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Outerwear. - Business Location Switzerland

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<strong>Outerwear</strong>.<br />

Overview and Marketing Guide on <strong>Switzerland</strong> and the Major Markets in the European Union.<br />

sippo.ch


SIPPO Swiss Import Promotion Programme.<br />

2<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

SIPPO is a mandate from the State Secretariat for Economic<br />

Affairs of <strong>Switzerland</strong> (SECO), carried out by Osec.<br />

The programme supports small and medium-sized enterprises<br />

(SMEs) from emerging markets and markets in transition to access<br />

the Swiss and European markets.<br />

In addition to this, SIPPO helps Swiss and European importers<br />

to find suitable partners in emerging countries and countries in<br />

transition.<br />

The programme has five main goals:<br />

• To inform the Swiss and European import economy about new<br />

market sources<br />

• To strengthen trade institutions and business sector<br />

associations in the trade promotion process<br />

• To increase the competitiveness of SMEs in selected partner<br />

countries<br />

• To develop the manufacturing and exporting skills of SMEs in<br />

selected partner countries<br />

• To establish qualified trade contacts between SMEs from<br />

emerging markets and markets in transition and the Swiss and<br />

European import economy<br />

For further information please contact:<br />

Osec<br />

Swiss Import Promotion Programme<br />

Stampfenbachstrasse 85<br />

P.O. Box 2407<br />

CH-8021 Zürich<br />

Phone +41 44 365 51 51<br />

Fax +41 44 365 52 02<br />

www.sippo.ch<br />

sippo@osec.ch


The GHERZI Group (Founded in 1929).<br />

Gherzi is a leading industrial consulting company offering<br />

integrated, independent services in management, financial,<br />

manufacturing, supply chain management, logistics and<br />

engineering consultancy with more than 400 professionals.<br />

GHERZI has its head office in Zürich <strong>Switzerland</strong>, disposes on<br />

own offices in Germany, Italy, Turkey, Egypt and India and has<br />

developed an international presence with partner offices in<br />

France, UK, Mexico, Brazil, Peru, Chile, Argentina, Morocco,<br />

Nigeria, Pakistan, Vietnam and China.<br />

GHERZI has a reputation for project evaluation, planning and<br />

implementation with strengths in:<br />

1. Integrated Services.<br />

Provide a complete, integrated package from production to<br />

distribution, including marketing and feasibility studies with all cost<br />

and financial aspects.<br />

Our solutions are designed to meet clients’ specific needs such as<br />

Operations improvements in terms of<br />

• Productivity & efficiency levels<br />

• Cost reduction<br />

• Production planning & quality assurance<br />

• Organizing & working methods<br />

• Turn around of companies<br />

Techno - economic evaluations<br />

• Of investment projects and of existing business operations<br />

• Profitability, ROI & IRR<br />

• Financial projections & sensitivity analyses<br />

Project design<br />

• Master plans<br />

• Implementation<br />

• Re – engineering of existing businesses<br />

Mergers and Acquisitions<br />

Market analyses, competition scenarios and product feasibility<br />

studies<br />

Company Strategies<br />

Production Planning Systems & EDP<br />

Supply Chain Management<br />

2. International Exposure and<br />

Project Experience.<br />

We have undertaken more than 7’500 assignments worldwide<br />

in more than 70 countries. Our Clients include private & listed<br />

companies, international organizations, government agencies and<br />

multinational banks. We have accumulated comprehensive project<br />

experience in the fields of textiles, garments, industrial-, infrastructure-<br />

and hospitality-projects, supply chain management and<br />

distribution.<br />

3. Independent.<br />

GHERZI is an independent, private company offering neutral and<br />

unprejudiced consulting services without links to hard- or software<br />

suppliers. We act in the interest of our clients and meet the<br />

professional standards of the Swiss Association of Management<br />

Consultants (ASCO) and the Swiss Association of Engineers and<br />

Architects (SIA).<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 3


Table of content.<br />

1 Introduction.<br />

1.1 Background and methodology of the market survey ... 7<br />

1.2 Product groups analysed ............................................. 7<br />

1.3 Market survey of the 12-EU new member countries .... 8<br />

1.4 Clothing consumption .................................................. 9<br />

1.5 Marketing and distribution .......................................... 11<br />

2 France.<br />

2.1 General economic situation ....................................... 12<br />

2.2 The market for outerwear .......................................... 12<br />

2.2.1 Market size ................................................................ 12<br />

2.2.2 Market characteristics ................................................ 12<br />

2.2.3 Demographic characteristics ..................................... 13<br />

2.2.4 Retail sales by product category ............................... 14<br />

2.2.5 Consumer behaviour ................................................. 15<br />

2.2.6 Price development of clothing .................................... 15<br />

2.3 Imports ....................................................................... 16<br />

2.3.1 Total imports .............................................................. 16<br />

2.3.2 Outward processing trade (OPT) ............................... 19<br />

2.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear .................................. 19<br />

2.4 Trade structure ........................................................... 21<br />

2.4.1 Developments in the retail trade ................................ 21<br />

2.4.2 Leading retailers ........................................................ 21<br />

2.4.3 Distribution channels ................................................. 23<br />

2.5 French fashion trade fairs .......................................... 25<br />

2.6 List of major buyers of women’s,<br />

4<br />

men’s and children's wear in France .......................... 26<br />

3 Germany.<br />

3.1 General economic situation ....................................... 31<br />

3.2 The market for outerwear .......................................... 31<br />

3.2.1 Market size ................................................................ 31<br />

3.2.2 Market characteristics ................................................ 31<br />

3.2.3 Demographic characteristics ..................................... 32<br />

3.2.4 Retail sales by product category ............................... 33<br />

3.2.5 Consumer behaviour ................................................. 33<br />

3.2.6 Price developments of clothing .................................. 35<br />

3.3 Imports ....................................................................... 35<br />

3.3.1 Total imports .............................................................. 35<br />

3.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT) .............................. 38<br />

3.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear .................................. 38<br />

3.4 Trade structure ........................................................... 40<br />

3.4.1 Developments in the retail trade ................................ 40<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

3.4.2 Leading retailers ........................................................ 43<br />

3.4.3 Distribution channels ................................................. 44<br />

3.5 German fashion trade fairs ........................................ 46<br />

3.6 List of major buyers in Germany ................................ 47<br />

4 Italy.<br />

4.1 General economic situation ....................................... 53<br />

4.2 The market for outerwear .......................................... 53<br />

4.2.1 Market size ................................................................ 53<br />

4.2.2 Market characteristics ................................................ 53<br />

4.2.3 Demographic characteristics ..................................... 53<br />

4.2.4 Retail sales by product category ............................... 54<br />

4.2.5 Consumer behaviour ................................................. 55<br />

4.2.6 Price developments of clothing .................................. 57<br />

4.3 Imports ....................................................................... 57<br />

4.3.1 Total imports .............................................................. 57<br />

4.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT) .............................. 60<br />

4.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear .................................. 61<br />

4.4 Trade structure ........................................................... 62<br />

4.4.1 Developments in retail trade ...................................... 62<br />

4.4.2 Leading retailers ........................................................ 63<br />

4.4.3 Distribution channels ................................................. 64<br />

4.5 Italian fashion trade fairs ............................................ 66<br />

4.6 List of major buyers in Italy ........................................ 67<br />

5 Spain.<br />

5.1 General economic situation ....................................... 71<br />

5.2 The market for outerwear .......................................... 71<br />

5.2.1 Market size ................................................................ 71<br />

5.2.2 Market characteristics ................................................ 72<br />

5.2.3 Demographic characteristics ..................................... 72<br />

5.2.4 Retail sales by product category and gender ............ 73<br />

5.2.5 Consumer behaviour ................................................. 74<br />

5.2.6 Price development of clothing .................................... 74<br />

5.3 Imports ....................................................................... 75<br />

5.3.1 Total imports .............................................................. 75<br />

5.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT) .............................. 78<br />

5.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear .................................. 79<br />

5.4 Trade structure ........................................................... 80<br />

5.4.1 Developments in the retail trade ................................ 80<br />

5.4.2 Leading retailers ........................................................ 81<br />

5.4.3 Distribution channels ................................................. 83<br />

5.5 Spanish fashion trade fairs ........................................ 85<br />

5.6 List of major buyers in Spain ..................................... 86


6 <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />

6.1 General economic situation ....................................... 89<br />

6.2 The market for outerwear .......................................... 89<br />

6.2.1 Market size ................................................................ 89<br />

6.2.2 Market characteristics ................................................ 90<br />

6.2.3 Demographic characteristics ..................................... 90<br />

6.2.4 Retail sales by categories .......................................... 91<br />

6.2.5 Consumer behaviour ................................................. 93<br />

6.2.6 Price development of clothing .................................... 94<br />

6.3 Imports ....................................................................... 95<br />

6.3.1 Total imports .............................................................. 95<br />

6.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT) .............................. 95<br />

6.3.3 Largest suppliers ....................................................... 95<br />

6.4 Trade structure ........................................................... 96<br />

6.4.1 Developments in the retail trade ................................ 96<br />

6.4.2 Leading retailers ........................................................ 97<br />

6.4.3 Distribution channels ................................................. 98<br />

6.5 Swiss fashion trade fairs .......................................... 100<br />

6.6 List of major buyers in <strong>Switzerland</strong> .......................... 101<br />

7 United Kingdom.<br />

7.1 General economic situation ..................................... 107<br />

7.2 The market for outerwear ........................................ 107<br />

7.2.1 Market size .............................................................. 107<br />

7.2.2 Market characteristics .............................................. 107<br />

7.2.3 Demographic characteristics ................................... 108<br />

7.2.4 Retail sales by product category ............................. 108<br />

7.2.5 Consumer behaviour ............................................... 109<br />

7.2.6 Price development of clothing .................................. 111<br />

7.3 Imports ..................................................................... 214<br />

7.3.1 Outward Processing Trade (OPT) ............................ 214<br />

7.3.2 Largest suppliers of outerwear ................................ 214<br />

7.4 Trade structure ......................................................... 116<br />

7.4.1 Developments in the retail trade .............................. 116<br />

7.4.2 Leading retailers ...................................................... 117<br />

7.4.3 Distribution channels ............................................... 118<br />

7.5 UK fashion trade fairs .............................................. 121<br />

7.6 List of major buyers in UK ........................................ 122<br />

8 Doing business in <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />

and the EU.<br />

8.1 Market access.......................................................... 126<br />

8.1.1 Quality and standards in <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />

and the EU ............................................................... 126<br />

8.1.2 Packaging, size marking and labelling ..................... 126<br />

8.1.3 Trade related environmental and social issues ........ 135<br />

8.1.4 Present trade regulations......................................... 139<br />

8.1.5 Implications after the elimination<br />

of the textile quotas .................................................. 142<br />

9 Appendix.<br />

9.1 Associations of trade agents,<br />

wholesalers organisations and retail organisations<br />

in the countries analysed ......................................... 143<br />

9.1.1 Europe ..................................................................... 143<br />

9.1.2 France ...................................................................... 143<br />

9.1.3 Germany .................................................................. 143<br />

9.1.4 Italy .......................................................................... 144<br />

9.1.5 Spain ....................................................................... 144<br />

9.1.6 <strong>Switzerland</strong> .............................................................. 145<br />

9.1.7 United Kingdom ....................................................... 145<br />

9.2 Industry federations in <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />

and EU-countries ..................................................... 146<br />

9.2.1 France ...................................................................... 146<br />

9.2.2 Germany .................................................................. 146<br />

9.2.3 Italy .......................................................................... 146<br />

9.2.4 Spain ....................................................................... 146<br />

9.2.5 <strong>Switzerland</strong> .............................................................. 146<br />

9.2.6 United Kingdom ....................................................... 147<br />

9.3 Major European trade fairs ...................................... 148<br />

9.3.1 France ...................................................................... 148<br />

9.3.2 Germany .................................................................. 148<br />

9.3.3 Italy .......................................................................... 149<br />

9.3.4 Spain ....................................................................... 149<br />

9.3.5 United Kingdom ....................................................... 149<br />

9.4 European trade magazines...................................... 150<br />

9.4.1 France ...................................................................... 150<br />

9.4.2 Germany .................................................................. 150<br />

9.4.3 Italy .......................................................................... 151<br />

9.4.4 Spain ....................................................................... 152<br />

9.4.5 <strong>Switzerland</strong> .............................................................. 152<br />

9.4.6 United Kingdom ....................................................... 153<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 5


9.5 Trade promotion organisations in Europe ................ 155<br />

9.6 Important addresses for environmental<br />

6<br />

and social issues ..................................................... 155<br />

9.6.1 Contact points for the Oeko-ex 100 hallmark ........... 156<br />

9.7 Sources of information ............................................. 156<br />

9.7.1 Europe ..................................................................... 156<br />

9.7.2 France ...................................................................... 156<br />

9.7.3 Germany .................................................................. 156<br />

9.7.4 Italy .......................................................................... 157<br />

9.7.5 Spain ....................................................................... 157<br />

9.7.6 <strong>Switzerland</strong> .............................................................. 157<br />

9.7.7 United Kingdom ....................................................... 158<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010


1. Introduction.<br />

1.1 Background and methodology<br />

of the market survey.<br />

This survey is designed for clothing manufacturers from foreign<br />

countries wishing to access the European market. The main<br />

objective of this compendium about <strong>Switzerland</strong> and the five major<br />

EU clothing markets is to provide first hand market information<br />

about the respective target markets for the exporter from abroad.<br />

Secondly, a comprehensive list of addresses helps to gain more<br />

detailed information about the target market and to establish first<br />

contacts.<br />

The handbook includes facts and key data about consumption,<br />

imports, trade structure, role of trade fairs and price developments<br />

in the target markets. The study is completed by a detailed list<br />

of useful addresses at European level about trade promotion<br />

organisations, trade press, clothing fairs, industry federations,<br />

centres for ecological issues etc. as well as a detailed list of<br />

potential distribution partners for each of the six countries<br />

analysed. Furthermore, statistical market information about trade<br />

structure as well as prices and margins are provided.<br />

The countries selected for the survey are <strong>Switzerland</strong>, Germany,<br />

France, Italy, Great Britain and Spain. The information collected<br />

for this study is the latest available and should be used by the<br />

exporter as a basis for further individual market research to fully<br />

design the individual market entry strategy and to establish first<br />

contacts.<br />

The main sources of information for this study were evaluation<br />

of press material, research on internet, market reports, Eurostat,<br />

information from other trade promotion organisations, Chambers<br />

of Commerce, importers and / or textile associations, a.o.m. The<br />

sources are mentioned in the respective chapters. All contact<br />

addresses listed in the Appendices have been checked and<br />

updated, additional information about the clothing retailers and<br />

other potential partners with products, number of outlets, etc. is<br />

given for a more specific use of the contacts.<br />

1.2 Product groups analysed.<br />

This market survey covers knitted and woven outerwear and<br />

sportswear for men, women and children. It must be considered<br />

that in the official statistics no difference is made between adults<br />

and children, or in end use, such as conventional, casual or leisure<br />

clothing. In the analysis of the clothing imports, the differentiation<br />

between genders has been made as far as possible.<br />

Underwear, nightwear, hosiery, swimwear, work wear as well as<br />

clothing accessories and home textiles have not been covered.<br />

Within the EU statistical system products are specified by the<br />

Harmonized Commodity Description and Coding System (HS).<br />

These numbers clearly identify a specific product. The product<br />

categories covered by this study are listed in the following table.<br />

Table 1: List of used HS codes<br />

HS Code Category description<br />

61 Articles of apparel & clothing accessories<br />

- knitted or crocheted<br />

61.01 Men’s or boys’ overcoats etc - knitted or crocheted<br />

61.02 Women’s or girls’ overcoats etc<br />

- knitted or crocheted<br />

61.03 Men’s or boys’ suits, ensembles etc<br />

- knitted or crocheted<br />

61.04 Women’s or girls’ suits, ensembles etc<br />

- knitted or crocheted<br />

61.05 Men’s or boys’ shirts - knitted or crocheted<br />

61.06 Women’s or girls’ blouses - knitted or crocheted<br />

61.09 T-shirts, singlets, tank tops etc - knitted or crocheted<br />

61.10 Sweaters, pullovers, vests etc - knitted or crocheted<br />

61.11 Babies’ garments & accessories<br />

- knitted or crocheted<br />

61.12 Track suits, ski-suits & swimwear<br />

- knitted or crocheted<br />

61.13 Garments, knitted etc, coated etc rubber, plastic etc<br />

61.14 Other garments - knitted or crocheted<br />

61.16 Gloves, mittens and mitts, knitted or crocheted<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 7


8<br />

HS Code Category description<br />

61.17 Other made-up clothing accessories,<br />

knitted or crocheted<br />

62 Articles of apparel & clothing accessories - not<br />

knitted or crocheted<br />

61 Articles of apparel & clothing accessories<br />

- knitted or crocheted<br />

61.01 Men’s or boys’ overcoats etc - knitted or crocheted<br />

61.02 Women’s or girls’ overcoats etc - knitted or crocheted<br />

61.03 Men’s or boys’ suits, ensembles etc<br />

- knitted or crocheted<br />

61.04 Women’s or girls’ suits, ensembles etc<br />

- knitted or crocheted<br />

61.05 Men’s or boys’ shirts - knitted or crocheted<br />

61.06 Women’s or girls’ blouses - knitted or crocheted<br />

61.09 T-shirts, singlets, tank tops etc - knitted or crocheted<br />

61.10 Sweaters, pullovers, vests etc - knitted or crocheted<br />

61.11 Babies’ garments & accessories - knitted or crocheted<br />

61.12 Track suits, ski-suits & swimwear<br />

- knitted or crocheted<br />

61.13 Garments, knitted etc, coated etc rubber, plastic etc<br />

61.14 Other garments - knitted or crocheted<br />

61.16 Gloves, mittens and mitts, knitted or crocheted<br />

61.17 Other made-up clothing accessories,<br />

knitted or crocheted<br />

62 Articles of apparel & clothing accessories - not<br />

knitted or crocheted<br />

62.01 Men’s or boys’ overcoats, cloaks etc<br />

- not knitted or crocheted<br />

62.02 Women’s or girls’ overcoats etc - not knitted or<br />

crocheted<br />

62.03 Men’s or boys’ suits, ensembles etc<br />

- not knitted or crocheted<br />

62.04 Women’s or girls’ suits, ensembles etc<br />

- not knitted or crocheted<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

HS Code Category description<br />

62.06 Women’s or girls’ blouses - not knitted or crocheted<br />

62.09 Babies’ garments & accessories<br />

- not knitted or crocheted<br />

62.10 Garments, of felt etc, or fabric impregnated etc<br />

62.11 Track suits, ski-suits & swimwear<br />

- not knitted or crocheted<br />

62.14 Shawls, scarves, mufflers, mantillas,<br />

veils and the like<br />

62.15 Ties, bow ties and cravats<br />

62.16 Gloves, mittens and mitts<br />

62.17 Other made-up clothing accessories and parts of<br />

garments<br />

Source: Foreign Trade online<br />

A more detailed description of the product groups analysed can<br />

be taken from the import statistics in all countries analysed.<br />

<strong>Switzerland</strong> has a national coding system for the registration of<br />

imports and exports, which nevertheless is based on the HS code<br />

system of the European Union. Thus, the HS codes referred to in<br />

this study are also applicable for the Swiss market.<br />

1.3 Market survey of the 12-EU new member countries<br />

The European Union (EU), which had consisted of 15 member<br />

states since 1st of January 1995, was enlarged by ten new joining<br />

countries in 2004 (Czech Republic, Cyprus, Estonia, Hungry, Latvia,<br />

Lithuania, Malta, Poland, Slovakia, Slovenia) and two further new<br />

joining countries in 2007 (Bulgaria, Romania). Negotiations are in<br />

progress with a number of other candidate member states such as<br />

Croatia, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia and Turkey.


Table 2: Population and GDP of EU-12 countries (data for 2008)<br />

Countries<br />

Population<br />

million<br />

Age 0-14 % Age 15-64 % GDP € billion<br />

New (12) EU countries 104.2 15 70.5 977.7 9.38<br />

Cyprus 1.1 17.4 72.8 14.5 13.63<br />

Czech Republic 10.2 13.8 71.2 147.9 14.48<br />

Estonia 1.3 14.9 67.5 15.8 12.07<br />

Hungary 9.9 15.2 69.3 105.7 10.64<br />

Latvia 2.2 13.4 69.7 23.1 10.28<br />

Lithuania 3.6 14.5 69.5 32.4 9.07<br />

Malta 0.4 16.4 69.7 5.1 12.62<br />

Poland 38.1 15.2 71.4 360.1 9.35<br />

Slovakia 5.5 16.1 71.7 64.9 11.90<br />

Slovenia 2.0 13.6 70.1 37.3 18.59<br />

Bulgaria 7.3 13.8 68.6 34.1 4.70<br />

Romania 22.2 15.6 69.7 136.7 6.15<br />

Source: US Census Bureau, Worldbank, Oanda<br />

1.4 Clothing consumption<br />

The EU market for outerwear amounted to € 260 billion in 2007.<br />

Consumption of outerwear grew 8.1% during the whole period<br />

2003-2007, of which 2.6% in 2006-2007.<br />

Germany is still the most important country in clothing consumption<br />

in the EU, but the difference between Germany and the United<br />

Kingdom (UK) has become smaller again. Five countries (Germany,<br />

UK, Italy, France and Spain) account for 75% of EU outerwear<br />

consumption.<br />

GDP per capita 2008 ‘000<br />

Euro<br />

Consumers in the UK and Austria are the largest spenders on<br />

outerwear in the EU, while per capita consumption in the review<br />

period in the new EU member states was far below the EU average<br />

of € 528. Experts forecast that clothing expenditure in several<br />

of the new EU member states will continue to see robust growth in<br />

the period to 2010, while expectations in the major EU countries<br />

are moderately optimistic. The number of garments purchased<br />

per head of the population will continue to rise, but prices will not<br />

follow this growth rate. The populations are becoming more multiethnic<br />

and the average age is increasing. This will lead to new<br />

demands and consumer behaviour.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 9


Table 3: <strong>Outerwear</strong> consumption in the EU countries (2003-2009, € million)<br />

10<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

2003 2004 2007 2009 forecast Per capita 2007 - in € CAGR (03-09)<br />

Germany 50’548 49’915 50’863 51’100 618 0.18%<br />

UK 40’804 43’845 46’152 47’000 760 2.38%<br />

Italy 38’724 39’320 41’115 43’000 698 1.76%<br />

France 33’351 34’420 35’179 36’500 576 1.52%<br />

Spain 18’190 19’268 20’544 20’900 462 2.34%<br />

Netherlands 9’075 9’023 9’456 9’800 578 1.29%<br />

Belgium 6’712 6’972 7’219 7’450 683 1.75%<br />

Austria 5’846 5’918 6’132 6’240 737 1.09%<br />

Sweden 5’204 5’602 6’068 6’480 666 3.72%<br />

Greece 5’198 5’692 5’891 6’170 527 2.90%<br />

Poland 5’368 5’217 5’038 5’150 132 -0.69%<br />

Portugal 4’136 4’400 4’604 4’900 434 2.87%<br />

Denmark 3’039 3’408 3’694 3’950 678 4.47%<br />

Romania 2’572 2’922 3’210 3’500 149 5.27%<br />

Finland 2’382 2’668 2’992 3’140 567 4.71%<br />

Ireland 2’488 2’579 2’732 2’700 636 1.37%<br />

Czech Rep. 1’770 1’952 2’237 2’530 217 6.13%<br />

Hungary 1’488 1’629 1’738 1’840 173 3.60%<br />

Bulgaria 809 963 1’088 1’270 143 7.81%<br />

Slovakia 617 689 809 880 150 6.10%<br />

Slovenia 601 639 744 820 370 5.31%<br />

Lithuania 370 511 687 770 204 12.99%<br />

Latvia 233 324 515 580 226 16.42%<br />

Estonia 231 284 387 480 289 12.96%<br />

Luxembourg 320 329 353 370 728 2.45%<br />

Cyprus 301 331 344 360 402 3.03%<br />

Malta 149 156 165 170 406 2.22%<br />

EU 240’526 248’976 259’956 268’050 528 1.82%<br />

Source: Euromonitor, Retail Intelligence and several national statistics, CBI


1.5 Marketing and distribution<br />

Developments in the retail sector, like a growing concentration at<br />

retail level, expanding by internationalisation and growing competition,<br />

lead to an increased demand for fashionable products<br />

against low prices.<br />

• The EU market has witnessed the relentless growth of clothing<br />

multiple chains and franchised outlets, leading to the decline<br />

of the formerly strong independents’ sector. This trend will be<br />

continued in the coming years.<br />

• The hypermarket format, with its strong non-food component<br />

and international character, plays an increasingly important<br />

role in outerwear sales in Western as well as in Eastern EU<br />

countries.<br />

• The fast-changing demand in the clothing market is a<br />

significant factor. Because of the higher dynamics of the<br />

clothing markets in terms of more rapidly changing consumer<br />

preferences and more seasons per year, there is a general<br />

tendency in the clothing branch to demand shorter delivery<br />

times and smaller volumes of series and orders.<br />

• The role of importing wholesalers and importers remains<br />

relatively important but will slightly decline, while the role<br />

of clothing multiples and, to a lesser degree, buying groups or<br />

franchise formula will increase in the coming years.<br />

Parallel to the trend for suppliers to make their clothing abroad<br />

is a trend for retailers or wholesalers to bypass the local<br />

industry totally, by means of direct imports.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 11


2. France.<br />

2.1 General economic situation.<br />

The financial crisis did not spare the French economy, which faced<br />

a deep recession in 2009, even if the situation was less severe<br />

than elsewhere. After a clear drop in the fourth quarter of 2008,<br />

economic activity slightly grew in 2009. Both the timing and the<br />

strength of recovery remain uncertain, primarily because of the<br />

risks surrounding the balance sheets of financial institutions. While<br />

French banks have been weakened by the crisis, they are not as<br />

shaky as their counterparts in many other countries. Moreover,<br />

the risk that the real estate market correction now under way will<br />

accentuate the decline in economic activity is attenuated to some<br />

extent by the low rate of household indebtedness and the weakness<br />

of the wealth effect on consumption. The crisis will leave<br />

public finances in poor shape, and once the recovery begins, a<br />

priority will be to phase out the general government budget deficit.<br />

Given the already very heavy burden of taxes and compulsory<br />

contributions, public finance consolidation will require strict control<br />

over expenditures.<br />

According to INSEE, the French National Institute of Statistics<br />

and Economic Studies, the French Gross National Product (GNP)<br />

decreased in 2009 by -1.3%, in 2008 and 2007 in increased by<br />

2.1%. This was slightly over the average growth rate of the European<br />

Union. With 2.8% in 2009, the consumer price inflation rate<br />

was under the average rate of the European Union (3.5%). The<br />

unemployment rate declined from 10.1% in 2005 to 7.4% in 2009.<br />

This number is said to grow over 10% in 2010 due to the financial<br />

crisis.<br />

12<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

2.2 The market for outerwear.<br />

2.2.1 Market size<br />

In 2009, the market size of outerwear in France amounted to €<br />

24.1 billion, which is 62% of the total clothing market. The French<br />

clothing market is forecast to grow steadily between 2010 and<br />

2013 to reach a value of € 41.4 billion, of which up to € 26 billion<br />

will be outerwear. France, which accounts for 13% of the population<br />

of the 27-member EU, is the fourth largest clothing market<br />

behind Germany, Italy and the United Kingdom. Apparel imports, at<br />

€ 14.5 billion, are slightly higher than local production at €14 billion.<br />

The imports of outerwear increased by 25% in terms of value from<br />

2004 to 2009. In the same period local production decreased by<br />

-44%, of which goods amounting to € 5.3 billion were exported.<br />

Table 4: Size of the French outerwear market, 2009<br />

Import<br />

Value [€ bn]<br />

14.5<br />

Local production 4.3<br />

Export 5.3<br />

Total market size 24.1<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

2.2.2 Market characteristics<br />

French clothing, French design and French labels have a long tradi-<br />

tion and a good reputation. Clothing labels originating from France<br />

are internationally considered to be fashionable and of good quality.<br />

The internationalised French expression ‘haute couture’ signals the<br />

worldwide importance of French fashion and French clothing brands.<br />

Fashion is often associated with French fashion design.<br />

Compared to other EU countries, France is said to be dominated by<br />

price-conscious consumers. The reasons for this can be found in an<br />

unemployment rate of around 7.5% and a relatively low economic<br />

growth rate. On the other hand, the French are said to be very<br />

fashion-conscious too. However, spontaneous purchases are comparatively<br />

rare because of price sensitivity.<br />

There is a high share of independent retailers in France that are run<br />

as smaller boutiques all over the country.


However, the other extreme is also seen in the retail market: the so<br />

called ‘centrales d’achat’, huge supermarkets (Carrefour, E. Leclerc,<br />

Intermarché etc.) and clothing chains like Promod, Pimkie, Kookai<br />

etc., have strengthened their share in the French clothing market. In<br />

this scenario it is obvious that the French clothing retail system is very<br />

fragmented. France has the largest network of outlets and franchise<br />

systems operated by clothing manufacturers within Europe. Both<br />

systems, franchising and own outlets, merge with each other and<br />

cooperate very closely.<br />

2.2.3 Demographic characteristics<br />

The size and age structure of the population is one of the basic<br />

determinants of which products will be bought and how much will<br />

be spent on clothing.<br />

Figure 1: Age structure of the French population by gender, 2008<br />

10 0 +<br />

9 5 - 9 9<br />

9 0 - 9 4<br />

8 5 - 9 0<br />

8 0 - 8 5<br />

75 -79<br />

70 -74<br />

6 5 - 6 9<br />

6 0 - 6 4<br />

5 5 - 59<br />

50 - 5 4<br />

4 5 - 49<br />

4 0 - 4 4<br />

3 5 - 3 9<br />

3 0 - 3 4<br />

25 -29<br />

20 -24<br />

15 -19<br />

10 -14<br />

5 - 9<br />

0 - 4<br />

male female<br />

2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5<br />

Source: U.S. Census Bureau, International Data Base<br />

Population in millions<br />

France’s population has increased at a very slow rate in recent<br />

years. This has been a result of a low birth rate narrowly outstripping<br />

the declining death rate. Rates of immigration have also<br />

decreased in recent years, further slowing population growth.<br />

The 15-24 age segment of the female population tends to be<br />

made up of fashionable consumers, with a tendency to spend a lot<br />

of money on their clothing and personal adornment. These consumers<br />

are also likely to look for new styles and designs.<br />

With life expectancy among the French population increasing<br />

significantly over the past ten years, in addition to the effects of the<br />

‘baby boomer’ generation, the number of over-50s in the population<br />

has increased rapidly.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 13


The following figure shows a breakdown of outerwear expenditure<br />

by demographic segment in 2009.<br />

Figure 2: Breakdown of outerwear expenditure by demographic<br />

segment in 2009<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009 and Euromonitor 2009<br />

2.2.4 Retail sales by product category<br />

Table 5 gives a brief overview of the market share for the most<br />

relevant clothing segments, divided into men and women. Formerly,<br />

French consumers tended to buy more formal clothing than<br />

consumers in other European countries. This share has declined,<br />

to the advantage of basic leisurewear sales.<br />

Table 5: Market share of outerwear by gender, 2003 and 2007 [%]<br />

Women Men<br />

2003 2007 2003 2007<br />

Formal 36 32 41 37<br />

Casual 39 41 30 32<br />

Leisure 19 20 21 22<br />

Active sports 6 7 8 9<br />

Total 100 100 100 100<br />

Source: CBI<br />

Table 6 indicates the sales development of the women’s outerwear<br />

segment in € million of sales.<br />

14<br />

Women<br />

Men<br />

Children (aged 8-14)<br />

Babies (aged 0-7)<br />

53%<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

4%<br />

14%<br />

29%<br />

Table 6: Sales of women's wear by product categories, 2007 – 2008<br />

Sales in mn Euro<br />

per article category<br />

2007 2008 +/- from<br />

previous year<br />

Waterproof coats 758 741 -2%<br />

Anoraks, parkas, jackets 445 348 -22%<br />

Jackets & blazers 155 145 -6%<br />

Coats etc. 268 293 9%<br />

Gilets without sleeves 55 77 40%<br />

Suits, outfits 915 615 -33%<br />

Dresses 665 728 9%<br />

Skirts 741 568 -23%<br />

Trousers 1’546 1’532 -1%<br />

Trousers (sports) 46 38<br />

Jeans 1’007 1’084 8%<br />

Overalls 5 12 140%<br />

Shorts & bermudas 86 95 10%<br />

Skirts & smocks 28 24 -14%<br />

Blouses 527 544 3%<br />

T-Shirts 1’186 1’133 -4%<br />

Tops without sleeves 270 216 -20%<br />

Polos 135 111 -18%<br />

Bodies 7 17 143%<br />

Pullovers, waistcoats,<br />

cardigans<br />

270 257 -5%<br />

Sweatshirts 97 92 -5%<br />

Tracksuits 61 70 15%<br />

Swimsuits 236 231 -2%<br />

Unitards 58 56 -3%<br />

Sport shirts 56 48 -14%<br />

Other pieces of outerwear 0 69 n.a.<br />

Other small pieces<br />

of outerwear<br />

999 999 0<br />

Total 10’604 10’073 -5%<br />

Total pieces of outerwear 6’674 6’261 -6%<br />

Total small pieces<br />

of outerwear<br />

3’930 3’812 -3%<br />

Source: Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin<br />

The above table indicates the sales development of the women’s<br />

clothing segment in thousands of articles. Overall, an important<br />

decrease in sales can be observed between 2007 and 2008.


2.2.5 Consumer behaviour<br />

2.2.5.1 Consumer preferences<br />

As with the young generations in other European countries, French<br />

children like U.S. fashion styles and are influenced by American<br />

culture. Therefore, American brands and/or brands perceived to<br />

be American are particularly successful in the children's wear<br />

segment. The youngsters are also interested in sportswear, which<br />

is used also as everyday clothing. Sports like rugby, football and<br />

basketball are quite popular.<br />

The trends for ‘American’ styles strongly influenced by the ‘Hip- Hop<br />

Scene’ and the preferred sportswear are expressed in the sales<br />

of items like t-shirts, sweatshirts, polo-shirts in combination with<br />

baseball caps. Young consumers’ demand for sportswear helped<br />

the largest sports retailer Decathlon to increase its sales of<br />

children’s clothing in the last few years.<br />

As regards fabrics, there is a trend towards natural, easy to wear<br />

and modern fibres (jersey, cotton flannel, stretch, technical fabrics,<br />

polar fleeces). The children’s parents prefer clothing which is<br />

easy to wash and which requires no ironing. However, 70% of the<br />

clothing of 4 to 14 year old is selected by the children themselves<br />

and not by the parents. Children from six years up develop brand<br />

awareness, which is mainly formed by their peer group and TV<br />

advertising.<br />

Women’s wear follows the broad trend toward more casual and<br />

sporty garments. Several fashion forecasts announced that<br />

collections will be more feminine and will have less casual details.<br />

The younger men in France are more fashion-conscious, spending<br />

more on clothing in the last few years than before. The fact that<br />

casual wear is more common for the office is a particular trend<br />

which has grown in recent years.<br />

Children’s wear is more classic and formal for special occasions<br />

than in other EU countries, like The Netherlands and Germany.<br />

However, younger fashion brands have increased the last few<br />

years, and more and more have an adult look.<br />

Trends in consumption<br />

• In women’s wear, clothing is becoming more feminine. Luxury<br />

looking materials and colours are used to create a good feeling<br />

in answer to financial unstable times.<br />

• The increasing feminization of clothing products could drive<br />

trends for clothing accessories, also for the use of pearls and<br />

embroidery. Luxury appearance materials and colours are used<br />

to create a good feeling, in answer to financial instable times.<br />

Other forecasts are:<br />

A-symmetrical openings and several layers will become popular.<br />

Several lengths can be created in one garment or in a combi<br />

nation of several garments, like skirt with long tunic or blouse<br />

and short waistcoat or short jacket on a top.<br />

Accents on the waist by large belts or accents on the neck by<br />

wide scarves in accent colours.<br />

Skirts remain popular in all types and kind of lengths.<br />

• In general, there is much dynamism in consumer preferences<br />

at the moment. Cultural changes are succeeding each other<br />

rapidly. This makes predictions of consumer behaviour rather<br />

tricky.<br />

• Babies’ wear is still classical and hardly follows the trends of<br />

adult clothing. Newborn collections are mainly plain or have<br />

childlike decorations and are less influenced by the casual<br />

trends, as in adult fashion.<br />

• Materials, like cashmere and angora, are very expensive<br />

and delicate to treat, but in France where more luxury fashion<br />

is appreciated by women, this quality is and will become more<br />

popular.<br />

• For the coming winter-season (2010/11) the trend is warm<br />

colours in hairy woollen yarns such as mohair, angora or<br />

cashmere. This combination gives knitwear a voluminous look<br />

and warm feeling.<br />

• Tunics and long pullovers to wear like a dress combined with<br />

legging/trousers/tights will become more popular.<br />

• Catwalk reports announced an upcoming trend for winter<br />

2010/11: more accent on neck and shoulder, for example big<br />

collars or cowls.<br />

• Consumers become more aware of sustainability issues.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 15


2.2.5.2 Consumer expenditures<br />

Taking the total consumer expenditure on manufactured goods as<br />

reference value, the share of consumer expenditures on clothing<br />

has declined by 1.9% from 2004 to 2009.<br />

The development of consumer expenditure of manufactured goods<br />

increased in the same period by 13.9% and the expenditure on<br />

total clothing and total outerwear by less than 1%. This is certainly<br />

due to two different factors, which are a) falling clothing prices due<br />

to cheap imports and b) to shift of expenditure to electronic goods<br />

and leisure.<br />

Table 7: Development of consumer expenditure in France<br />

16<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

2004 2006 2008 2009*<br />

Manufactured goods [€ bn] 231.6 250.5 261.0 263.7<br />

Total clothing [€ bn] 38.7 39.8 40.6 39.0<br />

In % of manufactured goods 16.7% 15.9% 15.6% 14.8%<br />

Total outerwear [€ bn] 33.9 34.9 35.3 34.0<br />

In % of total consumption 87.7% 87.6% 87.0% 87.2%<br />

Source: Eurostat and Euromonitor – Note: *estimation<br />

According to Table 8, which considers the expenditures on outerwear<br />

by gender in France, consumption of women’s outerwear<br />

clothing was € 18.2 billion in 2009 and accounted for 53.5% of<br />

total clothing consumption.<br />

Table 8: Consumer expenditure on outerwear clothing<br />

2004 2006 2008 2009*<br />

Women [€ bn] 18.0 18.8 18.8 18.2<br />

Men [€ bn] 9.8 9.9 10.1 9.7<br />

Children<br />

(aged 3-14) [€ bn]<br />

6.1 6.2 6.4 6.1<br />

Total [€ bn] 33.9 34.9 35.3 34.0<br />

Source: Eurostat and Euromonitor – Note: *estimation<br />

2.2.6 Price development of clothing<br />

Prices of imports into France fell during the period 2006-2008, as<br />

table 9 indicates. Prices from DCs (Developing Countries), as well<br />

as from other EU countries fell during the period mentioned.<br />

In 2008, price movements reinforced the trend of increasing<br />

purchases of lower-priced outerwear from Asian manufacturers.<br />

Import prices from DCs were 61% of the level of intra-EU import<br />

prices, but they fell as from 2004.<br />

Table 9: Developments of average import prices per unit in France [€]<br />

Total<br />

imports<br />

2006 2007 2008 CAGR*<br />

4.89 4.82 4.74 -1.0%<br />

Intra-EU 6.39 6.23 6.16 -1.2%<br />

Developing<br />

countries<br />

3.79 3.76 3.73 -0.5%<br />

Source: Gherzi analysis based on CBI Note:* Compound Annual Growth Rate<br />

This data must be interpreted with care, as changes in imports do<br />

not reflect the demand in France.<br />

2.3 Imports.<br />

2.3.1 Total imports<br />

According to Eurostat, total imports of apparel into France amounted<br />

to € 13.1 billion in 2008. Since 1999, there has been a continuous<br />

increase in clothing imports. The share of imports of outerwear<br />

in total French clothing consumption is over 30%.<br />

Increasing imports are more than balancing the shrinking domestic<br />

outerwear production. A comparison of the following Table 10 and<br />

Table 11 shows that the proportion of men’s and women's wear<br />

imports into France are different for knitted and woven outerwear.<br />

While the imports of woven outerwear for men (€ 2.5 billion) and<br />

women (€ 3.5 billion) are at a similar level, the imports of knitted<br />

women' s wear (€ 0.9 billion) clearly over top the imports of knitted<br />

menswear (€ 0.4 billion). The imports of woven outerwear are,<br />

depending on the product category, five to nine times higher than<br />

the imports of knitted outerwear.<br />

According to Table 10, the imports of knitted outerwear into France<br />

increased steadily from 2006 to 2008. Active sportswear such as<br />

tracksuits, ski suits and swimwear is particularly worth mentioning.<br />

Woven outerwear for both genders is by far the largest sector with<br />

€ 7.2 billion in 2008.


Table 10: imports of knitted outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008<br />

For men or boys<br />

2006 2007 2008<br />

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />

Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.01) 1’442 33’622 1’630 34’265 1’636 31’359<br />

Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers,<br />

shorts etc. (61.03)<br />

1’331 88’256 1’686 92’406 1’395 76’811<br />

Shirts (61.05) 6’372 175’888 8’697 256’631 9’828 285’013<br />

Sub Total 9’145 297’765 12’012 383’301 12’859 393’183<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 8’045 118’297 11’115 160’301 12’181 180’412<br />

For women or girls<br />

Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.02) 2’956 84’701 2’181 76’668 1’912 81’899<br />

Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, dresses,<br />

skirts etc. (61.04)<br />

11’592 453’299 13’602 576’785 15’659 570’854<br />

Blouses and shirts (61.06) 4’443 190’839 6’512 265’987 7’812 283’737<br />

Sub Total 18’992 728’839 22’295 919’440 25’383 936’490<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 18’278 306’438 22’234 407’945 25’383 448’996<br />

For both genders<br />

T-shirts, singlets etc. (61.09) 60’245 1’580’733 61’031 1’615’262 54’764 1’465’754<br />

Jersey, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats,<br />

etc. (61.10)<br />

64’190 1’946’166 60’872 1’989’934 61’043 2’135’580<br />

Babies’ garments (61.11) 21’983 323’331 22’197 325’293 22’210 328’447<br />

Garments rubberised, impregnated,<br />

etc. (61.13)<br />

1’555 24’779 1’711 27’490 1’588 24’768<br />

Gloves, mittens and mitts (61.16) 6’326 120’928 6’768 119’140 8’003 141’282<br />

Other made-up clothing accessories (61.17) 3’735 74’194 3’630 76’235 3’951 76’063<br />

Sub Total 158’034 4’070’132 156’208 4’153’354 151’559 4’171’895<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 143’974 2’101’010 147’397 2’137’733 142’665 2’105’247<br />

Active Sportswear<br />

Track suits, ski suits and swimwear (61.12) 4’203 211’871 3’942 203’673 3’385 198’164<br />

Special garments for professional<br />

sporting or other purposes (61.14)<br />

6’046 142’545 5’539 132’021 6’071 127’166<br />

Sub Total 10’249 354’415 9’480 335’694 9’455 325’330<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 6’855 147’698 6’725 141’315 6’784 139’255<br />

TOTAL 196’419 5’451’152 199’996 5’791’789 199’257 5’826’897<br />

TOTAL EXTRA EU 177’152 2’673’443 187’471 2’847’294 187’013 2’873’909<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 17


In comparison to previous years, the share of the non-EU countries<br />

in the knitted outerwear imports is with 49% stable, while the<br />

overall trend in France is an increase in imports. The end of the<br />

MFA radically changed the French textile and clothing production<br />

landscape. An innumerable number of mills have been closed and<br />

many jobs have been lost.<br />

Table 11: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008<br />

2006 2007 2008<br />

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />

For men or boys<br />

Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.01) 12’377 352’898 10’880 346’659 11’287 370’994<br />

Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers,<br />

shorts, etc. (62.03)<br />

49’466 1’557’904 50’733 1’606’991 51’388 1’613’016<br />

Shirts (62.05) 13’827 491’092 14’806 521’555 14’635 533’004<br />

Sub Total 75’670 2’401’895 76’419 2’475’205 77’310 2’517’014<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

For women or girls<br />

72’844 1’164’986 76’043 1’219’641 77’298 1’232’880<br />

Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.02) 14’219 478’088 14’132 511’264 13’588 554’816<br />

Suits, jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers,<br />

etc (62.04)<br />

60’269 2’544’895 57’539 2’507’454 57’579 2’409’944<br />

Blouses and shirts (62.06) 7’067 421’858 6’797 455’432 7’969 530’464<br />

Sub Total 81’555 3’444’840 78’468 3’474’150 79’136 3’495’224<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

For both genders<br />

76’544 1’596’160 77’808 1’562’223 79’126 1’597’206<br />

Babies garments (62.09) 10’086 187’197 10’162 188’624 9’777 180’947<br />

Others incl. Impregnated (62.10) 29’558 360’977 28’799 327’161 29’464 315’592<br />

Shawls, scarves, mufflers, etc. (62.14) 2’350 115’410 1’842 112’583 2’530 128’206<br />

Ties, bow ties and cravats (62.15) 358 43’100 481 43’986 478 44’262<br />

Gloves, mittens and mitts (62.16) 1’346 36’189 994 27’729 894 26’888<br />

Other made-up clothing accessories<br />

(62.17)<br />

3’370 65’949 3’945 75’315 3’284 74’284<br />

Sub Total 47’068 808’823 46’222 775’398 46’426 770’178<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

Active Sportswear<br />

26’418 432’433 26’500 408’163 27’599 406’395<br />

Track suits, ski suits (62.11) 23’574 402’070 23’759 399’016 28’647 461’674<br />

Sub Total 23’574 402’070 23’759 399’016 28’647 461’674<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 15’325 206’800 16’111 217’938 19’124 253’924<br />

TOTAL 227’866 7’057’627 224’868 7’123’769 231’519 7’244’091<br />

TOTAL EXTRA EU 191’132 3’400’379 196’462 3’407’965 203’147 3’490’404<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

18<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

The import of the women’s woven segment increased from € 3.4<br />

billion in 2006 to € 3.5 billion in 2008. Woven suits for men (€ 1.6<br />

billion) and women (€2.4 billion) have the highest share of imports.


2.3.2 Outward processing trade (OPT)<br />

The analysis of the largest suppliers of OPT outerwear into France<br />

in Table 12 shows a downturn in OPT. Overall, the OPT business<br />

plays a minor role in France, accounting for only 0.66% of the total<br />

outerwear clothing imports.<br />

Tunisia is the most important OPT partner country for France.<br />

Morocco is second, as it was in the previous two years. Belarus<br />

is catching up to China and could become fourth in the coming<br />

years.<br />

Table 12: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008<br />

Position Country 2006<br />

[‘000 €]<br />

2.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear<br />

Table 13 gives a very good overview of the twenty major extra EU<br />

countries supplying clothing to France from 2006 to 2008. The<br />

share of clothing imports from extra EU countries in France was<br />

48.6% in 2006 and had slightly increased to 48.7% in 2008.<br />

The imports from outside the EU in 2008 amounted to € 6.4<br />

billion, whereas € 6.7 billion were imported from the European<br />

Union. While the total imports to France amounted to € 12.5 billion<br />

in 2006, they exceeded € 13.1 billion in 2008, an increase of<br />

4.8%. Overall, the growth rates of total imports increased by 3%<br />

and 1%, respectively. The main import countries for France from<br />

outside Europe are: China (€ 2.4 billion), Tunisia (€ 0.7 billion) and<br />

Morocco (€ 0.6 billion). Morocco and Tunisia are French speaking<br />

countries; this is a very important advantage for them when<br />

exporting to France.<br />

Change<br />

from 2006<br />

2007<br />

[‘000 €]<br />

Change<br />

from 2007<br />

2008<br />

[‘000 €]<br />

1 Tunisia 36599 -9% 33’480 -7% 31’249<br />

2 Morocco 36’294 -21% 28’694 -24% 21’859<br />

3 Ukraine 24’319 -10% 21’874 -27% 15’928<br />

4 China 6’842 55% 10’636 -22% 8’301<br />

5 Belarus 1’757 41% 2’486 106% 5’130<br />

6 Serbia 1’831 -12% 1’613 -17% 1’345<br />

7 Bosnia - Herzegovina 583 12% 653 17% 766<br />

8 Hong Kong 451 5% 474 52% 719<br />

9 Moldova 478 214% 1’500 -65% 529<br />

10 Lao (People’s Democratic Republic) 0 0 400<br />

11 Madagascar 840 -1% 835 -59% 340<br />

12 Vietnam 38 194% 111 160% 289<br />

13 India 339 270% 1’256 -81% 244<br />

14 Turkey 31 11% 35 422% 182<br />

15 Croatia 65 102% 131 -42% 76<br />

16 Egypt 17 -100% 0 35<br />

17 South Korea 0 0 19<br />

18 USA 0 0 15<br />

19 Thailand 44 -75% 11 -68% 3<br />

20 <strong>Switzerland</strong> 0 28 -100% 0<br />

Total 163’031 -36% 104’125 -16% 87’428<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 19


Table 13: Largest extra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008<br />

20<br />

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from<br />

2006<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

2007 [‘000 €] Change from<br />

2007<br />

2008 [‘000 €]<br />

1 China 1’706’835 21% 2’063’477 16% 2’403’807<br />

2 Tunisia 724’022 -2% 712’974 1% 716’682<br />

3 Morocco 673’775 -1% 667’699 -5% 632’342<br />

4 India 575’986 -2% 563’260 3% 579’893<br />

5 Bangladesh 506’696 0% 505’593 6% 538’135<br />

6 Turkey 473’249 -4% 456’431 -5% 432’976<br />

7 <strong>Switzerland</strong> 147’655 26% 186’272 3% 191’969<br />

8 Mauritius 141’210 -10% 127’783 -13% 110’726<br />

9 Madagascar 82’148 9% 89’489 -6% 84’430<br />

10 Thailand 160’357 -15% 135’684 -39% 82’628<br />

11 Pakistan 71’823 9% 78’482 0% 78’534<br />

12 Vietnam 83’922 -2% 82’205 -7% 76’574<br />

13 Indonesia 99’603 -15% 84’583 -18% 69’144<br />

14 Hong Kong 125’119 -33% 83’618 -54% 38’281<br />

15 South Korea 67’096 -36% 42’641 -21% 33’894<br />

16 Cambodia 33’740 -2% 33’020 -13% 28’743<br />

17 Malaysia 25’550 8% 27’592 -14% 23’682<br />

18 Macao 67’610 -23% 52’341 -62% 20’126<br />

19 USA 19’313 2% 19’660 -7% 18’336<br />

20 Sri Lanka 24’124 -23% 18’470 -1% 18’228<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

Extra-EU 27 6’073’822 3% 6’255’259 2% 6’364’314<br />

Intra-EU 27 6’434’957 4% 6’660’298 1% 6’706’674<br />

Total 12’508’779 3% 12’915’557 1% 13’070’988<br />

Typically, the French consider themselves to be rather weak<br />

in foreign language skills. Moreover, they are not very keen on<br />

speaking another language than French. This fact should be<br />

considered by foreign manufacturers wishing to sell in the French<br />

market. This fact also explains the leadership position of the<br />

relatively small EU country Belgium, which is characterised as<br />

a multilingual country, including the French language. Much<br />

business with Belgium is done on a subcontracting basis.


Table 14: Largest intra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008<br />

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €]<br />

Change from<br />

2006<br />

2007 [‘000 €]<br />

Change from<br />

2007<br />

2008 [‘000 €]<br />

1 Belgium 1’912’349 9% 2’078’537 0% 2’071’727<br />

2 Italy 1’221’326 7% 1’303’005 -1% 1’294’389<br />

3 Germany 908’896 2% 930’096 8% 1’003’780<br />

4 Spain 451’480 -2% 443’357 35% 598’331<br />

5 Netherlands 527’459 2% 538’405 -11% 480’377<br />

6 UK 310’152 4% 323’906 1% 327’259<br />

7 Portugal 284’717 5% 297’679 -4% 287’208<br />

8 Romania 289’010 -19% 235’203 -23% 182’195<br />

9 Luxembourg 32’180 -8% 29’705 0% 29’702<br />

10 Bulgaria 140’716 -19% 113’425 -14% 98’016<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

Intra-EU 27 5’933’106 4% 6’141’834 2% 6’266’298<br />

Extra-EU 27 6’073’822 3% 6’255’259 2% 6’364’314<br />

Total 12’508’779 3% 12’915’557 1% 13’070’988<br />

2.4 Trade structure.<br />

2.4.1 Developments in the retail trade<br />

It would be too simple to assume that price is the only area of<br />

competition in the French market. Quality, style and trend also play<br />

an important role.<br />

The clothing retail sector in France went through major changes<br />

over the last years. From the beginning of the 1980’s, consumers<br />

were used to independent shops that offered various brands. Apparel<br />

sold by independent retailers in France accounted for 39.1%<br />

of total sales in 1995. In 2008 only 20% were sold by independent<br />

retailers. Within the last years, the multiples also (as in other European<br />

countries) invaded France, and consumers are more likely to<br />

buy in speciality chain stores with large outlets.<br />

This development enhanced lower prices for outerwear through<br />

the greater competition and number of goods imported by these<br />

chains. These companies, of which most are French chains, have<br />

a very up-to-date concept with a high standard in logistics, IT<br />

and advertising. There seems to be a real competition on who is<br />

the next to open up a high-end logistics centre. The professional<br />

management system in the clothing sector has swept away small<br />

retailers. This development has been a concentrated process<br />

that has given the retailers more purchasing power against the<br />

manufacturers in comparison with the formerly fragmented small<br />

retailers.<br />

The multiples are now in the position to react more quickly to<br />

consumer demands by following a strategy of greater ‘just in time’<br />

supply to the shops and the consumers. The chains act like manufacturers<br />

in this respect. However, the link to the manufacturers has<br />

become closer. The importance of middlemen has been reduced<br />

and retailers buy directly from the clothing companies (abroad).<br />

The increased purchasing power of the retailers stimulated some<br />

clothing manufacturers to build up an independent distribution system<br />

by operating self-owned outlets or using a ‘franchise system’.<br />

2.4.2 Leading retailers<br />

In France, there are about 33'250 active clothing retail companies,<br />

which have 47'500 stores, of which an estimated two thirds are<br />

owned by independent retailers, which have fewer than 5 outlets.<br />

The big number of specialists chains indicates that the French<br />

market is less concentrated than, for instance, the UK market. Important<br />

French groups are Vivarte, Auchan/Mulliez, Etam, Groupe<br />

Beaumanoir and Promod. These groups are also active in many<br />

European countries.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 21


Table 15: Major specialised clothing chains of French origin in France, 2008-2009<br />

22<br />

Clothing retail chain Parent company Website Number of outlets<br />

General<br />

Kiabi Association Mulliez www.kiabi.com 160<br />

La Halle aux Vêtements Vivarte www.lahalle.com 345 (463)<br />

Vêtimarché ITM Intermarché www.vetimarche.com 154<br />

Eurodif<br />

Men and women<br />

Eurodif UOCR www.eurodif.com 74<br />

Armand Thierry<br />

Women’s wear<br />

Ecce www.armandthiery.fr 279<br />

Promod Promod www.promod.eu 271 (783)<br />

Camaïeu Femme Cime-Camaïeu www.camaieu.fr 504<br />

Etam Etam Developpemt www.etam.com 718 (3’300)<br />

Pimkie Association Mulliez www.pimkie.fr 270 (655)<br />

Mim New Look (UK) www.mim.fr 278<br />

Caroll Vivarte www.caroll.com 350 (2’350)<br />

Cache Cache Groupe Beaumanoir www.cachecache.fr 541<br />

Patrice Bréal Groupe Beaumanoir www.patricebreal.fr 239<br />

Scottage<br />

Men<br />

Groupe Beaumanoir www.scottage.fr 89<br />

Brice Brice www.brice.fr 204 (220)<br />

Jules<br />

Children<br />

Association Mulliez www.jules.fr 238<br />

Jacadi Id Group www.jacadi.fr 109 (250)<br />

Okaidi / Obaidi<br />

Sports<br />

Id Group www.idgroup.com 560<br />

Décathlon Association Mulliez www.decathlon.com 235 (475)<br />

Intersport Intersport Group www.intersport.com 522 (4’885)<br />

Sport2000 Groupe Sport 2000 www.sport2000.fr 600 (2’446)<br />

Source: CBI - Note: Numbers in brackets including outlets abroad<br />

Only three out of the top ten general clothing specialists in France<br />

are companies from abroad - C&A (from Germany; 119 stores),<br />

H&M (from Sweden; 133 stores) and Inditex from Spain (231<br />

stores in France, of which 115 Zara stores). Other foreign retail<br />

companies, active in France, are other formula of Inditex (mainly<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Bershka), Cortefiel; Mango (also from Spain; 107 stores); Benetton<br />

(from Italy; 91 stores); M&S Mode (from The Netherlands; 150<br />

stores), Esprit (from Germany/Hong Kong; 640 stores) and Gap<br />

(from the USA; 17 stores).


