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THE DYNAMICS OFCOASTAL MODELSCliffo
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ContentsPrefacepage ixAcknowledgeme
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Contentsvii9 Aspects of stratificat
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xPrefacethe word model, ormodeling,
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Geomorphic classification of ocean
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Geomorphic classification of ocean
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Geomorphic classification of ocean
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Geomorphic classification of ocean
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Distinctive features of coastal bas
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Distinctive features of coastal bas
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Distinctive features of coastal bas
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Distinctive features of coastal bas
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Distinctive features of coastal bas
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Distinctive features of coastal bas
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Types of model 23is a distinction b
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Types of model 251.4.3 Theory or mo
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Types of model 27a system and analy
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Terminology in the sciences of wate
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Further reading 311.6 Further readi
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Position of a point 33horizontal pl
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Velocities 35Whatever method is use
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Velocities 37the vertical velocity
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NFluxes 39San FranciscoLosAngelesTo
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Two-dimensional models 41fluxes mul
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Volume continuity equation 43zH inu
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Volume continuity equation 45dxw (z
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Sources and sinks 47either grow in
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Sources and sinks 490.2y0.10−3
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functions, such as a surface wind s
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Linearized continuity equation 53wh
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Potential flow 55In coastal basins
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It follows that we can derive V fro
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Potential flow 59contours of the re
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Conformal mapping 61If S is imagina
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Conformal mapping 63Figure 2.12 Pot
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Conformal mapping 65Figure 2.13 Pot
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3Box and one-dimensional models3.1
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Examples of box models 69Volume exc
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quantity) and S and V are zero orde
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Examples of box models 73If R varie
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Examples of box models 75Table 3.2.
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Examples of box models 77evaporatio
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Examples of box models 79Table 3.5.
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This V tidal comes from the ocean a
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Examples of box models 83Table 3.6.
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Examples of box models 85QheatingT
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derivative of F s with respect to x
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One-dimensional models 89Table 3.8.
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One-dimensional models 913.4.2 Rive
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40Simple models of chemical and bio
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Simple models of chemical and biolo
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This type of box model of ecologica
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Simple models of chemical and biolo
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Further reading 1011Nutrient concen
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Pressure 103@u@t þ u @u ¼ F1 þ F
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Pressure 105Note that ( z) is the h
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Pressure 107We shall attempt to fin
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Pressure 1090z/ h−0.5values of kh
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Pressure 11110.500 10 20Figure 4.3
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Shear stress 113speed at which the
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Shear stress 115shear stress, we sh
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Oscillators 117and repeating this p
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Oscillators 11910 2 Relative an gul
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Oscillators 121Table 4.1. Matlab co
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Oscillators 1231.511.51y0.50y0.50-0
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Effects of a rotating Earth 125110.
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Effects of a rotating Earth 127cfcc
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Effects of a rotating Earth 129for
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Effects of a rotating Earth 13167 m
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Effects of a rotating Earth 133the
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Effects of a rotating Earth 135rota
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Effects of a rotating Earth 137of t
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5Simple hydrodynamic models5.1 Wind
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Wind blowing over irrotational basi
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Wind blowing over irrotational basi
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Wind blowing over irrotational basi
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Wind blowing over irrotational basi
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Wind blowing over irrotational basi
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Wind blowing over irrotational basi
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Wind blowing over irrotational basi
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Ekman balance 1550wind stress−1y
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Ekman balance 1570y-10r = 0.1r = 0.
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Ekman balance 159z 0 zL E(5:41)whe
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Ekman balance 161and using the defi
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Ekman balance 163110.50.5windstress
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Ekman balance 165wind, and as f inc
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Geostrophic balance 167cIncreasingp
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Geostrophic balance 169300y (km)200
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Geostrophic balance 171300y (km)200
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Isostatic equilibrium 173dispersal
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Further reading 175and this is call
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Astronomical tides 177slowly damp t
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Astronomical tides 179can be estima
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Astronomical tides 181Table 6.1. As
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Astronomical tides 183Table 6.3. Ob
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Astronomical tides 185If we add (6.
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Long waves 187initial condition). T
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One-dimensional hydrodynamic models
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One-dimensional hydrodynamic models
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One-dimensional hydrodynamic models
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One-dimensional hydrodynamic models
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One-dimensional hydrodynamic models
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One-dimensional hydrodynamic models
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One-dimensional hydrodynamic models
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Two-dimensional models 203and so as
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Two-dimensional models 205u facevfu
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Two-dimensional models 207(b)100y0.
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Two-dimensional models 2091−50−
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Two-dimensional models 211212019181
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Two-dimensional models 213Table 6.1
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Model speed and the cube rule 215ac
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Model speed and the cube rule 217wh
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Horizontal grids 219Figure 6.21 A g
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Horizontal grids 221field region in
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Vertical structure of model grids 2
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Vertical structure of model grids 2
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Further reading 2276.9 Further read
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Theory of mixing 229mixing or in th
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Theory of mixing 231initial height
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Theory of mixing 233Let us write th
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Theory of mixing 235Table 7.1. Nota
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Theory of mixing 237be the seasonal
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Theory of mixing 239stratified. Str
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Theory of mixing 2410surfacewindwin
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Theory of mixing 243that w e decrea
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Theory of mixing 245i.e., replace t
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For a non-stratified water column i
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Mixing processes and spatial scale
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Mixing processes and spatial scale
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Mixing processes and spatial scale
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The logarithmic layer 255momentum p
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The logarithmic layer 257(b)u (m s
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The logarithmic layer 259(constant
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The logarithmic layer 2610.5100u (m
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The logarithmic layer 263and so (7.
