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Take your car and discover more<br />
BELGIAN BEER<br />
TOURS
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Antwerp (page 7)<br />
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1 Berenbak<br />
2 Kulminator<br />
3 Het Elfde Gebod<br />
4 Oud Arsenaal<br />
5 Waagstuk<br />
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Some images used in this magazine were sourced from the<br />
internet (www.wikipedia.org) and are believed to be in the<br />
public domain. However, they require the following credits:<br />
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Bruges (page 5)<br />
1 De Halve Maan<br />
2 Vlissinghe<br />
3 Brugs <strong>Beer</strong>tje<br />
4 Bargehuis<br />
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Every effort has been made to ensure that all<br />
information including opening hours, prices,<br />
contact details and websites are correct at the<br />
time of going to press but, as these may change,<br />
the publishers cannot be held responsible for any<br />
inaccuracies.<br />
Telephone numbers are shown including the<br />
international dialling code. When dialling from the<br />
UK omit the (0). When dialling from the locality<br />
omit the international dialling code<br />
but include the (0).<br />
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Ghent (page 6)<br />
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1 Aba-Jour<br />
2 A Capella<br />
3 Hopduvel<br />
4 Prelude<br />
5 Trappistenhuis<br />
6 Waterhuis aan de Bierkant<br />
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Brussels (page 8)<br />
1 Porte Noire<br />
2 Brussels Gauze Museum<br />
and Cantillon Brewery<br />
3 Les Brasseurs de la<br />
Grand Place<br />
4 Bier Circus<br />
5 Delirium<br />
6 Spinnekopke<br />
7 Paon Royal<br />
8 Poechenellekelder<br />
www.dfds.co.uk<br />
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A18<br />
In celebration of beer<br />
With over a million visitors flocking to Belgium<br />
every year to sample the glorious selection of beers,<br />
this Norfolkline Guide is designed to tempt you to<br />
join them.<br />
There are well over 100 Belgian breweries ranging<br />
from multinationals to microbreweries, producing<br />
some 800 brews which are sold through countless<br />
bars and restaurants across the country. The Belgian<br />
love of beer is celebrated in the many festivals held<br />
throughout the country each year.<br />
In the UK beer drinkers divide into two distinct<br />
camps – the real ale supporters who tend to relish<br />
the various flavours of the beers and those whose<br />
preference is for a consistent, long drink now<br />
accounting for the vast proportion of beer drunk<br />
in Britain. In Belgium they take a very different<br />
view. To start with, their glasses are smaller and, on<br />
the whole, their beers have a higher alcohol content.<br />
This Guide introduces you to the story behind the<br />
fascinating variety of Belgian beers, how they are<br />
made and where you can sample them. Dunkirk<br />
is close to many of the highlights in the world of<br />
Belgian beer and we have mapped out some ideas<br />
for short visits to the area so you can plan your<br />
accommodation in advance. In addition we have<br />
included beer museums that show traditional<br />
equipment and brewing methods. You will also find<br />
some of the technical terms and processes used in<br />
Belgian regional brewing explained, to make your<br />
voyage of discovery more interesting and rewarding.<br />
Good beer hunting!<br />
Contents<br />
Understanding Belgian beers 2<br />
A beer quest 3<br />
Follow the coast road 4<br />
Driving information 13<br />
Check-out De Panne...<br />
Map Key<br />
M<br />
Brewery<br />
Trappist Abbey<br />
<strong>Beer</strong> festival<br />
<strong>Beer</strong> Museum<br />
Bar/café<br />
Not really a bar destination, rather more a vast expanse of beach<br />
where sand yacht races are held and a must if you want a dip in the<br />
sea to work up a thirst! Included here because Dany Pynseel-Prinzle<br />
runs a cash and carry warehouse specialising in beers. He sells a<br />
selection of Belgian beers, six to a wooden crate, which make ideal<br />
souvenirs or gifts. While you are there it’s the perfect place to stock<br />
up on Belgian beers to take home as De Panne is only minutes from<br />
Oostduinkirke and just over half an hour to the ferry port at Dunkirk.<br />
Dany Pynseel<br />
Drink Market<br />
Duinkerkelaan 45/47<br />
De Panne (see Oostduinkirke on map above)<br />
Tel: +44 00 32 (0)58 42 05 05<br />
Open: 09.00-12.00 15.00-18.00<br />
Closed: Wednesdays and Sunday afternoon.<br />
TEL: 08715 747242 1
2<br />
Image: © Tourism Flanders & Brussels / www.visitflanders.co.uk<br />
Explore beer types<br />
Understanding Belgian<br />
beers<br />
The various types of Belgian beers are categorised according<br />
to ingredients, production methods and flavours. We've<br />
crammed into these pages an insight into the main ranges<br />
on offer which should help to save you from choosing a beer<br />
that is not really to your taste or not compatible with the<br />
food you are eating.<br />
Now is the time to be brave, to experiment with different<br />
brews and narrow down the ones that appeal to you.<br />
This is an adventure full of fun and surprises!<br />
White beers<br />
These are produced from<br />
