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THE DYNAMICS OFCOASTAL MODELSCliffo
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ContentsPrefacepage ixAcknowledgeme
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Contentsvii9 Aspects of stratificat
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xPrefacethe word model, ormodeling,
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Geomorphic classification of ocean
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Geomorphic classification of ocean
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Geomorphic classification of ocean
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Geomorphic classification of ocean
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Distinctive features of coastal bas
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Distinctive features of coastal bas
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Distinctive features of coastal bas
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Distinctive features of coastal bas
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Distinctive features of coastal bas
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Distinctive features of coastal bas
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Types of model 23is a distinction b
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Types of model 251.4.3 Theory or mo
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Types of model 27a system and analy
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Terminology in the sciences of wate
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Further reading 311.6 Further readi
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Position of a point 33horizontal pl
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Velocities 35Whatever method is use
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Velocities 37the vertical velocity
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NFluxes 39San FranciscoLosAngelesTo
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Two-dimensional models 41fluxes mul
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Volume continuity equation 43zH inu
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Volume continuity equation 45dxw (z
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Sources and sinks 47either grow in
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Sources and sinks 490.2y0.10−3
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functions, such as a surface wind s
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Linearized continuity equation 53wh
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Potential flow 55In coastal basins
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It follows that we can derive V fro
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Potential flow 59contours of the re
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Conformal mapping 61If S is imagina
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Conformal mapping 63Figure 2.12 Pot
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Conformal mapping 65Figure 2.13 Pot
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3Box and one-dimensional models3.1
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Examples of box models 69Volume exc
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quantity) and S and V are zero orde
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Examples of box models 73If R varie
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Examples of box models 75Table 3.2.
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Examples of box models 77evaporatio
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Examples of box models 79Table 3.5.
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This V tidal comes from the ocean a
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Examples of box models 83Table 3.6.
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Examples of box models 85QheatingT
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derivative of F s with respect to x
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One-dimensional models 89Table 3.8.
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One-dimensional models 913.4.2 Rive
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40Simple models of chemical and bio
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Simple models of chemical and biolo
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This type of box model of ecologica
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Simple models of chemical and biolo
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Further reading 1011Nutrient concen
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Pressure 103@u@t þ u @u ¼ F1 þ F
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Pressure 105Note that ( z) is the h
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Pressure 107We shall attempt to fin
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Pressure 1090z/ h−0.5values of kh
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Pressure 11110.500 10 20Figure 4.3
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Shear stress 113speed at which the
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Shear stress 115shear stress, we sh
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Oscillators 117and repeating this p
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Oscillators 11910 2 Relative an gul
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Oscillators 121Table 4.1. Matlab co
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Oscillators 1231.511.51y0.50y0.50-0
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Effects of a rotating Earth 125110.
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Effects of a rotating Earth 127cfcc
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Effects of a rotating Earth 129for
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Effects of a rotating Earth 13167 m
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Effects of a rotating Earth 133the
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Effects of a rotating Earth 135rota
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Effects of a rotating Earth 137of t
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5Simple hydrodynamic models5.1 Wind
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Wind blowing over irrotational basi
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Wind blowing over irrotational basi
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Wind blowing over irrotational basi
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Wind blowing over irrotational basi
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Wind blowing over irrotational basi
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Wind blowing over irrotational basi
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Wind blowing over irrotational basi
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Ekman balance 1550wind stress−1y
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Ekman balance 1570y-10r = 0.1r = 0.
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Ekman balance 159z 0 zL E(5:41)whe
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Ekman balance 161and using the defi
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Ekman balance 163110.50.5windstress
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Ekman balance 165wind, and as f inc
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Geostrophic balance 167cIncreasingp
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Geostrophic balance 169300y (km)200
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Geostrophic balance 171300y (km)200
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Isostatic equilibrium 173dispersal
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Further reading 175and this is call
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Astronomical tides 177slowly damp t
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Astronomical tides 179can be estima
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Astronomical tides 181Table 6.1. As
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Astronomical tides 183Table 6.3. Ob
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Astronomical tides 185If we add (6.
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Long waves 187initial condition). T
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One-dimensional hydrodynamic models
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One-dimensional hydrodynamic models
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One-dimensional hydrodynamic models
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One-dimensional hydrodynamic models
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One-dimensional hydrodynamic models
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One-dimensional hydrodynamic models
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One-dimensional hydrodynamic models
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Two-dimensional models 203and so as
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Two-dimensional models 205u facevfu
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Two-dimensional models 207(b)100y0.
