Outerwear. - Business Location Switzerland
Outerwear. - Business Location Switzerland
Outerwear. - Business Location Switzerland
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<strong>Outerwear</strong>.<br />
Overview and Marketing Guide on <strong>Switzerland</strong> and the Major Markets in the European Union.<br />
sippo.ch
SIPPO Swiss Import Promotion Programme.<br />
2<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
SIPPO is a mandate from the State Secretariat for Economic<br />
Affairs of <strong>Switzerland</strong> (SECO), carried out by Osec.<br />
The programme supports small and medium-sized enterprises<br />
(SMEs) from emerging markets and markets in transition to access<br />
the Swiss and European markets.<br />
In addition to this, SIPPO helps Swiss and European importers<br />
to find suitable partners in emerging countries and countries in<br />
transition.<br />
The programme has five main goals:<br />
• To inform the Swiss and European import economy about new<br />
market sources<br />
• To strengthen trade institutions and business sector<br />
associations in the trade promotion process<br />
• To increase the competitiveness of SMEs in selected partner<br />
countries<br />
• To develop the manufacturing and exporting skills of SMEs in<br />
selected partner countries<br />
• To establish qualified trade contacts between SMEs from<br />
emerging markets and markets in transition and the Swiss and<br />
European import economy<br />
For further information please contact:<br />
Osec<br />
Swiss Import Promotion Programme<br />
Stampfenbachstrasse 85<br />
P.O. Box 2407<br />
CH-8021 Zürich<br />
Phone +41 44 365 51 51<br />
Fax +41 44 365 52 02<br />
www.sippo.ch<br />
sippo@osec.ch
The GHERZI Group (Founded in 1929).<br />
Gherzi is a leading industrial consulting company offering<br />
integrated, independent services in management, financial,<br />
manufacturing, supply chain management, logistics and<br />
engineering consultancy with more than 400 professionals.<br />
GHERZI has its head office in Zürich <strong>Switzerland</strong>, disposes on<br />
own offices in Germany, Italy, Turkey, Egypt and India and has<br />
developed an international presence with partner offices in<br />
France, UK, Mexico, Brazil, Peru, Chile, Argentina, Morocco,<br />
Nigeria, Pakistan, Vietnam and China.<br />
GHERZI has a reputation for project evaluation, planning and<br />
implementation with strengths in:<br />
1. Integrated Services.<br />
Provide a complete, integrated package from production to<br />
distribution, including marketing and feasibility studies with all cost<br />
and financial aspects.<br />
Our solutions are designed to meet clients’ specific needs such as<br />
Operations improvements in terms of<br />
• Productivity & efficiency levels<br />
• Cost reduction<br />
• Production planning & quality assurance<br />
• Organizing & working methods<br />
• Turn around of companies<br />
Techno - economic evaluations<br />
• Of investment projects and of existing business operations<br />
• Profitability, ROI & IRR<br />
• Financial projections & sensitivity analyses<br />
Project design<br />
• Master plans<br />
• Implementation<br />
• Re – engineering of existing businesses<br />
Mergers and Acquisitions<br />
Market analyses, competition scenarios and product feasibility<br />
studies<br />
Company Strategies<br />
Production Planning Systems & EDP<br />
Supply Chain Management<br />
2. International Exposure and<br />
Project Experience.<br />
We have undertaken more than 7’500 assignments worldwide<br />
in more than 70 countries. Our Clients include private & listed<br />
companies, international organizations, government agencies and<br />
multinational banks. We have accumulated comprehensive project<br />
experience in the fields of textiles, garments, industrial-, infrastructure-<br />
and hospitality-projects, supply chain management and<br />
distribution.<br />
3. Independent.<br />
GHERZI is an independent, private company offering neutral and<br />
unprejudiced consulting services without links to hard- or software<br />
suppliers. We act in the interest of our clients and meet the<br />
professional standards of the Swiss Association of Management<br />
Consultants (ASCO) and the Swiss Association of Engineers and<br />
Architects (SIA).<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 3
Table of content.<br />
1 Introduction.<br />
1.1 Background and methodology of the market survey ... 7<br />
1.2 Product groups analysed ............................................. 7<br />
1.3 Market survey of the 12-EU new member countries .... 8<br />
1.4 Clothing consumption .................................................. 9<br />
1.5 Marketing and distribution .......................................... 11<br />
2 France.<br />
2.1 General economic situation ....................................... 12<br />
2.2 The market for outerwear .......................................... 12<br />
2.2.1 Market size ................................................................ 12<br />
2.2.2 Market characteristics ................................................ 12<br />
2.2.3 Demographic characteristics ..................................... 13<br />
2.2.4 Retail sales by product category ............................... 14<br />
2.2.5 Consumer behaviour ................................................. 15<br />
2.2.6 Price development of clothing .................................... 15<br />
2.3 Imports ....................................................................... 16<br />
2.3.1 Total imports .............................................................. 16<br />
2.3.2 Outward processing trade (OPT) ............................... 19<br />
2.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear .................................. 19<br />
2.4 Trade structure ........................................................... 21<br />
2.4.1 Developments in the retail trade ................................ 21<br />
2.4.2 Leading retailers ........................................................ 21<br />
2.4.3 Distribution channels ................................................. 23<br />
2.5 French fashion trade fairs .......................................... 25<br />
2.6 List of major buyers of women’s,<br />
4<br />
men’s and children's wear in France .......................... 26<br />
3 Germany.<br />
3.1 General economic situation ....................................... 31<br />
3.2 The market for outerwear .......................................... 31<br />
3.2.1 Market size ................................................................ 31<br />
3.2.2 Market characteristics ................................................ 31<br />
3.2.3 Demographic characteristics ..................................... 32<br />
3.2.4 Retail sales by product category ............................... 33<br />
3.2.5 Consumer behaviour ................................................. 33<br />
3.2.6 Price developments of clothing .................................. 35<br />
3.3 Imports ....................................................................... 35<br />
3.3.1 Total imports .............................................................. 35<br />
3.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT) .............................. 38<br />
3.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear .................................. 38<br />
3.4 Trade structure ........................................................... 40<br />
3.4.1 Developments in the retail trade ................................ 40<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
3.4.2 Leading retailers ........................................................ 43<br />
3.4.3 Distribution channels ................................................. 44<br />
3.5 German fashion trade fairs ........................................ 46<br />
3.6 List of major buyers in Germany ................................ 47<br />
4 Italy.<br />
4.1 General economic situation ....................................... 53<br />
4.2 The market for outerwear .......................................... 53<br />
4.2.1 Market size ................................................................ 53<br />
4.2.2 Market characteristics ................................................ 53<br />
4.2.3 Demographic characteristics ..................................... 53<br />
4.2.4 Retail sales by product category ............................... 54<br />
4.2.5 Consumer behaviour ................................................. 55<br />
4.2.6 Price developments of clothing .................................. 57<br />
4.3 Imports ....................................................................... 57<br />
4.3.1 Total imports .............................................................. 57<br />
4.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT) .............................. 60<br />
4.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear .................................. 61<br />
4.4 Trade structure ........................................................... 62<br />
4.4.1 Developments in retail trade ...................................... 62<br />
4.4.2 Leading retailers ........................................................ 63<br />
4.4.3 Distribution channels ................................................. 64<br />
4.5 Italian fashion trade fairs ............................................ 66<br />
4.6 List of major buyers in Italy ........................................ 67<br />
5 Spain.<br />
5.1 General economic situation ....................................... 71<br />
5.2 The market for outerwear .......................................... 71<br />
5.2.1 Market size ................................................................ 71<br />
5.2.2 Market characteristics ................................................ 72<br />
5.2.3 Demographic characteristics ..................................... 72<br />
5.2.4 Retail sales by product category and gender ............ 73<br />
5.2.5 Consumer behaviour ................................................. 74<br />
5.2.6 Price development of clothing .................................... 74<br />
5.3 Imports ....................................................................... 75<br />
5.3.1 Total imports .............................................................. 75<br />
5.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT) .............................. 78<br />
5.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear .................................. 79<br />
5.4 Trade structure ........................................................... 80<br />
5.4.1 Developments in the retail trade ................................ 80<br />
5.4.2 Leading retailers ........................................................ 81<br />
5.4.3 Distribution channels ................................................. 83<br />
5.5 Spanish fashion trade fairs ........................................ 85<br />
5.6 List of major buyers in Spain ..................................... 86
6 <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />
6.1 General economic situation ....................................... 89<br />
6.2 The market for outerwear .......................................... 89<br />
6.2.1 Market size ................................................................ 89<br />
6.2.2 Market characteristics ................................................ 90<br />
6.2.3 Demographic characteristics ..................................... 90<br />
6.2.4 Retail sales by categories .......................................... 91<br />
6.2.5 Consumer behaviour ................................................. 93<br />
6.2.6 Price development of clothing .................................... 94<br />
6.3 Imports ....................................................................... 95<br />
6.3.1 Total imports .............................................................. 95<br />
6.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT) .............................. 95<br />
6.3.3 Largest suppliers ....................................................... 95<br />
6.4 Trade structure ........................................................... 96<br />
6.4.1 Developments in the retail trade ................................ 96<br />
6.4.2 Leading retailers ........................................................ 97<br />
6.4.3 Distribution channels ................................................. 98<br />
6.5 Swiss fashion trade fairs .......................................... 100<br />
6.6 List of major buyers in <strong>Switzerland</strong> .......................... 101<br />
7 United Kingdom.<br />
7.1 General economic situation ..................................... 107<br />
7.2 The market for outerwear ........................................ 107<br />
7.2.1 Market size .............................................................. 107<br />
7.2.2 Market characteristics .............................................. 107<br />
7.2.3 Demographic characteristics ................................... 108<br />
7.2.4 Retail sales by product category ............................. 108<br />
7.2.5 Consumer behaviour ............................................... 109<br />
7.2.6 Price development of clothing .................................. 111<br />
7.3 Imports ..................................................................... 214<br />
7.3.1 Outward Processing Trade (OPT) ............................ 214<br />
7.3.2 Largest suppliers of outerwear ................................ 214<br />
7.4 Trade structure ......................................................... 116<br />
7.4.1 Developments in the retail trade .............................. 116<br />
7.4.2 Leading retailers ...................................................... 117<br />
7.4.3 Distribution channels ............................................... 118<br />
7.5 UK fashion trade fairs .............................................. 121<br />
7.6 List of major buyers in UK ........................................ 122<br />
8 Doing business in <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />
and the EU.<br />
8.1 Market access.......................................................... 126<br />
8.1.1 Quality and standards in <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />
and the EU ............................................................... 126<br />
8.1.2 Packaging, size marking and labelling ..................... 126<br />
8.1.3 Trade related environmental and social issues ........ 135<br />
8.1.4 Present trade regulations......................................... 139<br />
8.1.5 Implications after the elimination<br />
of the textile quotas .................................................. 142<br />
9 Appendix.<br />
9.1 Associations of trade agents,<br />
wholesalers organisations and retail organisations<br />
in the countries analysed ......................................... 143<br />
9.1.1 Europe ..................................................................... 143<br />
9.1.2 France ...................................................................... 143<br />
9.1.3 Germany .................................................................. 143<br />
9.1.4 Italy .......................................................................... 144<br />
9.1.5 Spain ....................................................................... 144<br />
9.1.6 <strong>Switzerland</strong> .............................................................. 145<br />
9.1.7 United Kingdom ....................................................... 145<br />
9.2 Industry federations in <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />
and EU-countries ..................................................... 146<br />
9.2.1 France ...................................................................... 146<br />
9.2.2 Germany .................................................................. 146<br />
9.2.3 Italy .......................................................................... 146<br />
9.2.4 Spain ....................................................................... 146<br />
9.2.5 <strong>Switzerland</strong> .............................................................. 146<br />
9.2.6 United Kingdom ....................................................... 147<br />
9.3 Major European trade fairs ...................................... 148<br />
9.3.1 France ...................................................................... 148<br />
9.3.2 Germany .................................................................. 148<br />
9.3.3 Italy .......................................................................... 149<br />
9.3.4 Spain ....................................................................... 149<br />
9.3.5 United Kingdom ....................................................... 149<br />
9.4 European trade magazines...................................... 150<br />
9.4.1 France ...................................................................... 150<br />
9.4.2 Germany .................................................................. 150<br />
9.4.3 Italy .......................................................................... 151<br />
9.4.4 Spain ....................................................................... 152<br />
9.4.5 <strong>Switzerland</strong> .............................................................. 152<br />
9.4.6 United Kingdom ....................................................... 153<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 5
9.5 Trade promotion organisations in Europe ................ 155<br />
9.6 Important addresses for environmental<br />
6<br />
and social issues ..................................................... 155<br />
9.6.1 Contact points for the Oeko-ex 100 hallmark ........... 156<br />
9.7 Sources of information ............................................. 156<br />
9.7.1 Europe ..................................................................... 156<br />
9.7.2 France ...................................................................... 156<br />
9.7.3 Germany .................................................................. 156<br />
9.7.4 Italy .......................................................................... 157<br />
9.7.5 Spain ....................................................................... 157<br />
9.7.6 <strong>Switzerland</strong> .............................................................. 157<br />
9.7.7 United Kingdom ....................................................... 158<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010
1. Introduction.<br />
1.1 Background and methodology<br />
of the market survey.<br />
This survey is designed for clothing manufacturers from foreign<br />
countries wishing to access the European market. The main<br />
objective of this compendium about <strong>Switzerland</strong> and the five major<br />
EU clothing markets is to provide first hand market information<br />
about the respective target markets for the exporter from abroad.<br />
Secondly, a comprehensive list of addresses helps to gain more<br />
detailed information about the target market and to establish first<br />
contacts.<br />
The handbook includes facts and key data about consumption,<br />
imports, trade structure, role of trade fairs and price developments<br />
in the target markets. The study is completed by a detailed list<br />
of useful addresses at European level about trade promotion<br />
organisations, trade press, clothing fairs, industry federations,<br />
centres for ecological issues etc. as well as a detailed list of<br />
potential distribution partners for each of the six countries<br />
analysed. Furthermore, statistical market information about trade<br />
structure as well as prices and margins are provided.<br />
The countries selected for the survey are <strong>Switzerland</strong>, Germany,<br />
France, Italy, Great Britain and Spain. The information collected<br />
for this study is the latest available and should be used by the<br />
exporter as a basis for further individual market research to fully<br />
design the individual market entry strategy and to establish first<br />
contacts.<br />
The main sources of information for this study were evaluation<br />
of press material, research on internet, market reports, Eurostat,<br />
information from other trade promotion organisations, Chambers<br />
of Commerce, importers and / or textile associations, a.o.m. The<br />
sources are mentioned in the respective chapters. All contact<br />
addresses listed in the Appendices have been checked and<br />
updated, additional information about the clothing retailers and<br />
other potential partners with products, number of outlets, etc. is<br />
given for a more specific use of the contacts.<br />
1.2 Product groups analysed.<br />
This market survey covers knitted and woven outerwear and<br />
sportswear for men, women and children. It must be considered<br />
that in the official statistics no difference is made between adults<br />
and children, or in end use, such as conventional, casual or leisure<br />
clothing. In the analysis of the clothing imports, the differentiation<br />
between genders has been made as far as possible.<br />
Underwear, nightwear, hosiery, swimwear, work wear as well as<br />
clothing accessories and home textiles have not been covered.<br />
Within the EU statistical system products are specified by the<br />
Harmonized Commodity Description and Coding System (HS).<br />
These numbers clearly identify a specific product. The product<br />
categories covered by this study are listed in the following table.<br />
Table 1: List of used HS codes<br />
HS Code Category description<br />
61 Articles of apparel & clothing accessories<br />
- knitted or crocheted<br />
61.01 Men’s or boys’ overcoats etc - knitted or crocheted<br />
61.02 Women’s or girls’ overcoats etc<br />
- knitted or crocheted<br />
61.03 Men’s or boys’ suits, ensembles etc<br />
- knitted or crocheted<br />
61.04 Women’s or girls’ suits, ensembles etc<br />
- knitted or crocheted<br />
61.05 Men’s or boys’ shirts - knitted or crocheted<br />
61.06 Women’s or girls’ blouses - knitted or crocheted<br />
61.09 T-shirts, singlets, tank tops etc - knitted or crocheted<br />
61.10 Sweaters, pullovers, vests etc - knitted or crocheted<br />
61.11 Babies’ garments & accessories<br />
- knitted or crocheted<br />
61.12 Track suits, ski-suits & swimwear<br />
- knitted or crocheted<br />
61.13 Garments, knitted etc, coated etc rubber, plastic etc<br />
61.14 Other garments - knitted or crocheted<br />
61.16 Gloves, mittens and mitts, knitted or crocheted<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 7
8<br />
HS Code Category description<br />
61.17 Other made-up clothing accessories,<br />
knitted or crocheted<br />
62 Articles of apparel & clothing accessories - not<br />
knitted or crocheted<br />
61 Articles of apparel & clothing accessories<br />
- knitted or crocheted<br />
61.01 Men’s or boys’ overcoats etc - knitted or crocheted<br />
61.02 Women’s or girls’ overcoats etc - knitted or crocheted<br />
61.03 Men’s or boys’ suits, ensembles etc<br />
- knitted or crocheted<br />
61.04 Women’s or girls’ suits, ensembles etc<br />
- knitted or crocheted<br />
61.05 Men’s or boys’ shirts - knitted or crocheted<br />
61.06 Women’s or girls’ blouses - knitted or crocheted<br />
61.09 T-shirts, singlets, tank tops etc - knitted or crocheted<br />
61.10 Sweaters, pullovers, vests etc - knitted or crocheted<br />
61.11 Babies’ garments & accessories - knitted or crocheted<br />
61.12 Track suits, ski-suits & swimwear<br />
- knitted or crocheted<br />
61.13 Garments, knitted etc, coated etc rubber, plastic etc<br />
61.14 Other garments - knitted or crocheted<br />
61.16 Gloves, mittens and mitts, knitted or crocheted<br />
61.17 Other made-up clothing accessories,<br />
knitted or crocheted<br />
62 Articles of apparel & clothing accessories - not<br />
knitted or crocheted<br />
62.01 Men’s or boys’ overcoats, cloaks etc<br />
- not knitted or crocheted<br />
62.02 Women’s or girls’ overcoats etc - not knitted or<br />
crocheted<br />
62.03 Men’s or boys’ suits, ensembles etc<br />
- not knitted or crocheted<br />
62.04 Women’s or girls’ suits, ensembles etc<br />
- not knitted or crocheted<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
HS Code Category description<br />
62.06 Women’s or girls’ blouses - not knitted or crocheted<br />
62.09 Babies’ garments & accessories<br />
- not knitted or crocheted<br />
62.10 Garments, of felt etc, or fabric impregnated etc<br />
62.11 Track suits, ski-suits & swimwear<br />
- not knitted or crocheted<br />
62.14 Shawls, scarves, mufflers, mantillas,<br />
veils and the like<br />
62.15 Ties, bow ties and cravats<br />
62.16 Gloves, mittens and mitts<br />
62.17 Other made-up clothing accessories and parts of<br />
garments<br />
Source: Foreign Trade online<br />
A more detailed description of the product groups analysed can<br />
be taken from the import statistics in all countries analysed.<br />
<strong>Switzerland</strong> has a national coding system for the registration of<br />
imports and exports, which nevertheless is based on the HS code<br />
system of the European Union. Thus, the HS codes referred to in<br />
this study are also applicable for the Swiss market.<br />
1.3 Market survey of the 12-EU new member countries<br />
The European Union (EU), which had consisted of 15 member<br />
states since 1st of January 1995, was enlarged by ten new joining<br />
countries in 2004 (Czech Republic, Cyprus, Estonia, Hungry, Latvia,<br />
Lithuania, Malta, Poland, Slovakia, Slovenia) and two further new<br />
joining countries in 2007 (Bulgaria, Romania). Negotiations are in<br />
progress with a number of other candidate member states such as<br />
Croatia, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia and Turkey.
Table 2: Population and GDP of EU-12 countries (data for 2008)<br />
Countries<br />
Population<br />
million<br />
Age 0-14 % Age 15-64 % GDP € billion<br />
New (12) EU countries 104.2 15 70.5 977.7 9.38<br />
Cyprus 1.1 17.4 72.8 14.5 13.63<br />
Czech Republic 10.2 13.8 71.2 147.9 14.48<br />
Estonia 1.3 14.9 67.5 15.8 12.07<br />
Hungary 9.9 15.2 69.3 105.7 10.64<br />
Latvia 2.2 13.4 69.7 23.1 10.28<br />
Lithuania 3.6 14.5 69.5 32.4 9.07<br />
Malta 0.4 16.4 69.7 5.1 12.62<br />
Poland 38.1 15.2 71.4 360.1 9.35<br />
Slovakia 5.5 16.1 71.7 64.9 11.90<br />
Slovenia 2.0 13.6 70.1 37.3 18.59<br />
Bulgaria 7.3 13.8 68.6 34.1 4.70<br />
Romania 22.2 15.6 69.7 136.7 6.15<br />
Source: US Census Bureau, Worldbank, Oanda<br />
1.4 Clothing consumption<br />
The EU market for outerwear amounted to € 260 billion in 2007.<br />
Consumption of outerwear grew 8.1% during the whole period<br />
2003-2007, of which 2.6% in 2006-2007.<br />
Germany is still the most important country in clothing consumption<br />
in the EU, but the difference between Germany and the United<br />
Kingdom (UK) has become smaller again. Five countries (Germany,<br />
UK, Italy, France and Spain) account for 75% of EU outerwear<br />
consumption.<br />
GDP per capita 2008 ‘000<br />
Euro<br />
Consumers in the UK and Austria are the largest spenders on<br />
outerwear in the EU, while per capita consumption in the review<br />
period in the new EU member states was far below the EU average<br />
of € 528. Experts forecast that clothing expenditure in several<br />
of the new EU member states will continue to see robust growth in<br />
the period to 2010, while expectations in the major EU countries<br />
are moderately optimistic. The number of garments purchased<br />
per head of the population will continue to rise, but prices will not<br />
follow this growth rate. The populations are becoming more multiethnic<br />
and the average age is increasing. This will lead to new<br />
demands and consumer behaviour.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 9
Table 3: <strong>Outerwear</strong> consumption in the EU countries (2003-2009, € million)<br />
10<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
2003 2004 2007 2009 forecast Per capita 2007 - in € CAGR (03-09)<br />
Germany 50’548 49’915 50’863 51’100 618 0.18%<br />
UK 40’804 43’845 46’152 47’000 760 2.38%<br />
Italy 38’724 39’320 41’115 43’000 698 1.76%<br />
France 33’351 34’420 35’179 36’500 576 1.52%<br />
Spain 18’190 19’268 20’544 20’900 462 2.34%<br />
Netherlands 9’075 9’023 9’456 9’800 578 1.29%<br />
Belgium 6’712 6’972 7’219 7’450 683 1.75%<br />
Austria 5’846 5’918 6’132 6’240 737 1.09%<br />
Sweden 5’204 5’602 6’068 6’480 666 3.72%<br />
Greece 5’198 5’692 5’891 6’170 527 2.90%<br />
Poland 5’368 5’217 5’038 5’150 132 -0.69%<br />
Portugal 4’136 4’400 4’604 4’900 434 2.87%<br />
Denmark 3’039 3’408 3’694 3’950 678 4.47%<br />
Romania 2’572 2’922 3’210 3’500 149 5.27%<br />
Finland 2’382 2’668 2’992 3’140 567 4.71%<br />
Ireland 2’488 2’579 2’732 2’700 636 1.37%<br />
Czech Rep. 1’770 1’952 2’237 2’530 217 6.13%<br />
Hungary 1’488 1’629 1’738 1’840 173 3.60%<br />
Bulgaria 809 963 1’088 1’270 143 7.81%<br />
Slovakia 617 689 809 880 150 6.10%<br />
Slovenia 601 639 744 820 370 5.31%<br />
Lithuania 370 511 687 770 204 12.99%<br />
Latvia 233 324 515 580 226 16.42%<br />
Estonia 231 284 387 480 289 12.96%<br />
Luxembourg 320 329 353 370 728 2.45%<br />
Cyprus 301 331 344 360 402 3.03%<br />
Malta 149 156 165 170 406 2.22%<br />
EU 240’526 248’976 259’956 268’050 528 1.82%<br />
Source: Euromonitor, Retail Intelligence and several national statistics, CBI
1.5 Marketing and distribution<br />
Developments in the retail sector, like a growing concentration at<br />
retail level, expanding by internationalisation and growing competition,<br />
lead to an increased demand for fashionable products<br />
against low prices.<br />
• The EU market has witnessed the relentless growth of clothing<br />
multiple chains and franchised outlets, leading to the decline<br />
of the formerly strong independents’ sector. This trend will be<br />
continued in the coming years.<br />
• The hypermarket format, with its strong non-food component<br />
and international character, plays an increasingly important<br />
role in outerwear sales in Western as well as in Eastern EU<br />
countries.<br />
• The fast-changing demand in the clothing market is a<br />
significant factor. Because of the higher dynamics of the<br />
clothing markets in terms of more rapidly changing consumer<br />
preferences and more seasons per year, there is a general<br />
tendency in the clothing branch to demand shorter delivery<br />
times and smaller volumes of series and orders.<br />
• The role of importing wholesalers and importers remains<br />
relatively important but will slightly decline, while the role<br />
of clothing multiples and, to a lesser degree, buying groups or<br />
franchise formula will increase in the coming years.<br />
Parallel to the trend for suppliers to make their clothing abroad<br />
is a trend for retailers or wholesalers to bypass the local<br />
industry totally, by means of direct imports.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 11
2. France.<br />
2.1 General economic situation.<br />
The financial crisis did not spare the French economy, which faced<br />
a deep recession in 2009, even if the situation was less severe<br />
than elsewhere. After a clear drop in the fourth quarter of 2008,<br />
economic activity slightly grew in 2009. Both the timing and the<br />
strength of recovery remain uncertain, primarily because of the<br />
risks surrounding the balance sheets of financial institutions. While<br />
French banks have been weakened by the crisis, they are not as<br />
shaky as their counterparts in many other countries. Moreover,<br />
the risk that the real estate market correction now under way will<br />
accentuate the decline in economic activity is attenuated to some<br />
extent by the low rate of household indebtedness and the weakness<br />
of the wealth effect on consumption. The crisis will leave<br />
public finances in poor shape, and once the recovery begins, a<br />
priority will be to phase out the general government budget deficit.<br />
Given the already very heavy burden of taxes and compulsory<br />
contributions, public finance consolidation will require strict control<br />
over expenditures.<br />
According to INSEE, the French National Institute of Statistics<br />
and Economic Studies, the French Gross National Product (GNP)<br />
decreased in 2009 by -1.3%, in 2008 and 2007 in increased by<br />
2.1%. This was slightly over the average growth rate of the European<br />
Union. With 2.8% in 2009, the consumer price inflation rate<br />
was under the average rate of the European Union (3.5%). The<br />
unemployment rate declined from 10.1% in 2005 to 7.4% in 2009.<br />
This number is said to grow over 10% in 2010 due to the financial<br />
crisis.<br />
12<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
2.2 The market for outerwear.<br />
2.2.1 Market size<br />
In 2009, the market size of outerwear in France amounted to €<br />
24.1 billion, which is 62% of the total clothing market. The French<br />
clothing market is forecast to grow steadily between 2010 and<br />
2013 to reach a value of € 41.4 billion, of which up to € 26 billion<br />
will be outerwear. France, which accounts for 13% of the population<br />
of the 27-member EU, is the fourth largest clothing market<br />
behind Germany, Italy and the United Kingdom. Apparel imports, at<br />
€ 14.5 billion, are slightly higher than local production at €14 billion.<br />
The imports of outerwear increased by 25% in terms of value from<br />
2004 to 2009. In the same period local production decreased by<br />
-44%, of which goods amounting to € 5.3 billion were exported.<br />
Table 4: Size of the French outerwear market, 2009<br />
Import<br />
Value [€ bn]<br />
14.5<br />
Local production 4.3<br />
Export 5.3<br />
Total market size 24.1<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
2.2.2 Market characteristics<br />
French clothing, French design and French labels have a long tradi-<br />
tion and a good reputation. Clothing labels originating from France<br />
are internationally considered to be fashionable and of good quality.<br />
The internationalised French expression ‘haute couture’ signals the<br />
worldwide importance of French fashion and French clothing brands.<br />
Fashion is often associated with French fashion design.<br />
Compared to other EU countries, France is said to be dominated by<br />
price-conscious consumers. The reasons for this can be found in an<br />
unemployment rate of around 7.5% and a relatively low economic<br />
growth rate. On the other hand, the French are said to be very<br />
fashion-conscious too. However, spontaneous purchases are comparatively<br />
rare because of price sensitivity.<br />
There is a high share of independent retailers in France that are run<br />
as smaller boutiques all over the country.
However, the other extreme is also seen in the retail market: the so<br />
called ‘centrales d’achat’, huge supermarkets (Carrefour, E. Leclerc,<br />
Intermarché etc.) and clothing chains like Promod, Pimkie, Kookai<br />
etc., have strengthened their share in the French clothing market. In<br />
this scenario it is obvious that the French clothing retail system is very<br />
fragmented. France has the largest network of outlets and franchise<br />
systems operated by clothing manufacturers within Europe. Both<br />
systems, franchising and own outlets, merge with each other and<br />
cooperate very closely.<br />
2.2.3 Demographic characteristics<br />
The size and age structure of the population is one of the basic<br />
determinants of which products will be bought and how much will<br />
be spent on clothing.<br />
Figure 1: Age structure of the French population by gender, 2008<br />
10 0 +<br />
9 5 - 9 9<br />
9 0 - 9 4<br />
8 5 - 9 0<br />
8 0 - 8 5<br />
75 -79<br />
70 -74<br />
6 5 - 6 9<br />
6 0 - 6 4<br />
5 5 - 59<br />
50 - 5 4<br />
4 5 - 49<br />
4 0 - 4 4<br />
3 5 - 3 9<br />
3 0 - 3 4<br />
25 -29<br />
20 -24<br />
15 -19<br />
10 -14<br />
5 - 9<br />
0 - 4<br />
male female<br />
2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5<br />
Source: U.S. Census Bureau, International Data Base<br />
Population in millions<br />
France’s population has increased at a very slow rate in recent<br />
years. This has been a result of a low birth rate narrowly outstripping<br />
the declining death rate. Rates of immigration have also<br />
decreased in recent years, further slowing population growth.<br />
The 15-24 age segment of the female population tends to be<br />
made up of fashionable consumers, with a tendency to spend a lot<br />
of money on their clothing and personal adornment. These consumers<br />
are also likely to look for new styles and designs.<br />
With life expectancy among the French population increasing<br />
significantly over the past ten years, in addition to the effects of the<br />
‘baby boomer’ generation, the number of over-50s in the population<br />
has increased rapidly.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 13
The following figure shows a breakdown of outerwear expenditure<br />
by demographic segment in 2009.<br />
Figure 2: Breakdown of outerwear expenditure by demographic<br />
segment in 2009<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009 and Euromonitor 2009<br />
2.2.4 Retail sales by product category<br />
Table 5 gives a brief overview of the market share for the most<br />
relevant clothing segments, divided into men and women. Formerly,<br />
French consumers tended to buy more formal clothing than<br />
consumers in other European countries. This share has declined,<br />
to the advantage of basic leisurewear sales.<br />
Table 5: Market share of outerwear by gender, 2003 and 2007 [%]<br />
Women Men<br />
2003 2007 2003 2007<br />
Formal 36 32 41 37<br />
Casual 39 41 30 32<br />
Leisure 19 20 21 22<br />
Active sports 6 7 8 9<br />
Total 100 100 100 100<br />
Source: CBI<br />
Table 6 indicates the sales development of the women’s outerwear<br />
segment in € million of sales.<br />
14<br />
Women<br />
Men<br />
Children (aged 8-14)<br />
Babies (aged 0-7)<br />
53%<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
4%<br />
14%<br />
29%<br />
Table 6: Sales of women's wear by product categories, 2007 – 2008<br />
Sales in mn Euro<br />
per article category<br />
2007 2008 +/- from<br />
previous year<br />
Waterproof coats 758 741 -2%<br />
Anoraks, parkas, jackets 445 348 -22%<br />
Jackets & blazers 155 145 -6%<br />
Coats etc. 268 293 9%<br />
Gilets without sleeves 55 77 40%<br />
Suits, outfits 915 615 -33%<br />
Dresses 665 728 9%<br />
Skirts 741 568 -23%<br />
Trousers 1’546 1’532 -1%<br />
Trousers (sports) 46 38<br />
Jeans 1’007 1’084 8%<br />
Overalls 5 12 140%<br />
Shorts & bermudas 86 95 10%<br />
Skirts & smocks 28 24 -14%<br />
Blouses 527 544 3%<br />
T-Shirts 1’186 1’133 -4%<br />
Tops without sleeves 270 216 -20%<br />
Polos 135 111 -18%<br />
Bodies 7 17 143%<br />
Pullovers, waistcoats,<br />
cardigans<br />
270 257 -5%<br />
Sweatshirts 97 92 -5%<br />
Tracksuits 61 70 15%<br />
Swimsuits 236 231 -2%<br />
Unitards 58 56 -3%<br />
Sport shirts 56 48 -14%<br />
Other pieces of outerwear 0 69 n.a.<br />
Other small pieces<br />
of outerwear<br />
999 999 0<br />
Total 10’604 10’073 -5%<br />
Total pieces of outerwear 6’674 6’261 -6%<br />
Total small pieces<br />
of outerwear<br />
3’930 3’812 -3%<br />
Source: Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin<br />
The above table indicates the sales development of the women’s<br />
clothing segment in thousands of articles. Overall, an important<br />
decrease in sales can be observed between 2007 and 2008.
2.2.5 Consumer behaviour<br />
2.2.5.1 Consumer preferences<br />
As with the young generations in other European countries, French<br />
children like U.S. fashion styles and are influenced by American<br />
culture. Therefore, American brands and/or brands perceived to<br />
be American are particularly successful in the children's wear<br />
segment. The youngsters are also interested in sportswear, which<br />
is used also as everyday clothing. Sports like rugby, football and<br />
basketball are quite popular.<br />
The trends for ‘American’ styles strongly influenced by the ‘Hip- Hop<br />
Scene’ and the preferred sportswear are expressed in the sales<br />
of items like t-shirts, sweatshirts, polo-shirts in combination with<br />
baseball caps. Young consumers’ demand for sportswear helped<br />
the largest sports retailer Decathlon to increase its sales of<br />
children’s clothing in the last few years.<br />
As regards fabrics, there is a trend towards natural, easy to wear<br />
and modern fibres (jersey, cotton flannel, stretch, technical fabrics,<br />
polar fleeces). The children’s parents prefer clothing which is<br />
easy to wash and which requires no ironing. However, 70% of the<br />
clothing of 4 to 14 year old is selected by the children themselves<br />
and not by the parents. Children from six years up develop brand<br />
awareness, which is mainly formed by their peer group and TV<br />
advertising.<br />
Women’s wear follows the broad trend toward more casual and<br />
sporty garments. Several fashion forecasts announced that<br />
collections will be more feminine and will have less casual details.<br />
The younger men in France are more fashion-conscious, spending<br />
more on clothing in the last few years than before. The fact that<br />
casual wear is more common for the office is a particular trend<br />
which has grown in recent years.<br />
Children’s wear is more classic and formal for special occasions<br />
than in other EU countries, like The Netherlands and Germany.<br />
However, younger fashion brands have increased the last few<br />
years, and more and more have an adult look.<br />
Trends in consumption<br />
• In women’s wear, clothing is becoming more feminine. Luxury<br />
looking materials and colours are used to create a good feeling<br />
in answer to financial unstable times.<br />
• The increasing feminization of clothing products could drive<br />
trends for clothing accessories, also for the use of pearls and<br />
embroidery. Luxury appearance materials and colours are used<br />
to create a good feeling, in answer to financial instable times.<br />
Other forecasts are:<br />
A-symmetrical openings and several layers will become popular.<br />
Several lengths can be created in one garment or in a combi<br />
nation of several garments, like skirt with long tunic or blouse<br />
and short waistcoat or short jacket on a top.<br />
Accents on the waist by large belts or accents on the neck by<br />
wide scarves in accent colours.<br />
Skirts remain popular in all types and kind of lengths.<br />
• In general, there is much dynamism in consumer preferences<br />
at the moment. Cultural changes are succeeding each other<br />
rapidly. This makes predictions of consumer behaviour rather<br />
tricky.<br />
• Babies’ wear is still classical and hardly follows the trends of<br />
adult clothing. Newborn collections are mainly plain or have<br />
childlike decorations and are less influenced by the casual<br />
trends, as in adult fashion.<br />
• Materials, like cashmere and angora, are very expensive<br />
and delicate to treat, but in France where more luxury fashion<br />
is appreciated by women, this quality is and will become more<br />
popular.<br />
• For the coming winter-season (2010/11) the trend is warm<br />
colours in hairy woollen yarns such as mohair, angora or<br />
cashmere. This combination gives knitwear a voluminous look<br />
and warm feeling.<br />
• Tunics and long pullovers to wear like a dress combined with<br />
legging/trousers/tights will become more popular.<br />
• Catwalk reports announced an upcoming trend for winter<br />
2010/11: more accent on neck and shoulder, for example big<br />
collars or cowls.<br />
• Consumers become more aware of sustainability issues.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 15
2.2.5.2 Consumer expenditures<br />
Taking the total consumer expenditure on manufactured goods as<br />
reference value, the share of consumer expenditures on clothing<br />
has declined by 1.9% from 2004 to 2009.<br />
The development of consumer expenditure of manufactured goods<br />
increased in the same period by 13.9% and the expenditure on<br />
total clothing and total outerwear by less than 1%. This is certainly<br />
due to two different factors, which are a) falling clothing prices due<br />
to cheap imports and b) to shift of expenditure to electronic goods<br />
and leisure.<br />
Table 7: Development of consumer expenditure in France<br />
16<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
2004 2006 2008 2009*<br />
Manufactured goods [€ bn] 231.6 250.5 261.0 263.7<br />
Total clothing [€ bn] 38.7 39.8 40.6 39.0<br />
In % of manufactured goods 16.7% 15.9% 15.6% 14.8%<br />
Total outerwear [€ bn] 33.9 34.9 35.3 34.0<br />
In % of total consumption 87.7% 87.6% 87.0% 87.2%<br />
Source: Eurostat and Euromonitor – Note: *estimation<br />
According to Table 8, which considers the expenditures on outerwear<br />
by gender in France, consumption of women’s outerwear<br />
clothing was € 18.2 billion in 2009 and accounted for 53.5% of<br />
total clothing consumption.<br />
Table 8: Consumer expenditure on outerwear clothing<br />
2004 2006 2008 2009*<br />
Women [€ bn] 18.0 18.8 18.8 18.2<br />
Men [€ bn] 9.8 9.9 10.1 9.7<br />
Children<br />
(aged 3-14) [€ bn]<br />
6.1 6.2 6.4 6.1<br />
Total [€ bn] 33.9 34.9 35.3 34.0<br />
Source: Eurostat and Euromonitor – Note: *estimation<br />
2.2.6 Price development of clothing<br />
Prices of imports into France fell during the period 2006-2008, as<br />
table 9 indicates. Prices from DCs (Developing Countries), as well<br />
as from other EU countries fell during the period mentioned.<br />
In 2008, price movements reinforced the trend of increasing<br />
purchases of lower-priced outerwear from Asian manufacturers.<br />
Import prices from DCs were 61% of the level of intra-EU import<br />
prices, but they fell as from 2004.<br />
Table 9: Developments of average import prices per unit in France [€]<br />
Total<br />
imports<br />
2006 2007 2008 CAGR*<br />
4.89 4.82 4.74 -1.0%<br />
Intra-EU 6.39 6.23 6.16 -1.2%<br />
Developing<br />
countries<br />
3.79 3.76 3.73 -0.5%<br />
Source: Gherzi analysis based on CBI Note:* Compound Annual Growth Rate<br />
This data must be interpreted with care, as changes in imports do<br />
not reflect the demand in France.<br />
2.3 Imports.<br />
2.3.1 Total imports<br />
According to Eurostat, total imports of apparel into France amounted<br />
to € 13.1 billion in 2008. Since 1999, there has been a continuous<br />
increase in clothing imports. The share of imports of outerwear<br />
in total French clothing consumption is over 30%.<br />
Increasing imports are more than balancing the shrinking domestic<br />
outerwear production. A comparison of the following Table 10 and<br />
Table 11 shows that the proportion of men’s and women's wear<br />
imports into France are different for knitted and woven outerwear.<br />
While the imports of woven outerwear for men (€ 2.5 billion) and<br />
women (€ 3.5 billion) are at a similar level, the imports of knitted<br />
women' s wear (€ 0.9 billion) clearly over top the imports of knitted<br />
menswear (€ 0.4 billion). The imports of woven outerwear are,<br />
depending on the product category, five to nine times higher than<br />
the imports of knitted outerwear.<br />
According to Table 10, the imports of knitted outerwear into France<br />
increased steadily from 2006 to 2008. Active sportswear such as<br />
tracksuits, ski suits and swimwear is particularly worth mentioning.<br />
Woven outerwear for both genders is by far the largest sector with<br />
€ 7.2 billion in 2008.
Table 10: imports of knitted outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008<br />
For men or boys<br />
2006 2007 2008<br />
Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.01) 1’442 33’622 1’630 34’265 1’636 31’359<br />
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers,<br />
shorts etc. (61.03)<br />
1’331 88’256 1’686 92’406 1’395 76’811<br />
Shirts (61.05) 6’372 175’888 8’697 256’631 9’828 285’013<br />
Sub Total 9’145 297’765 12’012 383’301 12’859 393’183<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 8’045 118’297 11’115 160’301 12’181 180’412<br />
For women or girls<br />
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.02) 2’956 84’701 2’181 76’668 1’912 81’899<br />
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, dresses,<br />
skirts etc. (61.04)<br />
11’592 453’299 13’602 576’785 15’659 570’854<br />
Blouses and shirts (61.06) 4’443 190’839 6’512 265’987 7’812 283’737<br />
Sub Total 18’992 728’839 22’295 919’440 25’383 936’490<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 18’278 306’438 22’234 407’945 25’383 448’996<br />
For both genders<br />
T-shirts, singlets etc. (61.09) 60’245 1’580’733 61’031 1’615’262 54’764 1’465’754<br />
Jersey, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats,<br />
etc. (61.10)<br />
64’190 1’946’166 60’872 1’989’934 61’043 2’135’580<br />
Babies’ garments (61.11) 21’983 323’331 22’197 325’293 22’210 328’447<br />
Garments rubberised, impregnated,<br />
etc. (61.13)<br />
1’555 24’779 1’711 27’490 1’588 24’768<br />
Gloves, mittens and mitts (61.16) 6’326 120’928 6’768 119’140 8’003 141’282<br />
Other made-up clothing accessories (61.17) 3’735 74’194 3’630 76’235 3’951 76’063<br />
Sub Total 158’034 4’070’132 156’208 4’153’354 151’559 4’171’895<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 143’974 2’101’010 147’397 2’137’733 142’665 2’105’247<br />
Active Sportswear<br />
Track suits, ski suits and swimwear (61.12) 4’203 211’871 3’942 203’673 3’385 198’164<br />
Special garments for professional<br />
sporting or other purposes (61.14)<br />
6’046 142’545 5’539 132’021 6’071 127’166<br />
Sub Total 10’249 354’415 9’480 335’694 9’455 325’330<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 6’855 147’698 6’725 141’315 6’784 139’255<br />
TOTAL 196’419 5’451’152 199’996 5’791’789 199’257 5’826’897<br />
TOTAL EXTRA EU 177’152 2’673’443 187’471 2’847’294 187’013 2’873’909<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 17
In comparison to previous years, the share of the non-EU countries<br />
in the knitted outerwear imports is with 49% stable, while the<br />
overall trend in France is an increase in imports. The end of the<br />
MFA radically changed the French textile and clothing production<br />
landscape. An innumerable number of mills have been closed and<br />
many jobs have been lost.<br />
Table 11: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008<br />
2006 2007 2008<br />
Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />
For men or boys<br />
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.01) 12’377 352’898 10’880 346’659 11’287 370’994<br />
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers,<br />
shorts, etc. (62.03)<br />
49’466 1’557’904 50’733 1’606’991 51’388 1’613’016<br />
Shirts (62.05) 13’827 491’092 14’806 521’555 14’635 533’004<br />
Sub Total 75’670 2’401’895 76’419 2’475’205 77’310 2’517’014<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
For women or girls<br />
72’844 1’164’986 76’043 1’219’641 77’298 1’232’880<br />
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.02) 14’219 478’088 14’132 511’264 13’588 554’816<br />
Suits, jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers,<br />
etc (62.04)<br />
60’269 2’544’895 57’539 2’507’454 57’579 2’409’944<br />
Blouses and shirts (62.06) 7’067 421’858 6’797 455’432 7’969 530’464<br />
Sub Total 81’555 3’444’840 78’468 3’474’150 79’136 3’495’224<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
For both genders<br />
76’544 1’596’160 77’808 1’562’223 79’126 1’597’206<br />
Babies garments (62.09) 10’086 187’197 10’162 188’624 9’777 180’947<br />
Others incl. Impregnated (62.10) 29’558 360’977 28’799 327’161 29’464 315’592<br />
Shawls, scarves, mufflers, etc. (62.14) 2’350 115’410 1’842 112’583 2’530 128’206<br />
Ties, bow ties and cravats (62.15) 358 43’100 481 43’986 478 44’262<br />
Gloves, mittens and mitts (62.16) 1’346 36’189 994 27’729 894 26’888<br />
Other made-up clothing accessories<br />
(62.17)<br />
3’370 65’949 3’945 75’315 3’284 74’284<br />
Sub Total 47’068 808’823 46’222 775’398 46’426 770’178<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
Active Sportswear<br />
26’418 432’433 26’500 408’163 27’599 406’395<br />
Track suits, ski suits (62.11) 23’574 402’070 23’759 399’016 28’647 461’674<br />
Sub Total 23’574 402’070 23’759 399’016 28’647 461’674<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 15’325 206’800 16’111 217’938 19’124 253’924<br />
TOTAL 227’866 7’057’627 224’868 7’123’769 231’519 7’244’091<br />
TOTAL EXTRA EU 191’132 3’400’379 196’462 3’407’965 203’147 3’490’404<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
18<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
The import of the women’s woven segment increased from € 3.4<br />
billion in 2006 to € 3.5 billion in 2008. Woven suits for men (€ 1.6<br />
billion) and women (€2.4 billion) have the highest share of imports.
2.3.2 Outward processing trade (OPT)<br />
The analysis of the largest suppliers of OPT outerwear into France<br />
in Table 12 shows a downturn in OPT. Overall, the OPT business<br />
plays a minor role in France, accounting for only 0.66% of the total<br />
outerwear clothing imports.<br />
Tunisia is the most important OPT partner country for France.<br />
Morocco is second, as it was in the previous two years. Belarus<br />
is catching up to China and could become fourth in the coming<br />
years.<br />
Table 12: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008<br />
Position Country 2006<br />
[‘000 €]<br />
2.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear<br />
Table 13 gives a very good overview of the twenty major extra EU<br />
countries supplying clothing to France from 2006 to 2008. The<br />
share of clothing imports from extra EU countries in France was<br />
48.6% in 2006 and had slightly increased to 48.7% in 2008.<br />
The imports from outside the EU in 2008 amounted to € 6.4<br />
billion, whereas € 6.7 billion were imported from the European<br />
Union. While the total imports to France amounted to € 12.5 billion<br />
in 2006, they exceeded € 13.1 billion in 2008, an increase of<br />
4.8%. Overall, the growth rates of total imports increased by 3%<br />
and 1%, respectively. The main import countries for France from<br />
outside Europe are: China (€ 2.4 billion), Tunisia (€ 0.7 billion) and<br />
Morocco (€ 0.6 billion). Morocco and Tunisia are French speaking<br />
countries; this is a very important advantage for them when<br />
exporting to France.<br />
Change<br />
from 2006<br />
2007<br />
[‘000 €]<br />
Change<br />
from 2007<br />
2008<br />
[‘000 €]<br />
1 Tunisia 36599 -9% 33’480 -7% 31’249<br />
2 Morocco 36’294 -21% 28’694 -24% 21’859<br />
3 Ukraine 24’319 -10% 21’874 -27% 15’928<br />
4 China 6’842 55% 10’636 -22% 8’301<br />
5 Belarus 1’757 41% 2’486 106% 5’130<br />
6 Serbia 1’831 -12% 1’613 -17% 1’345<br />
7 Bosnia - Herzegovina 583 12% 653 17% 766<br />
8 Hong Kong 451 5% 474 52% 719<br />
9 Moldova 478 214% 1’500 -65% 529<br />
10 Lao (People’s Democratic Republic) 0 0 400<br />
11 Madagascar 840 -1% 835 -59% 340<br />
12 Vietnam 38 194% 111 160% 289<br />
13 India 339 270% 1’256 -81% 244<br />
14 Turkey 31 11% 35 422% 182<br />
15 Croatia 65 102% 131 -42% 76<br />
16 Egypt 17 -100% 0 35<br />
17 South Korea 0 0 19<br />
18 USA 0 0 15<br />
19 Thailand 44 -75% 11 -68% 3<br />
20 <strong>Switzerland</strong> 0 28 -100% 0<br />
Total 163’031 -36% 104’125 -16% 87’428<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 19
Table 13: Largest extra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008<br />
20<br />
Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from<br />
2006<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
2007 [‘000 €] Change from<br />
2007<br />
2008 [‘000 €]<br />
1 China 1’706’835 21% 2’063’477 16% 2’403’807<br />
2 Tunisia 724’022 -2% 712’974 1% 716’682<br />
3 Morocco 673’775 -1% 667’699 -5% 632’342<br />
4 India 575’986 -2% 563’260 3% 579’893<br />
5 Bangladesh 506’696 0% 505’593 6% 538’135<br />
6 Turkey 473’249 -4% 456’431 -5% 432’976<br />
7 <strong>Switzerland</strong> 147’655 26% 186’272 3% 191’969<br />
8 Mauritius 141’210 -10% 127’783 -13% 110’726<br />
9 Madagascar 82’148 9% 89’489 -6% 84’430<br />
10 Thailand 160’357 -15% 135’684 -39% 82’628<br />
11 Pakistan 71’823 9% 78’482 0% 78’534<br />
12 Vietnam 83’922 -2% 82’205 -7% 76’574<br />
13 Indonesia 99’603 -15% 84’583 -18% 69’144<br />
14 Hong Kong 125’119 -33% 83’618 -54% 38’281<br />
15 South Korea 67’096 -36% 42’641 -21% 33’894<br />
16 Cambodia 33’740 -2% 33’020 -13% 28’743<br />
17 Malaysia 25’550 8% 27’592 -14% 23’682<br />
18 Macao 67’610 -23% 52’341 -62% 20’126<br />
19 USA 19’313 2% 19’660 -7% 18’336<br />
20 Sri Lanka 24’124 -23% 18’470 -1% 18’228<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
Extra-EU 27 6’073’822 3% 6’255’259 2% 6’364’314<br />
Intra-EU 27 6’434’957 4% 6’660’298 1% 6’706’674<br />
Total 12’508’779 3% 12’915’557 1% 13’070’988<br />
Typically, the French consider themselves to be rather weak<br />
in foreign language skills. Moreover, they are not very keen on<br />
speaking another language than French. This fact should be<br />
considered by foreign manufacturers wishing to sell in the French<br />
market. This fact also explains the leadership position of the<br />
relatively small EU country Belgium, which is characterised as<br />
a multilingual country, including the French language. Much<br />
business with Belgium is done on a subcontracting basis.
Table 14: Largest intra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008<br />
Position Country 2006 [‘000 €]<br />
Change from<br />
2006<br />
2007 [‘000 €]<br />
Change from<br />
2007<br />
2008 [‘000 €]<br />
1 Belgium 1’912’349 9% 2’078’537 0% 2’071’727<br />
2 Italy 1’221’326 7% 1’303’005 -1% 1’294’389<br />
3 Germany 908’896 2% 930’096 8% 1’003’780<br />
4 Spain 451’480 -2% 443’357 35% 598’331<br />
5 Netherlands 527’459 2% 538’405 -11% 480’377<br />
6 UK 310’152 4% 323’906 1% 327’259<br />
7 Portugal 284’717 5% 297’679 -4% 287’208<br />
8 Romania 289’010 -19% 235’203 -23% 182’195<br />
9 Luxembourg 32’180 -8% 29’705 0% 29’702<br />
10 Bulgaria 140’716 -19% 113’425 -14% 98’016<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
Intra-EU 27 5’933’106 4% 6’141’834 2% 6’266’298<br />
Extra-EU 27 6’073’822 3% 6’255’259 2% 6’364’314<br />
Total 12’508’779 3% 12’915’557 1% 13’070’988<br />
2.4 Trade structure.<br />
2.4.1 Developments in the retail trade<br />
It would be too simple to assume that price is the only area of<br />
competition in the French market. Quality, style and trend also play<br />
an important role.<br />
The clothing retail sector in France went through major changes<br />
over the last years. From the beginning of the 1980’s, consumers<br />
were used to independent shops that offered various brands. Apparel<br />
sold by independent retailers in France accounted for 39.1%<br />
of total sales in 1995. In 2008 only 20% were sold by independent<br />
retailers. Within the last years, the multiples also (as in other European<br />
countries) invaded France, and consumers are more likely to<br />
buy in speciality chain stores with large outlets.<br />
This development enhanced lower prices for outerwear through<br />
the greater competition and number of goods imported by these<br />
chains. These companies, of which most are French chains, have<br />
a very up-to-date concept with a high standard in logistics, IT<br />
and advertising. There seems to be a real competition on who is<br />
the next to open up a high-end logistics centre. The professional<br />
management system in the clothing sector has swept away small<br />
retailers. This development has been a concentrated process<br />
that has given the retailers more purchasing power against the<br />
manufacturers in comparison with the formerly fragmented small<br />
retailers.<br />
The multiples are now in the position to react more quickly to<br />
consumer demands by following a strategy of greater ‘just in time’<br />
supply to the shops and the consumers. The chains act like manufacturers<br />
in this respect. However, the link to the manufacturers has<br />
become closer. The importance of middlemen has been reduced<br />
and retailers buy directly from the clothing companies (abroad).<br />
The increased purchasing power of the retailers stimulated some<br />
clothing manufacturers to build up an independent distribution system<br />
by operating self-owned outlets or using a ‘franchise system’.<br />
2.4.2 Leading retailers<br />
In France, there are about 33'250 active clothing retail companies,<br />
which have 47'500 stores, of which an estimated two thirds are<br />
owned by independent retailers, which have fewer than 5 outlets.<br />
The big number of specialists chains indicates that the French<br />
market is less concentrated than, for instance, the UK market. Important<br />
French groups are Vivarte, Auchan/Mulliez, Etam, Groupe<br />
Beaumanoir and Promod. These groups are also active in many<br />
European countries.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 21
Table 15: Major specialised clothing chains of French origin in France, 2008-2009<br />
22<br />
Clothing retail chain Parent company Website Number of outlets<br />
General<br />
Kiabi Association Mulliez www.kiabi.com 160<br />
La Halle aux Vêtements Vivarte www.lahalle.com 345 (463)<br />
Vêtimarché ITM Intermarché www.vetimarche.com 154<br />
Eurodif<br />
Men and women<br />
Eurodif UOCR www.eurodif.com 74<br />
Armand Thierry<br />
Women’s wear<br />
Ecce www.armandthiery.fr 279<br />
Promod Promod www.promod.eu 271 (783)<br />
Camaïeu Femme Cime-Camaïeu www.camaieu.fr 504<br />
Etam Etam Developpemt www.etam.com 718 (3’300)<br />
Pimkie Association Mulliez www.pimkie.fr 270 (655)<br />
Mim New Look (UK) www.mim.fr 278<br />
Caroll Vivarte www.caroll.com 350 (2’350)<br />
Cache Cache Groupe Beaumanoir www.cachecache.fr 541<br />
Patrice Bréal Groupe Beaumanoir www.patricebreal.fr 239<br />
Scottage<br />
Men<br />
Groupe Beaumanoir www.scottage.fr 89<br />
Brice Brice www.brice.fr 204 (220)<br />
Jules<br />
Children<br />
Association Mulliez www.jules.fr 238<br />
Jacadi Id Group www.jacadi.fr 109 (250)<br />
Okaidi / Obaidi<br />
Sports<br />
Id Group www.idgroup.com 560<br />
Décathlon Association Mulliez www.decathlon.com 235 (475)<br />
Intersport Intersport Group www.intersport.com 522 (4’885)<br />
Sport2000 Groupe Sport 2000 www.sport2000.fr 600 (2’446)<br />
Source: CBI - Note: Numbers in brackets including outlets abroad<br />
Only three out of the top ten general clothing specialists in France<br />
are companies from abroad - C&A (from Germany; 119 stores),<br />
H&M (from Sweden; 133 stores) and Inditex from Spain (231<br />
stores in France, of which 115 Zara stores). Other foreign retail<br />
companies, active in France, are other formula of Inditex (mainly<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Bershka), Cortefiel; Mango (also from Spain; 107 stores); Benetton<br />
(from Italy; 91 stores); M&S Mode (from The Netherlands; 150<br />
stores), Esprit (from Germany/Hong Kong; 640 stores) and Gap<br />
(from the USA; 17 stores).