wheat grain and they are<br />
popular as light, refreshing,<br />
summery drinks. They<br />
come in dry – good as an<br />
appetiser – or sweet – great<br />
with fruit.<br />
Brown beers<br />
Roughly equivalent to an<br />
English brewed winter<br />
warmer, these beers are<br />
perfect alongside a hearty<br />
stew and, when used in<br />
cooking a beef carbonnade,<br />
give the dish a rich and<br />
delicious flavour.<br />
Red beers<br />
Top producer, Rodenbach,<br />
brews this slightly sharpish<br />
beer that makes a brilliant<br />
alternative to a young red<br />
wine. Generally reckoned<br />
to be an acquired taste.<br />
Belgian beers and their glasses<br />
Belgian ales<br />
Of medium colour and not<br />
too strong these beers are<br />
ideal for evenings spent<br />
with friends where a heavier<br />
brew would be too much!<br />
Pils<br />
Familiar to the UK in the<br />
form of brand leader, Stella<br />
Artois, these clear, golden<br />
beers have a brewing origin<br />
from the region that is now<br />
the Czech Republic.<br />
Make no mistake there’s a great deal to serving beer in<br />
Belgium. It has to be in absolutely the right glass. Every major<br />
brewer has a distinctive glass emblazoned with the brewery’s<br />
logo. The shapes vary and one, Kwak, has to be stood in a<br />
wooden frame! Your barman will ensure that you get your<br />
beer in the correct glass.<br />
One brand, Duvel – ‘devil’ in Dutch – has a considerable head<br />
on the beer and engraved in the base of the glass is the<br />
company’s distinctive D logo. This releases CO2 to produce a<br />
letter D on the top of the beer! Clever stuff and, although the<br />
beer is light and delicate, it conceals a heady level of alcohol<br />
at 8.5%.<br />
The variety of shapes are impressive, ranging from tulip,<br />
thistle, spherical bowls through Mosel wine (all with stems)<br />
to tapered tumblers. All of which makes drinking Belgian beer<br />
a rather more varied and interesting experience.<br />
There’s no draught-versus-bottled attitude in Belgium. In fact,<br />
thanks to secondary fermentation in some specialist beers,<br />
ageing in the bottle, resulting in increased alcohol levels and<br />
refined flavours, is a positive bonus.<br />
Image: © Tourism Flanders & Brussels / www.visitflanders.co.uk<br />
Saisons<br />
These are typical country style<br />
beers from the Hainault region<br />
of Belgium and generally hail<br />
from small artisan breweries<br />
and in times gone by were<br />
produced in the winter for<br />
summer consumption.<br />
Lambic beers<br />
From being kindred spirits<br />
with a fino sherry to giving<br />
a Chablis a run for its money<br />
the dryer Lambic beers are<br />
the most wine-like of beers.<br />
Lambic wheat beers include<br />
the Brussels Gueuze, often<br />
called the Champagne of<br />
<strong>Beer</strong>s due to its similarity<br />
of production (secondary<br />
fermentation), its style and<br />
the fact that it has to be<br />
bottled in thick bottles with<br />
a mushroom shaped cork.<br />
Lambics include fruit beer<br />
which is a bit off the wall for<br />
a serious beer drinker but you<br />
will find cherry (kriek) beer,<br />
raspberry (framboise) beer<br />
and peach (pêche) beer along<br />
with many other fruit additions.<br />
The fruits are introduced into<br />
the beer after brewing.<br />
Abbey beers<br />
These are separate from those<br />
produced by the Trappists but<br />
can be of any one of the types<br />
listed above and tend to be<br />
individual, strong beers.<br />
www.dfds.co.uk
A beer quest<br />
A short trip<br />
The pretty, medieval Belgian<br />
city of Bruges (page 5), with<br />
its cobbled streets and redbrick<br />
buildings, is less than<br />
an hour’s drive from the port<br />
of Dunkirk and has five underground<br />
car parks. The centre is<br />
widely pedestrianised and the<br />
bars and beer museums are<br />
within reasonable walking<br />
distance. Why not book at<br />
least a one night stay in<br />
Bruges or, better still a<br />
weekend, and enjoy the beer<br />
museums and bars – not to<br />
mention some delightful hotels<br />
and excellent restaurants? This<br />
compact city is threaded with<br />
canals and bordered by rivers<br />
and you can add lace and<br />
chocolates to your indulgences<br />
if you wish.<br />
On the way back why not<br />
meander through the delights<br />
of the coast road (page 4) and<br />
stop at some of the specialist<br />
bars en route?<br />
A longer trip<br />
You’ll have naturally included<br />
the charms of Bruges (see<br />
short trip) before driving on<br />
to Brussels (page 8). Just an<br />
hour’s drive on from Bruges,<br />
there’s even more to discover<br />
about brewing and the vast<br />
variety of Belgian beers. The<br />
capital is a gourmet heaven<br />
with plenty of restaurants,<br />
bistros and cafés. Be sure to<br />
make time for shopping at the<br />
elegant Victorian glass-roofed<br />
Galeries St Hubert – choose<br />
some chocolates perhaps –<br />
or visiting the museums,<br />
including the unique Museum<br />
of Comic Strip Art and, as you<br />
may have guessed, the beer<br />
museums too.<br />
From Brussels point your car<br />
northwards to take in the<br />
various bars to be found in<br />
Antwerp, St Niklaas and Ghent<br />
(pages 6&7) before heading<br />
home with a boot full of beer<br />
bounty!<br />