2.4.3 Distribution channels<br />

Table 16 gives an overview on sales made by different clothing retail<br />

channels in 2004 to 2008. Compared to previous years, sales<br />

in independent clothing shops are decreasing. They once used to<br />

be the most important location for the French to buy their clothing.<br />

Now they are (at 20%) behind the multiples that have a share of<br />

37%. The trend towards more concentration is also reflected by<br />

the relatively high share of super- and hypermarkets (11%). Home<br />

shopping companies took some 9% of sales value in 2008.<br />

Table 16: Market shares of retail distribution of clothing in France,<br />

2004 – 2008 [% of value]<br />

Market Shares<br />

of retail distribution<br />

2004 2006 2008<br />

Specialists 59 58 57<br />

Independent retailers 21 21 20<br />

Clothing multiples 38 37 37<br />

Non-specialists 41 42 43<br />

Department and variety stores 7 8 9<br />

Hyper- and supermarkets 12 12 11<br />

Home shopping companies 8 8 9<br />

Sports shops and other chains 7 8 9<br />

Other channels 7 6 5<br />

Total 100 100 100<br />

Source: Journal de Textile (2009) and UFIH (2009)<br />

Factory Outlet Centres have also gained importance, in 2008 there<br />

were 21 of them spread around the country with an total area of<br />

280'000m2 and a total turnover of € 0.8 billion.<br />

2.4.3.1 Retailers<br />

2.4.3.1.1 Independent retailers<br />

The share of independent retailers decreased from 28% in 1995<br />

to 20% in 2008. Independent retailers are defined as retailers with<br />

less than five ‘active’ outlets. There are around 33'250 independent<br />

outlets in France. Their buying is sometimes linked to franchise<br />

organisations. Although the share of independent specialised<br />

retailers is generally decreasing, it is still much higher than in other<br />

countries. Figures indicate that the strong decline came to a stop<br />

in 2004, when there was an upward trend.<br />

Market share: 20% in 2008, Trend: Decreasing<br />

2.4.3.1.2 Clothing multiples<br />

The long-term trend clearly indicates a higher importance of<br />

clothing multiples and more concentration of the market (Journal<br />

de Textile). Generally, the French market is still less concentrated<br />

in the retail sector than in other European countries. However,<br />

this is expected to change. The outlets for children's wear are<br />

numerous. There are three times more outlets of clothing multiples<br />

for women than for men. The largest player in the retail business<br />

is the Groupe Vivarte (formerly Groupe André). Groupe Vivarte<br />

owns the clothing chains Caroll, Kookaï, Creeks, Liberto and La<br />

Halle aux Vêtements. Shoe shop chains called André, San Marina,<br />

Orcade-Minelli, La Halle aux Chaussures and Chaussland et<br />

Besson also belong to Groupe Vivarte. In November 2001, Groupe<br />

André was renamed Groupe Vivarte.<br />

Market share: 37% in 2008, Trend: Stable<br />

2.4.3.1.3 Department and variety stores<br />

The main department store in France is Les Galeries Lafayette,<br />

which also operates under the name Nouvelles Galeries. Another<br />

department store of importance in France is PPR (Pinault-<br />

Printemps-Redoute). Variety stores include Prisunec, Monoprix<br />

and Inno, which belong to Galeries Lafayette. The importance<br />

of department stores has stabilised over the last few years after<br />

decreases in the last decade.<br />

Market share: 9 % in 2008, Trend: Increasing<br />

2.4.3.1.4 Hyper- and supermarkets<br />

The grocery super- and hypermarkets offer comparatively more<br />

men's wear. The supermarkets and hypermarkets that have a<br />

higher share in the menswear segment have done better for<br />

major items, but are reported to have problems with small items,<br />

although socks and underwear constitute their main clothing<br />

business. A trend can be noted away from cheap products to<br />

fashionable clothing offering better quality.<br />

Market share: 11% in 2008, Trend: Slightly decreasing<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 23


2.4.3.1.5 Home shopping companies<br />

The mail-order business in France slightly increased during the<br />

past 3 years but still remains under 10%. Among the mail-order<br />

houses, La Redoute and 3 Suisses must be mentioned. La<br />

Redoute is owned by PPR, and 3 Suisses belongs to the Groupe<br />

3 Suisses International, which also carries the mail-order business<br />

Blanche Porte. Home shopping companies are said to have<br />

aggressive sales policies and heavy promotion. In the longer run,<br />

however, the mail-order business is expected to grow, since more<br />

and more French consumers have Internet access at home. It<br />

is only a matter of time until the French return to buying certain<br />

products from the home shopping companies.<br />

Market share: 9 % in 2008, Trend: slightly increasing<br />

2.4.3.1.6 Sports shops and other chains<br />

There are four relevant sports shops in France; Decathlon, Go<br />

Sports, Sport 2000 and Intersport. Sportswear is often used by<br />

the French youth and mixed with other styles.<br />

Market share: 9% in 2008, Trend: Increasing<br />

2.4.3.1.7 Other channels<br />

The share of other distribution channels is decreasing. Other<br />

channels are those that do not fall into the definition of the above<br />

mentioned channels. Examples of such distribution channels<br />

would be markets, fairs, and factory outlets.<br />

Market share: 5% in 2008, Trend: Decreasing<br />

2.4.3.2 Sales intermediaries<br />

2.4.3.2.1 Clothing manufacturers<br />

French manufacturers have slid against the retailers and their<br />

position has weakened in recent years. This is also confirmed by<br />

the fact that there are fewer ‘manufacturer’s brands’, because they<br />

are partially being replaced by the ‘retailer’s brands’. The industry<br />

is characterised by high price pressure: on the one hand, consumers<br />

have become more price conscious; on the other, imports of<br />

cheap garments from abroad lower the prices. Manufacturers have<br />

no chance but to follow the retailers. French manufacturers often<br />

produce their core product range on their own, but they also buy<br />

a considerable share of their product assortment from manufacturers<br />

abroad. Apparently, they do so in order to add certain products<br />

to complete their collection. Opportunities exist for exporters<br />

who are interested in forming relationships or partnerships with<br />

French producers.<br />

24<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

The clothing manufacturer has to rely on the distributors’ promotion<br />

and advertising for their respective collection. This can cause<br />

problems, for instance when brand names are promoted inadequately.<br />

This can only be avoided by the installation of a costly<br />

own retail system by the manufacturer. Because of the strong<br />

position of the retailers, some French clothing brands are ready to<br />

accept these greater financial investments.<br />

Establishing their own retail chain allows them to adapt more<br />

quickly to evolving market trends and have more influence on the<br />

distribution. The sales personnel can be trained according to the<br />

marketing strategy as well as the product’s image. In any case, it is<br />

recommendable not to neglect other local apparel manufacturers<br />

when building up an own retail system.<br />

2.4.3.2.2 Central buying associations<br />

There are not many important buying organisations for independent<br />

retailers in France, as they are mainly provided by the French clothing<br />

manufacturers and the wholesalers and importers. For the most part,<br />

meaningful buying associations can be found in the sportswear segment,<br />

for instance Intersport, Go Sport and Sport 2000.<br />

2.4.3.2.3 Sales Agents<br />

A sales agent based in France normally takes a commission of 10-<br />

15% if the manufacturer is from overseas (slightly higher commission<br />

because of higher risks). The sales commission within France<br />

or Europe is normally below 10%.<br />

Clothing exports into the French market via a sales agent are very<br />

common. Especially in the case of France, it is recommended<br />

for foreign manufacturers EU to work with agents as the buying<br />

of clothing is very much concentrated on the so called ‘centrales<br />

d’achats’. The buying managers often import through sales agents<br />

based in France who represent reliable manufacturers from abroad.<br />

2.4.3.2.4 Importers/wholesalers<br />

Some French retailers (mainly super- and hypermarkets, textile<br />

discounters and to some extent clothing chains) prefer not to run<br />

own control and sourcing units in overseas markets. These retailers<br />

buy their products via importers/wholesalers and often get<br />

attractive conditions. Since the end of the eighties, the importers<br />

have gained importance as the previously very strong national<br />

French clothing industry became less competitive due to increasing<br />

production costs. As a result, many importers/wholesalers<br />

enjoy increasing orders and revenues.


2.5 French fashion trade fairs.<br />

Table 17: French fashion trade fairs 2010<br />

Trade fair Date <strong>Location</strong><br />

Salon international de la lingerie 23. - 25.01.2010 Paris<br />

Who’s next (general clothing) 23. - 26.01.2010 Paris<br />

Prêt-à-Porter (women’s wear) 23. - 26.01.2010 Paris<br />

Communiquez Textile (general clothing, textiles) 02. - 04.02.2010 Lyon<br />

Rendez-Vouz Femme (Paris Fashion Week) 05. - 08.03.2010 Paris<br />

TRANSITION (fashion and accessories) 13. - 15.04.2010 Paris<br />

Interselection (general clothing) 13. - 15.04.2010 Paris<br />

Prêt-à-Porter (women’s wear) 04. - 07.09.2010 Paris<br />

Mode city (lingerie and swim wear) 04. - 06.09.2010 Paris<br />

TRANSITION (fashion and accessories) 19. - 21.10.2010 Paris<br />

FATEX (The fashion sourcing trade fair) 19. - 21.10.2010 Paris<br />

Interselection (general clothing) 19. - 21.10.2010 Paris<br />

Who’s next (general clothing) 19. - 21.10.2010 Paris<br />

Rendez-Vouz Femme (Paris Fashion Week) October 2010 Paris<br />

Source: Gherzi research, AUMA<br />

The Prêt-à-Porter Trade Fair is an international women readyto-wear<br />

exhibition with a ‘boutique’ section. The collections are<br />

normally presented on the classical pre-order system, meaning<br />

half a year ahead of the actual sales in the shops. The<br />

winter collection is shown in March, the summer collection in<br />

September of the previous year. The fair has a certain importance<br />

at the European level, but it has the character of an image fair.<br />

Nevertheless, it is the French trade fair that attracts the most<br />

visitors.<br />

Who’s Next is less specialised according to gender. Exhibitions<br />

include men's wear, women's wear and children's wear. It is also<br />

held twice a year and has attracted more than 30,000 visitors in<br />

recent years.<br />

In the highly competitive European fashion world, French trade<br />

fairs are major opportunities for business and marketing on an<br />

international scale, although the Prêt-à-Porter has slipped against<br />

the Italian and German clothing trade fairs in recent years.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 25


2.6 List of major buyers in France.<br />

Clothing Chain Stores<br />

26<br />

CMC agnès b.<br />

17, rue de Dieu<br />

F - 75010 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4003 45 00<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 4003 45 50<br />

www.europe.agnesb.fr<br />

mailing@agnesb.fr<br />

Caroll International<br />

38, rue du Hameau<br />

F - 75740 Paris Cedex 15<br />

Tel.: +33 -0- 810 30 40 30<br />

Fax: +33 -01- 56 23 34 07<br />

contact@caroll.com or<br />

adenaes@caroll.com<br />

(Direction commerciale<br />

internationale)<br />

www.caroll.com<br />

Chattawak<br />

29, boulevard des Italiens<br />

F - 75002 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 - 44 94 80 60<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 42 66 93 92<br />

www.chattawak.fr<br />

courrier@chattawak.fr<br />

Brice<br />

152, avenue Alfred Motte<br />

F- 59100 ROUBAIX<br />

Tel.: +33 (0)3 20 99 36 36<br />

www.brice.fr<br />

contact@brice.fr<br />

Aubert France<br />

4, rue de la Ferme - BP<br />

30130<br />

F - 68705 Cernay<br />

aubert.contact@aubert.fr<br />

www.aubert.fr<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Product range: ladies’,<br />

men’s, childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

high price level<br />

Number of outlets: 229<br />

shops (38 in France)<br />

Product range:<br />

womenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid-price level<br />

Number of outlets: 350<br />

shops, of which more than<br />

100 abroad and 75 franchising<br />

partners + mail order<br />

Product range:<br />

ladies’, menswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid-price level<br />

Number of outlets: 125<br />

shops + 90 franchising<br />

partners<br />

Product range:<br />

menswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid-price level<br />

Number of outlets: 220<br />

Product range:<br />

babies’ wear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid-price level<br />

Number of outlets: more<br />

than 200 shops (in Europe)<br />

+ mail order<br />

Infinitif<br />

26, rue du Caire<br />

F - 75002 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 45 08 15 29<br />

www.infinitif.com<br />

info@infinitif.com<br />

Kookai<br />

45, avenue Victor Hugo<br />

93534 Saint Denis la Plaine<br />

Cedex<br />

Tel.: +33 – 399 292 994<br />

www.kookai.fr<br />

serviceclient.kookai@mixcommerce.com<br />

La Halle aux Vêtements<br />

26, rue de Flandres<br />

F - 75019 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 533 50 425<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 533 50 480<br />

contact@contact-lahalle.com<br />

www.lahalle.com<br />

Oliver Grant Diffusion<br />

74, rue Elysée Reclus<br />

F - 69150 Décibes Cedex<br />

Tel.: +33 – 472 – 81 25 60<br />

Fax: +33 – 472 – 81 25 61<br />

contact@olivergrant.com<br />

www.olivergrant.com<br />

Promod – Centrale d’Achat<br />

Chemin du Verseau<br />

F - 59847 Marcq en Baroeul<br />

Tel.: +33 – 3 – 204 57 551<br />

Fax: +33 – 3 – 204 57 454<br />

contact@promod.fr<br />

www.promod.fr<br />

Product range:<br />

womenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid- to high price level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

10 in F + 400 franchising<br />

partners<br />

Product range:<br />

womenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid-price level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

30 outlets + 120<br />

franchise partners + 320<br />

franchise partners abroad<br />

Note: belongs to the former<br />

André Group, Paris<br />

Product range: ladies’,<br />

men’s, childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

low to mid-price level<br />

Number of outlets: 480<br />

Note: belongs to the former<br />

André Group, Paris<br />

Product range:<br />

womenswear, menswear,<br />

sportswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid- to high pricelevel<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

32 shops,<br />

3 franchising Partners<br />

Product range:<br />

womenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

low price level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

203 shops in France


Clothing Chain Stores<br />

Tartine-Et-Chocolat.Com<br />

Bebeo Sa<br />

Parc des Docks de Saint-<br />

Ouen,<br />

Lot 567 - Portes B et C<br />

50, rue Ardoin<br />

F - 93400 ST OUEN 1 –<br />

4562339<br />

www.tartine-et-chocolat.com<br />

Tati Sa<br />

81, rue Cartier Bresson<br />

F - 93697 Pantin Cedex<br />

tati_contact@agora-distribution.com<br />

www.tati.fr<br />

Groupe Zannier<br />

Head Office<br />

6 bis, rue Gabriel Laumain<br />

F - 75010 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 44 83 45 45<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 44 83 45 30<br />

jfrousseau@groupezannier.fr<br />

www.groupezannier.fr<br />

Product range:<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid-price level<br />

Number of outlets: 3 shops,<br />

15 franchising partners<br />

Product range:<br />

all kinds of clothing<br />

Price segment:<br />

low price level<br />

Number of outlets: 60<br />

(of which 20 are for marrige<br />

clothing) and 2 (in Poland<br />

& Spain)<br />

Product range:<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid-price level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

270 outlets<br />

Note: own brands like Trios<br />

Pommes,<br />

Hawai – 60% of the clothing<br />

is sourced<br />

from outside<br />

Jeans- and Sportswear<br />

Chausport<br />

Belongs to Société Spodis<br />

96 rue du Pont Rompu<br />

F-5920 Chausport Tourcoing<br />

T: +33 -3- 59 36 02 86<br />

service-client@chausport.fr<br />

www.chausport.com<br />

Decathlon-Sport<br />

4, Boulevard de Mons<br />

F - 59650 Villeneuve d’Asqu<br />

Tel.: +33 – 3 – 203 350 00<br />

Fax: +33 – 3 – 203 350 01<br />

contact@decathlon.com<br />

www.decathlon.com<br />

Decouverte Vêtements<br />

Cloup Diffusion CD Textile<br />

28, rue Maillot<br />

F – 81100 Castres<br />

Tel.: +33 – 5 63 59 24 39<br />

Fax: +33 – 5 63 59 31 43<br />

cdtextile@aol.com<br />

www.creatives-decouverte.com<br />

ITM Entreprises S.A.<br />

24 rue Auguste Chadrieres<br />

F-65737 Paris Cedex 5<br />

Tel. : +33 - 1 45 33 74 17<br />

Fax : +33 - 1 45 33 39 13<br />

www.itmentreprises.fr<br />

Lasserre (modern cottage)<br />

20, chemin de Laporte<br />

F - 31300 Toulouse<br />

Tel.: +33 – 561 – 49 13 13<br />

Fax: +33 – 561 – 49 98 48<br />

enquiries@lasserre.co.uk<br />

NAF NAF SAS<br />

6-10, Boulevard Foch<br />

F - 93807 Epinay sur Seine<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4813 8888<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 4813 8850<br />

serviceclients@nafnaf.fr<br />

direction.internationale@<br />

nafnaf.fr<br />

dircom@nafnaf.fr<br />

www.nafnaf-sa.com<br />

Product range: Casual<br />

wear and active sportswear,<br />

sports articles<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid-price level<br />

Number of outlets: 81<br />

Product range:<br />

Casual wear and<br />

active sportswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid-price level<br />

Number of outlets: 220,<br />

belongs to Auchan<br />

Product range:<br />

Womenswear and<br />

sportswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid-price level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

10 + 45 franchise<br />

partners (Brands: Cache<br />

Cache, Caroll, Old River)<br />

Product range: all kinds of<br />

clothing incl. sportswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

lower price level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

163 shops ‘Vetimarché’<br />

Product range: sportswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid-price level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

40 + 35 franchise partners<br />

Product range:<br />

womenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid- to high price level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

142 in France<br />

(over 400 worldwide, in<br />

over 40 countries)<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 27


Department stores<br />

28<br />

Au Bon Marche (ABM)<br />

24, rue des Sèvres<br />

F – 75007 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 - 1 – 44 39 80 00<br />

Fax: +33 - 1 – 44 39 81 19<br />

www.lebonmarche.fr<br />

Galeries Lafayette<br />

40, Boulevard Haussmann<br />

F - 75009 Paris Cedex 07<br />

Tel.: +33 – 14 – 878 25 19<br />

Fax: +33 – 14 – 282 80 23<br />

www.galerieslafayette.fr<br />

www.groupegalerieslafayette.fr<br />

Nouvelles Galeries Réunis<br />

66, rue des Archives<br />

F - 75150 Paris Cedex<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 427 48 212<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 427 46 652<br />

Printemps<br />

102, rue des Provence<br />

F - 75009 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 42855000<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 42823600<br />

17 shops + related shops<br />

www.printemps.com<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Product range:<br />

all kinds of clothing<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid-price level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

approx. 150<br />

Note: textile share app.<br />

49% - 1’500 employees -<br />

mail-order business<br />

Product range:<br />

womenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

high price level<br />

Number of outlets: 130<br />

shops in France and more<br />

in other countries<br />

Product range:<br />

all kinds of clothing<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid-price level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

287 shops<br />

Note: belongs to Galeries<br />

Lafayette<br />

Group – textile share in<br />

assortment 25% - app.<br />

25’000 employees<br />

Product range:<br />

all kinds of clothing<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid-price level<br />

Number of outlets: 20<br />

Mail Order Companies (product range: generally all kinds of<br />

clothing, price segment: low to middle)<br />

Cyrillus (Redcats)<br />

Avenue Amsterdam<br />

F - 59910 Bondues<br />

Tel.: +33 – 3 – 209 9330<br />

Fax: +33 – 3 – 209 9332<br />

Products: ladies’, men’s,<br />

children’s wear, Mailorder +<br />

25 shops also in B, CH and<br />

www.cyrillus.fr<br />

La Blanche Porte<br />

22, rue de la Blanche<br />

F - 59200 Tourcoing<br />

Tel.: +33 – 3 – 20282028<br />

Fax: +33 – 3 – 20282029<br />

www.lablancheporte.fr<br />

Maison de Valerie<br />

ZI, rue Jacquart<br />

F - 41350 Vineuil<br />

Tel.: +33 – 2 – 54425254<br />

Fax: +33 – 2 – 54815053<br />

www.lamaisondevalerie.fr<br />

Trois Suisses International<br />

4, place de la République<br />

F - 59962 Croix<br />

Tel.: +33 – 3 – 20203062<br />

Fax: +33 – 3 – 20720406<br />

www.3suisses.fr<br />

www.3suissesinternational.com<br />

Good Life<br />

33, rue de l’Assomption<br />

F - 75016 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 45245650<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 45245599<br />

Products: ladies’, men’s<br />

wear Mailorder + retail<br />

www.goodlife.fr<br />

La Redoute a Roubaix<br />

S.A.<br />

(Redcats)<br />

57, rue Blanchemaille<br />

F - 59100 Roubaix<br />

Tel.: +33 – 3 – 206 96 000<br />

Fax: +33 – 3 – 202 40 337<br />

www.redcats.com<br />

Neckermann Sarl<br />

5, rue du Château<br />

d’Angleterre<br />

F - 67300 Schiltigheim<br />

Tel. +33 – 3 – 88191010<br />

Fax: +33 – 3 – 88191030<br />

Note: all kinds of clothing<br />

– 260 employees – textile<br />

share 75%<br />

www.neckermann.fr


Super- and hypermarkets<br />

Auchan<br />

Rue de la Recherche 200<br />

F - 59650 Villeneuve-d’Asqu<br />

Tel.: +33 - 320 – 431212<br />

Fax: +33 – 320 – 436400<br />

Carrefour SA<br />

ZAC Saint-Guénault<br />

BP 75<br />

F - 91002 Evry Cedex<br />

Tel.: +33 – 360 – 913737<br />

Fax: +33 – 360 – 794498<br />

www.carrefour.com<br />

Casino-Groupe<br />

24, rue de la Montat<br />

F - 42004 Saint-Etienne<br />

Tel.: +33 – 477 – 454256<br />

Fax: +33 – 477 – 454365<br />

Intermarché<br />

1, rue du Chemin Blanc<br />

F - 91160 Longjumeau<br />

Tel.: +33 – 164 – 545500<br />

Fax: +33 – 164 – 545190<br />

E. Leclerc<br />

52, rue Camille Desmoulins<br />

F - 92451 Issy Les Moulineaux<br />

Tel.: +33 – 146 – 625200<br />

Fax: +33 – 146 – 629600<br />

www.e-leclerc.com<br />

Promodes<br />

Z.I. route de Paris<br />

F - 14127 Mondeville Cedex<br />

Tel.: +33 – 231 – 706000<br />

Fax: +33 – 231 – 706000<br />

Product range: all products<br />

Price segment: mid-price<br />

level<br />

Number of outlets: 14 countries,<br />

294<br />

hypermarkets, 588 supermarkets<br />

Product range: all products<br />

Price segment: mid-price<br />

level<br />

Number of outlets: 215<br />

hypermarkets<br />

Product range: all products<br />

Price segment: mid-price<br />

level<br />

More than 6000 outlets (not<br />

all selling<br />

clothing)<br />

Product range: all products<br />

Price segment: mid-price<br />

level<br />

Number of outlets: approx.<br />

75<br />

Product range: all products<br />

Price segment: mid-price<br />

level<br />

Product range: all products<br />

Price segment: mid-price<br />

level<br />

Manufacturers / importers and wholesalers / importers<br />

Adolphe Lafont SA<br />

320, rue Georges Foulc<br />

F - 69665 Villefranche sur Saone<br />

Tel.: +33 – 474 – 62 68 68<br />

Fax: +33 – 474 – 62 23 99<br />

Chipie International<br />

11, avenue du Général Leclerc<br />

F - 11003 Carcassonne Cedex<br />

Tel.: +33 – 468 10 54 54<br />

Fax: +33 – 468 10 54 55<br />

Catimini SA<br />

94, rue Choletaise<br />

F - 49 – 450 St. Macaire-en-<br />

Mauges<br />

Tel.: +33 – 241 – 71 41 41<br />

Fax: +33 – 241 – 71 41 32<br />

Chouette Sportswear<br />

216, rue St. Denis<br />

F - 75002 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 42 36 39 50<br />

Fax: +33 – 1- 42 36 4 554<br />

Class Affaire<br />

67, rue de Sedaine<br />

F - 75011 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 48 06 46 06<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 48 06 46 92<br />

Coup de Coeur<br />

6, rue de Bachaumont<br />

F - 75002 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 448 28 500<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 448 28 501<br />

Eden Park<br />

9, av. Hoche<br />

F - 75008 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 538 90 010<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 495 30 697<br />

Products: ladies’, men’s<br />

wear, professional wear,<br />

manufacturer and<br />

wholesaler<br />

Products: ladies’,<br />

men’s, children’s wear,<br />

Manufacturer of sportswear,<br />

leisure wear,<br />

35 own shops – brand<br />

‘Chipie’- high price level<br />

www.chipie.tm.fr<br />

Product: children’s wear<br />

and maternity wear<br />

Outlets: 95 shops in<br />

France<br />

Products:<br />

ladies’ wear, sportswear.<br />

Manufacturer<br />

Products:<br />

ladies’, menswear<br />

Manufacturer + 37 shops<br />

Product: womenswear<br />

Manufacturer + 10 shops<br />

Product: menswear<br />

Manufacturer + 7 shops,<br />

15 franchising<br />

partners<br />

www.eden-park.tm.fr<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 29


Buying associations<br />

30<br />

Fusalp (Creations) SA<br />

114, avenue de France<br />

F - 74000 Annecy<br />

Tel.: +33 – 450 – 238888<br />

Fax: +33 – 450 – 238899<br />

Disco SA<br />

18 – 20, avenue Gustave Ferrie<br />

Zone Industrielle, BP 926<br />

F - 49309 Cholet<br />

Tel.: +33 – 241 – 714 452<br />

Fax: +33 – 241 – 714399<br />

Sagam SA<br />

4, allée Verte<br />

F - 75011 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 –143577748<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 143574658<br />

Promodes<br />

9, rue Close Famille/B.P. 19<br />

F - 78240 Chambourcy<br />

Tel.: +33 – 139 – 793944<br />

Fax: +33 – 139 – 794662<br />

Sport Europe Distribution<br />

S.E.D.<br />

10, rue d’Arcelle<br />

F - 38600 Fontaine<br />

Tel.: +33 – 4 – 76859276<br />

Fax: +33 – 4 – 76531067<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Manufacturer jeans- and<br />

sportswear<br />

www.catimini.com<br />

Buying for app. 4,000<br />

retailers - approximately<br />

1.5 billion € turn-over p.a.<br />

Product: childrenswear<br />

and maternity dresses –<br />

226 members<br />

Buying association for<br />

Discounters,<br />

buying via C.I.M.<br />

Product: sportswear


3. Germany.<br />

3.1 General economic situation.<br />

The German economy over the last year collapsed. The gross<br />

domestic product in Germany decreased in 2009 compared to the<br />

previous year by a full 5% decline in real gross domestic product<br />

(GDP). Thus, the recession was more than five times as strong as<br />

in the previously largest decline in 1975 following the oil crisis. At<br />

that time, a decrease of 0.9% was recorded. In 2008, the German<br />

economy had grown by 1.3% a year earlier by 2.5%.<br />

Reason for the severe recession was the slump in exports and<br />

investment. Exports collapsed by 14.7%, while businesses spend<br />

20.0% less in machinery, vehicles and other capital goods. The<br />

construction spending fell by 0.7%. On the other hand private<br />

consumption went up by 0.4%; because the prices barely rose and<br />

the German government introduced the car scrap scheme. The<br />

government consumption grew by 2.7%.<br />

In the second quarter of 2009, the German economy grew for the<br />

first time since the beginning of 2008 - by 0.4% over the previous<br />

quarter. In the third quarter thanks to strong investment, fiscal<br />

stimulus programs and the continuing increase in exports the GDP<br />

grew by 0.7%.<br />

For 2010, the federal government expects a growth of about 1.5%.<br />

Unlike in previous recessions, the labour market remained<br />

relatively stable: It is estimated that the number of unemployed<br />

will rise in 2010 by about 450,000 compared to the 2008 annual<br />

average. However, this figure remains well below the 1.5 million<br />

additional jobs that were created during the years 2006 to 2008.<br />

3.2 The market for outerwear.<br />

3.2.1 Market size<br />

Germany still represents the largest single market within the EU,<br />

with an estimated total sales volume in clothing of 58.4 billion €<br />

in 2008 (Statistics BTE Cologne 2009, amounts at retail prices<br />

including VAT), this represents an increase of 1.0 % to 2007.<br />

The outerwear clothing sales volume was 50.3 billion € in 2008<br />

(down from € 50.9 billion in 2007), this corresponds to an average<br />

spending per person of € 611 (down from € 618 in 2007) per<br />

annum (EU average in 2008 was € 590 per annum). For the last 3<br />

years, German households spent a constant average of 4.4% of<br />

their disposable income on clothing.<br />

Several factors resulted in the stagnation of expenditure on<br />

clothing, like:<br />

• Decreasing population figures<br />

• Changing consumer expectations<br />

• Growing imports from low-cost countries<br />

3.2.2 Market characteristics<br />

In 2009, clothing price rose by 2.4% and the average outerwear<br />

spending per person reached € 611 in 2008, which was higher<br />

than the EU average of € 590.<br />

The present situation of the outerwear market in Germany can be<br />

characterised by the following brief statements:<br />

Clothing items from the outerwear segment can be characterised<br />

by a permanent price decrease. The main reason for this is<br />

the production of garments from low-wage countries. Product<br />

imitation has become easier through global production, easy<br />

communication by Internet / e-mail and liberalised trade.<br />

Renowned market research institutes have stated that the ‘middle<br />

market segment’, (which is characterised by quality consciousness<br />

and ‘brand orientation’) has become much smaller in recent years.<br />

The outerwear and clothing market is moving in two directions:<br />

(a) value/price and (b) trend/fashion, whilst the middle segment is<br />

decreasing.<br />

German consumers are well-known for their price consciousness,<br />

the share of private label merchandise in the outerwear market<br />

being higher than in other major EU countries. Influences of the<br />

media (magazines, TV and Internet) make consumers more<br />

conscious about the latest fashion trends and prices, so they are<br />

better informed to make a choice than before.<br />

Especially the men’s wear market is very dynamic due to an<br />

increasing number of fashion-conscious men. Spin-offs from adult<br />

brands and extensive marketing led to good results in children’s<br />

and teenage clothing from trendy brands and sports labels.<br />

However, the market for children’s outerwear has been negatively<br />

affected by the declining birth rate. Babies’ wear and small sizes<br />

in children clothes are decreasing, due to the popularity of second<br />

hand clothes and by receiving used clothes from friends and<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 31


family. The German population is becoming oversized, so that<br />

demand for clothes for the full figured man or woman is high and<br />

increasing. Many companies started collections for larger sized<br />

clothing.<br />

3.2.3 Demographic characteristics<br />

Figure 3 shows that the major population segment by age group is<br />

between 40 and 44 years of age (approximately 7.5 million – male<br />

and female), followed by those in the 35-39 bracket (approximately<br />

7 million people). In other words, Germans in their early forties<br />

represent the largest target group (in numbers only).<br />

The younger generation under 25 is comparatively small, e.g. the<br />

age group between 20 and 24 represents only approx. 4.5 million<br />

Germans (5.5% of the whole population). The smallest potential<br />

‘target group’, apart from those over 70, is the segment under 10<br />

years of age. The consequences of this for clothing manufacturers<br />

from foreign countries are evident.<br />

Figure 3: Age structure of German population by gender, 2008<br />

32<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

10 0 +<br />

9 5 - 9 9<br />

9 0 - 9 4<br />

8 5 - 9 0<br />

8 0 - 8 5<br />

75 -79<br />

70 -74<br />

6 5 - 6 9<br />

6 0 - 6 4<br />

5 5 - 59<br />

50 - 5 4<br />

4 5 - 49<br />

4 0 - 4 4<br />

3 5 - 3 9<br />

3 0 - 3 4<br />

25 -29<br />

20 -24<br />

15 -19<br />

10 -14<br />

5 - 9<br />

0 - 4<br />

male female<br />

4,0 3,5 3,0 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5 3,0 3,5 4,0<br />

Source: U.S. Census Bureau, International Data Base<br />

Population in millions<br />

The size and age structure of the population is one of the basic<br />

determinants of how much will be spent on outerwear.<br />

The German population is decreasing at a very slow pace from<br />

82.5 million in 2003 to 82.3 million in 2007 and 82.0 million end of<br />

2008. It is projected to decrease to 81.2 million by 2015.<br />

The following positive trends influence the market for outerwear:<br />

The older people amongst the aging population tend to spend<br />

more on comfortable clothing, while outdoor activities are<br />

becoming more and more popular among an important number of<br />

active seniors.<br />

Younger consumers are becoming more and more interested in<br />

fashion trends.<br />

The following negative trends influence the market for outerwear:<br />

The German birth rate is projected to decrease over the next<br />

years; this will affect the growth of the babies’ wear market.


3.2.4 Retail sales by product category<br />

Table 18 shows that the overall outerwear turnover increased<br />

by 4.1% from 2007 to the 1st quarter 2009. This is a good result<br />

compared to the high downturn of -13.4% between 2002 and the<br />

1st quarter 2005.<br />

The total turnover for men’s wear (6.1%) performed by 1% better<br />

than women’s wear (5.1%). Children’s wear decreased by 1%<br />

in total turnover; this reflects the declining birth-rate and the<br />

popularity of second hand clothes and used clothes received from<br />

friends and family.<br />

There are several ways of segmenting the clothing market. Table<br />

18 provides an overview of the turnover development in the major<br />

product segments, in percentages, covering the main items of<br />

women’s, men’s and children’s outerwear analysed by this survey.<br />

Table 18: <strong>Outerwear</strong> turnover development in % by gender and<br />

product categories<br />

2007 2008 1st Q.<br />

2009<br />

Women’s wear 3 1 1<br />

coats -4 0 -7<br />

suits -4 2 -5<br />

jackets/blazers -1 1 4<br />

dresses 12 3 7<br />

skirts -6 -22 -10<br />

trousers 3 -1 -2<br />

Jeans wear 3 5 4<br />

blouses 10 -2 -3<br />

Men’s wear 3 2 1<br />

coats 3 2 -1<br />

suits 2 2 2<br />

blazers 5 -5 -6<br />

jackets 5 5 3<br />

trousers 3 -2 -4<br />

Jeans wear 6 3 3<br />

Children’s wear 2 -1 -2<br />

Textiles total 2 1 1<br />

Source: BTE Cologne, 2009<br />

3.2.5 Consumer behaviour<br />

The latest observations on consumer behaviour based on market<br />

research for this marketing handbook show that consumer of<br />

2009:<br />

• react very noticeably to economic changes and moods<br />

• tend to buy less since all wardrobes are full and basic needs can<br />

be fulfilled less expensively<br />

• are highly sensitive to price the former belief that ‘cheap things’<br />

are bad and expensive is good, no longer applies<br />

• show a clear trend towards shopping at textile discounters<br />

• Significant fashion impulse does not exist any more. If everything<br />

is acceptable, then so does the outfit from last year.<br />

3.2.5.1 Consumer preferences<br />

There have been tremendous shifts in consumer preferences with<br />

regard to the most popular shops in recent years. Market leaders<br />

confirm that this development corresponds directly to more unpredictable<br />

consumer buying patterns towards much cheaper goods,<br />

closer to the actual demand (not in advance) and in shops with<br />

more ‘event character’.<br />

A survey of the clothing market segment shows that many Germans<br />

buy from clothing multiples (31%). Department stores lost<br />

1% compared to 2004 to 11% in 2007 are has been overtook by<br />

home shopping companies (13%).<br />

Table 19 shows the trends in various retail channels between 2003<br />

and 2007. Compared to its 28% market share in 2000, independent<br />

retailers constantly continue loosing market share from 2003<br />

to 2007.<br />

Table 19: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]<br />

2003 2005 2007<br />

Specialists 55 55 54<br />

Independent retailers 26 25 23<br />

Clothing multiples* 29 30 31<br />

Non-specialists 45 45 46<br />

Department/variety stores 13 12 11<br />

Home shopping companies 13 12 13<br />

Hyper- and supermarkets 5 6 7<br />

Sports stores 4 5 5<br />

Other 10 10 10<br />

Total 100 100 100<br />

Source: CBI and BTE – Note: *including discounters<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 33


Following the 2008 communication analysis report published by the<br />

Brigitte magazine, the 5 most preferred clothing retailers among all<br />

female consumers between the ages of 14 and 64 years are;<br />

1) C&A<br />

2) H&M<br />

3) Galeria Kaufhof<br />

4) Karstadt<br />

5) Esprit<br />

Looking at consumer patterns, market research by Intermedia<br />

in 2009 on behalf of Burda Verlag, Hamburg shows interesting<br />

results, summarised in Table 20. The key fact is that 22.7 % of women<br />

are interested in the latest fashion trends and 19.4 % of men<br />

have the same interest.<br />

Table 20: Consumer patterns with regard to interest in fashion,<br />

purchase timing, brand awareness and bargains by gender,<br />

2009 [%]<br />

Women Men<br />

Interest in fashion<br />

I am interested<br />

in the latest fashion trends<br />

22.7 19.4<br />

I often talk about fashion<br />

Purchase timing<br />

17.9 13.8<br />

I often buy fashion<br />

at the beginning of the season,<br />

when the new range comes<br />

into the shops<br />

10.4 11.2<br />

I often buy fashion at<br />

the end of the season,<br />

when prices have already been<br />

reduced in many places<br />

Brand Awareness and Bargains<br />

43.5 39.8<br />

I am very concerned about<br />

buying the right vvvbrand<br />

13.7 15.9<br />

I often buy special offers 51.1 45.2<br />

Source: Typologie der Wünsche, Intermedia-Burda, 2009<br />

34<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

3.2.5.2 Consumer expenditure<br />

The private household consumption increased by 0.3% to € 1’341<br />

billion in 2009.<br />

The latest detailed analysis of expenditure structures of German<br />

households by the German Federal Statistical Office in 2009<br />

shows that out of € 100, € 4.40 was spent on clothing. Single<br />

males have a relatively higher disposable income but save most<br />

on textiles and clothing. Couples with kids spend the most on<br />

textiles. The self-employed and employees tend to spend the most<br />

on clothing.<br />

Table 22 gives an overview of the share of the clothing segments<br />

in German household expenditure. A general tendency is for consumers<br />

to spend less on clothing, especially since the beginning<br />

of 2002 and the introduction of the Euro. Also a large part of their<br />

income is spent on electronic devices, services, travel, education,<br />

fitness / health and rent for housing.<br />

A different analysis of consumer expenditure by the CBI in 2009<br />

showed that the per capita consumption for clothing amounted to<br />

€ 611 per year. Table 21 shows the annual consumption in different<br />

product groups. A clear fact is that the per capita consumption<br />

has decreased in value in recent years, as the turnover in the<br />

clothing market has reduced, whilst the population has increased.<br />

Table 21: Expenditures on outerwear per capita for outerwear,<br />

2009 [€/year]<br />

Total (average)<br />

of which:<br />

611<br />

Women’s outerwear 786<br />

Men’s outerwear 425<br />

Children’s outerwear 623<br />

Source: Gherzi estimation, CBI 2009<br />

The share of clothing expenditure in all household expenses has<br />

permanently fallen. According to Table 22, published by the BTE<br />

(German Association of Textile Retailers), German consumers<br />

only spend in 2008 an average of 4.4 % of their purchases on<br />

fashion. Back in 1997 German households used to spend 5.8 % of<br />

their disposable income on clothing.


Table 22: Household spending on clothing [% of total spending]<br />

2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008<br />

4.82 4.61 4.42 4.42 4.43 4.43 4.39<br />

Source: German Federal Statistical Office<br />

Table 23: Average retail prices by product categories<br />

2004 2008 CAGR<br />

2004-2008*<br />

Suit 312 349 2.84%<br />

Coat 216 246 3.30%<br />

Sports jacket 134 174 6.75%<br />

Trousers (classic) 89 110 5.44%<br />

Trousers (leisure) 73 90 5.37%<br />

Jeans 76 84 2.53%<br />

Sweatshirt 71 79 2.71%<br />

Jacket 145 201 8.51%<br />

Leather jacket 323 350 2.03%<br />

Shirt 44 50 3.25%<br />

Polo shirt 28 33 4.19%<br />

Tie 30 37 5.38%<br />

Source: BTE Cologne 2009 – Note: *Compound Annual Growth Rate<br />

3.2.6 Price developments of clothing<br />

Between 2007 and the first half of 2009, the prices for all product<br />

segments in the clothing sector have increased in a lower percentage<br />

as the total cost of living. For more details, see Table 24<br />

Table 24: Clothing price index relative to national consumer price<br />

index (2007-2009).<br />

Index: 2005 = 100 2007 2008 1st half 2009<br />

Price index clothing 100.7 101.4 102.8<br />

Price index total cost of living 103.9 106.6 107.7<br />

Source: BTE Cologne 2009 – Note: Based on all private households in Germany<br />

3.3 Imports.<br />

3.3.1 Total imports<br />

Table 25 gives an overview of import volume in terms of value and<br />

volume of the respective product groups into Germany. The value<br />

of total imports has grown by only 1.7% from 2006 to 2008. Total<br />

extra European imports grew by 7.5% in the same time period.<br />

The total European import share fell from 36.4% in 2006 to 32.8%<br />

in 2008.<br />

In general, imports from non EU countries have increased in most<br />

product segments, thus indicating more sales opportunities for<br />

manufacturers abroad (including, to a large extent, developing<br />

countries).<br />

The two main knitted product groups imported where t-shirts,<br />

singlet (61.09) and jersey, pullovers, etc. (61.10). From 2006 to<br />

2008 the 61.09 product group had a slight decline of 2.1% and<br />

61.10 had only an insignificant growth of under 1%. Men shirt<br />

(61.05) and women suits (61.04) had the highest growth with<br />

28.3% (61.05) and 31.4% (61.04) from 2006 to 2008. The share of<br />

European imports of knitted outerwear fell from 32.7% in 2006 to<br />

30.6% in 2008.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 35


Table 25: Imports of knitted outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008<br />

36<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

2006 2007 2008<br />

Tons 1‘000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />

For men or boys<br />

Coats, raincoats, anoraks<br />

etc. (61.01)<br />

1‘861 41‘746 2’276 44’170 2’477 43’823<br />

Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers,<br />

shorts etc. (61.03)<br />

7’545 89’433 9’829 93’195 10’455 84’631<br />

Shirts (61.05) 18’141 303’649 22’926 368’153 24’658 389’701<br />

Sub Total 27’546 434’828 35’031 505’518 37’590 518’155<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

For women or girls<br />

21’425 274’296 28’914 331’538 32’643 365’237<br />

Coats, raincoats, anoraks<br />

etc. (61.02)<br />

12’165 193’524 12’519 198’127 15’943 243’406<br />

Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers,<br />

dresses, skirts etc.<br />

(61.04)<br />

40’970 614’055 56’711 793’274 61’496 806’679<br />

Blouses and shirts (61.06) 17’673 402’579 20’975 462’999 21’695 469’191<br />

Sub Total 70’808 1’210’158 90’204 1’454’400 99’135 1’519’275<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

For both genders<br />

56’869 796’621 75’257 974’985 86’395 1’082’953<br />

T-shirts, singlets etc.<br />

(61.09)<br />

172’574 2’560’691 180’682 2’708’509 169’890 2’505’292<br />

Jersey, pullovers, cardigans,<br />

waistcoats, etc.<br />

(61.10)<br />

158’491 2’870’355 143’219 2’660’808 157’014 2’880’060<br />

Babies’ garments (61.11) 14’503 203’398 15’776 213’803 15’839 217’708<br />

Garments rubberised, impregnated,<br />

etc. (61.13)<br />

7’545 89’433 9’829 93’195 10’455 84’631<br />

Gloves, mittens and mitts<br />

(61.16)<br />

12’135 122’208 14’824 134’804 16’540 146’418<br />

Other made-up clothing<br />

accessories (61.17)<br />

6’992 113’302 6’974 107’826 7’230 112’015<br />

Sub Total 372’238 5’959’386 371’304 5’918’945 376’967 5’946’124<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

Active Sportswear<br />

292’830 4’077’694 290’031 3’991’723 302’779 4’166’553<br />

Track suits, ski suits and<br />

swimwear (61.12)<br />

12’356 225’973 12’916 239’550 11’573 225’180<br />

Special garments for professional<br />

sporting or other<br />

purposes (61.14)<br />

6’163 152’003 7’676 169’399 7’886 169’746<br />

Sub Total 18’519 377’976 20’593 408’949 19’459 394’926<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 13’942 226’662 15’414 241’585 14’244 220’331<br />

TOTAL 489’111 7’982’349 517’132 8’287’811 533’151 8’378’480<br />

TOTAL EXTRA EU<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

385’065 5’375’273 409’616 5’539’830 436’060 5’835’073


As shown in table 26 the two main woven product groups imported<br />

where suits, jackets, etc. for women (62.04) and suits, jackets<br />

etc. for men (62.03). From 2006 to 2008 the 62.04 product group<br />

had a value decline of 12.1% and 62.03 had an increase of 4.8%.<br />

Shawls, scarves, etc. (62.14) and coats, anoraks, etc. for women<br />

Table 26: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008<br />

(62.02) had the highest growth with 22.2% (62.14) and 13.9%<br />

(62.14) from 2006 to 2008. The share of European imports of<br />

woven outerwear fell from 39.2% in 2006 to 34.7% in 2008. Total<br />

imports of woven outerwear fell by 0.7% in the same time period<br />

2006 2007 2008<br />

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />

For men or boys<br />

Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.01) 34’577 587’274 39’208 606’213 39’657 614’840<br />

Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts, etc.<br />

(62.03)<br />

148’688 2’836’842 159’554 2’946’346 160’250 2’973’935<br />

Shirts (62.05) 42’370 812’348 47’678 847’702 43’024 807’638<br />

Sub Total 225’634 4’236’464 246’440 4’400’261 242’931 4’396’412<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

For women or girls<br />

166’946 2’409’221 192’041 2’660’920 198’140 2’836’084<br />

Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.02) 56’211 923’077 62’019 961’399 62’025 1’050’988<br />

Suits, jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers, etc<br />

(62.04)<br />

159’685 3’463’442 159’769 3’442’706 143’015 3’042’514<br />

Blouses and shirts (62.06) 23’293 740’991 25’921 818’891 24’448 800’524<br />

Sub Total 239’189 5’127’510 247’708 5’222’995 229’488 4’894’026<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

For both genders<br />

183’328 3’209’334 196’706 3’314’724 184’732 3’188’785<br />

Babies garments (62.09) 6’964 99’378 6’834 100’099 6’624 96’955<br />

Others incl. Impregnated (62.10) 28’780 401’021 29’938 397’227 28’751 395’971<br />

Shawls, scarves, mufflers, etc. (62.14) 4’490 103’442 3’992 99’108 5’853 126’385<br />

Ties, bow ties and cravats (62.15) 1’180 57’726 1’335 62’186 1’434 59’693<br />

Gloves, mittens and mitts (62.16) 3’989 46’028 4’094 37’201 3’575 42’596<br />

Other made-up clothing accessoires (62.17) 4’460 61’754 4’533 64’155 3’878 54’455<br />

Sub Total 49’863 769’348 50’727 759’976 50’113 776’054<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

Active Sportswear<br />

39’177 526’678 40’693 518’993 40’649 538’155<br />

Track suits, ski suits (62.11) 25’245 366’869 25’960 375’094 24’845 355’702<br />

Sub Total 25’245 366’869 25’960 375’094 24’845 355’702<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 19’791 237’536 21’137 247’387 20’666 241’101<br />

TOTAL 539’931 10’500’192 570’834 10’758’326 547’377 10’422’194<br />

TOTAL EXTRA EU 409’242 6’382’769 450’577 6’742’024 444’186 6’804’126<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 37


3.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT)<br />

A brief analysis of the OPT imports of outerwear into Germany<br />

shows that most of the top 20 OPT countries decreased OPT with<br />

Germany in 2008. Overall OPT decreased by 35% from year 2006<br />

to 2008.<br />

Sri Lanka, Vietnam and Bosnia-Herzegovina have increased their<br />

OPT activities with Germany by 59%, 53% and 43% respectively<br />

from 2006 to 2008.<br />

Table 27: Largest supplying countries of OPT outerwear, 2006-2008<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

38<br />

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change<br />

from 2006<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

3.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear<br />

Table 28 shows the imports of finished products from major<br />

supplying countries into Germany between 2006 and 2008.<br />

Germany’s main import partners are China followed by Turkey and<br />

Bangladesh. The three leading supplying countries represent 46%<br />

of all clothing imports in 2008. Not less than 67% of all imports<br />

originate from non-EU countries.<br />

Extra European imports by Germany increased by 7.5% from<br />

2006 to 2008. Taking a closer look to the largest extra EU<br />

supplying countries of outerwear (Table 28), the ‘winners’ in terms<br />

of sales increases from 2006 to 2008 are China (+43%), Egypt<br />

(+39%) and <strong>Switzerland</strong> (+31%). The ‘losers’ are Hong Kong<br />

(-73%), Cambodia (-26%) and Myanmar (-25%)<br />

2007 [‘000 €] Change<br />

from 2007<br />

2008 [‘000 €]<br />

1 Macedonia 115’634 20% 138’538 7% 148’863<br />

2 Ukraine 185’669 -14% 160’464 -10% 144’647<br />

3 Vietnam 25’579 14% 29’129 35% 39’250<br />

4 China 33’157 24% 41’214 -5% 39’028<br />

5 Tunisia 37’956 8% 41’025 -8% 37’576<br />

6 Hong Kong 32’643 22% 39’778 -7% 37’058<br />

7 Bosnia-Herz. 25’127 35% 33’875 6% 35’891<br />

8 Croatia 25’713 14% 29’195 13% 32’955<br />

9 Indonesia 17’571 26% 22’223 3% 22’929<br />

10 Moldova 24’421 7% 26’108 -17% 21’607<br />

11 Serbia 20’065 33% 26’716 -31% 18’516<br />

12 Sri Lanka 8’786 36% 11’924 17% 14’000<br />

13 Morocco 16’176 0% 16’164 -18% 13’242<br />

14 Belarus 20’517 -43% 11’768 -13% 10’233<br />

15 Thailand 8’703 25% 10’847 -16% 9’129<br />

16 Philippines 8’470 5% 8’912 -3% 8’661<br />

17 Myanmar 10’085 -16% 8’428 -15% 7’145<br />

18 Albania 5’690 -4% 5’479 5% 5’726<br />

19 Russia 16’189 -54% 7’496 -25% 5’626<br />

20 Colombia 5’189 -33% 3’481 -4% 3’358<br />

Total 2’052’996 -33% 1’367’722 -3% 1’333’493


Table 28: Largest extra EU supplying countries of outerwear,<br />

2006-2008<br />

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change<br />

from 2006<br />

2007 [‘000 €] Change<br />

from 2007<br />

2008 [‘000<br />

€]<br />

1 China 3’531’488 21% 4’277’658 18% 5’052’168<br />

2 Turkey 2’266’329 6% 2’406’256 -10% 2’164’774<br />

3 Bangladesh 1’322’747 -5% 1’252’179 10% 1’382’857<br />

4 India 636’947 -1% 629’546 7% 676’051<br />

5 Indonesia 379’466 -8% 350’770 9% 382’068<br />

6 Vietnam 286’205 12% 320’795 4% 332’125<br />

7 Tunisia 263’559 14% 300’974 5% 316’015<br />

8 Macedonia 250’020 13% 281’857 1% 283’411<br />

9 Pakistan 188’163 2% 191’213 -5% 182’072<br />

10 Hong Kong 649’736 -39% 396’867 -55% 178’285<br />

11 Cambodia 239’220 -28% 173’271 2% 176’215<br />

12 Ukraine 193’167 -14% 166’724 -8% 153’661<br />

13 <strong>Switzerland</strong> 117’102 43% 167’025 -8% 153’373<br />

14 Thailand 140’748 -16% 118’085 1% 119’368<br />

15 Morocco 125’567 1% 126’818 -16% 106’876<br />

16 Sri Lanka 82’690 17% 96’539 10% 106’336<br />

17 Egypt 68’938 6% 73’048 31% 95’506<br />

18 Croatia 103’687 2% 105’975 -12% 93’526<br />

19 Bosnia and Herzegovina 59’305 8% 64’257 5% 67’460<br />

20 Myanmar 82’290 -16% 68’844 -11% 61’389<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

Extra-EU 27 11’735’915 4% 12’259’693 3% 12’616’660<br />

Intra-EU 27 6’666’593 1% 6’702’980 -9% 6’105’096<br />

Total 18’402’508 3% 18’962’673 -1% 18’721’757<br />

European imports by Germany decreased by 8.4% from 2006<br />

to 2008. Taking a closer look to the largest intra EU supplying<br />

countries of outerwear (Table 29), the ‘winners’ in terms of sales<br />

increases from 2006 to 2008 are Poland (+34%), France (+13%)<br />

and Belgium (+7%). The ‘losers’ are Romania (-33%), Bulgaria<br />

(-19%) and Italy (-15%).<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 39


Table 29: Largest intra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008<br />

40<br />

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change<br />

from 2006<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

2007 [‘000 €] Change<br />

from 2007<br />

2008 [‘000 €]<br />

1 Netherlands 977’171 10% 1’075’327 -16% 902’396<br />

2 Italy 968’719 -4% 934’172 -12% 824’799<br />

3 Poland 451’965 4% 469’121 29% 606’172<br />

4 Romania 845’030 -24% 641’298 -12% 563’918<br />

5 Belgium 375’729 6% 398’439 0% 400’277<br />

6 Denmark 420’293 2% 428’398 -8% 394’474<br />

7 France 327’427 24% 406’936 -9% 369’416<br />

8 Bulgaria 404’017 -12% 355’342 -8% 325’439<br />

9 United Kingdom 320’485 2% 327’902 -4% 315’168<br />

10 Austria 259’514 10% 285’428 -13% 247’062<br />

Intra EU 27 6’666’593 1% 6’702’980 -9% 6’105’096<br />

Extra EU 27 11’735’915 4% 12’259’693 3% 12’616’660<br />

Total 18’402’508 3% 18’962’673 -1% 18’721’757<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

3.4 Trade structure.<br />

3.4.1 Developments in the retail trade<br />

Table 30: The most important foreign-owned clothing retailers<br />

in Germany<br />

Retailer Country<br />

of origin<br />

Hennes & Mauritz Sweden 340<br />

Vögele <strong>Switzerland</strong> 326<br />

Miss Etam France 81<br />

Orsay (Mulliez Group) Germany (France) 260<br />

Pimkie (Mulliez Group) Germany (France) 170<br />

Benetton Italy 212<br />

Zara (Inditex) Spain 65<br />

Mango Spain 52<br />

M&S Mode Netherlands 62<br />

Arsana Turkey 230<br />

Zeeman Netherlands 245<br />

Source: Gherzi analysis, CBI<br />

Number of<br />

stores in<br />

Germany<br />

20 companies accounted for 50% of the German retail-clothing<br />

and textile market.<br />

The major developments in the German clothing retail structure<br />

are as follows:<br />

Market shares of specialised clothing multiples, textile discounters<br />

and non-specialists like hyper-, supermarkets, discounters, variety<br />

stores and also the coffee shop chain Tchibo, have increased in<br />

the outerwear sector. This has negatively affected specialized<br />

independents and department stores.<br />

According to BTE, the total number of German outlets with clothing<br />

in their assortment is 45’000. The number of independent clothing<br />

stores is estimated at 26’500, of which 7’000 are specialised in<br />

women’s wear, 2’000 in men’s wear, 15’000 have a broader range<br />

and the remaining part is specialised in another product group.<br />

Around 40% of the independent retailers are member of a buying<br />

corporation. In no other European country, with the exception<br />

of the Netherlands, do the buying organisations also act as<br />

independent retailers as they do in Germany. The most important<br />

buying corporations are Ardek (http://www.ardek.de) which<br />

specializes in babies’ and children's products including clothing<br />

and has 350 members with 500 outlets; and Katag-abz (http://


www.katag.net) which operates through 364 members with 1’200<br />

outlets. Other buying groups are Unitex (http://www.unitex-gmbh.<br />

de) with 500 members; Sütegro (http://www.suetegro.de) which<br />

has 130 members and is specialized in women’s wear. Sütegro<br />

became the fashion and style division of the EK-Service group.<br />

Most of the sport shops are organisations of independent retailers,<br />

many of them being organised in (international) co-operations like<br />

Intersport (1’462 outlets; http://www.intersport.com) and Sport<br />

2000 (770 members with 1’130 outlets; http://www.sport2000.de).<br />

Table 31 gives an overview of the important German chains,<br />

operating in Germany. Some remarks regarding this overview:<br />

• Orsay is owned by the French Muliez Group. Since the with<br />

drawal of Orsay from the French market, this company can be<br />

considered as German-based.<br />

• Since 1997, the European part of the Esprit business was<br />

acquired by the Hong Kong division of Esprit Holding.<br />

Headquarters of Esprit Europe is established in Germany, from<br />

which the wholesale and retail activities are managed.<br />

• The number of children’s wear chains and men’s wear chains is<br />

very limited in Germany.<br />

• Leading clothing multiple C&A sells clothing for the whole family<br />

and operates mainly in the middle of the market, but is also<br />

active in both the upper and the lower price brackets. Other<br />

C&A formula are Kids Stores and Women Stores (mostly active<br />

in Germany). The market share of C&A came under pressure,<br />

besides increasing competition from non-specialists, since the<br />

entrance and strong expansion of foreign general clothing chains<br />

like Hennes & Mauritz, Vögele and Zara.<br />

Table 31: Major German-based chains selling outerwear<br />

(2008/2009)<br />

Retail chain<br />

General<br />

Parent company Number of<br />

stores in<br />

Germany<br />

C&A C&A 303<br />

P&C P&C West and P&C Nord 88<br />

Sinn Leffers WHG 24<br />

Wöhrl Wöhrl 40<br />

K+L Ruppert K+L Ruppert 61<br />

Strauss Innovation Strauss Innovation 98<br />

Esprit<br />

Women<br />

Esprit Europe 140<br />

Bonita Mode Bonita Group 732<br />

Ulla Popken Popken Group 186<br />

Women Store C&A 17<br />

Orsay<br />

Men<br />

Mulliez Group (France) 260<br />

Pohland Pohland 12<br />

NIC<br />

Children<br />

Bonita Group 60<br />

Kids Stores<br />

Leisure<br />

C&A 105<br />

New Yorker Friedrich Knapp 299<br />

Mister Lady Western Store Beran 204<br />

Jeans Fritz<br />

Sports<br />

Schaeffer-Kuehn 191<br />

Runners Point<br />

Discounters<br />

Hannover Finanz 102<br />

Ernsting’s Family Ernsting Familie 1’350<br />

Takko Takko Holding 841<br />

KiK Tengelmann-Gruppe 2’039<br />

Adler Metro Group 107<br />

NKD Daun & Cie. 1’000<br />

Source: CBI<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 41


Textile discounters sell family clothing, sportswear, body wear<br />

and household textiles, but sometimes also other product groups.<br />

They buy in large quantities and avoid middlemen, in order to get<br />

low-priced goods in the shops quickly. All discounters mentioned<br />

increased strongly in turnover and in number of outlets in recent<br />

years; they compete, among others, with the Dutch discount chain<br />

Zeeman (239 stores in Germany).<br />

Table 32: Other outerwear selling branches in Germany<br />

Retail chain<br />

Food discounters<br />

Web site Number of stores in Germany<br />

Aldi Nord www.aldi-essen.de 2’500<br />

Aldi Süd www.aldi-sued.de 1’700<br />

Lidl www.lidl.de 2’950<br />

Netto www.netto-online.de 1’442<br />

Penny www.penny.de 2’000<br />

Plus<br />

Super- and hypermarkets<br />

www.plus.de 2’950<br />

Real www.metrogroup.de 343<br />

Kaufland/Kaufmarkt www.kaufland.de 750<br />

Tengelmann www.tengelmann.de 3’379<br />

Edeka (Spar, Netto, etc.)<br />

Non-specialized stores<br />

www.edeka.de 12’000<br />

Metro C+C www.metro-cc.de 122<br />

Fegro / Selgros www.fegro-selgros.de 44<br />

Tchibo www.tchibo.com 900<br />

Source: CBI<br />

According to CBI the actual trends are as follows:<br />

• Market conditions have become more difficult and the<br />

competitive pressure is increasing. This is due to the expansion<br />

of powerful foreign companies in the German market and<br />

market activities by companies from outside the clothing sector.<br />

On the other side, many German retail chains have expanded<br />

their activities abroad.<br />

• The non-food offer in the grocery sector is increasing in<br />

Germany. The hypermarket format, with its strong non-food<br />

component, plays an increasingly important role. However,<br />

it should be noted that these companies operate more in<br />

low-priced incidental offers than in a fixed/permanent outerwear<br />

assortment.<br />

42<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Many textiles, including knitted and woven outerwear, can increasingly<br />

be found in food discounters, super- and hypermarkets.<br />

• Ongoing expansion by many of the leading chains to develop<br />

smaller store formats, so as to create a more specialised<br />

boutique character (for instance H&M, C&A and Zara).<br />

• Stronger ranges of complementary accessories and footwear.<br />

• Clothing specialised multiples have been the largest exponents<br />

of the fast-fashion phenomenon, which has encouraged more<br />

frequent purchasing.