2.4.3 Distribution channels<br />
Table 16 gives an overview on sales made by different clothing retail<br />
channels in 2004 to 2008. Compared to previous years, sales<br />
in independent clothing shops are decreasing. They once used to<br />
be the most important location for the French to buy their clothing.<br />
Now they are (at 20%) behind the multiples that have a share of<br />
37%. The trend towards more concentration is also reflected by<br />
the relatively high share of super- and hypermarkets (11%). Home<br />
shopping companies took some 9% of sales value in 2008.<br />
Table 16: Market shares of retail distribution of clothing in France,<br />
2004 – 2008 [% of value]<br />
Market Shares<br />
of retail distribution<br />
2004 2006 2008<br />
Specialists 59 58 57<br />
Independent retailers 21 21 20<br />
Clothing multiples 38 37 37<br />
Non-specialists 41 42 43<br />
Department and variety stores 7 8 9<br />
Hyper- and supermarkets 12 12 11<br />
Home shopping companies 8 8 9<br />
Sports shops and other chains 7 8 9<br />
Other channels 7 6 5<br />
Total 100 100 100<br />
Source: Journal de Textile (2009) and UFIH (2009)<br />
Factory Outlet Centres have also gained importance, in 2008 there<br />
were 21 of them spread around the country with an total area of<br />
280'000m2 and a total turnover of € 0.8 billion.<br />
2.4.3.1 Retailers<br />
2.4.3.1.1 Independent retailers<br />
The share of independent retailers decreased from 28% in 1995<br />
to 20% in 2008. Independent retailers are defined as retailers with<br />
less than five ‘active’ outlets. There are around 33'250 independent<br />
outlets in France. Their buying is sometimes linked to franchise<br />
organisations. Although the share of independent specialised<br />
retailers is generally decreasing, it is still much higher than in other<br />
countries. Figures indicate that the strong decline came to a stop<br />
in 2004, when there was an upward trend.<br />
Market share: 20% in 2008, Trend: Decreasing<br />
2.4.3.1.2 Clothing multiples<br />
The long-term trend clearly indicates a higher importance of<br />
clothing multiples and more concentration of the market (Journal<br />
de Textile). Generally, the French market is still less concentrated<br />
in the retail sector than in other European countries. However,<br />
this is expected to change. The outlets for children's wear are<br />
numerous. There are three times more outlets of clothing multiples<br />
for women than for men. The largest player in the retail business<br />
is the Groupe Vivarte (formerly Groupe André). Groupe Vivarte<br />
owns the clothing chains Caroll, Kookaï, Creeks, Liberto and La<br />
Halle aux Vêtements. Shoe shop chains called André, San Marina,<br />
Orcade-Minelli, La Halle aux Chaussures and Chaussland et<br />
Besson also belong to Groupe Vivarte. In November 2001, Groupe<br />
André was renamed Groupe Vivarte.<br />
Market share: 37% in 2008, Trend: Stable<br />
2.4.3.1.3 Department and variety stores<br />
The main department store in France is Les Galeries Lafayette,<br />
which also operates under the name Nouvelles Galeries. Another<br />
department store of importance in France is PPR (Pinault-<br />
Printemps-Redoute). Variety stores include Prisunec, Monoprix<br />
and Inno, which belong to Galeries Lafayette. The importance<br />
of department stores has stabilised over the last few years after<br />
decreases in the last decade.<br />
Market share: 9 % in 2008, Trend: Increasing<br />
2.4.3.1.4 Hyper- and supermarkets<br />
The grocery super- and hypermarkets offer comparatively more<br />
men's wear. The supermarkets and hypermarkets that have a<br />
higher share in the menswear segment have done better for<br />
major items, but are reported to have problems with small items,<br />
although socks and underwear constitute their main clothing<br />
business. A trend can be noted away from cheap products to<br />
fashionable clothing offering better quality.<br />
Market share: 11% in 2008, Trend: Slightly decreasing<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 23
2.4.3.1.5 Home shopping companies<br />
The mail-order business in France slightly increased during the<br />
past 3 years but still remains under 10%. Among the mail-order<br />
houses, La Redoute and 3 Suisses must be mentioned. La<br />
Redoute is owned by PPR, and 3 Suisses belongs to the Groupe<br />
3 Suisses International, which also carries the mail-order business<br />
Blanche Porte. Home shopping companies are said to have<br />
aggressive sales policies and heavy promotion. In the longer run,<br />
however, the mail-order business is expected to grow, since more<br />
and more French consumers have Internet access at home. It<br />
is only a matter of time until the French return to buying certain<br />
products from the home shopping companies.<br />
Market share: 9 % in 2008, Trend: slightly increasing<br />
2.4.3.1.6 Sports shops and other chains<br />
There are four relevant sports shops in France; Decathlon, Go<br />
Sports, Sport 2000 and Intersport. Sportswear is often used by<br />
the French youth and mixed with other styles.<br />
Market share: 9% in 2008, Trend: Increasing<br />
2.4.3.1.7 Other channels<br />
The share of other distribution channels is decreasing. Other<br />
channels are those that do not fall into the definition of the above<br />
mentioned channels. Examples of such distribution channels<br />
would be markets, fairs, and factory outlets.<br />
Market share: 5% in 2008, Trend: Decreasing<br />
2.4.3.2 Sales intermediaries<br />
2.4.3.2.1 Clothing manufacturers<br />
French manufacturers have slid against the retailers and their<br />
position has weakened in recent years. This is also confirmed by<br />
the fact that there are fewer ‘manufacturer’s brands’, because they<br />
are partially being replaced by the ‘retailer’s brands’. The industry<br />
is characterised by high price pressure: on the one hand, consumers<br />
have become more price conscious; on the other, imports of<br />
cheap garments from abroad lower the prices. Manufacturers have<br />
no chance but to follow the retailers. French manufacturers often<br />
produce their core product range on their own, but they also buy<br />
a considerable share of their product assortment from manufacturers<br />
abroad. Apparently, they do so in order to add certain products<br />
to complete their collection. Opportunities exist for exporters<br />
who are interested in forming relationships or partnerships with<br />
French producers.<br />
24<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
The clothing manufacturer has to rely on the distributors’ promotion<br />
and advertising for their respective collection. This can cause<br />
problems, for instance when brand names are promoted inadequately.<br />
This can only be avoided by the installation of a costly<br />
own retail system by the manufacturer. Because of the strong<br />
position of the retailers, some French clothing brands are ready to<br />
accept these greater financial investments.<br />
Establishing their own retail chain allows them to adapt more<br />
quickly to evolving market trends and have more influence on the<br />
distribution. The sales personnel can be trained according to the<br />
marketing strategy as well as the product’s image. In any case, it is<br />
recommendable not to neglect other local apparel manufacturers<br />
when building up an own retail system.<br />
2.4.3.2.2 Central buying associations<br />
There are not many important buying organisations for independent<br />
retailers in France, as they are mainly provided by the French clothing<br />
manufacturers and the wholesalers and importers. For the most part,<br />
meaningful buying associations can be found in the sportswear segment,<br />
for instance Intersport, Go Sport and Sport 2000.<br />
2.4.3.2.3 Sales Agents<br />
A sales agent based in France normally takes a commission of 10-<br />
15% if the manufacturer is from overseas (slightly higher commission<br />
because of higher risks). The sales commission within France<br />
or Europe is normally below 10%.<br />
Clothing exports into the French market via a sales agent are very<br />
common. Especially in the case of France, it is recommended<br />
for foreign manufacturers EU to work with agents as the buying<br />
of clothing is very much concentrated on the so called ‘centrales<br />
d’achats’. The buying managers often import through sales agents<br />
based in France who represent reliable manufacturers from abroad.<br />
2.4.3.2.4 Importers/wholesalers<br />
Some French retailers (mainly super- and hypermarkets, textile<br />
discounters and to some extent clothing chains) prefer not to run<br />
own control and sourcing units in overseas markets. These retailers<br />
buy their products via importers/wholesalers and often get<br />
attractive conditions. Since the end of the eighties, the importers<br />
have gained importance as the previously very strong national<br />
French clothing industry became less competitive due to increasing<br />
production costs. As a result, many importers/wholesalers<br />
enjoy increasing orders and revenues.
2.5 French fashion trade fairs.<br />
Table 17: French fashion trade fairs 2010<br />
Trade fair Date <strong>Location</strong><br />
Salon international de la lingerie 23. - 25.01.2010 Paris<br />
Who’s next (general clothing) 23. - 26.01.2010 Paris<br />
Prêt-à-Porter (women’s wear) 23. - 26.01.2010 Paris<br />
Communiquez Textile (general clothing, textiles) 02. - 04.02.2010 Lyon<br />
Rendez-Vouz Femme (Paris Fashion Week) 05. - 08.03.2010 Paris<br />
TRANSITION (fashion and accessories) 13. - 15.04.2010 Paris<br />
Interselection (general clothing) 13. - 15.04.2010 Paris<br />
Prêt-à-Porter (women’s wear) 04. - 07.09.2010 Paris<br />
Mode city (lingerie and swim wear) 04. - 06.09.2010 Paris<br />
TRANSITION (fashion and accessories) 19. - 21.10.2010 Paris<br />
FATEX (The fashion sourcing trade fair) 19. - 21.10.2010 Paris<br />
Interselection (general clothing) 19. - 21.10.2010 Paris<br />
Who’s next (general clothing) 19. - 21.10.2010 Paris<br />
Rendez-Vouz Femme (Paris Fashion Week) October 2010 Paris<br />
Source: Gherzi research, AUMA<br />
The Prêt-à-Porter Trade Fair is an international women readyto-wear<br />
exhibition with a ‘boutique’ section. The collections are<br />
normally presented on the classical pre-order system, meaning<br />
half a year ahead of the actual sales in the shops. The<br />
winter collection is shown in March, the summer collection in<br />
September of the previous year. The fair has a certain importance<br />
at the European level, but it has the character of an image fair.<br />
Nevertheless, it is the French trade fair that attracts the most<br />
visitors.<br />
Who’s Next is less specialised according to gender. Exhibitions<br />
include men's wear, women's wear and children's wear. It is also<br />
held twice a year and has attracted more than 30,000 visitors in<br />
recent years.<br />
In the highly competitive European fashion world, French trade<br />
fairs are major opportunities for business and marketing on an<br />
international scale, although the Prêt-à-Porter has slipped against<br />
the Italian and German clothing trade fairs in recent years.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 25
2.6 List of major buyers in France.<br />
Clothing Chain Stores<br />
26<br />
CMC agnès b.<br />
17, rue de Dieu<br />
F - 75010 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4003 45 00<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4003 45 50<br />
www.europe.agnesb.fr<br />
mailing@agnesb.fr<br />
Caroll International<br />
38, rue du Hameau<br />
F - 75740 Paris Cedex 15<br />
Tel.: +33 -0- 810 30 40 30<br />
Fax: +33 -01- 56 23 34 07<br />
contact@caroll.com or<br />
adenaes@caroll.com<br />
(Direction commerciale<br />
internationale)<br />
www.caroll.com<br />
Chattawak<br />
29, boulevard des Italiens<br />
F - 75002 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 - 44 94 80 60<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 42 66 93 92<br />
www.chattawak.fr<br />
courrier@chattawak.fr<br />
Brice<br />
152, avenue Alfred Motte<br />
F- 59100 ROUBAIX<br />
Tel.: +33 (0)3 20 99 36 36<br />
www.brice.fr<br />
contact@brice.fr<br />
Aubert France<br />
4, rue de la Ferme - BP<br />
30130<br />
F - 68705 Cernay<br />
aubert.contact@aubert.fr<br />
www.aubert.fr<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Product range: ladies’,<br />
men’s, childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
high price level<br />
Number of outlets: 229<br />
shops (38 in France)<br />
Product range:<br />
womenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid-price level<br />
Number of outlets: 350<br />
shops, of which more than<br />
100 abroad and 75 franchising<br />
partners + mail order<br />
Product range:<br />
ladies’, menswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid-price level<br />
Number of outlets: 125<br />
shops + 90 franchising<br />
partners<br />
Product range:<br />
menswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid-price level<br />
Number of outlets: 220<br />
Product range:<br />
babies’ wear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid-price level<br />
Number of outlets: more<br />
than 200 shops (in Europe)<br />
+ mail order<br />
Infinitif<br />
26, rue du Caire<br />
F - 75002 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 45 08 15 29<br />
www.infinitif.com<br />
info@infinitif.com<br />
Kookai<br />
45, avenue Victor Hugo<br />
93534 Saint Denis la Plaine<br />
Cedex<br />
Tel.: +33 – 399 292 994<br />
www.kookai.fr<br />
serviceclient.kookai@mixcommerce.com<br />
La Halle aux Vêtements<br />
26, rue de Flandres<br />
F - 75019 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 533 50 425<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 533 50 480<br />
contact@contact-lahalle.com<br />
www.lahalle.com<br />
Oliver Grant Diffusion<br />
74, rue Elysée Reclus<br />
F - 69150 Décibes Cedex<br />
Tel.: +33 – 472 – 81 25 60<br />
Fax: +33 – 472 – 81 25 61<br />
contact@olivergrant.com<br />
www.olivergrant.com<br />
Promod – Centrale d’Achat<br />
Chemin du Verseau<br />
F - 59847 Marcq en Baroeul<br />
Tel.: +33 – 3 – 204 57 551<br />
Fax: +33 – 3 – 204 57 454<br />
contact@promod.fr<br />
www.promod.fr<br />
Product range:<br />
womenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid- to high price level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
10 in F + 400 franchising<br />
partners<br />
Product range:<br />
womenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid-price level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
30 outlets + 120<br />
franchise partners + 320<br />
franchise partners abroad<br />
Note: belongs to the former<br />
André Group, Paris<br />
Product range: ladies’,<br />
men’s, childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
low to mid-price level<br />
Number of outlets: 480<br />
Note: belongs to the former<br />
André Group, Paris<br />
Product range:<br />
womenswear, menswear,<br />
sportswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid- to high pricelevel<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
32 shops,<br />
3 franchising Partners<br />
Product range:<br />
womenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
low price level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
203 shops in France
Clothing Chain Stores<br />
Tartine-Et-Chocolat.Com<br />
Bebeo Sa<br />
Parc des Docks de Saint-<br />
Ouen,<br />
Lot 567 - Portes B et C<br />
50, rue Ardoin<br />
F - 93400 ST OUEN 1 –<br />
4562339<br />
www.tartine-et-chocolat.com<br />
Tati Sa<br />
81, rue Cartier Bresson<br />
F - 93697 Pantin Cedex<br />
tati_contact@agora-distribution.com<br />
www.tati.fr<br />
Groupe Zannier<br />
Head Office<br />
6 bis, rue Gabriel Laumain<br />
F - 75010 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 44 83 45 45<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 44 83 45 30<br />
jfrousseau@groupezannier.fr<br />
www.groupezannier.fr<br />
Product range:<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid-price level<br />
Number of outlets: 3 shops,<br />
15 franchising partners<br />
Product range:<br />
all kinds of clothing<br />
Price segment:<br />
low price level<br />
Number of outlets: 60<br />
(of which 20 are for marrige<br />
clothing) and 2 (in Poland<br />
& Spain)<br />
Product range:<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid-price level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
270 outlets<br />
Note: own brands like Trios<br />
Pommes,<br />
Hawai – 60% of the clothing<br />
is sourced<br />
from outside<br />
Jeans- and Sportswear<br />
Chausport<br />
Belongs to Société Spodis<br />
96 rue du Pont Rompu<br />
F-5920 Chausport Tourcoing<br />
T: +33 -3- 59 36 02 86<br />
service-client@chausport.fr<br />
www.chausport.com<br />
Decathlon-Sport<br />
4, Boulevard de Mons<br />
F - 59650 Villeneuve d’Asqu<br />
Tel.: +33 – 3 – 203 350 00<br />
Fax: +33 – 3 – 203 350 01<br />
contact@decathlon.com<br />
www.decathlon.com<br />
Decouverte Vêtements<br />
Cloup Diffusion CD Textile<br />
28, rue Maillot<br />
F – 81100 Castres<br />
Tel.: +33 – 5 63 59 24 39<br />
Fax: +33 – 5 63 59 31 43<br />
cdtextile@aol.com<br />
www.creatives-decouverte.com<br />
ITM Entreprises S.A.<br />
24 rue Auguste Chadrieres<br />
F-65737 Paris Cedex 5<br />
Tel. : +33 - 1 45 33 74 17<br />
Fax : +33 - 1 45 33 39 13<br />
www.itmentreprises.fr<br />
Lasserre (modern cottage)<br />
20, chemin de Laporte<br />
F - 31300 Toulouse<br />
Tel.: +33 – 561 – 49 13 13<br />
Fax: +33 – 561 – 49 98 48<br />
enquiries@lasserre.co.uk<br />
NAF NAF SAS<br />
6-10, Boulevard Foch<br />
F - 93807 Epinay sur Seine<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4813 8888<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4813 8850<br />
serviceclients@nafnaf.fr<br />
direction.internationale@<br />
nafnaf.fr<br />
dircom@nafnaf.fr<br />
www.nafnaf-sa.com<br />
Product range: Casual<br />
wear and active sportswear,<br />
sports articles<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid-price level<br />
Number of outlets: 81<br />
Product range:<br />
Casual wear and<br />
active sportswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid-price level<br />
Number of outlets: 220,<br />
belongs to Auchan<br />
Product range:<br />
Womenswear and<br />
sportswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid-price level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
10 + 45 franchise<br />
partners (Brands: Cache<br />
Cache, Caroll, Old River)<br />
Product range: all kinds of<br />
clothing incl. sportswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
lower price level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
163 shops ‘Vetimarché’<br />
Product range: sportswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid-price level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
40 + 35 franchise partners<br />
Product range:<br />
womenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid- to high price level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
142 in France<br />
(over 400 worldwide, in<br />
over 40 countries)<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 27
Department stores<br />
28<br />
Au Bon Marche (ABM)<br />
24, rue des Sèvres<br />
F – 75007 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 - 1 – 44 39 80 00<br />
Fax: +33 - 1 – 44 39 81 19<br />
www.lebonmarche.fr<br />
Galeries Lafayette<br />
40, Boulevard Haussmann<br />
F - 75009 Paris Cedex 07<br />
Tel.: +33 – 14 – 878 25 19<br />
Fax: +33 – 14 – 282 80 23<br />
www.galerieslafayette.fr<br />
www.groupegalerieslafayette.fr<br />
Nouvelles Galeries Réunis<br />
66, rue des Archives<br />
F - 75150 Paris Cedex<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 427 48 212<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 427 46 652<br />
Printemps<br />
102, rue des Provence<br />
F - 75009 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 42855000<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 42823600<br />
17 shops + related shops<br />
www.printemps.com<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Product range:<br />
all kinds of clothing<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid-price level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
approx. 150<br />
Note: textile share app.<br />
49% - 1’500 employees -<br />
mail-order business<br />
Product range:<br />
womenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
high price level<br />
Number of outlets: 130<br />
shops in France and more<br />
in other countries<br />
Product range:<br />
all kinds of clothing<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid-price level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
287 shops<br />
Note: belongs to Galeries<br />
Lafayette<br />
Group – textile share in<br />
assortment 25% - app.<br />
25’000 employees<br />
Product range:<br />
all kinds of clothing<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid-price level<br />
Number of outlets: 20<br />
Mail Order Companies (product range: generally all kinds of<br />
clothing, price segment: low to middle)<br />
Cyrillus (Redcats)<br />
Avenue Amsterdam<br />
F - 59910 Bondues<br />
Tel.: +33 – 3 – 209 9330<br />
Fax: +33 – 3 – 209 9332<br />
Products: ladies’, men’s,<br />
children’s wear, Mailorder +<br />
25 shops also in B, CH and<br />
www.cyrillus.fr<br />
La Blanche Porte<br />
22, rue de la Blanche<br />
F - 59200 Tourcoing<br />
Tel.: +33 – 3 – 20282028<br />
Fax: +33 – 3 – 20282029<br />
www.lablancheporte.fr<br />
Maison de Valerie<br />
ZI, rue Jacquart<br />
F - 41350 Vineuil<br />
Tel.: +33 – 2 – 54425254<br />
Fax: +33 – 2 – 54815053<br />
www.lamaisondevalerie.fr<br />
Trois Suisses International<br />
4, place de la République<br />
F - 59962 Croix<br />
Tel.: +33 – 3 – 20203062<br />
Fax: +33 – 3 – 20720406<br />
www.3suisses.fr<br />
www.3suissesinternational.com<br />
Good Life<br />
33, rue de l’Assomption<br />
F - 75016 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 45245650<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 45245599<br />
Products: ladies’, men’s<br />
wear Mailorder + retail<br />
www.goodlife.fr<br />
La Redoute a Roubaix<br />
S.A.<br />
(Redcats)<br />
57, rue Blanchemaille<br />
F - 59100 Roubaix<br />
Tel.: +33 – 3 – 206 96 000<br />
Fax: +33 – 3 – 202 40 337<br />
www.redcats.com<br />
Neckermann Sarl<br />
5, rue du Château<br />
d’Angleterre<br />
F - 67300 Schiltigheim<br />
Tel. +33 – 3 – 88191010<br />
Fax: +33 – 3 – 88191030<br />
Note: all kinds of clothing<br />
– 260 employees – textile<br />
share 75%<br />
www.neckermann.fr
Super- and hypermarkets<br />
Auchan<br />
Rue de la Recherche 200<br />
F - 59650 Villeneuve-d’Asqu<br />
Tel.: +33 - 320 – 431212<br />
Fax: +33 – 320 – 436400<br />
Carrefour SA<br />
ZAC Saint-Guénault<br />
BP 75<br />
F - 91002 Evry Cedex<br />
Tel.: +33 – 360 – 913737<br />
Fax: +33 – 360 – 794498<br />
www.carrefour.com<br />
Casino-Groupe<br />
24, rue de la Montat<br />
F - 42004 Saint-Etienne<br />
Tel.: +33 – 477 – 454256<br />
Fax: +33 – 477 – 454365<br />
Intermarché<br />
1, rue du Chemin Blanc<br />
F - 91160 Longjumeau<br />
Tel.: +33 – 164 – 545500<br />
Fax: +33 – 164 – 545190<br />
E. Leclerc<br />
52, rue Camille Desmoulins<br />
F - 92451 Issy Les Moulineaux<br />
Tel.: +33 – 146 – 625200<br />
Fax: +33 – 146 – 629600<br />
www.e-leclerc.com<br />
Promodes<br />
Z.I. route de Paris<br />
F - 14127 Mondeville Cedex<br />
Tel.: +33 – 231 – 706000<br />
Fax: +33 – 231 – 706000<br />
Product range: all products<br />
Price segment: mid-price<br />
level<br />
Number of outlets: 14 countries,<br />
294<br />
hypermarkets, 588 supermarkets<br />
Product range: all products<br />
Price segment: mid-price<br />
level<br />
Number of outlets: 215<br />
hypermarkets<br />
Product range: all products<br />
Price segment: mid-price<br />
level<br />
More than 6000 outlets (not<br />
all selling<br />
clothing)<br />
Product range: all products<br />
Price segment: mid-price<br />
level<br />
Number of outlets: approx.<br />
75<br />
Product range: all products<br />
Price segment: mid-price<br />
level<br />
Product range: all products<br />
Price segment: mid-price<br />
level<br />
Manufacturers / importers and wholesalers / importers<br />
Adolphe Lafont SA<br />
320, rue Georges Foulc<br />
F - 69665 Villefranche sur Saone<br />
Tel.: +33 – 474 – 62 68 68<br />
Fax: +33 – 474 – 62 23 99<br />
Chipie International<br />
11, avenue du Général Leclerc<br />
F - 11003 Carcassonne Cedex<br />
Tel.: +33 – 468 10 54 54<br />
Fax: +33 – 468 10 54 55<br />
Catimini SA<br />
94, rue Choletaise<br />
F - 49 – 450 St. Macaire-en-<br />
Mauges<br />
Tel.: +33 – 241 – 71 41 41<br />
Fax: +33 – 241 – 71 41 32<br />
Chouette Sportswear<br />
216, rue St. Denis<br />
F - 75002 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 42 36 39 50<br />
Fax: +33 – 1- 42 36 4 554<br />
Class Affaire<br />
67, rue de Sedaine<br />
F - 75011 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 48 06 46 06<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 48 06 46 92<br />
Coup de Coeur<br />
6, rue de Bachaumont<br />
F - 75002 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 448 28 500<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 448 28 501<br />
Eden Park<br />
9, av. Hoche<br />
F - 75008 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 538 90 010<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 495 30 697<br />
Products: ladies’, men’s<br />
wear, professional wear,<br />
manufacturer and<br />
wholesaler<br />
Products: ladies’,<br />
men’s, children’s wear,<br />
Manufacturer of sportswear,<br />
leisure wear,<br />
35 own shops – brand<br />
‘Chipie’- high price level<br />
www.chipie.tm.fr<br />
Product: children’s wear<br />
and maternity wear<br />
Outlets: 95 shops in<br />
France<br />
Products:<br />
ladies’ wear, sportswear.<br />
Manufacturer<br />
Products:<br />
ladies’, menswear<br />
Manufacturer + 37 shops<br />
Product: womenswear<br />
Manufacturer + 10 shops<br />
Product: menswear<br />
Manufacturer + 7 shops,<br />
15 franchising<br />
partners<br />
www.eden-park.tm.fr<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 29
Buying associations<br />
30<br />
Fusalp (Creations) SA<br />
114, avenue de France<br />
F - 74000 Annecy<br />
Tel.: +33 – 450 – 238888<br />
Fax: +33 – 450 – 238899<br />
Disco SA<br />
18 – 20, avenue Gustave Ferrie<br />
Zone Industrielle, BP 926<br />
F - 49309 Cholet<br />
Tel.: +33 – 241 – 714 452<br />
Fax: +33 – 241 – 714399<br />
Sagam SA<br />
4, allée Verte<br />
F - 75011 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 –143577748<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 143574658<br />
Promodes<br />
9, rue Close Famille/B.P. 19<br />
F - 78240 Chambourcy<br />
Tel.: +33 – 139 – 793944<br />
Fax: +33 – 139 – 794662<br />
Sport Europe Distribution<br />
S.E.D.<br />
10, rue d’Arcelle<br />
F - 38600 Fontaine<br />
Tel.: +33 – 4 – 76859276<br />
Fax: +33 – 4 – 76531067<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Manufacturer jeans- and<br />
sportswear<br />
www.catimini.com<br />
Buying for app. 4,000<br />
retailers - approximately<br />
1.5 billion € turn-over p.a.<br />
Product: childrenswear<br />
and maternity dresses –<br />
226 members<br />
Buying association for<br />
Discounters,<br />
buying via C.I.M.<br />
Product: sportswear
3. Germany.<br />
3.1 General economic situation.<br />
The German economy over the last year collapsed. The gross<br />
domestic product in Germany decreased in 2009 compared to the<br />
previous year by a full 5% decline in real gross domestic product<br />
(GDP). Thus, the recession was more than five times as strong as<br />
in the previously largest decline in 1975 following the oil crisis. At<br />
that time, a decrease of 0.9% was recorded. In 2008, the German<br />
economy had grown by 1.3% a year earlier by 2.5%.<br />
Reason for the severe recession was the slump in exports and<br />
investment. Exports collapsed by 14.7%, while businesses spend<br />
20.0% less in machinery, vehicles and other capital goods. The<br />
construction spending fell by 0.7%. On the other hand private<br />
consumption went up by 0.4%; because the prices barely rose and<br />
the German government introduced the car scrap scheme. The<br />
government consumption grew by 2.7%.<br />
In the second quarter of 2009, the German economy grew for the<br />
first time since the beginning of 2008 - by 0.4% over the previous<br />
quarter. In the third quarter thanks to strong investment, fiscal<br />
stimulus programs and the continuing increase in exports the GDP<br />
grew by 0.7%.<br />
For 2010, the federal government expects a growth of about 1.5%.<br />
Unlike in previous recessions, the labour market remained<br />
relatively stable: It is estimated that the number of unemployed<br />
will rise in 2010 by about 450,000 compared to the 2008 annual<br />
average. However, this figure remains well below the 1.5 million<br />
additional jobs that were created during the years 2006 to 2008.<br />
3.2 The market for outerwear.<br />
3.2.1 Market size<br />
Germany still represents the largest single market within the EU,<br />
with an estimated total sales volume in clothing of 58.4 billion €<br />
in 2008 (Statistics BTE Cologne 2009, amounts at retail prices<br />
including VAT), this represents an increase of 1.0 % to 2007.<br />
The outerwear clothing sales volume was 50.3 billion € in 2008<br />
(down from € 50.9 billion in 2007), this corresponds to an average<br />
spending per person of € 611 (down from € 618 in 2007) per<br />
annum (EU average in 2008 was € 590 per annum). For the last 3<br />
years, German households spent a constant average of 4.4% of<br />
their disposable income on clothing.<br />
Several factors resulted in the stagnation of expenditure on<br />
clothing, like:<br />
• Decreasing population figures<br />
• Changing consumer expectations<br />
• Growing imports from low-cost countries<br />
3.2.2 Market characteristics<br />
In 2009, clothing price rose by 2.4% and the average outerwear<br />
spending per person reached € 611 in 2008, which was higher<br />
than the EU average of € 590.<br />
The present situation of the outerwear market in Germany can be<br />
characterised by the following brief statements:<br />
Clothing items from the outerwear segment can be characterised<br />
by a permanent price decrease. The main reason for this is<br />
the production of garments from low-wage countries. Product<br />
imitation has become easier through global production, easy<br />
communication by Internet / e-mail and liberalised trade.<br />
Renowned market research institutes have stated that the ‘middle<br />
market segment’, (which is characterised by quality consciousness<br />
and ‘brand orientation’) has become much smaller in recent years.<br />
The outerwear and clothing market is moving in two directions:<br />
(a) value/price and (b) trend/fashion, whilst the middle segment is<br />
decreasing.<br />
German consumers are well-known for their price consciousness,<br />
the share of private label merchandise in the outerwear market<br />
being higher than in other major EU countries. Influences of the<br />
media (magazines, TV and Internet) make consumers more<br />
conscious about the latest fashion trends and prices, so they are<br />
better informed to make a choice than before.<br />
Especially the men’s wear market is very dynamic due to an<br />
increasing number of fashion-conscious men. Spin-offs from adult<br />
brands and extensive marketing led to good results in children’s<br />
and teenage clothing from trendy brands and sports labels.<br />
However, the market for children’s outerwear has been negatively<br />
affected by the declining birth rate. Babies’ wear and small sizes<br />
in children clothes are decreasing, due to the popularity of second<br />
hand clothes and by receiving used clothes from friends and<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 31
family. The German population is becoming oversized, so that<br />
demand for clothes for the full figured man or woman is high and<br />
increasing. Many companies started collections for larger sized<br />
clothing.<br />
3.2.3 Demographic characteristics<br />
Figure 3 shows that the major population segment by age group is<br />
between 40 and 44 years of age (approximately 7.5 million – male<br />
and female), followed by those in the 35-39 bracket (approximately<br />
7 million people). In other words, Germans in their early forties<br />
represent the largest target group (in numbers only).<br />
The younger generation under 25 is comparatively small, e.g. the<br />
age group between 20 and 24 represents only approx. 4.5 million<br />
Germans (5.5% of the whole population). The smallest potential<br />
‘target group’, apart from those over 70, is the segment under 10<br />
years of age. The consequences of this for clothing manufacturers<br />
from foreign countries are evident.<br />
Figure 3: Age structure of German population by gender, 2008<br />
32<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
10 0 +<br />
9 5 - 9 9<br />
9 0 - 9 4<br />
8 5 - 9 0<br />
8 0 - 8 5<br />
75 -79<br />
70 -74<br />
6 5 - 6 9<br />
6 0 - 6 4<br />
5 5 - 59<br />
50 - 5 4<br />
4 5 - 49<br />
4 0 - 4 4<br />
3 5 - 3 9<br />
3 0 - 3 4<br />
25 -29<br />
20 -24<br />
15 -19<br />
10 -14<br />
5 - 9<br />
0 - 4<br />
male female<br />
4,0 3,5 3,0 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5 3,0 3,5 4,0<br />
Source: U.S. Census Bureau, International Data Base<br />
Population in millions<br />
The size and age structure of the population is one of the basic<br />
determinants of how much will be spent on outerwear.<br />
The German population is decreasing at a very slow pace from<br />
82.5 million in 2003 to 82.3 million in 2007 and 82.0 million end of<br />
2008. It is projected to decrease to 81.2 million by 2015.<br />
The following positive trends influence the market for outerwear:<br />
The older people amongst the aging population tend to spend<br />
more on comfortable clothing, while outdoor activities are<br />
becoming more and more popular among an important number of<br />
active seniors.<br />
Younger consumers are becoming more and more interested in<br />
fashion trends.<br />
The following negative trends influence the market for outerwear:<br />
The German birth rate is projected to decrease over the next<br />
years; this will affect the growth of the babies’ wear market.
3.2.4 Retail sales by product category<br />
Table 18 shows that the overall outerwear turnover increased<br />
by 4.1% from 2007 to the 1st quarter 2009. This is a good result<br />
compared to the high downturn of -13.4% between 2002 and the<br />
1st quarter 2005.<br />
The total turnover for men’s wear (6.1%) performed by 1% better<br />
than women’s wear (5.1%). Children’s wear decreased by 1%<br />
in total turnover; this reflects the declining birth-rate and the<br />
popularity of second hand clothes and used clothes received from<br />
friends and family.<br />
There are several ways of segmenting the clothing market. Table<br />
18 provides an overview of the turnover development in the major<br />
product segments, in percentages, covering the main items of<br />
women’s, men’s and children’s outerwear analysed by this survey.<br />
Table 18: <strong>Outerwear</strong> turnover development in % by gender and<br />
product categories<br />
2007 2008 1st Q.<br />
2009<br />
Women’s wear 3 1 1<br />
coats -4 0 -7<br />
suits -4 2 -5<br />
jackets/blazers -1 1 4<br />
dresses 12 3 7<br />
skirts -6 -22 -10<br />
trousers 3 -1 -2<br />
Jeans wear 3 5 4<br />
blouses 10 -2 -3<br />
Men’s wear 3 2 1<br />
coats 3 2 -1<br />
suits 2 2 2<br />
blazers 5 -5 -6<br />
jackets 5 5 3<br />
trousers 3 -2 -4<br />
Jeans wear 6 3 3<br />
Children’s wear 2 -1 -2<br />
Textiles total 2 1 1<br />
Source: BTE Cologne, 2009<br />
3.2.5 Consumer behaviour<br />
The latest observations on consumer behaviour based on market<br />
research for this marketing handbook show that consumer of<br />
2009:<br />
• react very noticeably to economic changes and moods<br />
• tend to buy less since all wardrobes are full and basic needs can<br />
be fulfilled less expensively<br />
• are highly sensitive to price the former belief that ‘cheap things’<br />
are bad and expensive is good, no longer applies<br />
• show a clear trend towards shopping at textile discounters<br />
• Significant fashion impulse does not exist any more. If everything<br />
is acceptable, then so does the outfit from last year.<br />
3.2.5.1 Consumer preferences<br />
There have been tremendous shifts in consumer preferences with<br />
regard to the most popular shops in recent years. Market leaders<br />
confirm that this development corresponds directly to more unpredictable<br />
consumer buying patterns towards much cheaper goods,<br />
closer to the actual demand (not in advance) and in shops with<br />
more ‘event character’.<br />
A survey of the clothing market segment shows that many Germans<br />
buy from clothing multiples (31%). Department stores lost<br />
1% compared to 2004 to 11% in 2007 are has been overtook by<br />
home shopping companies (13%).<br />
Table 19 shows the trends in various retail channels between 2003<br />
and 2007. Compared to its 28% market share in 2000, independent<br />
retailers constantly continue loosing market share from 2003<br />
to 2007.<br />
Table 19: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]<br />
2003 2005 2007<br />
Specialists 55 55 54<br />
Independent retailers 26 25 23<br />
Clothing multiples* 29 30 31<br />
Non-specialists 45 45 46<br />
Department/variety stores 13 12 11<br />
Home shopping companies 13 12 13<br />
Hyper- and supermarkets 5 6 7<br />
Sports stores 4 5 5<br />
Other 10 10 10<br />
Total 100 100 100<br />
Source: CBI and BTE – Note: *including discounters<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 33
Following the 2008 communication analysis report published by the<br />
Brigitte magazine, the 5 most preferred clothing retailers among all<br />
female consumers between the ages of 14 and 64 years are;<br />
1) C&A<br />
2) H&M<br />
3) Galeria Kaufhof<br />
4) Karstadt<br />
5) Esprit<br />
Looking at consumer patterns, market research by Intermedia<br />
in 2009 on behalf of Burda Verlag, Hamburg shows interesting<br />
results, summarised in Table 20. The key fact is that 22.7 % of women<br />
are interested in the latest fashion trends and 19.4 % of men<br />
have the same interest.<br />
Table 20: Consumer patterns with regard to interest in fashion,<br />
purchase timing, brand awareness and bargains by gender,<br />
2009 [%]<br />
Women Men<br />
Interest in fashion<br />
I am interested<br />
in the latest fashion trends<br />
22.7 19.4<br />
I often talk about fashion<br />
Purchase timing<br />
17.9 13.8<br />
I often buy fashion<br />
at the beginning of the season,<br />
when the new range comes<br />
into the shops<br />
10.4 11.2<br />
I often buy fashion at<br />
the end of the season,<br />
when prices have already been<br />
reduced in many places<br />
Brand Awareness and Bargains<br />
43.5 39.8<br />
I am very concerned about<br />
buying the right vvvbrand<br />
13.7 15.9<br />
I often buy special offers 51.1 45.2<br />
Source: Typologie der Wünsche, Intermedia-Burda, 2009<br />
34<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
3.2.5.2 Consumer expenditure<br />
The private household consumption increased by 0.3% to € 1’341<br />
billion in 2009.<br />
The latest detailed analysis of expenditure structures of German<br />
households by the German Federal Statistical Office in 2009<br />
shows that out of € 100, € 4.40 was spent on clothing. Single<br />
males have a relatively higher disposable income but save most<br />
on textiles and clothing. Couples with kids spend the most on<br />
textiles. The self-employed and employees tend to spend the most<br />
on clothing.<br />
Table 22 gives an overview of the share of the clothing segments<br />
in German household expenditure. A general tendency is for consumers<br />
to spend less on clothing, especially since the beginning<br />
of 2002 and the introduction of the Euro. Also a large part of their<br />
income is spent on electronic devices, services, travel, education,<br />
fitness / health and rent for housing.<br />
A different analysis of consumer expenditure by the CBI in 2009<br />
showed that the per capita consumption for clothing amounted to<br />
€ 611 per year. Table 21 shows the annual consumption in different<br />
product groups. A clear fact is that the per capita consumption<br />
has decreased in value in recent years, as the turnover in the<br />
clothing market has reduced, whilst the population has increased.<br />
Table 21: Expenditures on outerwear per capita for outerwear,<br />
2009 [€/year]<br />
Total (average)<br />
of which:<br />
611<br />
Women’s outerwear 786<br />
Men’s outerwear 425<br />
Children’s outerwear 623<br />
Source: Gherzi estimation, CBI 2009<br />
The share of clothing expenditure in all household expenses has<br />
permanently fallen. According to Table 22, published by the BTE<br />
(German Association of Textile Retailers), German consumers<br />
only spend in 2008 an average of 4.4 % of their purchases on<br />
fashion. Back in 1997 German households used to spend 5.8 % of<br />
their disposable income on clothing.
Table 22: Household spending on clothing [% of total spending]<br />
2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008<br />
4.82 4.61 4.42 4.42 4.43 4.43 4.39<br />
Source: German Federal Statistical Office<br />
Table 23: Average retail prices by product categories<br />
2004 2008 CAGR<br />
2004-2008*<br />
Suit 312 349 2.84%<br />
Coat 216 246 3.30%<br />
Sports jacket 134 174 6.75%<br />
Trousers (classic) 89 110 5.44%<br />
Trousers (leisure) 73 90 5.37%<br />
Jeans 76 84 2.53%<br />
Sweatshirt 71 79 2.71%<br />
Jacket 145 201 8.51%<br />
Leather jacket 323 350 2.03%<br />
Shirt 44 50 3.25%<br />
Polo shirt 28 33 4.19%<br />
Tie 30 37 5.38%<br />
Source: BTE Cologne 2009 – Note: *Compound Annual Growth Rate<br />
3.2.6 Price developments of clothing<br />
Between 2007 and the first half of 2009, the prices for all product<br />
segments in the clothing sector have increased in a lower percentage<br />
as the total cost of living. For more details, see Table 24<br />
Table 24: Clothing price index relative to national consumer price<br />
index (2007-2009).<br />
Index: 2005 = 100 2007 2008 1st half 2009<br />
Price index clothing 100.7 101.4 102.8<br />
Price index total cost of living 103.9 106.6 107.7<br />
Source: BTE Cologne 2009 – Note: Based on all private households in Germany<br />
3.3 Imports.<br />
3.3.1 Total imports<br />
Table 25 gives an overview of import volume in terms of value and<br />
volume of the respective product groups into Germany. The value<br />
of total imports has grown by only 1.7% from 2006 to 2008. Total<br />
extra European imports grew by 7.5% in the same time period.<br />
The total European import share fell from 36.4% in 2006 to 32.8%<br />
in 2008.<br />
In general, imports from non EU countries have increased in most<br />
product segments, thus indicating more sales opportunities for<br />
manufacturers abroad (including, to a large extent, developing<br />
countries).<br />
The two main knitted product groups imported where t-shirts,<br />
singlet (61.09) and jersey, pullovers, etc. (61.10). From 2006 to<br />
2008 the 61.09 product group had a slight decline of 2.1% and<br />
61.10 had only an insignificant growth of under 1%. Men shirt<br />
(61.05) and women suits (61.04) had the highest growth with<br />
28.3% (61.05) and 31.4% (61.04) from 2006 to 2008. The share of<br />
European imports of knitted outerwear fell from 32.7% in 2006 to<br />
30.6% in 2008.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 35
Table 25: Imports of knitted outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008<br />
36<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
2006 2007 2008<br />
Tons 1‘000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />
For men or boys<br />
Coats, raincoats, anoraks<br />
etc. (61.01)<br />
1‘861 41‘746 2’276 44’170 2’477 43’823<br />
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers,<br />
shorts etc. (61.03)<br />
7’545 89’433 9’829 93’195 10’455 84’631<br />
Shirts (61.05) 18’141 303’649 22’926 368’153 24’658 389’701<br />
Sub Total 27’546 434’828 35’031 505’518 37’590 518’155<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
For women or girls<br />
21’425 274’296 28’914 331’538 32’643 365’237<br />
Coats, raincoats, anoraks<br />
etc. (61.02)<br />
12’165 193’524 12’519 198’127 15’943 243’406<br />
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers,<br />
dresses, skirts etc.<br />
(61.04)<br />
40’970 614’055 56’711 793’274 61’496 806’679<br />
Blouses and shirts (61.06) 17’673 402’579 20’975 462’999 21’695 469’191<br />
Sub Total 70’808 1’210’158 90’204 1’454’400 99’135 1’519’275<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
For both genders<br />
56’869 796’621 75’257 974’985 86’395 1’082’953<br />
T-shirts, singlets etc.<br />
(61.09)<br />
172’574 2’560’691 180’682 2’708’509 169’890 2’505’292<br />
Jersey, pullovers, cardigans,<br />
waistcoats, etc.<br />
(61.10)<br />
158’491 2’870’355 143’219 2’660’808 157’014 2’880’060<br />
Babies’ garments (61.11) 14’503 203’398 15’776 213’803 15’839 217’708<br />
Garments rubberised, impregnated,<br />
etc. (61.13)<br />
7’545 89’433 9’829 93’195 10’455 84’631<br />
Gloves, mittens and mitts<br />
(61.16)<br />
12’135 122’208 14’824 134’804 16’540 146’418<br />
Other made-up clothing<br />
accessories (61.17)<br />
6’992 113’302 6’974 107’826 7’230 112’015<br />
Sub Total 372’238 5’959’386 371’304 5’918’945 376’967 5’946’124<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
Active Sportswear<br />
292’830 4’077’694 290’031 3’991’723 302’779 4’166’553<br />
Track suits, ski suits and<br />
swimwear (61.12)<br />
12’356 225’973 12’916 239’550 11’573 225’180<br />
Special garments for professional<br />
sporting or other<br />
purposes (61.14)<br />
6’163 152’003 7’676 169’399 7’886 169’746<br />
Sub Total 18’519 377’976 20’593 408’949 19’459 394’926<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 13’942 226’662 15’414 241’585 14’244 220’331<br />
TOTAL 489’111 7’982’349 517’132 8’287’811 533’151 8’378’480<br />
TOTAL EXTRA EU<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
385’065 5’375’273 409’616 5’539’830 436’060 5’835’073
As shown in table 26 the two main woven product groups imported<br />
where suits, jackets, etc. for women (62.04) and suits, jackets<br />
etc. for men (62.03). From 2006 to 2008 the 62.04 product group<br />
had a value decline of 12.1% and 62.03 had an increase of 4.8%.<br />
Shawls, scarves, etc. (62.14) and coats, anoraks, etc. for women<br />
Table 26: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008<br />
(62.02) had the highest growth with 22.2% (62.14) and 13.9%<br />
(62.14) from 2006 to 2008. The share of European imports of<br />
woven outerwear fell from 39.2% in 2006 to 34.7% in 2008. Total<br />
imports of woven outerwear fell by 0.7% in the same time period<br />
2006 2007 2008<br />
Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />
For men or boys<br />
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.01) 34’577 587’274 39’208 606’213 39’657 614’840<br />
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts, etc.<br />
(62.03)<br />
148’688 2’836’842 159’554 2’946’346 160’250 2’973’935<br />
Shirts (62.05) 42’370 812’348 47’678 847’702 43’024 807’638<br />
Sub Total 225’634 4’236’464 246’440 4’400’261 242’931 4’396’412<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
For women or girls<br />
166’946 2’409’221 192’041 2’660’920 198’140 2’836’084<br />
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.02) 56’211 923’077 62’019 961’399 62’025 1’050’988<br />
Suits, jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers, etc<br />
(62.04)<br />
159’685 3’463’442 159’769 3’442’706 143’015 3’042’514<br />
Blouses and shirts (62.06) 23’293 740’991 25’921 818’891 24’448 800’524<br />
Sub Total 239’189 5’127’510 247’708 5’222’995 229’488 4’894’026<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
For both genders<br />
183’328 3’209’334 196’706 3’314’724 184’732 3’188’785<br />
Babies garments (62.09) 6’964 99’378 6’834 100’099 6’624 96’955<br />
Others incl. Impregnated (62.10) 28’780 401’021 29’938 397’227 28’751 395’971<br />
Shawls, scarves, mufflers, etc. (62.14) 4’490 103’442 3’992 99’108 5’853 126’385<br />
Ties, bow ties and cravats (62.15) 1’180 57’726 1’335 62’186 1’434 59’693<br />
Gloves, mittens and mitts (62.16) 3’989 46’028 4’094 37’201 3’575 42’596<br />
Other made-up clothing accessoires (62.17) 4’460 61’754 4’533 64’155 3’878 54’455<br />
Sub Total 49’863 769’348 50’727 759’976 50’113 776’054<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
Active Sportswear<br />
39’177 526’678 40’693 518’993 40’649 538’155<br />
Track suits, ski suits (62.11) 25’245 366’869 25’960 375’094 24’845 355’702<br />
Sub Total 25’245 366’869 25’960 375’094 24’845 355’702<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 19’791 237’536 21’137 247’387 20’666 241’101<br />
TOTAL 539’931 10’500’192 570’834 10’758’326 547’377 10’422’194<br />
TOTAL EXTRA EU 409’242 6’382’769 450’577 6’742’024 444’186 6’804’126<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 37
3.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT)<br />
A brief analysis of the OPT imports of outerwear into Germany<br />
shows that most of the top 20 OPT countries decreased OPT with<br />
Germany in 2008. Overall OPT decreased by 35% from year 2006<br />
to 2008.<br />
Sri Lanka, Vietnam and Bosnia-Herzegovina have increased their<br />
OPT activities with Germany by 59%, 53% and 43% respectively<br />
from 2006 to 2008.<br />
Table 27: Largest supplying countries of OPT outerwear, 2006-2008<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
38<br />
Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change<br />
from 2006<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
3.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear<br />
Table 28 shows the imports of finished products from major<br />
supplying countries into Germany between 2006 and 2008.<br />
Germany’s main import partners are China followed by Turkey and<br />
Bangladesh. The three leading supplying countries represent 46%<br />
of all clothing imports in 2008. Not less than 67% of all imports<br />
originate from non-EU countries.<br />
Extra European imports by Germany increased by 7.5% from<br />
2006 to 2008. Taking a closer look to the largest extra EU<br />
supplying countries of outerwear (Table 28), the ‘winners’ in terms<br />
of sales increases from 2006 to 2008 are China (+43%), Egypt<br />
(+39%) and <strong>Switzerland</strong> (+31%). The ‘losers’ are Hong Kong<br />
(-73%), Cambodia (-26%) and Myanmar (-25%)<br />
2007 [‘000 €] Change<br />
from 2007<br />
2008 [‘000 €]<br />
1 Macedonia 115’634 20% 138’538 7% 148’863<br />
2 Ukraine 185’669 -14% 160’464 -10% 144’647<br />
3 Vietnam 25’579 14% 29’129 35% 39’250<br />
4 China 33’157 24% 41’214 -5% 39’028<br />
5 Tunisia 37’956 8% 41’025 -8% 37’576<br />
6 Hong Kong 32’643 22% 39’778 -7% 37’058<br />
7 Bosnia-Herz. 25’127 35% 33’875 6% 35’891<br />
8 Croatia 25’713 14% 29’195 13% 32’955<br />
9 Indonesia 17’571 26% 22’223 3% 22’929<br />
10 Moldova 24’421 7% 26’108 -17% 21’607<br />
11 Serbia 20’065 33% 26’716 -31% 18’516<br />
12 Sri Lanka 8’786 36% 11’924 17% 14’000<br />
13 Morocco 16’176 0% 16’164 -18% 13’242<br />
14 Belarus 20’517 -43% 11’768 -13% 10’233<br />
15 Thailand 8’703 25% 10’847 -16% 9’129<br />
16 Philippines 8’470 5% 8’912 -3% 8’661<br />
17 Myanmar 10’085 -16% 8’428 -15% 7’145<br />
18 Albania 5’690 -4% 5’479 5% 5’726<br />
19 Russia 16’189 -54% 7’496 -25% 5’626<br />
20 Colombia 5’189 -33% 3’481 -4% 3’358<br />
Total 2’052’996 -33% 1’367’722 -3% 1’333’493
Table 28: Largest extra EU supplying countries of outerwear,<br />
2006-2008<br />
Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change<br />
from 2006<br />
2007 [‘000 €] Change<br />
from 2007<br />
2008 [‘000<br />
€]<br />
1 China 3’531’488 21% 4’277’658 18% 5’052’168<br />
2 Turkey 2’266’329 6% 2’406’256 -10% 2’164’774<br />
3 Bangladesh 1’322’747 -5% 1’252’179 10% 1’382’857<br />
4 India 636’947 -1% 629’546 7% 676’051<br />
5 Indonesia 379’466 -8% 350’770 9% 382’068<br />
6 Vietnam 286’205 12% 320’795 4% 332’125<br />
7 Tunisia 263’559 14% 300’974 5% 316’015<br />
8 Macedonia 250’020 13% 281’857 1% 283’411<br />
9 Pakistan 188’163 2% 191’213 -5% 182’072<br />
10 Hong Kong 649’736 -39% 396’867 -55% 178’285<br />
11 Cambodia 239’220 -28% 173’271 2% 176’215<br />
12 Ukraine 193’167 -14% 166’724 -8% 153’661<br />
13 <strong>Switzerland</strong> 117’102 43% 167’025 -8% 153’373<br />
14 Thailand 140’748 -16% 118’085 1% 119’368<br />
15 Morocco 125’567 1% 126’818 -16% 106’876<br />
16 Sri Lanka 82’690 17% 96’539 10% 106’336<br />
17 Egypt 68’938 6% 73’048 31% 95’506<br />
18 Croatia 103’687 2% 105’975 -12% 93’526<br />
19 Bosnia and Herzegovina 59’305 8% 64’257 5% 67’460<br />
20 Myanmar 82’290 -16% 68’844 -11% 61’389<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
Extra-EU 27 11’735’915 4% 12’259’693 3% 12’616’660<br />
Intra-EU 27 6’666’593 1% 6’702’980 -9% 6’105’096<br />
Total 18’402’508 3% 18’962’673 -1% 18’721’757<br />
European imports by Germany decreased by 8.4% from 2006<br />
to 2008. Taking a closer look to the largest intra EU supplying<br />
countries of outerwear (Table 29), the ‘winners’ in terms of sales<br />
increases from 2006 to 2008 are Poland (+34%), France (+13%)<br />
and Belgium (+7%). The ‘losers’ are Romania (-33%), Bulgaria<br />
(-19%) and Italy (-15%).<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 39
Table 29: Largest intra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008<br />
40<br />
Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change<br />
from 2006<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
2007 [‘000 €] Change<br />
from 2007<br />
2008 [‘000 €]<br />
1 Netherlands 977’171 10% 1’075’327 -16% 902’396<br />
2 Italy 968’719 -4% 934’172 -12% 824’799<br />
3 Poland 451’965 4% 469’121 29% 606’172<br />
4 Romania 845’030 -24% 641’298 -12% 563’918<br />
5 Belgium 375’729 6% 398’439 0% 400’277<br />
6 Denmark 420’293 2% 428’398 -8% 394’474<br />
7 France 327’427 24% 406’936 -9% 369’416<br />
8 Bulgaria 404’017 -12% 355’342 -8% 325’439<br />
9 United Kingdom 320’485 2% 327’902 -4% 315’168<br />
10 Austria 259’514 10% 285’428 -13% 247’062<br />
Intra EU 27 6’666’593 1% 6’702’980 -9% 6’105’096<br />
Extra EU 27 11’735’915 4% 12’259’693 3% 12’616’660<br />
Total 18’402’508 3% 18’962’673 -1% 18’721’757<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
3.4 Trade structure.<br />
3.4.1 Developments in the retail trade<br />
Table 30: The most important foreign-owned clothing retailers<br />
in Germany<br />
Retailer Country<br />
of origin<br />
Hennes & Mauritz Sweden 340<br />
Vögele <strong>Switzerland</strong> 326<br />
Miss Etam France 81<br />
Orsay (Mulliez Group) Germany (France) 260<br />
Pimkie (Mulliez Group) Germany (France) 170<br />
Benetton Italy 212<br />
Zara (Inditex) Spain 65<br />
Mango Spain 52<br />
M&S Mode Netherlands 62<br />
Arsana Turkey 230<br />
Zeeman Netherlands 245<br />
Source: Gherzi analysis, CBI<br />
Number of<br />
stores in<br />
Germany<br />
20 companies accounted for 50% of the German retail-clothing<br />
and textile market.<br />
The major developments in the German clothing retail structure<br />
are as follows:<br />
Market shares of specialised clothing multiples, textile discounters<br />
and non-specialists like hyper-, supermarkets, discounters, variety<br />
stores and also the coffee shop chain Tchibo, have increased in<br />
the outerwear sector. This has negatively affected specialized<br />
independents and department stores.<br />
According to BTE, the total number of German outlets with clothing<br />
in their assortment is 45’000. The number of independent clothing<br />
stores is estimated at 26’500, of which 7’000 are specialised in<br />
women’s wear, 2’000 in men’s wear, 15’000 have a broader range<br />
and the remaining part is specialised in another product group.<br />
Around 40% of the independent retailers are member of a buying<br />
corporation. In no other European country, with the exception<br />
of the Netherlands, do the buying organisations also act as<br />
independent retailers as they do in Germany. The most important<br />
buying corporations are Ardek (http://www.ardek.de) which<br />
specializes in babies’ and children's products including clothing<br />
and has 350 members with 500 outlets; and Katag-abz (http://
www.katag.net) which operates through 364 members with 1’200<br />
outlets. Other buying groups are Unitex (http://www.unitex-gmbh.<br />
de) with 500 members; Sütegro (http://www.suetegro.de) which<br />
has 130 members and is specialized in women’s wear. Sütegro<br />
became the fashion and style division of the EK-Service group.<br />
Most of the sport shops are organisations of independent retailers,<br />
many of them being organised in (international) co-operations like<br />
Intersport (1’462 outlets; http://www.intersport.com) and Sport<br />
2000 (770 members with 1’130 outlets; http://www.sport2000.de).<br />
Table 31 gives an overview of the important German chains,<br />
operating in Germany. Some remarks regarding this overview:<br />
• Orsay is owned by the French Muliez Group. Since the with<br />
drawal of Orsay from the French market, this company can be<br />
considered as German-based.<br />
• Since 1997, the European part of the Esprit business was<br />
acquired by the Hong Kong division of Esprit Holding.<br />
Headquarters of Esprit Europe is established in Germany, from<br />
which the wholesale and retail activities are managed.<br />
• The number of children’s wear chains and men’s wear chains is<br />
very limited in Germany.<br />
• Leading clothing multiple C&A sells clothing for the whole family<br />
and operates mainly in the middle of the market, but is also<br />
active in both the upper and the lower price brackets. Other<br />
C&A formula are Kids Stores and Women Stores (mostly active<br />
in Germany). The market share of C&A came under pressure,<br />
besides increasing competition from non-specialists, since the<br />
entrance and strong expansion of foreign general clothing chains<br />
like Hennes & Mauritz, Vögele and Zara.<br />
Table 31: Major German-based chains selling outerwear<br />
(2008/2009)<br />
Retail chain<br />
General<br />
Parent company Number of<br />
stores in<br />
Germany<br />
C&A C&A 303<br />
P&C P&C West and P&C Nord 88<br />
Sinn Leffers WHG 24<br />
Wöhrl Wöhrl 40<br />
K+L Ruppert K+L Ruppert 61<br />
Strauss Innovation Strauss Innovation 98<br />
Esprit<br />
Women<br />
Esprit Europe 140<br />
Bonita Mode Bonita Group 732<br />
Ulla Popken Popken Group 186<br />
Women Store C&A 17<br />
Orsay<br />
Men<br />
Mulliez Group (France) 260<br />
Pohland Pohland 12<br />
NIC<br />
Children<br />
Bonita Group 60<br />
Kids Stores<br />
Leisure<br />
C&A 105<br />
New Yorker Friedrich Knapp 299<br />
Mister Lady Western Store Beran 204<br />
Jeans Fritz<br />
Sports<br />
Schaeffer-Kuehn 191<br />
Runners Point<br />
Discounters<br />
Hannover Finanz 102<br />
Ernsting’s Family Ernsting Familie 1’350<br />
Takko Takko Holding 841<br />
KiK Tengelmann-Gruppe 2’039<br />
Adler Metro Group 107<br />
NKD Daun & Cie. 1’000<br />
Source: CBI<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 41
Textile discounters sell family clothing, sportswear, body wear<br />
and household textiles, but sometimes also other product groups.<br />
They buy in large quantities and avoid middlemen, in order to get<br />
low-priced goods in the shops quickly. All discounters mentioned<br />
increased strongly in turnover and in number of outlets in recent<br />
years; they compete, among others, with the Dutch discount chain<br />
Zeeman (239 stores in Germany).<br />
Table 32: Other outerwear selling branches in Germany<br />
Retail chain<br />
Food discounters<br />
Web site Number of stores in Germany<br />
Aldi Nord www.aldi-essen.de 2’500<br />
Aldi Süd www.aldi-sued.de 1’700<br />
Lidl www.lidl.de 2’950<br />
Netto www.netto-online.de 1’442<br />
Penny www.penny.de 2’000<br />
Plus<br />
Super- and hypermarkets<br />
www.plus.de 2’950<br />
Real www.metrogroup.de 343<br />
Kaufland/Kaufmarkt www.kaufland.de 750<br />
Tengelmann www.tengelmann.de 3’379<br />
Edeka (Spar, Netto, etc.)<br />
Non-specialized stores<br />
www.edeka.de 12’000<br />
Metro C+C www.metro-cc.de 122<br />
Fegro / Selgros www.fegro-selgros.de 44<br />
Tchibo www.tchibo.com 900<br />
Source: CBI<br />
According to CBI the actual trends are as follows:<br />
• Market conditions have become more difficult and the<br />
competitive pressure is increasing. This is due to the expansion<br />
of powerful foreign companies in the German market and<br />
market activities by companies from outside the clothing sector.<br />
On the other side, many German retail chains have expanded<br />
their activities abroad.<br />
• The non-food offer in the grocery sector is increasing in<br />
Germany. The hypermarket format, with its strong non-food<br />
component, plays an increasingly important role. However,<br />
it should be noted that these companies operate more in<br />
low-priced incidental offers than in a fixed/permanent outerwear<br />
assortment.<br />
42<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Many textiles, including knitted and woven outerwear, can increasingly<br />
be found in food discounters, super- and hypermarkets.<br />
• Ongoing expansion by many of the leading chains to develop<br />
smaller store formats, so as to create a more specialised<br />
boutique character (for instance H&M, C&A and Zara).<br />
• Stronger ranges of complementary accessories and footwear.<br />
• Clothing specialised multiples have been the largest exponents<br />
of the fast-fashion phenomenon, which has encouraged more<br />
frequent purchasing.
