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Team Associated SC10 reviewed in RRCi - CML Distribution

Team Associated SC10 reviewed in RRCi - CML Distribution

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Electric Truckrrci featureAbove: Geared diff <strong>in</strong>ternals. Extra shims may be neededto get a good meshat the rear, and the front is held <strong>in</strong> place by two ‘T-clamps’, which takejust a quarter turn to lock the reta<strong>in</strong>er onto the cells. So no more fiddl<strong>in</strong>garound with clips or thumb screws.STEERING/FRONT SUSPENSIONFirst th<strong>in</strong>g up <strong>in</strong> the build is the steer<strong>in</strong>g assembly. And already this iswhere my first problem would arise. The majority of the assembly wenttogether OK, but I had big problems gett<strong>in</strong>g the servo saver adjust<strong>in</strong>gbolt to fit on straight and true. It took a few attempts and I found itdifficult to do. So <strong>in</strong> the end I fitted the long steer<strong>in</strong>g bolt <strong>in</strong> first andused this as a guide to get the bolt to screw <strong>in</strong> straight. This workedf<strong>in</strong>e and I don’t know why I didn’t try this method earlier.The steer<strong>in</strong>g pivots on bushes, but I feel bear<strong>in</strong>gs would have been anice touch, so remember not to tighten the steer<strong>in</strong>g bolts up too much orthe steer<strong>in</strong>g won’t do its job properly. It is the same steer<strong>in</strong>g set up that ison the B4 and T4 and can b<strong>in</strong>d if over tightened.All this sits on the front bulkhead that holds the wishbones <strong>in</strong> place.The long wishbones are the ones used on the T4, and the <strong>SC10</strong> also usesthe GT2 nitro truck’s front caster blocks, which are 25 degrees and holdthe trail<strong>in</strong>g steer<strong>in</strong>g block via a steel k<strong>in</strong>gp<strong>in</strong>, which is held <strong>in</strong> place with areta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g screw. Reta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g screws also hold the pivot p<strong>in</strong>s <strong>in</strong> place <strong>in</strong> the<strong>in</strong>ner wishbone mount and the wishbones fitted brilliantly, dropp<strong>in</strong>g undertheir own weight without any modification at all. The front h<strong>in</strong>ge p<strong>in</strong> braceis plastic, but can be upgraded to an alum<strong>in</strong>ium version which I wouldrecommend, as it strengthens the front end and stops the bulkhead frombreak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the event of an impact.BUMP IT UP!The front shock mountsare really tall, and aretopped off by a ‘crossbrace’to mount thebodyshell. In front of theshock mount is the frontbumper assembly, whichtotally overpowers the front endand it’s at this po<strong>in</strong>t you reallyget a feel for how large this kitis go<strong>in</strong>g to be. The bumpers aremade of a really soft plastic to helpabsorbthose moments when you are ‘rubb<strong>in</strong>g’ with the other <strong>SC10</strong>’s on thetrack! Be<strong>in</strong>g soft plastic it makes them really easy to build and gett<strong>in</strong>g thescrews <strong>in</strong>to them was a piece of cake. Support<strong>in</strong>g the front bumper is apretty large kicked up skid plate, so the <strong>SC10</strong> looks like it will take someextreme angles when land<strong>in</strong>g off of big jumps. The same plastic usedon the bumper is used for the ‘nerf bars’ that attach to the side of thechassis, which help support the sides of the bodyshell.GEARBOXSurpris<strong>in</strong>gly for an electric truck the <strong>SC10</strong> uses a nitro style geareddiff, while the ball diff from the B4 is an optional extra. The diffsconta<strong>in</strong> two large sun gears and four smaller planetary gears.There are four shims, two for outside the diff that fit over thediff out drive and two that fit <strong>in</strong>side to space the gears correctly.After build<strong>in</strong>g the diff, I found it to be very notchy and generallyfeel<strong>in</strong>g a bit rough. I re-built it 3-4 times and it still had the samefeel<strong>in</strong>g. I decided to do some research and found out that the diffs have<strong>in</strong>deed been a problem on some models and need two extra shims to helpspace the gears properly. <strong>CML</strong> have reassured us that future kits will<strong>in</strong>clude the shims and that they will provideshims for anyone if problemsoccur, assur<strong>in</strong>g us that this isnot someth<strong>in</strong>g that hashappened to all kitsand lots have gonetrouble free.Above: The extended <strong>SC10</strong> chassis looks familiar, but islonger than the B4 and T4 it is based onThe rest of the gearbox is a work of art, prov<strong>in</strong>g through many yearsof top level competition to be a robust unit that you can just build andleave, it is just so reliable. To top the transmission off there is the slipperclutch to save the gearbox from the punishment of a rough track andlarge throttle <strong>in</strong>puts. The <strong>in</strong>structions give you a very clear tip on how toset the slipper up, and I found this to be spot on to start with. Included aretwo spur gears, an 87t spur for modified and brushed and a 75t, which isrecommended for brushless stock motors.Left: Familiar steer<strong>in</strong>gand front end, but nowswamped by that bumper!10/09 WWW.RADIORACECAR.COM 59