3.4.2 Leading retailers<br />

Table 33 gives an excellent overview of the structure and the<br />

development of the largest German textile retailers. This analysis<br />

was carried out by the renowned trade magazine Textilwirtschaft/<br />

Frankfurt on an annual basis<br />

Table 33: Major German textile retailers 2008 / 2007<br />

Position Retailer Chain Turnover 2008 [mn €] Turnover 2007 [mn €] Change [%]<br />

1 Arcandor 4’116 4’170 -1.3%<br />

2 Otto 3’480 3’406 2.2%<br />

3 C&A 2’954 2’933 0.7%<br />

4 Metro 2’539 3’077 -17.5%<br />

5 H&M 2’476 2’395 3.4%<br />

6 Tengelmann 1’568 1’498 4.7%<br />

7 P&C, Düsseldorf 1’343 1’351 -0.6%<br />

8 Aldi-Gruppe 1’071 1’100 -2.6%<br />

9 Lidl 1’029 1’050 -2.0%<br />

10 Tchibo 931 1’023 -9.0%<br />

11 Esprit 800 740 8.1%<br />

12 Ersting’s Family 676 550 22.9%<br />

13 New Yorker 622 603 3.2%<br />

14 Takko 560 566 -1.1%<br />

15 Klingel 525 536 -2.1%<br />

16 NKD 498 498 0.0%<br />

17 Adler 464 515 -9.9%<br />

18 Bonita 443 428 3.5%<br />

19 Sinn Leffers 430 474 -9.3%<br />

20 P&C, Hamburg 420 420 0.0%<br />

Source: Textilwirtschaft<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 43


3.4.3 Distribution channels<br />

The structure of the textile / clothing retail market can also be split<br />

into two major groups: “specialised retailers” and “larger forms of<br />

textile retail”. For more details, see Table 34.<br />

Table 34: Textile and clothing retail channels by market share,<br />

2006 - 2008<br />

Retail channel 2006 2007 2008<br />

General clothing retail 38.0 39.3 39.5<br />

Men clothing retail 2.6 2.6 2.7<br />

Women clothing retail 7.6 7.6 7.6<br />

Children clothing retail 0.5 0.6 0.5<br />

Others 0.2 0.2 0.2<br />

Total general clothing retail 48.9 50.3 50.5<br />

Dowry, bedding 2.2 2.2 2.3<br />

Carpet, drape 3.2 3.2 3.2<br />

Other 0.8 0.8 0.7<br />

Total general textile retail 6.2 6.2 6.2<br />

Total textile and clothing<br />

specialised retail<br />

55.1 56.5 56.7<br />

Department stores 12.2 11.9 11.7<br />

Sports shops 2.5 2.5 2.6<br />

Home shopping companies 13.5 12.8 12.9<br />

Super- and Hypermarkets 13.7 13.4 13.1<br />

Other 3.0 2.9 3.0<br />

Total non textile or clothing<br />

specialised retail<br />

44.9 43.5 43.3<br />

Grand Total 100.0 100.0 100.0<br />

Source: BTE<br />

44<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

3.4.3.1 Retailers<br />

3.4.3.1.1 General clothing retail<br />

Independent retailers do not usually buy directly from developing<br />

countries. With approximately 43'000 textile and clothing shops<br />

all over Germany, they still play an important role in the market. A<br />

high percentage of the retailers are members of buying associations<br />

that takes over certain functions from the members such as<br />

purchasing, marketing, logistics etc.<br />

The most important department stores are C&A (435)*, H&M<br />

(339)*, P&C West and Anson’s Menswear (88)* and P&C North<br />

(25)*, Sinn Leffers (47)*, K+L Ruppert (65)*, C. Vögele (326)* and<br />

Wöhrl (36)*. New Yorker with 302 outlets is the largest jeans and<br />

sportswear chain. The major women's wear multiples are BiBa<br />

(250)* and Appelrath_ Cüpper (14)*, part of the Douglas Group,<br />

Orsay from France (242)*, Bonita (800)* and Ulla Popken for large<br />

sizes (187)*. Menswear multiples are NIC (41)* (owned by Bonita)<br />

and Pohland (8)*.<br />

* number of outlets<br />

Market share: 48.9% in 2008<br />

Trend: Slightly increasing (2006 = 50.5%)<br />

3.4.3.1.2 Department stores<br />

The major department stores are Karstadt with 120 outlets (since<br />

1st December 2009 in chapter 11) and Galleria Kaufhof with 113<br />

stores, belonging to the Metro group. Galleria Kaufhof's turnover<br />

declined constantly from € 3.6 bn in 2006 to € 3.5 bn in 2008.<br />

Another example is Woolworth with 161 outlets.<br />

Market share: 11.7% in 2008<br />

Trend: Slightly decreasing (2006 = 12.2%)<br />

3.4.3.1.3 Sport shops<br />

The turnover of clothing in sports shops is influenced by the unpredictable<br />

weather, shorter product life cycles, consumer behaviour<br />

and continued cost and price pressures. In recent years sports<br />

shops have developed themselves from pure or predominant providers<br />

of winter clothing towards providers with a large range of for<br />

all weather gears, with emphasis on outdoor and lifestyle.<br />

Market share: 2.6% in 2008<br />

Trend: Slightly increasing (2006 = 2.5%)


3.4.3.1.4 Home shopping companies<br />

Quelle, one of the leading home shopping companies filed chapter<br />

11 in 2009. The Otto Group (another leading home shopping company)<br />

bought the Quelle brand. This deal still has to be approved<br />

by the FTC (Federal Trade Commission).<br />

53.3% of the total home shopping turnover in 2009 was generated<br />

by internet sales.<br />

Market share: 12.9% in 2008<br />

Trend: Slightly decreasing (2006 = 13.5%)<br />

3.4.3.1.5 Super- and hypermarkets<br />

The main super- and hypermarkets selling clothing are: Metro,<br />

Aldi, Edeka, Tengelmann, Rewe, Lidl, Tchibo, and Globus. The<br />

clothing sold in those markets is mainly restricted to clothing<br />

accessories such as socks, caps, scarves and so on, but increasingly<br />

includes T-shirts, shirts, jeans etc. Aldi and Lidl in particular<br />

offer more and more fashion products alongside their food- and<br />

non-food assortment.<br />

Market share: 13.1% in 2008<br />

Trend: Slightly decreasing (2006 = 13.7%)<br />

3.4.3.1.6 Others (FOC)<br />

Factory Outlet Centres are becoming very popular in Germany.<br />

So far 11 FOCs have been built with a total surface of 120'000<br />

m2. Further 11 FOC's with a total surface of about 120'000 m2 will<br />

soon be built.<br />

3.4.3.2 Sales intermediaries<br />

3.4.3.2.1 Clothing manufacturers<br />

Manufacturing companies play a pivotal role in the clothing<br />

distribution system in Germany. Most of the German clothing<br />

brands work in a dual way: On the one hand they buy directly from<br />

developing countries in the Far and Middle East on a full import<br />

basis (finished products). On the other hand, Germany is by far<br />

the largest European buyer of clothing on outsourcing basis (OPT<br />

business). Due to its proximity to Eastern European countries,<br />

Germany was the ‘pioneer’ country in outsourcing production in<br />

the neighbouring countries to the East. The clothing industry has<br />

been shrinking since the beginning of the nineties, to the point<br />

where now only the ‘fittest’ have survived. Larger companies such<br />

as TOM TAILOR, CARLO COLUCCI, S. OLIVER, STREET ONE<br />

and so on (also) sell through their own outlets. These brands are<br />

normally positioned in the mid- to upper market segment. The<br />

tendency towards self-retailing by clothing brands/manufacturers<br />

has increased and taken on different forms such as concessions,<br />

shop-within- the-shop, sales corners in department stores and<br />

own mono-brand shops.<br />

3.4.3.2.2 Central buying associations<br />

55% of all independent clothing retailers in Germany are members<br />

of a buying association. These figures underline the significant role<br />

of buying associations for the majority of specialised independent<br />

retailers. The buying policy is similar to that of multiple stores (buying<br />

directly or through buying agents abroad). They operate in the<br />

mid- to upper market segment. The leading associations are Katag<br />

/ abz in Bielefeld and Unitex in Neu-Ulm. Some, such as Ardek<br />

in Hofheim / Wallau specialise in children's wear, or Intersport in<br />

Munich specialising in active sports- and hardware. The German<br />

buying associations also have members from the Netherlands,<br />

Belgium, Austria and <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />

3.4.3.2.3 Sales agents<br />

Sales agents for clothing in Germany play a major role in the<br />

market, especially for the renowned clothing brands. The more<br />

reputable agents are members of the Central Association of German<br />

Sales Agents (CDH) in Cologne. They often have their own<br />

showrooms in fashion centres of major German cities such as<br />

Neuss / Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Hamburg, Munich and so on. Only<br />

strong manufacturers from non- European countries with a market<br />

oriented range and an excellent service might find the right partner<br />

in the CDH News published monthly.<br />

3.4.3.2.4 Importers / wholesalers<br />

It is estimated that there are over 1'000 importers / wholesalers<br />

for clothing in Germany. They range from very small units run by<br />

the owner, up to larger companies with more than 100 employees<br />

worldwide such as Miles, Jebsen & Jessen, Nickel etc. They often<br />

operate through their buying offices in the Far East, which take<br />

over the order and control function on the ‘sourcing spot’. The<br />

importers / wholesalers have an important role, they have excellent<br />

know-how about worldwide sourcing and supply directly to all<br />

kinds of retailers in Germany and the neighbouring countries. The<br />

most reputable importers are members of the Association of nonfood<br />

importers (VFI) in Hamburg.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 45


3.5 German fashion trade fairs.<br />

For women's wear, the main event not only for Europe but also<br />

worldwide is the CPD Fashion Fair in Düsseldorf, which is organised<br />

twice per year (February and July) by the IGEDO company.<br />

Approximately 44'000 visitors and around 1'500 international<br />

exhibitors attend per event. The fair organisers have grouped the<br />

fair in different ‘theme worlds’ (Gallery, Italian Suite, Boutique,<br />

Concept II, Modern Essentials, Decorate, Special Luxury Women's<br />

Wear, Special Big is Beautiful). For manufacturers from emerging<br />

or developing countries the so called ‘Global Fashion’ (a fair within<br />

the fair) of the CPD in Düsseldorf is generally a good choice, since<br />

many buyers from Germany, Belgium, Luxemburg, Netherlands<br />

as well as to a certain extent from Austria and <strong>Switzerland</strong> tend<br />

to visit this fair when they look for new suppliers. Leading fashion<br />

fairs have suffered from the market developments. Nevertheless,<br />

for ‘mainstream’ fashion manufacturers from developing countries,<br />

the German clothing fairs are still a very good choice (from a commercial<br />

point of view). For the active sportswear market (including<br />

Table 35: German fashion trade fairs 2010<br />

Trade fair Date <strong>Location</strong><br />

Spirit of Fashion 20. - 22.01.2010 Berlin<br />

MMC Kids Collections Kinder Mode Messe 05. - 07.02.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig<br />

Premium Order Düsseldorf 06. - 09.02.2010 Düsseldorf<br />

ISPO Winter 07. - 10.02.2010 Munich<br />

CPD incl. Global Fashion 07. - 09.02.2010 Düsseldorf<br />

MMC Mitteldeutsche Mode Messe 13. - 15.02.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig<br />

MMC Fashion Update 07. - 09.03.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig<br />

Sport Source Europe 07. - 10.02.2010 Munich<br />

Premium Order München 26. - 01.03.2010 Munich<br />

Munich Fashion Women 26. - 01.03.2010 Munich<br />

In Fashion Munich 26. - 01.03.2010 Munich<br />

Modatex Fashion Fair 03. - 06.07.2010 Essen<br />

Bread and Butter 07. - 09.07.2010 Berlin<br />

MMC Fashion Start 11. - 13.07.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig<br />

CPD incl. Global Fashion 25. - 27.07.2010 Düsseldorf<br />

MMC Kids Collections 30. - 01.08.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig<br />

MMC Mitteldeutsche Mode Messe 07. - 09.08.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig<br />

MMC Fashion Update 05. - 07.09.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig<br />

Kind + Jugend, Internationale Kinder- und Jugend- Messe 16. - 19.09.2010 Köln<br />

Import Shop Berlin 10. - 14.11.2010 Berlin<br />

Imotex Open all year Neuss<br />

Source: AUMA<br />

46<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

footwear and sports equipment), which is partially covered by the<br />

products specified for this study, the ISPO Fair in Munich plays a<br />

leading role for Germany and Europe. Approximately 1'600 exhibitors<br />

from more than 40 countries show their products in February<br />

and July each year. There have been tremendous changes and<br />

challenges for the German textile and clothing fairs since 2000<br />

and this trend can be expected to continue in the next few years.<br />

The shift in the ‘classical’ menswear segment from Cologne to<br />

Düsseldorf was the initial factor. Some two years back many reputed<br />

jeans and sportswear brands moved to the ‘Bread and Butter’<br />

in Berlin. The fair organisers are permanently working on developing<br />

the fair structure and services: the idea being that the visitor<br />

should have the most efficient and convenient way to become<br />

informed about fashion trends and to buy the clothing they require.<br />

In most clothing segments, from a commercial point of view, the<br />

German fairs still have the leading position within Europe although<br />

some other fairs (particularly in Italy) have taken over the ‘fashion<br />

leadership’. Among German retailers, the fairs mentioned above<br />

are regarded as ‘information platform No. 1’ to a very large extent.


3.6 List of major buyers in Germany.<br />

Clothing chain stores<br />

Bonita Gefühl für Mode<br />

GmbH & Co. KG<br />

Kesseldorfer Rott 39<br />

D - 46499 Hamminkeln<br />

Tel.: +49 – 2852 – 9500<br />

Fax: +49 – 2852 – 950100<br />

info@bonita.de<br />

www.bonita.de<br />

E. Breuninger GmbH & Co.<br />

Marktstr. 1 – 3<br />

D - 70173 Stuttgart<br />

Tel.: +49 – 711 – 211-0<br />

Fax: +49 – 711 – 211-3053<br />

kontakt@breuninger.de<br />

www.breuninger.de<br />

C&A Mode KG<br />

Wanheimer Straße 70<br />

40468 Düsseldorf<br />

Tel.: +49 – 211 – 98720<br />

service@shop-CundA.de<br />

www.cunda.de<br />

Appelrath-Cüpper<br />

Zeppelinstrasse 2<br />

D - 50667 Köln<br />

Tel.: +49 – 221 – 20 59 90<br />

info@appelrath-cuepper.de<br />

www.appelrath-cuepper.de<br />

Pohland-Herrenkleidung<br />

GmbH & Co. KG<br />

Brückenstraße 17<br />

D - 50677 Köln<br />

Tel.: +49 – 221 – 270497 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 221 – 270497 – 39<br />

info@pohland.de<br />

www.pohland.de<br />

Product range:<br />

Women‘s wear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 732<br />

Product range:<br />

Women’s, men’s and<br />

children’s wear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Upper level<br />

Number of outlets: 10<br />

Product range:<br />

Women’s, men’s and<br />

children’ s wear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 303<br />

Product range:<br />

Women’s wear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Number of outlets: 14<br />

Note: belongs to Douglas<br />

Holding AG<br />

Product range: Men’s wear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Number of outlets: 18<br />

Note: belongs to Douglas<br />

Holding AG<br />

Esprit Europe GmbH<br />

Esprit-Allee<br />

D-40882 Ratingen<br />

Tel.: +49 – 2102 – 123 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 2102 – 123 – 45<br />

– 100<br />

info@esprit.com<br />

www.esprit.com<br />

Hettlage + Fischer GmbH<br />

Industriestraße 1<br />

D - 48644 Coesfeld-Lette<br />

Tel.: +49 – 2546 9345 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 2546 9345 – 79<br />

info@hettlage-fischer.com<br />

www.hettlage-fischer.de<br />

H&M Hennes & Mauritz<br />

GmbH<br />

Spitalerstrasse 12<br />

D - 20095 Hamburg<br />

Tel: +49 – 40 – 350 95 50<br />

www.hm.com<br />

Orsay GmbH<br />

Im Lossenfeld 12<br />

D - 77731 Willstätt-Sand<br />

Tel.: +49 – 7852 – 910 – 0<br />

Fax +49 – 7852 – 910 - 909<br />

info@orsay.com<br />

www.orsay.com<br />

Peek & Cloppenburg KG<br />

Berliner Allee 2<br />

D - 40212 Düsseldorf<br />

Tel.: +49 – 211 – 3662 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 211 – 3662 – 697<br />

dialog@peekundcloppenburg.<br />

de<br />

www.peekundcloppenburg.de<br />

http://b2b.peek-und-cloppenburg.de/<br />

Product range: Women’s,<br />

men’s and children’s wear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Upper level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

800 directly managed<br />

retail stores and over<br />

6,000 wholesale outlets<br />

worldwide<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies, men’s and<br />

children’s wear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Number of outlets: 2<br />

Product range: Women’s,<br />

men’s and<br />

children’s wear<br />

Price segment: Lower level<br />

Number of outlets: 339<br />

Product range: Women’s<br />

wear<br />

Price segment: Lower to<br />

mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 260<br />

Note: belongs to Mulliez<br />

Group<br />

Product range: Ladies<br />

men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Upper level<br />

Number of outlets: 26<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 47


Clothing chain stores<br />

48<br />

SinnLeffers AG<br />

Batheyer Str. 115 – 117<br />

D - 58099 Hagen<br />

Tel.: +49 – 2331 – 620 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 2331 – 620 – 100<br />

info@sinnleffers.de<br />

www.sinnleffers.de<br />

s.Oliver Bernd Freier GmbH<br />

& Co. KG<br />

s.Oliver Straße 1<br />

D - 97228 Rottendorf<br />

Tel.: +49 – 93 02 / 3 09 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 93 02 / 3 09 – 473<br />

info@soliver.de<br />

onlineshop@soliver.com<br />

www.soliver.de<br />

Takko Holding GmbH<br />

Alfred Krupp Str. 21<br />

D - 48291 Telgte<br />

Tel.: +49 – 2504 – 923 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 2504 – 923 – 277<br />

info@takko.de<br />

www.takko.de<br />

Tchibo GmbH<br />

Überseering 18<br />

D - 22297 Hamburg<br />

Tel.: +49 – 40 – 6387 – 2876<br />

Fax: +49 – 40 – 6387 – 2530<br />

info@tchibo.com<br />

www.tchibo.de<br />

Charles Vögele Deutschland<br />

GmbH<br />

Zeppelinstrasse 2-8<br />

72488 Sigmaringen<br />

Tel.: +49 – 7571 723 0<br />

Fax +49 – 7571 723 171<br />

kundendienst.de@charlesvoegele.com<br />

www.voegele-mode.de<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Number of outlets: 24<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Number of owned stores:<br />

155<br />

Number of stores with<br />

partners: 370<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s and<br />

Childrenswear<br />

(and Accessoires, Jewelry)<br />

Price segment: Lower level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

920 Germany<br />

(1’400 worldwide)<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Lower level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

over 1000<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 352<br />

Wehmeyer Lifestyle GmbH<br />

Rotter Bruch 17<br />

D - 52068 Aachen<br />

Tel.: +49 – 2 41 / 51 97 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 241 51 97 107<br />

www.wehmeyer.com<br />

www.w-lifestyle.de<br />

kundenbetreuung@<br />

wehmeyer.com<br />

Rudolf Wöhrl AG<br />

Lina-Amman-Str. 10<br />

D - 90471 Nürnberg<br />

Tel.: +49 – 911 – 8121 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 911 – 8121 – 100<br />

info@woehrl.de<br />

www.woehrl.de<br />

Department stores (selection)<br />

Zara<br />

Moenckebergstrasse, 10<br />

D - 20095 Hamburg<br />

Tel.: +49 – 40 3 030 97 28<br />

Fax: +49 – 40 30 96 22 40<br />

www.zara.de<br />

Deutsche Woolworth GmbH<br />

Lyoner Str. 52<br />

D - 60528 Frankfurt a.M.<br />

Tel.: +49 – 69 – 6601 – 1<br />

Fax +49 – 69 – 6601 – 2399<br />

info@woolworth.de<br />

www.woolworth.de<br />

Metro AG<br />

Schlüterstraße 1<br />

D - 40235 Düsseldorf<br />

Tel.: +49 211 6886 10 51 or<br />

19 36<br />

Fax: +49 211 6886 37 59<br />

kontakt@metro.de<br />

www.metro-ag.de<br />

www.metrogroup.de<br />

www.investorrelations@metro.de<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’ and menswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 44<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Upper level<br />

(brands mainly)<br />

Number of outlets: 40<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’ and<br />

menswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 30<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

161 in Germany<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s,<br />

childrenswear and<br />

sportswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

Real/Extra 560,<br />

Kaufhof 141 in Germany


Department stores (selection)<br />

Kaufhof Warenhaus AG<br />

Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1<br />

D - 50676 Köln<br />

Tel.: +49 02 21 223 55 95<br />

Fax: +49 02 21 223 55 99<br />

www.galeria-kaufhof.de<br />

Callcenter Tel:<br />

+49 01805 17 25 17<br />

Callcenter Fax:<br />

+49 01805 17 35 17<br />

service@galeria-kaufhof.de<br />

Strauss Innovation GmbH &<br />

Co. KG<br />

Raiffeisenstr. 15-18<br />

D - 40764 Langenfeld<br />

Tel.: +49 - 2173 - 99 00 01<br />

Fax +49 - 2173 - 99 23 90<br />

fragenundantworten@<br />

strauss-innovation.de<br />

gutesundschlechtes@<br />

strauss-innovation.de<br />

www.strauss-innovation.de<br />

Wal-Mart Germany GmbH &<br />

Co. KG<br />

Friedrich-Engels-Allee 28<br />

D-42103 Wuppertal<br />

Tel: +49 – 202 – 2829 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 202 – 2829 – 1724<br />

kontakt@wal-mart.com<br />

www.walmart.de<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Number of outlets: 127<br />

Note: Belongs to Metro AG<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’ and menswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 93<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s, childrenswear<br />

and sportswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower level (for clothing)<br />

Number of outlets: 88<br />

Clothing manufacturers (importing)<br />

and wholesalers / importers<br />

Heinrich Nickel Gmbh &<br />

Co.Kg<br />

Wilhelm-Bergner-Str. 10<br />

D - 21509 Glinde<br />

Tel.: +49(0)40 7270 241<br />

Fax: +49(0)40 7270 224<br />

www.nickel-sportswear.com<br />

office@nickel-sportswear.com<br />

APRIORI Textilvertriebs<br />

GmbH<br />

Harkortstr. 24<br />

D - 48163 Münster<br />

Tel.: +49 (0)251 7135-0<br />

Fax: +49 (0)251 7135-837<br />

dialog@apriori-fashion.de<br />

www.apriori-fashion.de<br />

ara Shoes AG<br />

Zur Schlenkhecke 4<br />

D – 40764 Langenfeld<br />

Tel.: +49 – 2173 105 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 2173 105 108<br />

www.ara-moden.de<br />

info@ara-shoes.de<br />

Bay City Textilhandels &<br />

Co.KG<br />

An‘n Slagboom 7<br />

Postfach 3165<br />

D-22848 Norderstedt<br />

Tel.: +49 (40) 534 13 300<br />

Fax: +49 (40) 534 13 301<br />

baycity@fashioncenter.net<br />

www.fashioncenter.net/<br />

baycity<br />

www.bay-city.de<br />

F.W. Brinkmann GmbH<br />

Waltgeristraße 1-5<br />

32049 Herford<br />

Tel: +49 (0) 52 21 / 88 40<br />

Fax: +49 (0) 52 21 / 88 42 81<br />

info@bugatti.de<br />

www.bugatti.de<br />

Importer of men’s, ladies<br />

and<br />

children’s sportswear<br />

Wholesaler of ladies wear<br />

Number of owned stores:<br />

125<br />

Belongs 100% to:<br />

PRIMERA GmbH & Co.<br />

Manufacturer of classic<br />

women and men shoes<br />

Over 500 shops worldwide,<br />

in 2008 sold 7 mn. Shoes<br />

in over 50 countries<br />

(CMT business mainly)<br />

Importer for jeans, casual<br />

and active sportswear<br />

founded: 1975 and belongs<br />

to Schmid Gruppe<br />

License Contract with<br />

Unilever (Lable: Langnese)<br />

Manufacturer of classic<br />

men’s and<br />

sportswear (mainly CMT<br />

business –<br />

brand orientated)<br />

Forecast: 150 new shops<br />

to be open (average / year:<br />

15 shops)<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 49


Clothing manufacturers (importing)<br />

and wholesalers / importers Mail order companies<br />

50<br />

Bültel Bekleidungswerke<br />

GmbH<br />

Rheiner Str. 28<br />

D - 48499 Salzbergen<br />

Tel.: +49 – 5976 – 270<br />

Fax: +49 – 5976 – 27410<br />

www.bueltel.com<br />

info@bueltel.com<br />

elho <strong>Business</strong> & Sport Vertriebs<br />

GmbH<br />

Bronkhorstr. 56 / 2. Etage<br />

D – 47137 Duisburg<br />

Tel.: +49 – 89 – 42091 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 89 – 42091 – 213<br />

www.elho.de<br />

otto.schwarz@elho.de<br />

Frontline GmbH<br />

Hinüberstraße 4A<br />

30175 Hannover<br />

Tel.: +49 – 4105 – 6105 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 4105 – 6105 – 64<br />

www.frontline.de<br />

Gardeur GmbH<br />

Alsstraße 155<br />

D - 41063 Mönchengladbach<br />

Tel.: +49 – 2161 – 816 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 2161 – 183833<br />

www.gardeur.com<br />

info@gardeur.de<br />

Hucke AG<br />

Ravensberger Str. 41<br />

D - 32312 Lübbecke<br />

Tel.: +49 – 5741 – 364 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 5741 – 364 – 414<br />

www.hucke.de<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Manufacturer of men’s<br />

sportswear<br />

Founded: 1964<br />

Manufacturer of active and<br />

casual<br />

sportswear (full import and<br />

CMT)<br />

Distributor of garments of<br />

all kinds<br />

Manufacturer of classic<br />

ladies’ and menswear<br />

specialised in trousers<br />

(CMT business – brand<br />

oriented)<br />

Gardeur GmbH, founded<br />

in 1920, has recently been<br />

acquired by HSH Private<br />

Equity (Hamburg)<br />

Multi Brand manufacturer<br />

of ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear (full import<br />

and CMT)<br />

Hucke Fashion GmbH,<br />

Königsmühle u. R. Overmeyer<br />

Bekleidungs GmbH<br />

Alba Moda Gmbh<br />

Daimlerstr. 13<br />

D - 32108 Bad Salzuflen<br />

Tel.: +49 – (0) 180 540 55<br />

Fax: +49 – (0) 180 540 59 99<br />

www.albaModa.de<br />

Baur Versand (GmbH & Co.<br />

KG)<br />

Bahnhofstraße 10<br />

96224 Burgkunstadt<br />

Tel.: +49 – 0 95 72 - 91 0<br />

www.baur.de<br />

service@baur.de<br />

Bruno Bader Gmbh + Co Kg<br />

Maximilianstraße 48<br />

D - 75172 Pforzheim<br />

Tel.: +49 – 180 – 5 222 111<br />

Fax: +49 – 180 – 5 222 777<br />

www.bader.de<br />

service@bader.de<br />

Cyrillus Deutschland Gmbh<br />

Sonneaue 69<br />

D - 47804 Krefeld<br />

Tel.: +49 – 180 5 095 095<br />

Fax: +49 – 180 5 000 955<br />

www.cyrillus.de<br />

mailbox2@cyrillus.com<br />

Heinrich Heine Gmbh<br />

Windeckstr. 15<br />

D - 76135 Karlsruhe<br />

Tel.: +49 – (0) 180 – 536 36<br />

Fax: +49 – (0) 180 - 5 524 524<br />

Tel. Kundenbetreuung:<br />

+49 (0) 180 - 522 66<br />

www.heine.de<br />

service@heine.de<br />

Versandhaus Robert Klingel<br />

Sachsenstr. 23<br />

D - 75177 Pforzheim<br />

Tel.: +49 – 0180 53 200<br />

Fax:+49 – 0180 530 56 70<br />

www.klingel.de<br />

service@klingel.de<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’ and menswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Note: Fashion orientated<br />

(not young fashion)<br />

Product range: All kinds<br />

of goods, ladies’, men’s,<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid market level<br />

Note: one of the larger<br />

mail-order companies<br />

Product range: All kinds<br />

of goods, ladies’, men’s,<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid market level<br />

Note: one of the larger<br />

mail-order companies<br />

Product range: Ladies’,<br />

men’s, childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Mid level<br />

Note: Niche market<br />

mail-order house<br />

Products:<br />

Home textiles, furniture,<br />

accessories, ladies’,<br />

menswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Note: more classic styles<br />

Product range: All kinds of<br />

goods, ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Mid level


Mail order companies<br />

Neckermann Versand AG<br />

Hanauer Landstraße 360<br />

D - 60386 Frankfurt am Main<br />

Tel.: +49 – 180 55414<br />

www.neckermann.de<br />

service@neckermann.de<br />

Otto (GmbH & Co KG)<br />

Wandsbeker Straße 3-7<br />

D - 22172 Hamburg<br />

OTTO-Hotline: 0180 - 5 30<br />

30Hotline: +49 (0) 180 530 30<br />

Tel.: +49 40 - 64 61 - 0<br />

Fax: +49 40 - 64 61 - 85 71OT-<br />

TO-Hotline: 0180 - 5 30 30<br />

www.otto.de<br />

service@otto.de<br />

Sport Scheck GmbH<br />

Sendlinger Str. 6<br />

D - 80331 München<br />

Tel: +49 89 2166-0<br />

Fax: +49 89 2166-1420<br />

Tel. Kundenbetreuung:<br />

Tel.: +49 – 180 55050*<br />

Fax: +49 – 180 55051*<br />

www.sportscheck.com<br />

filiale_muenchen@sportscheck.com<br />

Jeans-, sportswear and young fashion<br />

Western Store Beran<br />

Mister-Lady GmbH<br />

Sprottauer Str. 4 – 8<br />

D - 90475 Nürnberg<br />

Tel.: +49 – 911 – 984 760<br />

Fax: +49 – 911 – 984 73 04<br />

www.wsberan.de<br />

Diesel Deutschland Gmbh<br />

Kasernenstr. 1<br />

D - 40213 Düsseldorf<br />

Tel.: +49 211 8622 966<br />

www.diesel.com<br />

Product range: All kinds<br />

of goods, ladies’, men’s,<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid market level<br />

Note: one of the larger<br />

mail-order companies<br />

Product range: Ladies’,<br />

men’s and hildrenswear<br />

and other goods<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid level<br />

Note: Largest mail order<br />

house in the orld selling<br />

worldwide<br />

Product range: All kinds of<br />

goods, women’s and<br />

children’ wear, sportswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Product range: Jeans and<br />

sportswear, young fashion<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 200<br />

Product range:<br />

Jeans, young fashion<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Number of outlets: 11<br />

Jeans Palast Görgens<br />

GmbH<br />

Schildergasse 55<br />

D - 50667 Köln<br />

Tel.: +49 221 – 257 86 49<br />

Fax: +49 221 – 258 85 51<br />

jeans-palast-koeln@goergensgruppe.dehttp://filialnetz.guna.de/filialnetz/koeln/jeanspalast/<br />

Jeans Fritz<br />

Handelsgesellschaft für<br />

Mode mbH<br />

Tengerner Straße 143<br />

D - 32609 Hüllhorst<br />

Tel.: +49 (0) 5744 512 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 (0) 5744 512 – 111<br />

www.jeans-fritz.de<br />

New Yorker S.H.K Jeans<br />

GmbH<br />

Hansestraße 48<br />

D - 38112 Braunschweig<br />

Tel.: +49 – 531 – 2135 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 531 – 2135 – 187<br />

www.newyorker.de<br />

smattern@newyorker.de<br />

(Produktanfragen & Expansion)<br />

HIS TEXTIL GmbH<br />

Bellevue 7<br />

D - 22301<br />

Tel.: +49 – 89 – 329070<br />

Fax: +49 – 89 – 32907108<br />

www.his-jeans.de<br />

www.info@his-jeans.com<br />

MUSTANG Jeans GmbH &<br />

Co.KG<br />

P.O. Box 1264<br />

D – 74642 Künzelsau<br />

Tel.: +49 – 7940 – 125 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 7940 – 125 – 102<br />

www.mustang.de<br />

info@mustang.de<br />

Product range:<br />

Jeans, young fashion<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Number of outlets: 53<br />

Product range:<br />

Jeans, leisurewear<br />

Price segment: Mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 237<br />

Product range:<br />

Price segment: Mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 298<br />

Product range: Jeans<br />

Price segment :<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Note: Manufacturer +<br />

clothing chain<br />

Product range:<br />

Jeans and sportswear<br />

Price segment :<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Note: Manufacturer +<br />

clothing chain<br />

Number of outlets: 970<br />

(an present in over 31<br />

countries worldwide)<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 51


Buying associations<br />

52<br />

ARDEK eG (proBABY c/o)<br />

Robert Bosch Str. 9<br />

D - 65719 Hofheim-Wallau<br />

Tel.: +49 – 6122 – 72 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 6122 – 72338<br />

www.ardek.de<br />

info@ardek.de<br />

www.probaby.de<br />

info@probaby.de<br />

INTERSPORT Deutschland eG<br />

Wannenäckerstr. 50<br />

D - 74078 Heilbronn<br />

Tel.: +49 – 7131 – 288 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 7131 – 21257<br />

www.intersport.com<br />

contact@intersport.com<br />

KATAG AG<br />

Stralsunder Str. 5<br />

D - 33605 Bielefeld<br />

Tel.: +49 – 521 – 292 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 521 – 292 – 101<br />

www katag.net<br />

www.info@katag.de<br />

Kurtenbach Gbmh & Co. Kg<br />

Offheimer Weg 45<br />

D - 65549 Limburg<br />

Tel.: +49 – 6431 – 503 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 6431 – 503 – 201<br />

www.mut-kurtenbach.de<br />

Geschäftsleitung@Kurtenbach.de<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Product range: Products<br />

for children, childrenswear,<br />

pro-BABY-Line /<br />

Products for babies (100<br />

Member companies)<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Member companies:<br />

over than 500<br />

Product range:<br />

(Active) sportswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Member companies:<br />

1,450<br />

Note: Market leader for<br />

active sportswear<br />

Product range:<br />

Men’s, ladies’ and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Member companies:<br />

1’200<br />

Product range:<br />

All kinds of garments<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower level<br />

Member companies:<br />

2000


4. Italy.<br />

4.1 General economic situation.<br />

Italy’s current population is 60 million; the country has developed<br />

to an economic level similar to that of countries such as Germany,<br />

France or United Kingdom. Before 1945, Italy was quite rural and<br />

today the country is still characterised by an agricultural South<br />

with an unemployment rate of 13.2% and a few big state-owned<br />

companies. On the other hand, the ‘rich’ North has a favourable<br />

economic climate and many successful private companies.<br />

In 2009 Italy faced a difficult period with a GDP real growth rate<br />

of -4.5%. The economy was in a sharp recession, mainly because<br />

of external developments linked to the global financial crisis, and<br />

there was great uncertainty about the strength and timing of the<br />

recovery. Italian exports plummeted 26% in 2008, the largest drop<br />

since records began in 1991. Despite a relatively healthy banking<br />

system Italy seems particularly sensitive to both the credit tightening<br />

which has occurred in line with that in other countries and the<br />

weakness in external demand. This sensitivity has probably been<br />

accentuated both by the poor productivity and aggregate profitability<br />

performance of the economy over the past decade or more,<br />

and by the weak underlying fiscal situation. An array of budget<br />

neutral measures have been taken in the short term, but economic<br />

performance must be enhanced over the longer term by both macroeconomic<br />

and structural policy reforms.<br />

4.2 The market for outerwear.<br />

4.2.1 Market size<br />

Italy is the third largest clothing market in Europe, behind Germany<br />

and the UK, and therefore plays a major role in the European<br />

fashion business. The market size for outerwear stands at € 40.9<br />

billion.<br />

4.2.2 Market characteristics<br />

The Italian clothing market has traditionally been mainly supplied<br />

by a strong national apparel industry, comprised primarily of family<br />

owned production companies. These small to medium size companies<br />

are flexible and often highly specialised in specific products.<br />

They are able to react quickly to market needs. The strong<br />

community within these companies allows the Italian companies to<br />

produce higher quality goods and to be more effective. About 90%<br />

of the small firms are geographically concentrated and often build<br />

so-called ‘conzorzii’, e.g. for export group marketing activities.<br />

The problems in Italian fashion business are also due to its own<br />

structure. Therefore many companies have begun or are planning<br />

to embark on restructuring processes. Nonetheless, the Italian<br />

clothing industry is one of the most competitive within Western<br />

Europe and imports of outerwear encounter difficulties in finding<br />

suitable market access. The Italian clothing industry itself is highly<br />

export oriented and plays an important role in the economic situation<br />

of the whole country.<br />

500'000 workers directly depend on the Italian clothing industry.<br />

Italy is a leading country for clothing (and textiles) worldwide.<br />

Clothing exports are double the imports. Italian consumers are<br />

very much brand oriented, but also are looking for items which<br />

offer value for money. In recent years, the consumers have also<br />

become more price oriented and are known for their high demands<br />

regarding quality. Because of the high specialisation of the<br />

Italian producers and their offer of very sophisticated collections,<br />

manufacturers from abroad should avoid copying Italian outerwear.<br />

Cheaper and lighter clothing is more often sold in the South of<br />

Italy, where the climate is warmer and there is less income per<br />

capita. There is more expenditure on clothing in the richer North<br />

than in the South, although more people live in the South of Italy.<br />

4.2.3 Demographic characteristics<br />

Italy is known as a family loving country where children and mothers<br />

play an important role in society. Less known is the fact that<br />

the formerly high birth rates in Italy have dramatically dropped<br />

since the beginning of records in 1952 from 2.33 living birth per<br />

women to 1.41 in 2008. The lowest birth-rate was recorded in<br />

1995 with 1.18 living birth per women. Since then, birth-rate went<br />

constantly up again. The Italian population grew constantly from<br />

1952 to 2009 with a CAGR of 0.4% per year.<br />

The most numerous group in the population are the 35 – 39 and<br />

40 - 44 age groups, with a total of about 5 million inhabitants.<br />

Compared to this age group, there is nearly half of that number in<br />

the lowest age group, that is, the newborn – 4 year old segment<br />

(2.5 million persons). Figure 4 shows further details.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 53


The consequence of the low birth-rate is not only that less children's<br />

wear is sold, but major changes are required on the production<br />

side. Since clothing production in Italy has a tradition of small<br />

family owned companies, there are negative effects due to smaller<br />

family sizes. The owners are no longer able to run the company<br />

with fewer family members.<br />

Figure 4: Age structure of Italian population by gender, 2008<br />

Source: U.S. Census Bureau, International Data Base<br />

54<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

10 0 +<br />

9 5 - 9 9<br />

9 0 - 9 4<br />

8 5 - 9 0<br />

8 0 - 8 5<br />

75 -79<br />

70 -74<br />

6 5 - 6 9<br />

6 0 - 6 4<br />

5 5 - 59<br />

50 - 5 4<br />

4 5 - 49<br />

4 0 - 4 4<br />

3 5 - 3 9<br />

3 0 - 3 4<br />

25 -29<br />

20 -24<br />

15 -19<br />

10 -14<br />

5 - 9<br />

0 - 4<br />

Population in millions<br />

Another possible consequence is that parents often cannot find<br />

a successor for their clothing business. Since these small family<br />

companies are flexible, highly service oriented and dominating<br />

the independent shops, the whole clothing distribution in Italy is<br />

affected.<br />

male female<br />

2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5<br />

4.2.4 Retail sales by product category<br />

The shares of the different apparel segments (styles) of formal<br />

and casual clothing, leisurewear and active sportswear in Italy are<br />

similarly structured to the more traditional oriented British clothing<br />

market. Table 36 shows the dominant role in sales of formal<br />

clothing: 40% of men's wear sold in Italy is formal wear as is 38%<br />

of women's wear. Compared to other European countries, the<br />

share of formal wear is very high.<br />

Casual wear has a market share of 34% for men's wear and 37%<br />

for women's wear and is a preferred product category of the Italian<br />

consumer, as in all other Western European countries. However,<br />

casual wear as the Italians understand it has a very sophisticated<br />

touch with high quality fabrics and basic but elegant designs in<br />

comparison to the Northern European markets.<br />

Basic leisure wear is less important in Italy and only represents<br />

18% (men's wear) and 18% (women's wear) of the total clothing<br />

market.<br />

Table 36: Share of outerwear by gender, 2004 and 2008<br />

Women Men Children<br />

2004 2008 2004 2008 2004 2008<br />

Formal 40% 38% 41% 40% 17% 16%<br />

Casual 35% 37% 33% 34% 70% 71%<br />

Leisure 19% 18% 19% 18% n.a. n.a.<br />

Active<br />

sports<br />

6% 7% 7% 8% 13% 13%<br />

Total 100% 100% 100% 100% 100% 100%<br />

Source: Analysis based on Eurostat and Euromonitor


4.2.5 Consumer behaviour<br />

4.2.5.1 Consumer preferences<br />

Table 37 shows the development of the preferred types of retail<br />

channels for clothing from 2004 to 2008. The table indicates that<br />

Italian consumers mainly prefer to buy clothing in independent<br />

shops. This retail sector still accounts for half of the total Italian<br />

clothing retail market. The main reasons why Italian consumers<br />

prefer independent retailers is that these shops are somehow<br />

‘closer to the consumer’. Furthermore, these boutique-like shops<br />

offer personal contact and mores service. The formerly very strong<br />

market position of independent retailers has been weakened, but<br />

is still clearly dominating the buying decisions of the consumers.<br />

The high share of clothing consumption through independent<br />

shops expresses the desire for service and quality. A graphic<br />

illustration of the 2008 situation is given in chapter 4.4.3.1 ‘Retailers’.<br />

Generally speaking, the Italian consumer is extremely quality and<br />

fashion conscious, but very hesitant and looks only for products<br />

which he or she is really convinced of.<br />

The fact, that Italians are more and more price oriented as<br />

consumers can be derived from the increasing role of hyper- and<br />

supermarkets in the Italian retail market, where men’s and children's<br />

wear in particular is bought. At the same time, consumers<br />

have a high brand awareness. This is particularly evident in the<br />

segment of children’s clothing. Many children love to have clothing<br />

with pictures of current trends for kids on it.<br />

Table 37: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]<br />

2004 2006 2008<br />

Specialists 69 68 67<br />

Independent retailers 51 49 48<br />

Clothing multiples 18 19 19<br />

Non-specialists 31 32 33<br />

Department/variety stores 10 10 10<br />

Home shopping companies 0 1 1<br />

Hyper- and supermarkets 9 10 10<br />

Sports stores 4 4 5<br />

Other 8 7 7<br />

Total 100 100 100<br />

Source: CBI<br />

4.2.5.2 Consumer expenditure<br />

Italy, in terms of consumption volume of clothing, belongs to the<br />

top four countries within Europe together with France, the UK and<br />

Germany. The consumption of clothing will, according to most<br />

recent estimates, account for € 44 billion in 2009. Over the last<br />

few years, spending on clothing in Italy was fluctuating around €<br />

46 billion. As mentioned at the beginning of the Italian chapter, the<br />

economy was badly hit by the financial crisis. This is also reflected<br />

in the drop by -5.3% in total clothing consumption from 2008 to<br />

2009. More details may be found in table 38.<br />

It is notable that Italian women do not buy that much more clothing<br />

than men. In other European countries like UK or <strong>Switzerland</strong>,<br />

women’s expenditure for clothing is nearly double that of men.<br />

In Italy, women only spend around 50-55% more on clothing<br />

compared to men. This means that in Italy the market segment for<br />

men's wear is more important than in the other countries analysed<br />

in this survey<br />

Table 38: Consumption of clothing in Italy<br />

2004 2006 2008 2009*<br />

Total clothing [€ billion] 45.3 45.7 46.5 44<br />

Change [%] - 0.9% 1.8% -5.4%<br />

Source: CBI – Note:*forecast<br />

As table 39 indicates, the total expenditures in the North and in the<br />

South of Italy are different. The disposable income in the North is<br />

much higher than in the South. The Italian Statistical Office (ISTAT)<br />

indicates an average household expenditure in 2006 of € 2'860 for<br />

the North and only € 2'010 for the South of Italy.<br />

It is not possible to make a distinction between clothing and<br />

footwear consumption on the basis of ISTAT figures. The figures<br />

indicate that the consumption of clothing/footwear in 2006 in Italy<br />

accounts for 6.4% of total household consumption (Basis: middle<br />

income household).<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 55


Although expenditure in the South in total is lower - due to less North and Central part of Italy, where the import and distribution<br />

disposable income - the share of expenditure for clothing (and structures are much better developed. Nevertheless, the South,<br />

footwear) is at 7.7% and higher than the Italian average. Generally due to lower income, has a higher demand for ‘basic clothing<br />

speaking, the more attractive areas for clothing sales are in the items’ (e.g. cotton products like cotton casual shirts and trousers,<br />

T-shirts, knitwear).<br />

Table 39: Comparison of household expenditure on selected categories by region, 2002 - 2006<br />

56<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

2002 2003 2004 2005 2006<br />

Monthly expenditure per household €<br />

North Italy 2’413.89 2’572.14 2’699.75 2’726.62 2’859.61<br />

Central Italy 2’347.88 2’466.15 2’391.75 2’478.17 2’494.53<br />

South Italy 1’786.56 1’906.64 1’971.31 1’970.76 2’009.21<br />

Italy 2’194.23 2’313.00 2’381.07 2’397.54 2’460.80<br />

Spending categories<br />

Clothing / footwear<br />

Percentage distribution<br />

North Italy 6.3% 6.0% 6.2% 5.6% 5.5%<br />

Central Italy 6.4% 6.5% 6.4% 6.2% 6.10%<br />

South Italy 7.9% 7.7% 7.7% 7.9% 7.7%<br />

Italy<br />

Housing<br />

6.8% 6.7% 6.6% 6.3% 6.4%<br />

North Italy 25.7% 26.4% 26.1% 26.6% 27.2%<br />

Central Italy 26.5% 27.6% 27.6% 28.9% 28.8%<br />

South Italy 21.4% 20.7% 21.7% 22.0% 23.0%<br />

Italy<br />

Fuel and electric power<br />

24.7% 24.9% 25.5% 25.8% 26.0%<br />

North Italy 5.2% 5.1% 5.0% 5.1% 5.3%<br />

Central Italy 4.5% 4.6% 4.7% 5.0% 4.9%<br />

South Italy 4.4% 4.5% 4.4% 4.7% 4.8%<br />

Italy<br />

Food and drinks<br />

4.7% 4.7% 4.7% 4.9% 5.0%<br />

North Italy 16.1% 16.6% 15.9% 15.8% 15.4%<br />

Central Italy 18.8% 19.0% 19.0% 18.8% 19.0%<br />

South Italy 24.3% 24.3% 23.8% 23.6% 24.2%<br />

Italy 19.4% 19.5% 19.0% 19.0% 19.0%<br />

Furniture, appliances and household services<br />

North Italy 6.4% 6.1% 6.1% 5.9% 6.2%<br />

Central Italy 6.8% 6.1% 5.6% 5.7% 5.6%<br />

South Italy 6.8% 7.2% 7.2% 7.1% 6.4%<br />

Italy 6.4% 6.2% 6.3% 6.1% 5.9%<br />

Source: Analysis based on ISTAT


4.2.6 Price developments of clothing<br />

Table 40 indicates the clothing (and footwear) price index compared<br />

with the general consumer price index in Italy from 2003 to<br />

2006.<br />

The clothing price index CAGR from 2003 to 2006 was with 1.7%<br />

smaller than the CAGR of the general consumer price index with<br />

2.1%.<br />

Table 40: Comparison of household expenditure on selected<br />

categories by region, 2002 - 2006<br />

2003 2004 2005 2006<br />

General consumer<br />

price index<br />

Clothing and footwear<br />

122 124.7 127.1 129.8<br />

price index 124.4 127.2 129.2 130.9<br />

Source: Analysis based on ISTAT – Note: 1995 = 100.0<br />

4.3 Imports.<br />

4.3.1 Total imports<br />

Total Italian imports of outerwear in 2008 amounted to € 9.8 billion.<br />

The CAGR was 1% from 2006 to 2008. Like elsewhere in Europe,<br />

extra EU imports increased in the same period with a higher pace.<br />

In the case of Italy extra EU imports grew with a CAGR of 1.7%<br />

from 2006 to 2008, amounting to an end value of € 6 billion. This<br />

shows that developing and emerging countries also are increasing<br />

their market share of outerwear clothing in Italy.<br />

In addition, imports of the different outerwear segments covered by<br />

this study showed a strong upswing from 2004 to 2008. Specially<br />

the import increase by 36% of knitted women's outerwear (table<br />

41) is remarkable.<br />

In the same period, the imports of men’s and boys outerwear only<br />

grew by 25% in value terms. Category 61.03 (suits, jackets, outfits,<br />

trousers, shorts etc.) only grew by 0.6%, this may be the result of a<br />

very strong national menswear industry which is able to successfully<br />

compete against foreign producers.<br />

In 2008 the total extra EU imports value amounted to 59% of the<br />

knitted outerwear clothing import and grew by 11.7% from 2006 to<br />

2008 in value terms. In the same period total import value grew by<br />

11.8%.<br />

Table 41: Imports of knitted outerwear by gender and product<br />

categories, 2006-2008<br />

2006 2007 2008<br />

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />

For men or boys<br />

Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.01) 1’985 37’941 1’700 40’136 1’664 46’794<br />

Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts<br />

etc. (61.03)<br />

11’705 142’297 8’983 158’408 7’705 143’124<br />

Shirts (61.05) 8’380 188’298 10’106 238’978 10’627 268’854<br />

Sub Total 22’070 368’537 20’789 437’522 19’996 458’772<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

For women or girls<br />

20’354 230’137 20’789 259’256 19’996 271’069<br />

Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.02) 1’952 51’031 1’111 49’446 1’173 53’333<br />

Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, dresses,<br />

skirts etc. (61.04)<br />

23’438 230’638 12’937 311’990 10’395 341’770<br />

Blouses and shirts (61.06) 3’034 123’473 2’847 153’877 3’550 156’020<br />

Sub Total 28’425 405’142 16’894 515’312 15’118 551’123<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 27’176 213’334 16’894 245’899 15’118 290’946<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 57


For both genders<br />

T-shirts, singlets etc. (61.09) 53’351 1’110’158 48’380 1’177’639 47’096 1’130’123<br />

Jersey, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats,<br />

etc. (61.10)<br />

57’994 1’420’391 40’768 1’430’229 45’963 1’504’714<br />

Babies’ garments (61.11) 18’456 208’375 13’866 224’805 12’179 223’436<br />

Garments rubberised, impregnated,<br />

etc. (61.13)<br />

889 11’772 638 11’273 526 9’394<br />

Gloves, mittens and mitts (61.16) 5’241 65’357 5’262 64’557 5’696 68’806<br />

Other made-up clothing accessories<br />

(61.17)<br />

4’559 50’923 2’738 40’364 2’805 45’076<br />

Sub Total 140’489 2’866’976 111’651 2’948’867 114’265 2’981’551<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

Active Sportswear<br />

124’026 1’774’804 107’453 1’799’282 110’165 1’940’600<br />

Track suits, ski suits and swimwear<br />

(61.12)<br />

18’065 232’051 14’406 229’937 12’357 248’433<br />

Special garments for professional<br />

sporting or other purposes (61.14)<br />

8’767 239’645 11’236 300’967 19’379 358’683<br />

Sub Total 26’832 471’696 25’642 530’904 31’736 607’116<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 22’469 203’844 18’059 196’059 14’916 201’923<br />

TOTAL 217’816 4’112’351 174’976 4’432’606 181’116 4’598’561<br />

TOTAL EXTRA EU 194’025 2’422’120 163’195 2’500’496 160’195 2’704’537<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

Table 42 shows the import figures of woven outerwear into Italy<br />

from 2006 to 2008. An interesting fact is that imports of woven<br />

men's wear dropped by -5.2% from 2006 to 2008. Total women's<br />

woven outerwear imports grew by 1.4% in the same time period.<br />

The Extra EU import share grew in both cases by 4.6% and 8.8%<br />

respectively.<br />

In 2008, imports of woven men's wear into Italy amounted to € 1.5<br />

billion and imports of woven women's wear in 2008 represent €<br />

2.2 billion. It must be mentioned that imports of woven men's wear<br />

where much higher in 2004 with € 2 billion and woven women's<br />

wear reached only € 1.6 billion.<br />

Imports of all woven outerwear categories for men decreased from<br />

2006 to 2008. Especially category 62.10 (coats, anoraks, windcheaters,<br />

etc.) decreased by -11.3%. In the same period women's<br />

woven outerwear imports of the same category increased by<br />

4.1%.<br />

58<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Total woven outerwear imports decreased by 2% to € 5.2 billion<br />

from 2006 to 2008. In the same period the share of extra EU<br />

imports increased by 5.7% to 63%. This corresponds to a value of<br />

€ 3.3 billion.