3.4.2 Leading retailers<br />
Table 33 gives an excellent overview of the structure and the<br />
development of the largest German textile retailers. This analysis<br />
was carried out by the renowned trade magazine Textilwirtschaft/<br />
Frankfurt on an annual basis<br />
Table 33: Major German textile retailers 2008 / 2007<br />
Position Retailer Chain Turnover 2008 [mn €] Turnover 2007 [mn €] Change [%]<br />
1 Arcandor 4’116 4’170 -1.3%<br />
2 Otto 3’480 3’406 2.2%<br />
3 C&A 2’954 2’933 0.7%<br />
4 Metro 2’539 3’077 -17.5%<br />
5 H&M 2’476 2’395 3.4%<br />
6 Tengelmann 1’568 1’498 4.7%<br />
7 P&C, Düsseldorf 1’343 1’351 -0.6%<br />
8 Aldi-Gruppe 1’071 1’100 -2.6%<br />
9 Lidl 1’029 1’050 -2.0%<br />
10 Tchibo 931 1’023 -9.0%<br />
11 Esprit 800 740 8.1%<br />
12 Ersting’s Family 676 550 22.9%<br />
13 New Yorker 622 603 3.2%<br />
14 Takko 560 566 -1.1%<br />
15 Klingel 525 536 -2.1%<br />
16 NKD 498 498 0.0%<br />
17 Adler 464 515 -9.9%<br />
18 Bonita 443 428 3.5%<br />
19 Sinn Leffers 430 474 -9.3%<br />
20 P&C, Hamburg 420 420 0.0%<br />
Source: Textilwirtschaft<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 43
3.4.3 Distribution channels<br />
The structure of the textile / clothing retail market can also be split<br />
into two major groups: “specialised retailers” and “larger forms of<br />
textile retail”. For more details, see Table 34.<br />
Table 34: Textile and clothing retail channels by market share,<br />
2006 - 2008<br />
Retail channel 2006 2007 2008<br />
General clothing retail 38.0 39.3 39.5<br />
Men clothing retail 2.6 2.6 2.7<br />
Women clothing retail 7.6 7.6 7.6<br />
Children clothing retail 0.5 0.6 0.5<br />
Others 0.2 0.2 0.2<br />
Total general clothing retail 48.9 50.3 50.5<br />
Dowry, bedding 2.2 2.2 2.3<br />
Carpet, drape 3.2 3.2 3.2<br />
Other 0.8 0.8 0.7<br />
Total general textile retail 6.2 6.2 6.2<br />
Total textile and clothing<br />
specialised retail<br />
55.1 56.5 56.7<br />
Department stores 12.2 11.9 11.7<br />
Sports shops 2.5 2.5 2.6<br />
Home shopping companies 13.5 12.8 12.9<br />
Super- and Hypermarkets 13.7 13.4 13.1<br />
Other 3.0 2.9 3.0<br />
Total non textile or clothing<br />
specialised retail<br />
44.9 43.5 43.3<br />
Grand Total 100.0 100.0 100.0<br />
Source: BTE<br />
44<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
3.4.3.1 Retailers<br />
3.4.3.1.1 General clothing retail<br />
Independent retailers do not usually buy directly from developing<br />
countries. With approximately 43'000 textile and clothing shops<br />
all over Germany, they still play an important role in the market. A<br />
high percentage of the retailers are members of buying associations<br />
that takes over certain functions from the members such as<br />
purchasing, marketing, logistics etc.<br />
The most important department stores are C&A (435)*, H&M<br />
(339)*, P&C West and Anson’s Menswear (88)* and P&C North<br />
(25)*, Sinn Leffers (47)*, K+L Ruppert (65)*, C. Vögele (326)* and<br />
Wöhrl (36)*. New Yorker with 302 outlets is the largest jeans and<br />
sportswear chain. The major women's wear multiples are BiBa<br />
(250)* and Appelrath_ Cüpper (14)*, part of the Douglas Group,<br />
Orsay from France (242)*, Bonita (800)* and Ulla Popken for large<br />
sizes (187)*. Menswear multiples are NIC (41)* (owned by Bonita)<br />
and Pohland (8)*.<br />
* number of outlets<br />
Market share: 48.9% in 2008<br />
Trend: Slightly increasing (2006 = 50.5%)<br />
3.4.3.1.2 Department stores<br />
The major department stores are Karstadt with 120 outlets (since<br />
1st December 2009 in chapter 11) and Galleria Kaufhof with 113<br />
stores, belonging to the Metro group. Galleria Kaufhof's turnover<br />
declined constantly from € 3.6 bn in 2006 to € 3.5 bn in 2008.<br />
Another example is Woolworth with 161 outlets.<br />
Market share: 11.7% in 2008<br />
Trend: Slightly decreasing (2006 = 12.2%)<br />
3.4.3.1.3 Sport shops<br />
The turnover of clothing in sports shops is influenced by the unpredictable<br />
weather, shorter product life cycles, consumer behaviour<br />
and continued cost and price pressures. In recent years sports<br />
shops have developed themselves from pure or predominant providers<br />
of winter clothing towards providers with a large range of for<br />
all weather gears, with emphasis on outdoor and lifestyle.<br />
Market share: 2.6% in 2008<br />
Trend: Slightly increasing (2006 = 2.5%)
3.4.3.1.4 Home shopping companies<br />
Quelle, one of the leading home shopping companies filed chapter<br />
11 in 2009. The Otto Group (another leading home shopping company)<br />
bought the Quelle brand. This deal still has to be approved<br />
by the FTC (Federal Trade Commission).<br />
53.3% of the total home shopping turnover in 2009 was generated<br />
by internet sales.<br />
Market share: 12.9% in 2008<br />
Trend: Slightly decreasing (2006 = 13.5%)<br />
3.4.3.1.5 Super- and hypermarkets<br />
The main super- and hypermarkets selling clothing are: Metro,<br />
Aldi, Edeka, Tengelmann, Rewe, Lidl, Tchibo, and Globus. The<br />
clothing sold in those markets is mainly restricted to clothing<br />
accessories such as socks, caps, scarves and so on, but increasingly<br />
includes T-shirts, shirts, jeans etc. Aldi and Lidl in particular<br />
offer more and more fashion products alongside their food- and<br />
non-food assortment.<br />
Market share: 13.1% in 2008<br />
Trend: Slightly decreasing (2006 = 13.7%)<br />
3.4.3.1.6 Others (FOC)<br />
Factory Outlet Centres are becoming very popular in Germany.<br />
So far 11 FOCs have been built with a total surface of 120'000<br />
m2. Further 11 FOC's with a total surface of about 120'000 m2 will<br />
soon be built.<br />
3.4.3.2 Sales intermediaries<br />
3.4.3.2.1 Clothing manufacturers<br />
Manufacturing companies play a pivotal role in the clothing<br />
distribution system in Germany. Most of the German clothing<br />
brands work in a dual way: On the one hand they buy directly from<br />
developing countries in the Far and Middle East on a full import<br />
basis (finished products). On the other hand, Germany is by far<br />
the largest European buyer of clothing on outsourcing basis (OPT<br />
business). Due to its proximity to Eastern European countries,<br />
Germany was the ‘pioneer’ country in outsourcing production in<br />
the neighbouring countries to the East. The clothing industry has<br />
been shrinking since the beginning of the nineties, to the point<br />
where now only the ‘fittest’ have survived. Larger companies such<br />
as TOM TAILOR, CARLO COLUCCI, S. OLIVER, STREET ONE<br />
and so on (also) sell through their own outlets. These brands are<br />
normally positioned in the mid- to upper market segment. The<br />
tendency towards self-retailing by clothing brands/manufacturers<br />
has increased and taken on different forms such as concessions,<br />
shop-within- the-shop, sales corners in department stores and<br />
own mono-brand shops.<br />
3.4.3.2.2 Central buying associations<br />
55% of all independent clothing retailers in Germany are members<br />
of a buying association. These figures underline the significant role<br />
of buying associations for the majority of specialised independent<br />
retailers. The buying policy is similar to that of multiple stores (buying<br />
directly or through buying agents abroad). They operate in the<br />
mid- to upper market segment. The leading associations are Katag<br />
/ abz in Bielefeld and Unitex in Neu-Ulm. Some, such as Ardek<br />
in Hofheim / Wallau specialise in children's wear, or Intersport in<br />
Munich specialising in active sports- and hardware. The German<br />
buying associations also have members from the Netherlands,<br />
Belgium, Austria and <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />
3.4.3.2.3 Sales agents<br />
Sales agents for clothing in Germany play a major role in the<br />
market, especially for the renowned clothing brands. The more<br />
reputable agents are members of the Central Association of German<br />
Sales Agents (CDH) in Cologne. They often have their own<br />
showrooms in fashion centres of major German cities such as<br />
Neuss / Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Hamburg, Munich and so on. Only<br />
strong manufacturers from non- European countries with a market<br />
oriented range and an excellent service might find the right partner<br />
in the CDH News published monthly.<br />
3.4.3.2.4 Importers / wholesalers<br />
It is estimated that there are over 1'000 importers / wholesalers<br />
for clothing in Germany. They range from very small units run by<br />
the owner, up to larger companies with more than 100 employees<br />
worldwide such as Miles, Jebsen & Jessen, Nickel etc. They often<br />
operate through their buying offices in the Far East, which take<br />
over the order and control function on the ‘sourcing spot’. The<br />
importers / wholesalers have an important role, they have excellent<br />
know-how about worldwide sourcing and supply directly to all<br />
kinds of retailers in Germany and the neighbouring countries. The<br />
most reputable importers are members of the Association of nonfood<br />
importers (VFI) in Hamburg.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 45
3.5 German fashion trade fairs.<br />
For women's wear, the main event not only for Europe but also<br />
worldwide is the CPD Fashion Fair in Düsseldorf, which is organised<br />
twice per year (February and July) by the IGEDO company.<br />
Approximately 44'000 visitors and around 1'500 international<br />
exhibitors attend per event. The fair organisers have grouped the<br />
fair in different ‘theme worlds’ (Gallery, Italian Suite, Boutique,<br />
Concept II, Modern Essentials, Decorate, Special Luxury Women's<br />
Wear, Special Big is Beautiful). For manufacturers from emerging<br />
or developing countries the so called ‘Global Fashion’ (a fair within<br />
the fair) of the CPD in Düsseldorf is generally a good choice, since<br />
many buyers from Germany, Belgium, Luxemburg, Netherlands<br />
as well as to a certain extent from Austria and <strong>Switzerland</strong> tend<br />
to visit this fair when they look for new suppliers. Leading fashion<br />
fairs have suffered from the market developments. Nevertheless,<br />
for ‘mainstream’ fashion manufacturers from developing countries,<br />
the German clothing fairs are still a very good choice (from a commercial<br />
point of view). For the active sportswear market (including<br />
Table 35: German fashion trade fairs 2010<br />
Trade fair Date <strong>Location</strong><br />
Spirit of Fashion 20. - 22.01.2010 Berlin<br />
MMC Kids Collections Kinder Mode Messe 05. - 07.02.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig<br />
Premium Order Düsseldorf 06. - 09.02.2010 Düsseldorf<br />
ISPO Winter 07. - 10.02.2010 Munich<br />
CPD incl. Global Fashion 07. - 09.02.2010 Düsseldorf<br />
MMC Mitteldeutsche Mode Messe 13. - 15.02.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig<br />
MMC Fashion Update 07. - 09.03.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig<br />
Sport Source Europe 07. - 10.02.2010 Munich<br />
Premium Order München 26. - 01.03.2010 Munich<br />
Munich Fashion Women 26. - 01.03.2010 Munich<br />
In Fashion Munich 26. - 01.03.2010 Munich<br />
Modatex Fashion Fair 03. - 06.07.2010 Essen<br />
Bread and Butter 07. - 09.07.2010 Berlin<br />
MMC Fashion Start 11. - 13.07.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig<br />
CPD incl. Global Fashion 25. - 27.07.2010 Düsseldorf<br />
MMC Kids Collections 30. - 01.08.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig<br />
MMC Mitteldeutsche Mode Messe 07. - 09.08.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig<br />
MMC Fashion Update 05. - 07.09.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig<br />
Kind + Jugend, Internationale Kinder- und Jugend- Messe 16. - 19.09.2010 Köln<br />
Import Shop Berlin 10. - 14.11.2010 Berlin<br />
Imotex Open all year Neuss<br />
Source: AUMA<br />
46<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
footwear and sports equipment), which is partially covered by the<br />
products specified for this study, the ISPO Fair in Munich plays a<br />
leading role for Germany and Europe. Approximately 1'600 exhibitors<br />
from more than 40 countries show their products in February<br />
and July each year. There have been tremendous changes and<br />
challenges for the German textile and clothing fairs since 2000<br />
and this trend can be expected to continue in the next few years.<br />
The shift in the ‘classical’ menswear segment from Cologne to<br />
Düsseldorf was the initial factor. Some two years back many reputed<br />
jeans and sportswear brands moved to the ‘Bread and Butter’<br />
in Berlin. The fair organisers are permanently working on developing<br />
the fair structure and services: the idea being that the visitor<br />
should have the most efficient and convenient way to become<br />
informed about fashion trends and to buy the clothing they require.<br />
In most clothing segments, from a commercial point of view, the<br />
German fairs still have the leading position within Europe although<br />
some other fairs (particularly in Italy) have taken over the ‘fashion<br />
leadership’. Among German retailers, the fairs mentioned above<br />
are regarded as ‘information platform No. 1’ to a very large extent.
3.6 List of major buyers in Germany.<br />
Clothing chain stores<br />
Bonita Gefühl für Mode<br />
GmbH & Co. KG<br />
Kesseldorfer Rott 39<br />
D - 46499 Hamminkeln<br />
Tel.: +49 – 2852 – 9500<br />
Fax: +49 – 2852 – 950100<br />
info@bonita.de<br />
www.bonita.de<br />
E. Breuninger GmbH & Co.<br />
Marktstr. 1 – 3<br />
D - 70173 Stuttgart<br />
Tel.: +49 – 711 – 211-0<br />
Fax: +49 – 711 – 211-3053<br />
kontakt@breuninger.de<br />
www.breuninger.de<br />
C&A Mode KG<br />
Wanheimer Straße 70<br />
40468 Düsseldorf<br />
Tel.: +49 – 211 – 98720<br />
service@shop-CundA.de<br />
www.cunda.de<br />
Appelrath-Cüpper<br />
Zeppelinstrasse 2<br />
D - 50667 Köln<br />
Tel.: +49 – 221 – 20 59 90<br />
info@appelrath-cuepper.de<br />
www.appelrath-cuepper.de<br />
Pohland-Herrenkleidung<br />
GmbH & Co. KG<br />
Brückenstraße 17<br />
D - 50677 Köln<br />
Tel.: +49 – 221 – 270497 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 221 – 270497 – 39<br />
info@pohland.de<br />
www.pohland.de<br />
Product range:<br />
Women‘s wear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 732<br />
Product range:<br />
Women’s, men’s and<br />
children’s wear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Upper level<br />
Number of outlets: 10<br />
Product range:<br />
Women’s, men’s and<br />
children’ s wear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 303<br />
Product range:<br />
Women’s wear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Number of outlets: 14<br />
Note: belongs to Douglas<br />
Holding AG<br />
Product range: Men’s wear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Number of outlets: 18<br />
Note: belongs to Douglas<br />
Holding AG<br />
Esprit Europe GmbH<br />
Esprit-Allee<br />
D-40882 Ratingen<br />
Tel.: +49 – 2102 – 123 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 2102 – 123 – 45<br />
– 100<br />
info@esprit.com<br />
www.esprit.com<br />
Hettlage + Fischer GmbH<br />
Industriestraße 1<br />
D - 48644 Coesfeld-Lette<br />
Tel.: +49 – 2546 9345 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 2546 9345 – 79<br />
info@hettlage-fischer.com<br />
www.hettlage-fischer.de<br />
H&M Hennes & Mauritz<br />
GmbH<br />
Spitalerstrasse 12<br />
D - 20095 Hamburg<br />
Tel: +49 – 40 – 350 95 50<br />
www.hm.com<br />
Orsay GmbH<br />
Im Lossenfeld 12<br />
D - 77731 Willstätt-Sand<br />
Tel.: +49 – 7852 – 910 – 0<br />
Fax +49 – 7852 – 910 - 909<br />
info@orsay.com<br />
www.orsay.com<br />
Peek & Cloppenburg KG<br />
Berliner Allee 2<br />
D - 40212 Düsseldorf<br />
Tel.: +49 – 211 – 3662 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 211 – 3662 – 697<br />
dialog@peekundcloppenburg.<br />
de<br />
www.peekundcloppenburg.de<br />
http://b2b.peek-und-cloppenburg.de/<br />
Product range: Women’s,<br />
men’s and children’s wear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Upper level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
800 directly managed<br />
retail stores and over<br />
6,000 wholesale outlets<br />
worldwide<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies, men’s and<br />
children’s wear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Number of outlets: 2<br />
Product range: Women’s,<br />
men’s and<br />
children’s wear<br />
Price segment: Lower level<br />
Number of outlets: 339<br />
Product range: Women’s<br />
wear<br />
Price segment: Lower to<br />
mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 260<br />
Note: belongs to Mulliez<br />
Group<br />
Product range: Ladies<br />
men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Upper level<br />
Number of outlets: 26<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 47
Clothing chain stores<br />
48<br />
SinnLeffers AG<br />
Batheyer Str. 115 – 117<br />
D - 58099 Hagen<br />
Tel.: +49 – 2331 – 620 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 2331 – 620 – 100<br />
info@sinnleffers.de<br />
www.sinnleffers.de<br />
s.Oliver Bernd Freier GmbH<br />
& Co. KG<br />
s.Oliver Straße 1<br />
D - 97228 Rottendorf<br />
Tel.: +49 – 93 02 / 3 09 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 93 02 / 3 09 – 473<br />
info@soliver.de<br />
onlineshop@soliver.com<br />
www.soliver.de<br />
Takko Holding GmbH<br />
Alfred Krupp Str. 21<br />
D - 48291 Telgte<br />
Tel.: +49 – 2504 – 923 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 2504 – 923 – 277<br />
info@takko.de<br />
www.takko.de<br />
Tchibo GmbH<br />
Überseering 18<br />
D - 22297 Hamburg<br />
Tel.: +49 – 40 – 6387 – 2876<br />
Fax: +49 – 40 – 6387 – 2530<br />
info@tchibo.com<br />
www.tchibo.de<br />
Charles Vögele Deutschland<br />
GmbH<br />
Zeppelinstrasse 2-8<br />
72488 Sigmaringen<br />
Tel.: +49 – 7571 723 0<br />
Fax +49 – 7571 723 171<br />
kundendienst.de@charlesvoegele.com<br />
www.voegele-mode.de<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Number of outlets: 24<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Number of owned stores:<br />
155<br />
Number of stores with<br />
partners: 370<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s and<br />
Childrenswear<br />
(and Accessoires, Jewelry)<br />
Price segment: Lower level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
920 Germany<br />
(1’400 worldwide)<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Lower level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
over 1000<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 352<br />
Wehmeyer Lifestyle GmbH<br />
Rotter Bruch 17<br />
D - 52068 Aachen<br />
Tel.: +49 – 2 41 / 51 97 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 241 51 97 107<br />
www.wehmeyer.com<br />
www.w-lifestyle.de<br />
kundenbetreuung@<br />
wehmeyer.com<br />
Rudolf Wöhrl AG<br />
Lina-Amman-Str. 10<br />
D - 90471 Nürnberg<br />
Tel.: +49 – 911 – 8121 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 911 – 8121 – 100<br />
info@woehrl.de<br />
www.woehrl.de<br />
Department stores (selection)<br />
Zara<br />
Moenckebergstrasse, 10<br />
D - 20095 Hamburg<br />
Tel.: +49 – 40 3 030 97 28<br />
Fax: +49 – 40 30 96 22 40<br />
www.zara.de<br />
Deutsche Woolworth GmbH<br />
Lyoner Str. 52<br />
D - 60528 Frankfurt a.M.<br />
Tel.: +49 – 69 – 6601 – 1<br />
Fax +49 – 69 – 6601 – 2399<br />
info@woolworth.de<br />
www.woolworth.de<br />
Metro AG<br />
Schlüterstraße 1<br />
D - 40235 Düsseldorf<br />
Tel.: +49 211 6886 10 51 or<br />
19 36<br />
Fax: +49 211 6886 37 59<br />
kontakt@metro.de<br />
www.metro-ag.de<br />
www.metrogroup.de<br />
www.investorrelations@metro.de<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’ and menswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 44<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Upper level<br />
(brands mainly)<br />
Number of outlets: 40<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’ and<br />
menswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 30<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
161 in Germany<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s,<br />
childrenswear and<br />
sportswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
Real/Extra 560,<br />
Kaufhof 141 in Germany
Department stores (selection)<br />
Kaufhof Warenhaus AG<br />
Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1<br />
D - 50676 Köln<br />
Tel.: +49 02 21 223 55 95<br />
Fax: +49 02 21 223 55 99<br />
www.galeria-kaufhof.de<br />
Callcenter Tel:<br />
+49 01805 17 25 17<br />
Callcenter Fax:<br />
+49 01805 17 35 17<br />
service@galeria-kaufhof.de<br />
Strauss Innovation GmbH &<br />
Co. KG<br />
Raiffeisenstr. 15-18<br />
D - 40764 Langenfeld<br />
Tel.: +49 - 2173 - 99 00 01<br />
Fax +49 - 2173 - 99 23 90<br />
fragenundantworten@<br />
strauss-innovation.de<br />
gutesundschlechtes@<br />
strauss-innovation.de<br />
www.strauss-innovation.de<br />
Wal-Mart Germany GmbH &<br />
Co. KG<br />
Friedrich-Engels-Allee 28<br />
D-42103 Wuppertal<br />
Tel: +49 – 202 – 2829 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 202 – 2829 – 1724<br />
kontakt@wal-mart.com<br />
www.walmart.de<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Number of outlets: 127<br />
Note: Belongs to Metro AG<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’ and menswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 93<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s, childrenswear<br />
and sportswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower level (for clothing)<br />
Number of outlets: 88<br />
Clothing manufacturers (importing)<br />
and wholesalers / importers<br />
Heinrich Nickel Gmbh &<br />
Co.Kg<br />
Wilhelm-Bergner-Str. 10<br />
D - 21509 Glinde<br />
Tel.: +49(0)40 7270 241<br />
Fax: +49(0)40 7270 224<br />
www.nickel-sportswear.com<br />
office@nickel-sportswear.com<br />
APRIORI Textilvertriebs<br />
GmbH<br />
Harkortstr. 24<br />
D - 48163 Münster<br />
Tel.: +49 (0)251 7135-0<br />
Fax: +49 (0)251 7135-837<br />
dialog@apriori-fashion.de<br />
www.apriori-fashion.de<br />
ara Shoes AG<br />
Zur Schlenkhecke 4<br />
D – 40764 Langenfeld<br />
Tel.: +49 – 2173 105 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 2173 105 108<br />
www.ara-moden.de<br />
info@ara-shoes.de<br />
Bay City Textilhandels &<br />
Co.KG<br />
An‘n Slagboom 7<br />
Postfach 3165<br />
D-22848 Norderstedt<br />
Tel.: +49 (40) 534 13 300<br />
Fax: +49 (40) 534 13 301<br />
baycity@fashioncenter.net<br />
www.fashioncenter.net/<br />
baycity<br />
www.bay-city.de<br />
F.W. Brinkmann GmbH<br />
Waltgeristraße 1-5<br />
32049 Herford<br />
Tel: +49 (0) 52 21 / 88 40<br />
Fax: +49 (0) 52 21 / 88 42 81<br />
info@bugatti.de<br />
www.bugatti.de<br />
Importer of men’s, ladies<br />
and<br />
children’s sportswear<br />
Wholesaler of ladies wear<br />
Number of owned stores:<br />
125<br />
Belongs 100% to:<br />
PRIMERA GmbH & Co.<br />
Manufacturer of classic<br />
women and men shoes<br />
Over 500 shops worldwide,<br />
in 2008 sold 7 mn. Shoes<br />
in over 50 countries<br />
(CMT business mainly)<br />
Importer for jeans, casual<br />
and active sportswear<br />
founded: 1975 and belongs<br />
to Schmid Gruppe<br />
License Contract with<br />
Unilever (Lable: Langnese)<br />
Manufacturer of classic<br />
men’s and<br />
sportswear (mainly CMT<br />
business –<br />
brand orientated)<br />
Forecast: 150 new shops<br />
to be open (average / year:<br />
15 shops)<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 49
Clothing manufacturers (importing)<br />
and wholesalers / importers Mail order companies<br />
50<br />
Bültel Bekleidungswerke<br />
GmbH<br />
Rheiner Str. 28<br />
D - 48499 Salzbergen<br />
Tel.: +49 – 5976 – 270<br />
Fax: +49 – 5976 – 27410<br />
www.bueltel.com<br />
info@bueltel.com<br />
elho <strong>Business</strong> & Sport Vertriebs<br />
GmbH<br />
Bronkhorstr. 56 / 2. Etage<br />
D – 47137 Duisburg<br />
Tel.: +49 – 89 – 42091 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 89 – 42091 – 213<br />
www.elho.de<br />
otto.schwarz@elho.de<br />
Frontline GmbH<br />
Hinüberstraße 4A<br />
30175 Hannover<br />
Tel.: +49 – 4105 – 6105 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 4105 – 6105 – 64<br />
www.frontline.de<br />
Gardeur GmbH<br />
Alsstraße 155<br />
D - 41063 Mönchengladbach<br />
Tel.: +49 – 2161 – 816 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 2161 – 183833<br />
www.gardeur.com<br />
info@gardeur.de<br />
Hucke AG<br />
Ravensberger Str. 41<br />
D - 32312 Lübbecke<br />
Tel.: +49 – 5741 – 364 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 5741 – 364 – 414<br />
www.hucke.de<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Manufacturer of men’s<br />
sportswear<br />
Founded: 1964<br />
Manufacturer of active and<br />
casual<br />
sportswear (full import and<br />
CMT)<br />
Distributor of garments of<br />
all kinds<br />
Manufacturer of classic<br />
ladies’ and menswear<br />
specialised in trousers<br />
(CMT business – brand<br />
oriented)<br />
Gardeur GmbH, founded<br />
in 1920, has recently been<br />
acquired by HSH Private<br />
Equity (Hamburg)<br />
Multi Brand manufacturer<br />
of ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear (full import<br />
and CMT)<br />
Hucke Fashion GmbH,<br />
Königsmühle u. R. Overmeyer<br />
Bekleidungs GmbH<br />
Alba Moda Gmbh<br />
Daimlerstr. 13<br />
D - 32108 Bad Salzuflen<br />
Tel.: +49 – (0) 180 540 55<br />
Fax: +49 – (0) 180 540 59 99<br />
www.albaModa.de<br />
Baur Versand (GmbH & Co.<br />
KG)<br />
Bahnhofstraße 10<br />
96224 Burgkunstadt<br />
Tel.: +49 – 0 95 72 - 91 0<br />
www.baur.de<br />
service@baur.de<br />
Bruno Bader Gmbh + Co Kg<br />
Maximilianstraße 48<br />
D - 75172 Pforzheim<br />
Tel.: +49 – 180 – 5 222 111<br />
Fax: +49 – 180 – 5 222 777<br />
www.bader.de<br />
service@bader.de<br />
Cyrillus Deutschland Gmbh<br />
Sonneaue 69<br />
D - 47804 Krefeld<br />
Tel.: +49 – 180 5 095 095<br />
Fax: +49 – 180 5 000 955<br />
www.cyrillus.de<br />
mailbox2@cyrillus.com<br />
Heinrich Heine Gmbh<br />
Windeckstr. 15<br />
D - 76135 Karlsruhe<br />
Tel.: +49 – (0) 180 – 536 36<br />
Fax: +49 – (0) 180 - 5 524 524<br />
Tel. Kundenbetreuung:<br />
+49 (0) 180 - 522 66<br />
www.heine.de<br />
service@heine.de<br />
Versandhaus Robert Klingel<br />
Sachsenstr. 23<br />
D - 75177 Pforzheim<br />
Tel.: +49 – 0180 53 200<br />
Fax:+49 – 0180 530 56 70<br />
www.klingel.de<br />
service@klingel.de<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’ and menswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Note: Fashion orientated<br />
(not young fashion)<br />
Product range: All kinds<br />
of goods, ladies’, men’s,<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid market level<br />
Note: one of the larger<br />
mail-order companies<br />
Product range: All kinds<br />
of goods, ladies’, men’s,<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid market level<br />
Note: one of the larger<br />
mail-order companies<br />
Product range: Ladies’,<br />
men’s, childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Mid level<br />
Note: Niche market<br />
mail-order house<br />
Products:<br />
Home textiles, furniture,<br />
accessories, ladies’,<br />
menswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Note: more classic styles<br />
Product range: All kinds of<br />
goods, ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Mid level
Mail order companies<br />
Neckermann Versand AG<br />
Hanauer Landstraße 360<br />
D - 60386 Frankfurt am Main<br />
Tel.: +49 – 180 55414<br />
www.neckermann.de<br />
service@neckermann.de<br />
Otto (GmbH & Co KG)<br />
Wandsbeker Straße 3-7<br />
D - 22172 Hamburg<br />
OTTO-Hotline: 0180 - 5 30<br />
30Hotline: +49 (0) 180 530 30<br />
Tel.: +49 40 - 64 61 - 0<br />
Fax: +49 40 - 64 61 - 85 71OT-<br />
TO-Hotline: 0180 - 5 30 30<br />
www.otto.de<br />
service@otto.de<br />
Sport Scheck GmbH<br />
Sendlinger Str. 6<br />
D - 80331 München<br />
Tel: +49 89 2166-0<br />
Fax: +49 89 2166-1420<br />
Tel. Kundenbetreuung:<br />
Tel.: +49 – 180 55050*<br />
Fax: +49 – 180 55051*<br />
www.sportscheck.com<br />
filiale_muenchen@sportscheck.com<br />
Jeans-, sportswear and young fashion<br />
Western Store Beran<br />
Mister-Lady GmbH<br />
Sprottauer Str. 4 – 8<br />
D - 90475 Nürnberg<br />
Tel.: +49 – 911 – 984 760<br />
Fax: +49 – 911 – 984 73 04<br />
www.wsberan.de<br />
Diesel Deutschland Gmbh<br />
Kasernenstr. 1<br />
D - 40213 Düsseldorf<br />
Tel.: +49 211 8622 966<br />
www.diesel.com<br />
Product range: All kinds<br />
of goods, ladies’, men’s,<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid market level<br />
Note: one of the larger<br />
mail-order companies<br />
Product range: Ladies’,<br />
men’s and hildrenswear<br />
and other goods<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid level<br />
Note: Largest mail order<br />
house in the orld selling<br />
worldwide<br />
Product range: All kinds of<br />
goods, women’s and<br />
children’ wear, sportswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Product range: Jeans and<br />
sportswear, young fashion<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 200<br />
Product range:<br />
Jeans, young fashion<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Number of outlets: 11<br />
Jeans Palast Görgens<br />
GmbH<br />
Schildergasse 55<br />
D - 50667 Köln<br />
Tel.: +49 221 – 257 86 49<br />
Fax: +49 221 – 258 85 51<br />
jeans-palast-koeln@goergensgruppe.dehttp://filialnetz.guna.de/filialnetz/koeln/jeanspalast/<br />
Jeans Fritz<br />
Handelsgesellschaft für<br />
Mode mbH<br />
Tengerner Straße 143<br />
D - 32609 Hüllhorst<br />
Tel.: +49 (0) 5744 512 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 (0) 5744 512 – 111<br />
www.jeans-fritz.de<br />
New Yorker S.H.K Jeans<br />
GmbH<br />
Hansestraße 48<br />
D - 38112 Braunschweig<br />
Tel.: +49 – 531 – 2135 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 531 – 2135 – 187<br />
www.newyorker.de<br />
smattern@newyorker.de<br />
(Produktanfragen & Expansion)<br />
HIS TEXTIL GmbH<br />
Bellevue 7<br />
D - 22301<br />
Tel.: +49 – 89 – 329070<br />
Fax: +49 – 89 – 32907108<br />
www.his-jeans.de<br />
www.info@his-jeans.com<br />
MUSTANG Jeans GmbH &<br />
Co.KG<br />
P.O. Box 1264<br />
D – 74642 Künzelsau<br />
Tel.: +49 – 7940 – 125 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 7940 – 125 – 102<br />
www.mustang.de<br />
info@mustang.de<br />
Product range:<br />
Jeans, young fashion<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Number of outlets: 53<br />
Product range:<br />
Jeans, leisurewear<br />
Price segment: Mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 237<br />
Product range:<br />
Price segment: Mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 298<br />
Product range: Jeans<br />
Price segment :<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Note: Manufacturer +<br />
clothing chain<br />
Product range:<br />
Jeans and sportswear<br />
Price segment :<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Note: Manufacturer +<br />
clothing chain<br />
Number of outlets: 970<br />
(an present in over 31<br />
countries worldwide)<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 51
Buying associations<br />
52<br />
ARDEK eG (proBABY c/o)<br />
Robert Bosch Str. 9<br />
D - 65719 Hofheim-Wallau<br />
Tel.: +49 – 6122 – 72 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 6122 – 72338<br />
www.ardek.de<br />
info@ardek.de<br />
www.probaby.de<br />
info@probaby.de<br />
INTERSPORT Deutschland eG<br />
Wannenäckerstr. 50<br />
D - 74078 Heilbronn<br />
Tel.: +49 – 7131 – 288 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 7131 – 21257<br />
www.intersport.com<br />
contact@intersport.com<br />
KATAG AG<br />
Stralsunder Str. 5<br />
D - 33605 Bielefeld<br />
Tel.: +49 – 521 – 292 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 521 – 292 – 101<br />
www katag.net<br />
www.info@katag.de<br />
Kurtenbach Gbmh & Co. Kg<br />
Offheimer Weg 45<br />
D - 65549 Limburg<br />
Tel.: +49 – 6431 – 503 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 6431 – 503 – 201<br />
www.mut-kurtenbach.de<br />
Geschäftsleitung@Kurtenbach.de<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Product range: Products<br />
for children, childrenswear,<br />
pro-BABY-Line /<br />
Products for babies (100<br />
Member companies)<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Member companies:<br />
over than 500<br />
Product range:<br />
(Active) sportswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Member companies:<br />
1,450<br />
Note: Market leader for<br />
active sportswear<br />
Product range:<br />
Men’s, ladies’ and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Member companies:<br />
1’200<br />
Product range:<br />
All kinds of garments<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower level<br />
Member companies:<br />
2000
4. Italy.<br />
4.1 General economic situation.<br />
Italy’s current population is 60 million; the country has developed<br />
to an economic level similar to that of countries such as Germany,<br />
France or United Kingdom. Before 1945, Italy was quite rural and<br />
today the country is still characterised by an agricultural South<br />
with an unemployment rate of 13.2% and a few big state-owned<br />
companies. On the other hand, the ‘rich’ North has a favourable<br />
economic climate and many successful private companies.<br />
In 2009 Italy faced a difficult period with a GDP real growth rate<br />
of -4.5%. The economy was in a sharp recession, mainly because<br />
of external developments linked to the global financial crisis, and<br />
there was great uncertainty about the strength and timing of the<br />
recovery. Italian exports plummeted 26% in 2008, the largest drop<br />
since records began in 1991. Despite a relatively healthy banking<br />
system Italy seems particularly sensitive to both the credit tightening<br />
which has occurred in line with that in other countries and the<br />
weakness in external demand. This sensitivity has probably been<br />
accentuated both by the poor productivity and aggregate profitability<br />
performance of the economy over the past decade or more,<br />
and by the weak underlying fiscal situation. An array of budget<br />
neutral measures have been taken in the short term, but economic<br />
performance must be enhanced over the longer term by both macroeconomic<br />
and structural policy reforms.<br />
4.2 The market for outerwear.<br />
4.2.1 Market size<br />
Italy is the third largest clothing market in Europe, behind Germany<br />
and the UK, and therefore plays a major role in the European<br />
fashion business. The market size for outerwear stands at € 40.9<br />
billion.<br />
4.2.2 Market characteristics<br />
The Italian clothing market has traditionally been mainly supplied<br />
by a strong national apparel industry, comprised primarily of family<br />
owned production companies. These small to medium size companies<br />
are flexible and often highly specialised in specific products.<br />
They are able to react quickly to market needs. The strong<br />
community within these companies allows the Italian companies to<br />
produce higher quality goods and to be more effective. About 90%<br />
of the small firms are geographically concentrated and often build<br />
so-called ‘conzorzii’, e.g. for export group marketing activities.<br />
The problems in Italian fashion business are also due to its own<br />
structure. Therefore many companies have begun or are planning<br />
to embark on restructuring processes. Nonetheless, the Italian<br />
clothing industry is one of the most competitive within Western<br />
Europe and imports of outerwear encounter difficulties in finding<br />
suitable market access. The Italian clothing industry itself is highly<br />
export oriented and plays an important role in the economic situation<br />
of the whole country.<br />
500'000 workers directly depend on the Italian clothing industry.<br />
Italy is a leading country for clothing (and textiles) worldwide.<br />
Clothing exports are double the imports. Italian consumers are<br />
very much brand oriented, but also are looking for items which<br />
offer value for money. In recent years, the consumers have also<br />
become more price oriented and are known for their high demands<br />
regarding quality. Because of the high specialisation of the<br />
Italian producers and their offer of very sophisticated collections,<br />
manufacturers from abroad should avoid copying Italian outerwear.<br />
Cheaper and lighter clothing is more often sold in the South of<br />
Italy, where the climate is warmer and there is less income per<br />
capita. There is more expenditure on clothing in the richer North<br />
than in the South, although more people live in the South of Italy.<br />
4.2.3 Demographic characteristics<br />
Italy is known as a family loving country where children and mothers<br />
play an important role in society. Less known is the fact that<br />
the formerly high birth rates in Italy have dramatically dropped<br />
since the beginning of records in 1952 from 2.33 living birth per<br />
women to 1.41 in 2008. The lowest birth-rate was recorded in<br />
1995 with 1.18 living birth per women. Since then, birth-rate went<br />
constantly up again. The Italian population grew constantly from<br />
1952 to 2009 with a CAGR of 0.4% per year.<br />
The most numerous group in the population are the 35 – 39 and<br />
40 - 44 age groups, with a total of about 5 million inhabitants.<br />
Compared to this age group, there is nearly half of that number in<br />
the lowest age group, that is, the newborn – 4 year old segment<br />
(2.5 million persons). Figure 4 shows further details.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 53
The consequence of the low birth-rate is not only that less children's<br />
wear is sold, but major changes are required on the production<br />
side. Since clothing production in Italy has a tradition of small<br />
family owned companies, there are negative effects due to smaller<br />
family sizes. The owners are no longer able to run the company<br />
with fewer family members.<br />
Figure 4: Age structure of Italian population by gender, 2008<br />
Source: U.S. Census Bureau, International Data Base<br />
54<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
10 0 +<br />
9 5 - 9 9<br />
9 0 - 9 4<br />
8 5 - 9 0<br />
8 0 - 8 5<br />
75 -79<br />
70 -74<br />
6 5 - 6 9<br />
6 0 - 6 4<br />
5 5 - 59<br />
50 - 5 4<br />
4 5 - 49<br />
4 0 - 4 4<br />
3 5 - 3 9<br />
3 0 - 3 4<br />
25 -29<br />
20 -24<br />
15 -19<br />
10 -14<br />
5 - 9<br />
0 - 4<br />
Population in millions<br />
Another possible consequence is that parents often cannot find<br />
a successor for their clothing business. Since these small family<br />
companies are flexible, highly service oriented and dominating<br />
the independent shops, the whole clothing distribution in Italy is<br />
affected.<br />
male female<br />
2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5<br />
4.2.4 Retail sales by product category<br />
The shares of the different apparel segments (styles) of formal<br />
and casual clothing, leisurewear and active sportswear in Italy are<br />
similarly structured to the more traditional oriented British clothing<br />
market. Table 36 shows the dominant role in sales of formal<br />
clothing: 40% of men's wear sold in Italy is formal wear as is 38%<br />
of women's wear. Compared to other European countries, the<br />
share of formal wear is very high.<br />
Casual wear has a market share of 34% for men's wear and 37%<br />
for women's wear and is a preferred product category of the Italian<br />
consumer, as in all other Western European countries. However,<br />
casual wear as the Italians understand it has a very sophisticated<br />
touch with high quality fabrics and basic but elegant designs in<br />
comparison to the Northern European markets.<br />
Basic leisure wear is less important in Italy and only represents<br />
18% (men's wear) and 18% (women's wear) of the total clothing<br />
market.<br />
Table 36: Share of outerwear by gender, 2004 and 2008<br />
Women Men Children<br />
2004 2008 2004 2008 2004 2008<br />
Formal 40% 38% 41% 40% 17% 16%<br />
Casual 35% 37% 33% 34% 70% 71%<br />
Leisure 19% 18% 19% 18% n.a. n.a.<br />
Active<br />
sports<br />
6% 7% 7% 8% 13% 13%<br />
Total 100% 100% 100% 100% 100% 100%<br />
Source: Analysis based on Eurostat and Euromonitor
4.2.5 Consumer behaviour<br />
4.2.5.1 Consumer preferences<br />
Table 37 shows the development of the preferred types of retail<br />
channels for clothing from 2004 to 2008. The table indicates that<br />
Italian consumers mainly prefer to buy clothing in independent<br />
shops. This retail sector still accounts for half of the total Italian<br />
clothing retail market. The main reasons why Italian consumers<br />
prefer independent retailers is that these shops are somehow<br />
‘closer to the consumer’. Furthermore, these boutique-like shops<br />
offer personal contact and mores service. The formerly very strong<br />
market position of independent retailers has been weakened, but<br />
is still clearly dominating the buying decisions of the consumers.<br />
The high share of clothing consumption through independent<br />
shops expresses the desire for service and quality. A graphic<br />
illustration of the 2008 situation is given in chapter 4.4.3.1 ‘Retailers’.<br />
Generally speaking, the Italian consumer is extremely quality and<br />
fashion conscious, but very hesitant and looks only for products<br />
which he or she is really convinced of.<br />
The fact, that Italians are more and more price oriented as<br />
consumers can be derived from the increasing role of hyper- and<br />
supermarkets in the Italian retail market, where men’s and children's<br />
wear in particular is bought. At the same time, consumers<br />
have a high brand awareness. This is particularly evident in the<br />
segment of children’s clothing. Many children love to have clothing<br />
with pictures of current trends for kids on it.<br />
Table 37: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]<br />
2004 2006 2008<br />
Specialists 69 68 67<br />
Independent retailers 51 49 48<br />
Clothing multiples 18 19 19<br />
Non-specialists 31 32 33<br />
Department/variety stores 10 10 10<br />
Home shopping companies 0 1 1<br />
Hyper- and supermarkets 9 10 10<br />
Sports stores 4 4 5<br />
Other 8 7 7<br />
Total 100 100 100<br />
Source: CBI<br />
4.2.5.2 Consumer expenditure<br />
Italy, in terms of consumption volume of clothing, belongs to the<br />
top four countries within Europe together with France, the UK and<br />
Germany. The consumption of clothing will, according to most<br />
recent estimates, account for € 44 billion in 2009. Over the last<br />
few years, spending on clothing in Italy was fluctuating around €<br />
46 billion. As mentioned at the beginning of the Italian chapter, the<br />
economy was badly hit by the financial crisis. This is also reflected<br />
in the drop by -5.3% in total clothing consumption from 2008 to<br />
2009. More details may be found in table 38.<br />
It is notable that Italian women do not buy that much more clothing<br />
than men. In other European countries like UK or <strong>Switzerland</strong>,<br />
women’s expenditure for clothing is nearly double that of men.<br />
In Italy, women only spend around 50-55% more on clothing<br />
compared to men. This means that in Italy the market segment for<br />
men's wear is more important than in the other countries analysed<br />
in this survey<br />
Table 38: Consumption of clothing in Italy<br />
2004 2006 2008 2009*<br />
Total clothing [€ billion] 45.3 45.7 46.5 44<br />
Change [%] - 0.9% 1.8% -5.4%<br />
Source: CBI – Note:*forecast<br />
As table 39 indicates, the total expenditures in the North and in the<br />
South of Italy are different. The disposable income in the North is<br />
much higher than in the South. The Italian Statistical Office (ISTAT)<br />
indicates an average household expenditure in 2006 of € 2'860 for<br />
the North and only € 2'010 for the South of Italy.<br />
It is not possible to make a distinction between clothing and<br />
footwear consumption on the basis of ISTAT figures. The figures<br />
indicate that the consumption of clothing/footwear in 2006 in Italy<br />
accounts for 6.4% of total household consumption (Basis: middle<br />
income household).<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 55
Although expenditure in the South in total is lower - due to less North and Central part of Italy, where the import and distribution<br />
disposable income - the share of expenditure for clothing (and structures are much better developed. Nevertheless, the South,<br />
footwear) is at 7.7% and higher than the Italian average. Generally due to lower income, has a higher demand for ‘basic clothing<br />
speaking, the more attractive areas for clothing sales are in the items’ (e.g. cotton products like cotton casual shirts and trousers,<br />
T-shirts, knitwear).<br />
Table 39: Comparison of household expenditure on selected categories by region, 2002 - 2006<br />
56<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
2002 2003 2004 2005 2006<br />
Monthly expenditure per household €<br />
North Italy 2’413.89 2’572.14 2’699.75 2’726.62 2’859.61<br />
Central Italy 2’347.88 2’466.15 2’391.75 2’478.17 2’494.53<br />
South Italy 1’786.56 1’906.64 1’971.31 1’970.76 2’009.21<br />
Italy 2’194.23 2’313.00 2’381.07 2’397.54 2’460.80<br />
Spending categories<br />
Clothing / footwear<br />
Percentage distribution<br />
North Italy 6.3% 6.0% 6.2% 5.6% 5.5%<br />
Central Italy 6.4% 6.5% 6.4% 6.2% 6.10%<br />
South Italy 7.9% 7.7% 7.7% 7.9% 7.7%<br />
Italy<br />
Housing<br />
6.8% 6.7% 6.6% 6.3% 6.4%<br />
North Italy 25.7% 26.4% 26.1% 26.6% 27.2%<br />
Central Italy 26.5% 27.6% 27.6% 28.9% 28.8%<br />
South Italy 21.4% 20.7% 21.7% 22.0% 23.0%<br />
Italy<br />
Fuel and electric power<br />
24.7% 24.9% 25.5% 25.8% 26.0%<br />
North Italy 5.2% 5.1% 5.0% 5.1% 5.3%<br />
Central Italy 4.5% 4.6% 4.7% 5.0% 4.9%<br />
South Italy 4.4% 4.5% 4.4% 4.7% 4.8%<br />
Italy<br />
Food and drinks<br />
4.7% 4.7% 4.7% 4.9% 5.0%<br />
North Italy 16.1% 16.6% 15.9% 15.8% 15.4%<br />
Central Italy 18.8% 19.0% 19.0% 18.8% 19.0%<br />
South Italy 24.3% 24.3% 23.8% 23.6% 24.2%<br />
Italy 19.4% 19.5% 19.0% 19.0% 19.0%<br />
Furniture, appliances and household services<br />
North Italy 6.4% 6.1% 6.1% 5.9% 6.2%<br />
Central Italy 6.8% 6.1% 5.6% 5.7% 5.6%<br />
South Italy 6.8% 7.2% 7.2% 7.1% 6.4%<br />
Italy 6.4% 6.2% 6.3% 6.1% 5.9%<br />
Source: Analysis based on ISTAT
4.2.6 Price developments of clothing<br />
Table 40 indicates the clothing (and footwear) price index compared<br />
with the general consumer price index in Italy from 2003 to<br />
2006.<br />
The clothing price index CAGR from 2003 to 2006 was with 1.7%<br />
smaller than the CAGR of the general consumer price index with<br />
2.1%.<br />
Table 40: Comparison of household expenditure on selected<br />
categories by region, 2002 - 2006<br />
2003 2004 2005 2006<br />
General consumer<br />
price index<br />
Clothing and footwear<br />
122 124.7 127.1 129.8<br />
price index 124.4 127.2 129.2 130.9<br />
Source: Analysis based on ISTAT – Note: 1995 = 100.0<br />
4.3 Imports.<br />
4.3.1 Total imports<br />
Total Italian imports of outerwear in 2008 amounted to € 9.8 billion.<br />
The CAGR was 1% from 2006 to 2008. Like elsewhere in Europe,<br />
extra EU imports increased in the same period with a higher pace.<br />
In the case of Italy extra EU imports grew with a CAGR of 1.7%<br />
from 2006 to 2008, amounting to an end value of € 6 billion. This<br />
shows that developing and emerging countries also are increasing<br />
their market share of outerwear clothing in Italy.<br />
In addition, imports of the different outerwear segments covered by<br />
this study showed a strong upswing from 2004 to 2008. Specially<br />
the import increase by 36% of knitted women's outerwear (table<br />
41) is remarkable.<br />
In the same period, the imports of men’s and boys outerwear only<br />
grew by 25% in value terms. Category 61.03 (suits, jackets, outfits,<br />
trousers, shorts etc.) only grew by 0.6%, this may be the result of a<br />
very strong national menswear industry which is able to successfully<br />
compete against foreign producers.<br />
In 2008 the total extra EU imports value amounted to 59% of the<br />
knitted outerwear clothing import and grew by 11.7% from 2006 to<br />
2008 in value terms. In the same period total import value grew by<br />
11.8%.<br />
Table 41: Imports of knitted outerwear by gender and product<br />
categories, 2006-2008<br />
2006 2007 2008<br />
Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />
For men or boys<br />
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.01) 1’985 37’941 1’700 40’136 1’664 46’794<br />
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts<br />
etc. (61.03)<br />
11’705 142’297 8’983 158’408 7’705 143’124<br />
Shirts (61.05) 8’380 188’298 10’106 238’978 10’627 268’854<br />
Sub Total 22’070 368’537 20’789 437’522 19’996 458’772<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
For women or girls<br />
20’354 230’137 20’789 259’256 19’996 271’069<br />
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.02) 1’952 51’031 1’111 49’446 1’173 53’333<br />
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, dresses,<br />
skirts etc. (61.04)<br />
23’438 230’638 12’937 311’990 10’395 341’770<br />
Blouses and shirts (61.06) 3’034 123’473 2’847 153’877 3’550 156’020<br />
Sub Total 28’425 405’142 16’894 515’312 15’118 551’123<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 27’176 213’334 16’894 245’899 15’118 290’946<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 57
For both genders<br />
T-shirts, singlets etc. (61.09) 53’351 1’110’158 48’380 1’177’639 47’096 1’130’123<br />
Jersey, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats,<br />
etc. (61.10)<br />
57’994 1’420’391 40’768 1’430’229 45’963 1’504’714<br />
Babies’ garments (61.11) 18’456 208’375 13’866 224’805 12’179 223’436<br />
Garments rubberised, impregnated,<br />
etc. (61.13)<br />
889 11’772 638 11’273 526 9’394<br />
Gloves, mittens and mitts (61.16) 5’241 65’357 5’262 64’557 5’696 68’806<br />
Other made-up clothing accessories<br />
(61.17)<br />
4’559 50’923 2’738 40’364 2’805 45’076<br />
Sub Total 140’489 2’866’976 111’651 2’948’867 114’265 2’981’551<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
Active Sportswear<br />
124’026 1’774’804 107’453 1’799’282 110’165 1’940’600<br />
Track suits, ski suits and swimwear<br />
(61.12)<br />
18’065 232’051 14’406 229’937 12’357 248’433<br />
Special garments for professional<br />
sporting or other purposes (61.14)<br />
8’767 239’645 11’236 300’967 19’379 358’683<br />
Sub Total 26’832 471’696 25’642 530’904 31’736 607’116<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 22’469 203’844 18’059 196’059 14’916 201’923<br />
TOTAL 217’816 4’112’351 174’976 4’432’606 181’116 4’598’561<br />
TOTAL EXTRA EU 194’025 2’422’120 163’195 2’500’496 160’195 2’704’537<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
Table 42 shows the import figures of woven outerwear into Italy<br />
from 2006 to 2008. An interesting fact is that imports of woven<br />
men's wear dropped by -5.2% from 2006 to 2008. Total women's<br />
woven outerwear imports grew by 1.4% in the same time period.<br />
The Extra EU import share grew in both cases by 4.6% and 8.8%<br />
respectively.<br />
In 2008, imports of woven men's wear into Italy amounted to € 1.5<br />
billion and imports of woven women's wear in 2008 represent €<br />
2.2 billion. It must be mentioned that imports of woven men's wear<br />
where much higher in 2004 with € 2 billion and woven women's<br />
wear reached only € 1.6 billion.<br />
Imports of all woven outerwear categories for men decreased from<br />
2006 to 2008. Especially category 62.10 (coats, anoraks, windcheaters,<br />
etc.) decreased by -11.3%. In the same period women's<br />
woven outerwear imports of the same category increased by<br />
4.1%.<br />
58<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Total woven outerwear imports decreased by 2% to € 5.2 billion<br />
from 2006 to 2008. In the same period the share of extra EU<br />
imports increased by 5.7% to 63%. This corresponds to a value of<br />
€ 3.3 billion.