<strong>Associated</strong> <strong>SC10</strong> Kit, 1/10th 2WD Short CourseAbove: Adjustable slipper clutch and two spur gears suppliedSHOCKSThe blue alloy shocks use preload spacer clips to alter the rideheight, and filled with 30wt oil they are another trademark <strong>Associated</strong>component that provide great performance with m<strong>in</strong>imal ma<strong>in</strong>tenance.They go together very well and <strong>Associated</strong> provide a very useful toolto help fit all of the washers and O-r<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong>to the bottom of the shockbodies. Make sure you don’t lose any of the e-clips though as <strong>Associated</strong>only provide the correct amount needed to complete the kit. One th<strong>in</strong>g Idid f<strong>in</strong>d difficult to assemble on the shocks were the ball jo<strong>in</strong>t/eyelet onthe bottom of the shock shaft, so it may be worth pre-thread<strong>in</strong>g the balljo<strong>in</strong>ts with an M3 bolt before you assemble them onto the shock shafts.REAR SUSPENSIONAga<strong>in</strong> the rear suspension, like the front, has extra long wishbones fromthe T4 along with dog bone driveshafts. The rear hubs are taken from theB4 and are ball raced just like the ma<strong>in</strong> transmission and front wheels. Inthe <strong>in</strong>structions for the turnbuckle construction, it recommends that youset the turnbuckle at 71 mm from ball-cup to ball-cup but this gave therear wheel a ridiculous amount of camber and I ended up sett<strong>in</strong>g it to 85mm which looked OK until I put the bodyshell on, when it was obvious thatit needed even more length, so this will be adjusted when the truck is fullyAbove: Despite the extrabumpers and body mounts,there are just three extrascrews to remove, to get at thegearbox for ma<strong>in</strong>tenanceAbove: Gearbox conta<strong>in</strong>s the world renowned ‘Stealth’ gearboxAbove: The rubber mudflaps,possibly the coolest part on an R/C car…evercomplete. All of the rear suspension parts (<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the gearbox) attachto the lower rear chassis plate and brace.The rear shock tower is another tried and trusted component from theT4 truck, but <strong>in</strong>stead of the rear body mounts fix<strong>in</strong>g directly, it now hasanother huge bumper and brace which totally dom<strong>in</strong>ates the whole rearend. At first I thought that it would be a nightmare to access the reardrive-tra<strong>in</strong> because of this large assembly, but I tried it out when I hadto get to the diff to fit the extra shims andI’m pleased to say that it only requires theremoval of three more screws than normal,amaz<strong>in</strong>g! The rear bumper has one ofthe coolest parts I’ve seen <strong>in</strong> an R/C kitfor years…the rear mudflaps! I’m easilypleased, sure, but they do look very muchthe part. They are the same rubber itemsfound on the SC8 version, but don’t look outof place at all, and just add that extra bitof realism to this kit.WHEELY GOODWhen I first saw these trucks I thought thatone of the good th<strong>in</strong>gs about them was thehigh profile tyres for a good sense of realism. While theouter profile of the tyre is <strong>in</strong>deed high, the <strong>in</strong>ner profile ismuch more like a normal buggy tyre and is quite low profileto reduce tyre squirm and improve the drivability. Other thanthat, they do look good from the outside although the silverf<strong>in</strong>ish might end up with a coat of black pa<strong>in</strong>t like most of the realSC trucks. The tyres are a ‘block’ pattern suited to loose dirt andf<strong>in</strong>e gravel, which is where these trucks really belong.60 WWW.RADIORACECAR.COM 10/09