Table 42: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008<br />

For men or boys<br />

2006 2007 2008<br />

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />

Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc.<br />

(62.01)<br />

31’959 582’666 24’359 531’266 19’594 516’676<br />

Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts,<br />

etc. (62.03)<br />

69’278 1’397’554 55’871 1’371’590 51’872 1’353’472<br />

Shirts (62.05) 20’572 432’402 16’169 426’841 13’668 417’779<br />

Sub Total 121’809 2’412’622 96’399 2’329’697 85’134 2’287’927<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

For women or girls<br />

105’477 1’494’501 96’399 1’504’279 85’134 1’482’408<br />

Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc.<br />

(62.02)<br />

29’856 569’159 21’559 566’107 17’262 592’285<br />

Suits, jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers,<br />

etc (62.04)<br />

53’923 1’384’183 35’749 1’387’445 32’927 1’363’832<br />

Blouses and shirts (62.06) 6’104 226’542 3’960 239’971 4’148 254’720<br />

Sub Total 89’883 2’179’884 61’268 2’193’522 54’337 2’210’837<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

For both genders<br />

79’076 1’248’820 61’268 1’295’412 54’337 1’377’740<br />

Babies garments (62.09) 5’536 100’626 5’787 115’223 4’884 103’930<br />

Others incl. Impregnated (62.10) 11’204 151’082 12’564 159’876 11’718 148’690<br />

Shawls, scarves, mufflers, etc. (62.14) 4’158 77’304 2’316 65’719 2’643 79’964<br />

Ties, bow ties and cravats (62.15) 982 35’281 928 27’748 783 26’598<br />

Gloves, mittens and mitts (62.16) 1’337 27’523 998 20’054 861 18’585<br />

Other made-up clothing accessories<br />

(62.17)<br />

3’074 54’024 2’632 51’332 2’303 51’328<br />

Sub Total 26’292 445’842 25’226 439’951 23’192 429’096<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

Active Sportswear<br />

19’051 256’475 17’553 243’027 17’143 251’929<br />

Track suits, ski suits (62.11) 20’000 294’016 17’931 277’373 18’820 295’945<br />

Sub Total 20’000 294’016 17’931 277’373 18’820 295’945<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 14’557 183’974 13’919 179’647 13’788 185’674<br />

TOTAL 257’983 5’332’364 200’824 5’240’543 181’483 5’223’805<br />

TOTAL EXTRA EU 218’161 3’183’770 189’139 3’222’366 170’402 3’297’750<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 59


4.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT)<br />

According to table 43, the main two import countries for OPT business<br />

with Italy are Albania, with imports of € 35.7 million in 2008,<br />

and Tunisia, with imports valuing € 28.8 million. At present, the<br />

countries with the highest growth rates in the outward processing<br />

trade are Hong Kong (+155%), Armenia (+126%), <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />

(+63%) and Ukraine (+61%).<br />

Table 43: Largest supplying countries of OPT outerwear,<br />

2006-2008<br />

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change<br />

from 2006<br />

60<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

For Italy, the proportion of OPT imports compared to ‘normal’<br />

imports of outerwear (f.o.b. business) is low. The implication for<br />

clothing manufacturers mainly based in Eastern European countries<br />

is that there is a great deal of potential for more OPT business<br />

in the Italian market due to the national industry’s struggle<br />

with increasing costs for labour, energy, raw materials etc.<br />

The total OPT business into Italy from non EU countries has been<br />

slightly shrinking year after year: -1.8% in 2006 and -1.6% in 2008<br />

2007 [‘000 €] Change<br />

from 2007<br />

1 Albania 19’042 103% 38’650 -8% 35’682<br />

2 Tunisia 22’442 11% 24’960 15% 28’769<br />

3 China 8’221 171% 22’319 -19% 18’001<br />

4 Croatia 10’441 107% 21’649 -24% 16’387<br />

5 Moldova 9’358 68% 15’755 -1% 15’615<br />

6 Ukraine 7’575 0% 7’547 61% 12’147<br />

7 Morocco 1’043 557% 6’850 -13% 5’976<br />

8 Serbia 984 379% 4’717 -11% 4’198<br />

9 <strong>Switzerland</strong> 0 - 2’501 63% 4’079<br />

10 Macedonia 1’666 94% 3’229 6% 3’427<br />

11 Hong Kong 588 83% 1’073 155% 2’736<br />

12 Egypt 41 4733% 1’968 8% 2’119<br />

13 Bosnia-Herz. 243 566% 1’616 18% 1’912<br />

14 Mauritius 74 1457% 1’155 56% 1’797<br />

15 Montenegro 760 53% 1’163 -53% 546<br />

16 Macao 0 - 351 52% 534<br />

17 Armenia 0 - 143 126% 322<br />

18 Vietnam 806 4% 841 -69% 257<br />

19 Israel 0 - 0 - 201<br />

20 Sri Lanka 762 -59% 316 -43% 180<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

2008 [‘000 €]<br />

Total 168’360 -6% 158’631 -2% 155’541


4.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear<br />

Looking at the major clothing supplying countries to Italy, table<br />

44 gives a very good survey on the ‘top 20’ extra EU suppliers.<br />

Among the emerging and developing countries is China, with high<br />

year to year growth rate imports of € 2.7 billion in 2008. This figure<br />

represents almost 45% of the total imports of outerwear into Italy.<br />

A similar picture can be drawn for Tunisia (€ 0.8 billion) and Turkey<br />

(€ 0.5 billion) which have considerable growth rates, too.<br />

Table 44: Largest extra EU supplying countries of outerwear,<br />

2006-2008<br />

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change<br />

from 2006<br />

2007 [‘000 €] Change<br />

from 2007<br />

2008 [‘000 €]<br />

1 China 2’274’671 7% 2’434’448 10% 2’672’062<br />

2 Tunisia 718’142 9% 781’795 5% 818’742<br />

3 Turkey 474’623 12% 530’804 2% 539’329<br />

4 Bangladesh 333’929 -10% 301’923 18% 355’189<br />

5 India 339’217 -10% 305’470 -10% 275’318<br />

6 Croatia 169’421 -11% 151’551 5% 159’431<br />

7 Morocco 99’119 40% 139’136 1% 140’423<br />

8 Albania 90’461 5% 94’981 8% 103’042<br />

9 <strong>Switzerland</strong> 79’284 9% 86’119 9% 94’021<br />

10 Sri Lanka 50’128 30% 64’977 25% 81’487<br />

11 Vietnam 58’959 17% 69’198 11% 76’803<br />

12 Moldova 62’696 15% 71’836 -3% 69’527<br />

13 Indonesia 95’186 -33% 63’707 -2% 62’424<br />

14 Pakistan 67’418 -3% 65’559 -17% 54’596<br />

15 Egypt 44’712 8% 48’458 8% 52’122<br />

16 Thailand 48’457 -4% 46’628 -7% 43’354<br />

17 Hong Kong 164’314 -43% 93’411 -55% 41’708<br />

18 USA 41’510 -9% 37’829 10% 41’671<br />

19 Serbia 37’930 -2% 37’219 -17% 30’974<br />

20 Mauritius 39’619 -4% 37’883 -25% 28’427<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

The three biggest suppliers are China, Tunisia and Turkey. These<br />

three countries account for more than two thirds of the import share.<br />

Tunisia is also a strong OPT country for Italy, ranking on 2nd<br />

place in the above shown table.<br />

Extra-EU 27 5’605’889 2% 5’722’862 5% 6’002’287<br />

Intra-EU 27 3’838’826 3% 3’950’287 -3% 3’820’079<br />

Total 9’444’715 2% 9’673’149 2% 9’822’366<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 61


Intra EU imports into Italy remained constant over the period 2006<br />

to 2008. This imports accounts for 39% of the total outerwear<br />

clothing imports to Italy. Only Romania, which in ranking on the<br />

1st place and Hungary (ranking 10th) had constantly decreasing<br />

values over the period from 2006 to 2008.<br />

Table 45: Largest intra EU supplying countries of outerwear,<br />

2006-2008<br />

62<br />

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from<br />

2006<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

2007 [‘000 €] Change from<br />

2007<br />

2008 [‘000 €]<br />

1 Romania 1’031’866 -16% 865’063 -5% 825’811<br />

2 France 656’167 11% 725’300 -5% 692’522<br />

3 Spain 260’587 28% 333’812 18% 395’027<br />

4 Belgium 306’036 11% 338’639 12% 379’088<br />

5 Germany 304’743 9% 331’168 -9% 301’442<br />

6 Bulgaria 221’171 2% 225’221 2% 229’919<br />

7 UK 165’151 18% 194’700 13% 220’946<br />

8 Netherlands 147’755 22% 180’373 1% 182’025<br />

9 Portugal 125’380 14% 143’076 -14% 123’179<br />

10 Hungary 258’008 -12% 226’398 -54% 105’074<br />

Intra-EU 27 3’838’826 3% 3950287 -3% 3’820’079<br />

Extra-EU 27 5’605’889 2% 5’722’862 5% 6’002’287<br />

Total 9’444’715 2% 9’673’149 2% 9’822’366<br />

Source: Eurostat 200<br />

4.4 Trade structure.<br />

4.4.1 Developments in retail trade<br />

The independent retailers, which are mainly run as family businesses,<br />

still have a strong market position. As stated previously,<br />

the role of the independent shops in Italy has diminished and<br />

many shops have had to close down because the owners could<br />

not find a successor for their business.<br />

Furthermore, a tremendous competition has arisen in the clothing<br />

market from clothing multiples and supermarkets that have<br />

discovered that selling clothing is a profitable business. As in<br />

other South European countries, in Italy the domestic production<br />

and distribution of clothing is closely linked. Many Italian clothing<br />

brands like Benetton, Marzotto Group etc. have built up their own<br />

retail system, often based on franchise partnerships all over the<br />

country. In Europe, however as in Italy itself, Italian clothing brands<br />

and collections have lost market share. The multiple shops of Italian<br />

clothing companies have tried to answer by ‘going public’, joint<br />

ventures and mergers, with partial success. With the money earned<br />

from giving out stocks, some Italian multiples have financed<br />

their expansion plans to buy other companies and brands, enlarge<br />

their production facilities or extend their distribution network.<br />

As shown in chapter 4.3, imports grew constantly and in particular<br />

low priced products were imported and sold in Italian super- and<br />

hypermarkets. In addition, formerly middle priced and high priced<br />

items are influenced by increasing imports.<br />

The Italian clothing association ‘Sistema Moda Italia’ states that<br />

the multiples in Italy cope better with the new challenges of cheap<br />

mass imports than many small companies. The developments<br />

in clothing retail are very much in favour of multiples like Sasch,<br />

Benetton, Gas etc. that are able to optimise stock keeping and act


efficiently in the market. The small companies however have less<br />

financial possibilities to follow the technical trends in research and<br />

development and to establish their own distribution system.<br />

Since the variety stores also import and take advantage of cheaper<br />

clothing from outside the country, this segment could have profited<br />

in terms of gaining market share. However, the market importance<br />

is not as much as was forecast years before. Variety shops<br />

have to fight against discounters or super- and hypermarkets not<br />

to lose their customers searching for mid-priced and middle quality<br />

items. Unlike previous years, these super- and hypermarkets<br />

nowadays offer good quality and very reasonable prices.<br />

Instead of only selling clothing, advanced managed Italian retailers<br />

(mainly multiples and department stores) also often offer cosmetics,<br />

bags, shoes, accessories and sometimes even stylish<br />

household articles. There is a trend that retailers in Italy put<br />

emphasis on a ‘lifestyle ambience’ in the outlets and appropriate<br />

surroundings like cafeteria or special places for children. The aim<br />

is to keep the customers in the shops as long as possible to motivate<br />

them to finally buy something.<br />

E-commerce and internet sales in Italy have fewer opportunities<br />

than in other European countries. Only very low growth rates of<br />

clothing sales through this distribution channel can be predicted,<br />

because the logistically similar structured mail-order business is<br />

very small as well. The Italian Post is not efficient and too slow<br />

and it is a real burden to run a proper mail-order or e-commerce<br />

business. Furthermore, Italian consumers like to touch the fabric<br />

and trying on the clothing. Italian consumers, having ordered via<br />

internet or mail-order, are generally not prepared to wait for the<br />

items bought for more than one week.<br />

A phenomenon in Italy are the so called street markets with a<br />

share of approximately 10%. North-Africans and increasingly Chinese<br />

dealers offer cheap (branded) and very fashionable clothing<br />

with minor faults at a reasonable quality. Obviously, some of the<br />

products are counterfeited. 8 out of 10 Italian consumers admit to<br />

buy from these mainly illegal market dealers. Most of the goods<br />

are smuggled from China, Morocco or elsewhere.<br />

Based on developments in the European clothing market, changes<br />

will also occur in the Italian retail sector.<br />

4.4.2 Leading retailers<br />

The largest clothing retailer is the well known Benetton Group<br />

which has 6'200 shops all over the world. The turnover was €<br />

2.1 billion in 2008. Benetton is both manufacturer and retailer<br />

and carries the brands United Colors of Benetton (UCB Kids and<br />

UCB Adults), Sisley, Playlife, and other brands for sportswear and<br />

sports equipment. The group’s strategy is to increase floor-space<br />

and to transform its shops into mega stores. The large shops are<br />

managed directly by Benetton (no franchising) and are located in<br />

historical town centres and main shopping centres. The new Benetton<br />

‘Megastores’ sell casual wear and underwear and accessories<br />

for women, men and children.<br />

Max Mara is an Italian fashion giant with a continuously growing<br />

turnover, about € 1.7 billion, with more than 2'254 shops in over<br />

100 countries. Max Mara operates 17 companies in the markets<br />

and owns more than 35 labels. The brand produces and distributes<br />

women's wear, mainly coats and suits.<br />

Stefanel has 691 mono brand stores of which 264 are directly<br />

operated stores. In the mega stores of Stefanel, brands other<br />

than Stefanel are also offered. The whole company has a turnover<br />

based on retail and production activities of € 275 million a year.<br />

Stefanel owns four production sites in Italy and one in Germany.<br />

The Coin Group is one of the leading European retailers for<br />

clothing, accessories, and household goods with a turnover of €<br />

1.2 billion in 2009. The retail chains Oviesse and Coin belong to<br />

the Coin Holding and are subsidiary companies for different market<br />

segments. Throughout Italy there are 299 shops and 19 are<br />

located in other countries. The Coin clothing range is produced by<br />

Manifatture di Fara SPA and Sirema Srl.<br />

LA RINASCENTE is the leading department store in Italy with a<br />

good reputation offering a wide product range including a wide variety<br />

in clothing. In 2008, the turnover of La Rinascente was € 420<br />

million. La Rinascente aims to be the most elegant department<br />

store. Like other retailers that pursue a quality strategy, the stores<br />

are attractively decorated for national and international customers.<br />

La Rinascente department stores are located in characteristic<br />

places in the city centres of the major Italian cities. La Rinascente<br />

sold its subsidiary company UPIM (€ 430 million turnover in 2009)<br />

to the Gruppo Coin.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 63


4.4.3 Distribution channels<br />

4.4.3.1 Retailers<br />

Table 46 gives an overview on the structure of the Italian clothing<br />

retail market from 2004 to 2008. The numbers indicate that independent<br />

retailers account for 48% of clothing retail and therefore<br />

represent nearly half of the market. As opposed to other European<br />

countries, where multiples have the largest share, in Italy only<br />

19% of the clothing is sold through these clothing chains. Hyperand<br />

supermarkets represent 10% and department stores account<br />

for 10% of the clothing retail distribution in Italy.<br />

Table 46: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]<br />

2004 2006 2008<br />

Specialists 69 68 67<br />

Independent retailers 51 49 48<br />

Clothing multiples 18 19 19<br />

Non-specialists 31 32 33<br />

Department/variety stores 10 10 10<br />

Home shopping companies 0 1 1<br />

Hyper- and supermarkets 9 10 10<br />

Sports stores 4 4 5<br />

Other 8 7 7<br />

Total 100 100 100<br />

Source: CBI<br />

4.4.3.1.1 Independent retailers<br />

The Italian clothing market is dominated by independent retailers.<br />

These are mainly family run clothing shops, and had a market<br />

share of 59% in 1995. Since then, the importance of independent<br />

retailers has dropped to a market share of 48% in 2008. Italian<br />

small retailers offer high-priced items with an emphasis on quality,<br />

brands, well designed outlets and service. These ‘boutique like’<br />

shops convince with ‘personal contact’ and good ‘availability’ by a<br />

dense allocation of the shops all over the country.<br />

Market share: 48% in 2008, Trend: Strongly Decreasing<br />

4.4.3.1.2 Clothing multiples<br />

In contrast to other EU countries, clothing multiples in Italy mainly<br />

belong to clothing manufacturers. The most prominent is Benetton.<br />

Other clothing brands with own shops are Stefanel (women's<br />

wear), Max Mara (women's wear), Prenatal (children's wear) or<br />

Chicco (children's wear). Since these clothing chains aim to sell<br />

their own collections, importers will have difficulties in selling to<br />

them. This situation is totally different to other countries like UK,<br />

64<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Germany or The Netherlands. The Italian clothing multiples only<br />

buy a few items to complete their product range. However, if they<br />

import clothing, then they buy directly and concentrate on basic<br />

items.<br />

Market share: 19% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing<br />

4.4.3.1.3 Department/variety stores<br />

There are two big department stores in Italy: La Rinascente and<br />

Gruppo Coin. The department stores in Italy have an amazingly<br />

large range of products to offer. For example, Coin offers women's<br />

clothing from outerwear, underwear, night and swimwear to jeans<br />

and sportswear. Beauty, fitness and shoes also have a major share<br />

in the range of products offered in the Coin stores.<br />

Market share: 10% in 2008, Trend: Slightly Increasing<br />

4.4.3.1.4 Mail-order houses<br />

Over the last years the Italian postal service has made some<br />

improvements. But still the mail-order business is little developed<br />

and has no real tradition as in other European countries. The leading<br />

mail-order company is ‘Postalmarket’. Although the German<br />

mail-order company Otto gained market importance, the mailorder<br />

market share has decreased to 1% and does not show any<br />

significant signs of change.<br />

Market share: 1% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing<br />

4.4.3.1.5 Hyper- and supermarkets<br />

While multiples and department stores often buy directly from manufacturers,<br />

the hyper- and supermarkets sometimes also make<br />

use of agents and importers/wholesalers based in Italy. These<br />

hyper- and supermarkets concentrate on cheap products and are<br />

direct buyers/importers of clothing for which they have installed<br />

purchasing departments and specialised buyers for clothing who<br />

also travel abroad to inspect the production partner on the spot.<br />

Hyper- and supermarkets in Italy only offer a limited range of<br />

clothing products; often the consumer finds knitwear like T-shirts<br />

and pullovers, casual trousers including jeans, underwear items,<br />

anoraks and all kinds of shirts. The major supermarkets, mainly<br />

located in the North of Italy, are Coop, Ipercoop, Gruppo Standa,<br />

Conad, Despar Italia and Esselunga. The share of clothing sold<br />

through hyper- and supermarkets is slightly but continuously increasing,<br />

reaching a level of 10% in 2008.<br />

Market share: 10% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing


4.4.3.1.6 Sport stores<br />

Sport stores in Italy only offer a limited range of clothing products<br />

specialised to fit to numerous sporting disciplines.<br />

Market share: 5% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing<br />

4.4.3.1.7 Others<br />

Open (street) markets and consumer fairs are often supplied by<br />

specialised wholesalers that import directly from emerging and developing<br />

countries. Markets and fairs traditionally play an important<br />

role in Italy. However, the wholesalers involved in this fair and open<br />

market business also buy good quality fashion products that are<br />

sold at these fairs as well. Since the traders exhibiting on those<br />

open markets have to react quickly to market trends, they also buy<br />

selected clothing items from domestic manufacturers.<br />

Market share: 7% in 2008, Trend: Slightly decreasing<br />

4.4.3.2 Sales intermediaries<br />

4.4.3.2.1 Clothing manufacturers<br />

Clothing manufacturers in Italy often run their own shops to be<br />

independent from retailers. Manufacturers only buy a small share<br />

of their collection from foreign manufacturers, mainly in order to<br />

complete the existing product range. Large scale clothing manufacturers<br />

in Italy are e.g. Benetton, Sixty, Replay, Diesel, Gas, Stefanel,<br />

Max Mara, Prenatal, Marzotto or Chicco. The small clothing<br />

companies are concentrated in so-called ‘conzorzii’ in Biella/Piémont<br />

region (woollen products, coats, jackets, suits), Como-Lecco/<br />

Lombardie (silk, woollen products, coats, jackets, suits), Emilia<br />

Romagna (all kind of textiles), Tuscany (woollen products, coats,<br />

jackets, suits).<br />

4.4.3.2.2 Sales agents<br />

As the retailers are scattered all over Italy and difficult to reach<br />

from overseas markets, collaboration with an agent is common in<br />

Italy and generally recommended for better market penetration.<br />

Most of the agents are concentrated in the North of Italy and operate<br />

with sub-agents in central and southern Italy. The commission<br />

for an agent covering the whole of Italy is about 10%-15%. Independent<br />

regional sales agents take between 5% and 10%.<br />

4.4.3.2.3 Importers and wholesalers<br />

Italian importers operate nationwide and mainly ask for the ‘exclusive<br />

distribution rights’ for the whole of Italy. Importers/wholesalers<br />

in the classical sense tend to be few in Italy, because of the high<br />

competition within the distribution system and the strong position<br />

of the clothing brands with their own efficient outlets. The importers<br />

can often only position themselves by a ‘low price strategy’, e.g.<br />

by sourcing basic fashion items in emerging and developing<br />

countries. The role of Italian importers is getting less important,<br />

because dealing and importing of clothing (being a fashion item<br />

with its up and downs in sales) is increasingly seen as a risk. National<br />

manufacturers try to avoid collaboration with Italian importers<br />

because they have the image of being too expensive. Similar<br />

advantages and disadvantages may occur when dealing with Italian<br />

wholesalers. Wholesalers in Italy normally act only within their<br />

region to be more flexible for local markets and fairs. The Italian<br />

wholesalers mainly buy from local producers. Italian wholesalers<br />

also tend be very spontaneous in their choice with a strong tendency<br />

not to bind themselves in long-term business partnerships.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 65


4.5 Italian fashion trade fairs.<br />

The Italian market for fashion fairs is quite clearly structured according<br />

to their main product segments. The main cities for fashion<br />

fairs with European recognition are Milan and Florence. Italian<br />

fashion fairs like the ‘International Menswear Fair ‘Pitti Uomo’ still<br />

has an international excellent reputation and in fact buyers from<br />

all over the world tend to visit these international fashion events.<br />

The exhibitors at Moda Prima in Milan are manufacturers of ready<br />

to wear clothing from Italy and from countries like France, Spain,<br />

UK and Germany, Eastern Europe and Asia. The trade show aims<br />

to address major Italian retailers like department stores, chains<br />

and mail-order companies, but also wholesalers, importers and<br />

trading companies. The fair also gives space to manufacturers of<br />

non-exclusive clothing. Only one out of four sections is reserved for<br />

Italian manufacturers. Moda Prima seems to be the most suitable<br />

clothing fair for manufacturers from developing and emerging<br />

markets wishing to increase their sales to Italy. The most important<br />

fashion fair for women's wear is the Milano Moda Donna in<br />

February and September each year. The main fashion fair for<br />

men's wear is the Pitti Uomo which is quite small but of absolutely<br />

international importance with many buyers from overseas. The<br />

table of the specialised clothing fairs below only includes events<br />

with an international approach.<br />

Table 47: Italian fashion trade fairs 2010<br />

66<br />

Trade fair Date <strong>Location</strong><br />

Milano Moda Uomo 16. - 19.01.2010 Milan<br />

Milano Moda Showroom 18.01. - 07.02.2010 Milan<br />

Milano Unica - International Textile Fair 16. - 18.02.2010 Milan<br />

MODA IN - TESSUTO & ACCESSORI (Part of Milano Unica) 16. - 18.02.2010 Milan<br />

Ready to show 17. - 19.02.2010 Milan<br />

Milano Moda Donna fall/winter 2010/2011 24.02. - 03.03.2010 Milan<br />

MI Milano pret-à-porter (former Milanon Vende Moda) 26.02. - 01.03.2010 Milan<br />

Pitti immagine uomo 28.02. 03.03.2010 Florence<br />

Milano Moda Design 13. - 19.04.2010 Milan<br />

Milano Moda Pre Collezioni Spring 18.05. - 18.06.2010 Milan<br />

Moda Prima 22. - 24.05.2010 Milan<br />

Pitti immagine uomo 15. - 18.06.2010 Florence<br />

SI SPOSAITALIA COLLEZIONI 18. - 21.06.2010 Milan<br />

Milano Moda Donna spring/summer 2011 22. - 29.09.2010 Milan<br />

Milano Moda Pre Collezioni Fall 16.11. - 16.12.2010 Milan<br />

Moda Prima 27. - 29.11.2010 Milan<br />

Source: Gherzi research<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010


4.6 List of major buyers in Italy.<br />

Clothing chain stores<br />

Arimo S.r.l.<br />

Via Libertà 52<br />

I-20029 Turbigo (Mi)<br />

Tel.: +39 0331 890814<br />

Fax: +39 0331 898079<br />

info@arimo.it<br />

www.arimo.it<br />

Arteni Spa<br />

Via Nazionale, 133-141<br />

I - 33010 Tavagnacco (UD)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 432 661288<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 432 660624<br />

info@arteni.it<br />

www.arteni.it<br />

Bernardi SpA<br />

Via dell’ industria 1<br />

I - 33050 Ronchis (Ud)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 431 568111<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 431 567066<br />

info@bernardi.it<br />

www.bernardi.it<br />

Jeune Srl<br />

123/125, V. del Casale Santarelli<br />

I - 00040 Roma (RM)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 6 7984 5219<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 6 7984 5931<br />

jeune@jeune.it<br />

www.jeune.it<br />

La Cicogna srl<br />

Piazzale Biancamano 1<br />

I - 20154 Milano<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 233 605725<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 233 605725<br />

Product range: underwear,<br />

swim- and beachwear<br />

Price segment: mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 126<br />

Product range: ladies’,<br />

men’s, childrenswear,<br />

sportswear<br />

Price segment: mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 14<br />

Product range: ladies’,<br />

menswear<br />

Price segment: lower level<br />

Number of outlets: 150<br />

Product range: womenswear,<br />

young fashion<br />

Price segment: mid to<br />

higher level<br />

Number of outlets: 9<br />

Product range: childrenswear<br />

Price segment: mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 10<br />

Modifin SpA<br />

Via Manzoni, 38<br />

I - 20121 Milano<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 7609 3558<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 2 7609 3550<br />

Mango (head office in Spain)<br />

Mercaders 9-11<br />

P.I. Riera de Caldes<br />

Apartado de Correos 280<br />

ES-08184 Palau-solità i Plegamans<br />

(Barcelona) Spain<br />

Tel.: +34 93 860 24 24<br />

Fax: +34 93 860 22 07<br />

www.mango.es<br />

Nico Garda SpA<br />

Via S. Zeno, 67<br />

I - 36022 Cassola (VI)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 424 570630<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 424 570703<br />

www.nico.it<br />

www.grupponico.com<br />

Zara (Head office in Spain)<br />

Via Morimondo, 26<br />

I - 20143 Milano<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2818 00 81<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 2891 52 424<br />

www.zara.com<br />

Product range: Men’s and<br />

womenswear<br />

Price segment: high level<br />

Number of outlets: 20<br />

Note: Manufacturer and<br />

retailer<br />

Product range:<br />

Womenswear<br />

Price segment: mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 11<br />

Product range:<br />

all kinds of clothing<br />

Price segment: low<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

11 Italy, 12 EU, 3 US<br />

Note: app. 100 employees<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies, men’s,<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment: mid level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

67 in Italy<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 67


Jeans- sportswear and young fashion<br />

68<br />

M.J.F.<br />

Mohave Jeans Factory<br />

Zona ind. Corropoli<br />

I - 64013 Corropoli (TE)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 8 6183 90425<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 8 6183 9197<br />

info@mohave.it<br />

www.mohave.it<br />

Fornari Spa<br />

Zona Ind.le ’A’<br />

I - 62012 Civitanova Marche<br />

(MC)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 7 3389 5511<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 7 3389 5518<br />

fornari@fornari.com<br />

www.fornari.com<br />

JDS (James Dillon Sport<br />

Wear) SpA<br />

20/22, Via Vittine di Bologna<br />

I - 10024 Moucalivi (TO)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 11 6402115<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 2 892 210214<br />

www.jdsinternational.com<br />

Mazzorato Moda<br />

Via della Croce, 18 - Castelnumio<br />

I - 31023 Resana<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 423 484191<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 423 484184<br />

www.mazzorato.com<br />

Sport’85 srl<br />

V. Piave, km 68.600<br />

I - 04100 Latina (LT)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 773 48 6456<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 773 60 624<br />

www.sport85.it<br />

Teddy SpA<br />

Via Coriano, 58 – Grosrimini<br />

BL.97<br />

I - 47900 Rimini (RN)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 541 301411<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 541 383430<br />

info@teddy.it<br />

www.teddy.it<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Product range: Denim<br />

Price segment: mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 12<br />

Product range:<br />

young fashion<br />

Price segment: mid level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

31 own, 39 dep.<br />

stores, 3’500 multi-brands<br />

Note: Brand ‘Fornarina’<br />

Product range:<br />

Sports-, casual-, denimwear<br />

for ladies and men<br />

Price segment: mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 8<br />

Product range:<br />

womenswear<br />

Price segment: lower level<br />

Number of outlets: 17<br />

Product range:<br />

ladies’, men’s wear<br />

Product range:<br />

jeans and casualwear<br />

Price segment: lower level<br />

Number of outlets: 24<br />

Product range:<br />

womenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid to upper level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

370 worldwide<br />

Diesel Italia<br />

Via dell’ Industria 7<br />

I - 36063 Marostica (Vi)<br />

Tel.: + 39 (0) – 424 4855<br />

Fax: + 39 (0) – 424 471 131<br />

www.diesel.com<br />

Fashion Box<br />

Industries SpA<br />

Via Marcoai, 1<br />

I - 31010 Asolo (TV)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 423 9251<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 423 925299<br />

www.replay.it<br />

Sixty Groupe SpA<br />

Via Erasmo Piaggio, 35<br />

I - 66013 Chieti<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 871 5891<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 871 562496<br />

misssixty@misssixty.com<br />

www.misssixty.com<br />

COIN Spa<br />

Via Terraglio, 17<br />

I - 30174 Venezia (VE)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 41 2398000<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 41 982722<br />

www.coin.it<br />

www.gruppocoin.it<br />

Department stores<br />

l Vecchio Continente Srl<br />

Corso Alfieri 293<br />

I - 14100 Asti (AT)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 141 31336<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 141 35 889<br />

Rinascente UPIM Spa<br />

15, C. Ventidue Marzo<br />

I - 20129 Milano (MI)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 5990 2457<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 2 5990 23 29<br />

www.upim.it<br />

Product range:<br />

jeans and casualwear<br />

Price segment: mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 26<br />

Product range:<br />

jeans and casualwear<br />

Price segment: mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 26<br />

Product range:<br />

casualwear for ladies<br />

Price segment:<br />

lower to mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 16<br />

Product range:<br />

men’s, ladies’ and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid to upper level<br />

Number of outlets: 359<br />

Note: largest department<br />

store in Italy<br />

Product range: men’s,<br />

ladies’ and childrenswear<br />

Price segment: lower level<br />

Number of outlets: 10<br />

Product range: men’s,<br />

ladies’ and childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

lower to mid level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

147 stores<br />

+ 230 franchise partners<br />

Note:<br />

belongs to La Rinascente


Mail order companies<br />

G.D.A. SpA<br />

Via Lenticchia, 24<br />

I - 22100 Como (CO)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 31 5001111<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 31 5001191<br />

shirty@gda.it<br />

www.gda.it<br />

Grocery super- and hypermarkets<br />

C.I.S. COOP Italia<br />

Non-Alimentari r.l.<br />

24, p. Mercant<br />

I - 50019 Sesto Fiorentino<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 55 444840<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 55 4481243<br />

www.e-coop.it<br />

Euromadis<br />

Via Christoforo Colombo, 51<br />

I - 20090 Trezzano sul<br />

Naviglion<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 48402900<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 2 48402038<br />

Metro SpA<br />

Via di Torre Spaccata. 172,<br />

lotto 3<br />

I – 00169 Roma<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 6 454 97 100<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 6 454 97 190<br />

info@metrocspa.it<br />

www.metrocspa.it<br />

CONAD Consorzio<br />

Nationale<br />

Dettaglianti scarl<br />

Via Michelino, 59<br />

I - 40127 Bologna<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 51 508111<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 51 508414<br />

www.conad.it<br />

Gruppo Despar Italia<br />

Via Caldera, 21<br />

I - 20137 Milano<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 409091<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 2 40918177<br />

Lombardini Holding SpA<br />

Via Provinciale, 80<br />

I - 24044 Dalmine BG<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 35 432 0111<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 35 4320580<br />

Manufacturers / importers and wholesalers / importers<br />

G. Armani Spa<br />

Via Borgonuovo 11<br />

I - 20121 Milano<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 723181<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 2 8054102<br />

www.giorgioarmani.com<br />

Product range: children’s,<br />

babies’<br />

Belvest spa<br />

V. Corsica, 55<br />

I - 35016 Piazzola sul Brenta<br />

(PD)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 49 969 9111<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 49 559 8759<br />

www.belvest.com<br />

Benetton Group SpA<br />

Villa Minelli 1<br />

I - 31050 Ponzano Veneto<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 422 519111<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 422 969501<br />

info@benetton.it<br />

www.benetton.com<br />

Cadena Italia srl<br />

V. Leopardi, 31<br />

I - 22075 Lurate Caccivio (CO)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 31 391030<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 31 391040<br />

Casucci Spa<br />

Vl. Abruzzi<br />

I - 64016 Sant’Egidio alle<br />

Vibrata<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 8 618 481<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 8 618 41860<br />

www.casucci.it<br />

Fashion Group srl<br />

V. Tiburtina, 643<br />

I - 00159 Roma (RM)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 6 438 5972<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 6 438 6671<br />

www.class-fashion.com<br />

Forall Confezioni Spa<br />

V. F. Filzi, 34<br />

I - 36050 Quinto Vicentino (VI)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 444 35 6096<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 444 35 7064<br />

www.sartoriale.it<br />

www.palzileri.it<br />

Product: ladies’, menswear<br />

Manufacturer + wholesaler<br />

Note: 7’000 stores in 120<br />

countries<br />

Manufacturer + wholesaler<br />

Product: jeans and sportswear<br />

Product: Womenswear<br />

Manufacturer + wholesaler<br />

Product: Menswear<br />

Manufacturer + wholesaler<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 69


Manufacturers / importers and wholesalers / importers<br />

70<br />

Immagine Di Quattrocchi<br />

SAS Abbigliamente<br />

V. Umberto I, 209<br />

I - 98051 Barcellona Pozzo di<br />

Gotto (ME)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 90 979 5867<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 90 979 5867<br />

KOKO Srl<br />

V. Lombardia, 8<br />

I - 25025 Manerbio (BS)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 30 993 8422<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 30 993 8452<br />

www.koko.it<br />

Max Mara Fashion Group Srl<br />

Sede Legale<br />

via del Carmine,10 - Torino -<br />

Italia<br />

Tel: +39 02 777.921<br />

Fax: +39 02 777.92801<br />

info@maxmarafashiongroup.<br />

com<br />

www.maxmarafashiongroup.<br />

com/it<br />

Miniconf srl<br />

52010 Ortignano Raggiolo<br />

(AR)<br />

T: + 39 0575 5331<br />

info@miniconf.it<br />

www.miniconf.it<br />

Marzotto S.p.A.<br />

Via Turati 16/18<br />

I - 20121 Milano<br />

marzotto@marzotto.it<br />

www.marzotto.it<br />

Pado Tonali SpA<br />

Via Cesare Battisti 3<br />

I - 21045 Gazzada Schianno<br />

(VA)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 332 464233<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 332 464158<br />

tonalispa@paolotonali.it<br />

www.paolotonali.it<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Product:<br />

children’s, womenswear<br />

Manufacturer + wholesaler<br />

+ retailer<br />

Product: womenswear<br />

Manufacturer + wholesaler<br />

+ retailer<br />

shops<br />

Products:<br />

womenswear –<br />

upper segment<br />

Buying associations<br />

Cooperativa Legler Società<br />

Cooperativa<br />

Via Carducci, 5 - 24030 Presezzo<br />

(BG)<br />

Tel. +39.035.41.58.111<br />

Fax +39.035.41.58.126<br />

info@cooperativalegler.it<br />

www.cooperativelegler.it<br />

Euroconfezioni Soc.coop.r.l.<br />

39, v. Bellini<br />

I - 89055 Reggio Calabria<br />

(RC)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 965 371878<br />

Mob.: +39 0349 4049055<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 965 371878<br />

euroconf@libero.it<br />

Buying of all kinds of<br />

clothing<br />

Buying centres,<br />

supermarkets, retail<br />

shops<br />

Buying cooperation,<br />

manufacturer,<br />

retailer<br />

All kinds of outerwear,<br />

sportswear, workwear


5. Spain.<br />

5.1 General economic situation.<br />

When Spain acceded to EU membership in 1986, its people were<br />

among the most enthusiastic of Europeans. The country has done<br />

well from its membership by investing in roads, railways and modern<br />

infrastructure. But now the gilt is wearing off; there are more<br />

eurosceptics and less interest in decisions made in Brussels or the<br />

men and women who are supposed to represent them in the European<br />

Parliament. Strasbourg is a long way from the Cortes (parliament)<br />

in Madrid and Spanish political parties are less interested in<br />

European issues than in their approval rating at home.<br />

Unemployment in 2009 reached 18.8%, the highest in Europe, and<br />

there are predictions that it could reach 20 per cent before things<br />

improve.<br />

A report from the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and<br />

Development (OECD) has painted a bleak picture predicting<br />

economic contraction of 4.2% in 2009, considerably worse than<br />

the 3 % prediction of the Bank of Spain.<br />

The speed of the recession has been striking. In 2007 Spain was<br />

running a record public sector budget surplus of 2.2% of GDP, but<br />

in 2009 it will have a deficit of nearly 10%. Within the Euro-zone,<br />

only Ireland’s public spending deficit has risen faster. The governor<br />

of the Bank of Spain has warned that government debt could<br />

exceed 60% of GDP in 2010, up from less than 40% at the end of<br />

last year.<br />

Further evidence of the economic crisis can be seen in recent<br />

figures on house sales, which fell a record 47.6% in April 2009<br />

compared to the same month in 2008. House sales have been<br />

falling for 16 months, but this was the sharpest year-on-year<br />

decline to date. The National Confederation of Construction has<br />

estimated that around 600'000 homes around Spain remain unsold<br />

and a decline in the construction sector of 12.8% in 2009 hit the<br />

construction sector.<br />

Much of the growth in the Spanish economy was based on a<br />

housing bubble that has now burst. Between 2001 and 2007 Spain<br />

accounted for around a third of new-build properties in the European<br />

Union. The property crash had a huge impact on the major<br />

banks and the regional savings banks, which rested on mortgages<br />

and loans to property developers. Bad loans have quadrupled in<br />

2009 and there has been a rapid rise in defaults.<br />

The housing bubble was fed by a chain of finance based on the<br />

sale of bonds. This was swept away by the credit crunch. At its<br />

peak the Spanish current account deficit was nominally the world’s<br />

second highest, behind only the United States. This was in spite of<br />

the fact that Spain has a population of only 45 million.<br />

5.2 The market for outerwear.<br />

5.2.1 Market size<br />

Unlike in other Western and Northern European countries, the<br />

textile and clothing industry is an important industrial sector in the<br />

Spanish economy with 215'000 direct employed persons and 4%<br />

contribution to the GDP.<br />

Spain is a major world producer of textiles and apparel and the<br />

country’s economy relies heavily on this sector. The Asian crisis<br />

and the low growth of other world markets caused a strong entrance<br />

of foreign textile products into European markets including<br />

Spain, creating fierce competition, especially after the MFA<br />

expired at beginning of 2005.<br />

Since the introduction of the Euro in 2002, Spaniards have followed<br />

the European trend of spending less.<br />

Spain ranks fourth among the EU after Italy, France and Germany<br />

but has a stronger textile production base than e.g. UK.<br />

The Consejo Intertextil Espanol reports that the total production<br />

in 2008 for men’s, women’s and children’s outerwear amounted to<br />

approx. € 10.4 billion the same amount of 2007. During the same<br />

time period imports have decreased by -0.7%, but projections<br />

show that imports will again rise by an average of 10% per year.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 71


Table 48: Evolution of the Spanish textile and clothing sector [€ million]<br />

72<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 CAGR<br />

Employees [‚000] 243.3 223.2 206.0 169.5 182.3 -7%<br />

Production 12’790 11’650 11’415 10’390 10’390 -5%<br />

Import 10’031 11’011 12’336 13’383 13’281 7%<br />

Export 6’627 6’659 7’356 7’814 8’005 5%<br />

Trade balance -3’404 -4’352 -4’980 -5’569 -5’276 12%<br />

Source: Consejo Intertextil Expanol, 2008<br />

5.2.2 Market characteristics<br />

The situation in the apparel market can be characterized as<br />

follows:<br />

The total Spanish clothing industry is highly fragmented with 3'900<br />

clothing manufacturers. The production is to a great extent outsourced<br />

to small and medium-sized workshops. Many large companies<br />

are looking for lower labour costs in other countries such as Portugal,<br />

Morocco and Tunisia. 2/3 of total Spanish clothing exports go<br />

to other European markets. The main clothing suppliers’ are China<br />

and Portugal, and the main customers are Portugal and France.<br />

Innovation, just-in-time supplement, continual renewal of stock with<br />

the most recent fashion trends and satisfying customer demands<br />

are immediate success formulas of the largest Spanish companies.<br />

Clothing sales through internet are less successful than in other<br />

European countries like <strong>Switzerland</strong>, Germany, Netherlands or UK.<br />

Only 1% of the Spanish population uses the internet for shopping<br />

purposes. The general aversion to computers, problems with logistics<br />

and lack of amusement during the purchase are reasons for<br />

the low rate of e-commerce-based clothing purchases.<br />

In general, the outerwear market can be divided into several<br />

segments based on type of product combined with type of activity,<br />

resulting in a specific clothing behaviour, like formal or classic,<br />

(smart) casual, leisure and active sports.<br />

Purchases in volume of women’s formal clothing decreased in the<br />

period 2006-2008, caused by fewer purchases of suits, ensembles<br />

and indoor jackets, while purchases of women’s casual and leisurewear<br />

(outdoor jackets, cotton trousers, including jeans, shorts)<br />

increased in the review period.<br />

Purchases in volume of men’s formal woven outerwear stabilized;<br />

casual and leisurewear dominate in men’s expenditure.<br />

Sales of woven outerwear for boys’ wear grew to a lesser degree<br />

than girls’ wear and, especially, babies’ wear. Leisure and casual<br />

items such as jeans and other cotton trousers, shorts and outdoor<br />

jackets remained rather popular. Expenditure on active sportswear<br />

in the children’s sector had a market share of 14% in 2008. Among<br />

boys, the popularity of sportswear brands stabilized.<br />

5.2.3 Demographic characteristics<br />

According to figure 5, out of 46.2 million Spaniards, the major<br />

population segment is between 25 and 39 years of age (approx.<br />

10 million – male and female). This age group is followed by<br />

those between the age of 40 and 44 years (approx. 3.4 million<br />

people). Spain’s major target group is more than 5 years younger<br />

compared to other Northern European countries. Therefore, the<br />

young fashion and sportswear segment, being the preferred dress<br />

style by these age groups, offers good sales opportunities for<br />

clothing manufacturers from abroad covering this segment. As<br />

in all countries analysed for this survey, children and teenagers<br />

have a low share in the total population. Only approx. 8 million<br />

Spanish citizens are younger than 20 years old. The prospects for<br />

the children's wear sector are not positive: in the year 2008, only 2<br />

million children were between 5 and 9 years old and represented<br />

the smallest age group of all (except those over 75 years old). The<br />

export manager from abroad wishing to enter or to sell more in<br />

the Spanish clothing market should follow and/or anticipate these<br />

developments and be prepared to further develop his collection<br />

according to the demands of the targeted age groups.


Figure 5: Age structure of Spanish population by gender, 2008<br />

Source: US Census Bureau, International Data Base<br />

9 5 - 9 9<br />

9 0 - 9 4<br />

8 5 - 9 0<br />

8 0 - 8 5<br />

75 -79<br />

70 -74<br />

6 5 - 6 9<br />

6 0 - 6 4<br />

5 5 - 59<br />

50 - 5 4<br />

4 5 - 49<br />

4 0 - 4 4<br />

3 5 - 3 9<br />

3 0 - 3 4<br />

25 -29<br />

20 -24<br />

15 -19<br />

10 -14<br />

5 - 9<br />

0 - 4<br />

male female<br />

2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0<br />

5.2.4 Retail sales by product category and gender<br />

The Spanish clothing market can be divided into four major product<br />

groups: formal, casual, leisure and active sportswear.<br />

Spanish women wear often feminine and stylish clothes, but are<br />

critical about comfort and quality. They also have higher preferences<br />

for national brands and make their purchasing decision<br />

based on comfort, quality and design.<br />

Spanish men aged over 40 are classic dressers and reserve the<br />

greatest part of their annual clothing budget for a smart suit, while<br />

younger men in Spain are more fashion-conscious and spent more<br />

on clothing in the last few years than before. Men over 40 are still<br />

classically dressed and often wear a suit.<br />

In general, the outerwear market can be divided into several<br />

segments based on type of product combined with type of activity,<br />

resulting in a specific clothing behaviour.<br />

Spanish people prefer casual clothing for their daily life, largely<br />

supported by young people. The increasing demand for jeans<br />

and other cotton trousers, knitted products like T-shirts, sweaters,<br />

jumpers, pullovers etc. and sportswear illustrates the popularity of<br />

casual/leisure wear.<br />

Population in millions<br />

Table 49: Market share of outerwear by product category and<br />

gender, 2003 and 2007 [%]<br />

Women Men<br />

2003 2007 2003 2007<br />

Formal 27 25 25 22<br />

Casual 48 49 41 42<br />

Leisure 18 18 24 25<br />

Active sports 7 8 10 11<br />

Total 100 100 100 100<br />

Source: Euromonitor, Eurostat<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 73


5.2.5 Consumer behaviour<br />

5.2.5.1 Consumer preferences<br />

Women and label-conscious urban young people tend to be the<br />

major target group in the Spanish apparel sector. Consumers in<br />

Spain attach a great deal of importance to fashion and are beginning<br />

to care more and more about what they wear, giving special<br />

awareness to brand names. Interviews and trend research in Spain<br />

have proved that professional women have a general preference<br />

for wearing natural materials, dark colours, comfortable styles and<br />

classic designs. In contrast, in the North of Spain, light colours are<br />

trendier. Six out of ten Spanish women regard quality as the main<br />

aspect in their buying decision while 30% feel that design is the<br />

most important criterion. Surprisingly, price is the most important<br />

decision factor for only 10% of women, in contrast to attitudes in<br />

Northern EU countries and <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />

Spanish clothing consumers can be briefly characterized by the<br />

following statements:<br />

• The Spanish consumers do not have a tendency to prefer the<br />

same shop; instead, they look for diversity in their shopping locations.<br />

• Although this habit has decreased, approximately 18% of<br />

Spaniards still go shopping with their families/relatives (in com<br />

parison: European average is only 9% in this respect). -<br />

Spaniards buy clothing 7-8 times a year (on average), which is<br />

below the European average of 9-10 times a year. The exception<br />

are young consumers from 16 to 34; their average is more than<br />

10 purchases per year.<br />

• Spaniards pay increasing attention to brand names – especially<br />

young consumers and service quality.<br />

• The country of origin of the product purchased is for Spanish<br />

consumers mostly irrelevant.<br />

• Spanish consumers are less ecologically conscious e.g. compa<br />

red to the Swiss, Germans or the Scandinavians, and requests<br />

for ‘ecological standards’ in terms of clothing presently can only<br />

be observed in large cities like Madrid and Barcelona.<br />

The differences in consumer preferences compared to other<br />

Western European countries like <strong>Switzerland</strong> and Germany is the<br />

cut of ladies outerwear. Due to the average smaller size of Spanish<br />

74<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

women, the pattern is slimmer in Spain (e.g. a Swiss/German size<br />

38 is size 40 to 42 in Spain). Also trousers with ‘extra length’ (like<br />

36 and 38 are rarely in demand).<br />

5.2.5.2 Consumer expenditure<br />

Consumer spending on clothing in Spain is below average levels<br />

in other European countries. Average spending on clothing in 2009<br />

amounts to € 492 per capita, which is clearly below Italy’s rate of €<br />

733. It also decreased in comparison to Spanish total consumption.<br />

It is obvious that expenditure on clothing depends to some extent<br />

on the geographical zones. Firstly, the reason for these differences<br />

is the social life, the income and the prestige, which play<br />

an important role in the North of the country. Secondly, the climate<br />

influences expenditure on clothing, e.g. in the colder North, the<br />

relatively more expensive outerwear items like coats, jackets etc.<br />

increase the per capita consumption in value terms. The ‘economic<br />

centres’ are the regions with the highest readiness to spend money<br />

for clothing like Cantabria, Navarra, Rioja and Ceuta/Melilla.<br />

According to industry sources, women’s expenditure on outerwear<br />

amount to approximately 50% of the total consumer expenditure<br />

on outerwear clothing. More details about the structure of Spanish<br />

outerwear consumption can be taken from table below.<br />

Table 50: Consumer expenditure on outerwear clothing<br />

2004 2006 2008 2009<br />

Women [€ bn] 10.0 10.6 10.9 10.1<br />

Men [€ bn] 5.9 6.3 6.3 5.9<br />

Children<br />

(aged 3-14) [€ bn]<br />

2.9 3.1 3.2 3.1<br />

Total [€ bn] 18.8 20.0 20.4 19.1<br />

Source: Analysis based on CBI<br />

5.2.6 Price development of clothing<br />

As the Spanish clothing market is still dominated by the strong<br />

national clothing production, price developments also depend on<br />

the national industry to a large extent.<br />

The national consumer price index grew with a CAGR of 2.2%<br />

from 2006 to 2009 (national consumer price index 2006=100,<br />

2009=106.8) compared to the clothing (including shoes) price<br />

index which fell by an average of -0.1% per year from 2006 to<br />

2009 (clothing (and shoes) price index 2006=100, 2009=99.75).


The strong increase of clothing imports, mainly from developing<br />

countries into Spain has led to more competition and has limited<br />

the inflation for clothing items. The production costs for clothing in<br />

Spain have been lower (e.g. for labour, logistics, marketing) compared<br />

to Western European countries, the price level for apparel<br />

has been approximately 10% lower.<br />

According to the Textile and <strong>Outerwear</strong> Information Centre (CI-<br />

TYC) in Barcelona, the mark-up for a Spanish retailer ‘theoretically’<br />

is at 100%; in practical terms, due to sales and reductions, figures<br />

run at only 70%. This tendency to stronger price reductions, lower<br />

margins and a European wide price adaptation can be stated for<br />

all countries of the Euro zone covered by this market survey.<br />

For men or boys<br />

2006 2007 2008<br />

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />

Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.01) 1’660 31’622 1’845 34’432 4’060 43’383<br />

Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts<br />

etc. (61.03)<br />

7’869 73’397 11’037 78’991 10’552 79’206<br />

Shirts (61.05) 7’525 169’910 7’456 183’269 76’923 192’434<br />

Sub Total 17’053 274’929 20’337 296’692 91’535 315’022<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 16’881 134’622 20’288 142’652 19’457 161’406<br />

For women or girls<br />

5.3 Imports.<br />

5.3.1 Total imports<br />

The imports of outerwear clothing to Spain increased by 8.6%<br />

from 2007 to 2008.<br />

Table 51 and table 52 give a more detailed survey on the imports<br />

from 2006 to 2008 divided into imports of knitted outerwear and<br />

imports of woven outerwear.<br />

Looking at the 2008 total figures in table 51, the import share of<br />

men’s knitted outerwear clothing (knitted and woven) at 3.5% (=<br />

€ 0.3 million) less than the half of women import (7.7% = € 0.7<br />

million). The import share of knitted outerwear for both genders<br />

was 29.6% with € 2.7 billion. Knitted sportswear items add up to €<br />

0.3 billion, a 3.0 % import share.<br />

Knitted outerwear for women or girls has the highest growth<br />

rates with +59.3% from 2006 to 2008 (value) followed by knitted<br />

outerwear for men with an increase of +19.9% in the same period.<br />

It is obvious that these product segments with the highest import<br />

growth rates offer the best sales opportunities for manufacturers<br />

from abroad. The total import of knitted products into Spain increased<br />

in terms of value from 2006 to 2008 by 21.5%.<br />

Table 51: Imports of knitted outerwear by gender and product<br />

categories, 2006-2008<br />

Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.02) 1’429 40’229 1’741 51’982 68’751 100’602<br />

Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, dresses,<br />

skirts etc. (61.04)<br />

16’221 238’419 23’463 347’689 211’976 442’543<br />

Blouses and shirts (61.06) 2’283 113’644 2’166 137’126 69’483 161’866<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 75


Sub Total 19’933 392’292 27’370 536’797 350’210 705’012<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 19’230 178’715 27’268 227’588 24’809 284’749<br />

For both genders<br />

T-shirts, singlets etc. (61.09) 44’025 1’072’931 49’159 1’165’774 97’079 1’103’070<br />

Jersey, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats,<br />

etc. (61.10)<br />

43’336 982’295 39’882 1’070’531 148’322 1’303’971<br />

Babies’ garments (61.11) 74’004 189’385 81’355 218’250 73’256 197’099<br />

Garments rubberised, impregnated,<br />

etc. (61.13)<br />

345 7’437 592 9’890 714 12’363<br />

Gloves, mittens and mitts (61.16) 3’727 41’761 3’836 43’374 13’662 41’680<br />

Other made-up clothing accessories<br />

(61.17)<br />

4’170 38’290 4’213 33’559 4’055 39’826<br />

Sub Total 169’607 2’332’098 179’037 2’541’378 337’087 2’698’009<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 98’452 1’180’680 102’600 1’285’865 120’174 1’382’790<br />

Active Sportswear<br />

Track suits, ski suits and swimwear<br />

(61.12)<br />

12’264 159’435 17’383 165’009 81’332 168’236<br />

Special garments for professional<br />

sporting or other purposes (61.14)<br />

67’299 137’309 24’384 123’780 6’763 119’911<br />

Sub Total 79’564 296’745 41’767 288’789 88’094 288’147<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 16’697 152’772 22’143 141’514 11’935 124’556<br />

TOTAL 286’157 3’296’065 268’512 3’663’656 866’925 4’006’190<br />

TOTAL EXTRA EU 151’259 1’646’789 172’299 1’797’620 176’374 1’953’501<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

Generally speaking, imports to Spain in almost all woven product<br />

categories have increased year by year since 2006. Looking at<br />

the total imports of woven outerwear for women or girls, imports<br />

from 2006 to 2008 in value terms increased more strongly than for<br />

men. The imports of woven men’s or boys’ outerwear increased by<br />

16.1% from € 1.6 billion in 2006 to € 1.8 billion in 2008, whereas<br />

the women's wear imports for the same product group increased<br />

by 17.9% from € 2.2 billion in 2006 to € 2.6 billion in 2008.<br />

76<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Thus, best prospects for imported apparel include business wear<br />

(basic colours, good quality, medium- high price) for women as<br />

well as high quality sportswear with a casual style and excellent<br />

quality materials (mainly natural fibres) with sophisticated styles<br />

and patterns. Casual wear, mainly denim, cotton-made products<br />

and knitted apparel, have also been in strong demand and sales<br />

prospects for these items have been rated as positive. Spanish<br />

youth is strongly influenced by fashion trends from casual wear in<br />

general (‘GAP style’) and it can be stated that imports in general<br />

have very good prospects in this sector.


Table 52: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008<br />

For men or boys<br />

2006 2007 2008<br />

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />

Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.01) 15’739 251’037 14’500 267’716 20’949 306’322<br />

Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts, etc.<br />

(62.03)<br />

42’358 947’501 46’097 1’053’743 190’377 1’099’781<br />

Shirts (62.05) 14’799 355’216 17’339 416’233 206’588 397’444<br />

Sub Total 72’896 1’553’753 77’935 1’737’693 417’914 1’803’548<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 71’231 887’827 77’496 980’492 77’932 970’813<br />

For women or girls<br />

Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.02) 19’377 352’049 21’803 403’012 341’039 474’557<br />

Suits, jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers, etc<br />

(62.04)<br />

58‘111 1‘510‘981 59‘590 1‘628‘990 338‘589 1‘626‘261<br />

Blouses and shirts (62.06) 6’452 302’746 7’663 378’931 13’553 453’405<br />

Sub Total 83’939 2’165’776 89’055 2’410’933 693’182 2’554’223<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 81’817 1’382’836 88’814 1’559’231 102’062 1’703’457<br />

For both genders<br />

Babies garments (62.09) 5’373 85’626 39’612 95’908 6’282 90’800<br />

Others incl. Impregnated (62.10) 4’775 99’320 6’619 108’839 10’777 244’785<br />

Shawls, scarves, mufflers, etc. (62.14) 3’437 63’773 2’932 54’685 5’066 67’271<br />

Ties, bow ties and cravats (62.15) 301 32’247 366 34’791 858 38’176<br />

Gloves, mittens and mitts (62.16) 791 14’985 626 14’124 1’082 28’894<br />

Other made-up clothing accessoires (62.17) 2’410 36’506 10’420 39’193 3’191 37’748<br />

Sub Total 17’085 332’457 60’575 347’540 27’256 507’675<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 10’762 117’682 12’206 116’744 13’424 143’250<br />

Active Sportswear<br />

Track suits, ski suits (62.11) 15’645 221’525 22’621 237’475 79’944 244’000<br />

Sub Total 15’645 221’525 22’621 237’475 79’944 244’000<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 13’213 116’012 14’785 128’787 14’230 140’501<br />

TOTAL 189’566 4’273’511 250’186 4’733’642 1’218’295 5’109’446<br />

TOTAL EXTRA EU 177’022 2’504’358 193’299 2’785’254 207’648 2’958’021<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 77


5.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT)<br />

The textile and clothing industry in Spain is a labour intensive industry<br />

with relatively high labour costs. Outsourcing is a common<br />

practice among Spanish clothing firms, however mainly within<br />

Spain. INDITEX (Brand ZARA), for example, designs, produces<br />

(50% is outsourced to subcontractors) and distributes its<br />

own brands (vertical concept). The company policy of satisfying<br />

customer demand almost immediately requires that INDITEX production<br />

is almost entirely located in Europe, primarily in Spain to<br />

provide the flexibility to respond quickly and effectively to market<br />

trends. MANGO, Spain’s second largest textile company after<br />

INDITEX, designs strictly women's wear for young urban women.<br />

However, Mango manufactures only to 25% of its production in<br />

Table 53: Largest supplying countries of OPT outerwear, 2006-2008<br />

78<br />

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from<br />

2006<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Spain. The remainder of Mango clothing is produced in China (approximately<br />

50%) and Morocco (approximately 25%) but almost<br />

100% on finished product basis.<br />

The actual ‘Outward Processing Trade’ (OPT) business – usually<br />

operated by apparel manufacturers - in Spain plays more and<br />

more important role but represents only 1.7% of total outerwear<br />

imports. The No. 1 OPT supplier is by far Morocco with € 0.1 billion<br />

imports in 2008 (in 2006 only € 0.04 billion!) followed by Tunisia,<br />

China and Macedonia. Basically, there are two reasons for the<br />

extremely small OPT business: a. the strong clothing production<br />

base in Spain with rather competitive prices and b. no tradition in<br />

OPT business.<br />

2007 [‘000 €] Change from<br />

2007<br />

2008 [‘000 €]<br />

1 Morocco 38’754 148% 96’166 18% 113’660<br />

2 Tunisia 4’707 257% 16’782 6% 17’813<br />

3 China 984 27% 1’245 194% 3’655<br />

4 Macedonia 672 -13% 583 40% 814<br />

5 Bangladesh 27 -100% 0 625<br />

6 Serbia 10 770% 85 163% 224<br />

7 Turkey 6 -100% 0 200<br />

8 Vietnam 141 -41% 83 129% 190<br />

9 Moldova 0 69 74% 119<br />

10 Pakistan 0 0 100<br />

11 USA 2 -100% 0 53<br />

12 Hong Kong 10 5% 11 346% 49<br />

13 Guatemala 0 0 42<br />

14 Mexico 0 0 19<br />

15 Norway 2 -100% 0 3<br />

16 Bosnia-Herz. 0 70 -97% 2<br />

17 Thailand 32 87% 61 -97% 2<br />

18 <strong>Switzerland</strong> 2 -100% 0 0<br />

19 Romania 7’129 -100% 0 0<br />

20 Bulgaria 12’702 -100% 0 0<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

Total 65’477 76% 115’382 19% 137’570


5.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear<br />

The five major supplying countries of clothing from extra-EU countries<br />

are – according to their importance – China, Morocco, Turkey,<br />

Bangladesh and India The two main extra-EU suppliers of fashion<br />

clothing, China and Morocco, represent 54.7% of the entire extra-<br />

EU import value<br />

Table 54: Largest extra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008<br />

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change<br />

from 2006<br />

2007 [‘000 €] Change<br />

from 2007<br />

2008 [‘000 €]<br />

1 China 1’395’357 17% 1’632’135 12% 1’825’982<br />

2 Morocco 766’241 15% 882’098 -3% 859’022<br />

3 Turkey 551’166 29% 709’031 -4% 684’114<br />

4 Bangladesh 360’521 -7% 335’050 17% 393’519<br />

5 India 261’435 -7% 244’034 24% 301’958<br />

6 Vietnam 84’355 14% 95’896 55% 148’249<br />

7 Cambodia 70’378 18% 82’788 19% 98’858<br />

8 Thailand 45’076 -10% 40’614 135% 95’536<br />

9 Pakistan 79’377 -5% 75’665 3% 77’785<br />

10 Tunisia 51’308 18% 60’306 5% 63’343<br />

11 Egypt 7’232 268% 26’582 103% 54’053<br />

12 Indonesia 54’382 -10% 49’098 3% 50’417<br />

13 Hong Kong 136’735 -21% 107’846 -57% 45’946<br />

14 Myanmar 32’713 1% 33’168 11% 36’712<br />

15 <strong>Switzerland</strong> 28’224 -5% 26’918 9% 29’217<br />

16 Madagascar 16’913 7% 18’053 -15% 15’323<br />

17 Sri Lanka 14’906 7% 15’951 -10% 14’289<br />

18 Peru 13’946 -5% 13’221 -7% 12’342<br />

19 Malaysia 26’877 -47% 14’327 -20% 11’517<br />

20 USA 8’120 28% 10’354 1% 10’406<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

The two main EU suppliers France and Italy represent 47.9% of<br />

the whole EU import value. In general, approximately 46.1% of the<br />

import value is supplied by EU member states and the rest comes<br />

from developing countries.<br />

Extra-EU 27 4’151’147 10% 4’582’874 7% 4’911’522<br />

Intra-EU 27 3’418’428 12% 3’814’424 10% 4’204’113<br />

Total 7’569’575 11% 8’397’298 9% 9’115’635<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 79


Table 55: Largest intra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-<br />

2008<br />

80<br />

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from<br />

2006<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

2007 [‘000 €] Change from<br />

2007<br />

2008 [‘000 €]<br />

1 France 639’311 18% 757’482 50% 1’134’652<br />

2 Italy 806’863 13% 914’602 -4% 878’723<br />

3 Portugal 600’697 13% 681’595 -4% 654’037<br />

4 Germany 416’821 12% 466’345 5% 489’272<br />

5 Belgium 344’117 17% 401’852 1% 406’711<br />

6 Netherlands 136’536 33% 181’371 13% 204’598<br />

7 UK 112’909 14% 128’388 39% 178’857<br />

8 Denmark 116’167 7% 124’850 -11% 111’452<br />

9 Bulgaria 99’598 -50% 49’421 0% 49’659<br />

10 Romania 49’272 -57% 21’104 14% 24’078<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

Intra-EU 27 3’418’428 12% 3’814’424 10% 4’204’113<br />

Extra-EU 27 4’151’147 10% 4’582’874 7% 4’911’522<br />

Total 7’569’575 11% 8’397’298 9% 9’115’635<br />

5.4 Trade structure.<br />

5.4.1 Developments in the retail trade<br />

The fierce competition on the Spanish market, partly due to more<br />

imports from abroad, has led to structural reforms at the retail<br />

level. The expansion of clothing multiples resulted in a decrease<br />

in the number of independent specialized shops. In 2008, total<br />

clothing retail trade showed rising turnover with an average annual<br />

change of +2.3%.<br />

Each year, independent retailers are steadily losing market shares<br />

to other more dynamic retail channels; this trend has even accelerated<br />

in the last few years.<br />

In Spain there are five large groups that control one third of the total<br />

retail market for men’s, women’s and children's wear: El Corte<br />

Inglés, Inditex, Carrefour, Cortefiel and Mango.<br />

In 2008 there were 40'000 clothing retailers in Spain down from<br />

70'612 in the nineties. Each year, small independent multi-brand<br />

stores steadily lose market share to other more dynamic retail<br />

channels, like specialised clothing chains, and this trend will continue<br />

because of limited capabilities to respond quickly to changing<br />

trends. At the lower end of the retail market, the market share of<br />

street markets declined in favour of shopping centres (including<br />

hypermarkets and multiples).<br />

The further strategy of the clothing industry, partially running their<br />

own retail outlets, includes the increase of productivity in order to<br />

lower labour costs, and a higher dislocation of the production to<br />

countries with low production costs. These cost-saving strategies<br />

have been completed by a very sophisticated supply-chain management<br />

to provide the franchise shops with new fashion items<br />

on a weekly or monthly basis.<br />

The Inditex Group has achieved a worldwide leading standard with<br />

almost perfect logistics and very short lead-times for new ranges/<br />

designs of less than 6 weeks. It can be expected that the Spanish<br />

clothing retailers will offer greater segmentation in the product<br />

lines offered and specialize more in market niches, mainly within<br />

the low and upper price ranges.