Table 42: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008<br />
For men or boys<br />
2006 2007 2008<br />
Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc.<br />
(62.01)<br />
31’959 582’666 24’359 531’266 19’594 516’676<br />
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts,<br />
etc. (62.03)<br />
69’278 1’397’554 55’871 1’371’590 51’872 1’353’472<br />
Shirts (62.05) 20’572 432’402 16’169 426’841 13’668 417’779<br />
Sub Total 121’809 2’412’622 96’399 2’329’697 85’134 2’287’927<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
For women or girls<br />
105’477 1’494’501 96’399 1’504’279 85’134 1’482’408<br />
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc.<br />
(62.02)<br />
29’856 569’159 21’559 566’107 17’262 592’285<br />
Suits, jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers,<br />
etc (62.04)<br />
53’923 1’384’183 35’749 1’387’445 32’927 1’363’832<br />
Blouses and shirts (62.06) 6’104 226’542 3’960 239’971 4’148 254’720<br />
Sub Total 89’883 2’179’884 61’268 2’193’522 54’337 2’210’837<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
For both genders<br />
79’076 1’248’820 61’268 1’295’412 54’337 1’377’740<br />
Babies garments (62.09) 5’536 100’626 5’787 115’223 4’884 103’930<br />
Others incl. Impregnated (62.10) 11’204 151’082 12’564 159’876 11’718 148’690<br />
Shawls, scarves, mufflers, etc. (62.14) 4’158 77’304 2’316 65’719 2’643 79’964<br />
Ties, bow ties and cravats (62.15) 982 35’281 928 27’748 783 26’598<br />
Gloves, mittens and mitts (62.16) 1’337 27’523 998 20’054 861 18’585<br />
Other made-up clothing accessories<br />
(62.17)<br />
3’074 54’024 2’632 51’332 2’303 51’328<br />
Sub Total 26’292 445’842 25’226 439’951 23’192 429’096<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
Active Sportswear<br />
19’051 256’475 17’553 243’027 17’143 251’929<br />
Track suits, ski suits (62.11) 20’000 294’016 17’931 277’373 18’820 295’945<br />
Sub Total 20’000 294’016 17’931 277’373 18’820 295’945<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 14’557 183’974 13’919 179’647 13’788 185’674<br />
TOTAL 257’983 5’332’364 200’824 5’240’543 181’483 5’223’805<br />
TOTAL EXTRA EU 218’161 3’183’770 189’139 3’222’366 170’402 3’297’750<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 59
4.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT)<br />
According to table 43, the main two import countries for OPT business<br />
with Italy are Albania, with imports of € 35.7 million in 2008,<br />
and Tunisia, with imports valuing € 28.8 million. At present, the<br />
countries with the highest growth rates in the outward processing<br />
trade are Hong Kong (+155%), Armenia (+126%), <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />
(+63%) and Ukraine (+61%).<br />
Table 43: Largest supplying countries of OPT outerwear,<br />
2006-2008<br />
Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change<br />
from 2006<br />
60<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
For Italy, the proportion of OPT imports compared to ‘normal’<br />
imports of outerwear (f.o.b. business) is low. The implication for<br />
clothing manufacturers mainly based in Eastern European countries<br />
is that there is a great deal of potential for more OPT business<br />
in the Italian market due to the national industry’s struggle<br />
with increasing costs for labour, energy, raw materials etc.<br />
The total OPT business into Italy from non EU countries has been<br />
slightly shrinking year after year: -1.8% in 2006 and -1.6% in 2008<br />
2007 [‘000 €] Change<br />
from 2007<br />
1 Albania 19’042 103% 38’650 -8% 35’682<br />
2 Tunisia 22’442 11% 24’960 15% 28’769<br />
3 China 8’221 171% 22’319 -19% 18’001<br />
4 Croatia 10’441 107% 21’649 -24% 16’387<br />
5 Moldova 9’358 68% 15’755 -1% 15’615<br />
6 Ukraine 7’575 0% 7’547 61% 12’147<br />
7 Morocco 1’043 557% 6’850 -13% 5’976<br />
8 Serbia 984 379% 4’717 -11% 4’198<br />
9 <strong>Switzerland</strong> 0 - 2’501 63% 4’079<br />
10 Macedonia 1’666 94% 3’229 6% 3’427<br />
11 Hong Kong 588 83% 1’073 155% 2’736<br />
12 Egypt 41 4733% 1’968 8% 2’119<br />
13 Bosnia-Herz. 243 566% 1’616 18% 1’912<br />
14 Mauritius 74 1457% 1’155 56% 1’797<br />
15 Montenegro 760 53% 1’163 -53% 546<br />
16 Macao 0 - 351 52% 534<br />
17 Armenia 0 - 143 126% 322<br />
18 Vietnam 806 4% 841 -69% 257<br />
19 Israel 0 - 0 - 201<br />
20 Sri Lanka 762 -59% 316 -43% 180<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
2008 [‘000 €]<br />
Total 168’360 -6% 158’631 -2% 155’541
4.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear<br />
Looking at the major clothing supplying countries to Italy, table<br />
44 gives a very good survey on the ‘top 20’ extra EU suppliers.<br />
Among the emerging and developing countries is China, with high<br />
year to year growth rate imports of € 2.7 billion in 2008. This figure<br />
represents almost 45% of the total imports of outerwear into Italy.<br />
A similar picture can be drawn for Tunisia (€ 0.8 billion) and Turkey<br />
(€ 0.5 billion) which have considerable growth rates, too.<br />
Table 44: Largest extra EU supplying countries of outerwear,<br />
2006-2008<br />
Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change<br />
from 2006<br />
2007 [‘000 €] Change<br />
from 2007<br />
2008 [‘000 €]<br />
1 China 2’274’671 7% 2’434’448 10% 2’672’062<br />
2 Tunisia 718’142 9% 781’795 5% 818’742<br />
3 Turkey 474’623 12% 530’804 2% 539’329<br />
4 Bangladesh 333’929 -10% 301’923 18% 355’189<br />
5 India 339’217 -10% 305’470 -10% 275’318<br />
6 Croatia 169’421 -11% 151’551 5% 159’431<br />
7 Morocco 99’119 40% 139’136 1% 140’423<br />
8 Albania 90’461 5% 94’981 8% 103’042<br />
9 <strong>Switzerland</strong> 79’284 9% 86’119 9% 94’021<br />
10 Sri Lanka 50’128 30% 64’977 25% 81’487<br />
11 Vietnam 58’959 17% 69’198 11% 76’803<br />
12 Moldova 62’696 15% 71’836 -3% 69’527<br />
13 Indonesia 95’186 -33% 63’707 -2% 62’424<br />
14 Pakistan 67’418 -3% 65’559 -17% 54’596<br />
15 Egypt 44’712 8% 48’458 8% 52’122<br />
16 Thailand 48’457 -4% 46’628 -7% 43’354<br />
17 Hong Kong 164’314 -43% 93’411 -55% 41’708<br />
18 USA 41’510 -9% 37’829 10% 41’671<br />
19 Serbia 37’930 -2% 37’219 -17% 30’974<br />
20 Mauritius 39’619 -4% 37’883 -25% 28’427<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
The three biggest suppliers are China, Tunisia and Turkey. These<br />
three countries account for more than two thirds of the import share.<br />
Tunisia is also a strong OPT country for Italy, ranking on 2nd<br />
place in the above shown table.<br />
Extra-EU 27 5’605’889 2% 5’722’862 5% 6’002’287<br />
Intra-EU 27 3’838’826 3% 3’950’287 -3% 3’820’079<br />
Total 9’444’715 2% 9’673’149 2% 9’822’366<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 61
Intra EU imports into Italy remained constant over the period 2006<br />
to 2008. This imports accounts for 39% of the total outerwear<br />
clothing imports to Italy. Only Romania, which in ranking on the<br />
1st place and Hungary (ranking 10th) had constantly decreasing<br />
values over the period from 2006 to 2008.<br />
Table 45: Largest intra EU supplying countries of outerwear,<br />
2006-2008<br />
62<br />
Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from<br />
2006<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
2007 [‘000 €] Change from<br />
2007<br />
2008 [‘000 €]<br />
1 Romania 1’031’866 -16% 865’063 -5% 825’811<br />
2 France 656’167 11% 725’300 -5% 692’522<br />
3 Spain 260’587 28% 333’812 18% 395’027<br />
4 Belgium 306’036 11% 338’639 12% 379’088<br />
5 Germany 304’743 9% 331’168 -9% 301’442<br />
6 Bulgaria 221’171 2% 225’221 2% 229’919<br />
7 UK 165’151 18% 194’700 13% 220’946<br />
8 Netherlands 147’755 22% 180’373 1% 182’025<br />
9 Portugal 125’380 14% 143’076 -14% 123’179<br />
10 Hungary 258’008 -12% 226’398 -54% 105’074<br />
Intra-EU 27 3’838’826 3% 3950287 -3% 3’820’079<br />
Extra-EU 27 5’605’889 2% 5’722’862 5% 6’002’287<br />
Total 9’444’715 2% 9’673’149 2% 9’822’366<br />
Source: Eurostat 200<br />
4.4 Trade structure.<br />
4.4.1 Developments in retail trade<br />
The independent retailers, which are mainly run as family businesses,<br />
still have a strong market position. As stated previously,<br />
the role of the independent shops in Italy has diminished and<br />
many shops have had to close down because the owners could<br />
not find a successor for their business.<br />
Furthermore, a tremendous competition has arisen in the clothing<br />
market from clothing multiples and supermarkets that have<br />
discovered that selling clothing is a profitable business. As in<br />
other South European countries, in Italy the domestic production<br />
and distribution of clothing is closely linked. Many Italian clothing<br />
brands like Benetton, Marzotto Group etc. have built up their own<br />
retail system, often based on franchise partnerships all over the<br />
country. In Europe, however as in Italy itself, Italian clothing brands<br />
and collections have lost market share. The multiple shops of Italian<br />
clothing companies have tried to answer by ‘going public’, joint<br />
ventures and mergers, with partial success. With the money earned<br />
from giving out stocks, some Italian multiples have financed<br />
their expansion plans to buy other companies and brands, enlarge<br />
their production facilities or extend their distribution network.<br />
As shown in chapter 4.3, imports grew constantly and in particular<br />
low priced products were imported and sold in Italian super- and<br />
hypermarkets. In addition, formerly middle priced and high priced<br />
items are influenced by increasing imports.<br />
The Italian clothing association ‘Sistema Moda Italia’ states that<br />
the multiples in Italy cope better with the new challenges of cheap<br />
mass imports than many small companies. The developments<br />
in clothing retail are very much in favour of multiples like Sasch,<br />
Benetton, Gas etc. that are able to optimise stock keeping and act
efficiently in the market. The small companies however have less<br />
financial possibilities to follow the technical trends in research and<br />
development and to establish their own distribution system.<br />
Since the variety stores also import and take advantage of cheaper<br />
clothing from outside the country, this segment could have profited<br />
in terms of gaining market share. However, the market importance<br />
is not as much as was forecast years before. Variety shops<br />
have to fight against discounters or super- and hypermarkets not<br />
to lose their customers searching for mid-priced and middle quality<br />
items. Unlike previous years, these super- and hypermarkets<br />
nowadays offer good quality and very reasonable prices.<br />
Instead of only selling clothing, advanced managed Italian retailers<br />
(mainly multiples and department stores) also often offer cosmetics,<br />
bags, shoes, accessories and sometimes even stylish<br />
household articles. There is a trend that retailers in Italy put<br />
emphasis on a ‘lifestyle ambience’ in the outlets and appropriate<br />
surroundings like cafeteria or special places for children. The aim<br />
is to keep the customers in the shops as long as possible to motivate<br />
them to finally buy something.<br />
E-commerce and internet sales in Italy have fewer opportunities<br />
than in other European countries. Only very low growth rates of<br />
clothing sales through this distribution channel can be predicted,<br />
because the logistically similar structured mail-order business is<br />
very small as well. The Italian Post is not efficient and too slow<br />
and it is a real burden to run a proper mail-order or e-commerce<br />
business. Furthermore, Italian consumers like to touch the fabric<br />
and trying on the clothing. Italian consumers, having ordered via<br />
internet or mail-order, are generally not prepared to wait for the<br />
items bought for more than one week.<br />
A phenomenon in Italy are the so called street markets with a<br />
share of approximately 10%. North-Africans and increasingly Chinese<br />
dealers offer cheap (branded) and very fashionable clothing<br />
with minor faults at a reasonable quality. Obviously, some of the<br />
products are counterfeited. 8 out of 10 Italian consumers admit to<br />
buy from these mainly illegal market dealers. Most of the goods<br />
are smuggled from China, Morocco or elsewhere.<br />
Based on developments in the European clothing market, changes<br />
will also occur in the Italian retail sector.<br />
4.4.2 Leading retailers<br />
The largest clothing retailer is the well known Benetton Group<br />
which has 6'200 shops all over the world. The turnover was €<br />
2.1 billion in 2008. Benetton is both manufacturer and retailer<br />
and carries the brands United Colors of Benetton (UCB Kids and<br />
UCB Adults), Sisley, Playlife, and other brands for sportswear and<br />
sports equipment. The group’s strategy is to increase floor-space<br />
and to transform its shops into mega stores. The large shops are<br />
managed directly by Benetton (no franchising) and are located in<br />
historical town centres and main shopping centres. The new Benetton<br />
‘Megastores’ sell casual wear and underwear and accessories<br />
for women, men and children.<br />
Max Mara is an Italian fashion giant with a continuously growing<br />
turnover, about € 1.7 billion, with more than 2'254 shops in over<br />
100 countries. Max Mara operates 17 companies in the markets<br />
and owns more than 35 labels. The brand produces and distributes<br />
women's wear, mainly coats and suits.<br />
Stefanel has 691 mono brand stores of which 264 are directly<br />
operated stores. In the mega stores of Stefanel, brands other<br />
than Stefanel are also offered. The whole company has a turnover<br />
based on retail and production activities of € 275 million a year.<br />
Stefanel owns four production sites in Italy and one in Germany.<br />
The Coin Group is one of the leading European retailers for<br />
clothing, accessories, and household goods with a turnover of €<br />
1.2 billion in 2009. The retail chains Oviesse and Coin belong to<br />
the Coin Holding and are subsidiary companies for different market<br />
segments. Throughout Italy there are 299 shops and 19 are<br />
located in other countries. The Coin clothing range is produced by<br />
Manifatture di Fara SPA and Sirema Srl.<br />
LA RINASCENTE is the leading department store in Italy with a<br />
good reputation offering a wide product range including a wide variety<br />
in clothing. In 2008, the turnover of La Rinascente was € 420<br />
million. La Rinascente aims to be the most elegant department<br />
store. Like other retailers that pursue a quality strategy, the stores<br />
are attractively decorated for national and international customers.<br />
La Rinascente department stores are located in characteristic<br />
places in the city centres of the major Italian cities. La Rinascente<br />
sold its subsidiary company UPIM (€ 430 million turnover in 2009)<br />
to the Gruppo Coin.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 63
4.4.3 Distribution channels<br />
4.4.3.1 Retailers<br />
Table 46 gives an overview on the structure of the Italian clothing<br />
retail market from 2004 to 2008. The numbers indicate that independent<br />
retailers account for 48% of clothing retail and therefore<br />
represent nearly half of the market. As opposed to other European<br />
countries, where multiples have the largest share, in Italy only<br />
19% of the clothing is sold through these clothing chains. Hyperand<br />
supermarkets represent 10% and department stores account<br />
for 10% of the clothing retail distribution in Italy.<br />
Table 46: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]<br />
2004 2006 2008<br />
Specialists 69 68 67<br />
Independent retailers 51 49 48<br />
Clothing multiples 18 19 19<br />
Non-specialists 31 32 33<br />
Department/variety stores 10 10 10<br />
Home shopping companies 0 1 1<br />
Hyper- and supermarkets 9 10 10<br />
Sports stores 4 4 5<br />
Other 8 7 7<br />
Total 100 100 100<br />
Source: CBI<br />
4.4.3.1.1 Independent retailers<br />
The Italian clothing market is dominated by independent retailers.<br />
These are mainly family run clothing shops, and had a market<br />
share of 59% in 1995. Since then, the importance of independent<br />
retailers has dropped to a market share of 48% in 2008. Italian<br />
small retailers offer high-priced items with an emphasis on quality,<br />
brands, well designed outlets and service. These ‘boutique like’<br />
shops convince with ‘personal contact’ and good ‘availability’ by a<br />
dense allocation of the shops all over the country.<br />
Market share: 48% in 2008, Trend: Strongly Decreasing<br />
4.4.3.1.2 Clothing multiples<br />
In contrast to other EU countries, clothing multiples in Italy mainly<br />
belong to clothing manufacturers. The most prominent is Benetton.<br />
Other clothing brands with own shops are Stefanel (women's<br />
wear), Max Mara (women's wear), Prenatal (children's wear) or<br />
Chicco (children's wear). Since these clothing chains aim to sell<br />
their own collections, importers will have difficulties in selling to<br />
them. This situation is totally different to other countries like UK,<br />
64<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Germany or The Netherlands. The Italian clothing multiples only<br />
buy a few items to complete their product range. However, if they<br />
import clothing, then they buy directly and concentrate on basic<br />
items.<br />
Market share: 19% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing<br />
4.4.3.1.3 Department/variety stores<br />
There are two big department stores in Italy: La Rinascente and<br />
Gruppo Coin. The department stores in Italy have an amazingly<br />
large range of products to offer. For example, Coin offers women's<br />
clothing from outerwear, underwear, night and swimwear to jeans<br />
and sportswear. Beauty, fitness and shoes also have a major share<br />
in the range of products offered in the Coin stores.<br />
Market share: 10% in 2008, Trend: Slightly Increasing<br />
4.4.3.1.4 Mail-order houses<br />
Over the last years the Italian postal service has made some<br />
improvements. But still the mail-order business is little developed<br />
and has no real tradition as in other European countries. The leading<br />
mail-order company is ‘Postalmarket’. Although the German<br />
mail-order company Otto gained market importance, the mailorder<br />
market share has decreased to 1% and does not show any<br />
significant signs of change.<br />
Market share: 1% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing<br />
4.4.3.1.5 Hyper- and supermarkets<br />
While multiples and department stores often buy directly from manufacturers,<br />
the hyper- and supermarkets sometimes also make<br />
use of agents and importers/wholesalers based in Italy. These<br />
hyper- and supermarkets concentrate on cheap products and are<br />
direct buyers/importers of clothing for which they have installed<br />
purchasing departments and specialised buyers for clothing who<br />
also travel abroad to inspect the production partner on the spot.<br />
Hyper- and supermarkets in Italy only offer a limited range of<br />
clothing products; often the consumer finds knitwear like T-shirts<br />
and pullovers, casual trousers including jeans, underwear items,<br />
anoraks and all kinds of shirts. The major supermarkets, mainly<br />
located in the North of Italy, are Coop, Ipercoop, Gruppo Standa,<br />
Conad, Despar Italia and Esselunga. The share of clothing sold<br />
through hyper- and supermarkets is slightly but continuously increasing,<br />
reaching a level of 10% in 2008.<br />
Market share: 10% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing
4.4.3.1.6 Sport stores<br />
Sport stores in Italy only offer a limited range of clothing products<br />
specialised to fit to numerous sporting disciplines.<br />
Market share: 5% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing<br />
4.4.3.1.7 Others<br />
Open (street) markets and consumer fairs are often supplied by<br />
specialised wholesalers that import directly from emerging and developing<br />
countries. Markets and fairs traditionally play an important<br />
role in Italy. However, the wholesalers involved in this fair and open<br />
market business also buy good quality fashion products that are<br />
sold at these fairs as well. Since the traders exhibiting on those<br />
open markets have to react quickly to market trends, they also buy<br />
selected clothing items from domestic manufacturers.<br />
Market share: 7% in 2008, Trend: Slightly decreasing<br />
4.4.3.2 Sales intermediaries<br />
4.4.3.2.1 Clothing manufacturers<br />
Clothing manufacturers in Italy often run their own shops to be<br />
independent from retailers. Manufacturers only buy a small share<br />
of their collection from foreign manufacturers, mainly in order to<br />
complete the existing product range. Large scale clothing manufacturers<br />
in Italy are e.g. Benetton, Sixty, Replay, Diesel, Gas, Stefanel,<br />
Max Mara, Prenatal, Marzotto or Chicco. The small clothing<br />
companies are concentrated in so-called ‘conzorzii’ in Biella/Piémont<br />
region (woollen products, coats, jackets, suits), Como-Lecco/<br />
Lombardie (silk, woollen products, coats, jackets, suits), Emilia<br />
Romagna (all kind of textiles), Tuscany (woollen products, coats,<br />
jackets, suits).<br />
4.4.3.2.2 Sales agents<br />
As the retailers are scattered all over Italy and difficult to reach<br />
from overseas markets, collaboration with an agent is common in<br />
Italy and generally recommended for better market penetration.<br />
Most of the agents are concentrated in the North of Italy and operate<br />
with sub-agents in central and southern Italy. The commission<br />
for an agent covering the whole of Italy is about 10%-15%. Independent<br />
regional sales agents take between 5% and 10%.<br />
4.4.3.2.3 Importers and wholesalers<br />
Italian importers operate nationwide and mainly ask for the ‘exclusive<br />
distribution rights’ for the whole of Italy. Importers/wholesalers<br />
in the classical sense tend to be few in Italy, because of the high<br />
competition within the distribution system and the strong position<br />
of the clothing brands with their own efficient outlets. The importers<br />
can often only position themselves by a ‘low price strategy’, e.g.<br />
by sourcing basic fashion items in emerging and developing<br />
countries. The role of Italian importers is getting less important,<br />
because dealing and importing of clothing (being a fashion item<br />
with its up and downs in sales) is increasingly seen as a risk. National<br />
manufacturers try to avoid collaboration with Italian importers<br />
because they have the image of being too expensive. Similar<br />
advantages and disadvantages may occur when dealing with Italian<br />
wholesalers. Wholesalers in Italy normally act only within their<br />
region to be more flexible for local markets and fairs. The Italian<br />
wholesalers mainly buy from local producers. Italian wholesalers<br />
also tend be very spontaneous in their choice with a strong tendency<br />
not to bind themselves in long-term business partnerships.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 65
4.5 Italian fashion trade fairs.<br />
The Italian market for fashion fairs is quite clearly structured according<br />
to their main product segments. The main cities for fashion<br />
fairs with European recognition are Milan and Florence. Italian<br />
fashion fairs like the ‘International Menswear Fair ‘Pitti Uomo’ still<br />
has an international excellent reputation and in fact buyers from<br />
all over the world tend to visit these international fashion events.<br />
The exhibitors at Moda Prima in Milan are manufacturers of ready<br />
to wear clothing from Italy and from countries like France, Spain,<br />
UK and Germany, Eastern Europe and Asia. The trade show aims<br />
to address major Italian retailers like department stores, chains<br />
and mail-order companies, but also wholesalers, importers and<br />
trading companies. The fair also gives space to manufacturers of<br />
non-exclusive clothing. Only one out of four sections is reserved for<br />
Italian manufacturers. Moda Prima seems to be the most suitable<br />
clothing fair for manufacturers from developing and emerging<br />
markets wishing to increase their sales to Italy. The most important<br />
fashion fair for women's wear is the Milano Moda Donna in<br />
February and September each year. The main fashion fair for<br />
men's wear is the Pitti Uomo which is quite small but of absolutely<br />
international importance with many buyers from overseas. The<br />
table of the specialised clothing fairs below only includes events<br />
with an international approach.<br />
Table 47: Italian fashion trade fairs 2010<br />
66<br />
Trade fair Date <strong>Location</strong><br />
Milano Moda Uomo 16. - 19.01.2010 Milan<br />
Milano Moda Showroom 18.01. - 07.02.2010 Milan<br />
Milano Unica - International Textile Fair 16. - 18.02.2010 Milan<br />
MODA IN - TESSUTO & ACCESSORI (Part of Milano Unica) 16. - 18.02.2010 Milan<br />
Ready to show 17. - 19.02.2010 Milan<br />
Milano Moda Donna fall/winter 2010/2011 24.02. - 03.03.2010 Milan<br />
MI Milano pret-à-porter (former Milanon Vende Moda) 26.02. - 01.03.2010 Milan<br />
Pitti immagine uomo 28.02. 03.03.2010 Florence<br />
Milano Moda Design 13. - 19.04.2010 Milan<br />
Milano Moda Pre Collezioni Spring 18.05. - 18.06.2010 Milan<br />
Moda Prima 22. - 24.05.2010 Milan<br />
Pitti immagine uomo 15. - 18.06.2010 Florence<br />
SI SPOSAITALIA COLLEZIONI 18. - 21.06.2010 Milan<br />
Milano Moda Donna spring/summer 2011 22. - 29.09.2010 Milan<br />
Milano Moda Pre Collezioni Fall 16.11. - 16.12.2010 Milan<br />
Moda Prima 27. - 29.11.2010 Milan<br />
Source: Gherzi research<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010
4.6 List of major buyers in Italy.<br />
Clothing chain stores<br />
Arimo S.r.l.<br />
Via Libertà 52<br />
I-20029 Turbigo (Mi)<br />
Tel.: +39 0331 890814<br />
Fax: +39 0331 898079<br />
info@arimo.it<br />
www.arimo.it<br />
Arteni Spa<br />
Via Nazionale, 133-141<br />
I - 33010 Tavagnacco (UD)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 432 661288<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 432 660624<br />
info@arteni.it<br />
www.arteni.it<br />
Bernardi SpA<br />
Via dell’ industria 1<br />
I - 33050 Ronchis (Ud)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 431 568111<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 431 567066<br />
info@bernardi.it<br />
www.bernardi.it<br />
Jeune Srl<br />
123/125, V. del Casale Santarelli<br />
I - 00040 Roma (RM)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 6 7984 5219<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 6 7984 5931<br />
jeune@jeune.it<br />
www.jeune.it<br />
La Cicogna srl<br />
Piazzale Biancamano 1<br />
I - 20154 Milano<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 233 605725<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 233 605725<br />
Product range: underwear,<br />
swim- and beachwear<br />
Price segment: mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 126<br />
Product range: ladies’,<br />
men’s, childrenswear,<br />
sportswear<br />
Price segment: mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 14<br />
Product range: ladies’,<br />
menswear<br />
Price segment: lower level<br />
Number of outlets: 150<br />
Product range: womenswear,<br />
young fashion<br />
Price segment: mid to<br />
higher level<br />
Number of outlets: 9<br />
Product range: childrenswear<br />
Price segment: mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 10<br />
Modifin SpA<br />
Via Manzoni, 38<br />
I - 20121 Milano<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 7609 3558<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 7609 3550<br />
Mango (head office in Spain)<br />
Mercaders 9-11<br />
P.I. Riera de Caldes<br />
Apartado de Correos 280<br />
ES-08184 Palau-solità i Plegamans<br />
(Barcelona) Spain<br />
Tel.: +34 93 860 24 24<br />
Fax: +34 93 860 22 07<br />
www.mango.es<br />
Nico Garda SpA<br />
Via S. Zeno, 67<br />
I - 36022 Cassola (VI)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 424 570630<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 424 570703<br />
www.nico.it<br />
www.grupponico.com<br />
Zara (Head office in Spain)<br />
Via Morimondo, 26<br />
I - 20143 Milano<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2818 00 81<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 2891 52 424<br />
www.zara.com<br />
Product range: Men’s and<br />
womenswear<br />
Price segment: high level<br />
Number of outlets: 20<br />
Note: Manufacturer and<br />
retailer<br />
Product range:<br />
Womenswear<br />
Price segment: mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 11<br />
Product range:<br />
all kinds of clothing<br />
Price segment: low<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
11 Italy, 12 EU, 3 US<br />
Note: app. 100 employees<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies, men’s,<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment: mid level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
67 in Italy<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 67
Jeans- sportswear and young fashion<br />
68<br />
M.J.F.<br />
Mohave Jeans Factory<br />
Zona ind. Corropoli<br />
I - 64013 Corropoli (TE)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 8 6183 90425<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 8 6183 9197<br />
info@mohave.it<br />
www.mohave.it<br />
Fornari Spa<br />
Zona Ind.le ’A’<br />
I - 62012 Civitanova Marche<br />
(MC)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 7 3389 5511<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 7 3389 5518<br />
fornari@fornari.com<br />
www.fornari.com<br />
JDS (James Dillon Sport<br />
Wear) SpA<br />
20/22, Via Vittine di Bologna<br />
I - 10024 Moucalivi (TO)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 11 6402115<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 892 210214<br />
www.jdsinternational.com<br />
Mazzorato Moda<br />
Via della Croce, 18 - Castelnumio<br />
I - 31023 Resana<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 423 484191<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 423 484184<br />
www.mazzorato.com<br />
Sport’85 srl<br />
V. Piave, km 68.600<br />
I - 04100 Latina (LT)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 773 48 6456<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 773 60 624<br />
www.sport85.it<br />
Teddy SpA<br />
Via Coriano, 58 – Grosrimini<br />
BL.97<br />
I - 47900 Rimini (RN)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 541 301411<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 541 383430<br />
info@teddy.it<br />
www.teddy.it<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Product range: Denim<br />
Price segment: mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 12<br />
Product range:<br />
young fashion<br />
Price segment: mid level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
31 own, 39 dep.<br />
stores, 3’500 multi-brands<br />
Note: Brand ‘Fornarina’<br />
Product range:<br />
Sports-, casual-, denimwear<br />
for ladies and men<br />
Price segment: mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 8<br />
Product range:<br />
womenswear<br />
Price segment: lower level<br />
Number of outlets: 17<br />
Product range:<br />
ladies’, men’s wear<br />
Product range:<br />
jeans and casualwear<br />
Price segment: lower level<br />
Number of outlets: 24<br />
Product range:<br />
womenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid to upper level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
370 worldwide<br />
Diesel Italia<br />
Via dell’ Industria 7<br />
I - 36063 Marostica (Vi)<br />
Tel.: + 39 (0) – 424 4855<br />
Fax: + 39 (0) – 424 471 131<br />
www.diesel.com<br />
Fashion Box<br />
Industries SpA<br />
Via Marcoai, 1<br />
I - 31010 Asolo (TV)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 423 9251<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 423 925299<br />
www.replay.it<br />
Sixty Groupe SpA<br />
Via Erasmo Piaggio, 35<br />
I - 66013 Chieti<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 871 5891<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 871 562496<br />
misssixty@misssixty.com<br />
www.misssixty.com<br />
COIN Spa<br />
Via Terraglio, 17<br />
I - 30174 Venezia (VE)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 41 2398000<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 41 982722<br />
www.coin.it<br />
www.gruppocoin.it<br />
Department stores<br />
l Vecchio Continente Srl<br />
Corso Alfieri 293<br />
I - 14100 Asti (AT)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 141 31336<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 141 35 889<br />
Rinascente UPIM Spa<br />
15, C. Ventidue Marzo<br />
I - 20129 Milano (MI)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 5990 2457<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 5990 23 29<br />
www.upim.it<br />
Product range:<br />
jeans and casualwear<br />
Price segment: mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 26<br />
Product range:<br />
jeans and casualwear<br />
Price segment: mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 26<br />
Product range:<br />
casualwear for ladies<br />
Price segment:<br />
lower to mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 16<br />
Product range:<br />
men’s, ladies’ and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid to upper level<br />
Number of outlets: 359<br />
Note: largest department<br />
store in Italy<br />
Product range: men’s,<br />
ladies’ and childrenswear<br />
Price segment: lower level<br />
Number of outlets: 10<br />
Product range: men’s,<br />
ladies’ and childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
lower to mid level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
147 stores<br />
+ 230 franchise partners<br />
Note:<br />
belongs to La Rinascente
Mail order companies<br />
G.D.A. SpA<br />
Via Lenticchia, 24<br />
I - 22100 Como (CO)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 31 5001111<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 31 5001191<br />
shirty@gda.it<br />
www.gda.it<br />
Grocery super- and hypermarkets<br />
C.I.S. COOP Italia<br />
Non-Alimentari r.l.<br />
24, p. Mercant<br />
I - 50019 Sesto Fiorentino<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 55 444840<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 55 4481243<br />
www.e-coop.it<br />
Euromadis<br />
Via Christoforo Colombo, 51<br />
I - 20090 Trezzano sul<br />
Naviglion<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 48402900<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 48402038<br />
Metro SpA<br />
Via di Torre Spaccata. 172,<br />
lotto 3<br />
I – 00169 Roma<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 6 454 97 100<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 6 454 97 190<br />
info@metrocspa.it<br />
www.metrocspa.it<br />
CONAD Consorzio<br />
Nationale<br />
Dettaglianti scarl<br />
Via Michelino, 59<br />
I - 40127 Bologna<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 51 508111<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 51 508414<br />
www.conad.it<br />
Gruppo Despar Italia<br />
Via Caldera, 21<br />
I - 20137 Milano<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 409091<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 40918177<br />
Lombardini Holding SpA<br />
Via Provinciale, 80<br />
I - 24044 Dalmine BG<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 35 432 0111<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 35 4320580<br />
Manufacturers / importers and wholesalers / importers<br />
G. Armani Spa<br />
Via Borgonuovo 11<br />
I - 20121 Milano<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 723181<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 8054102<br />
www.giorgioarmani.com<br />
Product range: children’s,<br />
babies’<br />
Belvest spa<br />
V. Corsica, 55<br />
I - 35016 Piazzola sul Brenta<br />
(PD)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 49 969 9111<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 49 559 8759<br />
www.belvest.com<br />
Benetton Group SpA<br />
Villa Minelli 1<br />
I - 31050 Ponzano Veneto<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 422 519111<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 422 969501<br />
info@benetton.it<br />
www.benetton.com<br />
Cadena Italia srl<br />
V. Leopardi, 31<br />
I - 22075 Lurate Caccivio (CO)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 31 391030<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 31 391040<br />
Casucci Spa<br />
Vl. Abruzzi<br />
I - 64016 Sant’Egidio alle<br />
Vibrata<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 8 618 481<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 8 618 41860<br />
www.casucci.it<br />
Fashion Group srl<br />
V. Tiburtina, 643<br />
I - 00159 Roma (RM)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 6 438 5972<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 6 438 6671<br />
www.class-fashion.com<br />
Forall Confezioni Spa<br />
V. F. Filzi, 34<br />
I - 36050 Quinto Vicentino (VI)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 444 35 6096<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 444 35 7064<br />
www.sartoriale.it<br />
www.palzileri.it<br />
Product: ladies’, menswear<br />
Manufacturer + wholesaler<br />
Note: 7’000 stores in 120<br />
countries<br />
Manufacturer + wholesaler<br />
Product: jeans and sportswear<br />
Product: Womenswear<br />
Manufacturer + wholesaler<br />
Product: Menswear<br />
Manufacturer + wholesaler<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 69
Manufacturers / importers and wholesalers / importers<br />
70<br />
Immagine Di Quattrocchi<br />
SAS Abbigliamente<br />
V. Umberto I, 209<br />
I - 98051 Barcellona Pozzo di<br />
Gotto (ME)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 90 979 5867<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 90 979 5867<br />
KOKO Srl<br />
V. Lombardia, 8<br />
I - 25025 Manerbio (BS)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 30 993 8422<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 30 993 8452<br />
www.koko.it<br />
Max Mara Fashion Group Srl<br />
Sede Legale<br />
via del Carmine,10 - Torino -<br />
Italia<br />
Tel: +39 02 777.921<br />
Fax: +39 02 777.92801<br />
info@maxmarafashiongroup.<br />
com<br />
www.maxmarafashiongroup.<br />
com/it<br />
Miniconf srl<br />
52010 Ortignano Raggiolo<br />
(AR)<br />
T: + 39 0575 5331<br />
info@miniconf.it<br />
www.miniconf.it<br />
Marzotto S.p.A.<br />
Via Turati 16/18<br />
I - 20121 Milano<br />
marzotto@marzotto.it<br />
www.marzotto.it<br />
Pado Tonali SpA<br />
Via Cesare Battisti 3<br />
I - 21045 Gazzada Schianno<br />
(VA)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 332 464233<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 332 464158<br />
tonalispa@paolotonali.it<br />
www.paolotonali.it<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Product:<br />
children’s, womenswear<br />
Manufacturer + wholesaler<br />
+ retailer<br />
Product: womenswear<br />
Manufacturer + wholesaler<br />
+ retailer<br />
shops<br />
Products:<br />
womenswear –<br />
upper segment<br />
Buying associations<br />
Cooperativa Legler Società<br />
Cooperativa<br />
Via Carducci, 5 - 24030 Presezzo<br />
(BG)<br />
Tel. +39.035.41.58.111<br />
Fax +39.035.41.58.126<br />
info@cooperativalegler.it<br />
www.cooperativelegler.it<br />
Euroconfezioni Soc.coop.r.l.<br />
39, v. Bellini<br />
I - 89055 Reggio Calabria<br />
(RC)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 965 371878<br />
Mob.: +39 0349 4049055<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 965 371878<br />
euroconf@libero.it<br />
Buying of all kinds of<br />
clothing<br />
Buying centres,<br />
supermarkets, retail<br />
shops<br />
Buying cooperation,<br />
manufacturer,<br />
retailer<br />
All kinds of outerwear,<br />
sportswear, workwear
5. Spain.<br />
5.1 General economic situation.<br />
When Spain acceded to EU membership in 1986, its people were<br />
among the most enthusiastic of Europeans. The country has done<br />
well from its membership by investing in roads, railways and modern<br />
infrastructure. But now the gilt is wearing off; there are more<br />
eurosceptics and less interest in decisions made in Brussels or the<br />
men and women who are supposed to represent them in the European<br />
Parliament. Strasbourg is a long way from the Cortes (parliament)<br />
in Madrid and Spanish political parties are less interested in<br />
European issues than in their approval rating at home.<br />
Unemployment in 2009 reached 18.8%, the highest in Europe, and<br />
there are predictions that it could reach 20 per cent before things<br />
improve.<br />
A report from the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and<br />
Development (OECD) has painted a bleak picture predicting<br />
economic contraction of 4.2% in 2009, considerably worse than<br />
the 3 % prediction of the Bank of Spain.<br />
The speed of the recession has been striking. In 2007 Spain was<br />
running a record public sector budget surplus of 2.2% of GDP, but<br />
in 2009 it will have a deficit of nearly 10%. Within the Euro-zone,<br />
only Ireland’s public spending deficit has risen faster. The governor<br />
of the Bank of Spain has warned that government debt could<br />
exceed 60% of GDP in 2010, up from less than 40% at the end of<br />
last year.<br />
Further evidence of the economic crisis can be seen in recent<br />
figures on house sales, which fell a record 47.6% in April 2009<br />
compared to the same month in 2008. House sales have been<br />
falling for 16 months, but this was the sharpest year-on-year<br />
decline to date. The National Confederation of Construction has<br />
estimated that around 600'000 homes around Spain remain unsold<br />
and a decline in the construction sector of 12.8% in 2009 hit the<br />
construction sector.<br />
Much of the growth in the Spanish economy was based on a<br />
housing bubble that has now burst. Between 2001 and 2007 Spain<br />
accounted for around a third of new-build properties in the European<br />
Union. The property crash had a huge impact on the major<br />
banks and the regional savings banks, which rested on mortgages<br />
and loans to property developers. Bad loans have quadrupled in<br />
2009 and there has been a rapid rise in defaults.<br />
The housing bubble was fed by a chain of finance based on the<br />
sale of bonds. This was swept away by the credit crunch. At its<br />
peak the Spanish current account deficit was nominally the world’s<br />
second highest, behind only the United States. This was in spite of<br />
the fact that Spain has a population of only 45 million.<br />
5.2 The market for outerwear.<br />
5.2.1 Market size<br />
Unlike in other Western and Northern European countries, the<br />
textile and clothing industry is an important industrial sector in the<br />
Spanish economy with 215'000 direct employed persons and 4%<br />
contribution to the GDP.<br />
Spain is a major world producer of textiles and apparel and the<br />
country’s economy relies heavily on this sector. The Asian crisis<br />
and the low growth of other world markets caused a strong entrance<br />
of foreign textile products into European markets including<br />
Spain, creating fierce competition, especially after the MFA<br />
expired at beginning of 2005.<br />
Since the introduction of the Euro in 2002, Spaniards have followed<br />
the European trend of spending less.<br />
Spain ranks fourth among the EU after Italy, France and Germany<br />
but has a stronger textile production base than e.g. UK.<br />
The Consejo Intertextil Espanol reports that the total production<br />
in 2008 for men’s, women’s and children’s outerwear amounted to<br />
approx. € 10.4 billion the same amount of 2007. During the same<br />
time period imports have decreased by -0.7%, but projections<br />
show that imports will again rise by an average of 10% per year.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 71
Table 48: Evolution of the Spanish textile and clothing sector [€ million]<br />
72<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 CAGR<br />
Employees [‚000] 243.3 223.2 206.0 169.5 182.3 -7%<br />
Production 12’790 11’650 11’415 10’390 10’390 -5%<br />
Import 10’031 11’011 12’336 13’383 13’281 7%<br />
Export 6’627 6’659 7’356 7’814 8’005 5%<br />
Trade balance -3’404 -4’352 -4’980 -5’569 -5’276 12%<br />
Source: Consejo Intertextil Expanol, 2008<br />
5.2.2 Market characteristics<br />
The situation in the apparel market can be characterized as<br />
follows:<br />
The total Spanish clothing industry is highly fragmented with 3'900<br />
clothing manufacturers. The production is to a great extent outsourced<br />
to small and medium-sized workshops. Many large companies<br />
are looking for lower labour costs in other countries such as Portugal,<br />
Morocco and Tunisia. 2/3 of total Spanish clothing exports go<br />
to other European markets. The main clothing suppliers’ are China<br />
and Portugal, and the main customers are Portugal and France.<br />
Innovation, just-in-time supplement, continual renewal of stock with<br />
the most recent fashion trends and satisfying customer demands<br />
are immediate success formulas of the largest Spanish companies.<br />
Clothing sales through internet are less successful than in other<br />
European countries like <strong>Switzerland</strong>, Germany, Netherlands or UK.<br />
Only 1% of the Spanish population uses the internet for shopping<br />
purposes. The general aversion to computers, problems with logistics<br />
and lack of amusement during the purchase are reasons for<br />
the low rate of e-commerce-based clothing purchases.<br />
In general, the outerwear market can be divided into several<br />
segments based on type of product combined with type of activity,<br />
resulting in a specific clothing behaviour, like formal or classic,<br />
(smart) casual, leisure and active sports.<br />
Purchases in volume of women’s formal clothing decreased in the<br />
period 2006-2008, caused by fewer purchases of suits, ensembles<br />
and indoor jackets, while purchases of women’s casual and leisurewear<br />
(outdoor jackets, cotton trousers, including jeans, shorts)<br />
increased in the review period.<br />
Purchases in volume of men’s formal woven outerwear stabilized;<br />
casual and leisurewear dominate in men’s expenditure.<br />
Sales of woven outerwear for boys’ wear grew to a lesser degree<br />
than girls’ wear and, especially, babies’ wear. Leisure and casual<br />
items such as jeans and other cotton trousers, shorts and outdoor<br />
jackets remained rather popular. Expenditure on active sportswear<br />
in the children’s sector had a market share of 14% in 2008. Among<br />
boys, the popularity of sportswear brands stabilized.<br />
5.2.3 Demographic characteristics<br />
According to figure 5, out of 46.2 million Spaniards, the major<br />
population segment is between 25 and 39 years of age (approx.<br />
10 million – male and female). This age group is followed by<br />
those between the age of 40 and 44 years (approx. 3.4 million<br />
people). Spain’s major target group is more than 5 years younger<br />
compared to other Northern European countries. Therefore, the<br />
young fashion and sportswear segment, being the preferred dress<br />
style by these age groups, offers good sales opportunities for<br />
clothing manufacturers from abroad covering this segment. As<br />
in all countries analysed for this survey, children and teenagers<br />
have a low share in the total population. Only approx. 8 million<br />
Spanish citizens are younger than 20 years old. The prospects for<br />
the children's wear sector are not positive: in the year 2008, only 2<br />
million children were between 5 and 9 years old and represented<br />
the smallest age group of all (except those over 75 years old). The<br />
export manager from abroad wishing to enter or to sell more in<br />
the Spanish clothing market should follow and/or anticipate these<br />
developments and be prepared to further develop his collection<br />
according to the demands of the targeted age groups.
Figure 5: Age structure of Spanish population by gender, 2008<br />
Source: US Census Bureau, International Data Base<br />
9 5 - 9 9<br />
9 0 - 9 4<br />
8 5 - 9 0<br />
8 0 - 8 5<br />
75 -79<br />
70 -74<br />
6 5 - 6 9<br />
6 0 - 6 4<br />
5 5 - 59<br />
50 - 5 4<br />
4 5 - 49<br />
4 0 - 4 4<br />
3 5 - 3 9<br />
3 0 - 3 4<br />
25 -29<br />
20 -24<br />
15 -19<br />
10 -14<br />
5 - 9<br />
0 - 4<br />
male female<br />
2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0<br />
5.2.4 Retail sales by product category and gender<br />
The Spanish clothing market can be divided into four major product<br />
groups: formal, casual, leisure and active sportswear.<br />
Spanish women wear often feminine and stylish clothes, but are<br />
critical about comfort and quality. They also have higher preferences<br />
for national brands and make their purchasing decision<br />
based on comfort, quality and design.<br />
Spanish men aged over 40 are classic dressers and reserve the<br />
greatest part of their annual clothing budget for a smart suit, while<br />
younger men in Spain are more fashion-conscious and spent more<br />
on clothing in the last few years than before. Men over 40 are still<br />
classically dressed and often wear a suit.<br />
In general, the outerwear market can be divided into several<br />
segments based on type of product combined with type of activity,<br />
resulting in a specific clothing behaviour.<br />
Spanish people prefer casual clothing for their daily life, largely<br />
supported by young people. The increasing demand for jeans<br />
and other cotton trousers, knitted products like T-shirts, sweaters,<br />
jumpers, pullovers etc. and sportswear illustrates the popularity of<br />
casual/leisure wear.<br />
Population in millions<br />
Table 49: Market share of outerwear by product category and<br />
gender, 2003 and 2007 [%]<br />
Women Men<br />
2003 2007 2003 2007<br />
Formal 27 25 25 22<br />
Casual 48 49 41 42<br />
Leisure 18 18 24 25<br />
Active sports 7 8 10 11<br />
Total 100 100 100 100<br />
Source: Euromonitor, Eurostat<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 73
5.2.5 Consumer behaviour<br />
5.2.5.1 Consumer preferences<br />
Women and label-conscious urban young people tend to be the<br />
major target group in the Spanish apparel sector. Consumers in<br />
Spain attach a great deal of importance to fashion and are beginning<br />
to care more and more about what they wear, giving special<br />
awareness to brand names. Interviews and trend research in Spain<br />
have proved that professional women have a general preference<br />
for wearing natural materials, dark colours, comfortable styles and<br />
classic designs. In contrast, in the North of Spain, light colours are<br />
trendier. Six out of ten Spanish women regard quality as the main<br />
aspect in their buying decision while 30% feel that design is the<br />
most important criterion. Surprisingly, price is the most important<br />
decision factor for only 10% of women, in contrast to attitudes in<br />
Northern EU countries and <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />
Spanish clothing consumers can be briefly characterized by the<br />
following statements:<br />
• The Spanish consumers do not have a tendency to prefer the<br />
same shop; instead, they look for diversity in their shopping locations.<br />
• Although this habit has decreased, approximately 18% of<br />
Spaniards still go shopping with their families/relatives (in com<br />
parison: European average is only 9% in this respect). -<br />
Spaniards buy clothing 7-8 times a year (on average), which is<br />
below the European average of 9-10 times a year. The exception<br />
are young consumers from 16 to 34; their average is more than<br />
10 purchases per year.<br />
• Spaniards pay increasing attention to brand names – especially<br />
young consumers and service quality.<br />
• The country of origin of the product purchased is for Spanish<br />
consumers mostly irrelevant.<br />
• Spanish consumers are less ecologically conscious e.g. compa<br />
red to the Swiss, Germans or the Scandinavians, and requests<br />
for ‘ecological standards’ in terms of clothing presently can only<br />
be observed in large cities like Madrid and Barcelona.<br />
The differences in consumer preferences compared to other<br />
Western European countries like <strong>Switzerland</strong> and Germany is the<br />
cut of ladies outerwear. Due to the average smaller size of Spanish<br />
74<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
women, the pattern is slimmer in Spain (e.g. a Swiss/German size<br />
38 is size 40 to 42 in Spain). Also trousers with ‘extra length’ (like<br />
36 and 38 are rarely in demand).<br />
5.2.5.2 Consumer expenditure<br />
Consumer spending on clothing in Spain is below average levels<br />
in other European countries. Average spending on clothing in 2009<br />
amounts to € 492 per capita, which is clearly below Italy’s rate of €<br />
733. It also decreased in comparison to Spanish total consumption.<br />
It is obvious that expenditure on clothing depends to some extent<br />
on the geographical zones. Firstly, the reason for these differences<br />
is the social life, the income and the prestige, which play<br />
an important role in the North of the country. Secondly, the climate<br />
influences expenditure on clothing, e.g. in the colder North, the<br />
relatively more expensive outerwear items like coats, jackets etc.<br />
increase the per capita consumption in value terms. The ‘economic<br />
centres’ are the regions with the highest readiness to spend money<br />
for clothing like Cantabria, Navarra, Rioja and Ceuta/Melilla.<br />
According to industry sources, women’s expenditure on outerwear<br />
amount to approximately 50% of the total consumer expenditure<br />
on outerwear clothing. More details about the structure of Spanish<br />
outerwear consumption can be taken from table below.<br />
Table 50: Consumer expenditure on outerwear clothing<br />
2004 2006 2008 2009<br />
Women [€ bn] 10.0 10.6 10.9 10.1<br />
Men [€ bn] 5.9 6.3 6.3 5.9<br />
Children<br />
(aged 3-14) [€ bn]<br />
2.9 3.1 3.2 3.1<br />
Total [€ bn] 18.8 20.0 20.4 19.1<br />
Source: Analysis based on CBI<br />
5.2.6 Price development of clothing<br />
As the Spanish clothing market is still dominated by the strong<br />
national clothing production, price developments also depend on<br />
the national industry to a large extent.<br />
The national consumer price index grew with a CAGR of 2.2%<br />
from 2006 to 2009 (national consumer price index 2006=100,<br />
2009=106.8) compared to the clothing (including shoes) price<br />
index which fell by an average of -0.1% per year from 2006 to<br />
2009 (clothing (and shoes) price index 2006=100, 2009=99.75).
The strong increase of clothing imports, mainly from developing<br />
countries into Spain has led to more competition and has limited<br />
the inflation for clothing items. The production costs for clothing in<br />
Spain have been lower (e.g. for labour, logistics, marketing) compared<br />
to Western European countries, the price level for apparel<br />
has been approximately 10% lower.<br />
According to the Textile and <strong>Outerwear</strong> Information Centre (CI-<br />
TYC) in Barcelona, the mark-up for a Spanish retailer ‘theoretically’<br />
is at 100%; in practical terms, due to sales and reductions, figures<br />
run at only 70%. This tendency to stronger price reductions, lower<br />
margins and a European wide price adaptation can be stated for<br />
all countries of the Euro zone covered by this market survey.<br />
For men or boys<br />
2006 2007 2008<br />
Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.01) 1’660 31’622 1’845 34’432 4’060 43’383<br />
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts<br />
etc. (61.03)<br />
7’869 73’397 11’037 78’991 10’552 79’206<br />
Shirts (61.05) 7’525 169’910 7’456 183’269 76’923 192’434<br />
Sub Total 17’053 274’929 20’337 296’692 91’535 315’022<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 16’881 134’622 20’288 142’652 19’457 161’406<br />
For women or girls<br />
5.3 Imports.<br />
5.3.1 Total imports<br />
The imports of outerwear clothing to Spain increased by 8.6%<br />
from 2007 to 2008.<br />
Table 51 and table 52 give a more detailed survey on the imports<br />
from 2006 to 2008 divided into imports of knitted outerwear and<br />
imports of woven outerwear.<br />
Looking at the 2008 total figures in table 51, the import share of<br />
men’s knitted outerwear clothing (knitted and woven) at 3.5% (=<br />
€ 0.3 million) less than the half of women import (7.7% = € 0.7<br />
million). The import share of knitted outerwear for both genders<br />
was 29.6% with € 2.7 billion. Knitted sportswear items add up to €<br />
0.3 billion, a 3.0 % import share.<br />
Knitted outerwear for women or girls has the highest growth<br />
rates with +59.3% from 2006 to 2008 (value) followed by knitted<br />
outerwear for men with an increase of +19.9% in the same period.<br />
It is obvious that these product segments with the highest import<br />
growth rates offer the best sales opportunities for manufacturers<br />
from abroad. The total import of knitted products into Spain increased<br />
in terms of value from 2006 to 2008 by 21.5%.<br />
Table 51: Imports of knitted outerwear by gender and product<br />
categories, 2006-2008<br />
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.02) 1’429 40’229 1’741 51’982 68’751 100’602<br />
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, dresses,<br />
skirts etc. (61.04)<br />
16’221 238’419 23’463 347’689 211’976 442’543<br />
Blouses and shirts (61.06) 2’283 113’644 2’166 137’126 69’483 161’866<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 75
Sub Total 19’933 392’292 27’370 536’797 350’210 705’012<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 19’230 178’715 27’268 227’588 24’809 284’749<br />
For both genders<br />
T-shirts, singlets etc. (61.09) 44’025 1’072’931 49’159 1’165’774 97’079 1’103’070<br />
Jersey, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats,<br />
etc. (61.10)<br />
43’336 982’295 39’882 1’070’531 148’322 1’303’971<br />
Babies’ garments (61.11) 74’004 189’385 81’355 218’250 73’256 197’099<br />
Garments rubberised, impregnated,<br />
etc. (61.13)<br />
345 7’437 592 9’890 714 12’363<br />
Gloves, mittens and mitts (61.16) 3’727 41’761 3’836 43’374 13’662 41’680<br />
Other made-up clothing accessories<br />
(61.17)<br />
4’170 38’290 4’213 33’559 4’055 39’826<br />
Sub Total 169’607 2’332’098 179’037 2’541’378 337’087 2’698’009<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 98’452 1’180’680 102’600 1’285’865 120’174 1’382’790<br />
Active Sportswear<br />
Track suits, ski suits and swimwear<br />
(61.12)<br />
12’264 159’435 17’383 165’009 81’332 168’236<br />
Special garments for professional<br />
sporting or other purposes (61.14)<br />
67’299 137’309 24’384 123’780 6’763 119’911<br />
Sub Total 79’564 296’745 41’767 288’789 88’094 288’147<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 16’697 152’772 22’143 141’514 11’935 124’556<br />
TOTAL 286’157 3’296’065 268’512 3’663’656 866’925 4’006’190<br />
TOTAL EXTRA EU 151’259 1’646’789 172’299 1’797’620 176’374 1’953’501<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
Generally speaking, imports to Spain in almost all woven product<br />
categories have increased year by year since 2006. Looking at<br />
the total imports of woven outerwear for women or girls, imports<br />
from 2006 to 2008 in value terms increased more strongly than for<br />
men. The imports of woven men’s or boys’ outerwear increased by<br />
16.1% from € 1.6 billion in 2006 to € 1.8 billion in 2008, whereas<br />
the women's wear imports for the same product group increased<br />
by 17.9% from € 2.2 billion in 2006 to € 2.6 billion in 2008.<br />
76<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Thus, best prospects for imported apparel include business wear<br />
(basic colours, good quality, medium- high price) for women as<br />
well as high quality sportswear with a casual style and excellent<br />
quality materials (mainly natural fibres) with sophisticated styles<br />
and patterns. Casual wear, mainly denim, cotton-made products<br />
and knitted apparel, have also been in strong demand and sales<br />
prospects for these items have been rated as positive. Spanish<br />
youth is strongly influenced by fashion trends from casual wear in<br />
general (‘GAP style’) and it can be stated that imports in general<br />
have very good prospects in this sector.