Image: © Tourism Flanders & Brussels / www.visitflanders.co.uk<br />
Bars and Restaurants<br />
Sampling Belgian beers in their many varieties is a<br />
delightful voyage of discovery. Belgian bars, cafés,<br />
restaurants and taverns vary from plain and basic with<br />
amber-timbered interiors to slick, chic and stylish. If in<br />
doubt, follow the golden rule and check out what’s popular<br />
with the locals. We have selected some in the main cities<br />
and beer tourist towns.<br />
Festivals and Museums<br />
It is only when you discover just how many <strong>Beer</strong> Festivals<br />
are held each year and how many places boast a beer<br />
museum that you realise the importance of Belgium’s beer<br />
culture. Most festivals take place at roughly the same time<br />
each year but you should check dates via the web site<br />
www.visitbelgium.com <strong>Beer</strong> festivals are a short-cut to<br />
tasting a wide range of beers and buying some to take<br />
home without having to visit individual breweries. Why<br />
not make a festival an excuse for a short break, driving<br />
directly to the area in question?<br />
Very often you will find that the museums are incorporated<br />
into breweries and many of them are working examples of<br />
how the brewing process is done.<br />
Explore a beer quest<br />
If you take to the side roads<br />
and explore the countryside<br />
you’ll discover that Belgian<br />
towns and villages have a<br />
wealth of interesting bars<br />
with, maybe, less choice but<br />
full of rural atmosphere. With<br />
the freedom of being able to<br />
stop where and when you<br />
wish you’ll probably discover<br />
some gems of bars of your own!<br />
Longer or more<br />
specific trips<br />
The shrewd beer-hunter with<br />
more time to spare will check<br />
out the various beer festivals<br />
dotted throughout the country<br />
and the calendar. A quick<br />
browse through the options<br />
on the following pages will<br />
give you some ideas.<br />
Look for the pennant flag<br />
logo to spot the festivals or go<br />
on to www.visitbelgium.com<br />
for the latest dates and<br />
venues. If you find yourself<br />
in Belgium at the time of a<br />
festival why not make the<br />
detour? Or, better still, plan<br />
a visit to coincide with a<br />
particular festival. Very often<br />
the out-of-city ones may not<br />
be as slick but they more than<br />
make up for that in character.<br />
Pick out the bars in festival<br />
territory – they’re probably the<br />
best, even when there’s no<br />
festival taking place.<br />
Look out for the<br />
pennant flag logo<br />
to spot the festivals.<br />
TEL: 08715 747242 3<br />
Image: © Tourism Flanders & Brussels / www.visitflanders.co.uk
4<br />
Image: © Tourism Flanders & Brussels / www.visitflanders.co.uk<br />
Explore beer<br />
Follow<br />
the coast<br />
road...<br />
From Dunkirk take the N34<br />
road that follows the dunelined<br />
coastline. <strong>Beer</strong> based<br />
venues apart, the towns and<br />
villages that you’ll<br />
encounter provide attractive<br />
diversions that are easily<br />
discovered just by turning<br />
off the main road.<br />
Traditional seaside hotels<br />
make an appealing base,<br />
especially if you fancy some<br />
fresh sea breezes!<br />
De Haan<br />
Torre<br />
With miles of sandy beach, old<br />
style hospitality and horseriding<br />
in the shallows, this town is<br />
Belgium’s answer to Deauville.<br />
The Torre is unmissable – look<br />
for the yellow building with<br />
the red stripes! This arty, lively<br />
café offers 150 beers and<br />
snacks throughout the day<br />
and music in the evenings.<br />
2 Hans Memlinglaan,<br />
De Haan<br />
Tel: +32 (0)59 23 65 32<br />
Oostduinkerke<br />
Peerdevisschers<br />
Peerdevisschers is an oldfashioned,<br />
high-ceilinged bar<br />
next to a museum that tells<br />
the story of how fishing from<br />
horse-back is done. (Here<br />
shrimping is still done astride<br />
sturdy Brabant horses.)<br />
Alternatively stop off at the<br />
elegant Rubens with its<br />
summer sun terrace or the<br />
modern Barkentijn café.<br />
All have ample lists of brews<br />
from which to choose!<br />
4 Pastoor Schmitzstraat,<br />
Oostduinkerke<br />
Rubens: 442 Zeedij<br />
Barkentijn: 461 Zeedijk<br />
Middelkerke<br />
Iceberg<br />
Apart from a collection of<br />
400 stoneware beer mugs,<br />
the Iceberg café also lists<br />
nearly 100 beers and serves<br />
snack foods. Also handy for<br />
the casino.<br />
132 Zeedijk, Middelkerke<br />
Tel: +32 (0)59 30 48 79<br />
Blankenberge<br />
Brasseur<br />
More dunes, sand, sailing<br />
boats and sixty hotels make<br />
this town just the place to<br />
stay for exploring the region.<br />
The Brasseur is the towns<br />
beer-hunter’s haven and<br />
overlooks a public park. With<br />
a comprehensive list of beers<br />
including Trappist and St<br />
Bernardus de Dolle Brouwers<br />
and a good menu of snacks,<br />
it also has a heated terrace.<br />
34-38 Leopoldstraat,<br />
Blankenberge<br />
Tel: +32 (0)50 41 41 34<br />
Closed: Mon-Tue: Oct-Easter,<br />
Tue: Easter-Sept<br />
Open: Every day Jul & Aug<br />
Image: © Tourism Flanders & Brussels / www.visitflanders.co.uk<br />
Image: Victor van Werkhooven<br />
Ostend<br />
This major seaport is<br />
adjacent to 15 km of sandy<br />
beaches and, with plenty<br />
of hotels, is an ideal base<br />