5.4.2 Leading retailers<br />

As mentioned before, the Spanish clothing retail structure can be<br />

characterized by a strong concentration on only a few companies.<br />

Further, a significant part of the turnover is made by distribution<br />

chains such as C&A, or international franchise companies like<br />

Benetton, Pimkie or Promod.<br />

Department store sales (in Spain El Corte Inglés) also represent a<br />

large share of the total clothing market. The El Corte Inglés group<br />

includes the franchise chains Sintesis, Cedosce, Tintoretto and<br />

Amitié.<br />

The most successful Spanish clothing retailer, INDITEX in La<br />

Coruna, is the world third largest clothing company after GAP and<br />

H&M, with a total turn-over of € 10.41 billion (2008) representing<br />

an CAGR of 20.6% over the last 10 years (1998 turn-over € 1.6<br />

billion). The founders and owners had opened the first Zara store<br />

with the idea of producing fashion clothing at an affordable price.<br />

Over the past decade, Inditex has registered 7 new brands and<br />

runs 3'556 shops in 37 countries. Inditex group today consists<br />

of eight major chains: Zara (Turn-over share: 65.6% - products:<br />

men’s, women’s and children's wear), Zara Home (Turn-over share:<br />

2.1% - products: home textiles), Pull & Bear (Turn-over share:<br />

6.9% - products: menswear), Massimo Dutti (Turn-over share:<br />

6.9% - products: men’s and women's wear), Bershka (Turn-over<br />

share: 9.9%), Oysho (Turn-over share: 2.3%), Stradivarius (Turnover<br />

share: 6.1% - products: women’s and girls’ wear) and Uterqüe<br />

(Turn-over share: n.a. – products: women’s and girls’ accessories<br />

and shoes).<br />

INDITEX provides the flexibility and quick response to market<br />

trends, while other Spanish clothing firms are based on designer<br />

or seasonal collections. Designers are in constant touch with store<br />

managers to find out which items are most in demand. The plant,<br />

in turn, ships the goods to the stores twice a week, thus eliminating<br />

the need for warehouses and keeping inventories low.<br />

European firms such as Gucci are successful in the women's<br />

wear market. Dutch/German C&A targets a bigger share in the<br />

market. Other successful European chains in Spain are the Italian<br />

Benetton, Max Mara chains and the French Pimkie. The Swedish<br />

Hennes & Mauritz chain has operated in the Spanish market since<br />

2000 and plans an aggressive expansion, opening numerous<br />

outlets in major Spanish cities. The American GAP competes<br />

successfully with Zara and Mango, offering young fashion at low<br />

prices.<br />

The Barcelona-based Armand BASI, originally a knitwear company,<br />

is also an important supplier of men’s and women's wear, as<br />

well as the Galicia based CARAMELO chain. Two leading Spanish<br />

specialists in women’s jeans and trousers are ANINOTO and<br />

JOCAVI, which are popular among women of all ages.<br />

Table 56 gives a survey on the major clothing companies, most<br />

of them having an own production as well as own retail outlets<br />

among which MANGO, ZARA and CORTEFIEL have the most<br />

advanced marketing concept and are successfully operating all<br />

over Europe and partially worldwide. In the table below it becomes<br />

obvious to what extent Inditex dominates the Spanish clothing<br />

market with 1'896 own shopping outlet stores in Spain (53% of<br />

worldwide shopping outlet stores). Another big player is the ‘El<br />

Grupo CORTEFIEL SA’ in Madrid with 970 shops in 9 European<br />

countries and 375 franchises in 37 non European countries.<br />

The distribution of outerwear in the Spanish clothing market is<br />

based on extensive franchising systems that are highly developed<br />

compared to other European markets. Some of the most important<br />

franchises are ADOLFO DOMINGUEZ (men’s designer clothing<br />

– 559 outlets worldwide), MASSIMO DUTTI (ladies’ and men’s outerwear<br />

– 250 outlets – franchisee Inditex Group) or TINTORETTO<br />

(high segment ladies’ outerwear – 45 outlets – franchisee Induyco<br />

Group).<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 81


Table 56: Major specialised clothing chains in Spain, 2008-2009<br />

82<br />

Clothing retail chain Parent company Website Number of outlets<br />

Zara* Inditex www.zara.com 514 (1’188)<br />

Pull and Bear* Inditex www.pullbear.com 287 (495)<br />

Massimo Dutti* Inditex www.massimodutti.com 250 (398)<br />

Bershka* Inditex www.bershka.com 262 (503)<br />

Stradivarius* Inditex www.e-stradivarius.com 265 (412)<br />

Oysho* Inditex www.oysho.com 176 (322)<br />

C&A C&A www.c-y-a.es 114 (1’149)<br />

H&M Hennes&Mauritz www.hm.com/ 114(1’988)<br />

Adolfo Dominguez* Adolfo Dominguez www.adolfodominguez.es ‘(599)<br />

Mango* Mango Holding www.company.mango.com 265 (1’223)<br />

Promod Promod www.promod.eu 49 (783)<br />

Amitié* Induyco www.amitie.induyco.es 78<br />

Titorento* Induyco www.tintoretto.es 45<br />

Síntesis* Induyco www.sintesis.induyco.es 11 (21)<br />

Síntesis XXL* Induyco www.sintesis.induyco.es 11 (21)<br />

Springfield* Grupo Cortefiel www.grupocortefiel.com 287 (1’223)<br />

Cortefiel* Grupo Cortefiel www.grupocortefiel.com 250 (1’223)<br />

Women’s Secret* Grupo Cortefiel www.grupocortefiel.com 229 (1’223)<br />

Pedro del Hierro* Grupo Cortefiel www.grupocortefiel.com 19 (1’223)<br />

Prenatal Prenatal www.prenatal.es 105 (339)<br />

Pimkie Association Mulliez www.pimkie.fr 270 (655)<br />

Décathlon Association Mulliez www.decathlon.com ‘(457)<br />

Intersport Intersport Group www.intersport.com ‘(4’885)<br />

Sport2000 Groupe Sport 2000 www.sport2000.fr ‘(2’446)<br />

Source: Gherzi analysis – Note: *Companies with own production in Spain or clothe collaboration; Number in brackets corresponds to worldwide outlets.<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010


5.4.3 Distribution channels<br />

5.4.3.1 Retailers<br />

The last survey on the structure of the Spanish clothing distribution<br />

channels dated from 2009 indicates that 157'600 persons<br />

were employed in 62'817 shops. The size of the shops in Spain is<br />

comparatively small with 2.5 employees per unit (source: Distribución<br />

Actualidad based on data from DBK). Table 57, based on<br />

CBI, indicates the share of the clothing distribution channels in<br />

2008. The market is still dominated by the independent specialized<br />

retailers (35%) but the share of clothing multiples (28%) has grown<br />

in recent years and can be rated, together with the hyper- and supermarkets<br />

(11%), as the greatest potential target customer group<br />

for manufacturers from developing countries.<br />

Table 57: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]<br />

2004 2006 2008<br />

Specialists 63 64 63<br />

Independent retailers 38 37 35<br />

Clothing multiples 25 27 28<br />

Non-specialists 37 36 37<br />

Department/variety stores 13 12 12<br />

Home shopping companies 1 1 1<br />

Hyper- and supermarkets 10 10 11<br />

Sports stores 5 6 6<br />

Other 8 7 7<br />

Total<br />

Source: CBI<br />

100 100 100<br />

5.4.3.1.1 Independent retailers<br />

Key characteristics: These specialized clothing shops are still the<br />

main retail outlets for garments in Spain (Jeans-shops, Boutiques,<br />

sportswear-shops), although the market share of these shops has<br />

been slightly decreasing. They still play an important role mostly in<br />

the North of Spain, although even here the importance for this distribution<br />

channel is shrinking. Each year small independent multibrand<br />

stores steadily lose market share to other more dynamic<br />

retail channels (like large department store El Corte Ingles, C&A<br />

and other forms of retail). This trend has accelerated in the past<br />

few years, mainly because of their limited capabilities to respond<br />

quickly enough to changing market trends and the limited choice of<br />

products in the shops.<br />

Market-share: 35% in 2008, Trend: Decreasing<br />

5.4.3.1.2 Clothing multiples<br />

Key characteristics: Clothing multiples mainly or exclusively have<br />

only one brand label in their assortment for fashionable products<br />

with short rotation times (like Mango). As a result of aggressive<br />

expansion plans, these specialist chains account for a large percentage<br />

of total retail clothing sales in Spain. Many of these chains<br />

operate on either a franchise basis or a mix of both company-run<br />

stores and franchises. These often single brand retail channels,<br />

along with hypermarkets, have gained the greatest market share<br />

at the expense of the multi-brand independent shops. Like France<br />

and the UK, Spain possesses favourable regulations for franchise<br />

companies.<br />

Market share: 28% in 2008, Trend: Increasing<br />

5.4.3.1.3 Department / variety stores<br />

Key characteristics: Department stores combine a wide range of<br />

branded goods and private labels. The prevalent Spanish department<br />

store is El Corte Inglés, the store presents more than<br />

30 brands of men’s, women’s and children's wear. Many of these<br />

brands originate from the Induyco Group (which is the owner of El<br />

Corte Inglés). However, a large portion of the assortment consists<br />

of well-known Spanish or foreign brands. According to our market<br />

observations, entry to the Spanish market through El Corte Inglés<br />

for companies with substantial sales volume has been indispensable<br />

up to now. Despite strict terms of admission (restrictive terms<br />

of payment, certain levels of turnover etc.) set up by the leading<br />

department store, many brand manufacturers try to sell their<br />

garments to El Corte Inglés. Due to strict brand orientation, the<br />

department store offers easier access for well known brands and<br />

companies with a good image. Companies from developing countries<br />

have the best access chances to El Corte Inglés by offering<br />

their assortment to the ‘private label buying managers’ who source<br />

their products mainly from overseas suppliers.<br />

Market share: 12% in 2008, Trend: Slightly decreasing<br />

5.4.3.1.4 Home shopping companies<br />

Mail-order has traditionally not been particularly popular in Spain,<br />

with direct selling being the more effective and better-developed<br />

method in the Spanish market. Shopping has always been seen as<br />

a leisure activity in Spain, where shops stay open late.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 83


The major German and French players are present in Spain, but<br />

their progress has been slow. Spanish leading mail-order companies<br />

selling clothing besides general goods are Venca (part of Otto<br />

Versand) and La Redoute Catalogue.<br />

Market share: 1% in 2008, Trend: Constant<br />

5.4.3.1.5 Hyper- and supermarkets<br />

Key characteristics: The main activities of grocery super- and<br />

hypermarkets lie originally in the selling of groceries. Both distribution<br />

channels are gaining importance in Spain. The price level<br />

of clothing sold by super- and hypermarkets ranges in the lower to<br />

middle level. The important suppliers are large supermarkets like<br />

ALCAMPO, ALIMENT, MERCADONA, GIGANTE and CARRE-<br />

FOUR. For the children's clothing sector this distribution channel<br />

plays a particularly important role.<br />

Market share: 11% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing<br />

5.4.3.1.6 Sport shops<br />

Sport stores in Spain only offer a limited range of clothing products<br />

specialised to fit to numerous sporting disciplines.<br />

Market share: 6% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing<br />

5.4.3.1.7 Other (street markets, etc.)<br />

According to desk-research and interviews conducted in Spain,<br />

open street markets and to a lesser extent consumer fairs and<br />

factory outlets are the major distribution channels for clothing<br />

summarised under ‘Other forms of retail’. The market share of this<br />

retail channels is slightly decreasing.<br />

Market share: 7% in 2008, Trend: Slightly decreasing<br />

5.4.3.2 Sales intermediaries<br />

5.4.3.2.1 Clothing manufacturers<br />

As stated above, the clothing production sector plays a dominant<br />

role in the Spanish industry. There is a growing trend among<br />

manufacturers to create their own chain of distribution. Franchise<br />

has become a very common system for brand name distribution of<br />

fashion products.<br />

A new way of distributing garments for clothing manufacturers<br />

originates from the USA: Sales through Factory Outlet Centers<br />

(FOCs). Garments are sold directly from the factory to the<br />

consumer. This distribution way concerns ‘leftovers’: goods from<br />

84<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

overproduction, phased-out products and returns. ZARA has an<br />

independent shop in Madrid. There are many FOCs in Spain, located<br />

outside of big cities. There is FOC ‘La Roca Company Stores’<br />

near Barcelona, which offers brand apparel at reduced price in 40<br />

shops (Cacharel, Dockers, Levi’s, Timberland). Two other FOCs<br />

are situated near Madrid (‘Las Rozas Village’ in Las Rozas and<br />

another one in Getafe). According to Factory-Outlet Center.biz<br />

there are 9 registered large FOC’s in Spain in 2009.<br />

5.4.3.2.2 Central buying associations<br />

As the share of independent smaller retailers in Spain (at 35%)<br />

is high, there is a relatively broad basis for potential member<br />

companies for buying associations. Nevertheless, the major buying<br />

association Spain is IFA ESPANOLA in Madrid. The members are<br />

more supermarkets and cash-and-carry markets than retailers.<br />

The low importance of buying associations in Spain can be mainly<br />

explained by the fact that the owner of a single boutique or a small<br />

number of shops buys over 80% of his product range from local<br />

manufacturers and/or from sales agents representing foreign<br />

brands. Therefore, the buying associations are of less importance<br />

for foreign manufacturers wishing to export to Spain.<br />

5.4.3.2.3 Sales agents<br />

Sales agents play a major role in the Spanish clothing market. This<br />

refers mainly to Spanish and European clothing brands which are<br />

distributed via a network of sales agents all over the country. Only<br />

those clothing manufacturers from abroad wishing to enter the<br />

Spanish market with an own product range are advised to appoint<br />

a sales agent to sell their collection to the major retailers. These<br />

sales agents should be located near or in the major ‘clothing areas’<br />

of Spain like Madrid, Seville, Barcelona and La Coruña to build<br />

up and maintain contact to the ‘key players’ in Spain.<br />

5.4.3.2.4 Importers/wholesalers<br />

Given the strong increase of clothing imports into Spain since the<br />

end of the nineties, the necessity for the assignment of importers/<br />

wholesalers has increased. Some Spanish wholesalers/importers<br />

have come to supply the chains and the brands with ‘price<br />

attractive and fashionable’ collections that they often develop with<br />

manufacturers from overseas countries. However, interviews in<br />

Spain have shown that the large clothing companies like Mango,<br />

Inditex or Indyuco often have their own import departments and<br />

sourcing and control systems worldwide. Therefore, the clothing<br />

supplier from abroad should approach retailers and manufacturers<br />

in Spain directly.


5.5 Spanish fashion trade fairs.<br />

The important Spanish fashion fairs take place in two big cities:<br />

Barcelona and Madrid.<br />

The significant fashion fair in Madrid is SIMM – International Fashion<br />

Week. It is organized twice a year, in February and August/<br />

September in Parque Ferial Juan Carlos I by IFEMA (Feria de<br />

Madrid). The fair focuses on men’s and women's wear, but also<br />

fur clothing and leather garments. The fair includes the following<br />

events: INMODA/ANIMODA, IMAGENMODA, INTERMODA, LA<br />

GALERIA, PASARELA DE CIBELES, CIEN POR CIEN, ESPA-<br />

Table 58: Spanish fashion trade fairs 2010<br />

CIO CIBELES, ESPACIO HOMBRE and BOUTIQUE EUROPA.<br />

The ongoing growth SIMM has enjoyed has made this event the<br />

second most important fashion trade fair in Europe in terms of<br />

net exhibition area, based on a solid and constant drive to ensure<br />

quality. Furthermore, the fair will feature strong participation on the<br />

part of international companies and buyers from other countries,<br />

for which SIMM represents an important business centre.<br />

For children's wear the ‘FIMI’ in Valencia is the most important<br />

event. The fair takes place twice per year and shows baby to teenager<br />

wear as well as accessories and maternity wear.<br />

Trade fair Date <strong>Location</strong><br />

FIMI 18. - 20.06.2010 Valencia<br />

Salon Intenational de Moda de Madrid (SIMM) 04. - 06.02.2010 Madrid<br />

Source: CBI<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 85


5.6 List of major buyers in Spain.<br />

Clothing chain stores<br />

86<br />

C & A Modas S.L.<br />

Avda. de la Indústria, 17<br />

Pol. Ind. de Alcobendas<br />

28108 Alcobendas (Madrid)<br />

Tel.: +34-91-663 0000<br />

Fax: +34-91-663 3532<br />

press@C-and-A.com<br />

www.c-and-a.com or<br />

www.c-y-a.es<br />

infoiberica@retail-sc.com<br />

Celso Garcia SA<br />

Calle Serrano 52<br />

E - 28001 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-431 6760<br />

Fax: +34-91-431 67 70<br />

www.cortefiel.es<br />

Comerc. Espanola LA ARA-<br />

NA SA<br />

Polígono Industrial El Pla -<br />

Edificio Arana<br />

E - 08800 Barcelona<br />

Tel.: +34-93-668 9061<br />

Fax: +34-93-668 5962<br />

Cortefiel SA<br />

Avenida Mon Forte De Lemos<br />

s/n<br />

E - 28029 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-730 2912<br />

Fax: +34-91-730 2437<br />

www.cortefiel.es<br />

Damart SA<br />

Calle Gomis 32<br />

E - 08023 Barcelona<br />

Tel.: +34-93-212 2412<br />

Fax: +34-93-211 5815<br />

www.damart.fr<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Product range: Ladies’,<br />

men’s and childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 115<br />

Product range: Ladies’,<br />

men’s and childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 11<br />

Note: Belongs 1/3 to<br />

Cortefiel<br />

Product range: Ladies’<br />

and menswear<br />

Price segment: Lower to<br />

mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 42<br />

Product range: Ladies’<br />

and menswear + young<br />

fashion<br />

Price segment: Mid level<br />

Number of outlets: > 300<br />

Product range: Ladies’<br />

and menswear, underwear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower level<br />

Number of outlets: 22<br />

shops + mail order<br />

Euronido Textil SA<br />

Ctra. Andalucia, km 6.400<br />

E - 28041 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-217 3345<br />

Fax: +34-91-365 0848<br />

www.euronido.es<br />

Inditex SA (‘Zara’)<br />

Poligono Ind. Sabon 79B<br />

E - 15142 Arteixo, La Coruna<br />

Tel.: +34-981-185400<br />

Fax: +34-981-185454<br />

www.inditex.com<br />

Mango – Punto FA S.L.<br />

Calle Mercaders 9 11<br />

E - 08184 Palau de Plegamans<br />

–<br />

Barcelona<br />

Tel.: +34-93-860 2222<br />

Fax: +34-93-8602 201<br />

www.mango.es<br />

Prénatal SA<br />

Botanica 29-31<br />

E-08908 Hospitalet de Llobregat<br />

(Barcelona)<br />

Tel.: +34-93-2606000<br />

Fax: +34-93-2606018<br />

www.prenatal.es<br />

Reguero SA<br />

Roble 3<br />

E - 28020 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-4252 880<br />

Fax: +34-91- 571 57 35<br />

Superconfex SA<br />

Sierra de Guadarrama 84<br />

Polígono Industrial San<br />

Fernando<br />

de Henares<br />

E - 28850 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-656 4012<br />

Fax: +34-91-677 2935<br />

www.superconfex.be<br />

Product range: Ladies’<br />

and menswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower level<br />

(value for money)<br />

Number of outlets: 16<br />

Product range: Ladies’,<br />

men’s and childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Mid to<br />

upper level<br />

Number of outlets: > 500<br />

- partially<br />

own production<br />

Product range: Womenswear,<br />

young fashion<br />

Price segment: Mid level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

Over 60 + 175<br />

franchising partners<br />

Product range: Childrenswear,<br />

Maternity wear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Number of outlets: 105<br />

Product range: Menswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 14<br />

Product range: Ladies’<br />

and menswear<br />

Price segment: Lower<br />

level<br />

Number of outlets: 12<br />

Note: Daughter company<br />

of Dutch<br />

‘Superconfex’


Jeans-, sportswear and young fashion<br />

Dacosa SA<br />

Claudio Coello 57<br />

E - 28001 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-431 6041<br />

Fax: +34-91-577 4904<br />

dacosaspeedway@hotmail.com<br />

www.dacosaspeedway.com<br />

Department stores<br />

Alcampo SA<br />

Edificio de Oficina Madrid 2<br />

Santiago del Compostela sur<br />

s/n<br />

E - 28029 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-730 6666<br />

Fax: +34-91-730 7299<br />

www.alcampo.es<br />

El Corte Ingles SA<br />

Hermosilla 112<br />

E - 28009 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-309 7221<br />

Fax: +34-91-327 1327<br />

www.elcorteingles.es<br />

Galerias Primero SA<br />

Paseo Echegaray y caballero 76<br />

E - 50003 Zaragoza<br />

Tel.: +34-976-769900<br />

Fax: +34-976-769901<br />

www.galeriasprimero.es<br />

www.grupoelarbol.com<br />

Jose Luis Gay GA<br />

Calle Alfonso I n 17<br />

E - 50003 Zaragoza<br />

Tel.: +34-976-397150<br />

Fax: +34-976-396647<br />

Simago SA<br />

Josefa Valcarcel, 40 duplicado<br />

E - 28027 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-301 80 00<br />

Fax: +34-91-301 80 23<br />

Product range: Sportswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to higher level<br />

Number of outlets: 110<br />

Note: belongs to Cortefiel<br />

group<br />

Product range: Ladies’,<br />

men’s and childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 43 + 13<br />

gas stations<br />

Product range: Men’s<br />

ladies and childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Lower to<br />

upper level (depending on<br />

distribution channel)<br />

Number of outlets: 37<br />

dept. stores + supermarkets<br />

+ franchising partners<br />

Product range: Ladies’,<br />

men’s and childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Mid level<br />

Number of outlets: 11<br />

Product range: Ladies’ and<br />

menswear<br />

Price segment: Lower<br />

level<br />

Number of outlets: 6<br />

Product range: Ladies’,<br />

men’s and childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Lower<br />

level<br />

Number of outlets: approximately<br />

15<br />

Note: belongs to the Spanish<br />

Continente Group<br />

Mail order companies<br />

Venta Catalogo SA<br />

Calle de los Olivares 1 -<br />

Vilanova i la Geltrú<br />

E - 08800 Barcelona<br />

Tel.: +34-93-814 0909<br />

Fax: +34-93-893 0818<br />

www.venca.es<br />

Product range:<br />

Casual wear for men<br />

and women<br />

Price segment: Mid level<br />

Manufacturers / importers and wholesalers / importers<br />

Caramelo SA<br />

Avda. Gambrinus 103<br />

E - 15008 La Coruna<br />

Tel.: +34-981-146 002<br />

Fax: +34-981-270103<br />

www.caramelo.com<br />

Centro Textil Massana<br />

C. Josep Calvet, 80 - Apto.<br />

1052<br />

E - 08302 Mataró (Barcelona)<br />

Tel.: +34-937-415 545<br />

Fax: +34-937-415 553<br />

www.massana.es<br />

Difusión Dignos S.L. /<br />

Dikton’s<br />

C/Tanger 66<br />

E - 08018 Barcelona<br />

Tel.: +34-93-486 45 45<br />

Fax: +34-93-486 45 46<br />

sales@diktons.com<br />

www.diktons.com<br />

Import Arrasate S.A.<br />

Pol. Kataid, pab 19<br />

E - 205000 Arrasate<br />

(Guipuzcoca)<br />

Tel.: +34-943-712-034<br />

Fax: +34-943-771-301<br />

www.astore.es<br />

Product range: Ladies’ and<br />

menswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to higher level<br />

Number of outlets: 25<br />

Note: Manufacturer +<br />

retailer<br />

Product range: Knitwear<br />

and outerwear<br />

Price segment: Mid level<br />

Product range: Knitwear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid level<br />

Product range: Sport and<br />

rainwear<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 87


Manufacturers / importers and wholesalers / importers<br />

88<br />

Induyco Grupo de Moda<br />

Tomas Breton, 62<br />

E - 28045 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-4680 300<br />

Fax: +34-91-46 78 723<br />

www.induyco.es<br />

Sirita SL<br />

Calle Poligono 6<br />

E - 46960 Aldaya (Valencia)<br />

Tel.: +34-96-151 2377<br />

Fax: +34-96-151 2361<br />

www.andres-garcia.com<br />

Takezo + Co. SA<br />

Trafalgr 70<br />

E - Barcelona (Ciutat Vella)<br />

Tel.: +34-93-268 4322<br />

Fax: +34-93-268 2293<br />

Unicen SL<br />

San Pedro de Leixa 303<br />

E - 15405 Ferrol, La Coruna<br />

Tel.: +34-981-315611<br />

Fax: +34-981-326252<br />

www.unicen.com<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Product range: Ladies,<br />

men’s and childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Mid to high<br />

level<br />

Note: 50% production<br />

absorbed by<br />

Corte Inglés<br />

Product range: Casual<br />

wear for men<br />

Note: Manufacturer<br />

Product range: Ladies’ and<br />

menswear<br />

Price segment: Mid level<br />

Product range: Menswear<br />

Note: Manufacturer and<br />

wholesaler<br />

Buying associations<br />

IFA Española SA<br />

Sepulveda, 4<br />

Poligono Industrial Alcobendas<br />

E - 28108 Alcobendas (Madrid)<br />

Tel.: +34-91-651 0460<br />

Fax: +34-91-661 5880<br />

www.grupoifa.com<br />

Una – Vivo AS<br />

Condado de Trevino 19<br />

E - 28033 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-766 1222<br />

Note:<br />

62 related wholesalers<br />

Note:<br />

160 related companies


6. <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />

6.1 General economic situation.<br />

The Swiss import policy for clothing from EU and to a large extent<br />

also from non-EU countries is very liberal. Thus, the economy is<br />

internationally highly integrated, applying an open trade regime for<br />

industrial products. Tariffs on manufactured products are generally<br />

low, and in principle there are no quantitative restrictions,<br />

anti-dumping, countervailing or safeguard actions. However, in a<br />

number of sectors, the market entry has long suffered from ‘private’<br />

or ‘informal’ barriers that can be attributed to a legacy of weak<br />

anti-cartel legislation, specific and protective technical regulations,<br />

certain investment restrictions, etc.<br />

Against the backdrop that <strong>Switzerland</strong> has no mineral resources,<br />

the country is forced to import, process and resell them as<br />

products. The ‘service sector’ is the most significant part of the<br />

economy, employing more the 50% of the population. This sector<br />

specifically includes banking, insurance and tourism. Industry<br />

and trade are the second sectors in significance (about 40% of<br />

the population are employed there) and include the machine and<br />

metal industry, the watch industry as well as the textile and clothing<br />

industry.<br />

Economic relations with the EU have further intensified and foreign<br />

trade with this ‘country block’ has a share of 70% of all Swiss<br />

trade activities. Exports of merchandise are concentrated on a few<br />

sectors, particularly machinery, instruments, watches, chemicals<br />

and medical products and to a lesser extent textiles and clothing.<br />

Exports of commercial services are also important with about one<br />

quarter originating in the financial sector.<br />

As mentioned, the European countries play an important role in<br />

Swiss trade relations. Germany is the most important trading partner<br />

for <strong>Switzerland</strong>: In 2008, 34.6% (€ 44.3 billion) of all imports<br />

came from Germany and 20.3% of all exports (€ 28.5 billion) were<br />

delivered into Germany. Both are also important investment partners<br />

to each other. <strong>Switzerland</strong> is the sixth largest foreign investor<br />

in Germany.<br />

GDP and Industrial Production have grown from 2007 to 2008 by<br />

1.7% and 4.7% respectively. Table 59 shows all of the important<br />

Key Indicators of the Swiss Economy over the last years.<br />

The CHF develops more closely in line with the Euro than with the<br />

USD. In the past few years, the ratio of the CHF to the Euro has<br />

slowly but continuously grown stronger. One CHF is at present<br />

0.68 € (22.02.2010).<br />

Table 59: Key indicators of the Swiss economy, 2007-2009<br />

2007 2008 2009<br />

Real GDP growth [%] 6.2 4 -2<br />

Industrial production growth [%] 6.5 2.1 -6.7<br />

Average unemployment rate [%] 2.8 2.7 3.5<br />

Average consumer price index [%]<br />

Exchange rates<br />

2.6 3.3 -3.9<br />

CHF in € (average) 0.61 0.63 0.66<br />

CHF in US$ (average) 0.83 0.93 0.93<br />

Source: IMF, FSO Statistical Yearbook 2009, Oanda<br />

6.2 The market for outerwear.<br />

6.2.1 Market size<br />

<strong>Switzerland</strong> has a small but very competitive apparel market. In<br />

2008, the total local clothing industry had a turn over of about<br />

CHF 2.01 billion. <strong>Switzerland</strong> has very high labour and production<br />

costs, and therefore the industry has the tendency to concentrate<br />

on high-end and/or niche products. <strong>Switzerland</strong>’s apparel industry<br />

is experiencing a resizing process, based on the following key<br />

factors:<br />

• Worldwide over capacities<br />

• Growing competition from low wage economies<br />

• Strict displacement competition<br />

• Lack of market dynamics in textile production<br />

• Market split between expensive labels and cheap mass clothing<br />

• Consumer price sensitivity<br />

• Demographic developments<br />

Clothing imports amounted to CHF 6.28 billion in 2008 (see table<br />

60), a 0.6% growth over the previous year. At the same time,<br />

clothing exports accounted for CHF 2.14 billion. Due to the fact<br />

that <strong>Switzerland</strong> is a relatively small country, the Swiss clothing<br />

industry depends strongly on exports. Local production accounts<br />

for CHF 2.01 billion. Thus, imports are three times stronger than<br />

local production.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 89


Table 60: Size of the Swiss clothing industry, 2007-2008<br />

[CHF billion]<br />

2007 2008 % change<br />

Imports 6.24 6.28 0.6<br />

Local production 2.06 2.01 -2.2<br />

Exports 2.19 2.14 -2.6<br />

External trade balance -4.18 -4.27 2.2<br />

Source: TVS<br />

6.2.2 Market characteristics<br />

The Swiss clothing retail market has undergone a severe concentration<br />

process with a trend towards factory outlets, (brand) chain<br />

stores and ‘brand sales points’ within larger department stores<br />

(‘shop-in-shop’). The increased use of e-commerce in the fashion<br />

world has imposed a challenge to the ‘normal’ retailers. Trends are<br />

towards multi-channelling (parallel selling via internet and shops),<br />

pre- and after sales support and mass customized offers. Foreign<br />

Figure 6: Age structure of Swiss population by gender, 2008<br />

90<br />

Real, Index 1970 = 100<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

115<br />

105<br />

95<br />

85<br />

75<br />

65<br />

55<br />

10 0 +<br />

9 5 - 9 9<br />

9 0 - 9 4<br />

8 5 - 9 0<br />

8 0 - 8 5<br />

75 -79<br />

70 -74<br />

6 5 - 6 9<br />

6 0 - 6 4<br />

5 5 - 59<br />

50 - 5 4<br />

4 5 - 49<br />

4 0 - 4 4<br />

3 5 - 3 9<br />

3 0 - 3 4<br />

25 -29<br />

20 -24<br />

15 -19<br />

10 -14<br />

5 - 9<br />

0 - 4<br />

companies have gained more and more influence, for instance<br />

C&A <strong>Switzerland</strong>, H&M, Zara and others (see ‘Leading Retailers’<br />

and ‘Distribution Channels’).<br />

6.2.3 Demographic characteristics<br />

The Swiss society is an ageing society. There are now many more<br />

elderly people than 50 years ago. The number of citizens over 64<br />

has more than doubled since 1950, while that of those over 80<br />

has even quadrupled. The major age group are those at an age<br />

between 40-44. In contrast, the number of ‘under twenties’ has<br />

increased at a lower pace and has actually declined since the<br />

early seventies. This ageing process is the result of a longer life<br />

expectancy and fewer births. According to birth scenarios drawn<br />

by the Swiss Federal Statistical Office, this trend will continue over<br />

the next few decades. The population pyramid shown in Figure 6<br />

points out in greater detail the recent (year 2008) proportion of the<br />

Swiss male and female population divided into age groups (based<br />

Total<br />

on a total Swiss population of 7.6 million).<br />

male female<br />

1970<br />

1972<br />

1974<br />

1976<br />

1978<br />

1980<br />

1982<br />

1984<br />

1986<br />

1988<br />

1990<br />

1992<br />

1994<br />

1996<br />

1998<br />

Population in millions<br />

2000 2002<br />

2004<br />

2006<br />

2008<br />

0.35 0.30 0.25 0.20 0.15 0.10 0.05 0.00 0.00 0.05 0.10 0.15 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.35<br />

Source: US Census Bureau, International Data Base<br />

Clothing


6.2.4 Retail sales by categories<br />

The clothing sales increased by an average of 1.6% from 2000<br />

to 2008. The total sales index grew in the same period by an average<br />

of 1.8%. Clothing sales fell by 3.0% from 2007 to 2008. Data<br />

about the specific sales for outerwear are not available, however,<br />

Figure 7 gives a good indication on the total sales tendencies and<br />

clothing from 1970 to 2008.<br />

Figure 7: Sales volume index for total sales and clothing sales,<br />

1970 - 2008<br />

Source: BFS<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 91


Figure 8: Production and import costs for textile and clothing,<br />

2002 – 2009 (Index 2003 = 100)<br />

Source: BFS<br />

The sales volume of outerwear has grown from CHF 1.00 billion in<br />

2000 to CHF 1.34 billion in 2008, an increase of 34%. The sales<br />

volume of underwear has declined by 20.5% in the same period.<br />

The total turnover increased by 21.8% from 2000 to 2008. Table 61<br />

indicates the sales developments of the major product segments<br />

outerwear, underwear and accessories. Sales have dropped from<br />

2007 to 2008 by -2.2%.<br />

92<br />

Price Index<br />

110<br />

108<br />

106<br />

104<br />

102<br />

100<br />

98<br />

96<br />

94<br />

2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Local prduction cost<br />

Import cost


Table 61: Size of the Swiss clothing market, 2000-2008<br />

[CHF billion]<br />

2000 2006 2007 2008 % change 07-08<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 1.00 1.31 1.37 1.34 -2.00<br />

Underwear 0.44 0.00 0.36 0.35 -2.90<br />

Accessories 0.21 0.31 0.33 0.32 -2.30<br />

Total 1.65 1.62 2.06 2.01 -2.20<br />

Source: TVS – Note: All data based on estimation<br />

According to desk research carried out in <strong>Switzerland</strong>, the following<br />

product groups have the best sales prospects in <strong>Switzerland</strong>:<br />

• Young and trendy Sportswear/Casual wear<br />

• Jeans wear (either branded or on a value for money basis)-<br />

Strict displacement competition<br />

• Well-known street wear brands in the mid price range<br />

• Fashionable products at an ‘acceptable’ price level mainly<br />

offered by chains<br />

• High-end designer brands<br />

• Environmentally friendly apparel<br />

The demand for leisure and casual wear has increased continuously<br />

over the last few years, especially for the sportswear and<br />

‘smart casual’ segment. Additionally, high-end designer lines can<br />

also be quite successful in <strong>Switzerland</strong> with its high standard of<br />

living. An ongoing trend is a demand for natural fabrics. Also ‘functional<br />

clothing’ e.g. with ‘breath-active fabric’ is selling well.<br />

6.2.5 Consumer behaviour<br />

6.2.5.1 Consumer preferences<br />

Swiss consumers can be defined as ‘hybrid consumers’, as in<br />

other countries. Market analysis has shown that generally speaking<br />

the consumers are very well informed about the latest trends<br />

in fashion and can be considered to be both sophisticated and<br />

brand conscious. This is the case especially for people with higher<br />

income and a higher standard of living. It is no surprise that wellknown<br />

clothing brands are popular among Swiss consumers, as<br />

they are considered status symbols. On the other hand, there are<br />

many ‘cheap’ chain stores with a ‘value-for money- concept’ on the<br />

market which reflects the ‘economic sense’ of the Swiss consumer.<br />

Swiss women today can generally be described as fashion oriented<br />

without following all fashion trends immediately. They are<br />

usually sure of their taste and prefer basic and ‘practical’ garments<br />

which can be easily mixed and matched. Swiss women occasionally<br />

engage in impulse buying, but generally prefer to invest in<br />

high quality basics. Working women prefer simple and elegant<br />

garments of high quality and comfort. The formal office outfit for<br />

working women usually consists of an outfit or suit with matching<br />

blouse or shirt. Matching accessories like shawls, belts, handbags<br />

etc. have gained much more importance in the last 2-3 years and<br />

help to ‘freshen-up’ an existing outfit.<br />

Modern Swiss men have changed their attitude to fashion considerably<br />

over the past few years. According to retail trade sources,<br />

the male customers have ‘grown up’ and know what they are looking<br />

for: fashionable and comfortable clothing of good quality. The<br />

level of sophistication in men’s attitude is increasing. Well-known<br />

brand names are very popular, especially among label-conscious<br />

young consumers.<br />

Younger people, in particular, are willing and able to pay high<br />

prices for well-known labels. Casual clothing without a known<br />

label in the mid price bracket is also in demand. In general, buyers<br />

aged 25-50 are the most relevant consumer group for apparel,<br />

representing the target group which spends a high proportion of<br />

disposable income on apparel and shoes. Quality, functionality,<br />

price and design, in that order, are the most important factors for<br />

this target group in taking a buying decision.<br />

6.2.5.2 Consumer expenditures<br />

The Swiss population has one of the highest per capita incomes<br />

in the world. Total expenditure per household grew by an average<br />

of 1.9% from 2005 to 2009, while during the same period expenditure<br />

for clothing and shoes only grew by a yearly average of<br />

1.5%.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 93


The following table shows the developments of the Swiss<br />

household expenditure from 2005 to 2009.<br />

Table 62: Swiss average household expenditures, 2005-2009 [CHF]<br />

2005 2006 2007 2008* 2009* CAGR 05-08<br />

Total 36’049 36’841 37’816 38’282 38’911 1.90%<br />

Clothing and shoes 1’434 1’450 1’512 1’512 1’523 1.50%<br />

% of total 3.98% 3.94% 4.00% 3.95% 3.91% n.a.<br />

Source: BFS – Note: *Data based on estimation<br />

6.2.6 Price development of clothing<br />

For the last few years, the Swiss clothing market has permitted no<br />

significant price increases. Based on stable procurement costs but<br />

increased costs for personnel, rent, energy etc., the margins in all<br />

sectors have the tendency to become smaller. In this respect, the<br />

profit situation has become much worse for companies that are<br />

concentrated on the national market only. Therefore, many manufacturers<br />

are forced to concentrate on high-quality products, niche<br />

marketing, new fashion and exclusive lines or on export markets.<br />

The Swiss price index increased continuously but very slowly from<br />

2005 to 2008 at an average rate of 1.2%. In fact, there has been<br />

practically no inflation in recent years. Prices for clothing and shoes<br />

have decreased since 2005 by an average rate of 2.0%. More<br />

details can be taken from the table below.<br />

Table 63: Swiss national consumer price index, 2005-2008<br />

94<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

2005 2006 2007 2008 CAGR 05-08<br />

Clothing and shoes 92.3 94.1 94.3 98.1 2.00%<br />

Housing and energy 98.7 101.4 103.6 108.6 3.20%<br />

Food, beverages, tobaco 101.3 101.2 101.8 104.9 1.10%<br />

Total national consumer price index 100.0 100.5 101.2 103.7 1.20%<br />

Source: BFS – Note: Index 2005 = 100


6.3 Imports.<br />

6.3.1 Total imports<br />

<strong>Switzerland</strong> has an extremely liberal import regime for textiles<br />

(no import limitations, and some of the lowest import duties in the<br />

world).<br />

Clothing imports have increased from CHF 4.8 billion in 1990 to<br />

CHF 6.3 billion in 2008, this corresponds to a compound annual<br />

growth rate of 1.5%. More details can be taken from the table<br />

below, which shows the clothing import developments into <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />

from 1990 to 2008.<br />

Table 64: Swiss clothing imports, 1990-2008 [CHF billion]<br />

1990 2000 2007 2008 CAGR<br />

90-08<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 4.0 4.4 4.9 4.9 1.10%<br />

Underwear 0.5 0.7 0.8 0.8 2.60%<br />

Accessories 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.5 2.90%<br />

Total 4.8 5.4 6.2 6.3 1.50%<br />

Source: EZV<br />

6.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT)<br />

The outsourcing of local production process to low wage countries<br />

is continuing. Thus, the outward processing trade (OPT) of clothing<br />

manufacturers in <strong>Switzerland</strong> has increased too in the last few<br />

years and contributed to the growth of the Swiss clothing industry.<br />

There are no detailed statistics available for the last few years,<br />

as the import data are no longer specified for OPT and non-OPT<br />

clothing imports. A more detailed analysis is therefore not possible.<br />

6.3.3 Largest suppliers<br />

Table 65 summarises the major countries supplying outerwear to<br />

<strong>Switzerland</strong>. The neighbouring countries Germany and Italy remain<br />

the most important clothing suppliers for <strong>Switzerland</strong>. Almost<br />

55% of the clothing imported originates from these two EU countries.<br />

Professional and advanced marketing by the foreign brands,<br />

quick and easy communication and overnight truck deliveries are<br />

important reasons for this dominant position.<br />

Most of the well known European brands are at least partially produced<br />

or finished in low labour cost countries, whether in Eastern<br />

Europe, North Africa or elsewhere.<br />

The EU remains the by far most important trading partner in<br />

clothing for <strong>Switzerland</strong>. EFTA countries no longer have any importance<br />

as suppliers. The supply from developing countries increases<br />

and has gained competitiveness regarding design, fashion<br />

and qualitative aspects.<br />

Table 65: Largest supplying countries of clothing, 2000-2008 [CHF<br />

million]<br />

Position Country 2000 2007 2008 CAGR 2000-08<br />

1 Germany 1’662.9 1’944.3 1’949.6 2.01%<br />

2 Italy 968.2 1’547.7 1’489.0 5.53%<br />

3 China 627.6 625.7 653.4 0.50%<br />

4 France 486.0 496.5 533.4 1.17%<br />

5 Turkey 147.7 156.3 150.8 0.26%<br />

6 Austria 152.4 146.4 148.1 -0.36%<br />

7 India 113.1 145.4 142.3 2.91%<br />

8 Spain 98.6 124.5 137.7 4.26%<br />

9 Netherlands 76.1 128.5 133.3 7.26%<br />

10 Bangladesh 153.0 106.5 114.1 -3.60%<br />

Total 10 countries 4’485.6 5’421.8 5’451.7 2.47%<br />

Total worldwide 5’396.3 6’241.5 6’280.5 1.91%<br />

Source: EZV<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 95


6.4 Trade structure.<br />

6.4.1 Developments in the retail trade<br />

The liberalization of regulations governing clearance sales in the<br />

retail trade since 1997 has enabled Swiss retailers to initiate sales<br />

all year round, and not just during fixed periods. While smaller<br />

retailers in particular fear that the department stores and other big<br />

clothing stores will continue to put additional pressure on prices<br />

and margins by starting the summer and winter sales earlier each<br />

year, other trade sources mentioned the positive effect the liberalization<br />

has on shops forced to liquidate their goods in order to<br />

renovate or move the store.<br />

The sales volume in the clothing market has shrunk to its lowest<br />

level in the year 2000 and recovered from then on. This recovery is<br />

also due to the cessation of the import/export quotas on January<br />

1st, 2005 which had specially protected the European markets<br />

from cheap imports from China for years.<br />

Those groups who are most investing in clothes at present will<br />

also have the strongest population growth within the coming years,<br />

basically the age group from 35 to 65 years. People of the age<br />

Figure 9: Sales volume index for total sales and clothing sales, 1970 -2008<br />

Source: BFS<br />

96<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

group between 45 and 54 have been strong consumers already<br />

in the past, and this specific age group will influence the market<br />

positively.<br />

In general, the situation of the Swiss clothing retail market remains<br />

difficult, mainly due to more and more competition from foreign<br />

chains (Mango, Zara, H&M, C&A <strong>Switzerland</strong>) but also Swiss<br />

retailers growing stronger like Tally Weijl or Vögele. The specialised<br />

smaller and independent retailers are under pressure and<br />

often can only exist by ‘mixing different labels’ to be attractive for a<br />

specific target group. There is a continuing trend to verticalization<br />

at Swiss retail level, meaning to manage and control the whole<br />

sourcing and distribution process from design of the collection<br />

and production down to the distribution of the product range in<br />

self-owned retail outlets. This sales concept means a strict supply<br />

chain management and is increasingly used also by department<br />

stores and chains like Globus building up their own ‘retail brands’.<br />

The sales volume of the Swiss clothing industry in 2008 reached<br />

about CHF 2.01 billion with a share of 67% for the outerwear<br />

clothing. Local clothing production decreased by 2.2% from 2007<br />

to 2008. Exports also decreased from CHF 2.19 billion in 2007 to<br />

CHF 2.14 billion in 2008 (-2.6%).


6.4.2 Leading retailers<br />

The following clothing retailers are the important stores and shops<br />

in the Swiss market. Price competition is fierce and deemed dangerous<br />

by experts as customers are getting used to special offers.<br />

The biggest market players are H&M, Vögele, C&A <strong>Switzerland</strong>,<br />

Zara, the PKZ Group and department stores such as COOP, Globus,<br />

Migros and Manor.<br />

The Swedish HENNES & MAURITZ is currently the market leader.<br />

Established in <strong>Switzerland</strong> in the year 1978, H&M now operates<br />

73 stores throughout the country. It had a turnover of CHF 846<br />

million in 2009. H&M does not produce itself but has a network of<br />

more than 700 suppliers. 60% of production is placed in Asia. A<br />

key factor in success seems to be the strategy of cost leadership<br />

backed by the globally operating Swedish headquarters.<br />

CHARLES VÖGELE MODE AG is a Swiss-based fashion chain<br />

operating in <strong>Switzerland</strong>, Germany, Austria, Belgium, The Netherlands,<br />

Czech Republic, Poland, Hungary and Slovenia. In 2009,<br />

Vögele had 7'639 employees and 855 sales branches. Group<br />

turnover was CHF 1'689 million € in 2008/09. Vögele’s primary<br />

market strategy traditionally has been low price and still is, though<br />

effort has been made to ensure high quality as well. Two new<br />

corporate sectors have been created; “sourcing” and “new channel<br />

development”. This new sectors will strengthen Vögele's market<br />

position.<br />

CHARLES VÖGELE GROUP does not have production centres<br />

of its own. All clothes are obtained from external suppliers. Most<br />

purchase orders (about 95%) are placed directly with manufacturers<br />

all over the world and produced with Vögele own-labels. By<br />

the vertical organization, the costs are optimized and high quality<br />

standards can be maintained. Vögele runs a clear compliance<br />

strategy, expecting sustainability and responsibility of its suppliers,<br />

e.g. by following certain minimum social standards, environmental<br />

rules and product safety standards. The range consists of women's<br />

wear (59%), men's wear (31%) and children's wear (10%).<br />

The GLOBUS GROUP with its flagship store in Zurich employs<br />

2'630 employees and achieves a total sales volume of about CHF<br />

815 million yearly on a net selling space of 55'800 sq. m. With<br />

a square metre sales volume of over CHF 14'600 per year it is<br />

one of the most productive department stores of the world. The<br />

GLOBUS GROUP belongs to the MIGROS AG. The Migros Group,<br />

which is still operated as a cooperative, is the Swiss market leader<br />

in retailing but not in the clothing market. Migros has over 15% of<br />

Globus' shares.<br />

Migros puts high efforts in sustainability, fair trade and social responsibility<br />

of the company towards its own workers, its suppliers<br />

and society in general (‘Clean Clothes Campaign’). In 2008 the<br />

group's total turnover was CHF 25.75 billion (+13.5%). Migros has<br />

its own sourcing network for clothing all over the world, but also<br />

buys from European based producers and wholesalers.<br />

As of 2009 C&A has 96 stores in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. The market strategy<br />

aims at being a clothing house for the whole family with good<br />

prices and quality. It sells all kind of mid-priced clothing and aims<br />

to extend market share. However, C&A does not buy separately<br />

through their branch in <strong>Switzerland</strong>, but from Düsseldorf/Germany<br />

and the C&A purchasing centre EBSCO in Brussels.<br />

The PKZ GROUP with 495 employees in total owns several<br />

clothing chains. PKZ with 58 stores concentrates on men's wear<br />

with quality clothing of different labels. Burger is a men's wear<br />

shop. Feldpausch focuses on women's wear, Bluedog is a young<br />

fashion casual wear chain. In 2008, PKZ sold goods to more than<br />

1.1 million customers.<br />

The COOP GROUP runs quite varied store formats ranging from<br />

food to non-food and services. Coop offers a unique mix from<br />

branded articles to own brands and special brands (like Coop<br />

‘Naturaplan’). Numerous products of the Coop are from production<br />

plants of their own or from suppliers with whom they work very<br />

closely. The sales volume in the retail business reached CHF 19.3<br />

billion in 2008 which corresponds to a 17.2% of the Swiss market<br />

share. Over 53'000 employees work for the Coop Group.<br />

MANOR is the largest department store chain in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. It<br />

belongs in large part to the Lausanne based family Maus. Other<br />

divisions of the Manor Group are 'Fly' (furniture and home accessories),<br />

'Athleticum' (sports) and 'Jumbo' (Do-it-yourself articles).<br />

The Manor Group is one of the three largest Swiss retailers. The<br />

business employs about 11'000 people altogether. About 2'000<br />

persons are working in the textile division, which represents about<br />

one third of the whole Manor business.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 97


6.4.3 Distribution channels<br />

6.4.3.1 Retailers<br />

The distribution channels are grouped according to their basic<br />

structure into different kinds of retail businesses. More details<br />

about the development of the market share of the retail outlets can<br />

be taken from following table. The data indicates that the textile<br />

specialist stores play a dominant role among the clothing distributors<br />

in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. These specialists had a constant market share<br />

of 55% over the last years. They include chain stores and the<br />

independent retailers / boutiques and other specialised clothing<br />

retailers (including fur and leather wear outlets).<br />

The following Swiss retailers can be assigned to the specific distribution<br />

channels:<br />

• Clothing chains with own labels: Charles Vögele, WE-mode, Benetton,<br />

Hennes + Mauritz, C & A, Kookai, Esprit, Tally Weijl, Yendi,<br />

Chicorée, Pimkie, Orsay, Blackout, Zebra, Schaad Mode, Levi‘s<br />

Store, Mango, Zara<br />

• Clothing retailers with a ‘brand concept’: PKZ/BlueDog/Burger/<br />

Feldpausch, Schild, Beldona, Fein-Kaller, Bongenie-Grieder,<br />

Herren Globus, Spengler<br />

• Department stores: Globus, Manor, Coop, Jelmoli, Loeb, Migros<br />

and other department stores<br />

• Home shopping companies: Cornelia, Heine-Versand, Goldener<br />

Schnitt, Charles Veillon, Ackermann, Spengler, Jelmoli, Vögele,<br />

Damart Versand, Vedia, Bader. Walz and others<br />

• Hyper- and Supermarkets: Migros, Coop, Denner, Aldi Schweiz,<br />

Lidl Schweiz, Spar, Volg<br />

• Other Distributors (sport shops, sport specialist stores, various<br />

distributors) hold a market share of 9%.<br />

Low-price shops are not very popular in <strong>Switzerland</strong> as the consumers<br />

look for more than just low prices. For mid-price apparel,<br />

department stores and mail order companies are still appropriate<br />

and well accepted distribution channels.<br />

98<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Table 66: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]<br />

2001 2004 2009<br />

Specialists<br />

Non-specialists<br />

55 55 55<br />

Department/variety stores 15 13 12<br />

Home shopping companies 11 11 11<br />

Hyper- and supermarkets 10 10 13<br />

Other 9 11 9<br />

Total 100 100 100<br />

Source: TVS<br />

6.4.3.1.1 Specialists<br />

(including textile specialised retailers and clothing chains)<br />

These specialized clothing shops are still the main type of retail<br />

outlet for garments in <strong>Switzerland</strong>, namely chain stores, boutiques<br />

and other specialised clothing retailers. The market share of these<br />

shops has remained stable over the past years at around 55%.<br />

The major distribution channel among the textile specialist retailers<br />

in <strong>Switzerland</strong> are the clothing stores with several outlets.<br />

Apart from the national clothing multiples Vögele, Schild, and<br />

PKZ, there are many foreign retailers present in the Swiss clothing<br />

market.<br />

Several foreign chains that are active in <strong>Switzerland</strong> must be mentioned,<br />

such as the Swedish HENNES & MAURITZ GROUP, the<br />

Spanish retailer ZARA, the German ESPRIT, the Italian fashion<br />

company MAX MARA (aiming at international female shoppers)<br />

and the Danish VERO MODA as well as the Spanish MANGO.<br />

MANGO is a Spanish franchise company owning 13 shops in<br />

<strong>Switzerland</strong>, 1'220 all over the world including online-retailing<br />

(Mango MNG Group).<br />

ZARA is one of eight fashion brands retailers belonging to the<br />

Inditex group which lays stress on high vertical integration as a<br />

strategic factor in competition. Zara first opened in 1975 in Spain<br />

and is now present in over 40 countries with 1'188 stores. All of<br />

them have been designed to create a special atmosphere that will<br />

allow the client to feel the pleasure of buying fashion. The designers<br />

create new fashion that hits the market twice a week.<br />

The turnover was € 9.4 billion (2007) and € 10.4 billion (2008).<br />

Zara's share within the Inditex Group is 65.6%. In <strong>Switzerland</strong>,<br />

Zara has had 10 stores since 2002.


