TheLoWDoWN - Rotary Down Under

TravellerTo sample the flavour of local life, attending a churchservice lends a certain fascination, and it doesn’t matterif you’re religious or not; the islanders make you verywelcome. Attending church is a very important part ofcommunity life. Each Sunday the locals arrive in neatlypressed white suits and dresses. We joined in with thesinging of melodies and traditional hymns that were sungwith such tumultuous expression that we wondered if thechurch roof might not cave in.The odd clip over the ear for any of the childrenclimbing over the pews seems par for the course, butslightly embarrassing for us was our gold coin donations,which seemed rather nondescript alongside several $50notes in the plate. After the service we were invited tothe traditional morning tea and it occurred to us thatthere were few other places we knew where it waspossible to share in the warmth and hospitality of asmall-town community.We were then off to explore the second most visitedisland, ignored by many, probably because it’s expensiveto stay here. Acknowledged as one of the most beautifuldestinations on earth, the mystical island of Aitutaki is a45-minute flight from Rarotonga. Its unique beauty andgentle pace of life will hold the visitor spellbound.While much smaller than Rarotonga, it’s more invitingand laid back. Since our first visit 25 years ago a numberof five-star resorts have been built to cater for those withgenerous budgets. Otherwise, the best way to experienceAitutaki is to take a day tour with Air Raro, which includesan island tour followed by a day’s discovery, swimmingand snorkelling on a 41-metre catamaran.Made up of 13 islands encircled by a huge turquoiselagoon, how can there be so many tones, half-tones andeven quarter-tones of blue? Each of the islands is edgedwith white sandy beaches and coconut trees.Our eight-hour voyage on a magical wakalikecatamaran included island stopovers, abarbecue lunch and lots of entertainment.Barely 20 minutes from shore, we jumpedflippers first into the sea. The snorkelling ishypnotic; so much so we became unwittingconductors in an undersea symphony of everytype of marine life imaginable; deft little fishin monotones of black and white or yellow,others with smart colourful arrangements inall sizes and shapes.Anchoring at One Foot Island, manyhave brought their passports to be proudlystamped at the tiny post office. Walking halfwayaround we wade into the lagoon, not asoul to be seen, cloudless skies, clear bluewaters and no horizon in sight. It’s odd thatan atoll flush with endless ocean can hide aboat and 25 people. We’re utterly alone.Six days were barely enough, even though we packeda lot into every one of them. At the airport the sadnessof leaving started to crowd in, but like the island itselfthe singing and ukuleles wove a spell of happiness. Thena boarding call, “Take your time, but hurry up”. It wasthen we knew that we would be back! •Fact FileGetting there: Air New Zealand flies daily toRarotonga. Contact Air New Zealand Holidays on0800 747 222 or log on to www.airnewzealand.co.nzGetting around: Rentals the best option, plus thenormal add-onsWhere to stay: Muri Beach Club Hotel, log on towww.wrd.com.auBest eats: Trader Jack’s (seafood), Silver Sands(modern Polynesian), Stefano’s (Italian), TheSands (international), Sails (seafood), Tamarind(international)Cheap eats: Le Bon Vivant, Flying Boat Grill, SalasCafé, Café Ariki, The MooringFurther information: www.cookislands.travelDennis and Rosamund Knill were assisted by AirNew Zealand, Air Raro, Southern Cross TravelInsurance and Air New Zealand Parking.54 Issue 548. March 2013