for family holidays.<br />
Botteltje<br />
With some 300 beers listed,<br />
this bar is located beneath<br />
a hotel and has a restaurant<br />
specialising in fish and<br />
steaks. The beers include<br />
many from smaller<br />
independent breweries and<br />
distinctive winter brews.<br />
19 Louisastraat, Ostend<br />
Tel: +32 (0)59 70 09 28<br />
‘t Kroegske<br />
With its bizarre exterior this<br />
bar is fun and friendly. It’s<br />
small, arty, scruffy and smokey<br />
– but an Ostend landmark.<br />
Most regulars speak English!<br />
Sint-Paulusstraat 80, Ostend<br />
Tel: +32 (0)59 80 81 91<br />
Illusie<br />
This original and arty café<br />
also has a small theatre at<br />
the back of the bar room. The<br />
language may be a barrier to<br />
comprehension but you could<br />
be in for an intriguing evening<br />
nonetheless!<br />
19 Graaf de Smet de<br />
Naeyerlaan, Ostend<br />
www.dfds.co.uk
Image: © Tourism Flanders & Brussels / www.visitflanders.co.uk<br />
Bruges<br />
Bruges’ Fool at<br />
De Halve Maan<br />
De Halve Mann<br />
Top European short-break city, Bruges has all the ingredients<br />
for a grown-up short stay. Chocolate box architecture, good<br />
hotels and restaurants, super shops – especially those selling<br />
chocolates – and bars as lovely as this medieval city.<br />
See inside front cover for city map with locations and parking.<br />
Image: courtesy of Vlissinghe<br />
Vlissinghe<br />
De Halve Maan<br />
The Half Moon Brewery is the oldest brewery in Bruges, dating<br />
back to the 16th century. The latest creation of the brewer,<br />
Xavier Maes, is called Bruges’ Fool (de Brugse Zot). The museum<br />
presents an unique opportunity to discover the old traditional<br />
brewing methods in Bruges.<br />
Daily tours, at which experienced <strong>guide</strong>s teach you everything<br />
about malt and hops, last 45 minutes. You’ll also get a<br />
panoramic view over Bruges. The tour costs €6.00 per person,<br />
which includes tasting the beer, Brugse Zot blond. There is also<br />
a grill room and, in summer, you can eat in the courtyard.<br />
The Half Moon also publishes the Bruges <strong>Beer</strong> Walk <strong>guide</strong>,<br />
a trek of discovery to Bruges’ historic sites that are linked by<br />
beer, lasting an hour and a half.<br />
26 Walplien, Bruges Tel: +32 (0)50 33 26 97 www.halvemaan.be<br />
Tours on the hour: Apr - Oct: Sun-Fri: 11.00-16.00, Sat: 11.00-17.00<br />
Nov - Mar: Mon-Fri: 11.00 and 15.00, Sat: 11.00-17.00,<br />
Sun: 11.00-16.00<br />
Vlissinghe<br />
Bruges’ oldest and most<br />
traditional café dates back<br />
to 1515 and the painter<br />
Van Dyck drank here. Good<br />
beers to choose from even<br />
if the list is less than thirty,<br />
small by Belgian standards!<br />
2a Blekersstraat, Bruges<br />
Tel: +32 (0)50 34 37 37<br />
Closed: Mon & Tue<br />
Image: Brugs <strong>Beer</strong>tje<br />
Brugs <strong>Beer</strong>tje<br />
Brugs <strong>Beer</strong>tje<br />
Brugs <strong>Beer</strong>tje<br />
This famous bar is a beerdrinkers’<br />
heaven and, it is<br />
said, where the Good <strong>Beer</strong><br />
Guide Belgium was conceived.<br />
The distinguished beer list<br />
tops 250 and both locals<br />
and visitors make for ‘The<br />
Little Bruges Bear’. Full of<br />
traditional atmosphere and<br />
chatty customers.<br />
5 Kemelstraat, Bruges<br />
Tel: +32 (0)50 33 96 16<br />
Closed: Wed<br />
Bargehuis<br />
Child friendly, this bar has<br />
a repertoire of 100 beers,<br />
including some unusual<br />
regionals.<br />
2 Bargeweg, Bruges<br />
Tel: +32 (0)50 96 10 00<br />
TEL: 08715 747242 5<br />
Image: Brugs <strong>Beer</strong>tje
6<br />
Image: GLUE STOCK<br />
Explore beer<br />
A few words that may come in useful when<br />
exploring the labels of Belgian <strong>Beer</strong>s<br />
L’orge Barley<br />
Une bière de garde <strong>Beer</strong> that has been laid down<br />
or kept<br />
Les houblons Hops<br />
Le panaché Shandy<br />
La pression Draught<br />
Le blé Wheat<br />
La levure Yeast<br />
L’etiquette Label<br />
Le brassage Brewery<br />
Fermentation basse Low or bottom Fermentation<br />
Fermentation haute High or top Fermentation<br />
Ghent<br />
This is a city with a history, and the buildings, with their<br />
illustrious facades along the Graslei quayside, date back<br />
to medieval times. Visit the Gravensteen Castle with its<br />
macabre exhibits or mingle in the bars with the student<br />
population, a few of whom study brewing here!<br />
See inside front cover for city map with locations and parking.<br />
Aba-Jour<br />
Derived from the French<br />
for a lampshade, ‘abat-jour,’<br />
this candle-lit Art Nouveau<br />
saloon has a terrace at the<br />
back overlooking the river.<br />
Here they favour Trappist<br />
and lambic beers and serve<br />
some pretty good Belgian<br />
and Italian food.<br />
20 Oudberg, Ghent<br />
Tel: +32 (0)9 234 07 29<br />
Image: © Tourism Flanders & Brussels /<br />
www.visitflanders.co.uk Image: © BI - TC- Olivier van de Kerchove<br />
A Capella<br />
Aimed at the more committed<br />
beer-drinker, this elegantly<br />
porticoed house has a<br />
comfortable candle-lit interior<br />
and a terrace at the back. The<br />
cooking is upmarket and the<br />
beer list tops fifty with some<br />
well-chosen labels.<br />
33 Godshuizenlaan, Ghent<br />
Tel: +32 (0)9 233 77 76<br />
Hopduvel<br />
This is a quaintly-styled, old<br />