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Two-dimensional models 2091−50−
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Two-dimensional models 211212019181
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Two-dimensional models 213Table 6.1
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Model speed and the cube rule 215ac
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Model speed and the cube rule 217wh
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Horizontal grids 219Figure 6.21 A g
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Horizontal grids 221field region in
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Vertical structure of model grids 2
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Vertical structure of model grids 2
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Further reading 2276.9 Further read
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Theory of mixing 229mixing or in th
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Theory of mixing 231initial height
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Theory of mixing 233Let us write th
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Theory of mixing 235Table 7.1. Nota
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Theory of mixing 237be the seasonal
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Theory of mixing 239stratified. Str
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Theory of mixing 2410surfacewindwin
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Theory of mixing 243that w e decrea
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Theory of mixing 245i.e., replace t
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For a non-stratified water column i
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Mixing processes and spatial scale
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- Page 540: The logarithmic layer 255momentum p
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- Page 560: 7.8 Friction and energy7.8.1 Energy
- Page 564: Friction and energy 267whereF ð h
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- Page 576: Dispersion in coastal basins 273whe
- Page 580: The logarithmic boundary layer 275A
- Page 586: 278 Mixing in coastal basins15linea
- Page 590: 280 Mixing in coastal basinsor~B s
- Page 594: 282 Mixing in coastal basinsand so
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- Page 610: 290 Advection of momentumcurrent (m
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302 Advection of momentum0alongshor
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304 Advection of momentumIt essenti
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306 Advection of momentumthrough ti
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308 Advection of momentumbasin, is
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310 Advection of momentumso that by
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312 Advection of momentum3R = 10F <
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314 Advection of momentumThe bottom
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316 Advection of momentumR= 1.5;
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318 Advection of momentumBottom slo
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9Aspects of stratification9.1 Solar
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322 Aspects of stratificationpresen
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324 Aspects of stratificationKineti
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326 Aspects of stratification 1 @ @
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328 Aspects of stratificationT 1 T
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330 Aspects of stratificationand th
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332 Aspects of stratification9.2.1
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334 Aspects of stratificationeither
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336 Aspects of stratification(9.53)
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338 Aspects of stratification0.1G00
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340 Aspects of stratification0Az Ð
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342 Aspects of stratificationTable
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344 Aspects of stratificationwind s
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(a) (b)(c) (d)Figure 9.7 The dotted
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348 Aspects of stratificationcan ch
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BBBBBBBBB350 Dynamics of partially
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352 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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354 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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356 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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358 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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360 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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362 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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364 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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366 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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368 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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370 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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372 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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374 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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376 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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378 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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380 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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382 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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384 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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386 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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388 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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390 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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392 Dynamics of partially mixed bas
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11Roughness in coastal basins11.1 I
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396 Roughness in coastal basinscomp
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398 Roughness in coastal basins4.5A
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400 Roughness in coastal basinsof c
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402 Roughness in coastal basins1005
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404 Roughness in coastal basinswher
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406 Roughness in coastal basinsout
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408 Roughness in coastal basinsmari
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410 Roughness in coastal basinsGulf
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412 Roughness in coastal basinsstru
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414 Roughness in coastal basinswher
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416 Roughness in coastal basinsTabl
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418 Roughness in coastal basins0.02
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420 Roughness in coastal basins0.5p
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422 Roughness in coastal basinswave
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424 Roughness in coastal basinsThe
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426 Roughness in coastal basinsTabl
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0.050.050.03TKETKESε S ε0.03TKE (
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N430 Roughness in coastal basinsO A
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432 Roughness in coastal basinsFigu
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434 Roughness in coastal basinscurr
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12Wave and sediment dynamics12.1 In
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438 Wave and sediment dynamics0.04s
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440 Wave and sediment dynamicsthe s
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442 Wave and sediment dynamicsSigni
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444 Wave and sediment dynamicsTable
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446 Wave and sediment dynamics10001
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448 Wave and sediment dynamicsmoved
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450 Wave and sediment dynamicsLet u
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452 Wave and sediment dynamicsTable
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454 Wave and sediment dynamicscumul
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456 Wave and sediment dynamicsHence
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458 Wave and sediment dynamics12.5.
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460 Wave and sediment dynamics100be
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462 Wave and sediment dynamicssuspe
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464 Wave and sediment dynamicsand (
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466 Wave and sediment dynamics10 6
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468 Wave and sediment dynamics wwc
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470 Wave and sediment dynamicsJulie
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472 ReferencesHatcher, B. G. (1990)
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474 ReferencesWhitehead, J. A. (199
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476 Indexbasin (cont.)neutralone-di
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478 Indexdensity (cont.)fronts in b
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480 IndexFram 156Fredsøe, Jørgen
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482 IndexLagrange, Joseph L. 287Lag
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484 Indexphase plane (cont.)node 38
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486 Indexsidereal day 130sigmacoord
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488 Indexviscosity (cont.)near awal