Table 52: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008<br />
For men or boys<br />
2006 2007 2008<br />
Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.01) 15’739 251’037 14’500 267’716 20’949 306’322<br />
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts, etc.<br />
(62.03)<br />
42’358 947’501 46’097 1’053’743 190’377 1’099’781<br />
Shirts (62.05) 14’799 355’216 17’339 416’233 206’588 397’444<br />
Sub Total 72’896 1’553’753 77’935 1’737’693 417’914 1’803’548<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 71’231 887’827 77’496 980’492 77’932 970’813<br />
For women or girls<br />
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.02) 19’377 352’049 21’803 403’012 341’039 474’557<br />
Suits, jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers, etc<br />
(62.04)<br />
58‘111 1‘510‘981 59‘590 1‘628‘990 338‘589 1‘626‘261<br />
Blouses and shirts (62.06) 6’452 302’746 7’663 378’931 13’553 453’405<br />
Sub Total 83’939 2’165’776 89’055 2’410’933 693’182 2’554’223<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 81’817 1’382’836 88’814 1’559’231 102’062 1’703’457<br />
For both genders<br />
Babies garments (62.09) 5’373 85’626 39’612 95’908 6’282 90’800<br />
Others incl. Impregnated (62.10) 4’775 99’320 6’619 108’839 10’777 244’785<br />
Shawls, scarves, mufflers, etc. (62.14) 3’437 63’773 2’932 54’685 5’066 67’271<br />
Ties, bow ties and cravats (62.15) 301 32’247 366 34’791 858 38’176<br />
Gloves, mittens and mitts (62.16) 791 14’985 626 14’124 1’082 28’894<br />
Other made-up clothing accessoires (62.17) 2’410 36’506 10’420 39’193 3’191 37’748<br />
Sub Total 17’085 332’457 60’575 347’540 27’256 507’675<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 10’762 117’682 12’206 116’744 13’424 143’250<br />
Active Sportswear<br />
Track suits, ski suits (62.11) 15’645 221’525 22’621 237’475 79’944 244’000<br />
Sub Total 15’645 221’525 22’621 237’475 79’944 244’000<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 13’213 116’012 14’785 128’787 14’230 140’501<br />
TOTAL 189’566 4’273’511 250’186 4’733’642 1’218’295 5’109’446<br />
TOTAL EXTRA EU 177’022 2’504’358 193’299 2’785’254 207’648 2’958’021<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 77
5.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT)<br />
The textile and clothing industry in Spain is a labour intensive industry<br />
with relatively high labour costs. Outsourcing is a common<br />
practice among Spanish clothing firms, however mainly within<br />
Spain. INDITEX (Brand ZARA), for example, designs, produces<br />
(50% is outsourced to subcontractors) and distributes its<br />
own brands (vertical concept). The company policy of satisfying<br />
customer demand almost immediately requires that INDITEX production<br />
is almost entirely located in Europe, primarily in Spain to<br />
provide the flexibility to respond quickly and effectively to market<br />
trends. MANGO, Spain’s second largest textile company after<br />
INDITEX, designs strictly women's wear for young urban women.<br />
However, Mango manufactures only to 25% of its production in<br />
Table 53: Largest supplying countries of OPT outerwear, 2006-2008<br />
78<br />
Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from<br />
2006<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Spain. The remainder of Mango clothing is produced in China (approximately<br />
50%) and Morocco (approximately 25%) but almost<br />
100% on finished product basis.<br />
The actual ‘Outward Processing Trade’ (OPT) business – usually<br />
operated by apparel manufacturers - in Spain plays more and<br />
more important role but represents only 1.7% of total outerwear<br />
imports. The No. 1 OPT supplier is by far Morocco with € 0.1 billion<br />
imports in 2008 (in 2006 only € 0.04 billion!) followed by Tunisia,<br />
China and Macedonia. Basically, there are two reasons for the<br />
extremely small OPT business: a. the strong clothing production<br />
base in Spain with rather competitive prices and b. no tradition in<br />
OPT business.<br />
2007 [‘000 €] Change from<br />
2007<br />
2008 [‘000 €]<br />
1 Morocco 38’754 148% 96’166 18% 113’660<br />
2 Tunisia 4’707 257% 16’782 6% 17’813<br />
3 China 984 27% 1’245 194% 3’655<br />
4 Macedonia 672 -13% 583 40% 814<br />
5 Bangladesh 27 -100% 0 625<br />
6 Serbia 10 770% 85 163% 224<br />
7 Turkey 6 -100% 0 200<br />
8 Vietnam 141 -41% 83 129% 190<br />
9 Moldova 0 69 74% 119<br />
10 Pakistan 0 0 100<br />
11 USA 2 -100% 0 53<br />
12 Hong Kong 10 5% 11 346% 49<br />
13 Guatemala 0 0 42<br />
14 Mexico 0 0 19<br />
15 Norway 2 -100% 0 3<br />
16 Bosnia-Herz. 0 70 -97% 2<br />
17 Thailand 32 87% 61 -97% 2<br />
18 <strong>Switzerland</strong> 2 -100% 0 0<br />
19 Romania 7’129 -100% 0 0<br />
20 Bulgaria 12’702 -100% 0 0<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
Total 65’477 76% 115’382 19% 137’570
5.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear<br />
The five major supplying countries of clothing from extra-EU countries<br />
are – according to their importance – China, Morocco, Turkey,<br />
Bangladesh and India The two main extra-EU suppliers of fashion<br />
clothing, China and Morocco, represent 54.7% of the entire extra-<br />
EU import value<br />
Table 54: Largest extra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008<br />
Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change<br />
from 2006<br />
2007 [‘000 €] Change<br />
from 2007<br />
2008 [‘000 €]<br />
1 China 1’395’357 17% 1’632’135 12% 1’825’982<br />
2 Morocco 766’241 15% 882’098 -3% 859’022<br />
3 Turkey 551’166 29% 709’031 -4% 684’114<br />
4 Bangladesh 360’521 -7% 335’050 17% 393’519<br />
5 India 261’435 -7% 244’034 24% 301’958<br />
6 Vietnam 84’355 14% 95’896 55% 148’249<br />
7 Cambodia 70’378 18% 82’788 19% 98’858<br />
8 Thailand 45’076 -10% 40’614 135% 95’536<br />
9 Pakistan 79’377 -5% 75’665 3% 77’785<br />
10 Tunisia 51’308 18% 60’306 5% 63’343<br />
11 Egypt 7’232 268% 26’582 103% 54’053<br />
12 Indonesia 54’382 -10% 49’098 3% 50’417<br />
13 Hong Kong 136’735 -21% 107’846 -57% 45’946<br />
14 Myanmar 32’713 1% 33’168 11% 36’712<br />
15 <strong>Switzerland</strong> 28’224 -5% 26’918 9% 29’217<br />
16 Madagascar 16’913 7% 18’053 -15% 15’323<br />
17 Sri Lanka 14’906 7% 15’951 -10% 14’289<br />
18 Peru 13’946 -5% 13’221 -7% 12’342<br />
19 Malaysia 26’877 -47% 14’327 -20% 11’517<br />
20 USA 8’120 28% 10’354 1% 10’406<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
The two main EU suppliers France and Italy represent 47.9% of<br />
the whole EU import value. In general, approximately 46.1% of the<br />
import value is supplied by EU member states and the rest comes<br />
from developing countries.<br />
Extra-EU 27 4’151’147 10% 4’582’874 7% 4’911’522<br />
Intra-EU 27 3’418’428 12% 3’814’424 10% 4’204’113<br />
Total 7’569’575 11% 8’397’298 9% 9’115’635<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 79
Table 55: Largest intra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-<br />
2008<br />
80<br />
Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from<br />
2006<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
2007 [‘000 €] Change from<br />
2007<br />
2008 [‘000 €]<br />
1 France 639’311 18% 757’482 50% 1’134’652<br />
2 Italy 806’863 13% 914’602 -4% 878’723<br />
3 Portugal 600’697 13% 681’595 -4% 654’037<br />
4 Germany 416’821 12% 466’345 5% 489’272<br />
5 Belgium 344’117 17% 401’852 1% 406’711<br />
6 Netherlands 136’536 33% 181’371 13% 204’598<br />
7 UK 112’909 14% 128’388 39% 178’857<br />
8 Denmark 116’167 7% 124’850 -11% 111’452<br />
9 Bulgaria 99’598 -50% 49’421 0% 49’659<br />
10 Romania 49’272 -57% 21’104 14% 24’078<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
Intra-EU 27 3’418’428 12% 3’814’424 10% 4’204’113<br />
Extra-EU 27 4’151’147 10% 4’582’874 7% 4’911’522<br />
Total 7’569’575 11% 8’397’298 9% 9’115’635<br />
5.4 Trade structure.<br />
5.4.1 Developments in the retail trade<br />
The fierce competition on the Spanish market, partly due to more<br />
imports from abroad, has led to structural reforms at the retail<br />
level. The expansion of clothing multiples resulted in a decrease<br />
in the number of independent specialized shops. In 2008, total<br />
clothing retail trade showed rising turnover with an average annual<br />
change of +2.3%.<br />
Each year, independent retailers are steadily losing market shares<br />
to other more dynamic retail channels; this trend has even accelerated<br />
in the last few years.<br />
In Spain there are five large groups that control one third of the total<br />
retail market for men’s, women’s and children's wear: El Corte<br />
Inglés, Inditex, Carrefour, Cortefiel and Mango.<br />
In 2008 there were 40'000 clothing retailers in Spain down from<br />
70'612 in the nineties. Each year, small independent multi-brand<br />
stores steadily lose market share to other more dynamic retail<br />
channels, like specialised clothing chains, and this trend will continue<br />
because of limited capabilities to respond quickly to changing<br />
trends. At the lower end of the retail market, the market share of<br />
street markets declined in favour of shopping centres (including<br />
hypermarkets and multiples).<br />
The further strategy of the clothing industry, partially running their<br />
own retail outlets, includes the increase of productivity in order to<br />
lower labour costs, and a higher dislocation of the production to<br />
countries with low production costs. These cost-saving strategies<br />
have been completed by a very sophisticated supply-chain management<br />
to provide the franchise shops with new fashion items<br />
on a weekly or monthly basis.<br />
The Inditex Group has achieved a worldwide leading standard with<br />
almost perfect logistics and very short lead-times for new ranges/<br />
designs of less than 6 weeks. It can be expected that the Spanish<br />
clothing retailers will offer greater segmentation in the product<br />
lines offered and specialize more in market niches, mainly within<br />
the low and upper price ranges.
5.4.2 Leading retailers<br />
As mentioned before, the Spanish clothing retail structure can be<br />
characterized by a strong concentration on only a few companies.<br />
Further, a significant part of the turnover is made by distribution<br />
chains such as C&A, or international franchise companies like<br />
Benetton, Pimkie or Promod.<br />
Department store sales (in Spain El Corte Inglés) also represent a<br />
large share of the total clothing market. The El Corte Inglés group<br />
includes the franchise chains Sintesis, Cedosce, Tintoretto and<br />
Amitié.<br />
The most successful Spanish clothing retailer, INDITEX in La<br />
Coruna, is the world third largest clothing company after GAP and<br />
H&M, with a total turn-over of € 10.41 billion (2008) representing<br />
an CAGR of 20.6% over the last 10 years (1998 turn-over € 1.6<br />
billion). The founders and owners had opened the first Zara store<br />
with the idea of producing fashion clothing at an affordable price.<br />
Over the past decade, Inditex has registered 7 new brands and<br />
runs 3'556 shops in 37 countries. Inditex group today consists<br />
of eight major chains: Zara (Turn-over share: 65.6% - products:<br />
men’s, women’s and children's wear), Zara Home (Turn-over share:<br />
2.1% - products: home textiles), Pull & Bear (Turn-over share:<br />
6.9% - products: menswear), Massimo Dutti (Turn-over share:<br />
6.9% - products: men’s and women's wear), Bershka (Turn-over<br />
share: 9.9%), Oysho (Turn-over share: 2.3%), Stradivarius (Turnover<br />
share: 6.1% - products: women’s and girls’ wear) and Uterqüe<br />
(Turn-over share: n.a. – products: women’s and girls’ accessories<br />
and shoes).<br />
INDITEX provides the flexibility and quick response to market<br />
trends, while other Spanish clothing firms are based on designer<br />
or seasonal collections. Designers are in constant touch with store<br />
managers to find out which items are most in demand. The plant,<br />
in turn, ships the goods to the stores twice a week, thus eliminating<br />
the need for warehouses and keeping inventories low.<br />
European firms such as Gucci are successful in the women's<br />
wear market. Dutch/German C&A targets a bigger share in the<br />
market. Other successful European chains in Spain are the Italian<br />
Benetton, Max Mara chains and the French Pimkie. The Swedish<br />
Hennes & Mauritz chain has operated in the Spanish market since<br />
2000 and plans an aggressive expansion, opening numerous<br />
outlets in major Spanish cities. The American GAP competes<br />
successfully with Zara and Mango, offering young fashion at low<br />
prices.<br />
The Barcelona-based Armand BASI, originally a knitwear company,<br />
is also an important supplier of men’s and women's wear, as<br />
well as the Galicia based CARAMELO chain. Two leading Spanish<br />
specialists in women’s jeans and trousers are ANINOTO and<br />
JOCAVI, which are popular among women of all ages.<br />
Table 56 gives a survey on the major clothing companies, most<br />
of them having an own production as well as own retail outlets<br />
among which MANGO, ZARA and CORTEFIEL have the most<br />
advanced marketing concept and are successfully operating all<br />
over Europe and partially worldwide. In the table below it becomes<br />
obvious to what extent Inditex dominates the Spanish clothing<br />
market with 1'896 own shopping outlet stores in Spain (53% of<br />
worldwide shopping outlet stores). Another big player is the ‘El<br />
Grupo CORTEFIEL SA’ in Madrid with 970 shops in 9 European<br />
countries and 375 franchises in 37 non European countries.<br />
The distribution of outerwear in the Spanish clothing market is<br />
based on extensive franchising systems that are highly developed<br />
compared to other European markets. Some of the most important<br />
franchises are ADOLFO DOMINGUEZ (men’s designer clothing<br />
– 559 outlets worldwide), MASSIMO DUTTI (ladies’ and men’s outerwear<br />
– 250 outlets – franchisee Inditex Group) or TINTORETTO<br />
(high segment ladies’ outerwear – 45 outlets – franchisee Induyco<br />
Group).<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 81
Table 56: Major specialised clothing chains in Spain, 2008-2009<br />
82<br />
Clothing retail chain Parent company Website Number of outlets<br />
Zara* Inditex www.zara.com 514 (1’188)<br />
Pull and Bear* Inditex www.pullbear.com 287 (495)<br />
Massimo Dutti* Inditex www.massimodutti.com 250 (398)<br />
Bershka* Inditex www.bershka.com 262 (503)<br />
Stradivarius* Inditex www.e-stradivarius.com 265 (412)<br />
Oysho* Inditex www.oysho.com 176 (322)<br />
C&A C&A www.c-y-a.es 114 (1’149)<br />
H&M Hennes&Mauritz www.hm.com/ 114(1’988)<br />
Adolfo Dominguez* Adolfo Dominguez www.adolfodominguez.es ‘(599)<br />
Mango* Mango Holding www.company.mango.com 265 (1’223)<br />
Promod Promod www.promod.eu 49 (783)<br />
Amitié* Induyco www.amitie.induyco.es 78<br />
Titorento* Induyco www.tintoretto.es 45<br />
Síntesis* Induyco www.sintesis.induyco.es 11 (21)<br />
Síntesis XXL* Induyco www.sintesis.induyco.es 11 (21)<br />
Springfield* Grupo Cortefiel www.grupocortefiel.com 287 (1’223)<br />
Cortefiel* Grupo Cortefiel www.grupocortefiel.com 250 (1’223)<br />
Women’s Secret* Grupo Cortefiel www.grupocortefiel.com 229 (1’223)<br />
Pedro del Hierro* Grupo Cortefiel www.grupocortefiel.com 19 (1’223)<br />
Prenatal Prenatal www.prenatal.es 105 (339)<br />
Pimkie Association Mulliez www.pimkie.fr 270 (655)<br />
Décathlon Association Mulliez www.decathlon.com ‘(457)<br />
Intersport Intersport Group www.intersport.com ‘(4’885)<br />
Sport2000 Groupe Sport 2000 www.sport2000.fr ‘(2’446)<br />
Source: Gherzi analysis – Note: *Companies with own production in Spain or clothe collaboration; Number in brackets corresponds to worldwide outlets.<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010
5.4.3 Distribution channels<br />
5.4.3.1 Retailers<br />
The last survey on the structure of the Spanish clothing distribution<br />
channels dated from 2009 indicates that 157'600 persons<br />
were employed in 62'817 shops. The size of the shops in Spain is<br />
comparatively small with 2.5 employees per unit (source: Distribución<br />
Actualidad based on data from DBK). Table 57, based on<br />
CBI, indicates the share of the clothing distribution channels in<br />
2008. The market is still dominated by the independent specialized<br />
retailers (35%) but the share of clothing multiples (28%) has grown<br />
in recent years and can be rated, together with the hyper- and supermarkets<br />
(11%), as the greatest potential target customer group<br />
for manufacturers from developing countries.<br />
Table 57: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]<br />
2004 2006 2008<br />
Specialists 63 64 63<br />
Independent retailers 38 37 35<br />
Clothing multiples 25 27 28<br />
Non-specialists 37 36 37<br />
Department/variety stores 13 12 12<br />
Home shopping companies 1 1 1<br />
Hyper- and supermarkets 10 10 11<br />
Sports stores 5 6 6<br />
Other 8 7 7<br />
Total<br />
Source: CBI<br />
100 100 100<br />
5.4.3.1.1 Independent retailers<br />
Key characteristics: These specialized clothing shops are still the<br />
main retail outlets for garments in Spain (Jeans-shops, Boutiques,<br />
sportswear-shops), although the market share of these shops has<br />
been slightly decreasing. They still play an important role mostly in<br />
the North of Spain, although even here the importance for this distribution<br />
channel is shrinking. Each year small independent multibrand<br />
stores steadily lose market share to other more dynamic<br />
retail channels (like large department store El Corte Ingles, C&A<br />
and other forms of retail). This trend has accelerated in the past<br />
few years, mainly because of their limited capabilities to respond<br />
quickly enough to changing market trends and the limited choice of<br />
products in the shops.<br />
Market-share: 35% in 2008, Trend: Decreasing<br />
5.4.3.1.2 Clothing multiples<br />
Key characteristics: Clothing multiples mainly or exclusively have<br />
only one brand label in their assortment for fashionable products<br />
with short rotation times (like Mango). As a result of aggressive<br />
expansion plans, these specialist chains account for a large percentage<br />
of total retail clothing sales in Spain. Many of these chains<br />
operate on either a franchise basis or a mix of both company-run<br />
stores and franchises. These often single brand retail channels,<br />
along with hypermarkets, have gained the greatest market share<br />
at the expense of the multi-brand independent shops. Like France<br />
and the UK, Spain possesses favourable regulations for franchise<br />
companies.<br />
Market share: 28% in 2008, Trend: Increasing<br />
5.4.3.1.3 Department / variety stores<br />
Key characteristics: Department stores combine a wide range of<br />
branded goods and private labels. The prevalent Spanish department<br />
store is El Corte Inglés, the store presents more than<br />
30 brands of men’s, women’s and children's wear. Many of these<br />
brands originate from the Induyco Group (which is the owner of El<br />
Corte Inglés). However, a large portion of the assortment consists<br />
of well-known Spanish or foreign brands. According to our market<br />
observations, entry to the Spanish market through El Corte Inglés<br />
for companies with substantial sales volume has been indispensable<br />
up to now. Despite strict terms of admission (restrictive terms<br />
of payment, certain levels of turnover etc.) set up by the leading<br />
department store, many brand manufacturers try to sell their<br />
garments to El Corte Inglés. Due to strict brand orientation, the<br />
department store offers easier access for well known brands and<br />
companies with a good image. Companies from developing countries<br />
have the best access chances to El Corte Inglés by offering<br />
their assortment to the ‘private label buying managers’ who source<br />
their products mainly from overseas suppliers.<br />
Market share: 12% in 2008, Trend: Slightly decreasing<br />
5.4.3.1.4 Home shopping companies<br />
Mail-order has traditionally not been particularly popular in Spain,<br />
with direct selling being the more effective and better-developed<br />
method in the Spanish market. Shopping has always been seen as<br />
a leisure activity in Spain, where shops stay open late.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 83
The major German and French players are present in Spain, but<br />
their progress has been slow. Spanish leading mail-order companies<br />
selling clothing besides general goods are Venca (part of Otto<br />
Versand) and La Redoute Catalogue.<br />
Market share: 1% in 2008, Trend: Constant<br />
5.4.3.1.5 Hyper- and supermarkets<br />
Key characteristics: The main activities of grocery super- and<br />
hypermarkets lie originally in the selling of groceries. Both distribution<br />
channels are gaining importance in Spain. The price level<br />
of clothing sold by super- and hypermarkets ranges in the lower to<br />
middle level. The important suppliers are large supermarkets like<br />
ALCAMPO, ALIMENT, MERCADONA, GIGANTE and CARRE-<br />
FOUR. For the children's clothing sector this distribution channel<br />
plays a particularly important role.<br />
Market share: 11% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing<br />
5.4.3.1.6 Sport shops<br />
Sport stores in Spain only offer a limited range of clothing products<br />
specialised to fit to numerous sporting disciplines.<br />
Market share: 6% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing<br />
5.4.3.1.7 Other (street markets, etc.)<br />
According to desk-research and interviews conducted in Spain,<br />
open street markets and to a lesser extent consumer fairs and<br />
factory outlets are the major distribution channels for clothing<br />
summarised under ‘Other forms of retail’. The market share of this<br />
retail channels is slightly decreasing.<br />
Market share: 7% in 2008, Trend: Slightly decreasing<br />
5.4.3.2 Sales intermediaries<br />
5.4.3.2.1 Clothing manufacturers<br />
As stated above, the clothing production sector plays a dominant<br />
role in the Spanish industry. There is a growing trend among<br />
manufacturers to create their own chain of distribution. Franchise<br />
has become a very common system for brand name distribution of<br />
fashion products.<br />
A new way of distributing garments for clothing manufacturers<br />
originates from the USA: Sales through Factory Outlet Centers<br />
(FOCs). Garments are sold directly from the factory to the<br />
consumer. This distribution way concerns ‘leftovers’: goods from<br />
84<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
overproduction, phased-out products and returns. ZARA has an<br />
independent shop in Madrid. There are many FOCs in Spain, located<br />
outside of big cities. There is FOC ‘La Roca Company Stores’<br />
near Barcelona, which offers brand apparel at reduced price in 40<br />
shops (Cacharel, Dockers, Levi’s, Timberland). Two other FOCs<br />
are situated near Madrid (‘Las Rozas Village’ in Las Rozas and<br />
another one in Getafe). According to Factory-Outlet Center.biz<br />
there are 9 registered large FOC’s in Spain in 2009.<br />
5.4.3.2.2 Central buying associations<br />
As the share of independent smaller retailers in Spain (at 35%)<br />
is high, there is a relatively broad basis for potential member<br />
companies for buying associations. Nevertheless, the major buying<br />
association Spain is IFA ESPANOLA in Madrid. The members are<br />
more supermarkets and cash-and-carry markets than retailers.<br />
The low importance of buying associations in Spain can be mainly<br />
explained by the fact that the owner of a single boutique or a small<br />
number of shops buys over 80% of his product range from local<br />
manufacturers and/or from sales agents representing foreign<br />
brands. Therefore, the buying associations are of less importance<br />
for foreign manufacturers wishing to export to Spain.<br />
5.4.3.2.3 Sales agents<br />
Sales agents play a major role in the Spanish clothing market. This<br />
refers mainly to Spanish and European clothing brands which are<br />
distributed via a network of sales agents all over the country. Only<br />
those clothing manufacturers from abroad wishing to enter the<br />
Spanish market with an own product range are advised to appoint<br />
a sales agent to sell their collection to the major retailers. These<br />
sales agents should be located near or in the major ‘clothing areas’<br />
of Spain like Madrid, Seville, Barcelona and La Coruña to build<br />
up and maintain contact to the ‘key players’ in Spain.<br />
5.4.3.2.4 Importers/wholesalers<br />
Given the strong increase of clothing imports into Spain since the<br />
end of the nineties, the necessity for the assignment of importers/<br />
wholesalers has increased. Some Spanish wholesalers/importers<br />
have come to supply the chains and the brands with ‘price<br />
attractive and fashionable’ collections that they often develop with<br />
manufacturers from overseas countries. However, interviews in<br />
Spain have shown that the large clothing companies like Mango,<br />
Inditex or Indyuco often have their own import departments and<br />
sourcing and control systems worldwide. Therefore, the clothing<br />
supplier from abroad should approach retailers and manufacturers<br />
in Spain directly.
5.5 Spanish fashion trade fairs.<br />
The important Spanish fashion fairs take place in two big cities:<br />
Barcelona and Madrid.<br />
The significant fashion fair in Madrid is SIMM – International Fashion<br />
Week. It is organized twice a year, in February and August/<br />
September in Parque Ferial Juan Carlos I by IFEMA (Feria de<br />
Madrid). The fair focuses on men’s and women's wear, but also<br />
fur clothing and leather garments. The fair includes the following<br />
events: INMODA/ANIMODA, IMAGENMODA, INTERMODA, LA<br />
GALERIA, PASARELA DE CIBELES, CIEN POR CIEN, ESPA-<br />
Table 58: Spanish fashion trade fairs 2010<br />
CIO CIBELES, ESPACIO HOMBRE and BOUTIQUE EUROPA.<br />
The ongoing growth SIMM has enjoyed has made this event the<br />
second most important fashion trade fair in Europe in terms of<br />
net exhibition area, based on a solid and constant drive to ensure<br />
quality. Furthermore, the fair will feature strong participation on the<br />
part of international companies and buyers from other countries,<br />
for which SIMM represents an important business centre.<br />
For children's wear the ‘FIMI’ in Valencia is the most important<br />
event. The fair takes place twice per year and shows baby to teenager<br />
wear as well as accessories and maternity wear.<br />
Trade fair Date <strong>Location</strong><br />
FIMI 18. - 20.06.2010 Valencia<br />
Salon Intenational de Moda de Madrid (SIMM) 04. - 06.02.2010 Madrid<br />
Source: CBI<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 85
5.6 List of major buyers in Spain.<br />
Clothing chain stores<br />
86<br />
C & A Modas S.L.<br />
Avda. de la Indústria, 17<br />
Pol. Ind. de Alcobendas<br />
28108 Alcobendas (Madrid)<br />
Tel.: +34-91-663 0000<br />
Fax: +34-91-663 3532<br />
press@C-and-A.com<br />
www.c-and-a.com or<br />
www.c-y-a.es<br />
infoiberica@retail-sc.com<br />
Celso Garcia SA<br />
Calle Serrano 52<br />
E - 28001 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-431 6760<br />
Fax: +34-91-431 67 70<br />
www.cortefiel.es<br />
Comerc. Espanola LA ARA-<br />
NA SA<br />
Polígono Industrial El Pla -<br />
Edificio Arana<br />
E - 08800 Barcelona<br />
Tel.: +34-93-668 9061<br />
Fax: +34-93-668 5962<br />
Cortefiel SA<br />
Avenida Mon Forte De Lemos<br />
s/n<br />
E - 28029 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-730 2912<br />
Fax: +34-91-730 2437<br />
www.cortefiel.es<br />
Damart SA<br />
Calle Gomis 32<br />
E - 08023 Barcelona<br />
Tel.: +34-93-212 2412<br />
Fax: +34-93-211 5815<br />
www.damart.fr<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Product range: Ladies’,<br />
men’s and childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 115<br />
Product range: Ladies’,<br />
men’s and childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 11<br />
Note: Belongs 1/3 to<br />
Cortefiel<br />
Product range: Ladies’<br />
and menswear<br />
Price segment: Lower to<br />
mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 42<br />
Product range: Ladies’<br />
and menswear + young<br />
fashion<br />
Price segment: Mid level<br />
Number of outlets: > 300<br />
Product range: Ladies’<br />
and menswear, underwear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower level<br />
Number of outlets: 22<br />
shops + mail order<br />
Euronido Textil SA<br />
Ctra. Andalucia, km 6.400<br />
E - 28041 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-217 3345<br />
Fax: +34-91-365 0848<br />
www.euronido.es<br />
Inditex SA (‘Zara’)<br />
Poligono Ind. Sabon 79B<br />
E - 15142 Arteixo, La Coruna<br />
Tel.: +34-981-185400<br />
Fax: +34-981-185454<br />
www.inditex.com<br />
Mango – Punto FA S.L.<br />
Calle Mercaders 9 11<br />
E - 08184 Palau de Plegamans<br />
–<br />
Barcelona<br />
Tel.: +34-93-860 2222<br />
Fax: +34-93-8602 201<br />
www.mango.es<br />
Prénatal SA<br />
Botanica 29-31<br />
E-08908 Hospitalet de Llobregat<br />
(Barcelona)<br />
Tel.: +34-93-2606000<br />
Fax: +34-93-2606018<br />
www.prenatal.es<br />
Reguero SA<br />
Roble 3<br />
E - 28020 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-4252 880<br />
Fax: +34-91- 571 57 35<br />
Superconfex SA<br />
Sierra de Guadarrama 84<br />
Polígono Industrial San<br />
Fernando<br />
de Henares<br />
E - 28850 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-656 4012<br />
Fax: +34-91-677 2935<br />
www.superconfex.be<br />
Product range: Ladies’<br />
and menswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower level<br />
(value for money)<br />
Number of outlets: 16<br />
Product range: Ladies’,<br />
men’s and childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Mid to<br />
upper level<br />
Number of outlets: > 500<br />
- partially<br />
own production<br />
Product range: Womenswear,<br />
young fashion<br />
Price segment: Mid level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
Over 60 + 175<br />
franchising partners<br />
Product range: Childrenswear,<br />
Maternity wear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Number of outlets: 105<br />
Product range: Menswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 14<br />
Product range: Ladies’<br />
and menswear<br />
Price segment: Lower<br />
level<br />
Number of outlets: 12<br />
Note: Daughter company<br />
of Dutch<br />
‘Superconfex’
Jeans-, sportswear and young fashion<br />
Dacosa SA<br />
Claudio Coello 57<br />
E - 28001 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-431 6041<br />
Fax: +34-91-577 4904<br />
dacosaspeedway@hotmail.com<br />
www.dacosaspeedway.com<br />
Department stores<br />
Alcampo SA<br />
Edificio de Oficina Madrid 2<br />
Santiago del Compostela sur<br />
s/n<br />
E - 28029 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-730 6666<br />
Fax: +34-91-730 7299<br />
www.alcampo.es<br />
El Corte Ingles SA<br />
Hermosilla 112<br />
E - 28009 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-309 7221<br />
Fax: +34-91-327 1327<br />
www.elcorteingles.es<br />
Galerias Primero SA<br />
Paseo Echegaray y caballero 76<br />
E - 50003 Zaragoza<br />
Tel.: +34-976-769900<br />
Fax: +34-976-769901<br />
www.galeriasprimero.es<br />
www.grupoelarbol.com<br />
Jose Luis Gay GA<br />
Calle Alfonso I n 17<br />
E - 50003 Zaragoza<br />
Tel.: +34-976-397150<br />
Fax: +34-976-396647<br />
Simago SA<br />
Josefa Valcarcel, 40 duplicado<br />
E - 28027 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-301 80 00<br />
Fax: +34-91-301 80 23<br />
Product range: Sportswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to higher level<br />
Number of outlets: 110<br />
Note: belongs to Cortefiel<br />
group<br />
Product range: Ladies’,<br />
men’s and childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 43 + 13<br />
gas stations<br />
Product range: Men’s<br />
ladies and childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Lower to<br />
upper level (depending on<br />
distribution channel)<br />
Number of outlets: 37<br />
dept. stores + supermarkets<br />
+ franchising partners<br />
Product range: Ladies’,<br />
men’s and childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Mid level<br />
Number of outlets: 11<br />
Product range: Ladies’ and<br />
menswear<br />
Price segment: Lower<br />
level<br />
Number of outlets: 6<br />
Product range: Ladies’,<br />
men’s and childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Lower<br />
level<br />
Number of outlets: approximately<br />
15<br />
Note: belongs to the Spanish<br />
Continente Group<br />
Mail order companies<br />
Venta Catalogo SA<br />
Calle de los Olivares 1 -<br />
Vilanova i la Geltrú<br />
E - 08800 Barcelona<br />
Tel.: +34-93-814 0909<br />
Fax: +34-93-893 0818<br />
www.venca.es<br />
Product range:<br />
Casual wear for men<br />
and women<br />
Price segment: Mid level<br />
Manufacturers / importers and wholesalers / importers<br />
Caramelo SA<br />
Avda. Gambrinus 103<br />
E - 15008 La Coruna<br />
Tel.: +34-981-146 002<br />
Fax: +34-981-270103<br />
www.caramelo.com<br />
Centro Textil Massana<br />
C. Josep Calvet, 80 - Apto.<br />
1052<br />
E - 08302 Mataró (Barcelona)<br />
Tel.: +34-937-415 545<br />
Fax: +34-937-415 553<br />
www.massana.es<br />
Difusión Dignos S.L. /<br />
Dikton’s<br />
C/Tanger 66<br />
E - 08018 Barcelona<br />
Tel.: +34-93-486 45 45<br />
Fax: +34-93-486 45 46<br />
sales@diktons.com<br />
www.diktons.com<br />
Import Arrasate S.A.<br />
Pol. Kataid, pab 19<br />
E - 205000 Arrasate<br />
(Guipuzcoca)<br />
Tel.: +34-943-712-034<br />
Fax: +34-943-771-301<br />
www.astore.es<br />
Product range: Ladies’ and<br />
menswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to higher level<br />
Number of outlets: 25<br />
Note: Manufacturer +<br />
retailer<br />
Product range: Knitwear<br />
and outerwear<br />
Price segment: Mid level<br />
Product range: Knitwear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid level<br />
Product range: Sport and<br />
rainwear<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 87
Manufacturers / importers and wholesalers / importers<br />
88<br />
Induyco Grupo de Moda<br />
Tomas Breton, 62<br />
E - 28045 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-4680 300<br />
Fax: +34-91-46 78 723<br />
www.induyco.es<br />
Sirita SL<br />
Calle Poligono 6<br />
E - 46960 Aldaya (Valencia)<br />
Tel.: +34-96-151 2377<br />
Fax: +34-96-151 2361<br />
www.andres-garcia.com<br />
Takezo + Co. SA<br />
Trafalgr 70<br />
E - Barcelona (Ciutat Vella)<br />
Tel.: +34-93-268 4322<br />
Fax: +34-93-268 2293<br />
Unicen SL<br />
San Pedro de Leixa 303<br />
E - 15405 Ferrol, La Coruna<br />
Tel.: +34-981-315611<br />
Fax: +34-981-326252<br />
www.unicen.com<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Product range: Ladies,<br />
men’s and childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Mid to high<br />
level<br />
Note: 50% production<br />
absorbed by<br />
Corte Inglés<br />
Product range: Casual<br />
wear for men<br />
Note: Manufacturer<br />
Product range: Ladies’ and<br />
menswear<br />
Price segment: Mid level<br />
Product range: Menswear<br />
Note: Manufacturer and<br />
wholesaler<br />
Buying associations<br />
IFA Española SA<br />
Sepulveda, 4<br />
Poligono Industrial Alcobendas<br />
E - 28108 Alcobendas (Madrid)<br />
Tel.: +34-91-651 0460<br />
Fax: +34-91-661 5880<br />
www.grupoifa.com<br />
Una – Vivo AS<br />
Condado de Trevino 19<br />
E - 28033 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-766 1222<br />
Note:<br />
62 related wholesalers<br />
Note:<br />
160 related companies
6. <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />
6.1 General economic situation.<br />
The Swiss import policy for clothing from EU and to a large extent<br />
also from non-EU countries is very liberal. Thus, the economy is<br />
internationally highly integrated, applying an open trade regime for<br />
industrial products. Tariffs on manufactured products are generally<br />
low, and in principle there are no quantitative restrictions,<br />
anti-dumping, countervailing or safeguard actions. However, in a<br />
number of sectors, the market entry has long suffered from ‘private’<br />
or ‘informal’ barriers that can be attributed to a legacy of weak<br />
anti-cartel legislation, specific and protective technical regulations,<br />
certain investment restrictions, etc.<br />
Against the backdrop that <strong>Switzerland</strong> has no mineral resources,<br />
the country is forced to import, process and resell them as<br />
products. The ‘service sector’ is the most significant part of the<br />
economy, employing more the 50% of the population. This sector<br />
specifically includes banking, insurance and tourism. Industry<br />
and trade are the second sectors in significance (about 40% of<br />
the population are employed there) and include the machine and<br />
metal industry, the watch industry as well as the textile and clothing<br />
industry.<br />
Economic relations with the EU have further intensified and foreign<br />
trade with this ‘country block’ has a share of 70% of all Swiss<br />
trade activities. Exports of merchandise are concentrated on a few<br />
sectors, particularly machinery, instruments, watches, chemicals<br />
and medical products and to a lesser extent textiles and clothing.<br />
Exports of commercial services are also important with about one<br />
quarter originating in the financial sector.<br />
As mentioned, the European countries play an important role in<br />
Swiss trade relations. Germany is the most important trading partner<br />
for <strong>Switzerland</strong>: In 2008, 34.6% (€ 44.3 billion) of all imports<br />
came from Germany and 20.3% of all exports (€ 28.5 billion) were<br />
delivered into Germany. Both are also important investment partners<br />
to each other. <strong>Switzerland</strong> is the sixth largest foreign investor<br />
in Germany.<br />
GDP and Industrial Production have grown from 2007 to 2008 by<br />
1.7% and 4.7% respectively. Table 59 shows all of the important<br />
Key Indicators of the Swiss Economy over the last years.<br />
The CHF develops more closely in line with the Euro than with the<br />
USD. In the past few years, the ratio of the CHF to the Euro has<br />
slowly but continuously grown stronger. One CHF is at present<br />
0.68 € (22.02.2010).<br />
Table 59: Key indicators of the Swiss economy, 2007-2009<br />
2007 2008 2009<br />
Real GDP growth [%] 6.2 4 -2<br />
Industrial production growth [%] 6.5 2.1 -6.7<br />
Average unemployment rate [%] 2.8 2.7 3.5<br />
Average consumer price index [%]<br />
Exchange rates<br />
2.6 3.3 -3.9<br />
CHF in € (average) 0.61 0.63 0.66<br />
CHF in US$ (average) 0.83 0.93 0.93<br />
Source: IMF, FSO Statistical Yearbook 2009, Oanda<br />
6.2 The market for outerwear.<br />
6.2.1 Market size<br />
<strong>Switzerland</strong> has a small but very competitive apparel market. In<br />
2008, the total local clothing industry had a turn over of about<br />
CHF 2.01 billion. <strong>Switzerland</strong> has very high labour and production<br />
costs, and therefore the industry has the tendency to concentrate<br />
on high-end and/or niche products. <strong>Switzerland</strong>’s apparel industry<br />
is experiencing a resizing process, based on the following key<br />
factors:<br />
• Worldwide over capacities<br />
• Growing competition from low wage economies<br />
• Strict displacement competition<br />
• Lack of market dynamics in textile production<br />
• Market split between expensive labels and cheap mass clothing<br />
• Consumer price sensitivity<br />
• Demographic developments<br />
Clothing imports amounted to CHF 6.28 billion in 2008 (see table<br />
60), a 0.6% growth over the previous year. At the same time,<br />
clothing exports accounted for CHF 2.14 billion. Due to the fact<br />
that <strong>Switzerland</strong> is a relatively small country, the Swiss clothing<br />
industry depends strongly on exports. Local production accounts<br />
for CHF 2.01 billion. Thus, imports are three times stronger than<br />
local production.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 89
Table 60: Size of the Swiss clothing industry, 2007-2008<br />
[CHF billion]<br />
2007 2008 % change<br />
Imports 6.24 6.28 0.6<br />
Local production 2.06 2.01 -2.2<br />
Exports 2.19 2.14 -2.6<br />
External trade balance -4.18 -4.27 2.2<br />
Source: TVS<br />
6.2.2 Market characteristics<br />
The Swiss clothing retail market has undergone a severe concentration<br />
process with a trend towards factory outlets, (brand) chain<br />
stores and ‘brand sales points’ within larger department stores<br />
(‘shop-in-shop’). The increased use of e-commerce in the fashion<br />
world has imposed a challenge to the ‘normal’ retailers. Trends are<br />
towards multi-channelling (parallel selling via internet and shops),<br />
pre- and after sales support and mass customized offers. Foreign<br />
Figure 6: Age structure of Swiss population by gender, 2008<br />
90<br />
Real, Index 1970 = 100<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
115<br />
105<br />
95<br />
85<br />
75<br />
65<br />
55<br />
10 0 +<br />
9 5 - 9 9<br />
9 0 - 9 4<br />
8 5 - 9 0<br />
8 0 - 8 5<br />
75 -79<br />
70 -74<br />
6 5 - 6 9<br />
6 0 - 6 4<br />
5 5 - 59<br />
50 - 5 4<br />
4 5 - 49<br />
4 0 - 4 4<br />
3 5 - 3 9<br />
3 0 - 3 4<br />
25 -29<br />
20 -24<br />
15 -19<br />
10 -14<br />
5 - 9<br />
0 - 4<br />
companies have gained more and more influence, for instance<br />
C&A <strong>Switzerland</strong>, H&M, Zara and others (see ‘Leading Retailers’<br />
and ‘Distribution Channels’).<br />
6.2.3 Demographic characteristics<br />
The Swiss society is an ageing society. There are now many more<br />
elderly people than 50 years ago. The number of citizens over 64<br />
has more than doubled since 1950, while that of those over 80<br />
has even quadrupled. The major age group are those at an age<br />
between 40-44. In contrast, the number of ‘under twenties’ has<br />
increased at a lower pace and has actually declined since the<br />
early seventies. This ageing process is the result of a longer life<br />
expectancy and fewer births. According to birth scenarios drawn<br />
by the Swiss Federal Statistical Office, this trend will continue over<br />
the next few decades. The population pyramid shown in Figure 6<br />
points out in greater detail the recent (year 2008) proportion of the<br />
Swiss male and female population divided into age groups (based<br />
Total<br />
on a total Swiss population of 7.6 million).<br />
male female<br />
1970<br />
1972<br />
1974<br />
1976<br />
1978<br />
1980<br />
1982<br />
1984<br />
1986<br />
1988<br />
1990<br />
1992<br />
1994<br />
1996<br />
1998<br />
Population in millions<br />
2000 2002<br />
2004<br />
2006<br />
2008<br />
0.35 0.30 0.25 0.20 0.15 0.10 0.05 0.00 0.00 0.05 0.10 0.15 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.35<br />
Source: US Census Bureau, International Data Base<br />
Clothing
6.2.4 Retail sales by categories<br />
The clothing sales increased by an average of 1.6% from 2000<br />
to 2008. The total sales index grew in the same period by an average<br />
of 1.8%. Clothing sales fell by 3.0% from 2007 to 2008. Data<br />
about the specific sales for outerwear are not available, however,<br />
Figure 7 gives a good indication on the total sales tendencies and<br />
clothing from 1970 to 2008.<br />
Figure 7: Sales volume index for total sales and clothing sales,<br />
1970 - 2008<br />
Source: BFS<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 91
Figure 8: Production and import costs for textile and clothing,<br />
2002 – 2009 (Index 2003 = 100)<br />
Source: BFS<br />
The sales volume of outerwear has grown from CHF 1.00 billion in<br />
2000 to CHF 1.34 billion in 2008, an increase of 34%. The sales<br />
volume of underwear has declined by 20.5% in the same period.<br />
The total turnover increased by 21.8% from 2000 to 2008. Table 61<br />
indicates the sales developments of the major product segments<br />
outerwear, underwear and accessories. Sales have dropped from<br />
2007 to 2008 by -2.2%.<br />
92<br />
Price Index<br />
110<br />
108<br />
106<br />
104<br />
102<br />
100<br />
98<br />
96<br />
94<br />
2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Local prduction cost<br />
Import cost
Table 61: Size of the Swiss clothing market, 2000-2008<br />
[CHF billion]<br />
2000 2006 2007 2008 % change 07-08<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 1.00 1.31 1.37 1.34 -2.00<br />
Underwear 0.44 0.00 0.36 0.35 -2.90<br />
Accessories 0.21 0.31 0.33 0.32 -2.30<br />
Total 1.65 1.62 2.06 2.01 -2.20<br />
Source: TVS – Note: All data based on estimation<br />
According to desk research carried out in <strong>Switzerland</strong>, the following<br />
product groups have the best sales prospects in <strong>Switzerland</strong>:<br />
• Young and trendy Sportswear/Casual wear<br />
• Jeans wear (either branded or on a value for money basis)-<br />
Strict displacement competition<br />
• Well-known street wear brands in the mid price range<br />
• Fashionable products at an ‘acceptable’ price level mainly<br />
offered by chains<br />
• High-end designer brands<br />
• Environmentally friendly apparel<br />
The demand for leisure and casual wear has increased continuously<br />
over the last few years, especially for the sportswear and<br />
‘smart casual’ segment. Additionally, high-end designer lines can<br />
also be quite successful in <strong>Switzerland</strong> with its high standard of<br />
living. An ongoing trend is a demand for natural fabrics. Also ‘functional<br />
clothing’ e.g. with ‘breath-active fabric’ is selling well.<br />
6.2.5 Consumer behaviour<br />
6.2.5.1 Consumer preferences<br />
Swiss consumers can be defined as ‘hybrid consumers’, as in<br />
other countries. Market analysis has shown that generally speaking<br />
the consumers are very well informed about the latest trends<br />
in fashion and can be considered to be both sophisticated and<br />
brand conscious. This is the case especially for people with higher<br />
income and a higher standard of living. It is no surprise that wellknown<br />
clothing brands are popular among Swiss consumers, as<br />
they are considered status symbols. On the other hand, there are<br />
many ‘cheap’ chain stores with a ‘value-for money- concept’ on the<br />
market which reflects the ‘economic sense’ of the Swiss consumer.<br />
Swiss women today can generally be described as fashion oriented<br />
without following all fashion trends immediately. They are<br />
usually sure of their taste and prefer basic and ‘practical’ garments<br />
which can be easily mixed and matched. Swiss women occasionally<br />
engage in impulse buying, but generally prefer to invest in<br />
high quality basics. Working women prefer simple and elegant<br />
garments of high quality and comfort. The formal office outfit for<br />
working women usually consists of an outfit or suit with matching<br />
blouse or shirt. Matching accessories like shawls, belts, handbags<br />
etc. have gained much more importance in the last 2-3 years and<br />
help to ‘freshen-up’ an existing outfit.<br />
Modern Swiss men have changed their attitude to fashion considerably<br />
over the past few years. According to retail trade sources,<br />
the male customers have ‘grown up’ and know what they are looking<br />
for: fashionable and comfortable clothing of good quality. The<br />
level of sophistication in men’s attitude is increasing. Well-known<br />
brand names are very popular, especially among label-conscious<br />
young consumers.<br />
Younger people, in particular, are willing and able to pay high<br />
prices for well-known labels. Casual clothing without a known<br />
label in the mid price bracket is also in demand. In general, buyers<br />
aged 25-50 are the most relevant consumer group for apparel,<br />
representing the target group which spends a high proportion of<br />
disposable income on apparel and shoes. Quality, functionality,<br />
price and design, in that order, are the most important factors for<br />
this target group in taking a buying decision.<br />
6.2.5.2 Consumer expenditures<br />
The Swiss population has one of the highest per capita incomes<br />
in the world. Total expenditure per household grew by an average<br />
of 1.9% from 2005 to 2009, while during the same period expenditure<br />
for clothing and shoes only grew by a yearly average of<br />
1.5%.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 93
The following table shows the developments of the Swiss<br />
household expenditure from 2005 to 2009.<br />
Table 62: Swiss average household expenditures, 2005-2009 [CHF]<br />
2005 2006 2007 2008* 2009* CAGR 05-08<br />
Total 36’049 36’841 37’816 38’282 38’911 1.90%<br />
Clothing and shoes 1’434 1’450 1’512 1’512 1’523 1.50%<br />
% of total 3.98% 3.94% 4.00% 3.95% 3.91% n.a.<br />
Source: BFS – Note: *Data based on estimation<br />
6.2.6 Price development of clothing<br />
For the last few years, the Swiss clothing market has permitted no<br />
significant price increases. Based on stable procurement costs but<br />
increased costs for personnel, rent, energy etc., the margins in all<br />
sectors have the tendency to become smaller. In this respect, the<br />
profit situation has become much worse for companies that are<br />
concentrated on the national market only. Therefore, many manufacturers<br />
are forced to concentrate on high-quality products, niche<br />
marketing, new fashion and exclusive lines or on export markets.<br />
The Swiss price index increased continuously but very slowly from<br />
2005 to 2008 at an average rate of 1.2%. In fact, there has been<br />
practically no inflation in recent years. Prices for clothing and shoes<br />
have decreased since 2005 by an average rate of 2.0%. More<br />
details can be taken from the table below.<br />
Table 63: Swiss national consumer price index, 2005-2008<br />
94<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
2005 2006 2007 2008 CAGR 05-08<br />
Clothing and shoes 92.3 94.1 94.3 98.1 2.00%<br />
Housing and energy 98.7 101.4 103.6 108.6 3.20%<br />
Food, beverages, tobaco 101.3 101.2 101.8 104.9 1.10%<br />
Total national consumer price index 100.0 100.5 101.2 103.7 1.20%<br />
Source: BFS – Note: Index 2005 = 100
6.3 Imports.<br />
6.3.1 Total imports<br />
<strong>Switzerland</strong> has an extremely liberal import regime for textiles<br />
(no import limitations, and some of the lowest import duties in the<br />
world).<br />
Clothing imports have increased from CHF 4.8 billion in 1990 to<br />
CHF 6.3 billion in 2008, this corresponds to a compound annual<br />
growth rate of 1.5%. More details can be taken from the table<br />
below, which shows the clothing import developments into <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />
from 1990 to 2008.<br />
Table 64: Swiss clothing imports, 1990-2008 [CHF billion]<br />
1990 2000 2007 2008 CAGR<br />
90-08<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 4.0 4.4 4.9 4.9 1.10%<br />
Underwear 0.5 0.7 0.8 0.8 2.60%<br />
Accessories 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.5 2.90%<br />
Total 4.8 5.4 6.2 6.3 1.50%<br />
Source: EZV<br />
6.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT)<br />
The outsourcing of local production process to low wage countries<br />
is continuing. Thus, the outward processing trade (OPT) of clothing<br />
manufacturers in <strong>Switzerland</strong> has increased too in the last few<br />
years and contributed to the growth of the Swiss clothing industry.<br />
There are no detailed statistics available for the last few years,<br />
as the import data are no longer specified for OPT and non-OPT<br />
clothing imports. A more detailed analysis is therefore not possible.<br />
6.3.3 Largest suppliers<br />
Table 65 summarises the major countries supplying outerwear to<br />
<strong>Switzerland</strong>. The neighbouring countries Germany and Italy remain<br />
the most important clothing suppliers for <strong>Switzerland</strong>. Almost<br />
55% of the clothing imported originates from these two EU countries.<br />
Professional and advanced marketing by the foreign brands,<br />
quick and easy communication and overnight truck deliveries are<br />
important reasons for this dominant position.<br />
Most of the well known European brands are at least partially produced<br />
or finished in low labour cost countries, whether in Eastern<br />
Europe, North Africa or elsewhere.<br />
The EU remains the by far most important trading partner in<br />
clothing for <strong>Switzerland</strong>. EFTA countries no longer have any importance<br />
as suppliers. The supply from developing countries increases<br />
and has gained competitiveness regarding design, fashion<br />
and qualitative aspects.<br />
Table 65: Largest supplying countries of clothing, 2000-2008 [CHF<br />
million]<br />
Position Country 2000 2007 2008 CAGR 2000-08<br />
1 Germany 1’662.9 1’944.3 1’949.6 2.01%<br />
2 Italy 968.2 1’547.7 1’489.0 5.53%<br />
3 China 627.6 625.7 653.4 0.50%<br />
4 France 486.0 496.5 533.4 1.17%<br />
5 Turkey 147.7 156.3 150.8 0.26%<br />
6 Austria 152.4 146.4 148.1 -0.36%<br />
7 India 113.1 145.4 142.3 2.91%<br />
8 Spain 98.6 124.5 137.7 4.26%<br />
9 Netherlands 76.1 128.5 133.3 7.26%<br />
10 Bangladesh 153.0 106.5 114.1 -3.60%<br />
Total 10 countries 4’485.6 5’421.8 5’451.7 2.47%<br />
Total worldwide 5’396.3 6’241.5 6’280.5 1.91%<br />
Source: EZV<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 95
6.4 Trade structure.<br />
6.4.1 Developments in the retail trade<br />
The liberalization of regulations governing clearance sales in the<br />
retail trade since 1997 has enabled Swiss retailers to initiate sales<br />
all year round, and not just during fixed periods. While smaller<br />
retailers in particular fear that the department stores and other big<br />
clothing stores will continue to put additional pressure on prices<br />
and margins by starting the summer and winter sales earlier each<br />
year, other trade sources mentioned the positive effect the liberalization<br />
has on shops forced to liquidate their goods in order to<br />
renovate or move the store.<br />
The sales volume in the clothing market has shrunk to its lowest<br />
level in the year 2000 and recovered from then on. This recovery is<br />
also due to the cessation of the import/export quotas on January<br />
1st, 2005 which had specially protected the European markets<br />
from cheap imports from China for years.<br />
Those groups who are most investing in clothes at present will<br />
also have the strongest population growth within the coming years,<br />
basically the age group from 35 to 65 years. People of the age<br />
Figure 9: Sales volume index for total sales and clothing sales, 1970 -2008<br />
Source: BFS<br />
96<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
group between 45 and 54 have been strong consumers already<br />
in the past, and this specific age group will influence the market<br />
positively.<br />
In general, the situation of the Swiss clothing retail market remains<br />
difficult, mainly due to more and more competition from foreign<br />
chains (Mango, Zara, H&M, C&A <strong>Switzerland</strong>) but also Swiss<br />
retailers growing stronger like Tally Weijl or Vögele. The specialised<br />
smaller and independent retailers are under pressure and<br />
often can only exist by ‘mixing different labels’ to be attractive for a<br />
specific target group. There is a continuing trend to verticalization<br />
at Swiss retail level, meaning to manage and control the whole<br />
sourcing and distribution process from design of the collection<br />
and production down to the distribution of the product range in<br />
self-owned retail outlets. This sales concept means a strict supply<br />
chain management and is increasingly used also by department<br />
stores and chains like Globus building up their own ‘retail brands’.<br />
The sales volume of the Swiss clothing industry in 2008 reached<br />
about CHF 2.01 billion with a share of 67% for the outerwear<br />
clothing. Local clothing production decreased by 2.2% from 2007<br />
to 2008. Exports also decreased from CHF 2.19 billion in 2007 to<br />
CHF 2.14 billion in 2008 (-2.6%).