pub opening up into a series<br />
of spaces on two floors with<br />
walls covered in posters and<br />
memorabilia. Hopduvel keeps<br />
Image: Lucag<br />
Trappistenhuis<br />
Unsurprisingly, it’s a good bar<br />
for Trappist brews but also<br />
specialises in less common<br />
beers. Several rooms on two<br />
floors have walls covered with<br />
breweriana and incorporate<br />
a library of books about beer.<br />
They keep about 150 beers,<br />
including winter specials in<br />
season, and an open fire to<br />
match.<br />
164 Brabantam, Ghent<br />
Tel: +32 (0)9 224 29 37<br />
200 beers including the local<br />
brew, Stropken, and some<br />
lambics too. The food is<br />
excellent and can be enjoyed<br />
on the pretty terrace.<br />
10 Rokerelstraat, Ghent<br />
Tel: +32 (0)9 225 37 29<br />
Closed: Mon<br />
Prelude<br />
Handy for the weekend<br />
antiques market, this modern<br />
café is strong on Trappist and<br />
brown ales and has a small<br />
outside terrace.<br />
13 Bij St. Jacobs, Ghent<br />
Tel: +32 (0)9 225 04 04<br />
Waterhuis<br />
aan de Bierkant<br />
With a puppet theatre on the<br />
first floor, this cosy, candle-lit<br />
bar is very inviting. There’s a<br />
riverside terrace from which<br />
you can watch the boats,<br />
bikes and trams go by and<br />
food can be obtained from<br />
the adjacent ‘Eethuisje’. The<br />
list of over 100 beers includes<br />
one called ‘Gandavum Dry<br />
Hopping’, brewed to the<br />
owner’s specification.<br />
9 Groentenmarkt, Ghent<br />
Tel: +32 (0)9 225 06 80<br />
www.dfds.co.uk<br />
Image: © BI - TC- Olivier van de Kerchove
Antwerp<br />
Sint Niklaas<br />
Festival<br />
The Zvthos <strong>Beer</strong> Festival is held<br />
in March at Sint Niklaas, Eastern<br />
Flanders. Some 150 beers from<br />
48 breweries are represented.<br />
www.visitbelgium.com<br />
Shipping, diamonds and a zoo all contribute to the Antwerp<br />
of today. Happily for beer-lovers, the attractive Old Town is<br />
where you’ll find the action. Take in the museums, pictures<br />
by Rubens in the Cathedral and the spectacular waterfront<br />
in between sipping the kreiks and the gueuzes!<br />
See inside front cover for city map with locations and parking.<br />
Oud Arsenaal<br />
Pure bar, no food, but increasingly known for its landlord’s<br />
enthusiasm for rare and excellent ales and lambics. Typical<br />
Belgian décor with hints of Art Nouveau and handy for<br />
Rubens’ House; a popular spot with Antwerpers.<br />
4 Maria Pijpelincxstraat, Antwerp Tel: +32 (0)3 232 97 54<br />
Waagstuk<br />
This sixteenth century former coaching inn still has some<br />
original wall paintings. There’s a generous list, including<br />
traditional gueuzes and kreiks as well as some local beers.<br />
Brewed specially for Waagstuk is Zeppelin, a strong, sweet,<br />
roasted stout that is highly recommended. A plentiful range<br />
of bar snacks completes the experience.<br />
20 Stadswaag, Antwerp Tel: +32 (0)3 225 02 19<br />
Image: © Tourism Flanders & Brussels / www.visitflanders.co.uk<br />
Berenbak<br />
Slightly off-piste, this bar combines a collection of over 50 beers<br />
with a straightforward menu. The décor features a collection of<br />
over 1,000 old ties, to which you are welcome to contribute!<br />
17 Minderbroederstraat, Antwerp Tel: +32 (0)3 231 11 73<br />
Kulminator<br />
This star bar has a world wide reputation, largely due to its<br />
astonishing collection of cellar-aged beers. Some of these<br />
go back decades! Its current beers are equally well sampled<br />
and can be enjoyed in the woody interior, lit by candles and<br />
warmed by an open fire in winter. This is the beer hunter’s<br />
dream destination and time should be allowed for the experience<br />
– and for thumbing through the massive list of aged beers!<br />
32 Vleminckveld, Antwerp Tel: +32 (0)3 232 45 38<br />
Image: © Tourism Flanders & Brussels / www.visitflanders.co.uk<br />
Het Elfde Gebod<br />
Het Elfde Gebod<br />
Tucked behind the cathedral<br />
you’ll find this eccentric bar with<br />
religious statues, angels and<br />
church memorabilia on the<br />
walls, making it an original and<br />
appropriate place in which to<br />
taste Trappist and Abbey beers!<br />
The bar’s name is Flemish for<br />
the 11th Commandment which<br />
seems to mean ‘have a good time’.<br />
10 Torfbrug, Antwerp<br />
Tel: +33 (0)3 289 34 65<br />
Image: Sergio Calleja<br />
TEL: 08715 747242 7
8<br />
Image: © OPT - JP Remy<br />
Explore beer<br />
Brussels<br />
Belgium’s ancient capital has museums, restaurants, bars and<br />
a very central brewery. The shopping at Galeries St Hubert is<br />
superb and the chocolates are definitely worth a detour! Hotels<br />
are cheaper at the weekend when the politicians emigrate to<br />
their homes.<br />
Most of the interest is to be found around the Grand’Place<br />
and the district known as the Ile Sacré. If you want a wider<br />
range of things to interest you between glasses of beer,<br />
then Brussels is your city.<br />
See inside front cover for city map with locations<br />
and parking.<br />
Porte Noire<br />
Festivals<br />
Early September is the time<br />
to catch the famous Brussels<br />
<strong>Beer</strong> Weekend which is held<br />
in the Grand’Place. Breweries<br />
of every size and type are<br />
represented while there are<br />
jazz and brass bands and<br />
entertainment for children.<br />
www.weekenddelabiere.be/en<br />
