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beer guide latvia - Labs alus

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32<br />

aldaris <strong>beer</strong>s<br />

porteris 6.8% (baltic porter)<br />

luksus 5.2% (dortmunder)<br />

zelta black 4.2% (schwarzbier)<br />

zelta 5.2% (pale Lager)<br />

pilzenes 4.2% (german pils)<br />

latvijas sevišķais 5.0% Märzen<br />

Aldaris brews mostly cheap-end <strong>beer</strong>s, that is the fact. Especially be aware of Apinītis series,<br />

do not buy it under any circumstances, as seldom worse <strong>beer</strong>s can be encountered;<br />

it is very ironic that one of Apinītis <strong>beer</strong>s is called ‘premium.<br />

On the other hand, all these <strong>beer</strong>s can be easily excused if Porteris is considered. Aldaris<br />

is the only Latvian brewery to brew Baltic Porter on a regular basis and is very careful<br />

about not compromising its excellent quality.<br />

Luksus<br />

ABV 5.2%, Dortmunder/Export<br />

Currently one of the finest pale lagers brewed by Aldaris, this one<br />

was the first “Western-style” <strong>beer</strong> introduced in the Latvian market<br />

after the takeover by Pripps in the beginning of 1990ies. It was<br />

brewed in Finland before the brewing operations were transferred<br />

to Riga and many people swear this move made it taste much<br />

worse.<br />

The <strong>beer</strong> was expensive when it first appeared, in a new type of<br />

bottles and it seemed as a luxury to many people indeed. Luksus<br />

has lost some of its appeal over the years, but still it is one of the<br />

flagship <strong>beer</strong> of Aldaris, although many other <strong>beer</strong>s outsell it by a<br />

great margin.<br />

It pours pale golden with noticeable grassy hops aroma. Taste is<br />

sweet malt with refreshing and spicy hoppy background, but not<br />

much. Refreshing <strong>beer</strong> to be drunk during hot summer day, but<br />

not very memorable. Still, it tastes way better than most of semibland<br />

juices produced by Aldaris.<br />

Porteris<br />

ABV 6.8%, Baltic Porter<br />

Aldara Porteris is the two remaining representatives of Baltic Porters in Latvia. Beers<br />

that belong to this interesting style, were brewed throughout Latvia along Imperial<br />

Stouts, mostly for export to the Russian Empire as the local population could not afford<br />

it. It was a good business until the First World War when the Russian Empire collapsed<br />

and there were no more export possibilities.<br />

Curiously enough, the style was revived only during<br />

the Soviet times in 1950s and in contrast to<br />

nowadays, Porteris was not brewed continuously,<br />

but was available just a few times a year.<br />

Porteris is almost black with small brownish head<br />

that does not seem to last too long. Aroma is nice<br />

malty with notes of bittery coffee and dark chocolate.<br />

Taste is is even better mild roasted and sweetish<br />

malt with coffee bitterness, notes of liquorice and<br />

molasses, bits of raisins. The full body is smooth<br />

and creamy with smooth carbonation - certainly<br />

not a session <strong>beer</strong>, but for cosy winter evenings<br />

next to the fireplace.<br />

Clearly a king amongst Latvian dark <strong>beer</strong>s, it<br />

would difficult to imagine any other coming even<br />

close.<br />

It is worth noting that none of the small Latvian<br />

breweries brews Baltic Porter citing complexity of<br />

brewing and long maturation times as the biggest<br />

obstacle. The only other Latvian brewery to release<br />

any kind of Porter on a semi-regular basis, usually<br />

for Christmas, is Cēsu - it is usually a different<br />

recipe each year.<br />

33

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