6.4.2 Leading retailers<br />
The following clothing retailers are the important stores and shops<br />
in the Swiss market. Price competition is fierce and deemed dangerous<br />
by experts as customers are getting used to special offers.<br />
The biggest market players are H&M, Vögele, C&A <strong>Switzerland</strong>,<br />
Zara, the PKZ Group and department stores such as COOP, Globus,<br />
Migros and Manor.<br />
The Swedish HENNES & MAURITZ is currently the market leader.<br />
Established in <strong>Switzerland</strong> in the year 1978, H&M now operates<br />
73 stores throughout the country. It had a turnover of CHF 846<br />
million in 2009. H&M does not produce itself but has a network of<br />
more than 700 suppliers. 60% of production is placed in Asia. A<br />
key factor in success seems to be the strategy of cost leadership<br />
backed by the globally operating Swedish headquarters.<br />
CHARLES VÖGELE MODE AG is a Swiss-based fashion chain<br />
operating in <strong>Switzerland</strong>, Germany, Austria, Belgium, The Netherlands,<br />
Czech Republic, Poland, Hungary and Slovenia. In 2009,<br />
Vögele had 7'639 employees and 855 sales branches. Group<br />
turnover was CHF 1'689 million € in 2008/09. Vögele’s primary<br />
market strategy traditionally has been low price and still is, though<br />
effort has been made to ensure high quality as well. Two new<br />
corporate sectors have been created; “sourcing” and “new channel<br />
development”. This new sectors will strengthen Vögele's market<br />
position.<br />
CHARLES VÖGELE GROUP does not have production centres<br />
of its own. All clothes are obtained from external suppliers. Most<br />
purchase orders (about 95%) are placed directly with manufacturers<br />
all over the world and produced with Vögele own-labels. By<br />
the vertical organization, the costs are optimized and high quality<br />
standards can be maintained. Vögele runs a clear compliance<br />
strategy, expecting sustainability and responsibility of its suppliers,<br />
e.g. by following certain minimum social standards, environmental<br />
rules and product safety standards. The range consists of women's<br />
wear (59%), men's wear (31%) and children's wear (10%).<br />
The GLOBUS GROUP with its flagship store in Zurich employs<br />
2'630 employees and achieves a total sales volume of about CHF<br />
815 million yearly on a net selling space of 55'800 sq. m. With<br />
a square metre sales volume of over CHF 14'600 per year it is<br />
one of the most productive department stores of the world. The<br />
GLOBUS GROUP belongs to the MIGROS AG. The Migros Group,<br />
which is still operated as a cooperative, is the Swiss market leader<br />
in retailing but not in the clothing market. Migros has over 15% of<br />
Globus' shares.<br />
Migros puts high efforts in sustainability, fair trade and social responsibility<br />
of the company towards its own workers, its suppliers<br />
and society in general (‘Clean Clothes Campaign’). In 2008 the<br />
group's total turnover was CHF 25.75 billion (+13.5%). Migros has<br />
its own sourcing network for clothing all over the world, but also<br />
buys from European based producers and wholesalers.<br />
As of 2009 C&A has 96 stores in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. The market strategy<br />
aims at being a clothing house for the whole family with good<br />
prices and quality. It sells all kind of mid-priced clothing and aims<br />
to extend market share. However, C&A does not buy separately<br />
through their branch in <strong>Switzerland</strong>, but from Düsseldorf/Germany<br />
and the C&A purchasing centre EBSCO in Brussels.<br />
The PKZ GROUP with 495 employees in total owns several<br />
clothing chains. PKZ with 58 stores concentrates on men's wear<br />
with quality clothing of different labels. Burger is a men's wear<br />
shop. Feldpausch focuses on women's wear, Bluedog is a young<br />
fashion casual wear chain. In 2008, PKZ sold goods to more than<br />
1.1 million customers.<br />
The COOP GROUP runs quite varied store formats ranging from<br />
food to non-food and services. Coop offers a unique mix from<br />
branded articles to own brands and special brands (like Coop<br />
‘Naturaplan’). Numerous products of the Coop are from production<br />
plants of their own or from suppliers with whom they work very<br />
closely. The sales volume in the retail business reached CHF 19.3<br />
billion in 2008 which corresponds to a 17.2% of the Swiss market<br />
share. Over 53'000 employees work for the Coop Group.<br />
MANOR is the largest department store chain in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. It<br />
belongs in large part to the Lausanne based family Maus. Other<br />
divisions of the Manor Group are 'Fly' (furniture and home accessories),<br />
'Athleticum' (sports) and 'Jumbo' (Do-it-yourself articles).<br />
The Manor Group is one of the three largest Swiss retailers. The<br />
business employs about 11'000 people altogether. About 2'000<br />
persons are working in the textile division, which represents about<br />
one third of the whole Manor business.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 97
6.4.3 Distribution channels<br />
6.4.3.1 Retailers<br />
The distribution channels are grouped according to their basic<br />
structure into different kinds of retail businesses. More details<br />
about the development of the market share of the retail outlets can<br />
be taken from following table. The data indicates that the textile<br />
specialist stores play a dominant role among the clothing distributors<br />
in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. These specialists had a constant market share<br />
of 55% over the last years. They include chain stores and the<br />
independent retailers / boutiques and other specialised clothing<br />
retailers (including fur and leather wear outlets).<br />
The following Swiss retailers can be assigned to the specific distribution<br />
channels:<br />
• Clothing chains with own labels: Charles Vögele, WE-mode, Benetton,<br />
Hennes + Mauritz, C & A, Kookai, Esprit, Tally Weijl, Yendi,<br />
Chicorée, Pimkie, Orsay, Blackout, Zebra, Schaad Mode, Levi‘s<br />
Store, Mango, Zara<br />
• Clothing retailers with a ‘brand concept’: PKZ/BlueDog/Burger/<br />
Feldpausch, Schild, Beldona, Fein-Kaller, Bongenie-Grieder,<br />
Herren Globus, Spengler<br />
• Department stores: Globus, Manor, Coop, Jelmoli, Loeb, Migros<br />
and other department stores<br />
• Home shopping companies: Cornelia, Heine-Versand, Goldener<br />
Schnitt, Charles Veillon, Ackermann, Spengler, Jelmoli, Vögele,<br />
Damart Versand, Vedia, Bader. Walz and others<br />
• Hyper- and Supermarkets: Migros, Coop, Denner, Aldi Schweiz,<br />
Lidl Schweiz, Spar, Volg<br />
• Other Distributors (sport shops, sport specialist stores, various<br />
distributors) hold a market share of 9%.<br />
Low-price shops are not very popular in <strong>Switzerland</strong> as the consumers<br />
look for more than just low prices. For mid-price apparel,<br />
department stores and mail order companies are still appropriate<br />
and well accepted distribution channels.<br />
98<br />
l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Table 66: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]<br />
2001 2004 2009<br />
Specialists<br />
Non-specialists<br />
55 55 55<br />
Department/variety stores 15 13 12<br />
Home shopping companies 11 11 11<br />
Hyper- and supermarkets 10 10 13<br />
Other 9 11 9<br />
Total 100 100 100<br />
Source: TVS<br />
6.4.3.1.1 Specialists<br />
(including textile specialised retailers and clothing chains)<br />
These specialized clothing shops are still the main type of retail<br />
outlet for garments in <strong>Switzerland</strong>, namely chain stores, boutiques<br />
and other specialised clothing retailers. The market share of these<br />
shops has remained stable over the past years at around 55%.<br />
The major distribution channel among the textile specialist retailers<br />
in <strong>Switzerland</strong> are the clothing stores with several outlets.<br />
Apart from the national clothing multiples Vögele, Schild, and<br />
PKZ, there are many foreign retailers present in the Swiss clothing<br />
market.<br />
Several foreign chains that are active in <strong>Switzerland</strong> must be mentioned,<br />
such as the Swedish HENNES & MAURITZ GROUP, the<br />
Spanish retailer ZARA, the German ESPRIT, the Italian fashion<br />
company MAX MARA (aiming at international female shoppers)<br />
and the Danish VERO MODA as well as the Spanish MANGO.<br />
MANGO is a Spanish franchise company owning 13 shops in<br />
<strong>Switzerland</strong>, 1'220 all over the world including online-retailing<br />
(Mango MNG Group).<br />
ZARA is one of eight fashion brands retailers belonging to the<br />
Inditex group which lays stress on high vertical integration as a<br />
strategic factor in competition. Zara first opened in 1975 in Spain<br />
and is now present in over 40 countries with 1'188 stores. All of<br />
them have been designed to create a special atmosphere that will<br />
allow the client to feel the pleasure of buying fashion. The designers<br />
create new fashion that hits the market twice a week.<br />
The turnover was € 9.4 billion (2007) and € 10.4 billion (2008).<br />
Zara's share within the Inditex Group is 65.6%. In <strong>Switzerland</strong>,<br />
Zara has had 10 stores since 2002.
Another new clothing retailer is VERO MODA with 38 shops. Vero<br />
Moda <strong>Switzerland</strong> belongs to ‘Bestseller Wholesale’. Bestseller is<br />
a family-owned clothing company founded in Denmark in 1975.<br />
Today Bestseller comprises 10 brands including Vero Moda.<br />
The Swiss chain TALLY WEIJL is another international ‘textile success<br />
story’. The market target is ‘the woman who likes to be sexy’.<br />
TALLY WEIJL operates 74 shops in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. With a turnover<br />
of 500 mn CHF in 2008 and more than 500 shops in 30 countries,<br />
TALLY WEIJL has become an important player.<br />
Market share: 55%, Trend: Stable at 55%<br />
6.4.3.1.2 Department/variety stores<br />
Department stores play the second most important role among the<br />
distribution channels, with a market share of 12% in 2009. Their<br />
market share has declined since 2001 (15%).<br />
One of the major department stores in <strong>Switzerland</strong> is GLOBUS<br />
AG, a department store with branches in all major Swiss cities,<br />
which sells fashion for men, women and children in the mid and<br />
upper price range, as well as fashion accessories, general consumer<br />
products and food.<br />
Another major Swiss player is the MANOR AG, a department<br />
store with branches in the whole of <strong>Switzerland</strong>, operating clothing<br />
departments for men, women and children in the lower to mid price<br />
category, including fashion accessories and general consumer<br />
products.<br />
The LOEB HOLDING (a traditional family company in Bern) is a<br />
department store with five outlets. Loeb owns several clothing and<br />
non-clothing companies and has a total turnover of CHF 111.4<br />
million (2008/09). The five Loeb department stores only represent<br />
one part of the Loeb Holding.<br />
JELMOLI AG is a department store with significant apparel sales<br />
for men, women and children featuring international brands<br />
concentrated on the mid to upper price range. With its ‘two-line<br />
business strategy’ - retail business and retail real estate business -<br />
Jelmoli has managed to change the original department store into<br />
a successful, growing and profitable specialities retail business<br />
unit. Due to use of synergies at retail level, high profitability has<br />
been achieved.<br />
Market share: 12%, Trend: Declining<br />
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6.4.3.1.3 Home shopping companies<br />
The mail-order business is the fourth most important retail channel<br />
for clothing in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. The market share of mail-order houses<br />
in <strong>Switzerland</strong> remained stable at 11% over the last years.<br />
Market share: 11%, Trend: Stable<br />
6.4.3.1.4 Hyper- and supermarkets<br />
Hyper- and supermarkets are the second most important retail<br />
channel for clothing after the specialists. The market share in 2009<br />
was 13%.<br />
MIGROS and COOP with their stores are the largest retailers in<br />
<strong>Switzerland</strong>, with activities in super- and hypermarkets.<br />
Denner is the leading Swiss food discounter. Denner has a consistent<br />
discount policy: Lowest prices combined with highest quality<br />
with a limited number of articles.<br />
Aldi steped in the Swiss market in 2005 and achieved in 2009 an<br />
estimated turnover of 900 mn CHF with 100 markets. Aldi is known<br />
mainly as food retailer but offers on a weeky changing base a wide<br />
range of garments at a very low price.<br />
Market share: 13%, Trend: Increasing<br />
6.4.3.1.5 Others<br />
This category primarily includes sport shops, sport specialist<br />
stores, street markets and ex factory sales (directly from the<br />
fashion manufacturer through ‘factory outlet centres’). Another<br />
form of distribution is ‘consumer fairs’. For the manufacturer from<br />
abroad, this target group is very difficult to approach as they normally<br />
do not import on their own. They buy mainly from importers/<br />
wholesalers according to their own specifications.<br />
Market share: 9%, Trend: Stable<br />
6.4.3.2 Sales intermediaries<br />
6.4.3.2.1 Clothing manufacturers<br />
The clothing manufacturers in <strong>Switzerland</strong> face a difficult market<br />
situation. The total turnover of the Swiss clothing industry amounted<br />
to CHF 2.0 billion in 2008.<br />
Swiss clothing manufacturers know the needs of the Swiss customer,<br />
but their domestic production costs are too high to compete
with imports in the lower or mid price range. Thus, most clothing<br />
manufacturers look for production possibilities abroad.<br />
6.4.3.2.2 Central buying associations<br />
One major Swiss central buying association is the ‘Mode Schweiz’<br />
(formerly ‘ez Fashion Center’). It has more than 60 members,<br />
mainly independent retailers. The buying association operates on<br />
the basis of long-term partnerships, often with very close links to<br />
local clothing producers.<br />
The members of the buying-association ‘Inter-Sport’ originate from<br />
the active sportswear and sports articles sector, the organisation<br />
is closely linked to the German based Inter-Sport in Heidelberg.<br />
Some of the Swiss clothing retailers are even members in the<br />
larger German buying associations such as Katag in Bielefeld.<br />
6.4.3.2.3 Sales agents<br />
Sales agents for the Swiss market are normally located in the<br />
country where the clothing is imported from, e.g. in the major<br />
Asian cities like Hong Kong, Singapore, Shanghai, New Delhi or<br />
Istanbul.<br />
The overwhelming part of the buying process is handled by the<br />
importing retailer directly. Clothing manufacturers from abroad<br />
must contact these ‘sourcing offices’ in their respective country or<br />
contact the buyer at the retailer’s or manufacturer’s headquarter<br />
directly in <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />
6.4.3.2.4 Importers / wholesalers<br />
Analysis has revealed that the large majority of Swiss importers<br />
are distributors for foreign European brands selling into <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />
Often, such importers have their own shop or boutique with highpriced<br />
clothing and fear low quality imports. Only a few show some<br />
interest in imports from outside Europe. The situation remains<br />
unchanged, that most of the small retailers/importers are not in the<br />
position to order sufficient quantities, thus orders e.g. from Asia<br />
or South America will not be worthwhile for them. Even middlesized<br />
retailers are sometimes reluctant to do so, but regret at the<br />
same time not having the possibility to source from developing and<br />
emerging countries. Thus, with the general increase of clothing<br />
imports into <strong>Switzerland</strong>, the importance of Swiss wholesalers and<br />
importers has increased and the ‘need’ for imported goods also for<br />
smaller retailers due to the price pressure in the market has generally<br />
increased. The situation is unchanged, that a considerable<br />
share of clothing imports into <strong>Switzerland</strong> is handled by German<br />
importers, as they buy in overseas markets anyway to a very large<br />
extent and can offer the service to neighbouring Swiss retailers as<br />
well.<br />
6.5 Swiss fashion trade fairs.<br />
Reliable trade sources have repeatedly mentioned that the participation<br />
in European fashion trade fairs by manufacturers from<br />
emerging or developing countries, frequently visited by Swiss<br />
buyers, are the best and most efficient way to establish initial<br />
contacts with Swiss wholesalers and distributors.<br />
The most important Swiss trade event for men’s, women’s and<br />
children’s wear at the ‘TMC Fashion Centre’ in Zürich (TMC), it has<br />
a clear national character. Participation in these so called ‘selling<br />
days’ (to the retailers) are restricted to agents running a showroom<br />
in the TMC. The ‘Textile & Mode Center’ (TMC) was set up as a<br />
wholesale centre for textiles and clothing in August 1978.<br />
Swiss buyers, whether they are in charge of department stores,<br />
specialized retailers, importers, Home shopping companies tend<br />
to visit trade fairs mostly for information purposes, but also to find<br />
new contacts.<br />
Clothing fairs in other European countries are quite popular<br />
among Swiss retailers.<br />
Table 67: Swiss fashion trade fairs 2010<br />
Trade fair Date <strong>Location</strong><br />
TMC men 08. - 11.02.2010 Zurich<br />
TMC dessous 15. - 18.02.2010 Zurich<br />
TMC women 15. - 18.02.2010 Zurich<br />
TMC kids 22. - 25.02.2010 Zurich<br />
TMC sport 22. - 04.03.2010 Zurich<br />
TMC sport<br />
Source: Auma, TMC<br />
22. - 04.03.2010 Zurich<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 100
6.6 List of major buyers<br />
in <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />
Clothing multiples<br />
Bernie‘s AG<br />
Postfach 3925<br />
CH - 8021 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 43 244 75 75<br />
Fax: +41 43 244 75 76<br />
www.bernies.ch<br />
Blue Dog<br />
(company: PKZ Feldpausch)<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 46<br />
CH - 8010 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 44 736 33 33<br />
Fax: +41 44 736 33 00<br />
www.bluedog.ch<br />
Bon Genie<br />
Brunschwig & Cie SA<br />
34, rue du Marché<br />
CH - 1204 Genève<br />
Tel.: +41 22 818 11 11<br />
Fax: +41 22 818 11 99<br />
www.bongenie-grieder.ch<br />
Charles Vögele AG<br />
Gwattstrasse 15<br />
CH - 8808 Pfäffikon<br />
Tel.: +41 55 416 71 11<br />
Fax: +41 55 410 37 43<br />
www.voegele.ch<br />
Fein-Kaller & Co. AG<br />
Bachmattstr. 53<br />
CH - 8048 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 44 434 83 83<br />
Fax: +41 44 434 83 43<br />
www.fein-kaller.ch<br />
101 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Product range:<br />
high fashion & casual<br />
Price segment:<br />
high price level<br />
Number of outlets: 5<br />
Product range: Jeans,<br />
sports- and casual wear<br />
Price segment: mid and<br />
high price level<br />
Number of outlets: 12<br />
Note: brand and fashion<br />
oriented – exclusive<br />
retailer<br />
Product range:<br />
all kinds of clothing<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid to high price level<br />
Number of outlets: Bonnard<br />
u. Cie 3<br />
shops, Bon Genie 7,<br />
Grieder 7, 10 boutiques<br />
under Bon Genie<br />
Product range:<br />
all kind of clothing<br />
Price segment:<br />
low price level<br />
Number of outlets: 157<br />
Product range: menswear<br />
and womenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
high price level<br />
Number of outlets: 6<br />
Herren Globus Zentrale<br />
Industriestraße 171<br />
CH - 8957 Spreitenbach<br />
Tel.: +41 58 455 30 30<br />
Fax: +41 58 455 31 88<br />
www.herrenglobus.ch<br />
Jeans & Co. AG<br />
Haldenstr. 1<br />
CH - 6340 Baar<br />
Tel.: +41 41 768 60 50<br />
Fax: +41 41 768 60 59<br />
www.jeans-co.ch<br />
Modehaus MODEVA AG<br />
Muttenzerstr. 109<br />
CH - 4133 Pratteln<br />
Tel.: +41 61 821 91 91<br />
Fax: +41 61 821 92 20<br />
www.modeva.ch<br />
Pasito-Fricker AG<br />
Pfadackerstr. 7<br />
CH - 8957 Spreitenbach<br />
Tel.: +41 56 418 17 77<br />
www.pasito.ch<br />
PKZ Burger-Kehl & Co.<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 46<br />
CH - 8010 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 44 736 33 33<br />
Fax: +41 44 736 33 00<br />
www.pkz.ch<br />
Schaad Mode<br />
Tannewäg 1<br />
CH – 8197 Rafz<br />
www.schaadmode.ch<br />
Schild AG<br />
Zentralverwaltung<br />
CH - 6002 Luzern<br />
Tel.: +41 41 429 55 55<br />
Fax: +41 41 429 57 57<br />
www.schild.ch<br />
Product range: Department<br />
store for men<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid-priced items<br />
Number of outlets: 22<br />
Product range:<br />
casual wear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid price level<br />
Number of outlets: 10<br />
Product range:<br />
womenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
high price level<br />
Number of outlets: 26<br />
Product range: womenswear,<br />
menswear, shoes<br />
Price segment: mid and<br />
high price level<br />
Number of outlets: 18<br />
Product range: all kind of<br />
clothing incl. jeans wear<br />
Price segment: mid and<br />
high price level<br />
Number of outlets: 30<br />
Product range: Women’s<br />
outerwear for best age<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid price level<br />
Number of outlets: 20<br />
Product range: clothing for<br />
men and women<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid price level<br />
Number of outlets: 41
Clothing multiples<br />
TALLY WEIJL Trading AG<br />
Service and Support Center<br />
Viaduktstrasse 42<br />
CH-4051 Basel<br />
Tel: +41 (0)61 568 60 00<br />
Fax: +41 (0)61 568 62 00<br />
contact@tally-weijl.com<br />
www.tally-weijl.com<br />
Wartmann AG<br />
Marktgasse 45 / Postfach<br />
CH - 3001 Bern<br />
Tel.: +41 31 320 18 18<br />
Fax: +41 31 312 16 55<br />
www.mode-wartmann.ch<br />
Table 18: Department stores<br />
Globus AG Headquarter<br />
Eichstrasse 27<br />
CH - 8045 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 44 455 21 11<br />
Fax: +41 44 463 35 02<br />
www.globus.ch<br />
Jelmoli AG<br />
Seidengasse 1<br />
CH - 8001 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 44 220 44 11<br />
Fax: +41 44 220 40 00<br />
www.jelmoli.ch<br />
LOEB AG<br />
Bälliz 39<br />
CH - 3600 Thun<br />
Tel.: +41 33 227 51 51<br />
Fax: +41 33 227 51 52<br />
www.loeb.ch<br />
Product range:<br />
womenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
high price level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
74 (500 worldwide)<br />
Product range:<br />
womenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid price level<br />
Number of outlets: 26<br />
(stores, shops, boutiques<br />
also as a part in other<br />
businesses)<br />
Product range:<br />
all kind of clothing<br />
Price segment: low and<br />
mid price level<br />
Number of stores: 12<br />
Product range: all kind of<br />
clothing and textile<br />
Price segment: mid and<br />
high price level<br />
Number of outlets: 1 large<br />
outlet in Zürich - also<br />
includes mail order<br />
catalogue<br />
Product range:<br />
all kind of products<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid price level<br />
Number of outlets: 10<br />
Manor AG<br />
Rebgasse 34<br />
CH - 4058 Basel<br />
Tel.: +41 61 686 11 11<br />
Fax: +41 61 681 11 92<br />
www.manor.ch<br />
Schaufelberger AG<br />
Bälliz 26<br />
CH - 3600 Thun<br />
Tel.: +41 33 225 37 37<br />
Fax: +41 33 225 37 38<br />
www.schaufelberger-thun.ch<br />
Table 19: Mail order companies<br />
Ackermann Versandhaus AG<br />
Fürstenlandstrasse 35<br />
CH - 9001 St. Gallen<br />
Tel.: +41 848 85 85 11<br />
Fax: +41 848 85 85 12<br />
kundendienst@ackermann.ch<br />
www.ackermann.ch<br />
BON´A PARTE MODE AG<br />
Fürstenlandstrasse 35<br />
CH - 9001 St. Gallen<br />
Tel.: +41 848 44 08 81<br />
Fax: +41 848 44 08 85<br />
www.bonaparte.ch<br />
Happy Size-Company<br />
Versand-handels AG<br />
Postfach<br />
CH - 9025 St. Gallen<br />
Tel.: +41 848 55 66 83<br />
Fax: +41 848 55 66 84<br />
www.happy-size.ch<br />
Heine<br />
Stephanie Lerch<br />
Postfach 8088 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 0848 80 00 60<br />
www.heine.ch<br />
service@heine.ch<br />
Product range:<br />
all kind of clothing<br />
and textile<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid price level<br />
Number of outlets: 80<br />
stores<br />
Product range: men’s and<br />
womenswear, textiles<br />
Price segment: mid level<br />
Product range: professional<br />
wear, ladies’, men’s,<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid price level<br />
Note: no outlets, only mail<br />
order<br />
Product range:<br />
Men’s and womenswear,<br />
boys’ and girls’<br />
Product Range:<br />
men’s and womenswear<br />
Companies: Happy Size<br />
and Men<br />
Product range:<br />
ladies’, men’s, childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid and high<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 102
Table 19: Mail order companies<br />
Jelmoli Versand AG<br />
Postfach<br />
CH - 8088 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 848 840 300<br />
Fax: +41 848 840 305<br />
www.jelmoli.ch<br />
La Redoute CH SA<br />
Rue de la Gare 13<br />
CH - 1820 Montreux 1 VD<br />
Tel.: +41 21 966 50 00<br />
Fax: +41 21 966 50 01<br />
menswear24.ch<br />
Momasi SA<br />
Avenue de la Gare 42<br />
CH - 2800 Delémont<br />
Tel.: +41 79 828 75 77<br />
www.menswear24.ch<br />
Mona Versand GmbH & Co.<br />
Wehrstr. 12<br />
CH - 9202 Gossau<br />
Tel.: +41 71 314 83 00<br />
Fax: +41 71 314 83 09<br />
www.mona.ch<br />
Rotex Versand<br />
Industrie Wet 4042<br />
CH - 4614 Hägendorf<br />
Tel.: +41 62 216 43 43<br />
Fax: +41 62 216 43 45<br />
www.rotex.ch<br />
Spengler Versand AG<br />
Fürstenlandstrasse 35<br />
CH - 9001 St. Gallen<br />
Tel.: +41 71 274 61 61<br />
Fax: +41 71 274 61 62<br />
www.spengler.ch<br />
Tchibo (Schweiz) AG<br />
Industriestrasse 19<br />
CH- 8304 Wallisellen<br />
Tel: +41 (0)43/233 45 00<br />
Fax: +41 (0)43/233 45 90<br />
kundenservice@tchibo.ch<br />
www.tchibo.ch<br />
103 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Product range: all kinds of<br />
clothing and textile<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid and high<br />
Product range: ladies’,<br />
men’s, childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid and high<br />
Product range: Menswear<br />
Product range:<br />
ladies’, menswear<br />
Product range:<br />
professional wear, leisure<br />
wear<br />
Product range: all kind of<br />
clothing and textile<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid price level<br />
Product range: ladies’,<br />
men’s, childrenswear<br />
Forecast for 2010: 100<br />
shop-in-shops with COOP<br />
Veillon SA<br />
Route de Buyère 2<br />
CH - 1017 Lausanne<br />
Tel.: +41 21 706 92 17<br />
Fax: +41 21 706 98 14<br />
www.veillon.ch<br />
Vögele AG<br />
Gwattstrasse 15<br />
CH - 8808 Pfäffikon<br />
Tel.: +41 55 416 71 11<br />
Fax: +41 55 410 37 43<br />
www.voegele.ch<br />
Wullehus-Mode Versandhaus<br />
AG<br />
Emmentalstr. 4<br />
CH - 3510 Konolfingen<br />
Tel.: +41 31 791 01 47<br />
Fax: +41 31 791 10 19<br />
www.wullehus.ch<br />
Grocery super- and hypermarkets<br />
Aldi Suisse Ag<br />
Zentraleinkauf<br />
Verwaltungsgebäude Z<br />
Postfach 150<br />
CH-8423 Embrach-Embraport<br />
www.aldi-suisse.ch<br />
COOP Schweiz<br />
Thiersteiner Allee 12<br />
CH - 4002 Basel<br />
Tel.: +41-61 336 66 66<br />
Fax: +41-61 336 60 40<br />
www.coop.ch<br />
Denner AG Zentrale<br />
Grubenstrasse 10<br />
CH - 8045 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 44 455 11 11<br />
www.denner.ch<br />
Product range: ladies’,<br />
men’s, childrenswear<br />
Product range:<br />
all kind of clothing<br />
Price segment: low price<br />
level<br />
Product range:<br />
all kind of clothing<br />
for age group 40+ as<br />
target group<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid price level<br />
Number of outlets: 4<br />
shops + mail order<br />
Product range:<br />
high fashion & casual<br />
Price segment:<br />
low price level<br />
Number of outlets: 100<br />
Product range:<br />
all kind of products<br />
Price segment: low and<br />
mid price level<br />
Number of outlets: 11<br />
department<br />
stores, more than 1’700<br />
shops<br />
Number of outlets in CH:<br />
430 stores and 300 indivivual<br />
retail traders
Grocery super- and hypermarkets<br />
Jumbo Markt AG<br />
Industriestrasse 33<br />
CH - 8305 Dietlikon<br />
Tel.: +41 44 805 54 54<br />
Fax: +41 44 805 54 50<br />
www.jumbo.ch<br />
Lidl Schweiz DL GmbH,<br />
Neckarsulm<br />
Zweigniederlassung Weinfelden<br />
Dunantstrasse 14<br />
CH - 8570 Weinfelden<br />
www.lidl.ch<br />
Migros-Genossenschaft-<br />
Bund<br />
Limmatstrasse 152<br />
CH - 8005 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 44 277 21 11<br />
Fax: +41 44 277 25 25<br />
www.migros.ch<br />
Swiss clothing manufacturers<br />
Algo S.A.<br />
Badenerstrasse 274<br />
CH - 8004 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 44 240 41 66<br />
Fax: +41 44 240 41 67<br />
www.algosa.ch<br />
(high priced womenswear)<br />
Akris Hauptsitz<br />
Felsenstrasse 40<br />
CH-9001 St.Gallen<br />
Schweiz<br />
Telefon +41 71 22 777 22<br />
Fax +41 71 22 777 00<br />
www.akris.ch<br />
akris@akris.ch<br />
(very high priced womenswear)<br />
Product range:<br />
all kinds of clothing<br />
Price segment: very low<br />
price level<br />
Number of outlets: 39<br />
Product range:<br />
all kinds of clothing<br />
Price segment: low price<br />
range with own brands<br />
Number of fashion outlets:<br />
30<br />
Forecast until end of<br />
2010: another 30<br />
Product range:<br />
all kinds of clothing<br />
Price segment: low price<br />
range with own brands<br />
Number of fashion outlets:<br />
134<br />
10 Migros Co-operative<br />
societies<br />
Ajotex SA<br />
Route de Coeuve 37-41<br />
CH - 2900 Porrentruy<br />
Tel.: +41 32 465 89 89<br />
Fax: +41 32 465 89 85<br />
www.jic.ch/ajotex<br />
(men / women / child wear)<br />
alba Albin Breitenmoser<br />
AG<br />
Zielstrasse 38<br />
CH - 9050 Appenzell<br />
Tel.: +41 71 788 91 11<br />
Fax: +41 71 787 46 58<br />
info@alba-creation.ch<br />
www.alba-gruppe.ch<br />
(Professional clothes)<br />
Alumo Textil AG<br />
Zielstrasse 38<br />
CH - 9050 Appenzell<br />
Tel.: +41 71 788 91 55<br />
Fax: +41 71 788 91 54<br />
www.alumo.ch<br />
(produces shirts)<br />
Angéloz Michel SA<br />
Route de l’Industrie 3<br />
CH - 1680 Romont<br />
Tel.: +41 26 651 92 80<br />
Fax: +41 26 651 92 89<br />
www.michelangeloz.ch<br />
info@michelangeloz.ch<br />
(mid-priced menswear and<br />
womenswear)<br />
Blumer F. & Cie. AG<br />
Industrie Mühle 19<br />
CH - 8762 Schwanden GL<br />
Tel.: +41 55 644 11 17<br />
Fax: +41 55 644 39 49<br />
info@f-blumer.ch<br />
www.f-blumer.ch<br />
(men’s, women’s, childrenswear)<br />
Brülisauer SA<br />
Via motta 45<br />
CH - 6850 Mendrisio<br />
Tel.: +41 91 640 64 40<br />
Fax: +41 91 640 64 44<br />
www.bruli.com<br />
info@bruli.com<br />
(menswear)<br />
Calida AG Bodywear<br />
Industrie Münigen,<br />
CH - 6210 Sursee<br />
Tel.: +41 41 925 45 25<br />
Fax: +41 41 925 42 84<br />
www.calida.com<br />
info@calida.com<br />
(men’s, women’s and<br />
children’s<br />
under- and nightwear)<br />
a ma chère AG<br />
Dufourstrasse 167<br />
8008 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 43 456 30 01<br />
Fax. +41 43 456 30 09<br />
info@a-ma-chere.ch<br />
www.a-ma-chere.ch<br />
Beca Ferretti SA<br />
Via della Posta-Zona 2<br />
CP 257<br />
CH - 6934 Bioggio<br />
Tel.: +41 91 605 57 76<br />
Fax: +49 91 604 67 87<br />
info@becaferretti.ch<br />
www.becaferretti.ch<br />
(menswear, professional<br />
clothes)<br />
Boller, Winkler AG<br />
(no street name)<br />
CH - 8488 Turbenthal<br />
Tel.: +41 52 396 22 22<br />
Fax: +41 52 396 22 00<br />
www.bonjour.ch<br />
(clothing and other textiles)<br />
Braunschweig P. & R. AG<br />
Badener Strasse 120<br />
CH - 8026 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 44 241 97 30<br />
Fax: +41 44 242 94 28<br />
(mid- and high-priced coats<br />
and<br />
jackets for women)<br />
Camiro sagl<br />
Strada Cantonale<br />
CH - 6863 Besazio<br />
Tel.: +49 91 646 61 18<br />
Fax: +49 91 646 69 95<br />
camiro@starsofti.com<br />
(menswear)<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 104
Swiss clothing manufacturers<br />
Cavalco Confezioni SA<br />
Via Industria 7<br />
CH - 6826 Riva San Vitale<br />
Tel.: +41 91 648 22 63<br />
Fax: +41 91 648 23 64<br />
www.cavalco.ch<br />
(menswear)<br />
Consitex SA (belongs to Ermenegildo<br />
ZEGNA-Groupe)<br />
Via Laveggio 16,<br />
Casella postale 155<br />
CH- 6850 Mendrisio<br />
Tel.: +41 091 640 76 00<br />
Fax: +41 091 640 76 19<br />
direzione_consitex@zegnaermenegildo.it<br />
www.zegna.com<br />
(high priced menswear)<br />
Dürsteler J. & Co. AG<br />
Zürcherstrasse 47<br />
CH - 8620 Wetzikon<br />
Tel.: +41 44 933 60 70<br />
Fax: +41 44 933 60 71<br />
www.faerben.ch<br />
info@faerben.ch<br />
(men’s, women’s and childrenswear)<br />
Feldinger Gabriel AG<br />
Lettenweg 40<br />
CH - 4123 Allschwil<br />
Tel.: +41 61 481 05 05<br />
Fax: +41 61 481 05 39<br />
(mid-priced items womenswear)<br />
Ganzoni & Cie AG<br />
Gröblistrasse 8<br />
CH - 9014 St. Gallen<br />
Tel.: +41 71 279 33 66<br />
Fax: +41 71 274 29 89<br />
www.sigvaris.com<br />
info@sigvaris.com<br />
(men’s, women’s and childrenswear)<br />
105 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Conceprio SA<br />
Corzoneso Piano<br />
CH - 6715 Dongio<br />
Tel.: +41 91 871 12 43<br />
Fax: +41 91 871 25 31<br />
Conceprio.sa@bluewin.ch<br />
(men’s and womenswear)<br />
Dresdensia SA<br />
Via Fola 13<br />
CH - 6963 Pregassona<br />
Tel.: +41 91 971 60 63<br />
Fax: +41 91 971 11 52<br />
(men’s and childrenswear)<br />
Fabric Frontline Zurich AG<br />
Ankerstrasse 118<br />
CH - 8026 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 44 241 64 55<br />
Fax: +41 44 242 20 02<br />
www.fabricfrontline.ch<br />
info@fabricfrontline.ch<br />
(men’s and womenswear)<br />
Filtex AG<br />
Teufenerstrasse 1<br />
CH - 9001 St. Gallen<br />
Tel.: +41 71 221 13 13<br />
Fax: +41 71 221 13 14<br />
www.filtex.ch<br />
info@filtex.ch<br />
(women’s and childrenswear)<br />
Gessner AG<br />
Florhofstrasse 13<br />
CH - 8820 Wädenswil<br />
Tel.: +41 44 789 86 00<br />
Fax: +41 44 789 86 01<br />
www.gessner.ch<br />
info@gessner.ch<br />
(womenswear)<br />
Hagmann Hosenmode AG<br />
Industriestrasse 9<br />
CH - 4657 Dulliken<br />
Tel.: +41 62 285 55 55<br />
Fax: +41 62 285 55 69<br />
www.hagman.ch<br />
info@hagman.ch<br />
(menswear, especially<br />
trousers)<br />
Herz Heinrich AG Julietta<br />
Via Campagna 21<br />
CH - 6987 Caslano<br />
Tel.: +41 91 606 73 43<br />
Fax: +41 91 606 21 60<br />
www.heinrichherz.ch<br />
(womenswear)<br />
Hugo Boss Industries<br />
Via Passeggiata 7<br />
CH - 6883 Novazzano<br />
Tel.: +41 91 696 17 17<br />
Fax: +41 91 696 17 78<br />
www.hugoboss.com<br />
info@hugoboss.com<br />
(menswear)<br />
Kauf AG – The Swiss Shirt<br />
Maker<br />
Rosenbüelstrasse 50<br />
CH - 9642 Ebnat-Kappel<br />
Tel.: +41 71 992 60 60<br />
Fax: +41 71 992 60 65<br />
www.kauf.ch<br />
info@kauf.ch<br />
(shirts for department stores<br />
and mail-order comp.)<br />
leywa GmbH<br />
Fabrikstrasse<br />
CH - 8756 Mitlödi<br />
Tel.: +41 55 644 46 46<br />
Fax: +41 55 644 46 47<br />
www.leywa.ch<br />
(men’s, women’s and childrenswear)<br />
Hanro Ag<br />
BenzburGeg 18<br />
CH - 4410 Liestal 18<br />
Tel.: +41 61 926 88 22<br />
Fax: +41 61 926 88 27<br />
www.hanro.ch<br />
info@hanro.ch<br />
(men’s and women’s under-<br />
and nightwear)<br />
Hofmann + Co AG Krawattenfabrik<br />
Im Eisernen Zeit 51<br />
CH - 8057 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 44 362 37 54<br />
Fax: +41 44 362 37 19<br />
www.hofmannties.ch<br />
(men’s accessories and ties)<br />
ISA Sallmann AG<br />
Weinfelderstrasse 15<br />
CH - 8580 Amriswil<br />
Tel.: +41 71 414 24 44<br />
Fax: +41 71 414 24 55<br />
www.isabodywear.ch<br />
(men’s, women’s and childrenswear)<br />
Lehsa Strickwarenfabrik<br />
Eichenweg 16<br />
CH - 4900 Langenthal<br />
Tel.: +41 62 922 50 44<br />
Fax: +41 62 923 08 38<br />
www.lehsa.ch<br />
(men’s and women’s knitwear)<br />
Madie’s Fashion S.A.<br />
Via Gaggiolo 5<br />
CH - 6855 Stabio<br />
Tel.: +41 91 647 11 53<br />
Fax: +41 91 647 32 53<br />
(womenswear)
Swiss clothing manufacturers<br />
Mammut Sports Group AG<br />
Headoffice <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />
Pf, Birren 5<br />
CH-5703 Seon<br />
Tel. +41 (0) 62 769 81 81<br />
Fax. +41 (0) 62 769 83 11<br />
www.mammutsportsgroup.<br />
com<br />
www.mammut.ch<br />
www.toko.ch<br />
(sportswear, outdoor jackets)<br />
Mitloedi Textildruck AG<br />
Fabrikstrasse<br />
CH - 8756 Mitlödi<br />
Tel.: +41 55 647 88 33<br />
Fax: +41 55 647 88 13<br />
www.mitloedi.com<br />
mail@mitloedi.com<br />
(womenswear)<br />
Strellson AG<br />
Sonnenwiesenstrasse 21<br />
CH - 8280 Kreuzlingen<br />
Tel.: +41 71 686 33 33<br />
Fax: +41 71 688 64 94<br />
www.strellson.com<br />
(high priced men’s and<br />
womenswear)<br />
TOPA Konfektions AG<br />
Birkenstrasse 109<br />
CH - 9443 Widnau<br />
Tel.: +41 71 720 03 05<br />
Fax: +41 71 720 03 07<br />
www.topa-ag.com<br />
(men’s, women’s and childrenswear,<br />
OPT)<br />
Vollmoeller Textil AG /<br />
Jockey International<br />
Bahnstrasse 21<br />
CH - 8610 Uster<br />
Tel.: +41 44 905 22 22<br />
Fax: +41 44 940 53 33<br />
www.jockey.ch<br />
(men’s and women’s wear)<br />
Metzler <strong>Switzerland</strong> & Co.<br />
AG<br />
Hauptstrasse 33<br />
CH - 9436 Balgach<br />
Tel.: +41 71 722 21 43<br />
Fax: +41 71 722 72 29<br />
www.metzlerhemdem.ch<br />
(shirts and blouses, T-shirts<br />
& sweatshirts for indep.)<br />
Noga Mode S.A.<br />
Via Orti 1<br />
CH - 6928 Manno<br />
Tel.: +41 91 605 48 88<br />
Fax: +41 91 605 48 88<br />
www.nogamode.com<br />
(men’s and women’s wear)<br />
SwissTex Logistics AG<br />
Funkenstrasse 10<br />
CH - 4800 Zofingen<br />
Tel.: +41 62 745 33 33<br />
Fax: +41 62 745 33 00<br />
www.swisstex.net<br />
(menswear and womenswear)<br />
Traxler AG<br />
Unterdorf 7<br />
CH - 8363 Bichelsee<br />
Tel.: +41 71 971 19 43<br />
Fax: +41 71 971 31 29<br />
www.traxler.ch<br />
(knitwear, shirts/blouses,<br />
ecological<br />
clothing men/women)<br />
Zewi und Bébé-Jou AG<br />
Knonauerstr. 58<br />
CH - 6330 Cham<br />
Tel.: +41 41 784 10 00<br />
Fax: +41 41 784 10 01<br />
www.zewiundbebe-jou.ch<br />
info@zewiundbebe-jou.ch<br />
(mid- / high-priced coats<br />
and jakkets for children)<br />
Zimmerli Textil AG<br />
Feldstrasse 25<br />
CH - 4663 Aarburg<br />
Tel.: +41 62 791 41 41<br />
Fax: +41 62 791 38 72<br />
www.zimmerli.biz<br />
(high priced underwear)<br />
Buying associations<br />
ez Fashion Center<br />
TMC 3<br />
Talackerstrasse 13<br />
CH - 8065 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 44 874 90 10<br />
Fax: +41 44 874 90 19<br />
www.ezfashion.ch<br />
Pandinavia Import Export<br />
Spitalackerstrasse 63<br />
CH - 3000 Bern 25<br />
Tel.: +41 31 331 40 32<br />
Fax: +41 31 333 06 93<br />
www.pandinavia.ch<br />
info@pandinavia.ch<br />
(Importer/Distributor of men’s<br />
apparel)<br />
Importers / wholesalers<br />
WE <strong>Switzerland</strong> AG<br />
Im Langacker 16<br />
CH - 5405 Baden-Dättwil<br />
Tel.: +41 56 483 03 83<br />
Fax: +41 56 483 03 70<br />
www.we-fashion.com<br />
(Importer/Distributor of men‘s<br />
apparel, Dutch owned company)<br />
Intersport International<br />
Holding AG<br />
Obere Zollgasse 7<br />
CH - 3072 Ostermundigen<br />
Tel.: +41 31 930 71 11<br />
Fax: +41 31 930 71 21<br />
www.intersport.ch<br />
info@intersport.ch<br />
(jeans and active sportswear<br />
in mid price level)<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 106
7. United Kingdom.<br />
7.1 General economic situation.<br />
The UK entered a recession in Q2 of 2008, according to the UK<br />
Office of National Statistics (ONS). The revised ONS figures of<br />
November 2009 showed that the UK had suffered six consecutive<br />
quarters of negative growth. As of the end of November 2009, the<br />
economy had shrunk by 5.8%, making the 2008-2009 recession<br />
the longest since records began. In December 2009, the Office<br />
of National Statistics revised figures for the third quarter of 2009<br />
showed that the economy shrank by 0.2%, compared to a 0.6%<br />
fall the previous quarter.<br />
Britain is lagging behind other major economies including Germany,<br />
France, Japan, and the US which all returned to growth in<br />
the second quarter of 2009. Commentators suggest that the UK is<br />
suffering a longer recession than other large European countries,<br />
as a result of government policy dating back to the policies of the<br />
Thatcher government of 1979, in which UK governments have moved<br />
away from supporting manufacturing and focused on the financial<br />
sector. The OECD predicts that the UK will grow 1.6% in 2010.<br />
107 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
The unemployment rate recorded by the Labour Force Survey fell<br />
in the fourth quarter of 2009, the first of the big 3 economies in the<br />
EU to do so. On January 26, 2010, it was confirmed that the U.K.<br />
had left its recession, the last major economy in the world to do so.<br />
7.2 The market for outerwear.<br />
7.2.1 Market size<br />
The UK remained the second biggest clothing market in the EU<br />
behind Germany. UK consumers, along with Austrian citizens,<br />
belong to the biggest spenders per capita on clothing in the EU.<br />
While the import increased, the export market decreased in 2008,<br />
the local production stagnated. However, it seems very likely that<br />
the local production and employment will fall in the coming years<br />
and imports will continue to rise.<br />
The British clothing market has a volume of approximately €<br />
51 billion in 2009. Compared to 2008 the market shrunk by -2.8%.<br />
Table 68: Consumption of clothing in the United Kingdom ,<br />
2004 – 2009 [€ billion]<br />
2004 2006 2008 2009* CAGR 04-09<br />
Knitted outerwear 19.83 20.81 21.58 20.98 1.1%<br />
Woven outerwear 22.75 24.31 25.13 24.37 1.4%<br />
Total outerwear 42.58 45.12 46.71 45.35 1.3%<br />
Clothing others 5.64 5.5 5.79 5.68 0.1%<br />
Total clothing 48.22 50.62 52.5 51.03 1.1%<br />
Source: Eurostat and Euromonitor – Note: *forecast<br />
7.2.2 Market characteristics<br />
A large proportion of British consumers has become more price<br />
sensitive under the slogan: ‘Look good – pay less’. This attitude<br />
towards clothing consumption explains to a large extent the<br />
overwhelming success of the so called British ‘Value Retailers’.<br />
However, some consumers are also willing to buy higher priced<br />
and exclusive clothing.<br />
Most consumers with high income are normally in the age group<br />
between 50 and 60 and manufacturers offering highest quality<br />
garments meet a strong and ever growing market segment in the<br />
UK.
Good quality is also of increasing relevance to the younger consumers.<br />
This is underlined by the fact that clothing brands are of the<br />
same importance to the young as to elderly consumers, although<br />
the younger consumers often can not afford the branded items.<br />
Whenever their financial situation allows (often due to the wealth<br />
of their parents) the young like to buy brands (e.g. for jeans) and<br />
are eager to show their fashion awareness.<br />
7.2.3 Demographic characteristics<br />
The UK has a population of 61.0 million inhabitants with slight<br />
increases in population projected for the next 10 years. The age<br />
structure indicates the most suitable consumer groups to address<br />
for the respective product segment.<br />
Figure 10: Age structure of British population by gender, 2008<br />
Source: US Census Bureau, International Data Base<br />
10 0 +<br />
9 5 - 9 9<br />
9 0 - 9 4<br />
8 5 - 9 0<br />
8 0 - 8 5<br />
75 -79<br />
70 -74<br />
6 5 - 6 9<br />
6 0 - 6 4<br />
5 5 - 59<br />
50 - 5 4<br />
4 5 - 49<br />
4 0 - 4 4<br />
3 5 - 3 9<br />
3 0 - 3 4<br />
25 -29<br />
20 -24<br />
15 -19<br />
10 -14<br />
5 - 9<br />
0 - 4<br />
Population in millions<br />
Market developments in terms of shifts in the age groups can be<br />
predicted. These demographic forecasts may give hints on how to<br />
address the age group concerning design and marketing. Also, the<br />
kinds of clothing requested may change in the future regarding general<br />
demand, quality, suitability, comfort standards, basic designs<br />
and colours.<br />
The age groups between 35 and 39 have the highest shares in the<br />
British population today. But the older age groups of 45 to 49 also<br />
play a significant role. In future, the younger consumer segment<br />
will decrease more and more.<br />
Manufacturers from abroad should not neglect the increasing ‘age<br />
group’ of over 39 up to 59 years of age. More details about the<br />
shares and developments of the age groups concerned can be<br />
taken from the following figure.<br />
male female<br />
2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5<br />
7.2.4 Retail sales by product category<br />
The British market for outerwear shows that the turnover for<br />
women's wear is almost double level compared to men's wear.<br />
As indicated in the table below the retail sales of outerwear<br />
clothing in the UK amounted to a total of approximately € 51<br />
billion in 2009 with a CAGR of 1.3% from 2004 to 2009. The total<br />
clothing retail sales have risen with a CAGR of 1.1% from € 48<br />
billion in 2004 to € 51 billion in 2009.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 108
Table 69: Turnover of outerwear clothing by gender, 2004 and 2008<br />
109 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
2004 2006 2008 2009* CAGR 04-09<br />
Women‘s outerwear 22.61 24.14 24.89 24.19 1.4%<br />
Men’s outerwear 13.33 13.93 14.51 14.06 1.1%<br />
Children’s outerwear 6.64 7.05 7.31 7.10 1.3%<br />
Total outerwear 42.58 45.12 46.71 45.35 1.3%<br />
Total others 5.64 5.50 5.79 5.68 0.1%<br />
Total clothing 48.22 50.62 52.50 51.03 1.1%<br />
Source: Analysis based on Eurostat and Euromonitor – Note: *forecast<br />
7.2.5 Consumer behaviour<br />
7.2.5.1 Consumer preferences<br />
British women are fashion-conscious and stylish. This leads to an<br />
interest in and desire for new and innovative styles of clothing. The<br />
influence of media, especially magazines, TV and Internet, make<br />
consumers more conscious of the latest fashion trends and prices,<br />
so they are better informed to make a choice than before.<br />
Recent years have seen a trend towards purchasing casual wear<br />
for the office and leisurewear for home, and away from buying<br />
formal wear.<br />
The children’s clothing market is strongly shaped by adult fashion,<br />
with some styles being miniaturised versions of adult ranges. Meanwhile<br />
youth styles and fashions are opening up a new children’s<br />
niche, with its own characteristics and inspirations. Influences on<br />
children’s fashion from the sports world and the entertainment<br />
sector will continue, even from an increasingly young age.<br />
Although formal wear is more and more substituted by casual<br />
wear, as in other European countries, the UK is still the country<br />
with the highest market share of formal wear. As the table below<br />
shows, the share of formal clothing is at a comparatively high level<br />
of 39% for women and 38% for men. In this context, it should also<br />
be mentioned that in the segment of children‘s clothing, formal<br />
wear is also strong because of the use of school uniforms in Great<br />
Britain.<br />
Casual wear and basic leisurewear in particular have - compared<br />
to other European countries - lesser but increasing importance<br />
among British consumers.<br />
Table 70: Share of outerwear by gender and type, 2004 and 2008<br />
Women Men Children<br />
2004 2008 2004 2008 2004 2008<br />
Formal 40% 39% 39% 38% 19% 18%<br />
Casual 37% 38% 33% 34% 69% 70%<br />
Leisure 17% 18% 21% 21% -* -*<br />
Active sports 6% 5% 7% 7% 12% 12%<br />
Total 100% 100% 100% 100% 100% 100%<br />
Source: Analysis based on Eurostat and Euromonitor – Note: *Included in casual wear
7.2.5.2 Consumer expenditure<br />
The UK remained the second biggest clothing market in the EU<br />
behind Germany. UK consumers, along with Austrian citizens,<br />
belong to the biggest spenders per capita on clothing in the EU.<br />
The next table illustrates household expenditure by the age of the<br />
household reference person. The figures indicate that for men,<br />
expenditure on clothing rises with age, but seems to be quite constant<br />
especially for men between 30 and 64, and only falls again at<br />
a higher age. Expenditure for women‘s outerwear is not only higher<br />
in all age categories than for men, but also shows a different life<br />
Less than<br />
30<br />
30 – 49 50 – 64 65 – 74 75<br />
or over<br />
All households Expenditure share<br />
Women‘s outerwear 7.10 8.80 9.80 4.80 3.30 7.60 52.4%<br />
Men’s outerwear 6.20 5.60 5.10 2.60 1.10 4.50 31.0%<br />
Girls’ outerwear 0.50 1.80 0.60 0.40 0.10 1.00 6.9%<br />
Boys’ outerwear 0.40 1.50 0.40 0.20 0.10 0.80 5.6%<br />
Infants’ outerwear 1.10 1.00 0.40 0.30 0.10 0.60 4.1%<br />
Source: ONS<br />
Clothing and shoes<br />
per household<br />
cycle pattern. Between the age of 30 and 49, average weekly<br />
expenditure is £8.80, between 50 and 64, women’s expenditure<br />
shows nearly the same level at £9.80 weekly. Assuming that the<br />
age of the reference person of the household stands for the age of<br />
the female consumer, it means that 50 to 64 year old women is the<br />
age category with the highest expenditure on clothing. The reason<br />
for this could be sales of luxury items for wealthy clientèle in shops<br />
like Burberry‘s, Barbour and Pringle.<br />
Table 71: Weekly household expenditure by age of household<br />
reference person, 2008 [£]<br />
The next table clearly shows that total expenditure per household<br />
has increased with a CAGR of 2.8% over the last years. Expenditure<br />
on clothing and shoes only increased with a CAGR of 0.9%<br />
over the same period, thus decreasing the share of clothing and<br />
shoes expenditure per household.<br />
Table 72: Average yearly expenditure per household,<br />
2008 [£, 2.4 persons per household]<br />
2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009* CAGR<br />
04-09<br />
2’010 2’045 2’068 2’098 2’099 2’101 0.9%<br />
% of total 5.6% 5.6% 5.4% 5.3% 5.2% 5.1%<br />
Total 35’601 36’838 37’985 39’538 40’598 40’819 2.8%<br />
Source: Analysis based on ONS – Note: *estimation<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 110
7.2.6 Price development of clothing<br />
Clothing prices have been declining since the mid 90’s. The fierce<br />
competition on the UK clothing market has brought down prices<br />
year after year. In most outerwear sectors consumers buy more<br />
items, but the growth of the clothing market in value is lower due to<br />
price deflation.<br />
111 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
The following table clearly shows the drop of prices in the clothing<br />
and shoe segment. The CAGR for clothing and shoes is -5.6%<br />
from 2004 to 2009, while Housing, water and fuels and all other<br />
Table 73: Price indices for clothing and shoes, 2004-2009<br />
2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 CAGR 04-09<br />
Clothing and shoes 105.6 100.0 95.8 92.1 86.0 79.2 -5.6%<br />
Housing, water and fuels 94.1 100.0 109.2 114.7 124.5 129.9 6.7%<br />
All items 98.0 100.0 102.3 104.7 108.5 110.8 2.5%<br />
Source: ONS<br />
7.3 Imports.<br />
The UK is the second largest EU importer in terms of value. As<br />
a logical consequence, the ‘Overseas Trade Statistics’ show that<br />
imports for women's and men’s clothing continuously increased<br />
over the last few years. Although the import level of women's wear<br />
is higher than for men's wear, imports of men’s clothing seem to<br />
have grown stronger.<br />
Looking at the total figures in table 74 and table 75, the import<br />
share of women‘s clothing in total imports is higher than that for<br />
men mainly due to a generally higher consumption of women‘s<br />
clothing. Overall outerwear clothing imports (knitted and woven)<br />
have shrunk by -7.7% from 2006 to 2008. Extra EU imports shrunk<br />
by -0.4% in the same time period, thus increasing its share from<br />
69.8% in 2006 to 75.4% in 2008. This is also the main reason for<br />
the constant depreciation in clothing price over the last years.<br />
Table 74 illustrates the import developments of knitted outerwear<br />
from 2006 to 2008. Total import for knitted men's clothing outerwear<br />
decreased by -18.4% from 2006 to 2008. Extra EU imports<br />
also decreased by a double digit percentage (-12%). Category<br />
61.05 (shirts) had the largest loss with almost -22%.<br />
The imports of knitted outerwear for women or girls have also<br />
decreased from 2006 to 2008 by -1.8%. Extra EU imports increased<br />
by more than 14% in the same time period, thus increasing its<br />
import share from 65.9% in 2006 to 76.7% in 2008.<br />
The total import of knitted products decreased in terms of value<br />
from 2006 to 2008 by approx. -6%. The share of knitted outerwear<br />
imported from countries outside the EU is constantly increasing<br />
and almost reached 80% in 2008.