It’s also the month to catch<br />
the Saint-Gilles Bruxellensis<br />
Festival celebrating authentic<br />
beers which deviate from the<br />
sweet and fruity yet show<br />
diversity and flavour. Saint-<br />
Gilles is just south of Brussels.<br />
The Grand’Place<br />
Once the cellars and kitchens of the Convent des Alexiens,<br />
this sixteenth century cellar, with its well and ice store,<br />
is a stunning candle-lit environment in which to quaff beer.<br />
There are three large rooms and with 160 typical Belgian<br />
beers, 11 on draught, and 60 single malt whiskies, not to<br />
mention rums and cocktails, it’s well worth the slight detour.<br />
67 rue des Alexiens, Brussels Tel: +32 (0)2 511 78 37<br />
Image: © BI - TC- Olivier van de Kerchove<br />
Brussels Gueuze Museum<br />
and Cantillon Brewery<br />
M<br />
The living museum of the Gueuze. Experience traditional style<br />
brewing and taste Gueuze-Lambic beers.<br />
56 rue Gheude, 1070, Brussels Tel: +32 (0)2 521 49 28<br />
www.cantillon.be e-mail: info@cantillon.be<br />
Opening times: Mon-Fri: 08.30-17.00; Sat: 10.00-17.00<br />
Les Brasseurs de la Grand Place<br />
Right in the centre of Brussels is the working microbrewery<br />
of Les Brasseurs de la Grand Place where you can buy a beer<br />
at the bar, order a meal and yet be in the thick of the brewing<br />
process. This unique establishment is open until the small hours<br />
every day.<br />
rue de la Colline 24, Brussels Tel: +32 (0)2 512 28 00<br />
www.lesbrasseurs.eu Opening times: 7 days a week 10.00-03.00<br />
Image: Meaglin<br />
www.dfds.co.uk
Images: © Tourism Flanders & Brussels /<br />
www.visitflanders.co.uk<br />
Bier Circus<br />
This straightforward café is known for it’s witty circus details<br />
and a creative list of over 100 beers. The comprehensive menu<br />
includes some dishes cooked in beer, such as duck in Kreik<br />
(cherry beer) and knuckle of ham with mustard and wheat beer.<br />
57 rue de l’Ensignement, Brussels Tel: +32 (0)2 218 00 34<br />
Spinnekopke<br />
Owned by Jean Rodriguez,<br />
who wrote ‘Cuisine Facile<br />
à la Bière’, this bar has a<br />
well chosen stock of nearly<br />
100 beers and features good,<br />
straightforward beer based<br />
cooking. Closed on Monday.<br />
1 Place du Jardin aux Fleurs,<br />
Brussels<br />
Tel: +32 (0)2 511 86 95<br />
Paon Royal<br />
Images: courtesy of Bier Circus<br />
This café-restaurant keeps<br />
around 50-60 beers with<br />
the emphasis on food at<br />
lunchtime, hosting an artistic<br />
clientele in the evenings. The<br />
family-run Royal Peacock has<br />
been here for over 80 years.<br />
6 rue Vieux Marché aux Grains,<br />
Brussels<br />
Tel: +32 (0)2 513 08 68<br />
Image: courtesy of Delirium<br />
Delirium<br />
The name is intriguing but the reality is even more astonishing.<br />
With 2,000 beers on offer, this bar is mentioned in the Guinness<br />
Book of Records! It also claims to stock every new Belgian beer<br />
it can find. It has a large basement bar and, although the food<br />
is limited to dozens of cheeses and dry sausages, they are very<br />
good. Don’t miss this special in the Ile de Sacré.<br />
4a Impasse de la Fidélité, Brussels Tel: +32 (0)2 514 44 34<br />
Poechenellekelder<br />
Despite the puppet theme and being near one of Brussels’ tourist<br />
attractions, the Mannekin Pis, this bar stocks some good beers,<br />
both bottled and on tap. The friendly atmosphere and the<br />
decorations hanging from the ceiling add to the charm.<br />
5 rue de Chêne, Brussels Tel: +32 (0)2 511 92 62<br />
TEL: 08715 747242 9<br />
Image: Michel Wal
10<br />
Image: AtelierJoly<br />
Explore beer<br />
Leuven<br />
Leffe Museum<br />
Archennes<br />
Festival<br />
M<br />
Shows the connection between the Notre-Dame Abbey and<br />
the links to the religious order and the many fascinating<br />
details of the brewing processes. Fabulous setting.<br />
InBev Global HQ, Brouweriplein 1, 3000 Leuven, Belgium<br />
Tel: +32 (0)16 27 61 11 www.leffe.be<br />
Arch’en Biers Festival which highlights lesser known brews of<br />
the Walloon Brabant region takes place in August at Archennes.<br />
www.visitbelgium.com<br />
Liege<br />
The bars of a small group<br />
called Vaudrée are more<br />
likely to bring you to<br />
Belgium’s fifth largest city,<br />
although the old centre is<br />
attractive and there is a<br />
clutch of good museums.<br />
Vaudrée Deux<br />
Number two in a group of<br />
bars in the Liege district,<br />
(Vaudrée, Petit Vaudrée and<br />
Vaudrée Trois are the others),<br />
this is a surprising find in this<br />
busy city. With an international<br />
selection of beers, this bar<br />
also serves straightforward<br />
food. If you want their flagship<br />
establishment, Vaudrée, travel<br />
to 109 Rue du Val Benoit in<br />
the suburb of Angleur. Open<br />
24/7, this bar also serves rare<br />
Scotch whiskies and Belgian<br />
fruit beers.<br />
149 Rue St Gilles, Liege<br />
Tel: +32 (0)4 223 18 80<br />
Image: © Tourism Flanders & Brussels /<br />
www.visitflanders.co.uk<br />
Lustin<br />
Museum of Belgian <strong>Beer</strong>s<br />
This museum boasts more than 15,700<br />
bottles and glasses of Belgian beer<br />
as well as beer-mats, flags, posters<br />
and old advertisements.<br />
rue des Bières Belges, Lustin<br />
Tel: +32 (0) 81 41 11 02<br />
Book by Fax: +32 (0) 81 41 37 66<br />
e-mail: musee.b.b@skynet.be<br />