Electric Truckrrci featureAbove: On the loose, the scaledriv<strong>in</strong>g experience of 2WD reallygrabs your attentionSHELL TIMEAt first I thought it was a shell for an SC8, it is that big! Ittook me ages to th<strong>in</strong>k what to do with the shell design, somuch so, that I’d f<strong>in</strong>ished the build before I settled onan idea for the shell design! It was a case of whether togo ‘custom’ or ‘scale’. After many nights of research Idecided to go with a scale look, as custom flames andbl<strong>in</strong>g just didn’t look right. These trucks are made tolook like the real th<strong>in</strong>g, so it’s only right that they shouldlook the way they should. There will be pre-pa<strong>in</strong>tedshells on the way for the <strong>SC10</strong> <strong>in</strong> the future for you togive it that scale look if you don’t have the skills topa<strong>in</strong>t it yourself. I decided to pa<strong>in</strong>t it <strong>in</strong> the Radio RaceCar scheme. It’s only simple colours (apart from theairbrushed <strong>RRCi</strong> logo), but I th<strong>in</strong>k it looks absolutelyspot on, and wouldn’t look out of place on a full sizeCORR grid.ELECTRIC…ORANGE?<strong>CML</strong> k<strong>in</strong>dly provided the grunt for the <strong>SC10</strong> <strong>in</strong> theform of the new Novak Havoc 3s speed controller,and the Novak ‘Ballistic’ 8.5 brushless motor.The Havoc might not be the smallest speedcontroller around, but it really packs a top-notchspecification. It has a one touch set-up for endpo<strong>in</strong>t sett<strong>in</strong>g which is easy to use, as well asmany set-up modes <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g m<strong>in</strong>imum brake,drag brake, dead band, m<strong>in</strong>imum drive, throttlecurve, brake frequency, reverse disable, motorrotation direction, and a safety low voltagecut off to suit LiPo. In typical Novak fashion allthese parameters are easily identified by different colouredflash<strong>in</strong>g or static lights, and anyone familiar with thepopular Novak range will f<strong>in</strong>d their way around the menus<strong>in</strong> familiar fashion. The fan on top is removable althoughI would recommend leav<strong>in</strong>g it fitted, as these th<strong>in</strong>gs canget rather warm. The Havoc 3s only has an 8.5 motorlimit so is ideal for the <strong>SC10</strong> and the 2WD style of rac<strong>in</strong>g.The Novak Ballistic brushless motor is fully rebuildable,as every part of the motor can be stripped forma<strong>in</strong>tenance, and a unique feature is the stator unitencas<strong>in</strong>g the wire sections can be changed from 8.5 upto a 3.5 turn unit without hav<strong>in</strong>g to buy a whole motor.The motor comes complete with the sensor wire, whichplugs <strong>in</strong>to the socket on the tim<strong>in</strong>g assembly, exit<strong>in</strong>gthe motor at 90 degrees so the wires don’t have tobe folded at a right angle. The motor tim<strong>in</strong>g is alsoadjustable by twist<strong>in</strong>g the tim<strong>in</strong>g assembly and theposition is easily noted with the label on the end ofthe motor.FIRST RUNFor its first run I took my completed <strong>SC10</strong> to theMid-East Regional at Broxtowe. I got permissionto run it between the qualify<strong>in</strong>g and f<strong>in</strong>als whenthe track was closed. First some slow runs toget some nice pictures, then it was time forsome fun!With a queue form<strong>in</strong>g of people want<strong>in</strong>g tohave a go with the <strong>SC10</strong> it soon turned froma pleasant ‘blast around’ to see how the truckMiddle: Blue alloy shocks keep the <strong>SC10</strong> <strong>in</strong> checkBelow: The unique battery brace is simplicity <strong>in</strong> itself…Below: …With quarter turn ‘T-clamps’ they are quick and easy to use10/09 WWW.RADIORACECAR.COM 61