Table 74: Imports of knitted outerwear by gender and product<br />
categories, 2006-2008<br />
2006 2007 2008<br />
Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />
For men or boys<br />
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.01) 3’956 63’968 4’270 59’721 4’595 60’943<br />
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts etc.<br />
(61.03)<br />
15’893 238’259 15’952 214’657 16’564 197’543<br />
Shirts (61.05) 27’722 382’111 25’713 350’661 23’395 299’668<br />
Sub Total 47’570 684’338 45’935 625’039 44’553 558’154<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
For women or girls<br />
40’950 491’269 41’041 473’946 40’594 432’165<br />
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.02) 8’677 121’313 7’240 95’603 10’382 102’752<br />
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, dresses,<br />
skirts etc. (61.04)<br />
35’681 579’449 43’510 687’999 38’180 582’970<br />
Blouses and shirts (61.06) 12’129 236’128 22’757 266’213 14’586 234’193<br />
Sub Total 56’487 936’890 73’507 1’049’816 63’148 919’915<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
For both genders<br />
40’388 617’320 51’110 766’340 52’079 705’281<br />
T-shirts, singlets etc. (61.09) 144’336 2’065’244 144’790 2’055’105 133’838 1’737’809<br />
Jersey, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats,<br />
etc. (61.10)<br />
115’833 2’039’585 147’660 2’047’889 135’994 2’146’773<br />
Babies’ garments (61.11) 22’069 329’277 24’398 341’130 26’095 337’135<br />
Garments rubberised, impregnated, etc.<br />
(61.13)<br />
1’248 20’260 1’114 19’013 1’457 23’237<br />
Gloves, mittens and mitts (61.16) 13’294 98’842 12’256 89’997 12’232 85’941<br />
Other made-up clothing accessories<br />
(61.17)<br />
5’670 77’116 4’745 67’368 5’032 69’795<br />
Sub Total 302’450 4’630’324 334’961 4’620’503 314’648 4’400’691<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
Active Sportswear<br />
256’103 3’504’593 266’336 3’609’066 274’144 3’538’025<br />
Track suits, ski suits and swimwear (61.12) 7’074 176’175 8’333 184’808 7’378 150’937<br />
Special garments for professional sporting<br />
or other purposes (61.14)<br />
10’859 113’593 13’480 144’034 10’169 127’842<br />
Sub Total 17’933 289’768 21’813 328’842 17’547 278’779<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 11’881 212’889 17’232 254’978 15’330 220’458<br />
TOTAL 424’440 6’541’320 476’215 6’624’199 439’897 6’157’539<br />
TOTAL EXTRA EU 349’322 4’826’071 375’720 5’104’329 382’147 4’895’930<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 112
Table 75 shows the imports of woven outerwear into the UK. From<br />
2006 to 2008, total imports of women's woven outerwear decreased<br />
in value terms at a greater rate than the imports of men's<br />
outerwear. Imports of woven menswear decreased from € 2.7<br />
billion in 2006 to € 2.5 billion in 2008 and.<br />
The import volume of woven men's wear rose from 156 million<br />
tons in 2006 to 162 million tons in 2008. Import prices for woven<br />
menswear decreased significantly.<br />
Table 75: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product<br />
categories, 2006-2008<br />
2006 2007 2008<br />
Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />
For men or boys<br />
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc.<br />
(62.01)<br />
21’710 359’502 20’881 369’911 20’341 351’689<br />
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts,<br />
etc. (62.03)<br />
98’357 1’663’038 104’415 1’679’011 105’214 1’535’886<br />
Shirts (62.05) 36’581 652’979 37’456 649’441 36’527 590’494<br />
Sub Total 156’649 2’675’519 162’752 2’698’363 162’081 2’478’069<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
For women or girls<br />
130’266 1’728’995 141’878 1’786’288 143’674 1’749’527<br />
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc.<br />
(62.02)<br />
29’599 460’550 30’345 516’310 28’759 497’718<br />
Suits, jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers,<br />
etc. (62.04)<br />
157’177 3’054’677 169’674 3’075’113 147’044 2’586’331<br />
Blouses and shirts (62.06) 34’990 773’004 40’630 876’986 31’778 705’993<br />
Sub Total 221’766 4’288’231 240’649 4’468’409 207’580 3’790’043<br />
Sub Total Extra EU<br />
For both genders<br />
169’804 2’888’038 188’676 2’942’877 174’976 2’746’886<br />
Babies garments (62.09) 10’053 174’483 9’481 157’914 10’501 157’695<br />
Others incl. Impregnated (62.10) 18’505 252’097 21’972 265’327 21’478 274’375<br />
Shawls, scarves, mufflers, etc. (62.14) 5’093 94’237 4’808 91’366 6’909 102’397<br />
Ties, bow ties and cravats (62.15) 2’231 56’683 2’738 57’317 2’867 50’887<br />
Gloves, mittens and mitts (62.16) 2’605 23’959 2’196 22’767 1’886 22’723<br />
Other made-up clothing accessories<br />
(62.17)<br />
4’175 54’041 4’938 48’859 4’198 49’004<br />
Sub Total 42’660 655’501 46’132 643’550 47’840 657’081<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 34’421 459’816 38’522 456’032 39’444 473’126<br />
113 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Woven women's wear imports decreased from 2006 to 2008 by<br />
almost -12% and amounted to € 3.8 billion in 2008. Only the category<br />
62.02 (Coats, anoraks, etc.) increased by 8% in the same<br />
time period.<br />
Total imports of woven outerwear decreased by -9.3% from 2006<br />
to 2008. Extra EU imports decreased with a slower pace of only<br />
-2.1% in the same time period, thus increasing its market-share<br />
from 67% in 2006 to 72% in 2008.
2006 2007 2008<br />
Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €<br />
Active Sportswear<br />
Track suits, ski suits (62.11) 23’192 324’627 21’999 277’683 23’839 280’202<br />
Sub Total 23’192 324’627 21’999 277’683 23’839 280’202<br />
Sub Total Extra EU 18’928 212’850 18’451 194’032 20’870 209’111<br />
TOTAL 444’266 7’943’877 471’532 8’088’005 441’341 7’205’395<br />
TOTAL EXTRA EU 353’420 5’289’699 387’527 5’379’229 378’964 5’178’650<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
7.3.1 Outward Processing Trade (OPT)<br />
The United Kingdom does not have any kind of OPT activities<br />
according to Eurostat.<br />
7.3.2 Largest suppliers of outerwear<br />
According to Textil Forum, UK clothing production rose for the first<br />
time in many years in 2007. It grew by 3% during 2007 and stood<br />
at some € 5.4 billion. In 2008 employment in the clothing sector<br />
remained static at some 77’000. This was the first time that employment<br />
has not fallen, while in 2007 some 8’000 jobs were lost<br />
across the sector.<br />
However, it seems very likely that production and employment will<br />
fall in the coming years and imports will continue to rise. Several<br />
manufacturers of outerwear for men and/or women specialised<br />
themselves in corporate clothing, while other manufacturers shifted<br />
from manufacturing private labels to own branded business.<br />
Table 76: Largest extra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008<br />
Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from<br />
2006<br />
Table 76 gives a good survey on the performance of the 20 leading<br />
extra-EU clothing suppliers to the UK. The share of clothing<br />
imports from non-EU countries was 75.4% in 2008. In 2008, €<br />
13.4 billion of outerwear was imported to the UK: € 10.1 billion<br />
outerwear from extra-EU and € 3.3 billion from other EU member<br />
states. While the imports from extra-EU decreased by -0.4% from<br />
2006 to 2008, the imports from EU countries declined significantly<br />
by almost 25%.<br />
The three main import countries are China (€ 4.2 billion), Turkey (€<br />
1.2 billion), Bangladesh (€ 0.9 billion).<br />
Looking at the country shares in total import, China maintains the<br />
major part with 31.6% of total imports. Turkey also plays a significant<br />
role with € 1.2 billion and a share of 9.2%. These two countries<br />
alone represent more than a third of total clothing imports.<br />
2007 [‘000 €] Change from<br />
2007<br />
2008 [‘000 €]<br />
1 China 3’104’783 12% 3’491’706 21% 4’233’931<br />
2 Turkey 1’565’951 11% 1’733’457 -29% 1’232’455<br />
3 Bangladesh 934’737 -3% 910’784 -1% 898’775<br />
4 India 780’417 15% 896’957 -6% 840’286<br />
5 Sri Lanka 453’725 1% 458’826 5% 479’894<br />
6 Morocco 339’259 1% 344’258 -19% 280’435<br />
7 Hong Kong 716’548 -26% 532’757 -57% 231’168<br />
8 Vietnam 185’558 8% 200’830 11% 222’950<br />
9 Indonesia 316’589 -13% 274’873 -20% 221’071<br />
10 Pakistan 213’369 3% 219’739 -3% 212’762<br />
11 Mauritius 190’687 2% 195’140 -13% 169’267<br />
12 Egypt 131’667 5% 138’350 1% 139’087<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 114
Intra-EU imports have declined by -22% from 2006 to 2008. Only<br />
Spain had inverse trend and increased its exports to the UK by<br />
18.3% from 2006 to 2008. Italy, Germany and France are the three<br />
main intra-EU exporting countries to the UK.<br />
Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from<br />
2006<br />
115 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
2007 [‘000 €] Change from<br />
2007<br />
2008 [‘000 €]<br />
13 Thailand 132’405 -9% 120’539 2% 123’265<br />
14 Cambodia 121’053 0% 121’022 -2% 119’092<br />
15 USA 97’737 4% 101’545 -9% 92’643<br />
16 Tunisia 65’920 0% 66’035 2% 67’132<br />
17 Malaysia 56’163 -4% 53’829 -10% 48’438<br />
18 United Arab Emirates 66’271 -8% 60’791 -22% 47’625<br />
19 Lao 42’311 -25% 31’567 25% 39’485<br />
20 Philippines 61’171 -29% 43’560 -35% 28’346<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009<br />
Extra-EU 27 10’115’771 4% 10’483’559 -4% 10’074’580<br />
Intra-EU 27 4’369’427 -3% 4’228’645 -22% 3’288’354<br />
Total 14’485’198 2% 14’712’204 -9% 13’362’934<br />
Table 77: Largest intra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008<br />
Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from<br />
2006<br />
2007 [‘000 €] Change from<br />
2007<br />
2008 [‘000 €]<br />
1 Italy 738’108 7% 791’131 -13% 686’370<br />
2 Germany 508’640 -2% 500’066 -12% 438’308<br />
3 France 572’712 -9% 520’384 -20% 416’824<br />
4 Belgium 473’308 -19% 382’264 -12% 337’874<br />
5 Romania 567’390 24% 704’426 -57% 302’231<br />
6 Netherlands 276’771 -6% 260’715 3% 268’890<br />
7 Spain 186’792 11% 206’940 7% 220’953<br />
8 Portugal 296’902 -12% 260’454 -25% 194’574<br />
9 Ireland 125’169 -8% 114’760 -15% 97’092<br />
10 Denmark 72’452 8% 77’990 -9% 71’084<br />
Intra-EU 27 4’369’427 -3% 4’228’645 -22% 3’288’354<br />
Extra-EU 27 10’115’771 4% 10’483’559 -4% 10’074’580<br />
Total 14’485’198 2% 14’712’204 -9% 13’362’934<br />
Source: Eurostat 2009
7.4 Trade structure.<br />
7.4.1 Developments in the retail trade<br />
Following M&S survey, the clothing market faced a difficult year. In<br />
this highly competitive sector several factors are driving shopping<br />
trends on the High Street.<br />
Older customers, who are more cautious about spending, are<br />
increasingly buying on a ‘needs’ basis or replacing staples with<br />
investment pieces. They are looking for clothing that lasts beyond<br />
the current season, which can be dressed up or down and accessorised.<br />
Additionally, the economic climate has forced customers to<br />
consider carefully before buying, prompting retailers to introduce<br />
promotions and discounts to entice them in, especially during<br />
Christmas. This resulted in customers widening their store choice<br />
so they could cherry pick the best offers, and use deals to ‘trade<br />
up’ to better quality items for less money.<br />
Under-35 customers are more unpredictable in their approach to<br />
spending. While spending initially slowed at the start of 2008/09,<br />
they quickly returned to the impulse shopping that characterised<br />
their spending before the credit crunch. They tend to buy for the<br />
moment and gravitate to cheap fashion items – cutting back spending<br />
in other parts of their lives so they can afford to shop.<br />
The retailing structure for clothing in the UK is one most concentrated<br />
in the world. Clothing chains, value and discount retailers and<br />
variety stores are the main retail channels for outerwear clothing<br />
in the UK. The three largest players are Marks & Spencer (M&S),<br />
the Next Group and the Arcadia Group. The number and variety<br />
of retail channels which offer outerwear clothing has increased in<br />
recent years.<br />
The UK accounted for around 34'500 clothing outlets in 2008, of<br />
which the number of independent clothing retailers can be estimated<br />
at almost 10'000, operating through 13'000 outlets. Some<br />
independent sport shops in the UK have joined a buying group,<br />
of which the most important are Intersport (162 stores) and Sport<br />
2000 (183).<br />
The Arcadia Group, operates through over 2'800 clothing multiple<br />
stores in the UK (and 600 abroad), like Dorothy Perkins, Evans,<br />
Top Shop, Wallis, Miss Selfridge, Burton and Top Man. All chains<br />
include home service activities.<br />
Under the name Aurora Fashions, new name for Mosaic Fashions,<br />
four fashion brands (Karen Millan, Coast, Warehouse and Oasis)<br />
will continue its activities through 1'377 stores in 45 countries, as<br />
reported in March 2009.<br />
Major foreign players are Hennes & Mauritz (146 stores), Gap<br />
(136 stores), Zara (63 stores), Mango (20 stores) and Dunnes<br />
Stores (29 stores).<br />
The UK clothing retail sector makes a distinction between discount<br />
retailers, which sell branded clothing at below recommended prices,<br />
and value retailers, which sell own label clothes at low prices.<br />
Both types of retailers are likely to put even further downward<br />
pressure on pricing. The value players have performed strongly<br />
and this is expected to continue as the downturn takes hold.<br />
Primark is the largest of these players followed by TK Maxx (part<br />
of the USA based TJX Companies). Primark has plans for further<br />
expansion, has stores already trading in Spain and plans afoot for<br />
further expansion into The Netherlands, Portugal and Germany.<br />
TK Maxx Europe is also active in Ireland and Germany.<br />
The most important variety chain is Marks & Spencer (M&S)<br />
with 490 stores nationwide and selling clothing besides food and<br />
home ware. In addition, M&S has 166 stores worldwide, including<br />
franchise businesses, operating in 36 countries. M&S is the UK’s<br />
leading household and furnishing retailer, and an important retailer<br />
of foods, clothing and footwear. Another variety chain is Bhs<br />
(180 stores), active in adults’ wear, and even more important, in<br />
children’s wear also through the formula Tammy. The 818 Woolworth<br />
variety stores went into administration in November 2008<br />
and were closed in four stages throughout December 2008 and<br />
January 2009.<br />
The leading department store is Debenham (153 stores in the UK<br />
and Ireland, besides 48 franchised outlets in 17 countries abroad).<br />
Debenham is the UK’s third largest clothing retailer and the<br />
leading department store in selling clothing. Another department<br />
store is John Lewis Partnership (27 stores).<br />
Along with this development, the competition among the clothing<br />
suppliers from non-EU countries has also increased and demands<br />
with regard to service, reliability and keeping of high quality standards<br />
have to be fulfilled by companies that wish to remain on the<br />
supplier’s lists.<br />
A further strong development in the British retail trade - apart from<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 116
price orientation - is the emphasis on more service and attractive<br />
shop interiors. Consumers are not only prepared to invest in the<br />
product, but also accept higher prices for the distracting experience<br />
of shopping. Buying of clothing becomes a special and joyful<br />
‘event’ achieved through a variety of entertaining and extensive<br />
store environments.<br />
Clothing retail chain<br />
General<br />
Parent company Website Number of outlets<br />
Next Next PLC www.next.co.uk 502 (660)<br />
Monsoon Monsoon www.monsoon.co.uk 410 (849)<br />
New Look<br />
Women<br />
New Look www.newlook.co.uk 613 (885)<br />
Dorothy Perkins Arcadia Group www.dorothyperkins.co.uk 600<br />
Evans Arcadia Group www.evans.ltd.uk 330<br />
Wallis Arcadia Group www.walis-fashion.com 300 (425)<br />
Miss Selfridge Arcadia Group www.misssefridge.co.uk 141 (187)<br />
Topshop Arcadia Group www.topshop.co.uk 320<br />
Alexon Alexon Group www.alexon.co.uk 77<br />
Bay Trading<br />
Men<br />
Alexon Group www.alexon.co.uk 167<br />
Topman Arcadia Group www.topman.co.uk 178<br />
Burton<br />
Children & maternity<br />
Arcadia Group www.burton.co.uk 400<br />
Mothercare<br />
Outdoor / sports<br />
Mothercare www.mothercare.com 225 (553)<br />
JJB Sports JJB Sports www.jjb.co.uk 344<br />
Blacks Leisure Black Leisure Group www.blackleisure.co.uk 374<br />
JD Sports<br />
Value retailers<br />
John David Group www.jdsports.co.uk 402<br />
Matalan (family clothing etc.) www.matalan.co.uk 200<br />
Peacock (clothing, footwear etc.) www.peacocks.co.uk 460 (506)<br />
Primark (clothing, footwear etc.) www.primark.co.uk 181<br />
M6Co (former name Mackays; women’s and children’s wear) www.mackaystores.co.uk 297<br />
QS (general clothing) www.qsgroup.co.uk 170<br />
Bonmarché (women’s wear)<br />
Discount chains<br />
www.bonmarche.co.uk 371<br />
TK Maxx (fashion and giftware) www.tkmaxx.com 214 (231)<br />
The Officers Club (men’s wear) www.theofficersclub.co.uk 174<br />
Source: CBI - Note: Numbers in brackets including outlets abroad<br />
117 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
7.4.2 Leading retailers<br />
The following table gives a good survey of leading clothing shops/<br />
chains in the UK. Besides the clothing chains of the powerful ARCADIA<br />
Group, (sales volume £ 1.9 billion in 2008) there are other clothing<br />
multiples like NEXT with 502 outlets and a sales volume of €3.3 billion.<br />
Table 78: Major specialised clothing chains based in the UK, 2008
7.4.3 Distribution channels<br />
7.4.3.1 Retailers<br />
The following table gives an overview on the main clothing retail<br />
channels in the UK and the share of each channel.<br />
Table 79: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]<br />
2004 2006 2008<br />
Specialists 48 49 49<br />
Independent retailers 14 13 12<br />
Clothing multiples* 34 36 37<br />
Non-specialists 52 51 51<br />
Department/variety stores 15 15 16<br />
Home shopping companies 9 9 8<br />
Hyper- and supermarkets 6 7 7<br />
Sports stores 8 8 9<br />
Other 8 7 6<br />
Total 100 100 100<br />
Source: CBI and BTE – Note: *including discounters and value retailers<br />
7.4.3.1.1 Independent specialised retailers<br />
The market share of independent clothing retailers has been<br />
dropping slowly over the past three years (2004-2008). 12% of<br />
the clothing is sold through independent shops, which is rather<br />
low compared with the much higher percentages in France and<br />
Germany.<br />
The shrinking process of the smaller independent retailers has<br />
come to a standstill and the market has stabilized at a low level.<br />
More than 90% of independent retailers do not buy/import from<br />
overseas clothing suppliers but source abroad through their buying<br />
associations.<br />
Market share: 12% in 2008, Trend: decreasing<br />
7.4.3.1.2 Clothing multiples<br />
The structure of clothing retailing in the UK is one of the most<br />
concentrated in the world. The largest player in the market is the<br />
Arcadia Group, which operates with more than 2'500 clothing multiple<br />
stores and includes, as well as home service activities, the<br />
women’s chains Dorothy Perkins, Evans, Top Shop, Miss Selfridge,<br />
Wallis, Outfit the men's wear chains Burton and Top Man. The<br />
Arcadia Group buys separately for each of its companies and each<br />
product group and there are buyers responsible for each product<br />
segment.<br />
The Top Shop chain, offers the latest young fashion and have<br />
enlarged their services including ‘style consulting’, a VIP Service<br />
sending a selection of clothing items home and a special department<br />
for pregnant women with extra large changing rooms. Those<br />
luxury shops that have traditional brands such as BURBERRY‘ S,<br />
BARBOUR and PRINGLE play an important role for consumers<br />
over 45 who have the appropriate income to buy quality collections.<br />
Burberry has been successful in re-launching its traditional<br />
labels and combines higher quality with higher prices. Burberry‘s<br />
consumer-oriented and elaborate marketing led to a sales increase.<br />
Similar developments can be detected for the retailers Daks,<br />
Aquascutum, and Mulberry, who combined classic brands with<br />
current market trends.<br />
As in other European countries, the mid-market global fashion<br />
brands of the foreign companies H&M, ZARA and MANGO are<br />
strengthening their hold on the UK market. In the UK clothing retail<br />
sector a distinction is made between discount retailers, which sell<br />
branded clothing at below recommended prices and value retailers,<br />
which sell own label clothes at low prices.<br />
The market share of these retailers, in particular value retailers,<br />
increased strongly in the period under review and included outerwear.<br />
The secret of their success is the ability to provide the latest<br />
fashion trends to their customers.<br />
Market share: 37 % in 2008, Trend: increasing<br />
7.4.3.1.3 Department stores<br />
Among the clothing retailers, the department store MARKS &<br />
SPENCER (M&S) in particular suffered from fiercer competition<br />
and profits that turned into losses at the end of the nineties. However,<br />
with a total sales of around £ 0.9 billion in 2008, the restructuring<br />
efforts were successful. M&S has now reopened stores<br />
outside the UK but still concentrates on premium locations.<br />
The DEBENHAMS department stores had a sales turnover of £<br />
2.3 billion in 2009. Other major department stores are: JOHN LE-<br />
WIS, HOUSE OF FRASER, ALLDERS and SELFRIDGES in the<br />
market, but MARKS & SPENCER still keeps the no. 1 position.<br />
Market share: 16 % in 2008, Trend: Stable<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 118
7.4.3.1.4 Home shopping companies<br />
Over 40 companies are active in the home shopping sector (operations<br />
via direct-mail, catalogues, television and Internet) like:<br />
Grattan and Freemans; both companies are part of the German<br />
mail-order giant Otto Versand; Empire Stores is owned by the<br />
French PRP; Littlewoods. Most of the UK retail organisations<br />
operate also via Internet, mail-order and home shopping, of which<br />
Next Directory - is the most successful.<br />
Market share: 8% in 2008, Trend: Decreasing<br />
7.4.3.1.5 Hyper- and supermarkets<br />
Supermarkets tend to offer convenience and competitive prices.<br />
And because almost everyone needs to go grocery shopping,<br />
supermarkets have a large base of customers who regularly<br />
visit their stores. This has even resulted in some supermarkets<br />
attempting to lead and create fashion trends in clothing. According<br />
to Verdict, growth in sales of clothing at supermarkets will be<br />
driven by two factors.<br />
• Supermarkets will start to sell a greater range of higher priced<br />
clothing. This will help them attract a wider spread of consumers<br />
and allow them to take more business from specialist players<br />
• Supermarkets will achieve growth in sales of clothing via online<br />
shopping. Many grocers are already active in Internet sales and<br />
have a comprehensive delivery network in place.<br />
The two major retailers in the supermarket sector are ASDA (328<br />
stores selling clothing in the UK and part of American Wal-Mart;<br />
and Tesco (585 superstores but not all stores are selling clothing).<br />
They increasingly follow the trend of offering non-food products as<br />
do, for instance, the leading French hypermarkets. ASDA’s assortment<br />
includes its successful George clothing range, which is also<br />
sold by Wal-Mart. Another grocer chain is Sainsbury’s (selling its<br />
TU clothing collection in 300 of the in total more than 800 stores).<br />
The German discounters Lidl (450 stores) and Aldi (360) and,<br />
Makro Cash & Carry (33 stores) are also active in the UK.<br />
Market share: 7% in 2008, Trend: Increasing<br />
119 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
7.4.3.2 Sales intermediaries<br />
7.4.3.2.1 Clothing manufacturers<br />
In addition to retailers and wholesalers that import clothing to<br />
the UK, in some cases UK manufacturers partly outsource their<br />
production activities to manufacturers abroad. Due to the strong<br />
increase of production costs in the UK, clothing manufacturers<br />
(mainly brands) have started outsourcing to Eastern Europe and<br />
Northern Africa. Many products (e.g. most of the knitted outerwear)<br />
are bought from Asia and Turkey.<br />
British clothing ‘manufacturers’ have turned in being more<br />
management and marketing units than producers. They mainly<br />
concentrate on the design and fashion as well as on marketing<br />
and sales.<br />
The brands sell their products to selected distribution channels<br />
that correspond with their marketing strategy. In any case, practically<br />
all British clothing brands source products abroad in one<br />
way or another and offer various sales opportunities for clothing<br />
manufacturers from abroad.<br />
7.4.3.2.2 Central buying associations<br />
Co-ordinated buying through central buying associations is a way<br />
for smaller UK retailers to gain more purchasing power. Since the<br />
clothing market in the UK is highly concentrated, with only a few<br />
big players who mainly buy directly from clothing manufacturers<br />
and there is little market share for small independent shops, the<br />
importance of central buying associations in the UK is still low.<br />
In Great Britain, importers/wholesalers have often taken over the<br />
‘buying function’ for smaller retailers, as the latter do not have the<br />
know-how and the means to import goods on their own.<br />
7.4.3.2.3 Sales agents<br />
There are different methods of indirect distribution from abroad<br />
to the various clothing retailers in the UK. One option is that local<br />
‘agents’ identify the clothing suppliers abroad, but the UK retailer<br />
is still the one who negotiates with their in-house buying team and<br />
organises all the logistics including shipping etc. Most often British<br />
retailers use several forms of indirect contacts.
Roughly speaking, half of these agents or wholesalers are located<br />
in the UK and half are located outside the UK. Agents are used by<br />
retailers to identify appropriate suppliers, to outsource the complete<br />
handling and control including communication with the supplier,<br />
the safeguarding of quality standards (especially for women's<br />
wear), the complete logistics including the import procedures, the<br />
production abroad according to ecological and social standards<br />
(code of conduct) etc.<br />
A further option for the clothing manufacturer from abroad is<br />
selling through regional agents in the UK. The condition is whether<br />
the manufacturer has a clear marketing strategy with a market<br />
oriented collection for the British market. The basis is a detailed<br />
‘<strong>Business</strong> Plan’. The manufacturer from abroad should consider<br />
that the area of ‘Greater London’ is highly competitive and it might<br />
be more advantageous to start the market entry in areas like Manchester,<br />
the North West or even Ireland.<br />
7.4.3.2.4 Importers / wholesalers<br />
For most suppliers to the UK market, indirect selling is the first way<br />
to go. UK wholesalers are infrequently mentioned, rarely visible,<br />
and searching for them on the Internet proves to be very difficult.<br />
Market research has shown that clothing wholesalers do not play<br />
an important role in the UK. Some British retailers do buy with<br />
the help of intermediary companies, and these wholesalers might<br />
even be outside the UK.<br />
The principles and possibilities of indirect selling to the UK might<br />
be illustrated as follows: If the manufacturer’s clothing is sold for<br />
instance at the shops of Marks & Spencer in the UK, the import<br />
may be done through a company somewhere in Europe and not<br />
necessarily in the UK. This can be confusing for clothing manufacturers<br />
from abroad when trying to get in contact with a buyer who<br />
only buys ‘within Europe’.<br />
Nevertheless, selling clothing to the UK also means working, in<br />
general, with manufacturers in Europe that export to the British<br />
market. Selling to wholesalers can be more profitable, because<br />
desperately trying to sell directly to the retailers may not work and<br />
might result in no orders at all, as many British retailers ‘source’<br />
through those wholesale and import units.<br />
The main function of wholesalers cannot be described merely as<br />
‘buying and selling and gaining a high margin’. The wholesalers<br />
also know most of the details about the retailer’s needs. Other<br />
tasks and functions of the wholesaler within the sourcing process<br />
include the know-how about the standards of the designs and as<br />
well as knowledge of the technical aspects of the products to be<br />
produced.<br />
The British wholesaler normally also advises the manufacturer to<br />
put the appropriate label on the product, as the concept of own<br />
‘Retail Brands’ has become of crucial importance to the retailers<br />
in the UK offering them more independence from the clothing<br />
manufacturers and running an own brand concept with better<br />
margins. The British wholesaler normally is fully involved in these<br />
processes to guarantee the ‘right product at the right time in the<br />
right place’.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 120
7.5 UK fashion trade fairs.<br />
The UK has achieved a better image for clothing design in the last<br />
few years and is competing with France and Italy. With London as<br />
a major fashion centre in Europe, the United Kingdom has gained<br />
more importance as a ‘Fashion Country’.<br />
In addition, a great deal of support from the British government<br />
has been an encouraging factor. ‘London Design’ is said to have<br />
a very modern or even avant-garde style and influences the<br />
European fashion scene to a certain extent. As a consequence<br />
of the appreciation of British clothing and design, trade fairs have<br />
increased in recent years. According to market experts, London<br />
offers the major clothing fairs in UK. Still today, it is highly recommended<br />
to check exact dates and venues of the smaller British<br />
fairs beforehand, as the ‘fair scene’ keeps on changing its names<br />
and locations.<br />
The main trade fair for clothing in the UK is the London Fashion<br />
Week. Two more fairs take place parallel to the London Fashion<br />
Week: Pure and Margin London. All these fairs take place twice a<br />
year (February and August).<br />
Table 80: UK fashion trade fairs 2010<br />
Trade fair Date <strong>Location</strong><br />
London Fashion Week 19. - 24.02.2010 London<br />
London Fashion Week August London<br />
Pure 01. - 03.08.2010 London<br />
Premier Kids 07. - 11.02.2010 Birmingham<br />
Moda UK 08. - 10.08.2010 Birmingham<br />
Margin London 01. - 02.08.2010 London<br />
Clothes Show Life 03. - 08.12.2010 Birmingham<br />
Printwear & Promotion Live 28. - 02.03.2010 Birmingham<br />
The London Design Festival 18. - 26.09.2010 London<br />
Source: Auma<br />
121 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
An exception is the Premier Kids in Birmingham, which has found<br />
its niche in the children's wear segment.<br />
In any case, brief research about the importance and the concept<br />
of the fair to be attended is essential. The following table gives<br />
a brief overview on the major British clothing fairs with names,<br />
venues and dates.
7.6 List of major buyers in UK.<br />
Clothing chain stores:<br />
Arcadia Group Ltd.<br />
Colegrave House<br />
70 Berners Street<br />
GB - London W1T 3NL<br />
Tel.: +44 – 0844 243 0000<br />
www.arcadiagroup.co.uk<br />
customer.service@arcadiagroup.co.uk<br />
TOP MAN<br />
Colegrave House<br />
70 Berners Street<br />
GB - London W1T 3NL<br />
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 636 8040<br />
European Customers:<br />
+44 844 984 0264<br />
customer.service@topman.com<br />
www.topman.co.uk<br />
TOP SHOP<br />
Colegrave House<br />
70 Berners Street<br />
GB - London W1T 3NL<br />
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 636 8040<br />
Fax: +44 – 207 – 927 2434<br />
www.topshop.co.uk<br />
customer.service@<br />
TOPSHOP.COM<br />
Wallis Fashion Group Ltd.<br />
Colegrave House<br />
70 Berners Street<br />
GB - London W1T 3NL<br />
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 636 8040<br />
customer.service@wallis.co.uk<br />
www.wallis-fashion.com<br />
WEW Group PLC<br />
296 Springfield Road<br />
GB - Glasgow G40 3HZ<br />
Tel.: +44 – 141 – 5567111<br />
Fax: +44 – 141 – 5567262<br />
Product range: Ladies,<br />
men’s, childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: 2500 +<br />
420 international franchise<br />
stores+ mail order business<br />
Note: Arcadia Group is<br />
privately owned by Taveta<br />
Investments Ltd, the investment<br />
vehicle owned by Sir<br />
Philip Green and his family<br />
Product range: Menswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid-level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
167 + mail order service<br />
Note: belongs to ARCA-<br />
DIA Group<br />
Product range: Womenswear<br />
(young fashion)<br />
Price segment: Mid-level<br />
Number of outlets:<br />
288 + mail order service<br />
Note: belongs to ARCA-<br />
DIA Group<br />
Product range:<br />
Womenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: 289 +<br />
mail order service<br />
Note: belongs to ARCA-<br />
DIA Group<br />
Product range: Ladies,<br />
men’s, childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: 40<br />
Bhs International<br />
Euston House<br />
132 Hampstead Road<br />
GB - London NW1 2PS<br />
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 2623288<br />
international@bhs.co.uk<br />
www.bhs.co.uk<br />
Bon Marché Ltd.<br />
Jubilee Way<br />
Grange Moor<br />
GB - Wakefield WF4 4SJ<br />
Tel.: +44(0)1924 700100<br />
Fax: +44(0)1924 700249<br />
info@bonmarche.co.uk<br />
www.bonmarche.co.uk<br />
Greenwoods Ltd.<br />
Greenwood House<br />
Albion Road, Greengates<br />
GB - Bradford BD10 9TQ<br />
Tel.: +44 – 127 – 4659650<br />
Fax: +44 – 127 – 4659692<br />
info@gwmw.com<br />
www.gwmw.com<br />
H&M Hennes Ltd.<br />
2nd Floor, Holden House<br />
57 Rathbone Place<br />
GB - London W1T 1HE<br />
Tel.: +44 – 020 – 7323 2211<br />
www.hm.com<br />
Matalan Retail Ltd.<br />
Gillibrands Road<br />
Skelmersdale<br />
GB - WN8 9TB, West Lancashire<br />
Tel.: +44 – 169 – 5552400<br />
www.matalan.co.uk<br />
Product range: Ladies,<br />
men’s, childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: over<br />
100 in the UK<br />
Product range:<br />
Womenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower level<br />
Number of outlets: 350<br />
(370 at the<br />
end 2005)<br />
Note: belongs to Peacock<br />
Group<br />
Product range: Menswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Upper level<br />
Number of outlets: 150<br />
Product range: Ladies,<br />
men’s, childrenswear<br />
Price segment: lower level<br />
Number of outlets: 96<br />
(expanding)<br />
Product range: Ladies,<br />
men’s, childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
mid to upper level<br />
Number of outlets: 190<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 122
MANGO (head office in Spain)<br />
Mercaders 9-11<br />
P.I. Riera de Caldes<br />
Apartado de Correos 280<br />
E - 08184 Palau-solità i<br />
Plegamans (Barcelona)<br />
Tel.: +34 – 93 860 24 24<br />
Fax:+34 – 93 860 22 07<br />
www.mango.es<br />
QS Familywear PLC<br />
Harbour House<br />
121 Gardener Road, Portslade<br />
GB - Brighton BN1 IQS<br />
Tel.: +44 – 1273 – 874444<br />
Fax: +44 – 1273 – 874433<br />
qsplc@co.uk<br />
www.qsgroup.co.uk<br />
River Island Clothing Co.<br />
Ltd.<br />
Chelsea House, West Gate<br />
GB - London W5 1DR<br />
Tel.: +44 – 208 – 9914500<br />
Fax: +44 – 208 – 9914500<br />
www.riverisland.com<br />
Zara<br />
48, Warwick Street<br />
GB - London, W1B 5 FE<br />
Tel.: +44 20 7851 43 00<br />
Fax: +44 20 7851 43 01<br />
www.zara.com<br />
Department stores:<br />
Debenhams Retail Plc.<br />
1 Welbeck Street<br />
GB - London W1G GAA<br />
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 408 4444<br />
Fax: +44 – 207 – 408 3366<br />
www.debenhams.com<br />
123 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Product range: Ladies,<br />
men’s, childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower level (value for<br />
money)<br />
Number of outlets: 180<br />
Product range: Ladies,<br />
men’s, childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower level (value for<br />
money)<br />
Number of outlets: 180<br />
Product range: Ladies’ and<br />
menswear<br />
Price segment: Mid to<br />
upper level<br />
Number of outlets: 200<br />
Product range: Ladies,<br />
men’s, childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: 42<br />
(Remark: Buying via<br />
Spain)<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: 117<br />
House of Fraser PLC<br />
1 Howick Place<br />
GB - London SW1P 1BH<br />
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 963 2000<br />
Fax: +44 – 207 – 821 5348<br />
www.houseoffraser.co.uk<br />
John Lewis Partnership Ltd.<br />
John Lewis Department<br />
Stores<br />
171 Victoria Street<br />
GB - London SW1E 5NN<br />
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 828 1000�<br />
Fax: +44 – 207 – 592 6333<br />
www.johnlewis.co.uk<br />
www.johnlewispartnership.co.uk<br />
Liberty PLC<br />
Regent Street<br />
GB - London W1B 5AH<br />
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 734 1234<br />
Fax: +44 – 020 – 7573 9898<br />
www.liberty.co.uk<br />
Marks + Spencer Group PLC<br />
Waterside House<br />
35 North Wharf Road<br />
GB - London W21 NW<br />
Tel.: +44 – 020 7935 4422<br />
www.marksandspencer.com<br />
retailcustomer.services@<br />
marksandspencer.com<br />
Next plc.<br />
Company secretary: Mr A J R<br />
McKinlay<br />
Desford Road<br />
GB - Enderby Leicester LE19<br />
4AT<br />
Tel.: +44 – 0 - 844 844 88 88<br />
Fax: +44 – 116 – 284 8998<br />
www.next.co.uk<br />
Woolworths PLC<br />
1st Floor, Skyways House,<br />
Speke Road, GB - Speke,<br />
Liverpool L70 1AB<br />
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 262 1222<br />
Fax: +44 – 207 – 706 5416<br />
www.woolworths.co.uk<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’ and menswear<br />
Price segment: Upper<br />
level (brand orientation)<br />
Number of outlets: 51<br />
(under 16 names)<br />
Product range:<br />
Sports and Leisurewear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: 27<br />
stores + 169 supermarkets<br />
Product range: Ladies’,<br />
men’s and childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: 120 +<br />
166 catalogue shops<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: 375<br />
stores + over<br />
130 franchising partners<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price segment: Mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: 400<br />
stores + 43 franchising<br />
partners + home shopping<br />
Product range:<br />
Childrenswear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: 806
Manufacturers/Importer and Wholesalers/Importers:<br />
J. Brownleader Ltd.<br />
49c Oxford Road<br />
GB - London W5 3SR<br />
Tel: +44 – 207 – 354 2468<br />
Fax: +44 – 207 – 354 2593<br />
Liam David Ltd.<br />
Coburg House 35 Sefton<br />
Street<br />
GB - Liverpool L8 5SL,<br />
Merseyside<br />
Tel.: +44 – 151 – 706 – 0060<br />
Fax: +44 – 151 – 706 –<br />
0661<br />
www.ldl.uk.com<br />
Westbridge International<br />
Group Ltd.<br />
Westbridge House<br />
Holland Street, Hyson<br />
Green<br />
GB - Nottingham NG7 5DS<br />
Tel.: +44 – 115 – 978 2254<br />
Fax: +44 – 115 942 0547<br />
www.wbig.co.uk<br />
County Coats<br />
61-75 Alie Street<br />
GB - London E1 8EL<br />
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 709 9682<br />
Fax: +44 – 207 – 702 2870<br />
Propeller UK Ltd.<br />
A.M.C. House<br />
1a Lower Park<br />
GB - London W3 6XA<br />
Tel.: +44 – 208 – 896 8700<br />
Mail Order Companies:<br />
Redcats (Brands) Ltd.<br />
(formerly Empire Stores Ltd.)<br />
18, Canal Road<br />
GB - Bradford B99 4XB – W.<br />
Yorkshire<br />
Tel.: +44 – 1274 – 72 9544<br />
Fax: +44 – 1274 – 76 3816<br />
www.empirestores.co.uk<br />
Freemans PLC<br />
Amberley Street<br />
GB – Sheffield S9 2 FS<br />
www.freemans.com<br />
Great Universal Stores PLC<br />
(GUS)<br />
Universal House<br />
251-256 Tottenham Court<br />
Road<br />
GB - London W1A 1BZ<br />
Tel.: +44 71 636 4080<br />
Fax: +44 71 631 3641<br />
info@gusplc.com<br />
www.gusplc.com<br />
Grattan PLC<br />
P.O. B ox 3856<br />
GB – Sheffield S96 5WD<br />
www.grattan.co.uk<br />
JD Williams + Co. Ltd.<br />
Griffin House<br />
40 Lever Street<br />
GB - Manchester M60 6ES<br />
Tel.: +44 – 870 – 160 61 00<br />
www.jdwilliams.co.uk<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price level: Lower level<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price level: Lower to midlevel<br />
(value for money)<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price level:<br />
from Lower to upper<br />
level<br />
Note: 12 different mailorder<br />
lines<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price level:<br />
Lower to mid-level<br />
Product range:<br />
Ladies’, men’s and<br />
childrenswear<br />
Price level:<br />
Mid to lower level<br />
Note: No. 1 in UK with 20<br />
catalogue brands<br />
Note: part of N. Brown<br />
Group PLC<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 124
Jeans and Young Fashion Chain:<br />
Alexon A Division of Alexon<br />
Int. Ltd.<br />
Pitfield<br />
Kiln Farm<br />
GB – Milton Keynes MK 11<br />
3LW<br />
help@alexon.co.uk<br />
www.alexon.co.uk<br />
Blacks Leisure Group PLC<br />
440-450 Cob Drive<br />
Swan Valley<br />
GB – Northampton NN4 9BB<br />
Tel.: +44 (0) 1604 597 000<br />
Fax +44 (0) 1604 597 171<br />
www.blacks.co.uk<br />
Cromwells Madhouse plc.<br />
Fulton Road, Unit 3, Palace of<br />
Industry<br />
GB - Wembley HA9 OTL –<br />
Middlesex<br />
Tel.: +44 – 181 – 903 5888<br />
Fax: +44 – 181 – 903 0303<br />
www.madhouse.co.uk<br />
Gilesports plc<br />
Fortran Road, St. Mellons<br />
GB - Cardiff CF3 OLT<br />
Tel.: +44 – 1222 – 77 44 00<br />
Fax: +44 – 1222 – 77 44 01<br />
www.gilesports.com<br />
Paco Life in Colour<br />
Unit K3/Waterside Shopping<br />
Centre<br />
High Street<br />
Lincoln, LN2 1AP<br />
Tel.: +44 01 522 568637<br />
www.dancingdress.co.uk<br />
125 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Product range:<br />
Sportswear (outdoor)<br />
Price segment: Mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: 125<br />
Note: belongs to Blacks<br />
Leisure Group plc.<br />
Product range:<br />
Sportswear (outdoor)<br />
Price segment: Mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: 125.<br />
Product range: Ladies’ and<br />
men’s jeans wear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Lower to mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: 55<br />
Price segment: Upper<br />
level (mainlybrands)<br />
Number of outlets: 50<br />
Product range:<br />
Sportswear<br />
Price segment: Mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: 50<br />
JJB Sports PLC (formerly<br />
Sports Division)<br />
Martland Park, Challenge Way<br />
GB - Wigan WN5 0LD, Lancashire<br />
Tel.: +44 – 194 – 2 2101 20<br />
Fax: +44 – 194 – 2 210 124<br />
www.jjbsports.com<br />
French Connection Group<br />
plc<br />
Head Office<br />
3 Hancock Road<br />
Bromley-by-Bow<br />
GB - London, E3 3DA<br />
Tel.: +44 – 20 7036 7000<br />
Fax: +44 – 20 7036 7001<br />
www.frenchconnection.com<br />
Buying Associations:<br />
Co-operative Wholesale<br />
(CWS) Ltd.<br />
New Century House –<br />
P.O.B. 53<br />
GB - Manchester M60 4ES<br />
Tel.: +44 – 161 – 834 1212<br />
Fax: +44 – 161 – 834 4507<br />
www.Co-op.co.uk<br />
Product range:<br />
Sportswear<br />
Price segment: Mid-level<br />
Number of outlets: 82<br />
Product range: Stylish<br />
sports and casual wear<br />
Price segment:<br />
Mid to upper level<br />
Number of outlets: 430<br />
Note: Largest British retailer<br />
for sportswear<br />
INTERSPORT UK<br />
Shirley Solihull<br />
GB - B90 4LF West Midlands<br />
Tel.: +44 - 121 - 683 1449<br />
Fax: +44 - 121 - 683 1467<br />
www.intersport.co.uk<br />
contact@intersport.co.uk
8. Doing business in <strong>Switzerland</strong> and the EU.<br />
8.1 Market access.<br />
8.1.1 Quality and standards in <strong>Switzerland</strong> and the EU<br />
The application of the European Norms (EN) in the 27 EU and the<br />
4 EFTA countries (including <strong>Switzerland</strong>) is the basis of a liberal<br />
intra-European trade and is valid in all 31 countries (more details:<br />
www.cenorm.be).<br />
However, there are no general EU or Swiss standards for<br />
garments. The rule is that importers in EU countries as well as<br />
in <strong>Switzerland</strong> generally fulfil the minimum quality requirements<br />
regarding material and making. The technical committee of the European<br />
Apparel and Textile Confederation (Euratex) has published<br />
an example of recommendations for manufacturers of knitted and<br />
woven clothing. Within these recommendations the Euratex, where<br />
<strong>Switzerland</strong> and many of the EU 27 countries hold a membership<br />
makes a difference between:<br />
• Recommendations concerning the characteristics of product<br />
which could be detected by an experienced person without aid<br />
of instruments in general use. A fault is located if the irregularity<br />
is evident in the fabrics as it was delivered or in the final product<br />
• Recommendations concerning the characteristics of fabrics,<br />
which could be only recovered with the help of appropriate<br />
equipment. Description of each characteristic includes definition,<br />
testing method, minimum quality standards and (if necessary)<br />
possible allowable tolerances compared with measurements of<br />
the sample.<br />
Testing methods for clothing are usually based on the ISO<br />
standards (www.iso.ch) or they can also suit the requirements of<br />
European norms (EN) or national standards of the EU member<br />
states (such as DIN, SIS, BS). ISO is made up of its members.<br />
A member body of ISO is the national body ‘most representative<br />
of standardization in its country’. Only one such body for each<br />
country is accepted for membership of ISO. Member bodies are<br />
entitled to participate and exercise full voting rights on any technical<br />
committee and policy committee of ISO. The member body of<br />
ISO in <strong>Switzerland</strong> is Swiss Association for Standardization (SNV)<br />
(more details can be taken from www.snv.ch). ISO norms are also<br />
applied in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. The major standards for quality and grading<br />
standards in the EU and <strong>Switzerland</strong> are the following:<br />
• for care labelling - ISO 3758<br />
• for dimensional stability – DIN 53894 (steaming), DIN 54311<br />
(fusing), ISO 3759/5077/6330 (washing/tumbling), ISO 3175 (dry<br />
cleaning)<br />
• for physical properties – ISO 5081 (tensile strength strip), ISO<br />
5082 (tensile strength grab), ISO 9290 (tear strength), BS 3320<br />
(seam slippage), EN 22313 (abrasion resistance), ISO 9876<br />
(crease tendency/recovery), BS 5811 (pilling tendency), SIS<br />
650047 (fibre penetration), EN 24920 (spray test) etc.<br />
• for colour-fastness to washing, light, water and other external<br />
influences - ISO 105<br />
Although the EU attempts to activate free trade based on the<br />
harmonization of product requirements, each EU member state<br />
and <strong>Switzerland</strong> has its own national market for apparel with its respective<br />
requirements concerning quality, type of clothing, colour,<br />
fabric, size etc.<br />
Swiss norms are progressively disappearing due to the appearance<br />
of international norms. Following requirements inherent to<br />
globalisation, Swiss industry has changed over to international<br />
standards over the last twenty years. In order to counteract possible<br />
discrimination against the Swiss clothing industry because<br />
of the country’s non-membership in the EU, <strong>Switzerland</strong> has<br />
accepted various EU-norms and references within the framework<br />
of national legislation.<br />
8.1.2 Packaging, size marking and labelling<br />
Packaging<br />
Care must be given to the packaging of products if one intends<br />
to export to EU countries and <strong>Switzerland</strong>. Packaging must be<br />
travel-steady, it must protect the product against environmental<br />
influences, theft, rough handling etc.<br />
As well as these basic demands, some importers may have specific<br />
demands concerning packaging, such as printing information<br />
about the order on the boxes (order number, quantity, product<br />
number, product description etc.). Some materials like PVC are<br />
less popular or even forbidden in some countries because of environmental<br />
issues, and exporters should discuss this matter with<br />
potential clients and include the cost of the special price in their<br />
wholesale price, if required.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 126
The EU has issued a directive on packaging and packaging waste<br />
(94/62/EC) that is applicable, to a large extent, to <strong>Switzerland</strong> as<br />
well. Among other measures, the Directive sets maximum levels of<br />
concentrations of heavy metals in packaging and describes requirements<br />
specific to manufacturing and composition of packaging.<br />
The Directive needs to be transposed to the national legislation of<br />
the member states.<br />
The dispose of waste is increasingly difficult and expensive in<br />
Europe. In principle, the importer is held responsible for disposal<br />
of the packaging waste for all goods from outside the EU. It is<br />
therefore crucial, when planning exports to the EU, to take the packaging<br />
of your products (both sales packaging and transport packaging)<br />
into consideration. To fulfil the requirements of the target<br />
market, clear communication with the importer about packaging is<br />
highly recommended.<br />
Table 81: Size table for women's outerwear<br />
Character sizes XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL<br />
Figure size 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48<br />
Chest width 78-81 82-85 86-89 90-93 94-97 98-102 103-107 108-113<br />
Waist size 62-65 66-69 70-73 74-77 78-81 82-85 86-89 90-94<br />
Hip girth 89-91 92-95 96-98 99-101 102-104 105-108 109-112 113-116<br />
Table 82: Size table for men's outerwear except trousers and jeans<br />
Character sizes XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL<br />
Figure size 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58<br />
Chest width 86-89 90-93 94-97 98-101 102-105 106-109 110-113 114-117<br />
Waist size 74-77 78-81 82-85 86-89 90-94 95-99 100-104 105-109<br />
Hip girth 89-92 93-96 97-100 101-104 105-108 109-112 113-116 117-120<br />
Table 83: Size table for men's trousers [cm]<br />
Character sizes XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL<br />
Figure sizes 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58<br />
Waistband width 77 81 85 89 93 97 103 109<br />
Side length 77 79 81 83 85 86 87 87<br />
127 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Most of the previous systems, such as the German packaging<br />
waste programme the ‘Green Dot’ - where trade and industry<br />
in Germany and other EU countries were obliged to take back<br />
packaging materials - have lost importance over the last years,<br />
mainly because of misuse of the green dot which appeared almost<br />
on every imported packaging without an obligation to take back<br />
the packaging.<br />
New legislation about wood packaging has recently been introduced.<br />
More detailed information about packaging techniques and<br />
the use of packaging materials can be found on the website of ITC<br />
(http://www.intracen.org).<br />
Size<br />
The following body measurements are used: body length, chest<br />
size and hip size. These three basic measurements determine the<br />
fitting of the garments. The following sizes are similar in Germany,<br />
the Netherlands and Austria.
The EN 13402 is a voluntary European Standard aimed at making<br />
the buying of clothes simpler for the customer throughout Europe.<br />
At the moment, a woman with a bust of about 88cm, a waist of<br />
about 72cm and hips of about 96cm, takes a dress size:<br />
• 12 in the UK<br />
• C38in Norway, Sweden and Finland<br />
• 40 in Belgium and France<br />
• 38 in Germany and the Netherlands<br />
• 44 in Italy<br />
• 44/46 in Portugal and Spain.<br />
• (10 in the USA)<br />
EN 13402 suggests a new measurement system which would remove<br />
this confusion. It takes different dimensions such as height,<br />
bust, and waist, and displays these measurements in 4cm and<br />
8cm intervals.<br />
For example, a woman with a waist of 71cm, hips of 96cm and<br />
a height of 172cm, would look for a skirt displaying the following<br />
measurements on the label: waist 70-74cm, hips 94-98 cm, height<br />
170-174cm. The standard also suggests a language-neutral<br />
pictogram, on which these dimensions can be indicated, to enable<br />
easier purchasing abroad.<br />
Jeans sizes<br />
Jeans are sold internationally in inch sizes. They are read as<br />
follows: The first number refers to the girth of the waist and the<br />
second to the inside leg seam (inseam). Both are expressed in<br />
inches.<br />
Germany has a specific system for the men’s sizes, which are<br />
subdivided into three groups:<br />
• Standard sizes: 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62<br />
• Large sizes (shorter than standard sizes and wider at the hip):<br />
24 25 26<br />
• Slim sizes (longer than standard sizes and narrower): 84 86 88<br />
90 94 98 102 106<br />
Table 84: Size marking for babies' and children's wear<br />
Years Groups<br />
0-2 Babies<br />
2-6 Toddlers<br />
6-12 Middle group / school<br />
12-14 Pre-teens<br />
14-16 Teenagers<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 128
Infants’ Wear (body sizes)<br />
For the purposes of sizing all children are best grouped into<br />
infants (younger than seven years), boys and girls. The Swedish<br />
‘Centilong’ system based on height values is used in some European<br />
countries. There is one standard for all these sizes.<br />
Table 85: Body sizes infants [cm]<br />
Body sizes infants<br />
Height 50 56 62 68 74 80 86 92 98 104<br />
Chest 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 55 56<br />
Waist 40 42 44 46 48 49 50 51 52 53<br />
Hips 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57 59<br />
Arm length 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32.3 34.6 36.9<br />
Inside leg length 16 19 22 25 28 31 34 37 40.6 44.2<br />
Table 86: Boys' wear [cm]<br />
129 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Boys' wear<br />
Height 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 176 182 188 194<br />
Chetst 58 59 60 62 64 67 70 73 77 81 85 88 91 94 97<br />
Waist 54 55 56 57 59 61 63 65 68 71 74 77 80 83 86<br />
Hips 59 61 63 65 68 71 74 77 81 85 89 93 95 98 101<br />
Arm length 39.1 41.4 43.7 46 48.3 50.6 52.5 55.3 57.5 60 62.5 65 67 69 71<br />
Inside leg length 47.5 51 54.5 58 61.5 65 68 71 74 77 80 83 86 89 92<br />
Neck<br />
circumference<br />
28 28.5 29.5 30.5 31.5 32.5 33.5 34.5 35.5 36.5 37.5 38 38.5 39 39.5<br />
Table 87: Girls' wear [cm]<br />
Girls' wear<br />
Height 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 176 182 188<br />
Chest 58 59 60 62 64 67 71 75 79 83 86 89 92 95<br />
Waist 54 55 56 57 59 61 63 65 67 69 71 73 75 77<br />
Hips 61 63 65 67 70 73 77 81 85 89 93 96 99 102<br />
Arm length 39.1 41.4 43.7 46 48.3 50.6 52.8 55 57.3 59.5 61.5 63.5 65.5 67.5<br />
Inside leg<br />
length<br />
47.5 51 55 59 63 67 70 72.5 75 77.5 80 82.5 85 87.5<br />
Neck<br />
circumference<br />
28 28.5 29 29.5 30 30.7 31.5 32.2 33.3 33.7 34.5 35.5 36.5 37.5<br />
Shirts and Blouses<br />
In EU and <strong>Switzerland</strong>, sizes for men’s shirts are based on neck<br />
circumference in cm or inches and vary respectively from 37-48<br />
cm and from 15-19 in, and can be extended with other measurements,<br />
of which arm length is the most important. The sizes<br />
XS-XXL are also used for leisure or sport shirts, also in combination<br />
with the usual shirt size. For women’s and children’s wear, the<br />
standard outerwear sizes are used.