www.museebieresbelges.centerall.com<br />
Opening times: 08.00-19.00 daily.<br />
Check holidays.<br />
Habay<br />
Festival<br />
Generally held at the end<br />
of October/early November<br />
the Brassigaume is a<br />
specialist international<br />
festival dedicated to small<br />
breweries.<br />
www.visitbelgium.com<br />
M<br />
Hotton<br />
Festival<br />
July sees the gathering of<br />
the breweries of the Belgian<br />
Luxembourg region, exhibiting<br />
at Hotton with tastings and<br />
demonstrations.<br />
Profonderville<br />
Festival<br />
Twice yearly, in May and<br />
October, the Belgian <strong>Beer</strong><br />
Festival is held at Lustin,<br />
Profondeville. Collectables<br />
and beer bric-a-brac are<br />
supplemented by over 850<br />
Belgian beers and beer<br />
based cuisine.<br />
For both these festivals visit:<br />
www.visitbelgium.com<br />
www.dfds.co.uk<br />
Image: © Tourism Flanders & Brussels / www.visitflanders.co.uk
Image: Jean-Pol Grandmont<br />
Orval<br />
Ange Gardien<br />
The famous working abbey<br />
of Orval has appropriately<br />
named its tavern, The<br />
Guardian Angel, where you<br />
can sample its beers. You<br />
can also buy snacks here<br />
and there is a shop selling<br />
Orval beer and local cheeses.<br />
3 rue d’Orval, Orval<br />
Mobile: +32 (0)497 41 75 11<br />
Closed: Mon & Jan<br />
Chimay<br />
The local Abbey at<br />
Scourmont markets its<br />
beers under the name<br />
Chimay so, if you’re in the<br />
area and want to taste the<br />
local beverage (no tasting<br />
at the abbey), this little<br />
self-contained town is your<br />
best bet.<br />
Casino<br />
Living up to its name with<br />
its Art Deco style, gaming<br />
tables and monochrome<br />
photos, this sassy bar does<br />
all the Abbey beers and<br />
more besides, as well as<br />
steaks and grills.<br />
27 Place des Ormeaux,<br />
Chimay<br />
Tel: +32 (0)60 23 49 80<br />
Erquelines<br />
Festival<br />
September sees the annual Hop Festival at Erquelinnes in the<br />
Val de Sambre, an all-round festival with a medley of events<br />
and <strong>guide</strong>d tours of the local brewery.<br />
www.brasserie-brootcoovens-erquelinnes.be<br />
Image: Limowreck<br />
Abbaye Notre Dame d’Orval<br />
Image: CAMRA/Charles D. Cook<br />
Wellin<br />
Festival<br />
The Festival of Special<br />
<strong>Beer</strong>s, Sohier, Wellin is a<br />
three day event showcasing<br />
over 130 beers and is held<br />
in February.<br />
www.sohier-village.be<br />
Mons<br />
War history may bring<br />
you here as Mons featured<br />
significantly in WW1 and<br />
WW2 and has a Museum<br />
of Military History.<br />
Image: Pierrenoel<br />
Image: Jean-Pol Grandmont<br />
Binche<br />
La Binchoise M<br />
Brewery and Museum<br />
See the full brewing process.<br />
Binchoise beers are highfermentation,<br />
non-filtered,<br />
non-pasteurised and<br />
re-fermented in the bottle.<br />
38 Faubourg St Paul, Binche<br />
Tel: +32 (0) 64 37 01 75<br />
info@brasserielabinchoise.be<br />
Opening times: Reservation<br />
mandatory<br />
Festival<br />
The Mons Festival of <strong>Beer</strong> is a<br />
weekend event in June, held in<br />
the Grand’Place with specialist<br />
beer producers exhibiting as<br />
well as the big brands.<br />
www.mons.be<br />
L’Excelsior<br />
This most elegant brasserie<br />
is a lively place serving over<br />
100 beers and a fine selection<br />
of food. Smarter than your<br />
average bar and well worth<br />
a detour.<br />
29 Grand’Place, Mons<br />
Tel: +32 (0)65 36 47 15<br />
Maison des Brasseurs<br />
Facing the Excelsior across the<br />
square this large, mural lined<br />
café is far more modest with<br />
simple bar snacks and half the<br />
selection of beers. Even so there<br />
are enough well-chosen brews<br />
to satisfy most afficionados!<br />
3 Grand’Place, Mons<br />
Tel: +32 (0)65 35 18 28<br />
TEL: 08715 747242 11<br />
Image: © Tourism Flanders & Brussels / www.visitflanders.co.uk
12<br />
Image: Dr Hagen Graebner<br />
Explore beer<br />
National Hops Museum<br />
Poperinge<br />
Hop Carnival<br />
Home to the National<br />
Hop Museum, this market<br />
town hosts a Hop Carnival<br />
on the third weekend of<br />
September every third<br />
year. (2011, 2014, 2017<br />
etc.) So you could find<br />
yourself here for the<br />
celebrations and thirsty.<br />
An interesting exhibition on four floors. Full of interesting<br />
facts – the hop plant can grow by as much as 10cm on a<br />
hot June day!<br />
Gasthuisstraat 71, Poperinge Tel: +32 (0)2 521 49 28<br />
e-mail: hopmuseum@poperinge.be www.hopmuseum.be<br />
Opening times: Tue-Fri: 10.00-18.00; Sat-Sun: 14.00-18.00<br />
Closed: Some public holidays Cost: 5 Euros<br />
Paix<br />
With over 100 beers and a good selection of food, including<br />
steak and eel, this café-restaurant welcomes children.<br />
20 Grote Markt, Poperinge Tel: +32 (0)57 33 95 78<br />
Palace<br />
This family-run hotel is an ideal place to stay and, with<br />
around 100 beers featuring local and lambic brews, runs<br />
a good bar. The dining room specialises in Flemish cuisine<br />
and top quality beef. Check out the Palace’s own beer festival<br />
at the end of October but beware, it is closed for holidays in<br />
high summer.<br />
34 Leperstraat, Poperinge Tel: +32 (0)57 33 30 93<br />
M<br />
Images: © Tourism Flanders & Brussels / www.visitflanders.co.uk<br />
Image: National Hops Museum<br />