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7.8 Friction and energy7.8.1 Energy
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Friction and energy 267whereF ð h
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Turbulence closure 269that interrel
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Dispersion in coastal basins 271qua
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Dispersion in coastal basins 273whe
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The logarithmic boundary layer 275A
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The logarithmic boundary layer 277t
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The logarithmic boundary layer 279R
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7.12 Coefficients of skin frictionA
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Coefficients of skin friction 283u
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Further reading 285Burchard, H. (20
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Coordinates for many-particle model
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Coordinates for many-particle model
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Coordinates for many-particle model
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Coordinates for many-particle model
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xxxx(VELOCITY/AROW -LENGTH) SCALEST
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Role of advection in coastal basins
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Role of advection in coastal basins
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Role of advection in coastal basins
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Role of advection in coastal basins
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Hydraulic jumps 305The advection te
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Hydraulic jumps 307zx = x 0η = η
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Hydraulic jumps 309with x can be fo
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Hydraulic jumps 311R = 0.1η′10Br
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Hydraulic jumps 313corresponds to a
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value). However, the steady state a
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Hydraulic jumps 3170Water depth10h
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Further reading 319where u b is an
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Solar heating 321goes to heating th
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simply that the thermal inertia of
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Solar heating 325with densities 1
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Solar heating 327and note that the
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Solar heating 329The basic reason i
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Effect of stratification on vertica
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Effect of stratification on vertica
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Effect of stratification on vertica
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Effect of stratification on vertica
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Effect of stratification on vertica
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Wind-driven currents in stratified
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NWind-driven currents in stratified
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Classification based on vertical st
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Classification based on vertical st
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10Dynamics of partially mixed basin
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Taylor shear dispersion 351Our aim
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Convection 353The velocity shear us
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Convection 355Q /1 @ n(10:14)K z @x
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Convection 357u ¼gh=2 ð2Þ3ð@ z0
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Convection 359i.e., 1.7 10 4 . No
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u 0 ¼Convective transport due to l
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Flow through tidal channels 363tan
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Sub-classification of partially mix
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Dispersion and exchange rates in ba
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Dispersion and exchange rates in ba
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Age of particles 371of these techni
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Age of particles 373 ! flush (10:1
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Age of particles 375026Freshwaterhe
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Age of particles 3770.05current (m
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Large-scale climate cycles 379The E
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Stommel transitions 381gradients. I
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Stommel transitions 38310.10.4 Exch
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Stommel transitions 385Table 10.1 M
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Stommel transitions 3873b0P1P2P3•
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Stommel transitions 3893P3b0P1P2•
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Stommel transitions 3914observed de
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Further reading 393Philander, S. G.
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Skin and form drag 395surfaces beca
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Scales of spatial variability 397Fi
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Scales of spatial variability 399(a
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Models of reef growth 401Table 11.1
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Nutrient uptake 4031005011 50 100Fi
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Nutrient uptake 405arranged on the
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Nutrient uptake 4071diffusive bound
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Hydrodynamics of coral reefs 409acc
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Hydrodynamics of coral reefs 411wat
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Hydrodynamics of coral reefs 41311.
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*******************bottom stress/de
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Hydrodynamics of coral reefs 417bot
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the slope of the bottom and decreas
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Hydrodynamics of coral reefs 421pro
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Hydrodynamics of coral reefs 423whe
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Hydrodynamics of coral reefs 425Tab
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Hydrodynamics of coral reefs 4270.0
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Hydrodynamics of coral reefs 4290.0
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NHydrodynamics of coral reefs 431O
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Hydrodynamics of coral reefs 43311.
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Further reading 435scales. At whate
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Wave models 4373.9surface height (m
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Wave models 439wave frontat outer e
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Wave models 441Wave period (s)3.01.
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Sediment particle size 443Figure 12
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Sediment particle size 445per liter
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Sediment particle size 447buoyancy
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Sediment particle size 44930percent
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- Page 952: Critical shear stress 461Table 12.3
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- Page 972: ReferencesAtkinson, M. J. and R. W.
- Page 976: References 473Mangor, K. (2004). Sh
- Page 980: IndexEntries in italics refer to fi
- Page 986: 478 Indexdensity (cont.)fronts in b
- Page 990: 480 IndexFram 156Fredsøe, Jørgen
- Page 994: 482 IndexLagrange, Joseph L. 287Lag
- Page 998: 484 Indexphase plane (cont.)node 38
- Page 1002: 486 Indexsidereal day 130sigmacoord
- Page 1006: 488 Indexviscosity (cont.)near awal