Another new clothing retailer is VERO MODA with 38 shops. Vero<br />

Moda <strong>Switzerland</strong> belongs to ‘Bestseller Wholesale’. Bestseller is<br />

a family-owned clothing company founded in Denmark in 1975.<br />

Today Bestseller comprises 10 brands including Vero Moda.<br />

The Swiss chain TALLY WEIJL is another international ‘textile success<br />

story’. The market target is ‘the woman who likes to be sexy’.<br />

TALLY WEIJL operates 74 shops in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. With a turnover<br />

of 500 mn CHF in 2008 and more than 500 shops in 30 countries,<br />

TALLY WEIJL has become an important player.<br />

Market share: 55%, Trend: Stable at 55%<br />

6.4.3.1.2 Department/variety stores<br />

Department stores play the second most important role among the<br />

distribution channels, with a market share of 12% in 2009. Their<br />

market share has declined since 2001 (15%).<br />

One of the major department stores in <strong>Switzerland</strong> is GLOBUS<br />

AG, a department store with branches in all major Swiss cities,<br />

which sells fashion for men, women and children in the mid and<br />

upper price range, as well as fashion accessories, general consumer<br />

products and food.<br />

Another major Swiss player is the MANOR AG, a department<br />

store with branches in the whole of <strong>Switzerland</strong>, operating clothing<br />

departments for men, women and children in the lower to mid price<br />

category, including fashion accessories and general consumer<br />

products.<br />

The LOEB HOLDING (a traditional family company in Bern) is a<br />

department store with five outlets. Loeb owns several clothing and<br />

non-clothing companies and has a total turnover of CHF 111.4<br />

million (2008/09). The five Loeb department stores only represent<br />

one part of the Loeb Holding.<br />

JELMOLI AG is a department store with significant apparel sales<br />

for men, women and children featuring international brands<br />

concentrated on the mid to upper price range. With its ‘two-line<br />

business strategy’ - retail business and retail real estate business -<br />

Jelmoli has managed to change the original department store into<br />

a successful, growing and profitable specialities retail business<br />

unit. Due to use of synergies at retail level, high profitability has<br />

been achieved.<br />

Market share: 12%, Trend: Declining<br />

99<br />

l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

6.4.3.1.3 Home shopping companies<br />

The mail-order business is the fourth most important retail channel<br />

for clothing in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. The market share of mail-order houses<br />

in <strong>Switzerland</strong> remained stable at 11% over the last years.<br />

Market share: 11%, Trend: Stable<br />

6.4.3.1.4 Hyper- and supermarkets<br />

Hyper- and supermarkets are the second most important retail<br />

channel for clothing after the specialists. The market share in 2009<br />

was 13%.<br />

MIGROS and COOP with their stores are the largest retailers in<br />

<strong>Switzerland</strong>, with activities in super- and hypermarkets.<br />

Denner is the leading Swiss food discounter. Denner has a consistent<br />

discount policy: Lowest prices combined with highest quality<br />

with a limited number of articles.<br />

Aldi steped in the Swiss market in 2005 and achieved in 2009 an<br />

estimated turnover of 900 mn CHF with 100 markets. Aldi is known<br />

mainly as food retailer but offers on a weeky changing base a wide<br />

range of garments at a very low price.<br />

Market share: 13%, Trend: Increasing<br />

6.4.3.1.5 Others<br />

This category primarily includes sport shops, sport specialist<br />

stores, street markets and ex factory sales (directly from the<br />

fashion manufacturer through ‘factory outlet centres’). Another<br />

form of distribution is ‘consumer fairs’. For the manufacturer from<br />

abroad, this target group is very difficult to approach as they normally<br />

do not import on their own. They buy mainly from importers/<br />

wholesalers according to their own specifications.<br />

Market share: 9%, Trend: Stable<br />

6.4.3.2 Sales intermediaries<br />

6.4.3.2.1 Clothing manufacturers<br />

The clothing manufacturers in <strong>Switzerland</strong> face a difficult market<br />

situation. The total turnover of the Swiss clothing industry amounted<br />

to CHF 2.0 billion in 2008.<br />

Swiss clothing manufacturers know the needs of the Swiss customer,<br />

but their domestic production costs are too high to compete


with imports in the lower or mid price range. Thus, most clothing<br />

manufacturers look for production possibilities abroad.<br />

6.4.3.2.2 Central buying associations<br />

One major Swiss central buying association is the ‘Mode Schweiz’<br />

(formerly ‘ez Fashion Center’). It has more than 60 members,<br />

mainly independent retailers. The buying association operates on<br />

the basis of long-term partnerships, often with very close links to<br />

local clothing producers.<br />

The members of the buying-association ‘Inter-Sport’ originate from<br />

the active sportswear and sports articles sector, the organisation<br />

is closely linked to the German based Inter-Sport in Heidelberg.<br />

Some of the Swiss clothing retailers are even members in the<br />

larger German buying associations such as Katag in Bielefeld.<br />

6.4.3.2.3 Sales agents<br />

Sales agents for the Swiss market are normally located in the<br />

country where the clothing is imported from, e.g. in the major<br />

Asian cities like Hong Kong, Singapore, Shanghai, New Delhi or<br />

Istanbul.<br />

The overwhelming part of the buying process is handled by the<br />

importing retailer directly. Clothing manufacturers from abroad<br />

must contact these ‘sourcing offices’ in their respective country or<br />

contact the buyer at the retailer’s or manufacturer’s headquarter<br />

directly in <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />

6.4.3.2.4 Importers / wholesalers<br />

Analysis has revealed that the large majority of Swiss importers<br />

are distributors for foreign European brands selling into <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />

Often, such importers have their own shop or boutique with highpriced<br />

clothing and fear low quality imports. Only a few show some<br />

interest in imports from outside Europe. The situation remains<br />

unchanged, that most of the small retailers/importers are not in the<br />

position to order sufficient quantities, thus orders e.g. from Asia<br />

or South America will not be worthwhile for them. Even middlesized<br />

retailers are sometimes reluctant to do so, but regret at the<br />

same time not having the possibility to source from developing and<br />

emerging countries. Thus, with the general increase of clothing<br />

imports into <strong>Switzerland</strong>, the importance of Swiss wholesalers and<br />

importers has increased and the ‘need’ for imported goods also for<br />

smaller retailers due to the price pressure in the market has generally<br />

increased. The situation is unchanged, that a considerable<br />

share of clothing imports into <strong>Switzerland</strong> is handled by German<br />

importers, as they buy in overseas markets anyway to a very large<br />

extent and can offer the service to neighbouring Swiss retailers as<br />

well.<br />

6.5 Swiss fashion trade fairs.<br />

Reliable trade sources have repeatedly mentioned that the participation<br />

in European fashion trade fairs by manufacturers from<br />

emerging or developing countries, frequently visited by Swiss<br />

buyers, are the best and most efficient way to establish initial<br />

contacts with Swiss wholesalers and distributors.<br />

The most important Swiss trade event for men’s, women’s and<br />

children’s wear at the ‘TMC Fashion Centre’ in Zürich (TMC), it has<br />

a clear national character. Participation in these so called ‘selling<br />

days’ (to the retailers) are restricted to agents running a showroom<br />

in the TMC. The ‘Textile & Mode Center’ (TMC) was set up as a<br />

wholesale centre for textiles and clothing in August 1978.<br />

Swiss buyers, whether they are in charge of department stores,<br />

specialized retailers, importers, Home shopping companies tend<br />

to visit trade fairs mostly for information purposes, but also to find<br />

new contacts.<br />

Clothing fairs in other European countries are quite popular<br />

among Swiss retailers.<br />

Table 67: Swiss fashion trade fairs 2010<br />

Trade fair Date <strong>Location</strong><br />

TMC men 08. - 11.02.2010 Zurich<br />

TMC dessous 15. - 18.02.2010 Zurich<br />

TMC women 15. - 18.02.2010 Zurich<br />

TMC kids 22. - 25.02.2010 Zurich<br />

TMC sport 22. - 04.03.2010 Zurich<br />

TMC sport<br />

Source: Auma, TMC<br />

22. - 04.03.2010 Zurich<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 100


6.6 List of major buyers<br />

in <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />

Clothing multiples<br />

Bernie‘s AG<br />

Postfach 3925<br />

CH - 8021 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 43 244 75 75<br />

Fax: +41 43 244 75 76<br />

www.bernies.ch<br />

Blue Dog<br />

(company: PKZ Feldpausch)<br />

Bahnhofstrasse 46<br />

CH - 8010 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 44 736 33 33<br />

Fax: +41 44 736 33 00<br />

www.bluedog.ch<br />

Bon Genie<br />

Brunschwig & Cie SA<br />

34, rue du Marché<br />

CH - 1204 Genève<br />

Tel.: +41 22 818 11 11<br />

Fax: +41 22 818 11 99<br />

www.bongenie-grieder.ch<br />

Charles Vögele AG<br />

Gwattstrasse 15<br />

CH - 8808 Pfäffikon<br />

Tel.: +41 55 416 71 11<br />

Fax: +41 55 410 37 43<br />

www.voegele.ch<br />

Fein-Kaller & Co. AG<br />

Bachmattstr. 53<br />

CH - 8048 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 44 434 83 83<br />

Fax: +41 44 434 83 43<br />

www.fein-kaller.ch<br />

101 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Product range:<br />

high fashion & casual<br />

Price segment:<br />

high price level<br />

Number of outlets: 5<br />

Product range: Jeans,<br />

sports- and casual wear<br />

Price segment: mid and<br />

high price level<br />

Number of outlets: 12<br />

Note: brand and fashion<br />

oriented – exclusive<br />

retailer<br />

Product range:<br />

all kinds of clothing<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid to high price level<br />

Number of outlets: Bonnard<br />

u. Cie 3<br />

shops, Bon Genie 7,<br />

Grieder 7, 10 boutiques<br />

under Bon Genie<br />

Product range:<br />

all kind of clothing<br />

Price segment:<br />

low price level<br />

Number of outlets: 157<br />

Product range: menswear<br />

and womenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

high price level<br />

Number of outlets: 6<br />

Herren Globus Zentrale<br />

Industriestraße 171<br />

CH - 8957 Spreitenbach<br />

Tel.: +41 58 455 30 30<br />

Fax: +41 58 455 31 88<br />

www.herrenglobus.ch<br />

Jeans & Co. AG<br />

Haldenstr. 1<br />

CH - 6340 Baar<br />

Tel.: +41 41 768 60 50<br />

Fax: +41 41 768 60 59<br />

www.jeans-co.ch<br />

Modehaus MODEVA AG<br />

Muttenzerstr. 109<br />

CH - 4133 Pratteln<br />

Tel.: +41 61 821 91 91<br />

Fax: +41 61 821 92 20<br />

www.modeva.ch<br />

Pasito-Fricker AG<br />

Pfadackerstr. 7<br />

CH - 8957 Spreitenbach<br />

Tel.: +41 56 418 17 77<br />

www.pasito.ch<br />

PKZ Burger-Kehl & Co.<br />

Bahnhofstrasse 46<br />

CH - 8010 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 44 736 33 33<br />

Fax: +41 44 736 33 00<br />

www.pkz.ch<br />

Schaad Mode<br />

Tannewäg 1<br />

CH – 8197 Rafz<br />

www.schaadmode.ch<br />

Schild AG<br />

Zentralverwaltung<br />

CH - 6002 Luzern<br />

Tel.: +41 41 429 55 55<br />

Fax: +41 41 429 57 57<br />

www.schild.ch<br />

Product range: Department<br />

store for men<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid-priced items<br />

Number of outlets: 22<br />

Product range:<br />

casual wear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid price level<br />

Number of outlets: 10<br />

Product range:<br />

womenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

high price level<br />

Number of outlets: 26<br />

Product range: womenswear,<br />

menswear, shoes<br />

Price segment: mid and<br />

high price level<br />

Number of outlets: 18<br />

Product range: all kind of<br />

clothing incl. jeans wear<br />

Price segment: mid and<br />

high price level<br />

Number of outlets: 30<br />

Product range: Women’s<br />

outerwear for best age<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid price level<br />

Number of outlets: 20<br />

Product range: clothing for<br />

men and women<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid price level<br />

Number of outlets: 41


Clothing multiples<br />

TALLY WEIJL Trading AG<br />

Service and Support Center<br />

Viaduktstrasse 42<br />

CH-4051 Basel<br />

Tel: +41 (0)61 568 60 00<br />

Fax: +41 (0)61 568 62 00<br />

contact@tally-weijl.com<br />

www.tally-weijl.com<br />

Wartmann AG<br />

Marktgasse 45 / Postfach<br />

CH - 3001 Bern<br />

Tel.: +41 31 320 18 18<br />

Fax: +41 31 312 16 55<br />

www.mode-wartmann.ch<br />

Table 18: Department stores<br />

Globus AG Headquarter<br />

Eichstrasse 27<br />

CH - 8045 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 44 455 21 11<br />

Fax: +41 44 463 35 02<br />

www.globus.ch<br />

Jelmoli AG<br />

Seidengasse 1<br />

CH - 8001 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 44 220 44 11<br />

Fax: +41 44 220 40 00<br />

www.jelmoli.ch<br />

LOEB AG<br />

Bälliz 39<br />

CH - 3600 Thun<br />

Tel.: +41 33 227 51 51<br />

Fax: +41 33 227 51 52<br />

www.loeb.ch<br />

Product range:<br />

womenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

high price level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

74 (500 worldwide)<br />

Product range:<br />

womenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid price level<br />

Number of outlets: 26<br />

(stores, shops, boutiques<br />

also as a part in other<br />

businesses)<br />

Product range:<br />

all kind of clothing<br />

Price segment: low and<br />

mid price level<br />

Number of stores: 12<br />

Product range: all kind of<br />

clothing and textile<br />

Price segment: mid and<br />

high price level<br />

Number of outlets: 1 large<br />

outlet in Zürich - also<br />

includes mail order<br />

catalogue<br />

Product range:<br />

all kind of products<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid price level<br />

Number of outlets: 10<br />

Manor AG<br />

Rebgasse 34<br />

CH - 4058 Basel<br />

Tel.: +41 61 686 11 11<br />

Fax: +41 61 681 11 92<br />

www.manor.ch<br />

Schaufelberger AG<br />

Bälliz 26<br />

CH - 3600 Thun<br />

Tel.: +41 33 225 37 37<br />

Fax: +41 33 225 37 38<br />

www.schaufelberger-thun.ch<br />

Table 19: Mail order companies<br />

Ackermann Versandhaus AG<br />

Fürstenlandstrasse 35<br />

CH - 9001 St. Gallen<br />

Tel.: +41 848 85 85 11<br />

Fax: +41 848 85 85 12<br />

kundendienst@ackermann.ch<br />

www.ackermann.ch<br />

BON´A PARTE MODE AG<br />

Fürstenlandstrasse 35<br />

CH - 9001 St. Gallen<br />

Tel.: +41 848 44 08 81<br />

Fax: +41 848 44 08 85<br />

www.bonaparte.ch<br />

Happy Size-Company<br />

Versand-handels AG<br />

Postfach<br />

CH - 9025 St. Gallen<br />

Tel.: +41 848 55 66 83<br />

Fax: +41 848 55 66 84<br />

www.happy-size.ch<br />

Heine<br />

Stephanie Lerch<br />

Postfach 8088 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 0848 80 00 60<br />

www.heine.ch<br />

service@heine.ch<br />

Product range:<br />

all kind of clothing<br />

and textile<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid price level<br />

Number of outlets: 80<br />

stores<br />

Product range: men’s and<br />

womenswear, textiles<br />

Price segment: mid level<br />

Product range: professional<br />

wear, ladies’, men’s,<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid price level<br />

Note: no outlets, only mail<br />

order<br />

Product range:<br />

Men’s and womenswear,<br />

boys’ and girls’<br />

Product Range:<br />

men’s and womenswear<br />

Companies: Happy Size<br />

and Men<br />

Product range:<br />

ladies’, men’s, childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid and high<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 102


Table 19: Mail order companies<br />

Jelmoli Versand AG<br />

Postfach<br />

CH - 8088 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 848 840 300<br />

Fax: +41 848 840 305<br />

www.jelmoli.ch<br />

La Redoute CH SA<br />

Rue de la Gare 13<br />

CH - 1820 Montreux 1 VD<br />

Tel.: +41 21 966 50 00<br />

Fax: +41 21 966 50 01<br />

menswear24.ch<br />

Momasi SA<br />

Avenue de la Gare 42<br />

CH - 2800 Delémont<br />

Tel.: +41 79 828 75 77<br />

www.menswear24.ch<br />

Mona Versand GmbH & Co.<br />

Wehrstr. 12<br />

CH - 9202 Gossau<br />

Tel.: +41 71 314 83 00<br />

Fax: +41 71 314 83 09<br />

www.mona.ch<br />

Rotex Versand<br />

Industrie Wet 4042<br />

CH - 4614 Hägendorf<br />

Tel.: +41 62 216 43 43<br />

Fax: +41 62 216 43 45<br />

www.rotex.ch<br />

Spengler Versand AG<br />

Fürstenlandstrasse 35<br />

CH - 9001 St. Gallen<br />

Tel.: +41 71 274 61 61<br />

Fax: +41 71 274 61 62<br />

www.spengler.ch<br />

Tchibo (Schweiz) AG<br />

Industriestrasse 19<br />

CH- 8304 Wallisellen<br />

Tel: +41 (0)43/233 45 00<br />

Fax: +41 (0)43/233 45 90<br />

kundenservice@tchibo.ch<br />

www.tchibo.ch<br />

103 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Product range: all kinds of<br />

clothing and textile<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid and high<br />

Product range: ladies’,<br />

men’s, childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid and high<br />

Product range: Menswear<br />

Product range:<br />

ladies’, menswear<br />

Product range:<br />

professional wear, leisure<br />

wear<br />

Product range: all kind of<br />

clothing and textile<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid price level<br />

Product range: ladies’,<br />

men’s, childrenswear<br />

Forecast for 2010: 100<br />

shop-in-shops with COOP<br />

Veillon SA<br />

Route de Buyère 2<br />

CH - 1017 Lausanne<br />

Tel.: +41 21 706 92 17<br />

Fax: +41 21 706 98 14<br />

www.veillon.ch<br />

Vögele AG<br />

Gwattstrasse 15<br />

CH - 8808 Pfäffikon<br />

Tel.: +41 55 416 71 11<br />

Fax: +41 55 410 37 43<br />

www.voegele.ch<br />

Wullehus-Mode Versandhaus<br />

AG<br />

Emmentalstr. 4<br />

CH - 3510 Konolfingen<br />

Tel.: +41 31 791 01 47<br />

Fax: +41 31 791 10 19<br />

www.wullehus.ch<br />

Grocery super- and hypermarkets<br />

Aldi Suisse Ag<br />

Zentraleinkauf<br />

Verwaltungsgebäude Z<br />

Postfach 150<br />

CH-8423 Embrach-Embraport<br />

www.aldi-suisse.ch<br />

COOP Schweiz<br />

Thiersteiner Allee 12<br />

CH - 4002 Basel<br />

Tel.: +41-61 336 66 66<br />

Fax: +41-61 336 60 40<br />

www.coop.ch<br />

Denner AG Zentrale<br />

Grubenstrasse 10<br />

CH - 8045 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 44 455 11 11<br />

www.denner.ch<br />

Product range: ladies’,<br />

men’s, childrenswear<br />

Product range:<br />

all kind of clothing<br />

Price segment: low price<br />

level<br />

Product range:<br />

all kind of clothing<br />

for age group 40+ as<br />

target group<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid price level<br />

Number of outlets: 4<br />

shops + mail order<br />

Product range:<br />

high fashion & casual<br />

Price segment:<br />

low price level<br />

Number of outlets: 100<br />

Product range:<br />

all kind of products<br />

Price segment: low and<br />

mid price level<br />

Number of outlets: 11<br />

department<br />

stores, more than 1’700<br />

shops<br />

Number of outlets in CH:<br />

430 stores and 300 indivivual<br />

retail traders


Grocery super- and hypermarkets<br />

Jumbo Markt AG<br />

Industriestrasse 33<br />

CH - 8305 Dietlikon<br />

Tel.: +41 44 805 54 54<br />

Fax: +41 44 805 54 50<br />

www.jumbo.ch<br />

Lidl Schweiz DL GmbH,<br />

Neckarsulm<br />

Zweigniederlassung Weinfelden<br />

Dunantstrasse 14<br />

CH - 8570 Weinfelden<br />

www.lidl.ch<br />

Migros-Genossenschaft-<br />

Bund<br />

Limmatstrasse 152<br />

CH - 8005 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 44 277 21 11<br />

Fax: +41 44 277 25 25<br />

www.migros.ch<br />

Swiss clothing manufacturers<br />

Algo S.A.<br />

Badenerstrasse 274<br />

CH - 8004 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 44 240 41 66<br />

Fax: +41 44 240 41 67<br />

www.algosa.ch<br />

(high priced womenswear)<br />

Akris Hauptsitz<br />

Felsenstrasse 40<br />

CH-9001 St.Gallen<br />

Schweiz<br />

Telefon +41 71 22 777 22<br />

Fax +41 71 22 777 00<br />

www.akris.ch<br />

akris@akris.ch<br />

(very high priced womenswear)<br />

Product range:<br />

all kinds of clothing<br />

Price segment: very low<br />

price level<br />

Number of outlets: 39<br />

Product range:<br />

all kinds of clothing<br />

Price segment: low price<br />

range with own brands<br />

Number of fashion outlets:<br />

30<br />

Forecast until end of<br />

2010: another 30<br />

Product range:<br />

all kinds of clothing<br />

Price segment: low price<br />

range with own brands<br />

Number of fashion outlets:<br />

134<br />

10 Migros Co-operative<br />

societies<br />

Ajotex SA<br />

Route de Coeuve 37-41<br />

CH - 2900 Porrentruy<br />

Tel.: +41 32 465 89 89<br />

Fax: +41 32 465 89 85<br />

www.jic.ch/ajotex<br />

(men / women / child wear)<br />

alba Albin Breitenmoser<br />

AG<br />

Zielstrasse 38<br />

CH - 9050 Appenzell<br />

Tel.: +41 71 788 91 11<br />

Fax: +41 71 787 46 58<br />

info@alba-creation.ch<br />

www.alba-gruppe.ch<br />

(Professional clothes)<br />

Alumo Textil AG<br />

Zielstrasse 38<br />

CH - 9050 Appenzell<br />

Tel.: +41 71 788 91 55<br />

Fax: +41 71 788 91 54<br />

www.alumo.ch<br />

(produces shirts)<br />

Angéloz Michel SA<br />

Route de l’Industrie 3<br />

CH - 1680 Romont<br />

Tel.: +41 26 651 92 80<br />

Fax: +41 26 651 92 89<br />

www.michelangeloz.ch<br />

info@michelangeloz.ch<br />

(mid-priced menswear and<br />

womenswear)<br />

Blumer F. & Cie. AG<br />

Industrie Mühle 19<br />

CH - 8762 Schwanden GL<br />

Tel.: +41 55 644 11 17<br />

Fax: +41 55 644 39 49<br />

info@f-blumer.ch<br />

www.f-blumer.ch<br />

(men’s, women’s, childrenswear)<br />

Brülisauer SA<br />

Via motta 45<br />

CH - 6850 Mendrisio<br />

Tel.: +41 91 640 64 40<br />

Fax: +41 91 640 64 44<br />

www.bruli.com<br />

info@bruli.com<br />

(menswear)<br />

Calida AG Bodywear<br />

Industrie Münigen,<br />

CH - 6210 Sursee<br />

Tel.: +41 41 925 45 25<br />

Fax: +41 41 925 42 84<br />

www.calida.com<br />

info@calida.com<br />

(men’s, women’s and<br />

children’s<br />

under- and nightwear)<br />

a ma chère AG<br />

Dufourstrasse 167<br />

8008 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 43 456 30 01<br />

Fax. +41 43 456 30 09<br />

info@a-ma-chere.ch<br />

www.a-ma-chere.ch<br />

Beca Ferretti SA<br />

Via della Posta-Zona 2<br />

CP 257<br />

CH - 6934 Bioggio<br />

Tel.: +41 91 605 57 76<br />

Fax: +49 91 604 67 87<br />

info@becaferretti.ch<br />

www.becaferretti.ch<br />

(menswear, professional<br />

clothes)<br />

Boller, Winkler AG<br />

(no street name)<br />

CH - 8488 Turbenthal<br />

Tel.: +41 52 396 22 22<br />

Fax: +41 52 396 22 00<br />

www.bonjour.ch<br />

(clothing and other textiles)<br />

Braunschweig P. & R. AG<br />

Badener Strasse 120<br />

CH - 8026 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 44 241 97 30<br />

Fax: +41 44 242 94 28<br />

(mid- and high-priced coats<br />

and<br />

jackets for women)<br />

Camiro sagl<br />

Strada Cantonale<br />

CH - 6863 Besazio<br />

Tel.: +49 91 646 61 18<br />

Fax: +49 91 646 69 95<br />

camiro@starsofti.com<br />

(menswear)<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 104


Swiss clothing manufacturers<br />

Cavalco Confezioni SA<br />

Via Industria 7<br />

CH - 6826 Riva San Vitale<br />

Tel.: +41 91 648 22 63<br />

Fax: +41 91 648 23 64<br />

www.cavalco.ch<br />

(menswear)<br />

Consitex SA (belongs to Ermenegildo<br />

ZEGNA-Groupe)<br />

Via Laveggio 16,<br />

Casella postale 155<br />

CH- 6850 Mendrisio<br />

Tel.: +41 091 640 76 00<br />

Fax: +41 091 640 76 19<br />

direzione_consitex@zegnaermenegildo.it<br />

www.zegna.com<br />

(high priced menswear)<br />

Dürsteler J. & Co. AG<br />

Zürcherstrasse 47<br />

CH - 8620 Wetzikon<br />

Tel.: +41 44 933 60 70<br />

Fax: +41 44 933 60 71<br />

www.faerben.ch<br />

info@faerben.ch<br />

(men’s, women’s and childrenswear)<br />

Feldinger Gabriel AG<br />

Lettenweg 40<br />

CH - 4123 Allschwil<br />

Tel.: +41 61 481 05 05<br />

Fax: +41 61 481 05 39<br />

(mid-priced items womenswear)<br />

Ganzoni & Cie AG<br />

Gröblistrasse 8<br />

CH - 9014 St. Gallen<br />

Tel.: +41 71 279 33 66<br />

Fax: +41 71 274 29 89<br />

www.sigvaris.com<br />

info@sigvaris.com<br />

(men’s, women’s and childrenswear)<br />

105 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Conceprio SA<br />

Corzoneso Piano<br />

CH - 6715 Dongio<br />

Tel.: +41 91 871 12 43<br />

Fax: +41 91 871 25 31<br />

Conceprio.sa@bluewin.ch<br />

(men’s and womenswear)<br />

Dresdensia SA<br />

Via Fola 13<br />

CH - 6963 Pregassona<br />

Tel.: +41 91 971 60 63<br />

Fax: +41 91 971 11 52<br />

(men’s and childrenswear)<br />

Fabric Frontline Zurich AG<br />

Ankerstrasse 118<br />

CH - 8026 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 44 241 64 55<br />

Fax: +41 44 242 20 02<br />

www.fabricfrontline.ch<br />

info@fabricfrontline.ch<br />

(men’s and womenswear)<br />

Filtex AG<br />

Teufenerstrasse 1<br />

CH - 9001 St. Gallen<br />

Tel.: +41 71 221 13 13<br />

Fax: +41 71 221 13 14<br />

www.filtex.ch<br />

info@filtex.ch<br />

(women’s and childrenswear)<br />

Gessner AG<br />

Florhofstrasse 13<br />

CH - 8820 Wädenswil<br />

Tel.: +41 44 789 86 00<br />

Fax: +41 44 789 86 01<br />

www.gessner.ch<br />

info@gessner.ch<br />

(womenswear)<br />

Hagmann Hosenmode AG<br />

Industriestrasse 9<br />

CH - 4657 Dulliken<br />

Tel.: +41 62 285 55 55<br />

Fax: +41 62 285 55 69<br />

www.hagman.ch<br />

info@hagman.ch<br />

(menswear, especially<br />

trousers)<br />

Herz Heinrich AG Julietta<br />

Via Campagna 21<br />

CH - 6987 Caslano<br />

Tel.: +41 91 606 73 43<br />

Fax: +41 91 606 21 60<br />

www.heinrichherz.ch<br />

(womenswear)<br />

Hugo Boss Industries<br />

Via Passeggiata 7<br />

CH - 6883 Novazzano<br />

Tel.: +41 91 696 17 17<br />

Fax: +41 91 696 17 78<br />

www.hugoboss.com<br />

info@hugoboss.com<br />

(menswear)<br />

Kauf AG – The Swiss Shirt<br />

Maker<br />

Rosenbüelstrasse 50<br />

CH - 9642 Ebnat-Kappel<br />

Tel.: +41 71 992 60 60<br />

Fax: +41 71 992 60 65<br />

www.kauf.ch<br />

info@kauf.ch<br />

(shirts for department stores<br />

and mail-order comp.)<br />

leywa GmbH<br />

Fabrikstrasse<br />

CH - 8756 Mitlödi<br />

Tel.: +41 55 644 46 46<br />

Fax: +41 55 644 46 47<br />

www.leywa.ch<br />

(men’s, women’s and childrenswear)<br />

Hanro Ag<br />

BenzburGeg 18<br />

CH - 4410 Liestal 18<br />

Tel.: +41 61 926 88 22<br />

Fax: +41 61 926 88 27<br />

www.hanro.ch<br />

info@hanro.ch<br />

(men’s and women’s under-<br />

and nightwear)<br />

Hofmann + Co AG Krawattenfabrik<br />

Im Eisernen Zeit 51<br />

CH - 8057 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 44 362 37 54<br />

Fax: +41 44 362 37 19<br />

www.hofmannties.ch<br />

(men’s accessories and ties)<br />

ISA Sallmann AG<br />

Weinfelderstrasse 15<br />

CH - 8580 Amriswil<br />

Tel.: +41 71 414 24 44<br />

Fax: +41 71 414 24 55<br />

www.isabodywear.ch<br />

(men’s, women’s and childrenswear)<br />

Lehsa Strickwarenfabrik<br />

Eichenweg 16<br />

CH - 4900 Langenthal<br />

Tel.: +41 62 922 50 44<br />

Fax: +41 62 923 08 38<br />

www.lehsa.ch<br />

(men’s and women’s knitwear)<br />

Madie’s Fashion S.A.<br />

Via Gaggiolo 5<br />

CH - 6855 Stabio<br />

Tel.: +41 91 647 11 53<br />

Fax: +41 91 647 32 53<br />

(womenswear)


Swiss clothing manufacturers<br />

Mammut Sports Group AG<br />

Headoffice <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />

Pf, Birren 5<br />

CH-5703 Seon<br />

Tel. +41 (0) 62 769 81 81<br />

Fax. +41 (0) 62 769 83 11<br />

www.mammutsportsgroup.<br />

com<br />

www.mammut.ch<br />

www.toko.ch<br />

(sportswear, outdoor jackets)<br />

Mitloedi Textildruck AG<br />

Fabrikstrasse<br />

CH - 8756 Mitlödi<br />

Tel.: +41 55 647 88 33<br />

Fax: +41 55 647 88 13<br />

www.mitloedi.com<br />

mail@mitloedi.com<br />

(womenswear)<br />

Strellson AG<br />

Sonnenwiesenstrasse 21<br />

CH - 8280 Kreuzlingen<br />

Tel.: +41 71 686 33 33<br />

Fax: +41 71 688 64 94<br />

www.strellson.com<br />

(high priced men’s and<br />

womenswear)<br />

TOPA Konfektions AG<br />

Birkenstrasse 109<br />

CH - 9443 Widnau<br />

Tel.: +41 71 720 03 05<br />

Fax: +41 71 720 03 07<br />

www.topa-ag.com<br />

(men’s, women’s and childrenswear,<br />

OPT)<br />

Vollmoeller Textil AG /<br />

Jockey International<br />

Bahnstrasse 21<br />

CH - 8610 Uster<br />

Tel.: +41 44 905 22 22<br />

Fax: +41 44 940 53 33<br />

www.jockey.ch<br />

(men’s and women’s wear)<br />

Metzler <strong>Switzerland</strong> & Co.<br />

AG<br />

Hauptstrasse 33<br />

CH - 9436 Balgach<br />

Tel.: +41 71 722 21 43<br />

Fax: +41 71 722 72 29<br />

www.metzlerhemdem.ch<br />

(shirts and blouses, T-shirts<br />

& sweatshirts for indep.)<br />

Noga Mode S.A.<br />

Via Orti 1<br />

CH - 6928 Manno<br />

Tel.: +41 91 605 48 88<br />

Fax: +41 91 605 48 88<br />

www.nogamode.com<br />

(men’s and women’s wear)<br />

SwissTex Logistics AG<br />

Funkenstrasse 10<br />

CH - 4800 Zofingen<br />

Tel.: +41 62 745 33 33<br />

Fax: +41 62 745 33 00<br />

www.swisstex.net<br />

(menswear and womenswear)<br />

Traxler AG<br />

Unterdorf 7<br />

CH - 8363 Bichelsee<br />

Tel.: +41 71 971 19 43<br />

Fax: +41 71 971 31 29<br />

www.traxler.ch<br />

(knitwear, shirts/blouses,<br />

ecological<br />

clothing men/women)<br />

Zewi und Bébé-Jou AG<br />

Knonauerstr. 58<br />

CH - 6330 Cham<br />

Tel.: +41 41 784 10 00<br />

Fax: +41 41 784 10 01<br />

www.zewiundbebe-jou.ch<br />

info@zewiundbebe-jou.ch<br />

(mid- / high-priced coats<br />

and jakkets for children)<br />

Zimmerli Textil AG<br />

Feldstrasse 25<br />

CH - 4663 Aarburg<br />

Tel.: +41 62 791 41 41<br />

Fax: +41 62 791 38 72<br />

www.zimmerli.biz<br />

(high priced underwear)<br />

Buying associations<br />

ez Fashion Center<br />

TMC 3<br />

Talackerstrasse 13<br />

CH - 8065 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 44 874 90 10<br />

Fax: +41 44 874 90 19<br />

www.ezfashion.ch<br />

Pandinavia Import Export<br />

Spitalackerstrasse 63<br />

CH - 3000 Bern 25<br />

Tel.: +41 31 331 40 32<br />

Fax: +41 31 333 06 93<br />

www.pandinavia.ch<br />

info@pandinavia.ch<br />

(Importer/Distributor of men’s<br />

apparel)<br />

Importers / wholesalers<br />

WE <strong>Switzerland</strong> AG<br />

Im Langacker 16<br />

CH - 5405 Baden-Dättwil<br />

Tel.: +41 56 483 03 83<br />

Fax: +41 56 483 03 70<br />

www.we-fashion.com<br />

(Importer/Distributor of men‘s<br />

apparel, Dutch owned company)<br />

Intersport International<br />

Holding AG<br />

Obere Zollgasse 7<br />

CH - 3072 Ostermundigen<br />

Tel.: +41 31 930 71 11<br />

Fax: +41 31 930 71 21<br />

www.intersport.ch<br />

info@intersport.ch<br />

(jeans and active sportswear<br />

in mid price level)<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 106


7. United Kingdom.<br />

7.1 General economic situation.<br />

The UK entered a recession in Q2 of 2008, according to the UK<br />

Office of National Statistics (ONS). The revised ONS figures of<br />

November 2009 showed that the UK had suffered six consecutive<br />

quarters of negative growth. As of the end of November 2009, the<br />

economy had shrunk by 5.8%, making the 2008-2009 recession<br />

the longest since records began. In December 2009, the Office<br />

of National Statistics revised figures for the third quarter of 2009<br />

showed that the economy shrank by 0.2%, compared to a 0.6%<br />

fall the previous quarter.<br />

Britain is lagging behind other major economies including Germany,<br />

France, Japan, and the US which all returned to growth in<br />

the second quarter of 2009. Commentators suggest that the UK is<br />

suffering a longer recession than other large European countries,<br />

as a result of government policy dating back to the policies of the<br />

Thatcher government of 1979, in which UK governments have moved<br />

away from supporting manufacturing and focused on the financial<br />

sector. The OECD predicts that the UK will grow 1.6% in 2010.<br />

107 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

The unemployment rate recorded by the Labour Force Survey fell<br />

in the fourth quarter of 2009, the first of the big 3 economies in the<br />

EU to do so. On January 26, 2010, it was confirmed that the U.K.<br />

had left its recession, the last major economy in the world to do so.<br />

7.2 The market for outerwear.<br />

7.2.1 Market size<br />

The UK remained the second biggest clothing market in the EU<br />

behind Germany. UK consumers, along with Austrian citizens,<br />

belong to the biggest spenders per capita on clothing in the EU.<br />

While the import increased, the export market decreased in 2008,<br />

the local production stagnated. However, it seems very likely that<br />

the local production and employment will fall in the coming years<br />

and imports will continue to rise.<br />

The British clothing market has a volume of approximately €<br />

51 billion in 2009. Compared to 2008 the market shrunk by -2.8%.<br />

Table 68: Consumption of clothing in the United Kingdom ,<br />

2004 – 2009 [€ billion]<br />

2004 2006 2008 2009* CAGR 04-09<br />

Knitted outerwear 19.83 20.81 21.58 20.98 1.1%<br />

Woven outerwear 22.75 24.31 25.13 24.37 1.4%<br />

Total outerwear 42.58 45.12 46.71 45.35 1.3%<br />

Clothing others 5.64 5.5 5.79 5.68 0.1%<br />

Total clothing 48.22 50.62 52.5 51.03 1.1%<br />

Source: Eurostat and Euromonitor – Note: *forecast<br />

7.2.2 Market characteristics<br />

A large proportion of British consumers has become more price<br />

sensitive under the slogan: ‘Look good – pay less’. This attitude<br />

towards clothing consumption explains to a large extent the<br />

overwhelming success of the so called British ‘Value Retailers’.<br />

However, some consumers are also willing to buy higher priced<br />

and exclusive clothing.<br />

Most consumers with high income are normally in the age group<br />

between 50 and 60 and manufacturers offering highest quality<br />

garments meet a strong and ever growing market segment in the<br />

UK.


Good quality is also of increasing relevance to the younger consumers.<br />

This is underlined by the fact that clothing brands are of the<br />

same importance to the young as to elderly consumers, although<br />

the younger consumers often can not afford the branded items.<br />

Whenever their financial situation allows (often due to the wealth<br />

of their parents) the young like to buy brands (e.g. for jeans) and<br />

are eager to show their fashion awareness.<br />

7.2.3 Demographic characteristics<br />

The UK has a population of 61.0 million inhabitants with slight<br />

increases in population projected for the next 10 years. The age<br />

structure indicates the most suitable consumer groups to address<br />

for the respective product segment.<br />

Figure 10: Age structure of British population by gender, 2008<br />

Source: US Census Bureau, International Data Base<br />

10 0 +<br />

9 5 - 9 9<br />

9 0 - 9 4<br />

8 5 - 9 0<br />

8 0 - 8 5<br />

75 -79<br />

70 -74<br />

6 5 - 6 9<br />

6 0 - 6 4<br />

5 5 - 59<br />

50 - 5 4<br />

4 5 - 49<br />

4 0 - 4 4<br />

3 5 - 3 9<br />

3 0 - 3 4<br />

25 -29<br />

20 -24<br />

15 -19<br />

10 -14<br />

5 - 9<br />

0 - 4<br />

Population in millions<br />

Market developments in terms of shifts in the age groups can be<br />

predicted. These demographic forecasts may give hints on how to<br />

address the age group concerning design and marketing. Also, the<br />

kinds of clothing requested may change in the future regarding general<br />

demand, quality, suitability, comfort standards, basic designs<br />

and colours.<br />

The age groups between 35 and 39 have the highest shares in the<br />

British population today. But the older age groups of 45 to 49 also<br />

play a significant role. In future, the younger consumer segment<br />

will decrease more and more.<br />

Manufacturers from abroad should not neglect the increasing ‘age<br />

group’ of over 39 up to 59 years of age. More details about the<br />

shares and developments of the age groups concerned can be<br />

taken from the following figure.<br />

male female<br />

2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5<br />

7.2.4 Retail sales by product category<br />

The British market for outerwear shows that the turnover for<br />

women's wear is almost double level compared to men's wear.<br />

As indicated in the table below the retail sales of outerwear<br />

clothing in the UK amounted to a total of approximately € 51<br />

billion in 2009 with a CAGR of 1.3% from 2004 to 2009. The total<br />

clothing retail sales have risen with a CAGR of 1.1% from € 48<br />

billion in 2004 to € 51 billion in 2009.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 108


Table 69: Turnover of outerwear clothing by gender, 2004 and 2008<br />

109 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

2004 2006 2008 2009* CAGR 04-09<br />

Women‘s outerwear 22.61 24.14 24.89 24.19 1.4%<br />

Men’s outerwear 13.33 13.93 14.51 14.06 1.1%<br />

Children’s outerwear 6.64 7.05 7.31 7.10 1.3%<br />

Total outerwear 42.58 45.12 46.71 45.35 1.3%<br />

Total others 5.64 5.50 5.79 5.68 0.1%<br />

Total clothing 48.22 50.62 52.50 51.03 1.1%<br />

Source: Analysis based on Eurostat and Euromonitor – Note: *forecast<br />

7.2.5 Consumer behaviour<br />

7.2.5.1 Consumer preferences<br />

British women are fashion-conscious and stylish. This leads to an<br />

interest in and desire for new and innovative styles of clothing. The<br />

influence of media, especially magazines, TV and Internet, make<br />

consumers more conscious of the latest fashion trends and prices,<br />

so they are better informed to make a choice than before.<br />

Recent years have seen a trend towards purchasing casual wear<br />

for the office and leisurewear for home, and away from buying<br />

formal wear.<br />

The children’s clothing market is strongly shaped by adult fashion,<br />

with some styles being miniaturised versions of adult ranges. Meanwhile<br />

youth styles and fashions are opening up a new children’s<br />

niche, with its own characteristics and inspirations. Influences on<br />

children’s fashion from the sports world and the entertainment<br />

sector will continue, even from an increasingly young age.<br />

Although formal wear is more and more substituted by casual<br />

wear, as in other European countries, the UK is still the country<br />

with the highest market share of formal wear. As the table below<br />

shows, the share of formal clothing is at a comparatively high level<br />

of 39% for women and 38% for men. In this context, it should also<br />

be mentioned that in the segment of children‘s clothing, formal<br />

wear is also strong because of the use of school uniforms in Great<br />

Britain.<br />

Casual wear and basic leisurewear in particular have - compared<br />

to other European countries - lesser but increasing importance<br />

among British consumers.<br />

Table 70: Share of outerwear by gender and type, 2004 and 2008<br />

Women Men Children<br />

2004 2008 2004 2008 2004 2008<br />

Formal 40% 39% 39% 38% 19% 18%<br />

Casual 37% 38% 33% 34% 69% 70%<br />

Leisure 17% 18% 21% 21% -* -*<br />

Active sports 6% 5% 7% 7% 12% 12%<br />

Total 100% 100% 100% 100% 100% 100%<br />

Source: Analysis based on Eurostat and Euromonitor – Note: *Included in casual wear


7.2.5.2 Consumer expenditure<br />

The UK remained the second biggest clothing market in the EU<br />

behind Germany. UK consumers, along with Austrian citizens,<br />

belong to the biggest spenders per capita on clothing in the EU.<br />

The next table illustrates household expenditure by the age of the<br />

household reference person. The figures indicate that for men,<br />

expenditure on clothing rises with age, but seems to be quite constant<br />

especially for men between 30 and 64, and only falls again at<br />

a higher age. Expenditure for women‘s outerwear is not only higher<br />

in all age categories than for men, but also shows a different life<br />

Less than<br />

30<br />

30 – 49 50 – 64 65 – 74 75<br />

or over<br />

All households Expenditure share<br />

Women‘s outerwear 7.10 8.80 9.80 4.80 3.30 7.60 52.4%<br />

Men’s outerwear 6.20 5.60 5.10 2.60 1.10 4.50 31.0%<br />

Girls’ outerwear 0.50 1.80 0.60 0.40 0.10 1.00 6.9%<br />

Boys’ outerwear 0.40 1.50 0.40 0.20 0.10 0.80 5.6%<br />

Infants’ outerwear 1.10 1.00 0.40 0.30 0.10 0.60 4.1%<br />

Source: ONS<br />

Clothing and shoes<br />

per household<br />

cycle pattern. Between the age of 30 and 49, average weekly<br />

expenditure is £8.80, between 50 and 64, women’s expenditure<br />

shows nearly the same level at £9.80 weekly. Assuming that the<br />

age of the reference person of the household stands for the age of<br />

the female consumer, it means that 50 to 64 year old women is the<br />

age category with the highest expenditure on clothing. The reason<br />

for this could be sales of luxury items for wealthy clientèle in shops<br />

like Burberry‘s, Barbour and Pringle.<br />

Table 71: Weekly household expenditure by age of household<br />

reference person, 2008 [£]<br />

The next table clearly shows that total expenditure per household<br />

has increased with a CAGR of 2.8% over the last years. Expenditure<br />

on clothing and shoes only increased with a CAGR of 0.9%<br />

over the same period, thus decreasing the share of clothing and<br />

shoes expenditure per household.<br />

Table 72: Average yearly expenditure per household,<br />

2008 [£, 2.4 persons per household]<br />

2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009* CAGR<br />

04-09<br />

2’010 2’045 2’068 2’098 2’099 2’101 0.9%<br />

% of total 5.6% 5.6% 5.4% 5.3% 5.2% 5.1%<br />

Total 35’601 36’838 37’985 39’538 40’598 40’819 2.8%<br />

Source: Analysis based on ONS – Note: *estimation<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 110


7.2.6 Price development of clothing<br />

Clothing prices have been declining since the mid 90’s. The fierce<br />

competition on the UK clothing market has brought down prices<br />

year after year. In most outerwear sectors consumers buy more<br />

items, but the growth of the clothing market in value is lower due to<br />

price deflation.<br />

111 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

The following table clearly shows the drop of prices in the clothing<br />

and shoe segment. The CAGR for clothing and shoes is -5.6%<br />

from 2004 to 2009, while Housing, water and fuels and all other<br />

Table 73: Price indices for clothing and shoes, 2004-2009<br />

2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 CAGR 04-09<br />

Clothing and shoes 105.6 100.0 95.8 92.1 86.0 79.2 -5.6%<br />

Housing, water and fuels 94.1 100.0 109.2 114.7 124.5 129.9 6.7%<br />

All items 98.0 100.0 102.3 104.7 108.5 110.8 2.5%<br />

Source: ONS<br />

7.3 Imports.<br />

The UK is the second largest EU importer in terms of value. As<br />

a logical consequence, the ‘Overseas Trade Statistics’ show that<br />

imports for women's and men’s clothing continuously increased<br />

over the last few years. Although the import level of women's wear<br />

is higher than for men's wear, imports of men’s clothing seem to<br />

have grown stronger.<br />

Looking at the total figures in table 74 and table 75, the import<br />

share of women‘s clothing in total imports is higher than that for<br />

men mainly due to a generally higher consumption of women‘s<br />

clothing. Overall outerwear clothing imports (knitted and woven)<br />

have shrunk by -7.7% from 2006 to 2008. Extra EU imports shrunk<br />

by -0.4% in the same time period, thus increasing its share from<br />

69.8% in 2006 to 75.4% in 2008. This is also the main reason for<br />

the constant depreciation in clothing price over the last years.<br />

Table 74 illustrates the import developments of knitted outerwear<br />

from 2006 to 2008. Total import for knitted men's clothing outerwear<br />

decreased by -18.4% from 2006 to 2008. Extra EU imports<br />

also decreased by a double digit percentage (-12%). Category<br />

61.05 (shirts) had the largest loss with almost -22%.<br />

The imports of knitted outerwear for women or girls have also<br />

decreased from 2006 to 2008 by -1.8%. Extra EU imports increased<br />

by more than 14% in the same time period, thus increasing its<br />

import share from 65.9% in 2006 to 76.7% in 2008.<br />

The total import of knitted products decreased in terms of value<br />

from 2006 to 2008 by approx. -6%. The share of knitted outerwear<br />

imported from countries outside the EU is constantly increasing<br />

and almost reached 80% in 2008.


Table 74: Imports of knitted outerwear by gender and product<br />

categories, 2006-2008<br />

2006 2007 2008<br />

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />

For men or boys<br />

Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.01) 3’956 63’968 4’270 59’721 4’595 60’943<br />

Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts etc.<br />

(61.03)<br />

15’893 238’259 15’952 214’657 16’564 197’543<br />

Shirts (61.05) 27’722 382’111 25’713 350’661 23’395 299’668<br />

Sub Total 47’570 684’338 45’935 625’039 44’553 558’154<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

For women or girls<br />

40’950 491’269 41’041 473’946 40’594 432’165<br />

Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.02) 8’677 121’313 7’240 95’603 10’382 102’752<br />

Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, dresses,<br />

skirts etc. (61.04)<br />

35’681 579’449 43’510 687’999 38’180 582’970<br />

Blouses and shirts (61.06) 12’129 236’128 22’757 266’213 14’586 234’193<br />

Sub Total 56’487 936’890 73’507 1’049’816 63’148 919’915<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

For both genders<br />

40’388 617’320 51’110 766’340 52’079 705’281<br />

T-shirts, singlets etc. (61.09) 144’336 2’065’244 144’790 2’055’105 133’838 1’737’809<br />

Jersey, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats,<br />

etc. (61.10)<br />

115’833 2’039’585 147’660 2’047’889 135’994 2’146’773<br />

Babies’ garments (61.11) 22’069 329’277 24’398 341’130 26’095 337’135<br />

Garments rubberised, impregnated, etc.<br />

(61.13)<br />

1’248 20’260 1’114 19’013 1’457 23’237<br />

Gloves, mittens and mitts (61.16) 13’294 98’842 12’256 89’997 12’232 85’941<br />

Other made-up clothing accessories<br />

(61.17)<br />

5’670 77’116 4’745 67’368 5’032 69’795<br />

Sub Total 302’450 4’630’324 334’961 4’620’503 314’648 4’400’691<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

Active Sportswear<br />

256’103 3’504’593 266’336 3’609’066 274’144 3’538’025<br />

Track suits, ski suits and swimwear (61.12) 7’074 176’175 8’333 184’808 7’378 150’937<br />

Special garments for professional sporting<br />

or other purposes (61.14)<br />

10’859 113’593 13’480 144’034 10’169 127’842<br />

Sub Total 17’933 289’768 21’813 328’842 17’547 278’779<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 11’881 212’889 17’232 254’978 15’330 220’458<br />

TOTAL 424’440 6’541’320 476’215 6’624’199 439’897 6’157’539<br />

TOTAL EXTRA EU 349’322 4’826’071 375’720 5’104’329 382’147 4’895’930<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 112


Table 75 shows the imports of woven outerwear into the UK. From<br />

2006 to 2008, total imports of women's woven outerwear decreased<br />

in value terms at a greater rate than the imports of men's<br />

outerwear. Imports of woven menswear decreased from € 2.7<br />

billion in 2006 to € 2.5 billion in 2008 and.<br />

The import volume of woven men's wear rose from 156 million<br />

tons in 2006 to 162 million tons in 2008. Import prices for woven<br />

menswear decreased significantly.<br />

Table 75: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product<br />

categories, 2006-2008<br />

2006 2007 2008<br />

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />

For men or boys<br />

Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc.<br />

(62.01)<br />

21’710 359’502 20’881 369’911 20’341 351’689<br />

Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts,<br />

etc. (62.03)<br />

98’357 1’663’038 104’415 1’679’011 105’214 1’535’886<br />

Shirts (62.05) 36’581 652’979 37’456 649’441 36’527 590’494<br />

Sub Total 156’649 2’675’519 162’752 2’698’363 162’081 2’478’069<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

For women or girls<br />

130’266 1’728’995 141’878 1’786’288 143’674 1’749’527<br />

Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc.<br />

(62.02)<br />

29’599 460’550 30’345 516’310 28’759 497’718<br />

Suits, jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers,<br />

etc. (62.04)<br />

157’177 3’054’677 169’674 3’075’113 147’044 2’586’331<br />

Blouses and shirts (62.06) 34’990 773’004 40’630 876’986 31’778 705’993<br />

Sub Total 221’766 4’288’231 240’649 4’468’409 207’580 3’790’043<br />

Sub Total Extra EU<br />

For both genders<br />

169’804 2’888’038 188’676 2’942’877 174’976 2’746’886<br />

Babies garments (62.09) 10’053 174’483 9’481 157’914 10’501 157’695<br />

Others incl. Impregnated (62.10) 18’505 252’097 21’972 265’327 21’478 274’375<br />

Shawls, scarves, mufflers, etc. (62.14) 5’093 94’237 4’808 91’366 6’909 102’397<br />

Ties, bow ties and cravats (62.15) 2’231 56’683 2’738 57’317 2’867 50’887<br />

Gloves, mittens and mitts (62.16) 2’605 23’959 2’196 22’767 1’886 22’723<br />

Other made-up clothing accessories<br />

(62.17)<br />

4’175 54’041 4’938 48’859 4’198 49’004<br />

Sub Total 42’660 655’501 46’132 643’550 47’840 657’081<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 34’421 459’816 38’522 456’032 39’444 473’126<br />

113 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Woven women's wear imports decreased from 2006 to 2008 by<br />

almost -12% and amounted to € 3.8 billion in 2008. Only the category<br />

62.02 (Coats, anoraks, etc.) increased by 8% in the same<br />

time period.<br />

Total imports of woven outerwear decreased by -9.3% from 2006<br />

to 2008. Extra EU imports decreased with a slower pace of only<br />

-2.1% in the same time period, thus increasing its market-share<br />

from 67% in 2006 to 72% in 2008.