This ends the circuit of<br />
places of beer related<br />
interest in Belgium. It is by<br />
no means an exhaustive<br />
survey but, if this has<br />
whetted your appetite or<br />
turned you into a Belgian<br />
beer enthusiast, check out<br />
the CAMRA (Campaign for<br />
Real Ale) Good <strong>Beer</strong> Guide<br />
Belgium by Tim Webb<br />
which is full of interesting<br />
nuggets of information and<br />
many more bars.<br />
Pack a book<br />
National Hops Museum<br />
If you are fascinated by the<br />
subject, there are several<br />
worthwhile books on the<br />
beers of France and Belgium.<br />
The <strong>Beer</strong>s of Wallonia<br />
John Woods and Keith Rigley<br />
The Artisan Press 1996<br />
The <strong>Beer</strong>s of France<br />
John Woods and Keith Rigley<br />
The Artisan Press 1998<br />
Great <strong>Beer</strong>s of Belgium<br />
Michael Jackson<br />
MMC 2001<br />
Good <strong>Beer</strong> Guide Belgium<br />
Tim Webb<br />
CAMRA<br />
www.dfds.co.uk
The pleasures of the<br />
open road<br />
Driving in France and Belgium is a joy to<br />
anyone used to the clogged up roads of<br />
Britain. As the kilometres speed by, you<br />
pass through a rural landscape that hasn’t<br />
changed in decades. With little effort you<br />
can turn on to small side roads to find a<br />
shady picnic spot or a town with an inviting<br />
restaurant. While the French and Belgians<br />
have embraced modern technology, they<br />
have steadfastly refused to let go of their<br />
heritage or ‘patrimoine’ and eating well is<br />
of great importance.<br />
Before you go<br />
Make sure you have all<br />
compulsory documents<br />
and equipment.<br />
Documents<br />
You may be asked to produce<br />
your documents at any time.<br />
Be sure that the following are<br />
in order and readily available<br />
for inspection.<br />
• A valid full driving licence<br />
(not provisional), with<br />
paper counterpart if you<br />
have a photocard licence<br />
• The original vehicle<br />
registration document<br />
• Your motor insurance<br />
certificate with cover for<br />
European travel<br />
• Your passport<br />
Equipment<br />
You must make sure that your<br />
vehicle is correctly equipped<br />
as follows:<br />
• GB sticker. UK registered<br />
vehicles displaying Europlates<br />
(circle of 12 stars<br />
above the national<br />
identifier on blue background)<br />
do not need a<br />
GB sticker<br />
• Warning triangle<br />
• Reflective jacket/waistcoat<br />
for the driver and all<br />
passengers<br />
• Headlamp adjustment<br />
for driving on the right<br />
• Spare bulb kit<br />
• First aid kit and fire<br />
extinguisher (not compulsory<br />
but recommended)<br />
Seat belts<br />
Front and rear seat passengers<br />
are required to use seat belts,<br />
where fitted. Children up to<br />
9 months old may travel in<br />
the front seat if in a rearfacing<br />
child’s seat, except<br />
where an airbag is installed.<br />
Children under 10 must travel<br />
in the rear seats.<br />
Driving on the right<br />
It is advisable to have an<br />
external rear view mirror<br />
fitted if you do not already<br />
have one. Driving on the right<br />
needs care and attention<br />
particularly at junctions and<br />
when negotiating roundabouts.<br />
The French rule of<br />
‘priority to the right’ (priorité<br />
à droite) is still relevant in<br />
towns where, in the absence<br />
of any road markings or a<br />
yellow lozenge on a signpost,<br />
drivers entering the road<br />
you are on from your right<br />
take precedence. Useful<br />
information on travelling in<br />
France and Belgium can be<br />
obtained from the Automobile<br />
Association website:<br />
www.theaa.com<br />
Drinking and driving<br />
France and Belgium have<br />
stricter limits than the UK.<br />
If the level of alcohol in the<br />
bloodstream is 0.5mg/ml or<br />
more (0.2mg/ml for bus/coach<br />
drivers), severe penalties<br />
include fine, imprisonment<br />
and/or confiscation of driving<br />
licence. The only safe rule is<br />
if you drink, don’t drive.<br />
SPEED LIMITS: FRANCE<br />
Motoring information<br />
Motorways 130 km/h (81 mph)<br />
110 km/h wet* (68 mph)<br />
Some motorways have tolls (Péage) and you should keep<br />
a handful of euros available, or you can pay by credit card.<br />
Two lane highway 110 km/h (68 mph)<br />
100 km/h wet* (62 mph)<br />
Open road 90 km/h (56 mph)<br />
80 km/h wet* (50 mph)<br />
Towns 50 km/h (31 mph)<br />
Town limits may only be defined by the name of the town<br />
on a white background with a red border at the start and the<br />
same sign with a black diagonal line through it on your exit.<br />
* Drivers with less than 2 years full licence are subject to wet weather<br />
limits.<br />
SPEED LIMITS: BELGIUM<br />
Speeding<br />
Both countries have strict<br />
limits and radar traps and you<br />
can be fined on the spot. In<br />
France speeding at 25km/h<br />
above the limit can lead to<br />
your licence being confiscated.<br />
On-the-spot fines or ‘deposits’<br />
can be severe.<br />
Motorways & dual carriageway 120 km/h (74 mph)<br />
Open road 90 km/h (56 mph)<br />
Towns 50 km/h (31 mph)<br />
Nr hospitals schools etc 30 km/h (19 mph)<br />
TEL: 08715 747242 13
<strong>DFDS</strong> <strong>Seaways</strong><br />
Eastern Docks<br />
Dover<br />
Kent CT16 1JA<br />
Tel: 08715 747242<br />
www.dfds.co.uk