<strong>Associated</strong> <strong>SC10</strong> Kit, 1/10th 2WD Short Courseperforms, to a full-blown big air contest over the triple jumps! The w<strong>in</strong>nerof which ended up be<strong>in</strong>g Adam Skeld<strong>in</strong>g, gett<strong>in</strong>g the <strong>SC10</strong> to make allsorts of shapes <strong>in</strong> the air, and somehow manag<strong>in</strong>g to land it…even afterit was sideways and at a 90 degree angle to the ground! Even he wassurprised to see it clear the jumps and land on its wheels.After the fun it was time to get driv<strong>in</strong>g. Although it was a grass surfacethe <strong>SC10</strong> had a proper CORR look to it. It squats as you accelerateand the suspension really compressed through the turns. It did have atendency to grip roll on this high grip circuit, so maybe a slightly thickeroil <strong>in</strong> the rear shocks would help, though this isn’t its <strong>in</strong>tended rac<strong>in</strong>gsurface, preferr<strong>in</strong>g the loose of a proper shale or gravel track. The slipperclutch sett<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong> the manual were a bit light, aimed at a looser surfaceand less grip, so we ended up tighten<strong>in</strong>g it two full turns from the kitsett<strong>in</strong>gs for dirt/clay/gravel. It was nice to have to learn a new driv<strong>in</strong>gstyle to suit the <strong>SC10</strong>, and once you hit the power it just wants to snakearound wildly, so you have to feed the power on smoothly and not hit fulltilt until it’s <strong>in</strong> a straight l<strong>in</strong>e.CONCLUSIONIf you’re look<strong>in</strong>g for fun <strong>in</strong> the park with scale looks and strength built<strong>in</strong> then the <strong>SC10</strong> is for you. If you’re look<strong>in</strong>g at a serious racer that needsskill to drive but is cheap to run, then this is also for you. BUT! You needto get the word spread around. These trucks are great fun and couldbr<strong>in</strong>g lots of beg<strong>in</strong>ners <strong>in</strong>to our hobby…it just needs to be seen to beappreciated. Be<strong>in</strong>g the type of kit that it is, it can be raced at off road oron road tracks, <strong>in</strong>doors or out! So there’s no excuse for clubs not to runa class for these. It’ll be a shame if it doesn’t happen, as there are lots of<strong>SC10</strong>s around already. They just need a home to race.The <strong>SC10</strong> is VERY strong, as it took a huge amount of hammer dur<strong>in</strong>gthe jump contest, land<strong>in</strong>g on its sides, rear or nose, along with the oddland<strong>in</strong>g on its roof, and it is still <strong>in</strong> perfect condition. The ‘nerf bars’protect the shell brilliantly <strong>in</strong> side impacts and the shell still looks brandnew. Once the diff shims had been fitted the diff ran faultlessly and wehad no problems concern<strong>in</strong>g the gears stripp<strong>in</strong>g, so if yours doesn’thave the extra shims <strong>in</strong> the kit contact <strong>CML</strong>. One th<strong>in</strong>g I did f<strong>in</strong>d out wasthat the chassis is very exposed, when runn<strong>in</strong>g the <strong>SC10</strong> on a typicalloose surface at the local BMX track, it threw all sorts of rubbish <strong>in</strong>to thechassis and blocked the ESC fan with a small stone. Maybe a clear lexanbuggy body clipped over the chassis beneath the truck shell would helpkeep everyth<strong>in</strong>g clean.Most of all the <strong>SC10</strong> NEEDS a place to be raced. Although there are twoor three clubs already runn<strong>in</strong>g the <strong>SC10</strong>s, it needs clubs to form classesfor this type of rac<strong>in</strong>g and to keep it ‘stock’. It needs a simple set of ruleswith perhaps a motor limit though simply stipulat<strong>in</strong>g that only kit tyresmust be used will limit performance to make motor choice irrelevant.With a level play<strong>in</strong>g field like that, I th<strong>in</strong>k this truck could thrive! <strong>RRCi</strong>Above: Before I added the cool<strong>in</strong>gfan, the Novak ‘Havoc 3s’ has allthe usual family features and cannow handle 3s LiPo too!Left: The ‘Ballistic’ 8.5Novak motor was more thanfast enough for the <strong>SC10</strong>Above: The ‘Ballistic’ motor fully stripped downto reveal replaceable sensor and w<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>gsAbove: Electrics <strong>in</strong>stalled with plenty of room.Check out the side nerf rails and bumper set-up!62 WWW.RADIORACECAR.COM 10/09


Electric Truckrrci featureBelow: Hav<strong>in</strong>g a jump off at the regionalswas fun, and a queue quickly formed!QUICK SPECClass: 2WD 1/10th ElectricShort Course TruckType: Self-Assembly Chassis KitManufacturer: <strong>Associated</strong>Price: £179.99 RRPREQUIRED TO COMPLETESpeed control: Novak Havoc 3sRadio: Futaba 3CVS 2.4 GHzServo: KO PropoMotor: Novak Ballistic 8.5TBatteries: Reedy LiPo 5000 mAhCharger: Prolux Digi-charge 104disLikesNo <strong>in</strong>ternal chassis coverNeed places to raceLikesSimple designStrengthFun to driveAE Family DNA2WD Driv<strong>in</strong>g StyleCONTACTMore details from <strong>CML</strong> <strong>Distribution</strong>Telephone 01527 575349or visit www.cmldistribution.co.uk10/09 WWW.RADIORACECAR.COM 63

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