N 3ARTel: +44 (0)20 7843 9460Email: textiles@ukft.org22 Twist February/March 2013P21 - 22 UKFT.indd 22 15/01/2013 09:26