2006 2007 2008<br />

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />

Active Sportswear<br />

Track suits, ski suits (62.11) 23’192 324’627 21’999 277’683 23’839 280’202<br />

Sub Total 23’192 324’627 21’999 277’683 23’839 280’202<br />

Sub Total Extra EU 18’928 212’850 18’451 194’032 20’870 209’111<br />

TOTAL 444’266 7’943’877 471’532 8’088’005 441’341 7’205’395<br />

TOTAL EXTRA EU 353’420 5’289’699 387’527 5’379’229 378’964 5’178’650<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

7.3.1 Outward Processing Trade (OPT)<br />

The United Kingdom does not have any kind of OPT activities<br />

according to Eurostat.<br />

7.3.2 Largest suppliers of outerwear<br />

According to Textil Forum, UK clothing production rose for the first<br />

time in many years in 2007. It grew by 3% during 2007 and stood<br />

at some € 5.4 billion. In 2008 employment in the clothing sector<br />

remained static at some 77’000. This was the first time that employment<br />

has not fallen, while in 2007 some 8’000 jobs were lost<br />

across the sector.<br />

However, it seems very likely that production and employment will<br />

fall in the coming years and imports will continue to rise. Several<br />

manufacturers of outerwear for men and/or women specialised<br />

themselves in corporate clothing, while other manufacturers shifted<br />

from manufacturing private labels to own branded business.<br />

Table 76: Largest extra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008<br />

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from<br />

2006<br />

Table 76 gives a good survey on the performance of the 20 leading<br />

extra-EU clothing suppliers to the UK. The share of clothing<br />

imports from non-EU countries was 75.4% in 2008. In 2008, €<br />

13.4 billion of outerwear was imported to the UK: € 10.1 billion<br />

outerwear from extra-EU and € 3.3 billion from other EU member<br />

states. While the imports from extra-EU decreased by -0.4% from<br />

2006 to 2008, the imports from EU countries declined significantly<br />

by almost 25%.<br />

The three main import countries are China (€ 4.2 billion), Turkey (€<br />

1.2 billion), Bangladesh (€ 0.9 billion).<br />

Looking at the country shares in total import, China maintains the<br />

major part with 31.6% of total imports. Turkey also plays a significant<br />

role with € 1.2 billion and a share of 9.2%. These two countries<br />

alone represent more than a third of total clothing imports.<br />

2007 [‘000 €] Change from<br />

2007<br />

2008 [‘000 €]<br />

1 China 3’104’783 12% 3’491’706 21% 4’233’931<br />

2 Turkey 1’565’951 11% 1’733’457 -29% 1’232’455<br />

3 Bangladesh 934’737 -3% 910’784 -1% 898’775<br />

4 India 780’417 15% 896’957 -6% 840’286<br />

5 Sri Lanka 453’725 1% 458’826 5% 479’894<br />

6 Morocco 339’259 1% 344’258 -19% 280’435<br />

7 Hong Kong 716’548 -26% 532’757 -57% 231’168<br />

8 Vietnam 185’558 8% 200’830 11% 222’950<br />

9 Indonesia 316’589 -13% 274’873 -20% 221’071<br />

10 Pakistan 213’369 3% 219’739 -3% 212’762<br />

11 Mauritius 190’687 2% 195’140 -13% 169’267<br />

12 Egypt 131’667 5% 138’350 1% 139’087<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 114


Intra-EU imports have declined by -22% from 2006 to 2008. Only<br />

Spain had inverse trend and increased its exports to the UK by<br />

18.3% from 2006 to 2008. Italy, Germany and France are the three<br />

main intra-EU exporting countries to the UK.<br />

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from<br />

2006<br />

115 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

2007 [‘000 €] Change from<br />

2007<br />

2008 [‘000 €]<br />

13 Thailand 132’405 -9% 120’539 2% 123’265<br />

14 Cambodia 121’053 0% 121’022 -2% 119’092<br />

15 USA 97’737 4% 101’545 -9% 92’643<br />

16 Tunisia 65’920 0% 66’035 2% 67’132<br />

17 Malaysia 56’163 -4% 53’829 -10% 48’438<br />

18 United Arab Emirates 66’271 -8% 60’791 -22% 47’625<br />

19 Lao 42’311 -25% 31’567 25% 39’485<br />

20 Philippines 61’171 -29% 43’560 -35% 28’346<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009<br />

Extra-EU 27 10’115’771 4% 10’483’559 -4% 10’074’580<br />

Intra-EU 27 4’369’427 -3% 4’228’645 -22% 3’288’354<br />

Total 14’485’198 2% 14’712’204 -9% 13’362’934<br />

Table 77: Largest intra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008<br />

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from<br />

2006<br />

2007 [‘000 €] Change from<br />

2007<br />

2008 [‘000 €]<br />

1 Italy 738’108 7% 791’131 -13% 686’370<br />

2 Germany 508’640 -2% 500’066 -12% 438’308<br />

3 France 572’712 -9% 520’384 -20% 416’824<br />

4 Belgium 473’308 -19% 382’264 -12% 337’874<br />

5 Romania 567’390 24% 704’426 -57% 302’231<br />

6 Netherlands 276’771 -6% 260’715 3% 268’890<br />

7 Spain 186’792 11% 206’940 7% 220’953<br />

8 Portugal 296’902 -12% 260’454 -25% 194’574<br />

9 Ireland 125’169 -8% 114’760 -15% 97’092<br />

10 Denmark 72’452 8% 77’990 -9% 71’084<br />

Intra-EU 27 4’369’427 -3% 4’228’645 -22% 3’288’354<br />

Extra-EU 27 10’115’771 4% 10’483’559 -4% 10’074’580<br />

Total 14’485’198 2% 14’712’204 -9% 13’362’934<br />

Source: Eurostat 2009


7.4 Trade structure.<br />

7.4.1 Developments in the retail trade<br />

Following M&S survey, the clothing market faced a difficult year. In<br />

this highly competitive sector several factors are driving shopping<br />

trends on the High Street.<br />

Older customers, who are more cautious about spending, are<br />

increasingly buying on a ‘needs’ basis or replacing staples with<br />

investment pieces. They are looking for clothing that lasts beyond<br />

the current season, which can be dressed up or down and accessorised.<br />

Additionally, the economic climate has forced customers to<br />

consider carefully before buying, prompting retailers to introduce<br />

promotions and discounts to entice them in, especially during<br />

Christmas. This resulted in customers widening their store choice<br />

so they could cherry pick the best offers, and use deals to ‘trade<br />

up’ to better quality items for less money.<br />

Under-35 customers are more unpredictable in their approach to<br />

spending. While spending initially slowed at the start of 2008/09,<br />

they quickly returned to the impulse shopping that characterised<br />

their spending before the credit crunch. They tend to buy for the<br />

moment and gravitate to cheap fashion items – cutting back spending<br />

in other parts of their lives so they can afford to shop.<br />

The retailing structure for clothing in the UK is one most concentrated<br />

in the world. Clothing chains, value and discount retailers and<br />

variety stores are the main retail channels for outerwear clothing<br />

in the UK. The three largest players are Marks & Spencer (M&S),<br />

the Next Group and the Arcadia Group. The number and variety<br />

of retail channels which offer outerwear clothing has increased in<br />

recent years.<br />

The UK accounted for around 34'500 clothing outlets in 2008, of<br />

which the number of independent clothing retailers can be estimated<br />

at almost 10'000, operating through 13'000 outlets. Some<br />

independent sport shops in the UK have joined a buying group,<br />

of which the most important are Intersport (162 stores) and Sport<br />

2000 (183).<br />

The Arcadia Group, operates through over 2'800 clothing multiple<br />

stores in the UK (and 600 abroad), like Dorothy Perkins, Evans,<br />

Top Shop, Wallis, Miss Selfridge, Burton and Top Man. All chains<br />

include home service activities.<br />

Under the name Aurora Fashions, new name for Mosaic Fashions,<br />

four fashion brands (Karen Millan, Coast, Warehouse and Oasis)<br />

will continue its activities through 1'377 stores in 45 countries, as<br />

reported in March 2009.<br />

Major foreign players are Hennes & Mauritz (146 stores), Gap<br />

(136 stores), Zara (63 stores), Mango (20 stores) and Dunnes<br />

Stores (29 stores).<br />

The UK clothing retail sector makes a distinction between discount<br />

retailers, which sell branded clothing at below recommended prices,<br />

and value retailers, which sell own label clothes at low prices.<br />

Both types of retailers are likely to put even further downward<br />

pressure on pricing. The value players have performed strongly<br />

and this is expected to continue as the downturn takes hold.<br />

Primark is the largest of these players followed by TK Maxx (part<br />

of the USA based TJX Companies). Primark has plans for further<br />

expansion, has stores already trading in Spain and plans afoot for<br />

further expansion into The Netherlands, Portugal and Germany.<br />

TK Maxx Europe is also active in Ireland and Germany.<br />

The most important variety chain is Marks & Spencer (M&S)<br />

with 490 stores nationwide and selling clothing besides food and<br />

home ware. In addition, M&S has 166 stores worldwide, including<br />

franchise businesses, operating in 36 countries. M&S is the UK’s<br />

leading household and furnishing retailer, and an important retailer<br />

of foods, clothing and footwear. Another variety chain is Bhs<br />

(180 stores), active in adults’ wear, and even more important, in<br />

children’s wear also through the formula Tammy. The 818 Woolworth<br />

variety stores went into administration in November 2008<br />

and were closed in four stages throughout December 2008 and<br />

January 2009.<br />

The leading department store is Debenham (153 stores in the UK<br />

and Ireland, besides 48 franchised outlets in 17 countries abroad).<br />

Debenham is the UK’s third largest clothing retailer and the<br />

leading department store in selling clothing. Another department<br />

store is John Lewis Partnership (27 stores).<br />

Along with this development, the competition among the clothing<br />

suppliers from non-EU countries has also increased and demands<br />

with regard to service, reliability and keeping of high quality standards<br />

have to be fulfilled by companies that wish to remain on the<br />

supplier’s lists.<br />

A further strong development in the British retail trade - apart from<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 116


price orientation - is the emphasis on more service and attractive<br />

shop interiors. Consumers are not only prepared to invest in the<br />

product, but also accept higher prices for the distracting experience<br />

of shopping. Buying of clothing becomes a special and joyful<br />

‘event’ achieved through a variety of entertaining and extensive<br />

store environments.<br />

Clothing retail chain<br />

General<br />

Parent company Website Number of outlets<br />

Next Next PLC www.next.co.uk 502 (660)<br />

Monsoon Monsoon www.monsoon.co.uk 410 (849)<br />

New Look<br />

Women<br />

New Look www.newlook.co.uk 613 (885)<br />

Dorothy Perkins Arcadia Group www.dorothyperkins.co.uk 600<br />

Evans Arcadia Group www.evans.ltd.uk 330<br />

Wallis Arcadia Group www.walis-fashion.com 300 (425)<br />

Miss Selfridge Arcadia Group www.misssefridge.co.uk 141 (187)<br />

Topshop Arcadia Group www.topshop.co.uk 320<br />

Alexon Alexon Group www.alexon.co.uk 77<br />

Bay Trading<br />

Men<br />

Alexon Group www.alexon.co.uk 167<br />

Topman Arcadia Group www.topman.co.uk 178<br />

Burton<br />

Children & maternity<br />

Arcadia Group www.burton.co.uk 400<br />

Mothercare<br />

Outdoor / sports<br />

Mothercare www.mothercare.com 225 (553)<br />

JJB Sports JJB Sports www.jjb.co.uk 344<br />

Blacks Leisure Black Leisure Group www.blackleisure.co.uk 374<br />

JD Sports<br />

Value retailers<br />

John David Group www.jdsports.co.uk 402<br />

Matalan (family clothing etc.) www.matalan.co.uk 200<br />

Peacock (clothing, footwear etc.) www.peacocks.co.uk 460 (506)<br />

Primark (clothing, footwear etc.) www.primark.co.uk 181<br />

M6Co (former name Mackays; women’s and children’s wear) www.mackaystores.co.uk 297<br />

QS (general clothing) www.qsgroup.co.uk 170<br />

Bonmarché (women’s wear)<br />

Discount chains<br />

www.bonmarche.co.uk 371<br />

TK Maxx (fashion and giftware) www.tkmaxx.com 214 (231)<br />

The Officers Club (men’s wear) www.theofficersclub.co.uk 174<br />

Source: CBI - Note: Numbers in brackets including outlets abroad<br />

117 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

7.4.2 Leading retailers<br />

The following table gives a good survey of leading clothing shops/<br />

chains in the UK. Besides the clothing chains of the powerful ARCADIA<br />

Group, (sales volume £ 1.9 billion in 2008) there are other clothing<br />

multiples like NEXT with 502 outlets and a sales volume of €3.3 billion.<br />

Table 78: Major specialised clothing chains based in the UK, 2008


7.4.3 Distribution channels<br />

7.4.3.1 Retailers<br />

The following table gives an overview on the main clothing retail<br />

channels in the UK and the share of each channel.<br />

Table 79: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]<br />

2004 2006 2008<br />

Specialists 48 49 49<br />

Independent retailers 14 13 12<br />

Clothing multiples* 34 36 37<br />

Non-specialists 52 51 51<br />

Department/variety stores 15 15 16<br />

Home shopping companies 9 9 8<br />

Hyper- and supermarkets 6 7 7<br />

Sports stores 8 8 9<br />

Other 8 7 6<br />

Total 100 100 100<br />

Source: CBI and BTE – Note: *including discounters and value retailers<br />

7.4.3.1.1 Independent specialised retailers<br />

The market share of independent clothing retailers has been<br />

dropping slowly over the past three years (2004-2008). 12% of<br />

the clothing is sold through independent shops, which is rather<br />

low compared with the much higher percentages in France and<br />

Germany.<br />

The shrinking process of the smaller independent retailers has<br />

come to a standstill and the market has stabilized at a low level.<br />

More than 90% of independent retailers do not buy/import from<br />

overseas clothing suppliers but source abroad through their buying<br />

associations.<br />

Market share: 12% in 2008, Trend: decreasing<br />

7.4.3.1.2 Clothing multiples<br />

The structure of clothing retailing in the UK is one of the most<br />

concentrated in the world. The largest player in the market is the<br />

Arcadia Group, which operates with more than 2'500 clothing multiple<br />

stores and includes, as well as home service activities, the<br />

women’s chains Dorothy Perkins, Evans, Top Shop, Miss Selfridge,<br />

Wallis, Outfit the men's wear chains Burton and Top Man. The<br />

Arcadia Group buys separately for each of its companies and each<br />

product group and there are buyers responsible for each product<br />

segment.<br />

The Top Shop chain, offers the latest young fashion and have<br />

enlarged their services including ‘style consulting’, a VIP Service<br />

sending a selection of clothing items home and a special department<br />

for pregnant women with extra large changing rooms. Those<br />

luxury shops that have traditional brands such as BURBERRY‘ S,<br />

BARBOUR and PRINGLE play an important role for consumers<br />

over 45 who have the appropriate income to buy quality collections.<br />

Burberry has been successful in re-launching its traditional<br />

labels and combines higher quality with higher prices. Burberry‘s<br />

consumer-oriented and elaborate marketing led to a sales increase.<br />

Similar developments can be detected for the retailers Daks,<br />

Aquascutum, and Mulberry, who combined classic brands with<br />

current market trends.<br />

As in other European countries, the mid-market global fashion<br />

brands of the foreign companies H&M, ZARA and MANGO are<br />

strengthening their hold on the UK market. In the UK clothing retail<br />

sector a distinction is made between discount retailers, which sell<br />

branded clothing at below recommended prices and value retailers,<br />

which sell own label clothes at low prices.<br />

The market share of these retailers, in particular value retailers,<br />

increased strongly in the period under review and included outerwear.<br />

The secret of their success is the ability to provide the latest<br />

fashion trends to their customers.<br />

Market share: 37 % in 2008, Trend: increasing<br />

7.4.3.1.3 Department stores<br />

Among the clothing retailers, the department store MARKS &<br />

SPENCER (M&S) in particular suffered from fiercer competition<br />

and profits that turned into losses at the end of the nineties. However,<br />

with a total sales of around £ 0.9 billion in 2008, the restructuring<br />

efforts were successful. M&S has now reopened stores<br />

outside the UK but still concentrates on premium locations.<br />

The DEBENHAMS department stores had a sales turnover of £<br />

2.3 billion in 2009. Other major department stores are: JOHN LE-<br />

WIS, HOUSE OF FRASER, ALLDERS and SELFRIDGES in the<br />

market, but MARKS & SPENCER still keeps the no. 1 position.<br />

Market share: 16 % in 2008, Trend: Stable<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 118


7.4.3.1.4 Home shopping companies<br />

Over 40 companies are active in the home shopping sector (operations<br />

via direct-mail, catalogues, television and Internet) like:<br />

Grattan and Freemans; both companies are part of the German<br />

mail-order giant Otto Versand; Empire Stores is owned by the<br />

French PRP; Littlewoods. Most of the UK retail organisations<br />

operate also via Internet, mail-order and home shopping, of which<br />

Next Directory - is the most successful.<br />

Market share: 8% in 2008, Trend: Decreasing<br />

7.4.3.1.5 Hyper- and supermarkets<br />

Supermarkets tend to offer convenience and competitive prices.<br />

And because almost everyone needs to go grocery shopping,<br />

supermarkets have a large base of customers who regularly<br />

visit their stores. This has even resulted in some supermarkets<br />

attempting to lead and create fashion trends in clothing. According<br />

to Verdict, growth in sales of clothing at supermarkets will be<br />

driven by two factors.<br />

• Supermarkets will start to sell a greater range of higher priced<br />

clothing. This will help them attract a wider spread of consumers<br />

and allow them to take more business from specialist players<br />

• Supermarkets will achieve growth in sales of clothing via online<br />

shopping. Many grocers are already active in Internet sales and<br />

have a comprehensive delivery network in place.<br />

The two major retailers in the supermarket sector are ASDA (328<br />

stores selling clothing in the UK and part of American Wal-Mart;<br />

and Tesco (585 superstores but not all stores are selling clothing).<br />

They increasingly follow the trend of offering non-food products as<br />

do, for instance, the leading French hypermarkets. ASDA’s assortment<br />

includes its successful George clothing range, which is also<br />

sold by Wal-Mart. Another grocer chain is Sainsbury’s (selling its<br />

TU clothing collection in 300 of the in total more than 800 stores).<br />

The German discounters Lidl (450 stores) and Aldi (360) and,<br />

Makro Cash & Carry (33 stores) are also active in the UK.<br />

Market share: 7% in 2008, Trend: Increasing<br />

119 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

7.4.3.2 Sales intermediaries<br />

7.4.3.2.1 Clothing manufacturers<br />

In addition to retailers and wholesalers that import clothing to<br />

the UK, in some cases UK manufacturers partly outsource their<br />

production activities to manufacturers abroad. Due to the strong<br />

increase of production costs in the UK, clothing manufacturers<br />

(mainly brands) have started outsourcing to Eastern Europe and<br />

Northern Africa. Many products (e.g. most of the knitted outerwear)<br />

are bought from Asia and Turkey.<br />

British clothing ‘manufacturers’ have turned in being more<br />

management and marketing units than producers. They mainly<br />

concentrate on the design and fashion as well as on marketing<br />

and sales.<br />

The brands sell their products to selected distribution channels<br />

that correspond with their marketing strategy. In any case, practically<br />

all British clothing brands source products abroad in one<br />

way or another and offer various sales opportunities for clothing<br />

manufacturers from abroad.<br />

7.4.3.2.2 Central buying associations<br />

Co-ordinated buying through central buying associations is a way<br />

for smaller UK retailers to gain more purchasing power. Since the<br />

clothing market in the UK is highly concentrated, with only a few<br />

big players who mainly buy directly from clothing manufacturers<br />

and there is little market share for small independent shops, the<br />

importance of central buying associations in the UK is still low.<br />

In Great Britain, importers/wholesalers have often taken over the<br />

‘buying function’ for smaller retailers, as the latter do not have the<br />

know-how and the means to import goods on their own.<br />

7.4.3.2.3 Sales agents<br />

There are different methods of indirect distribution from abroad<br />

to the various clothing retailers in the UK. One option is that local<br />

‘agents’ identify the clothing suppliers abroad, but the UK retailer<br />

is still the one who negotiates with their in-house buying team and<br />

organises all the logistics including shipping etc. Most often British<br />

retailers use several forms of indirect contacts.


Roughly speaking, half of these agents or wholesalers are located<br />

in the UK and half are located outside the UK. Agents are used by<br />

retailers to identify appropriate suppliers, to outsource the complete<br />

handling and control including communication with the supplier,<br />

the safeguarding of quality standards (especially for women's<br />

wear), the complete logistics including the import procedures, the<br />

production abroad according to ecological and social standards<br />

(code of conduct) etc.<br />

A further option for the clothing manufacturer from abroad is<br />

selling through regional agents in the UK. The condition is whether<br />

the manufacturer has a clear marketing strategy with a market<br />

oriented collection for the British market. The basis is a detailed<br />

‘<strong>Business</strong> Plan’. The manufacturer from abroad should consider<br />

that the area of ‘Greater London’ is highly competitive and it might<br />

be more advantageous to start the market entry in areas like Manchester,<br />

the North West or even Ireland.<br />

7.4.3.2.4 Importers / wholesalers<br />

For most suppliers to the UK market, indirect selling is the first way<br />

to go. UK wholesalers are infrequently mentioned, rarely visible,<br />

and searching for them on the Internet proves to be very difficult.<br />

Market research has shown that clothing wholesalers do not play<br />

an important role in the UK. Some British retailers do buy with<br />

the help of intermediary companies, and these wholesalers might<br />

even be outside the UK.<br />

The principles and possibilities of indirect selling to the UK might<br />

be illustrated as follows: If the manufacturer’s clothing is sold for<br />

instance at the shops of Marks & Spencer in the UK, the import<br />

may be done through a company somewhere in Europe and not<br />

necessarily in the UK. This can be confusing for clothing manufacturers<br />

from abroad when trying to get in contact with a buyer who<br />

only buys ‘within Europe’.<br />

Nevertheless, selling clothing to the UK also means working, in<br />

general, with manufacturers in Europe that export to the British<br />

market. Selling to wholesalers can be more profitable, because<br />

desperately trying to sell directly to the retailers may not work and<br />

might result in no orders at all, as many British retailers ‘source’<br />

through those wholesale and import units.<br />

The main function of wholesalers cannot be described merely as<br />

‘buying and selling and gaining a high margin’. The wholesalers<br />

also know most of the details about the retailer’s needs. Other<br />

tasks and functions of the wholesaler within the sourcing process<br />

include the know-how about the standards of the designs and as<br />

well as knowledge of the technical aspects of the products to be<br />

produced.<br />

The British wholesaler normally also advises the manufacturer to<br />

put the appropriate label on the product, as the concept of own<br />

‘Retail Brands’ has become of crucial importance to the retailers<br />

in the UK offering them more independence from the clothing<br />

manufacturers and running an own brand concept with better<br />

margins. The British wholesaler normally is fully involved in these<br />

processes to guarantee the ‘right product at the right time in the<br />

right place’.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 120


7.5 UK fashion trade fairs.<br />

The UK has achieved a better image for clothing design in the last<br />

few years and is competing with France and Italy. With London as<br />

a major fashion centre in Europe, the United Kingdom has gained<br />

more importance as a ‘Fashion Country’.<br />

In addition, a great deal of support from the British government<br />

has been an encouraging factor. ‘London Design’ is said to have<br />

a very modern or even avant-garde style and influences the<br />

European fashion scene to a certain extent. As a consequence<br />

of the appreciation of British clothing and design, trade fairs have<br />

increased in recent years. According to market experts, London<br />

offers the major clothing fairs in UK. Still today, it is highly recommended<br />

to check exact dates and venues of the smaller British<br />

fairs beforehand, as the ‘fair scene’ keeps on changing its names<br />

and locations.<br />

The main trade fair for clothing in the UK is the London Fashion<br />

Week. Two more fairs take place parallel to the London Fashion<br />

Week: Pure and Margin London. All these fairs take place twice a<br />

year (February and August).<br />

Table 80: UK fashion trade fairs 2010<br />

Trade fair Date <strong>Location</strong><br />

London Fashion Week 19. - 24.02.2010 London<br />

London Fashion Week August London<br />

Pure 01. - 03.08.2010 London<br />

Premier Kids 07. - 11.02.2010 Birmingham<br />

Moda UK 08. - 10.08.2010 Birmingham<br />

Margin London 01. - 02.08.2010 London<br />

Clothes Show Life 03. - 08.12.2010 Birmingham<br />

Printwear & Promotion Live 28. - 02.03.2010 Birmingham<br />

The London Design Festival 18. - 26.09.2010 London<br />

Source: Auma<br />

121 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

An exception is the Premier Kids in Birmingham, which has found<br />

its niche in the children's wear segment.<br />

In any case, brief research about the importance and the concept<br />

of the fair to be attended is essential. The following table gives<br />

a brief overview on the major British clothing fairs with names,<br />

venues and dates.


7.6 List of major buyers in UK.<br />

Clothing chain stores:<br />

Arcadia Group Ltd.<br />

Colegrave House<br />

70 Berners Street<br />

GB - London W1T 3NL<br />

Tel.: +44 – 0844 243 0000<br />

www.arcadiagroup.co.uk<br />

customer.service@arcadiagroup.co.uk<br />

TOP MAN<br />

Colegrave House<br />

70 Berners Street<br />

GB - London W1T 3NL<br />

Tel.: +44 – 207 – 636 8040<br />

European Customers:<br />

+44 844 984 0264<br />

customer.service@topman.com<br />

www.topman.co.uk<br />

TOP SHOP<br />

Colegrave House<br />

70 Berners Street<br />

GB - London W1T 3NL<br />

Tel.: +44 – 207 – 636 8040<br />

Fax: +44 – 207 – 927 2434<br />

www.topshop.co.uk<br />

customer.service@<br />

TOPSHOP.COM<br />

Wallis Fashion Group Ltd.<br />

Colegrave House<br />

70 Berners Street<br />

GB - London W1T 3NL<br />

Tel.: +44 – 207 – 636 8040<br />

customer.service@wallis.co.uk<br />

www.wallis-fashion.com<br />

WEW Group PLC<br />

296 Springfield Road<br />

GB - Glasgow G40 3HZ<br />

Tel.: +44 – 141 – 5567111<br />

Fax: +44 – 141 – 5567262<br />

Product range: Ladies,<br />

men’s, childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: 2500 +<br />

420 international franchise<br />

stores+ mail order business<br />

Note: Arcadia Group is<br />

privately owned by Taveta<br />

Investments Ltd, the investment<br />

vehicle owned by Sir<br />

Philip Green and his family<br />

Product range: Menswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid-level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

167 + mail order service<br />

Note: belongs to ARCA-<br />

DIA Group<br />

Product range: Womenswear<br />

(young fashion)<br />

Price segment: Mid-level<br />

Number of outlets:<br />

288 + mail order service<br />

Note: belongs to ARCA-<br />

DIA Group<br />

Product range:<br />

Womenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: 289 +<br />

mail order service<br />

Note: belongs to ARCA-<br />

DIA Group<br />

Product range: Ladies,<br />

men’s, childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: 40<br />

Bhs International<br />

Euston House<br />

132 Hampstead Road<br />

GB - London NW1 2PS<br />

Tel.: +44 – 207 – 2623288<br />

international@bhs.co.uk<br />

www.bhs.co.uk<br />

Bon Marché Ltd.<br />

Jubilee Way<br />

Grange Moor<br />

GB - Wakefield WF4 4SJ<br />

Tel.: +44(0)1924 700100<br />

Fax: +44(0)1924 700249<br />

info@bonmarche.co.uk<br />

www.bonmarche.co.uk<br />

Greenwoods Ltd.<br />

Greenwood House<br />

Albion Road, Greengates<br />

GB - Bradford BD10 9TQ<br />

Tel.: +44 – 127 – 4659650<br />

Fax: +44 – 127 – 4659692<br />

info@gwmw.com<br />

www.gwmw.com<br />

H&M Hennes Ltd.<br />

2nd Floor, Holden House<br />

57 Rathbone Place<br />

GB - London W1T 1HE<br />

Tel.: +44 – 020 – 7323 2211<br />

www.hm.com<br />

Matalan Retail Ltd.<br />

Gillibrands Road<br />

Skelmersdale<br />

GB - WN8 9TB, West Lancashire<br />

Tel.: +44 – 169 – 5552400<br />

www.matalan.co.uk<br />

Product range: Ladies,<br />

men’s, childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: over<br />

100 in the UK<br />

Product range:<br />

Womenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower level<br />

Number of outlets: 350<br />

(370 at the<br />

end 2005)<br />

Note: belongs to Peacock<br />

Group<br />

Product range: Menswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Upper level<br />

Number of outlets: 150<br />

Product range: Ladies,<br />

men’s, childrenswear<br />

Price segment: lower level<br />

Number of outlets: 96<br />

(expanding)<br />

Product range: Ladies,<br />

men’s, childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

mid to upper level<br />

Number of outlets: 190<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 122


MANGO (head office in Spain)<br />

Mercaders 9-11<br />

P.I. Riera de Caldes<br />

Apartado de Correos 280<br />

E - 08184 Palau-solità i<br />

Plegamans (Barcelona)<br />

Tel.: +34 – 93 860 24 24<br />

Fax:+34 – 93 860 22 07<br />

www.mango.es<br />

QS Familywear PLC<br />

Harbour House<br />

121 Gardener Road, Portslade<br />

GB - Brighton BN1 IQS<br />

Tel.: +44 – 1273 – 874444<br />

Fax: +44 – 1273 – 874433<br />

qsplc@co.uk<br />

www.qsgroup.co.uk<br />

River Island Clothing Co.<br />

Ltd.<br />

Chelsea House, West Gate<br />

GB - London W5 1DR<br />

Tel.: +44 – 208 – 9914500<br />

Fax: +44 – 208 – 9914500<br />

www.riverisland.com<br />

Zara<br />

48, Warwick Street<br />

GB - London, W1B 5 FE<br />

Tel.: +44 20 7851 43 00<br />

Fax: +44 20 7851 43 01<br />

www.zara.com<br />

Department stores:<br />

Debenhams Retail Plc.<br />

1 Welbeck Street<br />

GB - London W1G GAA<br />

Tel.: +44 – 207 – 408 4444<br />

Fax: +44 – 207 – 408 3366<br />

www.debenhams.com<br />

123 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Product range: Ladies,<br />

men’s, childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower level (value for<br />

money)<br />

Number of outlets: 180<br />

Product range: Ladies,<br />

men’s, childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower level (value for<br />

money)<br />

Number of outlets: 180<br />

Product range: Ladies’ and<br />

menswear<br />

Price segment: Mid to<br />

upper level<br />

Number of outlets: 200<br />

Product range: Ladies,<br />

men’s, childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: 42<br />

(Remark: Buying via<br />

Spain)<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: 117<br />

House of Fraser PLC<br />

1 Howick Place<br />

GB - London SW1P 1BH<br />

Tel.: +44 – 207 – 963 2000<br />

Fax: +44 – 207 – 821 5348<br />

www.houseoffraser.co.uk<br />

John Lewis Partnership Ltd.<br />

John Lewis Department<br />

Stores<br />

171 Victoria Street<br />

GB - London SW1E 5NN<br />

Tel.: +44 – 207 – 828 1000�<br />

Fax: +44 – 207 – 592 6333<br />

www.johnlewis.co.uk<br />

www.johnlewispartnership.co.uk<br />

Liberty PLC<br />

Regent Street<br />

GB - London W1B 5AH<br />

Tel.: +44 – 207 – 734 1234<br />

Fax: +44 – 020 – 7573 9898<br />

www.liberty.co.uk<br />

Marks + Spencer Group PLC<br />

Waterside House<br />

35 North Wharf Road<br />

GB - London W21 NW<br />

Tel.: +44 – 020 7935 4422<br />

www.marksandspencer.com<br />

retailcustomer.services@<br />

marksandspencer.com<br />

Next plc.<br />

Company secretary: Mr A J R<br />

McKinlay<br />

Desford Road<br />

GB - Enderby Leicester LE19<br />

4AT<br />

Tel.: +44 – 0 - 844 844 88 88<br />

Fax: +44 – 116 – 284 8998<br />

www.next.co.uk<br />

Woolworths PLC<br />

1st Floor, Skyways House,<br />

Speke Road, GB - Speke,<br />

Liverpool L70 1AB<br />

Tel.: +44 – 207 – 262 1222<br />

Fax: +44 – 207 – 706 5416<br />

www.woolworths.co.uk<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’ and menswear<br />

Price segment: Upper<br />

level (brand orientation)<br />

Number of outlets: 51<br />

(under 16 names)<br />

Product range:<br />

Sports and Leisurewear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: 27<br />

stores + 169 supermarkets<br />

Product range: Ladies’,<br />

men’s and childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: 120 +<br />

166 catalogue shops<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: 375<br />

stores + over<br />

130 franchising partners<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price segment: Mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: 400<br />

stores + 43 franchising<br />

partners + home shopping<br />

Product range:<br />

Childrenswear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: 806


Manufacturers/Importer and Wholesalers/Importers:<br />

J. Brownleader Ltd.<br />

49c Oxford Road<br />

GB - London W5 3SR<br />

Tel: +44 – 207 – 354 2468<br />

Fax: +44 – 207 – 354 2593<br />

Liam David Ltd.<br />

Coburg House 35 Sefton<br />

Street<br />

GB - Liverpool L8 5SL,<br />

Merseyside<br />

Tel.: +44 – 151 – 706 – 0060<br />

Fax: +44 – 151 – 706 –<br />

0661<br />

www.ldl.uk.com<br />

Westbridge International<br />

Group Ltd.<br />

Westbridge House<br />

Holland Street, Hyson<br />

Green<br />

GB - Nottingham NG7 5DS<br />

Tel.: +44 – 115 – 978 2254<br />

Fax: +44 – 115 942 0547<br />

www.wbig.co.uk<br />

County Coats<br />

61-75 Alie Street<br />

GB - London E1 8EL<br />

Tel.: +44 – 207 – 709 9682<br />

Fax: +44 – 207 – 702 2870<br />

Propeller UK Ltd.<br />

A.M.C. House<br />

1a Lower Park<br />

GB - London W3 6XA<br />

Tel.: +44 – 208 – 896 8700<br />

Mail Order Companies:<br />

Redcats (Brands) Ltd.<br />

(formerly Empire Stores Ltd.)<br />

18, Canal Road<br />

GB - Bradford B99 4XB – W.<br />

Yorkshire<br />

Tel.: +44 – 1274 – 72 9544<br />

Fax: +44 – 1274 – 76 3816<br />

www.empirestores.co.uk<br />

Freemans PLC<br />

Amberley Street<br />

GB – Sheffield S9 2 FS<br />

www.freemans.com<br />

Great Universal Stores PLC<br />

(GUS)<br />

Universal House<br />

251-256 Tottenham Court<br />

Road<br />

GB - London W1A 1BZ<br />

Tel.: +44 71 636 4080<br />

Fax: +44 71 631 3641<br />

info@gusplc.com<br />

www.gusplc.com<br />

Grattan PLC<br />

P.O. B ox 3856<br />

GB – Sheffield S96 5WD<br />

www.grattan.co.uk<br />

JD Williams + Co. Ltd.<br />

Griffin House<br />

40 Lever Street<br />

GB - Manchester M60 6ES<br />

Tel.: +44 – 870 – 160 61 00<br />

www.jdwilliams.co.uk<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price level: Lower level<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price level: Lower to midlevel<br />

(value for money)<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price level:<br />

from Lower to upper<br />

level<br />

Note: 12 different mailorder<br />

lines<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price level:<br />

Lower to mid-level<br />

Product range:<br />

Ladies’, men’s and<br />

childrenswear<br />

Price level:<br />

Mid to lower level<br />

Note: No. 1 in UK with 20<br />

catalogue brands<br />

Note: part of N. Brown<br />

Group PLC<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 124


Jeans and Young Fashion Chain:<br />

Alexon A Division of Alexon<br />

Int. Ltd.<br />

Pitfield<br />

Kiln Farm<br />

GB – Milton Keynes MK 11<br />

3LW<br />

help@alexon.co.uk<br />

www.alexon.co.uk<br />

Blacks Leisure Group PLC<br />

440-450 Cob Drive<br />

Swan Valley<br />

GB – Northampton NN4 9BB<br />

Tel.: +44 (0) 1604 597 000<br />

Fax +44 (0) 1604 597 171<br />

www.blacks.co.uk<br />

Cromwells Madhouse plc.<br />

Fulton Road, Unit 3, Palace of<br />

Industry<br />

GB - Wembley HA9 OTL –<br />

Middlesex<br />

Tel.: +44 – 181 – 903 5888<br />

Fax: +44 – 181 – 903 0303<br />

www.madhouse.co.uk<br />

Gilesports plc<br />

Fortran Road, St. Mellons<br />

GB - Cardiff CF3 OLT<br />

Tel.: +44 – 1222 – 77 44 00<br />

Fax: +44 – 1222 – 77 44 01<br />

www.gilesports.com<br />

Paco Life in Colour<br />

Unit K3/Waterside Shopping<br />

Centre<br />

High Street<br />

Lincoln, LN2 1AP<br />

Tel.: +44 01 522 568637<br />

www.dancingdress.co.uk<br />

125 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Product range:<br />

Sportswear (outdoor)<br />

Price segment: Mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: 125<br />

Note: belongs to Blacks<br />

Leisure Group plc.<br />

Product range:<br />

Sportswear (outdoor)<br />

Price segment: Mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: 125.<br />

Product range: Ladies’ and<br />

men’s jeans wear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Lower to mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: 55<br />

Price segment: Upper<br />

level (mainlybrands)<br />

Number of outlets: 50<br />

Product range:<br />

Sportswear<br />

Price segment: Mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: 50<br />

JJB Sports PLC (formerly<br />

Sports Division)<br />

Martland Park, Challenge Way<br />

GB - Wigan WN5 0LD, Lancashire<br />

Tel.: +44 – 194 – 2 2101 20<br />

Fax: +44 – 194 – 2 210 124<br />

www.jjbsports.com<br />

French Connection Group<br />

plc<br />

Head Office<br />

3 Hancock Road<br />

Bromley-by-Bow<br />

GB - London, E3 3DA<br />

Tel.: +44 – 20 7036 7000<br />

Fax: +44 – 20 7036 7001<br />

www.frenchconnection.com<br />

Buying Associations:<br />

Co-operative Wholesale<br />

(CWS) Ltd.<br />

New Century House –<br />

P.O.B. 53<br />

GB - Manchester M60 4ES<br />

Tel.: +44 – 161 – 834 1212<br />

Fax: +44 – 161 – 834 4507<br />

www.Co-op.co.uk<br />

Product range:<br />

Sportswear<br />

Price segment: Mid-level<br />

Number of outlets: 82<br />

Product range: Stylish<br />

sports and casual wear<br />

Price segment:<br />

Mid to upper level<br />

Number of outlets: 430<br />

Note: Largest British retailer<br />

for sportswear<br />

INTERSPORT UK<br />

Shirley Solihull<br />

GB - B90 4LF West Midlands<br />

Tel.: +44 - 121 - 683 1449<br />

Fax: +44 - 121 - 683 1467<br />

www.intersport.co.uk<br />

contact@intersport.co.uk


8. Doing business in <strong>Switzerland</strong> and the EU.<br />

8.1 Market access.<br />

8.1.1 Quality and standards in <strong>Switzerland</strong> and the EU<br />

The application of the European Norms (EN) in the 27 EU and the<br />

4 EFTA countries (including <strong>Switzerland</strong>) is the basis of a liberal<br />

intra-European trade and is valid in all 31 countries (more details:<br />

www.cenorm.be).<br />

However, there are no general EU or Swiss standards for<br />

garments. The rule is that importers in EU countries as well as<br />

in <strong>Switzerland</strong> generally fulfil the minimum quality requirements<br />

regarding material and making. The technical committee of the European<br />

Apparel and Textile Confederation (Euratex) has published<br />

an example of recommendations for manufacturers of knitted and<br />

woven clothing. Within these recommendations the Euratex, where<br />

<strong>Switzerland</strong> and many of the EU 27 countries hold a membership<br />

makes a difference between:<br />

• Recommendations concerning the characteristics of product<br />

which could be detected by an experienced person without aid<br />

of instruments in general use. A fault is located if the irregularity<br />

is evident in the fabrics as it was delivered or in the final product<br />

• Recommendations concerning the characteristics of fabrics,<br />

which could be only recovered with the help of appropriate<br />

equipment. Description of each characteristic includes definition,<br />

testing method, minimum quality standards and (if necessary)<br />

possible allowable tolerances compared with measurements of<br />

the sample.<br />

Testing methods for clothing are usually based on the ISO<br />

standards (www.iso.ch) or they can also suit the requirements of<br />

European norms (EN) or national standards of the EU member<br />

states (such as DIN, SIS, BS). ISO is made up of its members.<br />

A member body of ISO is the national body ‘most representative<br />

of standardization in its country’. Only one such body for each<br />

country is accepted for membership of ISO. Member bodies are<br />

entitled to participate and exercise full voting rights on any technical<br />

committee and policy committee of ISO. The member body of<br />

ISO in <strong>Switzerland</strong> is Swiss Association for Standardization (SNV)<br />

(more details can be taken from www.snv.ch). ISO norms are also<br />

applied in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. The major standards for quality and grading<br />

standards in the EU and <strong>Switzerland</strong> are the following:<br />

• for care labelling - ISO 3758<br />

• for dimensional stability – DIN 53894 (steaming), DIN 54311<br />

(fusing), ISO 3759/5077/6330 (washing/tumbling), ISO 3175 (dry<br />

cleaning)<br />

• for physical properties – ISO 5081 (tensile strength strip), ISO<br />

5082 (tensile strength grab), ISO 9290 (tear strength), BS 3320<br />

(seam slippage), EN 22313 (abrasion resistance), ISO 9876<br />

(crease tendency/recovery), BS 5811 (pilling tendency), SIS<br />

650047 (fibre penetration), EN 24920 (spray test) etc.<br />

• for colour-fastness to washing, light, water and other external<br />

influences - ISO 105<br />

Although the EU attempts to activate free trade based on the<br />

harmonization of product requirements, each EU member state<br />

and <strong>Switzerland</strong> has its own national market for apparel with its respective<br />

requirements concerning quality, type of clothing, colour,<br />

fabric, size etc.<br />

Swiss norms are progressively disappearing due to the appearance<br />

of international norms. Following requirements inherent to<br />

globalisation, Swiss industry has changed over to international<br />

standards over the last twenty years. In order to counteract possible<br />

discrimination against the Swiss clothing industry because<br />

of the country’s non-membership in the EU, <strong>Switzerland</strong> has<br />

accepted various EU-norms and references within the framework<br />

of national legislation.<br />

8.1.2 Packaging, size marking and labelling<br />

Packaging<br />

Care must be given to the packaging of products if one intends<br />

to export to EU countries and <strong>Switzerland</strong>. Packaging must be<br />

travel-steady, it must protect the product against environmental<br />

influences, theft, rough handling etc.<br />

As well as these basic demands, some importers may have specific<br />

demands concerning packaging, such as printing information<br />

about the order on the boxes (order number, quantity, product<br />

number, product description etc.). Some materials like PVC are<br />

less popular or even forbidden in some countries because of environmental<br />

issues, and exporters should discuss this matter with<br />

potential clients and include the cost of the special price in their<br />

wholesale price, if required.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 126


The EU has issued a directive on packaging and packaging waste<br />

(94/62/EC) that is applicable, to a large extent, to <strong>Switzerland</strong> as<br />

well. Among other measures, the Directive sets maximum levels of<br />

concentrations of heavy metals in packaging and describes requirements<br />

specific to manufacturing and composition of packaging.<br />

The Directive needs to be transposed to the national legislation of<br />

the member states.<br />

The dispose of waste is increasingly difficult and expensive in<br />

Europe. In principle, the importer is held responsible for disposal<br />

of the packaging waste for all goods from outside the EU. It is<br />

therefore crucial, when planning exports to the EU, to take the packaging<br />

of your products (both sales packaging and transport packaging)<br />

into consideration. To fulfil the requirements of the target<br />

market, clear communication with the importer about packaging is<br />

highly recommended.<br />

Table 81: Size table for women's outerwear<br />

Character sizes XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL<br />

Figure size 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48<br />

Chest width 78-81 82-85 86-89 90-93 94-97 98-102 103-107 108-113<br />

Waist size 62-65 66-69 70-73 74-77 78-81 82-85 86-89 90-94<br />

Hip girth 89-91 92-95 96-98 99-101 102-104 105-108 109-112 113-116<br />

Table 82: Size table for men's outerwear except trousers and jeans<br />

Character sizes XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL<br />

Figure size 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58<br />

Chest width 86-89 90-93 94-97 98-101 102-105 106-109 110-113 114-117<br />

Waist size 74-77 78-81 82-85 86-89 90-94 95-99 100-104 105-109<br />

Hip girth 89-92 93-96 97-100 101-104 105-108 109-112 113-116 117-120<br />

Table 83: Size table for men's trousers [cm]<br />

Character sizes XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL<br />

Figure sizes 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58<br />

Waistband width 77 81 85 89 93 97 103 109<br />

Side length 77 79 81 83 85 86 87 87<br />

127 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Most of the previous systems, such as the German packaging<br />

waste programme the ‘Green Dot’ - where trade and industry<br />

in Germany and other EU countries were obliged to take back<br />

packaging materials - have lost importance over the last years,<br />

mainly because of misuse of the green dot which appeared almost<br />

on every imported packaging without an obligation to take back<br />

the packaging.<br />

New legislation about wood packaging has recently been introduced.<br />

More detailed information about packaging techniques and<br />

the use of packaging materials can be found on the website of ITC<br />

(http://www.intracen.org).<br />

Size<br />

The following body measurements are used: body length, chest<br />

size and hip size. These three basic measurements determine the<br />

fitting of the garments. The following sizes are similar in Germany,<br />

the Netherlands and Austria.


The EN 13402 is a voluntary European Standard aimed at making<br />

the buying of clothes simpler for the customer throughout Europe.<br />

At the moment, a woman with a bust of about 88cm, a waist of<br />

about 72cm and hips of about 96cm, takes a dress size:<br />

• 12 in the UK<br />

• C38in Norway, Sweden and Finland<br />

• 40 in Belgium and France<br />

• 38 in Germany and the Netherlands<br />

• 44 in Italy<br />

• 44/46 in Portugal and Spain.<br />

• (10 in the USA)<br />

EN 13402 suggests a new measurement system which would remove<br />

this confusion. It takes different dimensions such as height,<br />

bust, and waist, and displays these measurements in 4cm and<br />

8cm intervals.<br />

For example, a woman with a waist of 71cm, hips of 96cm and<br />

a height of 172cm, would look for a skirt displaying the following<br />

measurements on the label: waist 70-74cm, hips 94-98 cm, height<br />

170-174cm. The standard also suggests a language-neutral<br />

pictogram, on which these dimensions can be indicated, to enable<br />

easier purchasing abroad.<br />

Jeans sizes<br />

Jeans are sold internationally in inch sizes. They are read as<br />

follows: The first number refers to the girth of the waist and the<br />

second to the inside leg seam (inseam). Both are expressed in<br />

inches.<br />

Germany has a specific system for the men’s sizes, which are<br />

subdivided into three groups:<br />

• Standard sizes: 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62<br />

• Large sizes (shorter than standard sizes and wider at the hip):<br />

24 25 26<br />

• Slim sizes (longer than standard sizes and narrower): 84 86 88<br />

90 94 98 102 106<br />

Table 84: Size marking for babies' and children's wear<br />

Years Groups<br />

0-2 Babies<br />

2-6 Toddlers<br />

6-12 Middle group / school<br />

12-14 Pre-teens<br />

14-16 Teenagers<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 128


Infants’ Wear (body sizes)<br />

For the purposes of sizing all children are best grouped into<br />

infants (younger than seven years), boys and girls. The Swedish<br />

‘Centilong’ system based on height values is used in some European<br />

countries. There is one standard for all these sizes.<br />

Table 85: Body sizes infants [cm]<br />

Body sizes infants<br />

Height 50 56 62 68 74 80 86 92 98 104<br />

Chest 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 55 56<br />

Waist 40 42 44 46 48 49 50 51 52 53<br />

Hips 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57 59<br />

Arm length 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32.3 34.6 36.9<br />

Inside leg length 16 19 22 25 28 31 34 37 40.6 44.2<br />

Table 86: Boys' wear [cm]<br />

129 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Boys' wear<br />

Height 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 176 182 188 194<br />

Chetst 58 59 60 62 64 67 70 73 77 81 85 88 91 94 97<br />

Waist 54 55 56 57 59 61 63 65 68 71 74 77 80 83 86<br />

Hips 59 61 63 65 68 71 74 77 81 85 89 93 95 98 101<br />

Arm length 39.1 41.4 43.7 46 48.3 50.6 52.5 55.3 57.5 60 62.5 65 67 69 71<br />

Inside leg length 47.5 51 54.5 58 61.5 65 68 71 74 77 80 83 86 89 92<br />

Neck<br />

circumference<br />

28 28.5 29.5 30.5 31.5 32.5 33.5 34.5 35.5 36.5 37.5 38 38.5 39 39.5<br />

Table 87: Girls' wear [cm]<br />

Girls' wear<br />

Height 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 176 182 188<br />

Chest 58 59 60 62 64 67 71 75 79 83 86 89 92 95<br />

Waist 54 55 56 57 59 61 63 65 67 69 71 73 75 77<br />

Hips 61 63 65 67 70 73 77 81 85 89 93 96 99 102<br />

Arm length 39.1 41.4 43.7 46 48.3 50.6 52.8 55 57.3 59.5 61.5 63.5 65.5 67.5<br />

Inside leg<br />

length<br />

47.5 51 55 59 63 67 70 72.5 75 77.5 80 82.5 85 87.5<br />

Neck<br />

circumference<br />

28 28.5 29 29.5 30 30.7 31.5 32.2 33.3 33.7 34.5 35.5 36.5 37.5<br />

Shirts and Blouses<br />

In EU and <strong>Switzerland</strong>, sizes for men’s shirts are based on neck<br />

circumference in cm or inches and vary respectively from 37-48<br />

cm and from 15-19 in, and can be extended with other measurements,<br />

of which arm length is the most important. The sizes<br />

XS-XXL are also used for leisure or sport shirts, also in combination<br />

with the usual shirt size. For women’s and children’s wear, the<br />

standard outerwear sizes are used.


Labelling<br />

The International Association for Textile Care Labelling (GINETEX<br />

France - Groupement International d’Etiquetage pour l’Entretien<br />

des Textiles, www.ginetex.org), which represents the textile<br />

producing and retailing industries in 16 European countries (EU<br />

countries as well as <strong>Switzerland</strong> and Tunisia as non-EU countries<br />

included), has devised an internationally applicable care labelling<br />

system for textiles based on symbols of pictogram. Only those care<br />

labels issued by the GINETEX may be used by the retailers/manufacturers<br />

in the GINETEX member countries.<br />

The care identification symbols are protected under trademark law.<br />

The marks are owned by the aforementioned GINETEX Group.<br />

The care identification is also covered by international standards<br />

(ISO 3758 / EN 23 758).<br />

In <strong>Switzerland</strong>, the row of symbols may not be reproduced, issued<br />

or used without a special agreement with SARTEX (Swiss Association<br />

for Textile Marking – www.sartex.ch). The contracting companies<br />

undertake to make correct use of these symbols at all times<br />

within the meaning of the relevant guidelines.<br />

These guidelines apply to all textiles and textile products sold in<br />

<strong>Switzerland</strong> and require a declaration as to the kind and content<br />

of the raw materials used. Pursuant to the agreement with the<br />

user, legal action will be taken in the event of any breach of this<br />

undertaking. The textile labelling regulations set by the individual<br />

member states of the European Union (EU Standards) comply<br />

with the Swiss guidelines and requirements. The right to use these<br />

trademarks has been given to the national member bodies of<br />

GINETEX. SARTEX is independent in regard to its structure and<br />

operating methods, but should adhere in all respects to the use<br />

of internationally agreed symbols (above) as well as to technical<br />

regulations and decisions taken at the GINETEX level. Commercial<br />

companies (wholesalers, importers etc.) are required to include the<br />

undertaking to ensure correct care identification and appropriate<br />

labelling in compliance with the Swiss guidelines in their orders for<br />

deliveries.<br />

There are two kinds of requirements in the EU and <strong>Switzerland</strong>:<br />

Mandatory requirements contain requirements like size, fibre<br />

content and care-labelling/washing instructions. With regard to fibre<br />

content: the indication 100% or pure can be used within a margin<br />

of 2 percent of the weight of the final product. Other fibres with a<br />

weight of less than 10 percent of the weight of the final products<br />

can be mentioned; in that case, all other fibres must be mentioned.<br />

An international care-labelling program is in use in many countries,<br />

also outside the EU. The program uses five basic symbols,<br />

which relate to the properties of colour-fastness, dimensional<br />

stability, effect of retained chlorine (bleach), maximum safe ironing<br />

temperatures and certain other properties.<br />

Voluntary requirements, such as origin marking, brand or product<br />

name and other consumer information.<br />

The care label<br />

• should be durably fixed to the textile article,<br />

• should be legible during the whole lifetime of the article.<br />

In particular it should withstand the washing and dry cleaning<br />

process it recommends,<br />

• should be clearly positioned where it is easily noted and without<br />

interference from a seam,<br />

• should not show through the article and spoil its appearance.<br />

Other forms of information may be combined on the same label<br />

but clearly separated from each other. Garments consisting of<br />

easily separable parts should be labelled on each of the parts.<br />

There should only be one single care label on an article even if the<br />

different components have to carry further information (for example<br />

fibre content). The object of labelling is to inform the consumer<br />

and the commercial textile care industries when buying, using or<br />

cleaning the articles. Therefore labels should be easily detectable.<br />

The label should be affixed permanently and positioned always at<br />

the same places depending on the type of the article. Because of<br />

differences in materials, production, demands of fashion etc. these<br />

requests can only partially be fulfilled and by way of exception an<br />

alternative place of positioning is given. To achieve a maximum of<br />

conformity, recommended positions are laid down.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 130


Table 88: The washing labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)<br />

131 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Symbols Maximum washing temperature Care process<br />

95°C mechanical action normal<br />

rinsing normal<br />

spinning normal<br />

95°C mechanical action reduced<br />

rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature<br />

spinning reduced<br />

60°C mechanical action normal<br />

rinsing normal<br />

spinning normal<br />

60°C mechanical action reduced<br />

rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature<br />

spinning reduced<br />

40°C<br />

40°C<br />

40°C<br />

30°C<br />

mechanical action normal<br />

rinsing normal<br />

spinning normal<br />

mechanical action reduced<br />

rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature<br />

spinning reduced<br />

mechanical action highly reduced<br />

rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature<br />

spinning highly reduced<br />

mechanical action normal<br />

rinsing normal<br />

spinning normal


Symbols Maximum washing temperature Care process<br />

30°C<br />

30°C<br />

40°C hand wash only<br />

- Do not wash<br />

mechanical action reduced<br />

rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature<br />

spinning reduced<br />

mechanical action highly reduced<br />

rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature<br />

spinning highly reduced<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 132


Table 89: Ironing labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)<br />

Symbols Care Process<br />

133 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Iron at maximum soleplate<br />

temperature of 200° C<br />

Iron at maximum soleplate<br />

temperature of 150° C<br />

Iron at maximum soleplate<br />

temperature of 110° C<br />

(steam iron may be risky)<br />

Do not iron<br />

Dry cleaning<br />

Letters (A, P and F) in the circle refer to the solvents which may be<br />

used by dry cleaners. Underlining the circle indicates that a specific<br />

process should be used (mild process with strict limitations on<br />

the addition of water and/or mechanical action and/or temperature<br />

during cleaning and/or drying). In this case, self-service cleaning is<br />

not allowed.<br />

Table 90: Dry cleaning labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)<br />

Symbols Care Process<br />

Dry-cleaning in all solvents normally used<br />

for dry-cleaning except trichloroethylene with<br />

normal cleaning procedures.<br />

Self-service cleaning is possible<br />

The bar placed under the circle indicates<br />

strict limitations on the addition of water and/<br />

or mechanical action and/or temperature<br />

during cleaning and/or drying.<br />

Self-service cleaning is not allowed<br />

Only petroleum solvents may be used with<br />

normal cleaning procedures<br />

The bar placed under the circle indicates<br />

strict limitations on the addition of water and/<br />

or mechanical action and/or temperature<br />

during cleaning and/or drying.<br />

Self-service cleaning is not allowe<br />

Do not dry-clean - no stain removal with<br />

solvents<br />

Table 91: Dry cleaning labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)<br />

continued<br />

Symbols Care process<br />

No wet-cleaning possible<br />

Wet-cleaning possible<br />

Gentle wet-cleaning possible<br />

Very gentle wet-cleaning possible


Tumble drying<br />

The tumble drying symbol (a circle in a square) must be completed<br />

by one or two dots for two different temperature levels.<br />

Table 92: Tumble drying labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)<br />

Symbols Care process<br />

Bleaching<br />

No restrictions concerning the temperature<br />

of tumble drying after a washing process<br />

Tumble drying possible at lower<br />

temperature setting (60° C maximum) after<br />

a washing process<br />

Do not tumble dry<br />

Table 93: Bleaching labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)<br />

The empty triangle means that all<br />

bleaching processes are allowed<br />

The triangle with the two lines means that<br />

only oxygen based bleach and no chloride<br />

based bleach is allowed<br />

The crossed black triangle means that<br />

bleaching is not possible<br />

(normal washing powder allowed)<br />

Below is some useful general information how to use the care<br />

labels and what to write on them:<br />

Care Labelling – General Recommendations for Exporters<br />

Washing<br />

All garments worn close to the skin should preferably be washable<br />

at 60º C., normal mechanical agitation. All other garments should<br />

be washable at 40º C., normal mechanical agitation. The bar under<br />

the wash tub should only be used in the case of delicate fabrics.<br />

The bar indicates that the mechanical agitation should be reduced.<br />

The broken bar should only be used in the case of machine was-<br />

hable wool and machine washable silk. The broken bar indicates<br />

that the mechanical agitation should be much reduced. The handwash<br />

symbol should only be used for articles which cannot be<br />

washed in the washing machine.<br />

Bleaching<br />

Normally the symbol is crossed out. Ironing three dots for cotton<br />

and linen; two dots for acetate, metallised fibres, polyamide,<br />

polyester, tri-acetate, viscose, wool, angora and silk; one dot for<br />

acrylic, modacrylic, elastane. The symbol should be crossed out<br />

for chlorofibres and polypropylene.<br />

Dry cleaning<br />

Only use the symbol P. The bar under the symbol only to be used<br />

for delicate fabrics, especially those made from angora.#<br />

Tumble drying<br />

Two dots for all cotton and linen articles, one dot for all other compositions.<br />

Care should be taken that articles are finished properly<br />

to prevent excessive shrinkage. This should be tested.<br />

Note: the ‘weakest’ fibre determines the selection of the symbols in<br />

blended materials.<br />

Ecolabels<br />

In the late nineties and at the beginning of the millennium, various<br />

competing ecolabels were popular all over Europe. In the beginning,<br />

they were mainly used for under- and baby wear. Many<br />

labels have now disappeared and the approach to the whole ‘ecological’<br />

issue about textiles and clothing is broader and considers<br />

the whole supply-chain from the crop over the production process<br />

up to the delivery into the shop. Social and environmental aspects<br />

play an important role (cf. chapter on ‘Trade Related Environmental<br />

and Social Issues’).<br />

Currently, the German/Swiss Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is widely<br />

accepted in the EU countries and <strong>Switzerland</strong> as well.<br />

Öko-Tex 100<br />

A recent statistical evaluation of the certificates issued throughout<br />

the world highlighted the importance of the Oeko-Tex Standard<br />

100 as the world’s leading test label of its type at this time. Today,<br />

this label is the most widely used, and among European consumers<br />

best-known, ecolabel in relation to textiles and clothing.<br />

It was developed in 1993 by the ‘International Association for<br />

Research and Testing in the field of Textile Ecology’ and changed<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 134


in 1997. Companies in the EU, <strong>Switzerland</strong> and throughout the<br />

world have applied for more than 82'000 certificates (2009 data).<br />

The headquarters of Oeko-Tex International is located in Zürich/<br />

<strong>Switzerland</strong> (www.oeko-tex.com).<br />

Obtaining the Oeko-Tex label involves testing for harmful substances<br />

according to the criteria which are laid down for each<br />

product class. Harmful substances may have negative effect on<br />

the human health. Importers from outside the EU have become<br />

aware of the significance of this label. The number of the importers<br />

who ask for Oeko-Tex is growing continuously.<br />

The standard specifies four article classes:<br />

• Articles for babies<br />

• Articles in direct contact with skin<br />

• Articles without direct skin contact<br />

• Decoration material<br />

The standard consists of the following fundamental<br />

guidelines:<br />

• Requirements apply to the end product only<br />

• Exclusion of certain dyes which can cause cancer or allergic<br />

reactions<br />

• No flame retardant or biochemical treatment allowed<br />

• Limitation of harmful substances in the end product (pesticides,<br />

formaldehyde, heavy metals)<br />

• Differentiated limitations according to textile types and target<br />

groups<br />

The Oeko-Tex 100 Standard comprehensively addresses the<br />

Human Ecology component of textile products. It evaluates and<br />

screens for any harmful substances present within processed textiles<br />

intended to come into contact with consumers. The advantage<br />

for clothing exporters of applying for Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is<br />

that this system is built up in a modular way and enables reliable<br />

135 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

and comprehensive assessment within a realistic time frame. This<br />

is advantageous when considering the nature of the clothing and<br />

textile industry with its fashion-conscious, dynamic pace.<br />

The Oeko-Tex scheme is available to manufacturers world-wide.<br />

Although it is far more cost effective to test at each stage of the<br />

production process, it is still possible to certify the finished product<br />

itself at any time. Another advantage of the system is, that if a product<br />

is checked and certified at a particular stage of the production<br />

process chain, it can then be used in the next stage without having<br />

to be re-tested.<br />

The designation is restricted to one year, after which the product<br />

will need to undergo new testing. The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 as<br />

well as the Oeko-Tex 100 plus label have achieved a worldwide<br />

acceptance with an increased number of registered companies<br />

also in Asia and South America.<br />

Oeko-Tex Standard 100 plus<br />

The first edition of the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 was issued in 1995.<br />

It outlined the requirements for environmentally friendly production.<br />

Manufacturing sites fulfilling a strict set of criteria, addressing<br />

areas such as banned chemicals and harmful manufacturing<br />

processes were licensed to carry the label ‘Umweltfreundliche<br />

Betriebsstätte’ (lit. Environmentally Friendly Manufacturing Site)<br />

which they could use as proof of an environmental management<br />

system. First organizations were subsequently audited in a pilot<br />

project.<br />

The ‘Oeko-Tex Standard 100 plus’ label was awarded for the first<br />

time in 1999. This related to a finished product which fulfilled the<br />

requirements of the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and was also produced<br />

only on sites carrying the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 licence.<br />

Generally speaking, it can be recommended that clothing exporters<br />

from developing and emerging countries should concentrate<br />

on this OekoTex 100 label. The Oeko-Tex label can be used to<br />

distinguish a textile product from competitors.<br />

8.1.3 Trade related environmental and social issues<br />

Apart from legal requirements, nowadays producers are being<br />

confronted more and more with additional requirements. EU and<br />

Swiss buyers want more information from producers, for example<br />

about the social conditions at their production sites or environmentally<br />

sound production. Many companies are now, before signing


any contract with their suppliers checking the fulfilment of the social<br />

standards at the production site. The BSCI programme (more<br />

details under www.bsci-eu.org) is one organisation that takes a<br />

closer look on the social standards of producers. Although the<br />

requirements in this field are not a part of official legislation and<br />

have no legal basis, it is recommended to take them into account<br />

in order to be competitive.<br />

If a manufacturer wants to indicate to external parties that he is<br />

manufacturing in an environmentally sound way, he can comply<br />

with standards which have been developed for this purpose. The<br />

major standards and current market requirements are described in<br />

this chapter.<br />

Environmental requirements<br />

Environmental aspects play an important role for outerwear<br />

manufacturers interested in exporting to the European market<br />

given that environmental aspects are a major issue in the EU and<br />

<strong>Switzerland</strong>. Besides governmental actions (legislative, regulations),<br />

a strong consumer movement is not to be underestimated,<br />

especially in the Northern and Western parts of the EU (Scandinavia,<br />

Germany, Netherlands, United Kingdom) and in <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />

These aspects are not just a trend - these are lasting issues,<br />

which, together with other determinants such as price and quality,<br />

have a strongest impact on the positioning of a supplier in the<br />

European market.<br />

The capacity of a company to use the environmental approach towards<br />

its products such as eco-labels (for products, see also ecolabels),<br />

environmental management standards (for the whole organisation)<br />

and production processes are ‘green’ marketing tools,<br />

which have been created by governments and private parties.<br />

Being a part of the business chain, companies in developing<br />

countries may also become responsible for negative side effects<br />

of their business and their impact on society, the environment and<br />

their employees.<br />

Environmental management system<br />

An ‘Environmental Management System’ (EMS) is important for<br />

environmental protection and pollution prevention in the production<br />

phases. It is a management tool which enables an overview of<br />

the environmental impact of the company and the possible way it<br />

could be diminished. At the moment there are two general voluntary<br />

standards with which manufacturers can comply: ISO 14001<br />

and EMAS, both of them based on the popular ISO 9000 series of<br />

quality management standards.<br />

The EU’s Ecological Management and Audit Scheme (EMAS) has<br />

been operating since 1995. It applies to companies with production<br />

facilities within the EU and therefore is not relevant for exporters<br />

from developing countries. However, ISO 14001 is favoured by<br />

exporters to the EU and <strong>Switzerland</strong> as well.<br />

The ISO 14001 Environmental management system was published<br />

in November 1996. It has a similar impact to the ISO 9000<br />

Quality Management Systems series. The objective of ISO 14001<br />

standard is to provide companies with the necessary elements of<br />

an environmental management system, which can be integrated<br />

into business policies to achieve environmental and economic<br />

goals, such as compliance with legislation and demands set by the<br />

company as well as continuous improvement of the environmental<br />

performance of the company. ISO 14001 specifies only general<br />

requirements for an environmental management system, but it<br />

contains no environmental performance criteria.<br />

Product related requirements<br />

The main characteristics of the production process are the vast<br />

quantities of water required and the variety of chemicals used in<br />

the processing stages, which cause much waste. Typical environmental<br />

problems associated with the production of textiles are<br />

water pollution because of discharge of untreated effluent. Liquid<br />

wastes arising from washing contain a substantial organic and<br />

suspended pollution load, such as fibres and grease. Effluents are<br />

generally hot, alkaline, strong smelling and coloured by chemicals<br />

used in dyeing processes. Some of the chemicals discharged are<br />

toxic and can lower the dissolved oxygen of receiving waters, threaten<br />

aquatic life and damage general water quality downstream.<br />

There are many ways to reduce the amount of water used and<br />

emitted. Concerning dyes and pigments, there are many alternatives<br />

available which are less polluting. Other technologies make it<br />

possible to use less dye and reduce or eliminate spillage of dyes.<br />

Quality related requirements<br />

A quality related requirement is the so called Quality management<br />

standards which refer to the management of a company. This is<br />

in contrast to most of the other standards, labels and markings<br />

described, all of which relate to product or production processes.<br />

Quality management standards are not compulsory for market<br />

entry into the EU; however, they can definitely contribute to<br />

the company’s image in the market. The most important quality<br />

management system is ISO 9000, inspired by the concept of Total<br />

Quality Management. TQM is a philosophy based on customer sa-<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 136


tisfaction and continuous performance improvement. ISO established<br />

a policy committee, DEVCO, specifically to address the needs<br />

of developing countries. See http://www.iso.org<br />

Azo dyes and other harmful substances<br />

Azo dyes are among the leading colouring agents in the textile<br />

industry, especially in developing countries. Approximately 70% of<br />

all dyes used in the textile industry are azo dyes. There are about<br />

2'000 different azo dyes, of which approximately 200-300 may fall<br />

under a ban. Dyes in the category of direct, azoic/naphtol, disperse,<br />

acid or basic dyes may split off carcinogenic amines.<br />

Many azo dyes above the concentration of 30 ppm are prohibited<br />

in the EU and also in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. The ban on azo dyes is applicable<br />

to all products that are in contact with skin for long periods<br />

of time. The manufacturer must also take into consideration the<br />

fact that the products, once they have entered the EU, can be ‘reexported’<br />

or transferred easily to <strong>Switzerland</strong> and other European<br />

countries. Therefore, it is highly recommendable to follow the Azo<br />

regulations.<br />

The best way to avoid problems with banned azo dyes is to use<br />

only dyes which are absolutely safe. Use dyestuff supplied by<br />

reputable manufacturers, who give the Colour Index numbers, the<br />

generic names and material data sheets. Ask for azo-safe certificates,<br />

choose reputable certified laboratories and discuss this<br />

matter with your customer.<br />

Other substances used in the textile and clothing industry that are<br />

banned (or allowed to a limited extent) in some EU countries and<br />

<strong>Switzerland</strong> are: pentachlorophenol (PCP), cadmium, formaldehyde<br />

and nickel. Polychlorobipheniles (PCB) and terphenyles<br />

(PCT) have a total prohibition, as do asbestos and certain flame<br />

retardants.<br />

Flame retardants<br />

Flame retardants are used in textiles to reduce their flammability.<br />

Tri- (2, 3, -dibromopropyl)-phosphate (TRIS) and tris-(aziridinyl)phosphineoxide<br />

(TEPA) are both carcinogenic and mutagenic,<br />

which means that these substances may alter genetic material.<br />

Polybromobiphenyles (PBB) are highly persistent, carcinogenic<br />

and reprotoxic. Moreover they also have effects on the immune<br />

system and the nerve system.<br />

137 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Since 1 June 2009, the prohibition of the use of three flame<br />

retardants is laid down in Annex XVII to the EU Regulation (EC)<br />

1907/2006 on the registration, evaluation and authorisation of chemicals<br />

(REACH), which is directly applicable in all member states.<br />

Until this date, this matter was regulated by means of Directive<br />

76/769/EEC on the marketing and use of certain dangerous substances<br />

and preparations and its amendments, which is repealed<br />

by the REACH Regulation.<br />

The EU legislation prohibits the use of:<br />

• Tri-(2, 3, -dibromopropyl)-phosphate (TRIS) (CAS No1 126-72-7)<br />

• Tris-(aziridinyl)-phosphineoxide (TEPA) (CAS No 5455-55-1)<br />

• Polybromobiphenyles (PBB) (CAS No 59536-65-1)<br />

in textile articles intended to come into contact with skin, like<br />

garments, underwear and linen. They are also prohibited in <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />

Nickel in clothing accessories<br />

Nickel is a metal that is sometimes used in alloys used for ornaments<br />

(such as armlets, bracelets and earrings) and in clothing<br />

accessories (such as zippers and buttons). The occurrence of increasing<br />

number of cases of people with nickel allergy symptoms<br />

has forced the EU to set limits for the nickel content in products<br />

coming in contact with the skin.<br />

Since 1 June 2009, the restriction on the nickel1 content in certain<br />

products is laid down in Annex XVII to the new EU Regulation<br />

(EC) 1907/2006 on the registration, evaluation and authorisation<br />

of chemicals (REACH), which is directly applicable in all member<br />

states. Until this date, this matter was regulated by means of<br />

Directive 76/769/EEC on the marketing and use of certain dangerous<br />

substances and preparations and its amendments, which<br />

will be repealed by REACH. The legislation lays down certain<br />

requirements for specific applications which are presented in the<br />

next table.<br />

Perfluorooctane sulfonates (PFOS)<br />

Perfluoroocatane sulfonates (PFOS) are commercially available<br />

in the form of salts, derivatives and polymers. PFOS-related<br />

substances are used for providing grease, oil and water resistance<br />

to materials such as textiles, carpets, upholstery, leather, apparel,


paper and packaging and in general coating. The substances<br />

used in these areas are largely PFOS-polymers for fabrics and<br />

PFOS-substances for paper treatment and coatings. Other smaller<br />

volume uses are in chromium plating, photography, photolithography,<br />

fire fighting foams and in hydraulic fluids for aviation.<br />

Recent studies have shown that the PFOS are persistent, bioaccumulative<br />

and toxic for mammals. PFOS have the potential to<br />

spread over large distances and produce adverse effects on the<br />

environment. They therefore fulfil the criteria for being considered<br />

as persistent organic pollutants (POPs). In order to protect the<br />

environment from these substances, legislation has been laid<br />

down that sets strict limits for the use and marketing of PFOS and<br />

products containing PFOS.<br />

Table 94: Maximal content of PFOS permitted<br />

Application Max. content permitted<br />

As a substance or<br />

< 0.005% by mass<br />

constituent of preparations<br />

As semi-finished products < 0.1% by mass<br />

or articles, or parts thereof<br />

In textiles or other coated


ciples or Codes of Conduct. These reflect the company’s position<br />

towards business ethics, labour conditions, environment. They<br />

should point out the contribution of the company to these issues.<br />

The company also has to introduce mechanisms which measure<br />

the true effectiveness of the Code of Conduct.<br />

Social Accountability (SA 8000)<br />

SA 8000 is an international standard for social accountability and<br />

was founded in 1997. Its purpose is to ensure ethical sourcing<br />

of goods and services. It is a voluntary standard, which sets<br />

basic standards for child labour, forced labour, health and safety,<br />

freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining,<br />

discrimination, disciplinary practices, wage levels, working hours<br />

and compensation. The requirements in the standard are based<br />

on recommendations of the International Labour Organization<br />

(ILO) and on agreements and conventions of the United Nations<br />

(Human Rights, Rights of the Child).<br />

SA 8000 supports the demands of consumers for worldwide social<br />

standards and is internationally recognized. SA 8000 accreditation<br />

is valid for three years with surveillance and observation audits<br />

every six months. Those that meet the requirements have the right<br />

to display the SA 8000 certification mark.<br />

Clean Clothes Campaign<br />

The European wide ‘Clean Clothes Campaign’ based in Amsterdam,<br />

which is based on the SA 8000 regulations, is also politically<br />

very strong in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. This organization publishes regular<br />

newsletters regarding ‘social behaviour’ when dealing with the<br />

supplier countries of leading Swiss clothing retailers and manufacturers<br />

(please compare www.cleanclothes.ch and www.evb.ch).<br />

Sources of Information<br />

For detailed information about environmental aspects relevant to<br />

trade at EU level, please refer to the websites of SIPPO and CBI<br />

(www.sippo.ch and www.cbi.nl, especially the CBI Access Guide.<br />

Other sources of information are the WTO web site (http://www.<br />

wto.org), the European Commission (http://europa.eu).<br />

8.1.4 Present trade regulations<br />

European Union<br />

All EU countries apply common Customs tariffs to imports from<br />

outside the Union. If there is no special trade agreement in force,<br />

the general import tariff applies.<br />

139 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Most of the developing countries have been granted special trade<br />

preferences; these countries usually benefit from zero duties<br />

through preferential treatment under the Renewed Generalised<br />

System of Preferences (RGSP) or under the 4th Lomé Convention<br />

for the African, Caribbean and Pacific (ACP) countries.<br />

RGSP (Renewed Generalised System of Preferences)<br />

This agreement allows products originating in the countries<br />

concerned to be imported at preferential tariffs or, for the least<br />

developed countries even duty-free. A ‘Certificate of Origin Form<br />

A’ has to be filled in by the exporter and issued by the competent<br />

authorities. Tariff contingents and ceilings do not exist any more.<br />

As stated in Resolution 21 (ii) taken at the UNCTAD II Conference<br />

in New Delhi in 1968;<br />

"… the objectives of the generalized, non-reciprocal, non-discriminatory<br />

system of preferences in favour of the developing countries,<br />

including special measures in favour of the least advanced among<br />

the developing countries, should be:<br />

(a) to increase their export earnings;<br />

(b) to promote their industrialization; and<br />

(c) to accelerate their rates of economic growth."<br />

Under GSP schemes of preference-giving counties, selected<br />

products originating in developing countries are granted reduced<br />

or zero tariff rates over the MFN rates. The least developed countries<br />

(LDCs) receive special and preferential treatment for a wider<br />

coverage of products and deeper tariff cuts.<br />

The idea of granting developing countries preferential tariff rates in<br />

the markets of industrialized countries was originally presented by<br />

Raul Prebisch, the first Secretary-General of UNCTAD, at the first<br />

UNCTAD conference in 1964. The GSP was adopted at UNCTAD<br />

II in New Delhi in 1968.<br />

In 1971, the GATT Contracting Parties approved a waiver to Article<br />

I of the General Agreement for 10 years in order to authorize the<br />

GSP scheme. Later, the Contracting Parties decided to adopt the<br />

1979 Enabling Clause, Decision of the Contracting Parties of 28<br />

November 1979 (26S/203) entitled "Differential and more favourable<br />

treatment, reciprocity and fuller participation of developing


countries", creating a permanent waiver to the most-favoured-nation<br />

clause to allow preference-giving countries to grant preferential<br />

tariff treatment under their respective GSP schemes.<br />

There are currently 13 national GSP schemes notified to the UNC-<br />

TAD secretariat. The following countries grant GSP preferences:<br />

Australia, Belarus, Bulgaria, Canada, Estonia, the European<br />

Union, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, the Russian Federation,<br />

<strong>Switzerland</strong>, Turkey and the United States of America.<br />

Lomé Convention (for ACP countries)<br />

The partnership agreement between the European Union (EU)<br />

member states and the African, Caribbean and Pacific (ACP)<br />

states marks five generations of agreements between ACP-EC<br />

sovereign states. It is the world’s largest financial and political<br />

framework for North-South cooperation.<br />

Its main characteristics are:<br />

the partnership principle, the contractual nature of the relationship,<br />

and the combination of aid, trade and political aspects, together<br />

with its long-term perspective (5 years for Lomé I, II, and III, and<br />

ten for Lomé IV). Products originating in the ACP countries can be<br />

imported without duties and quotas, when a ‘Movement Certificate<br />

EUR.1’ is filled in by the exporter and issued by the competent<br />

authorities, such as the local Chamber of Commerce. Tariff contingents<br />

and tariff ceilings no longer exist.<br />

Preferential duty regimes under Free Trade Agreements (FTAs)<br />

The EU also has many free trade agreements with partners in the<br />

region (the central European countries, the Mediterranean countries)<br />

and beyond (Mexico, Chile). FTAs now increasingly involve<br />

provisions affecting non-tariff measures and regulatory issues<br />

such as provisions on trade facilitation and rule-making in areas<br />

such as investment, intellectual property, government procurement,<br />

technical standards and SPS issues.<br />

The following Free Trade Agreement is also valid for <strong>Switzerland</strong>:<br />

• Canada<br />

• Chile<br />

• Croatia<br />

• Egypt<br />

• Israel<br />

• Jordan<br />

• South Korea<br />

• Lebanon<br />

• Macedonia<br />

• Mexico<br />

• Morocco<br />

• Palestinian National Authority<br />

• Singapore<br />

• Southern African Customs Union<br />

(Botswana, Lesotho, Namibia, Swaziland, South Africa)<br />

• Tunisia<br />

• Turkey<br />

Signed agreement 2008, not yet ratified<br />

• Colombia<br />

Signed agreement 2009, not yet ratified<br />

• Gulf Co-operation Council (Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman,<br />

Qatar, Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates)<br />

Finalised negotiations 2008<br />

• Peru<br />

Currently negotiating agreements<br />

• Algeria<br />

• Hong Kong<br />

• India<br />

• Thailand<br />

Declarations on Cooperation<br />

• Albania<br />

• Mercosur (Brazil, Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay)<br />

• Mongolia<br />

• Serbia<br />

• Ukraine<br />

Non-tariff barriers<br />

Examples of non-tariff barriers are anti-dumping measures,<br />

sanitary sanctions, quota restrictions, environmental clauses and<br />

intellectual property rights. The most important form of non-tariff<br />

barriers regarding clothing is quota restrictions.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 140


Many clothing items are already quota-free, but WTO rules allow<br />

importer countries to impose anti-dumping duties if there is evidence<br />

that markets are being disrupted by selling below costs.<br />

Anti-dumping measures<br />

Anti-dumping implies that, under WTO regulations, exporters are<br />

expected to sell their products at fair market value, at a price above<br />

cost and without imposing higher domestic prices for the same<br />

product that would in effect subsidize their lower export prices. In<br />

the event of predatory pricing by a particular company or country,<br />

the importing country is allowed to impose a duty surcharge on the<br />

imported product, to bring the final price up to fair market value.<br />

Anti-fraud investigations and actions<br />

Besides anti-dumping measures, the EU is stepping up anti-fraud<br />

investigations and actions against fraud designed to:<br />

• circumvent trade policy measures, such as anti-dumping<br />

measures;<br />

• benefit illegally from preferential treatment such as that<br />

under GSP;<br />

• cheat consumers (claiming EU origin for products produced<br />

elsewhere);<br />

• combat counterfeiting and piracy (copying exclusive designs<br />

and models without permission of the owner).<br />

Financial instruments in the EU<br />

The awarding of tariff preferences or the levying of ‘environmental<br />

taxes’ on products is one of the major instruments of the<br />

EU (besides legislation) to promote environmentally sound<br />

products. Such preferential systems are the common subsidy<br />

and schemes, Green GSP, which works on the assumption<br />

that extra preferences can be awarded on top of the preferences<br />

for producers who show their commitment to the environment<br />

and who search for cleaner production techniques to reduce the<br />

environmental damage from their production processes and final<br />

products. The EU principle ‘the polluter pays’ becomes obvious<br />

as responsibilities for pollution prevention and clean-up are<br />

increasingly placed in the hand of the polluter. European importers<br />

faced with this will want to share such extra costs with their<br />

developing country partners.<br />

141 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

<strong>Switzerland</strong><br />

General Foreign Trade Conditions - World Trade Organization<br />

(WTO) and Free Trade Agreements<br />

On July 1st, 1995 <strong>Switzerland</strong> joined the WTO (formerly GATT)<br />

and since then has applied the ‘most favoured clause’ regarding<br />

trade to all WTO member countries. This also applies to dealings<br />

with regions and countries where <strong>Switzerland</strong> has signed bilateral<br />

or multilateral agreements on trade. Furthermore, by joining<br />

the WTO, <strong>Switzerland</strong> had to change most of the non-tariff trade<br />

barriers to customs duties. Moreover, <strong>Switzerland</strong> is a member of<br />

the European Free Trade Association (EFTA). The dismantling of<br />

tariffs by the EFTA, in parallel to the European Economic Community<br />

(EEC), has eliminated to a large degree the customs duties<br />

between the European Union (EU), the EFTA countries and <strong>Switzerland</strong>,<br />

at least as regards industrial products (including clothing).<br />

Within the EFTA framework, <strong>Switzerland</strong> is part of the Schengen<br />

Area. Further, ‘pan- European cumulation’ has been in effect since<br />

July 1st 1997. <strong>Switzerland</strong> has entered bilateral trade agreements<br />

with numerous other countries to prevent double taxation and to<br />

protect and promote mutual investment.<br />

The Swiss generalised system of preferences<br />

General principles<br />

The preferential treatment given to exports of developing countries<br />

is designed to help increase and diversify their export. The<br />

Swiss Generalised System of Preferences (GSP) was introduced<br />

on March 1st, 1972 in compliance with <strong>Switzerland</strong>’s intention to<br />

implement Resolution 21 (II) adopted by the United Nations Conference<br />

on Trade And Development (UNCTAD) in 1968.<br />

Beneficiaries of preferences<br />

In principle, all developing countries and economies in transition<br />

are eligible for preferences under the Swiss scheme, with the<br />

exception of countries or territories that have reached a high<br />

level of development. The exclusion is based on objective criteria.<br />

GSP benefits will not be granted to countries which are members<br />

of OECD or have a free trade agreement with <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />

Also excluded are countries which the Development Assistance<br />

Committee (DAC) of the OECD has classified as a most advanced<br />

developing country or territory under Part II of its list of development<br />

aid recipients. Scope of preferences


<strong>Switzerland</strong> grants preferential reductions amounting to 50% of the<br />

normal rate on textiles and clothing. The least developed countries<br />

benefit from exemption for clothing and textiles. Complete<br />

up-to-date information on custom tariffs may be obtained from the<br />

Federal Customs Administration OZD.<br />

Rules of Origin<br />

The Swiss Scheme includes rules of origin which the goods must<br />

comply with in order to qualify for GSP treatment. To satisfy the<br />

rules of origin, the goods have to be either wholly produced in<br />

the beneficiary country or they must have undergone working or<br />

processing in a beneficiary country to specific processing criteria<br />

laid down in the regulations.<br />

The prerequisites for the origin of import textiles and clothing applied<br />

in the Swiss Generalised System of Preferences have been<br />

harmonised with EU and Norway. The rules related to the origin of<br />

manufactured goods were adapted to conform with the Pan- European<br />

cumulation system of October 1st, 1998. Therefore, textiles<br />

and clothing containing raw materials from EU countries and<br />

Norway may also be granted preference.<br />

Custom tariff<br />

Customs duties<br />

Although <strong>Switzerland</strong> has been a member of the Schengen Area<br />

since the end of 2008, it is not part of the European Customs Union.<br />

As a result, customs controls remain in place. The most important<br />

document for customs clearance is the customs declaration,<br />

which must be accompanied by the exporter’s invoice (indicating<br />

the weight) and confirmation of origin. A certificate of origin is<br />

required if one wishes to benefit from preferential duty rates or if<br />

the goods are to be re-exported.<br />

Unlike most other countries, <strong>Switzerland</strong> uses a system of<br />

customs clearance based on weight. This specific customs duty<br />

is therefore levied on products from non-EU/EFTA countries on<br />

the basis of weight. As a result, Swiss customs duties are usually<br />

lower than those of other countries. This favours the importation of<br />

high-quality technical components, which weigh very little but are<br />

extremely valuable.<br />

VAT (7.6%) is much lower than in neighbouring countries (Germany:<br />

19%, France: 19.6%, Austria: 20%, Italy: 20%).<br />

8.1.5 Implications after the elimination of the textile quotas<br />

The main challenges facing the European Union and Swiss<br />

textiles and clothing sector today are globalisation, modernisation<br />

and a murderous competition. Market access and fair trade have<br />

a higher priority for the textiles and clothing sector than 5 years<br />

back. Opening new markets, negotiations of bilateral agreements<br />

are aimed at ensuring that industry has time to adjust to full liberalisation.<br />

The EU and Swiss apparel imports showed a constant increase<br />

in recent years. In their outsourcing strategies, EU and Swiss<br />

manufacturers prefer Eastern European countries even over some<br />

Asian countries with even lower wage rates (such as Vietnam or<br />

China) due to their geographical proximity and their higher quality<br />

standards. Thus, EU and Swiss companies remain able to respond<br />

quickly to changing market demands.<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 142


9. Appendix.<br />

9.1 Associations of trade agents, wholesalers organisations and retail<br />

organisations in the countries analysed.<br />

9.1.1 Europe<br />

AEDT<br />

European Association of<br />

National Organisations of<br />

Textile Retailers<br />

9.1.2 France<br />

Federation Nationale des<br />

Entreprises A Commerces<br />

Multiples<br />

Federation of multiples and<br />

department stores<br />

Federation Nationale des<br />

Grands Magasins et des<br />

Magasins Populaires<br />

National federation of department<br />

stores<br />

143 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

9-13/4th,<br />

Avenue des Nerviens<br />

B - 1040 Bruxelles<br />

Tel.: +32 – 2 – 230 5296<br />

Fax: +32 – 2 – 230 2569<br />

www.aedt.org<br />

info@aedt.org<br />

46, Bd Magenta<br />

F - 75010 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4202 1769<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 4206 5209<br />

(no website)<br />

11, rue Saint-Florentin<br />

F - 75008 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 42 60 02<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 42 60 15 09<br />

(no website)<br />

9.1.3 Germany<br />

Aussenhandelsvereinigung<br />

des Deutschen<br />

Einzelhandels Ev (Ave)<br />

Foreign Trade Association of<br />

German Retailers<br />

Bundesverband Des<br />

Deutschen Gross- Und<br />

Aussenhandels E.V. (BGA)<br />

Federal Association of<br />

German<br />

Wholesalers and Exporters<br />

Bundesverband des Deutschen<br />

Textileinzelhandels<br />

E. V. (BTE)<br />

Association of German<br />

Textile Retailers<br />

Bundesverband des Deutschen<br />

Versandhandels eV<br />

Association Of German Mail<br />

Ordercompanies<br />

Centralvereinigung<br />

Deutscher Wirtschaftsverbände<br />

Für Handelsvermittlung<br />

und Vertrieb<br />

(CDH)<br />

National Association of<br />

Trade Agents<br />

Mauritiussteinweg 1<br />

D - 50676 Köln<br />

Tel.: +49 – 221 – 921834 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 221 – 921834 – 6<br />

www.ave-koeln.de<br />

info@ave-koeln.de<br />

Am Weidendamm 1 A<br />

D - 10117 Berlin<br />

Tel.: +49 – 305 – 900 995 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 305 – 900 995 – 19<br />

www.bga.de<br />

info@bga.de<br />

An Lyskirchen 14<br />

D - 50676 Köln<br />

Tel.: +49 – 221 – 921 509 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 221 – 921 509 – 10<br />

www.bte.de<br />

info@bte.de<br />

Johann-Klotz-Str. 12<br />

D - 60528 Frankfurt/M.<br />

Tel.: +49 – 69 – 678 656 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 69 – 678 656 – 29<br />

www.versandhandel.org<br />

info@versandhandel.org<br />

Am Weidenbaum 1 A<br />

D - 10117 Berlin<br />

Tel.: +49 – 30 – 726 25600<br />

Fax: +49 – 30 – 726 25699<br />

www.cdh.de<br />

centralvereinigung@cdh.de


9.1.4 Italy 9.1.5 Spain<br />

Camera Nazionale Della<br />

Moda Italiana<br />

National Fashion Organisation<br />

Federazione Nazionale<br />

Associazioni Agenti e<br />

Rappresentanti di<br />

Commercio<br />

National Organisation of<br />

Trade Agents<br />

and Representatives<br />

Federazione Nazionale<br />

Dettaglianti Tessili e<br />

Abbigliamento<br />

National Organisation of Textile<br />

and Clothing Retailers<br />

Federazione Moda Italia<br />

Italian Fashion Organisation<br />

Sistema Moda Italia (SMI)<br />

Association of Italian Textile<br />

and Clothing Industry<br />

V. Morone Gerolamo 6<br />

I - 20121 Milano (MI)<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 777 1081<br />

Fax:<br />

+39 (0) – 2 777 10850 62<br />

www.cameramoda.it<br />

cameramoda@cameramoda.it<br />

Corso Venezia, 51<br />

I - 20121 Milano<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 – 764 5191<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 2 – 7600 8493<br />

www.fnaarc.it<br />

info@fnaarc.it<br />

Via Palestro, 24<br />

I - 20121 Milano<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 – 7601<br />

5212<br />

Fax:<br />

+39 (0) – 2 – 7600 3779<br />

(no website)<br />

Via Durini, 14<br />

I - 20122 – Milano<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2-7601 5212<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 2-7600 3779<br />

www.federazionemodaitalia.it<br />

info@federazionemodaitalia.it<br />

Viale Sarca, 223<br />

I - 20126 Milano<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 641191<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 2 66103667<br />

www.sistemamodaitalia.it<br />

info@sistemamodaitalia.it<br />

Asociacion de Comercio<br />

Textil - Acotex<br />

Association of Textile Trade<br />

Companies in the Region of<br />

Madrid<br />

Asociacion Espanola de<br />

Importadores y Distribuidores<br />

de Moda (Animoda)<br />

Association of Fashion Importers<br />

and Wholesalers<br />

Consejo Intertextil Espanol<br />

(CIE)<br />

Spanish International Textile<br />

Association<br />

Gremi de Comerc Textil i<br />

Sastreria<br />

Trade Association for Textile<br />

and Clothing<br />

Secretaria General de<br />

Comercio Exterior<br />

General Secretary of Foreign<br />

Trade<br />

C. Alberto Aguilera 66<br />

1-DCHA<br />

E - 28015 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-549 2397<br />

Fax: +34-91-549 9256<br />

www.acotex.org<br />

Lagasca 27-2 A<br />

E - 28001 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-4352 805<br />

Fax: +34-91-5761-735<br />

www.animoda.org<br />

Gran Via 670<br />

E - 08010 Barcelona<br />

Tel.: +34-93-318 9200<br />

Fax: +34-93-302 6235<br />

www.aitpa.es<br />

aitpa@aitpa.es<br />

Diputaci 290 pral.<br />

E - 08009 Barcelona<br />

Tel.: +34-933-017980<br />

Fax: +34-933-018720<br />

www.gremicomerctextil.es<br />

agtc@bcn.servicom.es<br />

Paeso de la Castellana 162<br />

E - 28071 Madrid<br />

www.mcx.es<br />

Buzon.Oficial@secgcomex.<br />

sscc.mcx.es<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 144


9.1.6 <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />

Swiss Fashion Stores<br />

Association of Fashion<br />

retailers<br />

c/o KPMG Fides - Hofgut<br />

Swiss Retail Federation<br />

Federation of retailers<br />

VSF – Verband<br />

Schweizerischer<br />

Filialunternehmen<br />

Federation of Swiss Chain<br />

Stores -<br />

c/o<br />

Advokaturbüro Utzinger<br />

VSIG – Vereinigung des<br />

Schweizer Import- und<br />

Grosshandels<br />

Association of Swiss<br />

Importers and<br />

Wholesalers<br />

VSV – Verband des<br />

Schweizerischen<br />

Versandhandels<br />

Federation of Swiss Mail<br />

Order Companies<br />

145 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

CH - 3073 Gümlingen<br />

Tel.: +41-31-384 77 04<br />

Fax: +41-31-384 76 96<br />

www.swiss-fashion-stores.ch<br />

office@swiss-fashion-stores.ch<br />

Marktgasse 50<br />

CH - 3000 Bern 7<br />

Tel.: +41-31-312 40 40<br />

Fax: +41-31-312 40 41<br />

www.swiss-retail.ch<br />

info@swiss-retail.ch<br />

Frohburgstr. 98<br />

CH - 8006 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41-44-363 14 00<br />

Fax: +41-44-363 15 25<br />

www.vsf-schweiz.ch<br />

vsf@ku-law.ch<br />

Güterstr. 78<br />

CH - 4010 Basel<br />

Tel.: +41-61-228 90 30<br />

Fax: +41-61-228 90 39<br />

www.vsig.ch<br />

info@vsig.ch<br />

General Wille-Strasse 144<br />

8706 Meilen<br />

Tel.: +41-58 - 310 07 17<br />

Fax: +41-58-310 07 18<br />

www.vsv-versandhandel.ch<br />

info@vsv-versandhandel.ch<br />

9.1.7 United Kingdom<br />

British Agents Register 5A Chelttenham Mount<br />

Harrogate,<br />

North Yorkshire<br />

GB - HG1 1DW<br />

Tel.: +44-1423-560608/9<br />

Fax: +44-1423-561204<br />

www.agentsregister.com<br />

info@agentsregister.com<br />

British Fashion Council Somerset House, South Wing<br />

Strand, London, WC2R 1LA<br />

Tel.: +44 - 20-7759 1999<br />

www.britishfashioncouncil.com<br />

info@britishfashioncouncil.com<br />

British Menswear Guild 5 Portland Place<br />

GB - London, W1B 1PW<br />

Tel.: +44-20-7580 8783<br />

Fax: +44-20-7436 8833<br />

www.british-menswear-guild.<br />

co.uk<br />

director@british-mens-wearguild.<br />

co.uk<br />

British shops and store<br />

Association Ltd. (Bssa)<br />

Middleton House<br />

2 Main Road –<br />

Middleton Cheney<br />

GB - Banbury – Oxon OX17 2TN<br />

Tel.: +44-1295-712277<br />

Fax: +44-1295-711665<br />

www.british-shops.co.uk<br />

info@bssa.co.uk


9.2 Industry federations in<br />

<strong>Switzerland</strong> and EU-countries.<br />

9.2.1 France<br />

Union Francaise<br />

des Industries de<br />

l’habillement (UFIH)<br />

French Clothing Manufacturers<br />

Association<br />

Union Des Industries<br />

Textiles (UIT)<br />

Textile Industry Association<br />

9.2.2 Germany<br />

GermanFashion Modeverband<br />

Deutschland e.V<br />

German Fashion Federation<br />

Gesamtverband der<br />

deutschen Textil- und<br />

Modeindustrie e.V.<br />

German Textile and Fashion<br />

Industry<br />

9.2.3 Italy<br />

Federtessile<br />

Textile Industry Federation<br />

8, rue de Montesquieu<br />

F - 75001 Paris<br />

Tel: + 33 - 1 44 55 66 60<br />

Fax: +33 - 1 44 55 66 66<br />

www.lamodefrancaise.org<br />

secretariatufih@lamodefrancaise.org<br />

37/39, rue de Neuilly<br />

F - 92110 Clichy<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4756 3100<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 4730 2528<br />

www.textile.fr<br />

admin@textile.fr<br />

An Lyskirchen 14<br />

D - 50676 Köln<br />

Tel.: +49 – 221 – 7744 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 221 – 7744 – 137<br />

www.germanfashion.net<br />

info@germanfashion.net<br />

Reinhardtstr. 12 -14<br />

10117 Berlin<br />

Tel: +49 - 30 726220-0<br />

Fax +49 - 30 726220-44<br />

www.textile-online.de<br />

info@textil-mode.de<br />

Viale Sarca 223<br />

I - 20126 Milano<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2-6610 3440<br />

Fax: 39 (0) – 2-6610 3455<br />

9.2.4 Spain<br />

AITPA<br />

National Association of<br />

Textile Industry<br />

Asociación Española de<br />

Constructores de Maquinaria<br />

Textil y de Confeccion<br />

Association of Spanish Knitwear<br />

and Ready-to-Wear<br />

Manufacturers<br />

9.2.5 <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />

Schweizerischer Gewerbeverband<br />

Swiss Trade Association<br />

Swissfashion – Gesamtverband<br />

Der SchweizerischenBekleidungsindustrie<br />

Swiss Clothing Manufacturers<br />

Association<br />

Gran Via 670<br />

E - 08010 Barcelona<br />

Tel.: +34-93-318 9200<br />

Fax: +34-93-302 6235<br />

www.aitpa.es<br />

aitpa@aitpa.es<br />

Riera Sant Miquel 3<br />

E - 08006 Barcelona<br />

Tel.: +34-934-150 422<br />

Fax: +34-934-160 980<br />

www.amec.es/amtex<br />

amtex@amec.es<br />

Schwarztorstrasse 26<br />

Postfach<br />

CH-3001 Bern<br />

Tel: +41 31 380 14 14<br />

Fax: +41 31 380 14 15<br />

www.sgv-usam.ch<br />

info@sgv.usam.ch<br />

Beethovenstrasse 20<br />

CH - 8022 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41-44-289 79 79<br />

Fax: +41-44-289 79 80<br />

www.swisstextiles.ch<br />

zuerich@swisstextiles.ch<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 146


9.2.6 United Kingdom<br />

British Apparel & Textile<br />

Confederation<br />

The British Chambers Of<br />

Commerce<br />

Confederation Of British<br />

Wool Textiles<br />

147 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

5, Portland Place<br />

GB - London W1N 3AA<br />

Tel: +44-171-636 7788<br />

Fax: +44-171-636 7515<br />

www.apparel-textiles.co.uk<br />

65 Petty France<br />

St James Park<br />

GB - London SW1H 9E4<br />

Tel.: +44-20-7654 5800<br />

Fax : +44-20-7654 5819<br />

www.britishchambers.org.uk<br />

info@britishchambers.org.uk<br />

Textile House<br />

Red Doles Lane<br />

Huddersfield HD2 1YF<br />

Tel.: +44-1484 346500<br />

Fax: +44-1484 346501<br />

www.cbwt.co.uk<br />

info@cbwt.co.uk


9.3 Major European trade fairs.<br />

9.3.1 France<br />

Fatex - Paris<br />

organised by:<br />

Profatex Sa<br />

Interselection – Paris<br />

organized by:<br />

Intersélection – Groupe<br />

Eurovet<br />

Première Vision – Paris<br />

(Textile Fabrics Fair)<br />

organised by:<br />

Première Vision<br />

Kid’s Fashion<br />

– Mode Enfantine<br />

Kids Fahion Fairs in Paris<br />

and Brussels<br />

organized by Kid’s Fashion<br />

Mode<br />

Enfantine SA/NV<br />

Salon du Pret à Porter<br />

Paris<br />

French association of Prêt<br />

à Porter<br />

WHO’S NEXT URBAN<br />

SHOW SA.<br />

37/39, rue de Neuilly – BP<br />

121<br />

F - 92582 Clichy Cedex<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4730 5494<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 4730 9450<br />

www.fatex.fr<br />

info@fatex.fr<br />

Rue de Neuilly<br />

F - 92113 Clichy Cedex<br />

Tel +33 – 1 – 4756 3232<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 4756 3299<br />

www.interselection.net<br />

interselection@la-federation.com<br />

Le Britannia – Batiment A20<br />

Bld. Eugène Deruelle<br />

F - 69432 Lyon Cedex 3<br />

Tel.: +33 – 4 – 7260 6500<br />

Fax: +33 – 4 – 7260 6509<br />

www.premierevision.fr<br />

info@premierevision.fr<br />

999 chée d’Alsemberg<br />

B - 1180 Brussels<br />

Tel.: +32 – 2 – 376 5747<br />

Fax: +32 – 2 – 332 0880<br />

www.kidsfashionfairs.com<br />

visitorskids@bff.be<br />

5, rue Caumartin<br />

F - 75009 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4494 7000<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 4494<br />

7002/7004<br />

www.pretparis.com<br />

info@pretparis.com<br />

23, rue du Mail<br />

F - 75002 Paris<br />

Tel.: +33 – 140 13 74 74<br />

Fax: +33 – 140 13 74 84<br />

www.whosnext.com<br />

info@whosnext.com<br />

9.3.2 Germany<br />

CPD<br />

Woman/Man incl. Global<br />

Fashion<br />

organised by: IGEDO<br />

Internationale Modemesse<br />

Kronen GmbH & Co.KG<br />

ISPO – Munich<br />

(Active Sportswear)<br />

organised by:<br />

Messe München GmbH<br />

Kind + Jugend – Cologne<br />

Bread And Butter<br />

Trade fair for selected brands<br />

in Berlin and Barcelona<br />

Bread & Butter GmbH Headquarter:<br />

Stockumer Kirchstr. 61<br />

D - 40474 Düsseldorf<br />

Tel.: +49 – 211 – 4396 – 01<br />

Fax: +49 – 211 – 4396 – 345<br />

www.igedo.com<br />

info@igedo.com<br />

Messegelände<br />

D - 81823 München<br />

Tel.: +49 – 89 – 949 – 11388<br />

Fax: +49 – 89 – 949 – 11389<br />

www.ispo.com<br />

ispo@messe-muenchen.de<br />

Messeplatz 1<br />

D - 50679 Köln<br />

Tel.: +49 – 221 – 821 – 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 221 – 821 – 2574<br />

www.koelnmesse.de<br />

info@koelnmesse.de<br />

Münzstrasse 13<br />

D - 10178 Berlin<br />

Service Hotline<br />

(Accreditation + Tickets):<br />

+49 – 30 – 2000 – 370<br />

Tel.: +49 – 30 – 400 – 44 – 0<br />

(Headquarter)<br />

Fax: +49 – 30 – 400 – 44 – 101<br />

www.breadandbutter.com<br />

info@breadandbutter.com<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 148


9.3.3 Italy<br />

Ideacomo – Cernobbio<br />

organised by:<br />

Ente Fieristico Ideacomo<br />

Modaprima – Milano<br />

organized by:<br />

EFIMA – Ente Fiere Italiane<br />

aglieria e Abbigliamento<br />

Pitti Bimbo – Florence<br />

organised by:<br />

Pitti Immagine srl<br />

Pitti Uomo – Florence<br />

organised by:<br />

Pitti Immagine srl<br />

9.3.4 Spain<br />

FIMI – Valencia<br />

organised by:<br />

Feria Valencia<br />

SIMM (Int. Fashion Week)<br />

– Madrid<br />

organised by:<br />

Parque Ferial Juan Carlos I<br />

149 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Via Regina, 40<br />

I - 22012 Cernobbio<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 31 – 513312<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 31 – 340022<br />

www.ideacomo.com<br />

ideacomo@ideacomo.com<br />

Viala Sarca 223<br />

I - 20126 Milano<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 – 661 631<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 2 – 6610 1638<br />

www.modaprima.it<br />

info@modaprima.it<br />

Via Faenza 111<br />

I - 50123 Florence<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 55 – 36931<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 55 – 3693200<br />

www.pittimmagine.com<br />

bimbo@bittimmagine.com<br />

Via Faenza 111<br />

I - 50123 Florence<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 55 – 36931<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 55 – 3693200<br />

www.pittimmagine.com<br />

uomo@bittimmagine.com<br />

Avenida de las Ferias<br />

E - 46035 Valencia<br />

Tel.: +34-963-861100<br />

Fax: +34-963-635111<br />

www.feriavalencia.com<br />

feriavalencia@feriavalencia.<br />

com<br />

Apdo. De Correros 67.067<br />

E - 28080 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-7225000<br />

Fax: +34-91-7225799<br />

www.simm.ifema.es<br />

simm@ifema.es<br />

9.3.5 United Kingdom<br />

MODA UK – Birmingham<br />

organised by:<br />

ITE Moda Ltd.<br />

UK Pure Womenswear<br />

London<br />

(all kinds of women’s wear<br />

and fashion accessories)<br />

organised by: Emap Retail<br />

Premier Kids Birmingham<br />

organised by:<br />

Emap Retail<br />

Tel.: +44-1484-846069<br />

Fax: +44-1484-846232<br />

www.moda-uk.co.uk<br />

info@moda-uk.co.uk<br />

33-39 Bowling Green Lane<br />

GB - London, EC1R 0DA<br />

Tel.: +44-20-7812-3700<br />

Fax: +44-20-7812-3710<br />

www.purewomenswear.co.uk<br />

info@emap.com<br />

33-39 Bowling Green Lane<br />

GB - London, EC1R 0DA<br />

Tel.: +44-20-7812-3700<br />

Fax: +44-20-7812-3710<br />

www.purewomenswear.co.uk<br />

info@emap.com<br />

Remark: Comprehensive information about all European and<br />

international fairs can be collected from the internet site: www.<br />

auma.de


9.4 European trade magazines.<br />

9.4.1 France<br />

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />

Journal Du Textile<br />

Edition Hennessen SA<br />

61, rue de Malte<br />

F - 75541 Paris Cedex 11<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4357 2189<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 4700 0835<br />

www.journaldutextile.com<br />

contact@journaldutextile.com<br />

9.4.2 Germany<br />

Weekly 18’101 Textile and<br />

clothing retail<br />

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />

Klar-Text<br />

Das Klar’sche Textilarchiv<br />

GmbH<br />

Thann 28<br />

D - 83098 Brannenburg<br />

Tel.: +49 – 8034 – 8686<br />

Fax: +49 – 8034 – 8001<br />

www.klartext.de<br />

info@klartext.de<br />

SAZ Sportartikel Zeitung<br />

SAZ Verlag GmbH<br />

Postfach 260246<br />

D - 80059 München<br />

Tel.: +49 – 89 – 2121 1090<br />

Fax: +49 – 89 – 2121 1077<br />

www.saz.de<br />

saz@saz.de<br />

Sportswear<br />

International<br />

Deutscher Fachverlag GmbH<br />

Mainzer Landstr. 251<br />

D – 60326 Frankfurt/Main<br />

Tel.: +49 – 69 – 7595 - 2662<br />

Fax: +49 – 69 – 7595 - 2660<br />

www.dfv.de – info@dfv.de<br />

Weekly on Mondays 2’500<br />

Special edition<br />

once per year –<br />

6’700<br />

Textile and<br />

specialized retail<br />

and industry –<br />

Retail and<br />

Clothing<br />

Addresses<br />

2 times/month 10’000 Trade, sports<br />

articles<br />

6 times/year 28’700 Trade, jeans and<br />

sportswear<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 150


9.4.2 Germany<br />

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />

TM Fashion Trend<br />

Magazine<br />

Branche & <strong>Business</strong><br />

Fachverlag GmbH & Co.KG<br />

Königsallee 70<br />

D - 40212 Düsseldorf<br />

Tel.: +49 – 211 – 8 3030<br />

Fax: +49 – 211 – 324862<br />

www.tm-fashion-portal.de<br />

info@textilmitteilungen.de<br />

TW Textilwirtschaft<br />

Deutscher Textilverlag GmbH<br />

Mainzer Landstr. 251<br />

D - 60326 Frankfurt<br />

Tel.: +49 – 69 – 7595 01<br />

Fax: +49 – 69 – 7595 1399<br />

www.Twnetwork.de<br />

info@TWnetwork.de<br />

9.4.3 Italy<br />

151 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Weekly 28’000 Textile and<br />

clothing trade<br />

Weekly 28’200 Textile and<br />

clothing trade<br />

and industry<br />

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />

Fashion<br />

Edizioni Ecomarket Spa<br />

Corso Venezia 26<br />

I - 20121 Milano<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 – 7600 7371<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 2 – 78 3012<br />

www.fashionmagazine.it<br />

redazione@fashionmagazine.it<br />

Modasport Vacanze<br />

Acalifa Srl<br />

Palazzina S. Rocco<br />

Via S. Rocco 17<br />

I - 20135 Milano<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 – 5831 5800<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 2 – 5831 6313<br />

www.infodataitaly.com<br />

esabbat@tin.it<br />

Donna Collezioni –<br />

Uomo Collezioni – Bambini<br />

Collezioni<br />

Zanfi.editori@mo.nettuno.it<br />

Weekly 18,000 Textile sector,<br />

sports fashion<br />

Every 3<br />

months<br />

46,000 Sport and<br />

Cacation Sports<br />

International<br />

4-6 times/year App. 50,000 Sports fashion,<br />

retail, industry,<br />

consumer


9.4.4 Spain<br />

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />

Textil Expres<br />

Aramo Editorial<br />

Muntaner 50, Atico 3a<br />

E - 08011 Barcelona<br />

Tel.: +34-93-453 7938<br />

Fax: +34-93-323 7926<br />

aramo@docupress.es<br />

La Moda<br />

Ediciones Tecnicas Doria SA<br />

Paseo de Gracia, 44-2<br />

E - 08007 Barcelona<br />

Tel.: +34-93-467 1212<br />

Fax: +34-93-488 3012<br />

www.miramedios.com<br />

info@data-red.com<br />

9.4.5 <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />

4 times/year 5’500 Industry, retail<br />

Monthly 10’000 Textile industry<br />

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />

Mittex - SVT Zürich<br />

Schweizerische Vereinigung<br />

von Textilfachleuten SVT<br />

c/o Gertsch Consulting<br />

Postfach 1107<br />

CH-4800 Zofingen<br />

Tel.: +41 – 62 – 751 26 39<br />

Fax: +41 – 62 – 751 26 37<br />

www.mittex.ch<br />

svt@mittex.ch<br />

Schweizer Sport Und<br />

Mode<br />

MS Dienstleistungen AG<br />

Örgelackerstrasse 4<br />

CH-8707 Uetikon am See<br />

Tel.: +41 – 44 – 920 79 40<br />

Fax: +41 – 44 – 920 79 41<br />

www.sportbiz.ch<br />

info@sportbiz.ch<br />

6 times/year 3’000 Professional<br />

magazine for<br />

the textile and<br />

knitting industry<br />

Once a month 3’100 Sports and<br />

leisure wear<br />

industry<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 152


9.4.5 <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />

Textil-Revue<br />

Fürstenlandstr. 122<br />

CH - 9001 St. Gallen<br />

Tel.: +41 – 71 – 272 77 77<br />

Fax: +41 – 71 – 272 74 49<br />

www.textil-revue.ch<br />

redaction@textil-revue.ch<br />

9.4.6 United Kingdom<br />

153 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Once a month 7’500 Textile and<br />

clothing industry<br />

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />

CWB Childrens Wear Buyer<br />

Magazine<br />

National Children’s Wear<br />

Association<br />

5 Portland Place<br />

GB-London W 1B 1 PW<br />

Tel.: +44 – 20 – 7631 5445<br />

Fax: +44 – 20 – 7631 – 3443<br />

www.ncwa.co.uk<br />

enquiries@ncwa.co.uk<br />

Drapers<br />

DR The fashion <strong>Business</strong><br />

EMAP <strong>Business</strong> Publishing<br />

Angel House<br />

338-346 Goswell Rd.<br />

GB - London EC1V 7QP<br />

Tel.: +44 – 20 – 7520 1500<br />

Fax: +44 – 20 – 7520 1501<br />

www.drapersonline.com<br />

FW<br />

EMAP Fashion<br />

Angel House<br />

338-346 Goswell Rd.<br />

GB - London EC1V 7QP<br />

Tel.: +44 – 20 – 7520 1500<br />

Fax: +44 – 20 – 7520 1501<br />

www.emap.co.uk<br />

information@emap.com<br />

4 times/year 4’500 Childrens’ wear,<br />

retail<br />

Weekly 20’000 No. 1 of textile<br />

publications<br />

in GB<br />

Weekly 10’000 Retail, industry


9.4.6 United Kingdom<br />

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />

Menswear<br />

EMAP Fashion<br />

Angel House<br />

338-346 Goswell Rd.<br />

GB - London EC1V 7QP<br />

Tel.: +44 – 20 – 7520 1500<br />

Fax: +44 – 20 – 7520 1501<br />

www.emap.co.uk<br />

clairer@fashion.emap.co.uk<br />

2 times/month 11’000 Retail<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 154


9.5 Trade promotion organisations<br />

in Europe.<br />

CBI – Centrum Tot Bevordering<br />

Van De Import Uit<br />

Ontwikkelingslanden<br />

Centre for the Promotion<br />

of Imports from Developing<br />

Countries<br />

DIPO<br />

Danish Import Promotion<br />

Office Boersen<br />

GTZ - Gesellschaft für<br />

technische Zusammenarbeit<br />

German Organisation for<br />

Technical Cooperation<br />

International Trade Cenre<br />

Unctad/Wto (ITC)<br />

NORAD<br />

Norwegian Agency for<br />

Development<br />

Cooperation<br />

SIDA<br />

Swedish International<br />

Development<br />

Cooperation Agency<br />

155 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

WTC-Beurs Building,<br />

Beursplein 37<br />

P.O.Box 30009<br />

NL - 3001 DA Rotterdam<br />

Tel.: +31 – 10 – 2013 434<br />

Fax: +31 – 10 – 4114 081<br />

www.cbi.nl, cbi@cbi.nl<br />

Børsen, Slotsholmsgade,<br />

DK - 1217 Copenhagen K<br />

Tel.: +45 3374 6000<br />

Fax: +45 3374 6080<br />

www.dipo.eu<br />

dipp@danskerhverv.com<br />

Dag-Hammerskjöld-Weg<br />

1-5<br />

D - 65726 Eschborn<br />

Tel: +49 – 6196 – 79 0<br />

Fax: +49 – 6196 – 79 1115<br />

www.gtz.de<br />

info@gtz.de<br />

Palais des Nations<br />

CH - 1211 Geneva 10<br />

Tel : +41 – 22 – 730 0111<br />

Fax : +41 – 22 – 733 4439<br />

www.intracen.org<br />

itcreg@intracen.org<br />

Ruselokkveien 26<br />

Postbox 8034<br />

N - 0030 Oslo<br />

Tel.: +47 – 22 – 24 20 30<br />

Fax: +47 – 22 – 24 20 31<br />

www.norad.no<br />

firmapost@norad.no<br />

Sweavagen 20<br />

Postbox 3144<br />

S - 10525 Stockholm<br />

Tel.: +46 – 8 – 698 5000<br />

Fax: +46 – 8 – 208864<br />

www.sida.se<br />

info@sida.se<br />

9.6 Important addresses for<br />

environmental and social issues.<br />

CBI – Centrum Tot<br />

Bevordering Van De<br />

Import Uit Ontwikkelingslanden<br />

Centre for the Promotion<br />

of Imports from Developing<br />

Countries<br />

Commission<br />

Of The European<br />

Communities<br />

Forschungsinstitut<br />

Hohenstein<br />

(measurement tables<br />

and ecological issues)<br />

Institut Fresenius<br />

Gruppe<br />

(product testing)<br />

WTC-Beurs Building, Beursplein<br />

37<br />

P.O.Box 30009<br />

NL - 3001 DA Rotterdam<br />

Tel.: +31 – 10 – 2013 434<br />

Fax: +31 – 10 – 4114 081<br />

www.cbi.nl, cbi@cbi.nl<br />

www.cbi-accessguide<br />

(internet guide to European wide<br />

ecological questions)<br />

Rue de la Loi 200<br />

B - 1049 Brussels<br />

Tel.: +32 – 2 – 2990344<br />

Fax: +32 – 2 – 2990313<br />

www.europa.eu<br />

Schloß Hohenstein<br />

D - 74357 Bönningheim<br />

Tel.: +49 – 7143 – 2710<br />

Fax: +49 – 7143 – 27151<br />

www.hohenstein.de<br />

info@hohenstein.de<br />

Im Maisel 14<br />

D - 65232 Taunusstein-Neuhof<br />

Tel.: +49 – 6128 – 7440<br />

www.fresenius.com<br />

info@fresenius.com


9.6.1 Contact points for the Oeko-ex 100 hallmark<br />

Deutsche Zertifizierungsstelle<br />

Öko-Tex<br />

IFTH Lyon<br />

Institut Français du Textile et<br />

de l’Habillement<br />

Centro Tessile Cotoniero E<br />

Abbigliamento S.p.A.<br />

AITEX Instituto Tecnológico<br />

Textil<br />

Schloß Hohenstein<br />

D - 74357 Bönningheim<br />

Tel.: +49 – 7143 – 2710<br />

Fax: +49 – 7143 – 27151<br />

www.oeko-tex.com<br />

info@oeko-tex.com<br />

Avenue Guy de Collongue<br />

69134 Ecully Cédex<br />

France<br />

Tel.: +33 472 86 1600<br />

Fax: +33 478 43 3966<br />

www.ifth.org<br />

Piazza Sant’ Anna 2<br />

21052 Busto Arsizio VA<br />

Italy<br />

Tel.: +39 0331 696711<br />

Fax: +39 0331 680056<br />

www.centrocot.it<br />

Plaza Emilio Sala 1<br />

03801 Alcoy<br />

Spain<br />

Tel.: +34 96 554 22 00<br />

Fax: +34 96 554 34 94<br />

www.aitex.es<br />

Shirley Technologies Ltd Unit 12, Westpoint Enterprise<br />

Park<br />

Clarence Avenue<br />

Trafford Park<br />

M17 1QS Manchester<br />

Tel.: +44 161 869 1610<br />

Fax: +44 161 872 64692<br />

www.shirleytech.co.uk<br />

Testex<br />

Swiss Institute for Textile<br />

Testing – International<br />

Secretary of the Oeko-Tex<br />

Association<br />

Gotthardstr. 61<br />

CH - 8027 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 – 1 – 206 42 42<br />

Fax: +41 – 1 – 206 42 30<br />

www.oeko-tex.com<br />

info@oeko-tex.com<br />

9.7 Sources of information.<br />

9.7.1. Europe<br />

AEDT<br />

(European Association of<br />

National Organisations of<br />

Retailers)<br />

EUROSTAT<br />

(Statistical office of the<br />

European Union)<br />

EURATEX<br />

(European Apparel and<br />

Textile Organisation)<br />

9.7.2 France<br />

Centre Textile de Conjoncture<br />

et d’Observation<br />

Economique (CTCOE)<br />

Centre for the Observation<br />

of Economic Development<br />

9.7.3 Germany<br />

Bfai – Bundesagentur für<br />

Aussenwirtschaft<br />

(foreign trade information<br />

Germany and EU)<br />

Bundesamt für Wirtschaft<br />

(BAW)<br />

(German Economic Office)<br />

9-13/4th Avenue des Nerviens<br />

B - 1040 Bruxelles<br />

Tel.: +32 – 2 – 230 5296<br />

Fax: +32 – 2 – 230 2569<br />

www.aedt.org<br />

info@aedt.org<br />

Bâtiment Joseph Bech<br />

5, rue Alphonse Weicker<br />

L - 2721 Luxembourg<br />

europa.eu.int/comm/eurostat<br />

24, rue Montoyer<br />

B - 1000 Bruxelles<br />

Tel.: +32 – 2 – 285 4892<br />

Fax: +32 – 2 – 230 6054<br />

www.euratex.org<br />

info@euratex.org<br />

37-39, rue de Neuilly BP<br />

249<br />

F - 92113 Clichy<br />

Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4756 3030<br />

Fax: +33 – 1 – 4756 3016<br />

ifm@ifm-paris.org<br />

Agrippastr. 87-93<br />

D - 50445 Cologne<br />

Tel.: +49 – 221 – 205 7000<br />

Fax: +49 – 221 – 205 7212<br />

www.bfai.de<br />

webkontakt@bfai.de<br />

Frankfurter Str. 29 – 31<br />

D - 65760 Eschborn<br />

Tel.: +49 – 6196 – 908-0<br />

Fax: +49 – 6196 – 908-800<br />

www.bafa.de<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 156


9.7.3 Germany<br />

Statistisches Bundesamt<br />

(German Statistical Office)<br />

9.7.4 Italy<br />

Instituto Nazionale Di<br />

Statistica (ISTAT)<br />

(National Statistical Office)<br />

Market Study Clothing<br />

Sector Databank<br />

Sede Centrale<br />

9.7.5 Spain<br />

Centro de Información<br />

Textil y de la Confeccion<br />

(CITYC)<br />

Económico y Social de<br />

España<br />

(Economic and Social Council<br />

of Spain)<br />

(Dirección de Relaciones<br />

Institucionales y Publicaciones)<br />

Instituto Nacional de<br />

Estadística<br />

(National Statistical Office)<br />

157 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />

Gustav Streesemann Ring<br />

11<br />

D - 65189 Wiesbaden<br />

Tel.: +49 – 611 – 752405<br />

Fax: +49 – 611 – 753330<br />

www.destatis.de<br />

info@destatis.de<br />

Via Cesare Balbo, 16<br />

I - 00100 Roma<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 6-46 73 1<br />

www.istat.it<br />

info@istat.it<br />

Via dei Piatti, 11<br />

I - 20123 Milano<br />

Tel.: +39 (0) – 2-80 95 56<br />

Fax: +39 (0) – 2-80 56 495<br />

www.databank.it<br />

info@databank.it<br />

C./Rosellon, 216-5 E<br />

E - 08008 Barcelona<br />

Tel.: +34-93-4876 949<br />

Fax: +34-93-4872 362<br />

www.cityc.es<br />

C/Huertas 73<br />

E - 28014 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-429 0018<br />

Fax: +34-91-429 4257<br />

www.ces.es<br />

Paseo de la Castellana 183<br />

E - 28071 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-583 9100<br />

Fax: +34-91-5839158<br />

www.ine.es<br />

Secretaria General de<br />

Commercio Exterior<br />

(Secretary for External<br />

Commercial Affairs)<br />

9.7.6 <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />

Sartex<br />

(Swiss Association for Textile<br />

Marking)<br />

Swiss Association For<br />

Standardization (SNV)<br />

Testex – Schweizer Textilprüfinstitut<br />

(Swiss Institute for Textile<br />

Testing)<br />

TMC - Textil Und Mode<br />

Center Zürich<br />

Fashion Center<br />

P de la Castellana 14-16<br />

E - 28046 Madrid<br />

Tel.: +34-91-349 6100<br />

Fax: +34-91-431 6128<br />

www.icex.es<br />

Beethovenstr. 20<br />

CH - 8022 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 – 44 – 289 79 49<br />

Fax: +41 – 44 – 289 79 38<br />

www.sartex.ch<br />

Bürglistr. 29<br />

CH - 8400 Winterthur<br />

Tel.: +41-52-224 54 54<br />

Fax: +41-52-224 54 74<br />

www.snv.ch<br />

info@snv.ch<br />

Gotthardstr. 61<br />

CH - 8027 Zürich<br />

Tel.: +41 – 44- 206 42 42<br />

Fax: +41 – 44 – 206 42 30<br />

www.testex.ch<br />

contact@testex.ch<br />

Thurgauerstrasse 117<br />

CH - 8152 Glattbrugg<br />

Tel.: +41-43-211 59 20<br />

Fax: +41-43-211 59 29<br />

www.tmc.ch<br />

contact@tmc.ch


9.7.7 United Kingdom<br />

EIU - Economist Intelligence<br />

Unit<br />

Taylor Nelson Sofres plc.<br />

Market Research<br />

Textile Outlook<br />

International<br />

26 Red Lion Square<br />

London WC1R 4HQ<br />

United Kingdom<br />

Tel: + 44 - 20 7576 8181<br />

Fax: + 44 - 20 7576 8476<br />

www.eiu.com<br />

london@eiu.com<br />

222 Grays Inn Road,<br />

London WC1X 8HB<br />

www.tnsofres.com<br />

research@tnsofres.com<br />

Alderley House<br />

Alderley Road<br />

Wilmslow SK9 1AT<br />

United Kingdom<br />

Tel.: +44 – 1625 – 536136<br />

Fax: +44 – 1625 – 536137<br />

www.textilesintelligence.com<br />

subscriptions@textilesintelligence.com<br />

<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 158


Osec<br />

Swiss Import Promotion Programme<br />

Stampfenbachstrasse 85<br />

P.O. Box 2407<br />

CH-8021 Zurich<br />

Phone +41 44 365 51 51<br />

Fax +41 44 365 52 02<br />

sippo@osec.ch<br />

Copyright © Osec April 2010. All rights reserved.<br />

Our hotline: +41 44 365 53 91<br />

www.sippo.ch

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