Labelling<br />
The International Association for Textile Care Labelling (GINETEX<br />
France - Groupement International d’Etiquetage pour l’Entretien<br />
des Textiles, www.ginetex.org), which represents the textile<br />
producing and retailing industries in 16 European countries (EU<br />
countries as well as <strong>Switzerland</strong> and Tunisia as non-EU countries<br />
included), has devised an internationally applicable care labelling<br />
system for textiles based on symbols of pictogram. Only those care<br />
labels issued by the GINETEX may be used by the retailers/manufacturers<br />
in the GINETEX member countries.<br />
The care identification symbols are protected under trademark law.<br />
The marks are owned by the aforementioned GINETEX Group.<br />
The care identification is also covered by international standards<br />
(ISO 3758 / EN 23 758).<br />
In <strong>Switzerland</strong>, the row of symbols may not be reproduced, issued<br />
or used without a special agreement with SARTEX (Swiss Association<br />
for Textile Marking – www.sartex.ch). The contracting companies<br />
undertake to make correct use of these symbols at all times<br />
within the meaning of the relevant guidelines.<br />
These guidelines apply to all textiles and textile products sold in<br />
<strong>Switzerland</strong> and require a declaration as to the kind and content<br />
of the raw materials used. Pursuant to the agreement with the<br />
user, legal action will be taken in the event of any breach of this<br />
undertaking. The textile labelling regulations set by the individual<br />
member states of the European Union (EU Standards) comply<br />
with the Swiss guidelines and requirements. The right to use these<br />
trademarks has been given to the national member bodies of<br />
GINETEX. SARTEX is independent in regard to its structure and<br />
operating methods, but should adhere in all respects to the use<br />
of internationally agreed symbols (above) as well as to technical<br />
regulations and decisions taken at the GINETEX level. Commercial<br />
companies (wholesalers, importers etc.) are required to include the<br />
undertaking to ensure correct care identification and appropriate<br />
labelling in compliance with the Swiss guidelines in their orders for<br />
deliveries.<br />
There are two kinds of requirements in the EU and <strong>Switzerland</strong>:<br />
Mandatory requirements contain requirements like size, fibre<br />
content and care-labelling/washing instructions. With regard to fibre<br />
content: the indication 100% or pure can be used within a margin<br />
of 2 percent of the weight of the final product. Other fibres with a<br />
weight of less than 10 percent of the weight of the final products<br />
can be mentioned; in that case, all other fibres must be mentioned.<br />
An international care-labelling program is in use in many countries,<br />
also outside the EU. The program uses five basic symbols,<br />
which relate to the properties of colour-fastness, dimensional<br />
stability, effect of retained chlorine (bleach), maximum safe ironing<br />
temperatures and certain other properties.<br />
Voluntary requirements, such as origin marking, brand or product<br />
name and other consumer information.<br />
The care label<br />
• should be durably fixed to the textile article,<br />
• should be legible during the whole lifetime of the article.<br />
In particular it should withstand the washing and dry cleaning<br />
process it recommends,<br />
• should be clearly positioned where it is easily noted and without<br />
interference from a seam,<br />
• should not show through the article and spoil its appearance.<br />
Other forms of information may be combined on the same label<br />
but clearly separated from each other. Garments consisting of<br />
easily separable parts should be labelled on each of the parts.<br />
There should only be one single care label on an article even if the<br />
different components have to carry further information (for example<br />
fibre content). The object of labelling is to inform the consumer<br />
and the commercial textile care industries when buying, using or<br />
cleaning the articles. Therefore labels should be easily detectable.<br />
The label should be affixed permanently and positioned always at<br />
the same places depending on the type of the article. Because of<br />
differences in materials, production, demands of fashion etc. these<br />
requests can only partially be fulfilled and by way of exception an<br />
alternative place of positioning is given. To achieve a maximum of<br />
conformity, recommended positions are laid down.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 130
Table 88: The washing labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)<br />
131 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Symbols Maximum washing temperature Care process<br />
95°C mechanical action normal<br />
rinsing normal<br />
spinning normal<br />
95°C mechanical action reduced<br />
rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature<br />
spinning reduced<br />
60°C mechanical action normal<br />
rinsing normal<br />
spinning normal<br />
60°C mechanical action reduced<br />
rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature<br />
spinning reduced<br />
40°C<br />
40°C<br />
40°C<br />
30°C<br />
mechanical action normal<br />
rinsing normal<br />
spinning normal<br />
mechanical action reduced<br />
rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature<br />
spinning reduced<br />
mechanical action highly reduced<br />
rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature<br />
spinning highly reduced<br />
mechanical action normal<br />
rinsing normal<br />
spinning normal
Symbols Maximum washing temperature Care process<br />
30°C<br />
30°C<br />
40°C hand wash only<br />
- Do not wash<br />
mechanical action reduced<br />
rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature<br />
spinning reduced<br />
mechanical action highly reduced<br />
rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature<br />
spinning highly reduced<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 132
Table 89: Ironing labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)<br />
Symbols Care Process<br />
133 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Iron at maximum soleplate<br />
temperature of 200° C<br />
Iron at maximum soleplate<br />
temperature of 150° C<br />
Iron at maximum soleplate<br />
temperature of 110° C<br />
(steam iron may be risky)<br />
Do not iron<br />
Dry cleaning<br />
Letters (A, P and F) in the circle refer to the solvents which may be<br />
used by dry cleaners. Underlining the circle indicates that a specific<br />
process should be used (mild process with strict limitations on<br />
the addition of water and/or mechanical action and/or temperature<br />
during cleaning and/or drying). In this case, self-service cleaning is<br />
not allowed.<br />
Table 90: Dry cleaning labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)<br />
Symbols Care Process<br />
Dry-cleaning in all solvents normally used<br />
for dry-cleaning except trichloroethylene with<br />
normal cleaning procedures.<br />
Self-service cleaning is possible<br />
The bar placed under the circle indicates<br />
strict limitations on the addition of water and/<br />
or mechanical action and/or temperature<br />
during cleaning and/or drying.<br />
Self-service cleaning is not allowed<br />
Only petroleum solvents may be used with<br />
normal cleaning procedures<br />
The bar placed under the circle indicates<br />
strict limitations on the addition of water and/<br />
or mechanical action and/or temperature<br />
during cleaning and/or drying.<br />
Self-service cleaning is not allowe<br />
Do not dry-clean - no stain removal with<br />
solvents<br />
Table 91: Dry cleaning labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)<br />
continued<br />
Symbols Care process<br />
No wet-cleaning possible<br />
Wet-cleaning possible<br />
Gentle wet-cleaning possible<br />
Very gentle wet-cleaning possible
Tumble drying<br />
The tumble drying symbol (a circle in a square) must be completed<br />
by one or two dots for two different temperature levels.<br />
Table 92: Tumble drying labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)<br />
Symbols Care process<br />
Bleaching<br />
No restrictions concerning the temperature<br />
of tumble drying after a washing process<br />
Tumble drying possible at lower<br />
temperature setting (60° C maximum) after<br />
a washing process<br />
Do not tumble dry<br />
Table 93: Bleaching labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)<br />
The empty triangle means that all<br />
bleaching processes are allowed<br />
The triangle with the two lines means that<br />
only oxygen based bleach and no chloride<br />
based bleach is allowed<br />
The crossed black triangle means that<br />
bleaching is not possible<br />
(normal washing powder allowed)<br />
Below is some useful general information how to use the care<br />
labels and what to write on them:<br />
Care Labelling – General Recommendations for Exporters<br />
Washing<br />
All garments worn close to the skin should preferably be washable<br />
at 60º C., normal mechanical agitation. All other garments should<br />
be washable at 40º C., normal mechanical agitation. The bar under<br />
the wash tub should only be used in the case of delicate fabrics.<br />
The bar indicates that the mechanical agitation should be reduced.<br />
The broken bar should only be used in the case of machine was-<br />
hable wool and machine washable silk. The broken bar indicates<br />
that the mechanical agitation should be much reduced. The handwash<br />
symbol should only be used for articles which cannot be<br />
washed in the washing machine.<br />
Bleaching<br />
Normally the symbol is crossed out. Ironing three dots for cotton<br />
and linen; two dots for acetate, metallised fibres, polyamide,<br />
polyester, tri-acetate, viscose, wool, angora and silk; one dot for<br />
acrylic, modacrylic, elastane. The symbol should be crossed out<br />
for chlorofibres and polypropylene.<br />
Dry cleaning<br />
Only use the symbol P. The bar under the symbol only to be used<br />
for delicate fabrics, especially those made from angora.#<br />
Tumble drying<br />
Two dots for all cotton and linen articles, one dot for all other compositions.<br />
Care should be taken that articles are finished properly<br />
to prevent excessive shrinkage. This should be tested.<br />
Note: the ‘weakest’ fibre determines the selection of the symbols in<br />
blended materials.<br />
Ecolabels<br />
In the late nineties and at the beginning of the millennium, various<br />
competing ecolabels were popular all over Europe. In the beginning,<br />
they were mainly used for under- and baby wear. Many<br />
labels have now disappeared and the approach to the whole ‘ecological’<br />
issue about textiles and clothing is broader and considers<br />
the whole supply-chain from the crop over the production process<br />
up to the delivery into the shop. Social and environmental aspects<br />
play an important role (cf. chapter on ‘Trade Related Environmental<br />
and Social Issues’).<br />
Currently, the German/Swiss Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is widely<br />
accepted in the EU countries and <strong>Switzerland</strong> as well.<br />
Öko-Tex 100<br />
A recent statistical evaluation of the certificates issued throughout<br />
the world highlighted the importance of the Oeko-Tex Standard<br />
100 as the world’s leading test label of its type at this time. Today,<br />
this label is the most widely used, and among European consumers<br />
best-known, ecolabel in relation to textiles and clothing.<br />
It was developed in 1993 by the ‘International Association for<br />
Research and Testing in the field of Textile Ecology’ and changed<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 134
in 1997. Companies in the EU, <strong>Switzerland</strong> and throughout the<br />
world have applied for more than 82'000 certificates (2009 data).<br />
The headquarters of Oeko-Tex International is located in Zürich/<br />
<strong>Switzerland</strong> (www.oeko-tex.com).<br />
Obtaining the Oeko-Tex label involves testing for harmful substances<br />
according to the criteria which are laid down for each<br />
product class. Harmful substances may have negative effect on<br />
the human health. Importers from outside the EU have become<br />
aware of the significance of this label. The number of the importers<br />
who ask for Oeko-Tex is growing continuously.<br />
The standard specifies four article classes:<br />
• Articles for babies<br />
• Articles in direct contact with skin<br />
• Articles without direct skin contact<br />
• Decoration material<br />
The standard consists of the following fundamental<br />
guidelines:<br />
• Requirements apply to the end product only<br />
• Exclusion of certain dyes which can cause cancer or allergic<br />
reactions<br />
• No flame retardant or biochemical treatment allowed<br />
• Limitation of harmful substances in the end product (pesticides,<br />
formaldehyde, heavy metals)<br />
• Differentiated limitations according to textile types and target<br />
groups<br />
The Oeko-Tex 100 Standard comprehensively addresses the<br />
Human Ecology component of textile products. It evaluates and<br />
screens for any harmful substances present within processed textiles<br />
intended to come into contact with consumers. The advantage<br />
for clothing exporters of applying for Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is<br />
that this system is built up in a modular way and enables reliable<br />
135 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
and comprehensive assessment within a realistic time frame. This<br />
is advantageous when considering the nature of the clothing and<br />
textile industry with its fashion-conscious, dynamic pace.<br />
The Oeko-Tex scheme is available to manufacturers world-wide.<br />
Although it is far more cost effective to test at each stage of the<br />
production process, it is still possible to certify the finished product<br />
itself at any time. Another advantage of the system is, that if a product<br />
is checked and certified at a particular stage of the production<br />
process chain, it can then be used in the next stage without having<br />
to be re-tested.<br />
The designation is restricted to one year, after which the product<br />
will need to undergo new testing. The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 as<br />
well as the Oeko-Tex 100 plus label have achieved a worldwide<br />
acceptance with an increased number of registered companies<br />
also in Asia and South America.<br />
Oeko-Tex Standard 100 plus<br />
The first edition of the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 was issued in 1995.<br />
It outlined the requirements for environmentally friendly production.<br />
Manufacturing sites fulfilling a strict set of criteria, addressing<br />
areas such as banned chemicals and harmful manufacturing<br />
processes were licensed to carry the label ‘Umweltfreundliche<br />
Betriebsstätte’ (lit. Environmentally Friendly Manufacturing Site)<br />
which they could use as proof of an environmental management<br />
system. First organizations were subsequently audited in a pilot<br />
project.<br />
The ‘Oeko-Tex Standard 100 plus’ label was awarded for the first<br />
time in 1999. This related to a finished product which fulfilled the<br />
requirements of the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and was also produced<br />
only on sites carrying the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 licence.<br />
Generally speaking, it can be recommended that clothing exporters<br />
from developing and emerging countries should concentrate<br />
on this OekoTex 100 label. The Oeko-Tex label can be used to<br />
distinguish a textile product from competitors.<br />
8.1.3 Trade related environmental and social issues<br />
Apart from legal requirements, nowadays producers are being<br />
confronted more and more with additional requirements. EU and<br />
Swiss buyers want more information from producers, for example<br />
about the social conditions at their production sites or environmentally<br />
sound production. Many companies are now, before signing
any contract with their suppliers checking the fulfilment of the social<br />
standards at the production site. The BSCI programme (more<br />
details under www.bsci-eu.org) is one organisation that takes a<br />
closer look on the social standards of producers. Although the<br />
requirements in this field are not a part of official legislation and<br />
have no legal basis, it is recommended to take them into account<br />
in order to be competitive.<br />
If a manufacturer wants to indicate to external parties that he is<br />
manufacturing in an environmentally sound way, he can comply<br />
with standards which have been developed for this purpose. The<br />
major standards and current market requirements are described in<br />
this chapter.<br />
Environmental requirements<br />
Environmental aspects play an important role for outerwear<br />
manufacturers interested in exporting to the European market<br />
given that environmental aspects are a major issue in the EU and<br />
<strong>Switzerland</strong>. Besides governmental actions (legislative, regulations),<br />
a strong consumer movement is not to be underestimated,<br />
especially in the Northern and Western parts of the EU (Scandinavia,<br />
Germany, Netherlands, United Kingdom) and in <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />
These aspects are not just a trend - these are lasting issues,<br />
which, together with other determinants such as price and quality,<br />
have a strongest impact on the positioning of a supplier in the<br />
European market.<br />
The capacity of a company to use the environmental approach towards<br />
its products such as eco-labels (for products, see also ecolabels),<br />
environmental management standards (for the whole organisation)<br />
and production processes are ‘green’ marketing tools,<br />
which have been created by governments and private parties.<br />
Being a part of the business chain, companies in developing<br />
countries may also become responsible for negative side effects<br />
of their business and their impact on society, the environment and<br />
their employees.<br />
Environmental management system<br />
An ‘Environmental Management System’ (EMS) is important for<br />
environmental protection and pollution prevention in the production<br />
phases. It is a management tool which enables an overview of<br />
the environmental impact of the company and the possible way it<br />
could be diminished. At the moment there are two general voluntary<br />
standards with which manufacturers can comply: ISO 14001<br />
and EMAS, both of them based on the popular ISO 9000 series of<br />
quality management standards.<br />
The EU’s Ecological Management and Audit Scheme (EMAS) has<br />
been operating since 1995. It applies to companies with production<br />
facilities within the EU and therefore is not relevant for exporters<br />
from developing countries. However, ISO 14001 is favoured by<br />
exporters to the EU and <strong>Switzerland</strong> as well.<br />
The ISO 14001 Environmental management system was published<br />
in November 1996. It has a similar impact to the ISO 9000<br />
Quality Management Systems series. The objective of ISO 14001<br />
standard is to provide companies with the necessary elements of<br />
an environmental management system, which can be integrated<br />
into business policies to achieve environmental and economic<br />
goals, such as compliance with legislation and demands set by the<br />
company as well as continuous improvement of the environmental<br />
performance of the company. ISO 14001 specifies only general<br />
requirements for an environmental management system, but it<br />
contains no environmental performance criteria.<br />
Product related requirements<br />
The main characteristics of the production process are the vast<br />
quantities of water required and the variety of chemicals used in<br />
the processing stages, which cause much waste. Typical environmental<br />
problems associated with the production of textiles are<br />
water pollution because of discharge of untreated effluent. Liquid<br />
wastes arising from washing contain a substantial organic and<br />
suspended pollution load, such as fibres and grease. Effluents are<br />
generally hot, alkaline, strong smelling and coloured by chemicals<br />
used in dyeing processes. Some of the chemicals discharged are<br />
toxic and can lower the dissolved oxygen of receiving waters, threaten<br />
aquatic life and damage general water quality downstream.<br />
There are many ways to reduce the amount of water used and<br />
emitted. Concerning dyes and pigments, there are many alternatives<br />
available which are less polluting. Other technologies make it<br />
possible to use less dye and reduce or eliminate spillage of dyes.<br />
Quality related requirements<br />
A quality related requirement is the so called Quality management<br />
standards which refer to the management of a company. This is<br />
in contrast to most of the other standards, labels and markings<br />
described, all of which relate to product or production processes.<br />
Quality management standards are not compulsory for market<br />
entry into the EU; however, they can definitely contribute to<br />
the company’s image in the market. The most important quality<br />
management system is ISO 9000, inspired by the concept of Total<br />
Quality Management. TQM is a philosophy based on customer sa-<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 136
tisfaction and continuous performance improvement. ISO established<br />
a policy committee, DEVCO, specifically to address the needs<br />
of developing countries. See http://www.iso.org<br />
Azo dyes and other harmful substances<br />
Azo dyes are among the leading colouring agents in the textile<br />
industry, especially in developing countries. Approximately 70% of<br />
all dyes used in the textile industry are azo dyes. There are about<br />
2'000 different azo dyes, of which approximately 200-300 may fall<br />
under a ban. Dyes in the category of direct, azoic/naphtol, disperse,<br />
acid or basic dyes may split off carcinogenic amines.<br />
Many azo dyes above the concentration of 30 ppm are prohibited<br />
in the EU and also in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. The ban on azo dyes is applicable<br />
to all products that are in contact with skin for long periods<br />
of time. The manufacturer must also take into consideration the<br />
fact that the products, once they have entered the EU, can be ‘reexported’<br />
or transferred easily to <strong>Switzerland</strong> and other European<br />
countries. Therefore, it is highly recommendable to follow the Azo<br />
regulations.<br />
The best way to avoid problems with banned azo dyes is to use<br />
only dyes which are absolutely safe. Use dyestuff supplied by<br />
reputable manufacturers, who give the Colour Index numbers, the<br />
generic names and material data sheets. Ask for azo-safe certificates,<br />
choose reputable certified laboratories and discuss this<br />
matter with your customer.<br />
Other substances used in the textile and clothing industry that are<br />
banned (or allowed to a limited extent) in some EU countries and<br />
<strong>Switzerland</strong> are: pentachlorophenol (PCP), cadmium, formaldehyde<br />
and nickel. Polychlorobipheniles (PCB) and terphenyles<br />
(PCT) have a total prohibition, as do asbestos and certain flame<br />
retardants.<br />
Flame retardants<br />
Flame retardants are used in textiles to reduce their flammability.<br />
Tri- (2, 3, -dibromopropyl)-phosphate (TRIS) and tris-(aziridinyl)phosphineoxide<br />
(TEPA) are both carcinogenic and mutagenic,<br />
which means that these substances may alter genetic material.<br />
Polybromobiphenyles (PBB) are highly persistent, carcinogenic<br />
and reprotoxic. Moreover they also have effects on the immune<br />
system and the nerve system.<br />
137 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Since 1 June 2009, the prohibition of the use of three flame<br />
retardants is laid down in Annex XVII to the EU Regulation (EC)<br />
1907/2006 on the registration, evaluation and authorisation of chemicals<br />
(REACH), which is directly applicable in all member states.<br />
Until this date, this matter was regulated by means of Directive<br />
76/769/EEC on the marketing and use of certain dangerous substances<br />
and preparations and its amendments, which is repealed<br />
by the REACH Regulation.<br />
The EU legislation prohibits the use of:<br />
• Tri-(2, 3, -dibromopropyl)-phosphate (TRIS) (CAS No1 126-72-7)<br />
• Tris-(aziridinyl)-phosphineoxide (TEPA) (CAS No 5455-55-1)<br />
• Polybromobiphenyles (PBB) (CAS No 59536-65-1)<br />
in textile articles intended to come into contact with skin, like<br />
garments, underwear and linen. They are also prohibited in <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />
Nickel in clothing accessories<br />
Nickel is a metal that is sometimes used in alloys used for ornaments<br />
(such as armlets, bracelets and earrings) and in clothing<br />
accessories (such as zippers and buttons). The occurrence of increasing<br />
number of cases of people with nickel allergy symptoms<br />
has forced the EU to set limits for the nickel content in products<br />
coming in contact with the skin.<br />
Since 1 June 2009, the restriction on the nickel1 content in certain<br />
products is laid down in Annex XVII to the new EU Regulation<br />
(EC) 1907/2006 on the registration, evaluation and authorisation<br />
of chemicals (REACH), which is directly applicable in all member<br />
states. Until this date, this matter was regulated by means of<br />
Directive 76/769/EEC on the marketing and use of certain dangerous<br />
substances and preparations and its amendments, which<br />
will be repealed by REACH. The legislation lays down certain<br />
requirements for specific applications which are presented in the<br />
next table.<br />
Perfluorooctane sulfonates (PFOS)<br />
Perfluoroocatane sulfonates (PFOS) are commercially available<br />
in the form of salts, derivatives and polymers. PFOS-related<br />
substances are used for providing grease, oil and water resistance<br />
to materials such as textiles, carpets, upholstery, leather, apparel,
paper and packaging and in general coating. The substances<br />
used in these areas are largely PFOS-polymers for fabrics and<br />
PFOS-substances for paper treatment and coatings. Other smaller<br />
volume uses are in chromium plating, photography, photolithography,<br />
fire fighting foams and in hydraulic fluids for aviation.<br />
Recent studies have shown that the PFOS are persistent, bioaccumulative<br />
and toxic for mammals. PFOS have the potential to<br />
spread over large distances and produce adverse effects on the<br />
environment. They therefore fulfil the criteria for being considered<br />
as persistent organic pollutants (POPs). In order to protect the<br />
environment from these substances, legislation has been laid<br />
down that sets strict limits for the use and marketing of PFOS and<br />
products containing PFOS.<br />
Table 94: Maximal content of PFOS permitted<br />
Application Max. content permitted<br />
As a substance or<br />
< 0.005% by mass<br />
constituent of preparations<br />
As semi-finished products < 0.1% by mass<br />
or articles, or parts thereof<br />
In textiles or other coated
ciples or Codes of Conduct. These reflect the company’s position<br />
towards business ethics, labour conditions, environment. They<br />
should point out the contribution of the company to these issues.<br />
The company also has to introduce mechanisms which measure<br />
the true effectiveness of the Code of Conduct.<br />
Social Accountability (SA 8000)<br />
SA 8000 is an international standard for social accountability and<br />
was founded in 1997. Its purpose is to ensure ethical sourcing<br />
of goods and services. It is a voluntary standard, which sets<br />
basic standards for child labour, forced labour, health and safety,<br />
freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining,<br />
discrimination, disciplinary practices, wage levels, working hours<br />
and compensation. The requirements in the standard are based<br />
on recommendations of the International Labour Organization<br />
(ILO) and on agreements and conventions of the United Nations<br />
(Human Rights, Rights of the Child).<br />
SA 8000 supports the demands of consumers for worldwide social<br />
standards and is internationally recognized. SA 8000 accreditation<br />
is valid for three years with surveillance and observation audits<br />
every six months. Those that meet the requirements have the right<br />
to display the SA 8000 certification mark.<br />
Clean Clothes Campaign<br />
The European wide ‘Clean Clothes Campaign’ based in Amsterdam,<br />
which is based on the SA 8000 regulations, is also politically<br />
very strong in <strong>Switzerland</strong>. This organization publishes regular<br />
newsletters regarding ‘social behaviour’ when dealing with the<br />
supplier countries of leading Swiss clothing retailers and manufacturers<br />
(please compare www.cleanclothes.ch and www.evb.ch).<br />
Sources of Information<br />
For detailed information about environmental aspects relevant to<br />
trade at EU level, please refer to the websites of SIPPO and CBI<br />
(www.sippo.ch and www.cbi.nl, especially the CBI Access Guide.<br />
Other sources of information are the WTO web site (http://www.<br />
wto.org), the European Commission (http://europa.eu).<br />
8.1.4 Present trade regulations<br />
European Union<br />
All EU countries apply common Customs tariffs to imports from<br />
outside the Union. If there is no special trade agreement in force,<br />
the general import tariff applies.<br />
139 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Most of the developing countries have been granted special trade<br />
preferences; these countries usually benefit from zero duties<br />
through preferential treatment under the Renewed Generalised<br />
System of Preferences (RGSP) or under the 4th Lomé Convention<br />
for the African, Caribbean and Pacific (ACP) countries.<br />
RGSP (Renewed Generalised System of Preferences)<br />
This agreement allows products originating in the countries<br />
concerned to be imported at preferential tariffs or, for the least<br />
developed countries even duty-free. A ‘Certificate of Origin Form<br />
A’ has to be filled in by the exporter and issued by the competent<br />
authorities. Tariff contingents and ceilings do not exist any more.<br />
As stated in Resolution 21 (ii) taken at the UNCTAD II Conference<br />
in New Delhi in 1968;<br />
"… the objectives of the generalized, non-reciprocal, non-discriminatory<br />
system of preferences in favour of the developing countries,<br />
including special measures in favour of the least advanced among<br />
the developing countries, should be:<br />
(a) to increase their export earnings;<br />
(b) to promote their industrialization; and<br />
(c) to accelerate their rates of economic growth."<br />
Under GSP schemes of preference-giving counties, selected<br />
products originating in developing countries are granted reduced<br />
or zero tariff rates over the MFN rates. The least developed countries<br />
(LDCs) receive special and preferential treatment for a wider<br />
coverage of products and deeper tariff cuts.<br />
The idea of granting developing countries preferential tariff rates in<br />
the markets of industrialized countries was originally presented by<br />
Raul Prebisch, the first Secretary-General of UNCTAD, at the first<br />
UNCTAD conference in 1964. The GSP was adopted at UNCTAD<br />
II in New Delhi in 1968.<br />
In 1971, the GATT Contracting Parties approved a waiver to Article<br />
I of the General Agreement for 10 years in order to authorize the<br />
GSP scheme. Later, the Contracting Parties decided to adopt the<br />
1979 Enabling Clause, Decision of the Contracting Parties of 28<br />
November 1979 (26S/203) entitled "Differential and more favourable<br />
treatment, reciprocity and fuller participation of developing
countries", creating a permanent waiver to the most-favoured-nation<br />
clause to allow preference-giving countries to grant preferential<br />
tariff treatment under their respective GSP schemes.<br />
There are currently 13 national GSP schemes notified to the UNC-<br />
TAD secretariat. The following countries grant GSP preferences:<br />
Australia, Belarus, Bulgaria, Canada, Estonia, the European<br />
Union, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, the Russian Federation,<br />
<strong>Switzerland</strong>, Turkey and the United States of America.<br />
Lomé Convention (for ACP countries)<br />
The partnership agreement between the European Union (EU)<br />
member states and the African, Caribbean and Pacific (ACP)<br />
states marks five generations of agreements between ACP-EC<br />
sovereign states. It is the world’s largest financial and political<br />
framework for North-South cooperation.<br />
Its main characteristics are:<br />
the partnership principle, the contractual nature of the relationship,<br />
and the combination of aid, trade and political aspects, together<br />
with its long-term perspective (5 years for Lomé I, II, and III, and<br />
ten for Lomé IV). Products originating in the ACP countries can be<br />
imported without duties and quotas, when a ‘Movement Certificate<br />
EUR.1’ is filled in by the exporter and issued by the competent<br />
authorities, such as the local Chamber of Commerce. Tariff contingents<br />
and tariff ceilings no longer exist.<br />
Preferential duty regimes under Free Trade Agreements (FTAs)<br />
The EU also has many free trade agreements with partners in the<br />
region (the central European countries, the Mediterranean countries)<br />
and beyond (Mexico, Chile). FTAs now increasingly involve<br />
provisions affecting non-tariff measures and regulatory issues<br />
such as provisions on trade facilitation and rule-making in areas<br />
such as investment, intellectual property, government procurement,<br />
technical standards and SPS issues.<br />
The following Free Trade Agreement is also valid for <strong>Switzerland</strong>:<br />
• Canada<br />
• Chile<br />
• Croatia<br />
• Egypt<br />
• Israel<br />
• Jordan<br />
• South Korea<br />
• Lebanon<br />
• Macedonia<br />
• Mexico<br />
• Morocco<br />
• Palestinian National Authority<br />
• Singapore<br />
• Southern African Customs Union<br />
(Botswana, Lesotho, Namibia, Swaziland, South Africa)<br />
• Tunisia<br />
• Turkey<br />
Signed agreement 2008, not yet ratified<br />
• Colombia<br />
Signed agreement 2009, not yet ratified<br />
• Gulf Co-operation Council (Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman,<br />
Qatar, Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates)<br />
Finalised negotiations 2008<br />
• Peru<br />
Currently negotiating agreements<br />
• Algeria<br />
• Hong Kong<br />
• India<br />
• Thailand<br />
Declarations on Cooperation<br />
• Albania<br />
• Mercosur (Brazil, Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay)<br />
• Mongolia<br />
• Serbia<br />
• Ukraine<br />
Non-tariff barriers<br />
Examples of non-tariff barriers are anti-dumping measures,<br />
sanitary sanctions, quota restrictions, environmental clauses and<br />
intellectual property rights. The most important form of non-tariff<br />
barriers regarding clothing is quota restrictions.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 140
Many clothing items are already quota-free, but WTO rules allow<br />
importer countries to impose anti-dumping duties if there is evidence<br />
that markets are being disrupted by selling below costs.<br />
Anti-dumping measures<br />
Anti-dumping implies that, under WTO regulations, exporters are<br />
expected to sell their products at fair market value, at a price above<br />
cost and without imposing higher domestic prices for the same<br />
product that would in effect subsidize their lower export prices. In<br />
the event of predatory pricing by a particular company or country,<br />
the importing country is allowed to impose a duty surcharge on the<br />
imported product, to bring the final price up to fair market value.<br />
Anti-fraud investigations and actions<br />
Besides anti-dumping measures, the EU is stepping up anti-fraud<br />
investigations and actions against fraud designed to:<br />
• circumvent trade policy measures, such as anti-dumping<br />
measures;<br />
• benefit illegally from preferential treatment such as that<br />
under GSP;<br />
• cheat consumers (claiming EU origin for products produced<br />
elsewhere);<br />
• combat counterfeiting and piracy (copying exclusive designs<br />
and models without permission of the owner).<br />
Financial instruments in the EU<br />
The awarding of tariff preferences or the levying of ‘environmental<br />
taxes’ on products is one of the major instruments of the<br />
EU (besides legislation) to promote environmentally sound<br />
products. Such preferential systems are the common subsidy<br />
and schemes, Green GSP, which works on the assumption<br />
that extra preferences can be awarded on top of the preferences<br />
for producers who show their commitment to the environment<br />
and who search for cleaner production techniques to reduce the<br />
environmental damage from their production processes and final<br />
products. The EU principle ‘the polluter pays’ becomes obvious<br />
as responsibilities for pollution prevention and clean-up are<br />
increasingly placed in the hand of the polluter. European importers<br />
faced with this will want to share such extra costs with their<br />
developing country partners.<br />
141 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
<strong>Switzerland</strong><br />
General Foreign Trade Conditions - World Trade Organization<br />
(WTO) and Free Trade Agreements<br />
On July 1st, 1995 <strong>Switzerland</strong> joined the WTO (formerly GATT)<br />
and since then has applied the ‘most favoured clause’ regarding<br />
trade to all WTO member countries. This also applies to dealings<br />
with regions and countries where <strong>Switzerland</strong> has signed bilateral<br />
or multilateral agreements on trade. Furthermore, by joining<br />
the WTO, <strong>Switzerland</strong> had to change most of the non-tariff trade<br />
barriers to customs duties. Moreover, <strong>Switzerland</strong> is a member of<br />
the European Free Trade Association (EFTA). The dismantling of<br />
tariffs by the EFTA, in parallel to the European Economic Community<br />
(EEC), has eliminated to a large degree the customs duties<br />
between the European Union (EU), the EFTA countries and <strong>Switzerland</strong>,<br />
at least as regards industrial products (including clothing).<br />
Within the EFTA framework, <strong>Switzerland</strong> is part of the Schengen<br />
Area. Further, ‘pan- European cumulation’ has been in effect since<br />
July 1st 1997. <strong>Switzerland</strong> has entered bilateral trade agreements<br />
with numerous other countries to prevent double taxation and to<br />
protect and promote mutual investment.<br />
The Swiss generalised system of preferences<br />
General principles<br />
The preferential treatment given to exports of developing countries<br />
is designed to help increase and diversify their export. The<br />
Swiss Generalised System of Preferences (GSP) was introduced<br />
on March 1st, 1972 in compliance with <strong>Switzerland</strong>’s intention to<br />
implement Resolution 21 (II) adopted by the United Nations Conference<br />
on Trade And Development (UNCTAD) in 1968.<br />
Beneficiaries of preferences<br />
In principle, all developing countries and economies in transition<br />
are eligible for preferences under the Swiss scheme, with the<br />
exception of countries or territories that have reached a high<br />
level of development. The exclusion is based on objective criteria.<br />
GSP benefits will not be granted to countries which are members<br />
of OECD or have a free trade agreement with <strong>Switzerland</strong>.<br />
Also excluded are countries which the Development Assistance<br />
Committee (DAC) of the OECD has classified as a most advanced<br />
developing country or territory under Part II of its list of development<br />
aid recipients. Scope of preferences
<strong>Switzerland</strong> grants preferential reductions amounting to 50% of the<br />
normal rate on textiles and clothing. The least developed countries<br />
benefit from exemption for clothing and textiles. Complete<br />
up-to-date information on custom tariffs may be obtained from the<br />
Federal Customs Administration OZD.<br />
Rules of Origin<br />
The Swiss Scheme includes rules of origin which the goods must<br />
comply with in order to qualify for GSP treatment. To satisfy the<br />
rules of origin, the goods have to be either wholly produced in<br />
the beneficiary country or they must have undergone working or<br />
processing in a beneficiary country to specific processing criteria<br />
laid down in the regulations.<br />
The prerequisites for the origin of import textiles and clothing applied<br />
in the Swiss Generalised System of Preferences have been<br />
harmonised with EU and Norway. The rules related to the origin of<br />
manufactured goods were adapted to conform with the Pan- European<br />
cumulation system of October 1st, 1998. Therefore, textiles<br />
and clothing containing raw materials from EU countries and<br />
Norway may also be granted preference.<br />
Custom tariff<br />
Customs duties<br />
Although <strong>Switzerland</strong> has been a member of the Schengen Area<br />
since the end of 2008, it is not part of the European Customs Union.<br />
As a result, customs controls remain in place. The most important<br />
document for customs clearance is the customs declaration,<br />
which must be accompanied by the exporter’s invoice (indicating<br />
the weight) and confirmation of origin. A certificate of origin is<br />
required if one wishes to benefit from preferential duty rates or if<br />
the goods are to be re-exported.<br />
Unlike most other countries, <strong>Switzerland</strong> uses a system of<br />
customs clearance based on weight. This specific customs duty<br />
is therefore levied on products from non-EU/EFTA countries on<br />
the basis of weight. As a result, Swiss customs duties are usually<br />
lower than those of other countries. This favours the importation of<br />
high-quality technical components, which weigh very little but are<br />
extremely valuable.<br />
VAT (7.6%) is much lower than in neighbouring countries (Germany:<br />
19%, France: 19.6%, Austria: 20%, Italy: 20%).<br />
8.1.5 Implications after the elimination of the textile quotas<br />
The main challenges facing the European Union and Swiss<br />
textiles and clothing sector today are globalisation, modernisation<br />
and a murderous competition. Market access and fair trade have<br />
a higher priority for the textiles and clothing sector than 5 years<br />
back. Opening new markets, negotiations of bilateral agreements<br />
are aimed at ensuring that industry has time to adjust to full liberalisation.<br />
The EU and Swiss apparel imports showed a constant increase<br />
in recent years. In their outsourcing strategies, EU and Swiss<br />
manufacturers prefer Eastern European countries even over some<br />
Asian countries with even lower wage rates (such as Vietnam or<br />
China) due to their geographical proximity and their higher quality<br />
standards. Thus, EU and Swiss companies remain able to respond<br />
quickly to changing market demands.<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 142
9. Appendix.<br />
9.1 Associations of trade agents, wholesalers organisations and retail<br />
organisations in the countries analysed.<br />
9.1.1 Europe<br />
AEDT<br />
European Association of<br />
National Organisations of<br />
Textile Retailers<br />
9.1.2 France<br />
Federation Nationale des<br />
Entreprises A Commerces<br />
Multiples<br />
Federation of multiples and<br />
department stores<br />
Federation Nationale des<br />
Grands Magasins et des<br />
Magasins Populaires<br />
National federation of department<br />
stores<br />
143 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
9-13/4th,<br />
Avenue des Nerviens<br />
B - 1040 Bruxelles<br />
Tel.: +32 – 2 – 230 5296<br />
Fax: +32 – 2 – 230 2569<br />
www.aedt.org<br />
info@aedt.org<br />
46, Bd Magenta<br />
F - 75010 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4202 1769<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4206 5209<br />
(no website)<br />
11, rue Saint-Florentin<br />
F - 75008 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 42 60 02<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 42 60 15 09<br />
(no website)<br />
9.1.3 Germany<br />
Aussenhandelsvereinigung<br />
des Deutschen<br />
Einzelhandels Ev (Ave)<br />
Foreign Trade Association of<br />
German Retailers<br />
Bundesverband Des<br />
Deutschen Gross- Und<br />
Aussenhandels E.V. (BGA)<br />
Federal Association of<br />
German<br />
Wholesalers and Exporters<br />
Bundesverband des Deutschen<br />
Textileinzelhandels<br />
E. V. (BTE)<br />
Association of German<br />
Textile Retailers<br />
Bundesverband des Deutschen<br />
Versandhandels eV<br />
Association Of German Mail<br />
Ordercompanies<br />
Centralvereinigung<br />
Deutscher Wirtschaftsverbände<br />
Für Handelsvermittlung<br />
und Vertrieb<br />
(CDH)<br />
National Association of<br />
Trade Agents<br />
Mauritiussteinweg 1<br />
D - 50676 Köln<br />
Tel.: +49 – 221 – 921834 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 221 – 921834 – 6<br />
www.ave-koeln.de<br />
info@ave-koeln.de<br />
Am Weidendamm 1 A<br />
D - 10117 Berlin<br />
Tel.: +49 – 305 – 900 995 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 305 – 900 995 – 19<br />
www.bga.de<br />
info@bga.de<br />
An Lyskirchen 14<br />
D - 50676 Köln<br />
Tel.: +49 – 221 – 921 509 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 221 – 921 509 – 10<br />
www.bte.de<br />
info@bte.de<br />
Johann-Klotz-Str. 12<br />
D - 60528 Frankfurt/M.<br />
Tel.: +49 – 69 – 678 656 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 69 – 678 656 – 29<br />
www.versandhandel.org<br />
info@versandhandel.org<br />
Am Weidenbaum 1 A<br />
D - 10117 Berlin<br />
Tel.: +49 – 30 – 726 25600<br />
Fax: +49 – 30 – 726 25699<br />
www.cdh.de<br />
centralvereinigung@cdh.de
9.1.4 Italy 9.1.5 Spain<br />
Camera Nazionale Della<br />
Moda Italiana<br />
National Fashion Organisation<br />
Federazione Nazionale<br />
Associazioni Agenti e<br />
Rappresentanti di<br />
Commercio<br />
National Organisation of<br />
Trade Agents<br />
and Representatives<br />
Federazione Nazionale<br />
Dettaglianti Tessili e<br />
Abbigliamento<br />
National Organisation of Textile<br />
and Clothing Retailers<br />
Federazione Moda Italia<br />
Italian Fashion Organisation<br />
Sistema Moda Italia (SMI)<br />
Association of Italian Textile<br />
and Clothing Industry<br />
V. Morone Gerolamo 6<br />
I - 20121 Milano (MI)<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 777 1081<br />
Fax:<br />
+39 (0) – 2 777 10850 62<br />
www.cameramoda.it<br />
cameramoda@cameramoda.it<br />
Corso Venezia, 51<br />
I - 20121 Milano<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 – 764 5191<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 – 7600 8493<br />
www.fnaarc.it<br />
info@fnaarc.it<br />
Via Palestro, 24<br />
I - 20121 Milano<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 – 7601<br />
5212<br />
Fax:<br />
+39 (0) – 2 – 7600 3779<br />
(no website)<br />
Via Durini, 14<br />
I - 20122 – Milano<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2-7601 5212<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 2-7600 3779<br />
www.federazionemodaitalia.it<br />
info@federazionemodaitalia.it<br />
Viale Sarca, 223<br />
I - 20126 Milano<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 641191<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 66103667<br />
www.sistemamodaitalia.it<br />
info@sistemamodaitalia.it<br />
Asociacion de Comercio<br />
Textil - Acotex<br />
Association of Textile Trade<br />
Companies in the Region of<br />
Madrid<br />
Asociacion Espanola de<br />
Importadores y Distribuidores<br />
de Moda (Animoda)<br />
Association of Fashion Importers<br />
and Wholesalers<br />
Consejo Intertextil Espanol<br />
(CIE)<br />
Spanish International Textile<br />
Association<br />
Gremi de Comerc Textil i<br />
Sastreria<br />
Trade Association for Textile<br />
and Clothing<br />
Secretaria General de<br />
Comercio Exterior<br />
General Secretary of Foreign<br />
Trade<br />
C. Alberto Aguilera 66<br />
1-DCHA<br />
E - 28015 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-549 2397<br />
Fax: +34-91-549 9256<br />
www.acotex.org<br />
Lagasca 27-2 A<br />
E - 28001 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-4352 805<br />
Fax: +34-91-5761-735<br />
www.animoda.org<br />
Gran Via 670<br />
E - 08010 Barcelona<br />
Tel.: +34-93-318 9200<br />
Fax: +34-93-302 6235<br />
www.aitpa.es<br />
aitpa@aitpa.es<br />
Diputaci 290 pral.<br />
E - 08009 Barcelona<br />
Tel.: +34-933-017980<br />
Fax: +34-933-018720<br />
www.gremicomerctextil.es<br />
agtc@bcn.servicom.es<br />
Paeso de la Castellana 162<br />
E - 28071 Madrid<br />
www.mcx.es<br />
Buzon.Oficial@secgcomex.<br />
sscc.mcx.es<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 144
9.1.6 <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />
Swiss Fashion Stores<br />
Association of Fashion<br />
retailers<br />
c/o KPMG Fides - Hofgut<br />
Swiss Retail Federation<br />
Federation of retailers<br />
VSF – Verband<br />
Schweizerischer<br />
Filialunternehmen<br />
Federation of Swiss Chain<br />
Stores -<br />
c/o<br />
Advokaturbüro Utzinger<br />
VSIG – Vereinigung des<br />
Schweizer Import- und<br />
Grosshandels<br />
Association of Swiss<br />
Importers and<br />
Wholesalers<br />
VSV – Verband des<br />
Schweizerischen<br />
Versandhandels<br />
Federation of Swiss Mail<br />
Order Companies<br />
145 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
CH - 3073 Gümlingen<br />
Tel.: +41-31-384 77 04<br />
Fax: +41-31-384 76 96<br />
www.swiss-fashion-stores.ch<br />
office@swiss-fashion-stores.ch<br />
Marktgasse 50<br />
CH - 3000 Bern 7<br />
Tel.: +41-31-312 40 40<br />
Fax: +41-31-312 40 41<br />
www.swiss-retail.ch<br />
info@swiss-retail.ch<br />
Frohburgstr. 98<br />
CH - 8006 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41-44-363 14 00<br />
Fax: +41-44-363 15 25<br />
www.vsf-schweiz.ch<br />
vsf@ku-law.ch<br />
Güterstr. 78<br />
CH - 4010 Basel<br />
Tel.: +41-61-228 90 30<br />
Fax: +41-61-228 90 39<br />
www.vsig.ch<br />
info@vsig.ch<br />
General Wille-Strasse 144<br />
8706 Meilen<br />
Tel.: +41-58 - 310 07 17<br />
Fax: +41-58-310 07 18<br />
www.vsv-versandhandel.ch<br />
info@vsv-versandhandel.ch<br />
9.1.7 United Kingdom<br />
British Agents Register 5A Chelttenham Mount<br />
Harrogate,<br />
North Yorkshire<br />
GB - HG1 1DW<br />
Tel.: +44-1423-560608/9<br />
Fax: +44-1423-561204<br />
www.agentsregister.com<br />
info@agentsregister.com<br />
British Fashion Council Somerset House, South Wing<br />
Strand, London, WC2R 1LA<br />
Tel.: +44 - 20-7759 1999<br />
www.britishfashioncouncil.com<br />
info@britishfashioncouncil.com<br />
British Menswear Guild 5 Portland Place<br />
GB - London, W1B 1PW<br />
Tel.: +44-20-7580 8783<br />
Fax: +44-20-7436 8833<br />
www.british-menswear-guild.<br />
co.uk<br />
director@british-mens-wearguild.<br />
co.uk<br />
British shops and store<br />
Association Ltd. (Bssa)<br />
Middleton House<br />
2 Main Road –<br />
Middleton Cheney<br />
GB - Banbury – Oxon OX17 2TN<br />
Tel.: +44-1295-712277<br />
Fax: +44-1295-711665<br />
www.british-shops.co.uk<br />
info@bssa.co.uk
9.2 Industry federations in<br />
<strong>Switzerland</strong> and EU-countries.<br />
9.2.1 France<br />
Union Francaise<br />
des Industries de<br />
l’habillement (UFIH)<br />
French Clothing Manufacturers<br />
Association<br />
Union Des Industries<br />
Textiles (UIT)<br />
Textile Industry Association<br />
9.2.2 Germany<br />
GermanFashion Modeverband<br />
Deutschland e.V<br />
German Fashion Federation<br />
Gesamtverband der<br />
deutschen Textil- und<br />
Modeindustrie e.V.<br />
German Textile and Fashion<br />
Industry<br />
9.2.3 Italy<br />
Federtessile<br />
Textile Industry Federation<br />
8, rue de Montesquieu<br />
F - 75001 Paris<br />
Tel: + 33 - 1 44 55 66 60<br />
Fax: +33 - 1 44 55 66 66<br />
www.lamodefrancaise.org<br />
secretariatufih@lamodefrancaise.org<br />
37/39, rue de Neuilly<br />
F - 92110 Clichy<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4756 3100<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4730 2528<br />
www.textile.fr<br />
admin@textile.fr<br />
An Lyskirchen 14<br />
D - 50676 Köln<br />
Tel.: +49 – 221 – 7744 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 221 – 7744 – 137<br />
www.germanfashion.net<br />
info@germanfashion.net<br />
Reinhardtstr. 12 -14<br />
10117 Berlin<br />
Tel: +49 - 30 726220-0<br />
Fax +49 - 30 726220-44<br />
www.textile-online.de<br />
info@textil-mode.de<br />
Viale Sarca 223<br />
I - 20126 Milano<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2-6610 3440<br />
Fax: 39 (0) – 2-6610 3455<br />
9.2.4 Spain<br />
AITPA<br />
National Association of<br />
Textile Industry<br />
Asociación Española de<br />
Constructores de Maquinaria<br />
Textil y de Confeccion<br />
Association of Spanish Knitwear<br />
and Ready-to-Wear<br />
Manufacturers<br />
9.2.5 <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />
Schweizerischer Gewerbeverband<br />
Swiss Trade Association<br />
Swissfashion – Gesamtverband<br />
Der SchweizerischenBekleidungsindustrie<br />
Swiss Clothing Manufacturers<br />
Association<br />
Gran Via 670<br />
E - 08010 Barcelona<br />
Tel.: +34-93-318 9200<br />
Fax: +34-93-302 6235<br />
www.aitpa.es<br />
aitpa@aitpa.es<br />
Riera Sant Miquel 3<br />
E - 08006 Barcelona<br />
Tel.: +34-934-150 422<br />
Fax: +34-934-160 980<br />
www.amec.es/amtex<br />
amtex@amec.es<br />
Schwarztorstrasse 26<br />
Postfach<br />
CH-3001 Bern<br />
Tel: +41 31 380 14 14<br />
Fax: +41 31 380 14 15<br />
www.sgv-usam.ch<br />
info@sgv.usam.ch<br />
Beethovenstrasse 20<br />
CH - 8022 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41-44-289 79 79<br />
Fax: +41-44-289 79 80<br />
www.swisstextiles.ch<br />
zuerich@swisstextiles.ch<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 146
9.2.6 United Kingdom<br />
British Apparel & Textile<br />
Confederation<br />
The British Chambers Of<br />
Commerce<br />
Confederation Of British<br />
Wool Textiles<br />
147 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
5, Portland Place<br />
GB - London W1N 3AA<br />
Tel: +44-171-636 7788<br />
Fax: +44-171-636 7515<br />
www.apparel-textiles.co.uk<br />
65 Petty France<br />
St James Park<br />
GB - London SW1H 9E4<br />
Tel.: +44-20-7654 5800<br />
Fax : +44-20-7654 5819<br />
www.britishchambers.org.uk<br />
info@britishchambers.org.uk<br />
Textile House<br />
Red Doles Lane<br />
Huddersfield HD2 1YF<br />
Tel.: +44-1484 346500<br />
Fax: +44-1484 346501<br />
www.cbwt.co.uk<br />
info@cbwt.co.uk
9.3 Major European trade fairs.<br />
9.3.1 France<br />
Fatex - Paris<br />
organised by:<br />
Profatex Sa<br />
Interselection – Paris<br />
organized by:<br />
Intersélection – Groupe<br />
Eurovet<br />
Première Vision – Paris<br />
(Textile Fabrics Fair)<br />
organised by:<br />
Première Vision<br />
Kid’s Fashion<br />
– Mode Enfantine<br />
Kids Fahion Fairs in Paris<br />
and Brussels<br />
organized by Kid’s Fashion<br />
Mode<br />
Enfantine SA/NV<br />
Salon du Pret à Porter<br />
Paris<br />
French association of Prêt<br />
à Porter<br />
WHO’S NEXT URBAN<br />
SHOW SA.<br />
37/39, rue de Neuilly – BP<br />
121<br />
F - 92582 Clichy Cedex<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4730 5494<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4730 9450<br />
www.fatex.fr<br />
info@fatex.fr<br />
Rue de Neuilly<br />
F - 92113 Clichy Cedex<br />
Tel +33 – 1 – 4756 3232<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4756 3299<br />
www.interselection.net<br />
interselection@la-federation.com<br />
Le Britannia – Batiment A20<br />
Bld. Eugène Deruelle<br />
F - 69432 Lyon Cedex 3<br />
Tel.: +33 – 4 – 7260 6500<br />
Fax: +33 – 4 – 7260 6509<br />
www.premierevision.fr<br />
info@premierevision.fr<br />
999 chée d’Alsemberg<br />
B - 1180 Brussels<br />
Tel.: +32 – 2 – 376 5747<br />
Fax: +32 – 2 – 332 0880<br />
www.kidsfashionfairs.com<br />
visitorskids@bff.be<br />
5, rue Caumartin<br />
F - 75009 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4494 7000<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4494<br />
7002/7004<br />
www.pretparis.com<br />
info@pretparis.com<br />
23, rue du Mail<br />
F - 75002 Paris<br />
Tel.: +33 – 140 13 74 74<br />
Fax: +33 – 140 13 74 84<br />
www.whosnext.com<br />
info@whosnext.com<br />
9.3.2 Germany<br />
CPD<br />
Woman/Man incl. Global<br />
Fashion<br />
organised by: IGEDO<br />
Internationale Modemesse<br />
Kronen GmbH & Co.KG<br />
ISPO – Munich<br />
(Active Sportswear)<br />
organised by:<br />
Messe München GmbH<br />
Kind + Jugend – Cologne<br />
Bread And Butter<br />
Trade fair for selected brands<br />
in Berlin and Barcelona<br />
Bread & Butter GmbH Headquarter:<br />
Stockumer Kirchstr. 61<br />
D - 40474 Düsseldorf<br />
Tel.: +49 – 211 – 4396 – 01<br />
Fax: +49 – 211 – 4396 – 345<br />
www.igedo.com<br />
info@igedo.com<br />
Messegelände<br />
D - 81823 München<br />
Tel.: +49 – 89 – 949 – 11388<br />
Fax: +49 – 89 – 949 – 11389<br />
www.ispo.com<br />
ispo@messe-muenchen.de<br />
Messeplatz 1<br />
D - 50679 Köln<br />
Tel.: +49 – 221 – 821 – 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 221 – 821 – 2574<br />
www.koelnmesse.de<br />
info@koelnmesse.de<br />
Münzstrasse 13<br />
D - 10178 Berlin<br />
Service Hotline<br />
(Accreditation + Tickets):<br />
+49 – 30 – 2000 – 370<br />
Tel.: +49 – 30 – 400 – 44 – 0<br />
(Headquarter)<br />
Fax: +49 – 30 – 400 – 44 – 101<br />
www.breadandbutter.com<br />
info@breadandbutter.com<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 148
9.3.3 Italy<br />
Ideacomo – Cernobbio<br />
organised by:<br />
Ente Fieristico Ideacomo<br />
Modaprima – Milano<br />
organized by:<br />
EFIMA – Ente Fiere Italiane<br />
aglieria e Abbigliamento<br />
Pitti Bimbo – Florence<br />
organised by:<br />
Pitti Immagine srl<br />
Pitti Uomo – Florence<br />
organised by:<br />
Pitti Immagine srl<br />
9.3.4 Spain<br />
FIMI – Valencia<br />
organised by:<br />
Feria Valencia<br />
SIMM (Int. Fashion Week)<br />
– Madrid<br />
organised by:<br />
Parque Ferial Juan Carlos I<br />
149 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Via Regina, 40<br />
I - 22012 Cernobbio<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 31 – 513312<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 31 – 340022<br />
www.ideacomo.com<br />
ideacomo@ideacomo.com<br />
Viala Sarca 223<br />
I - 20126 Milano<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 – 661 631<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 – 6610 1638<br />
www.modaprima.it<br />
info@modaprima.it<br />
Via Faenza 111<br />
I - 50123 Florence<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 55 – 36931<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 55 – 3693200<br />
www.pittimmagine.com<br />
bimbo@bittimmagine.com<br />
Via Faenza 111<br />
I - 50123 Florence<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 55 – 36931<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 55 – 3693200<br />
www.pittimmagine.com<br />
uomo@bittimmagine.com<br />
Avenida de las Ferias<br />
E - 46035 Valencia<br />
Tel.: +34-963-861100<br />
Fax: +34-963-635111<br />
www.feriavalencia.com<br />
feriavalencia@feriavalencia.<br />
com<br />
Apdo. De Correros 67.067<br />
E - 28080 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-7225000<br />
Fax: +34-91-7225799<br />
www.simm.ifema.es<br />
simm@ifema.es<br />
9.3.5 United Kingdom<br />
MODA UK – Birmingham<br />
organised by:<br />
ITE Moda Ltd.<br />
UK Pure Womenswear<br />
London<br />
(all kinds of women’s wear<br />
and fashion accessories)<br />
organised by: Emap Retail<br />
Premier Kids Birmingham<br />
organised by:<br />
Emap Retail<br />
Tel.: +44-1484-846069<br />
Fax: +44-1484-846232<br />
www.moda-uk.co.uk<br />
info@moda-uk.co.uk<br />
33-39 Bowling Green Lane<br />
GB - London, EC1R 0DA<br />
Tel.: +44-20-7812-3700<br />
Fax: +44-20-7812-3710<br />
www.purewomenswear.co.uk<br />
info@emap.com<br />
33-39 Bowling Green Lane<br />
GB - London, EC1R 0DA<br />
Tel.: +44-20-7812-3700<br />
Fax: +44-20-7812-3710<br />
www.purewomenswear.co.uk<br />
info@emap.com<br />
Remark: Comprehensive information about all European and<br />
international fairs can be collected from the internet site: www.<br />
auma.de
9.4 European trade magazines.<br />
9.4.1 France<br />
Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />
Journal Du Textile<br />
Edition Hennessen SA<br />
61, rue de Malte<br />
F - 75541 Paris Cedex 11<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4357 2189<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4700 0835<br />
www.journaldutextile.com<br />
contact@journaldutextile.com<br />
9.4.2 Germany<br />
Weekly 18’101 Textile and<br />
clothing retail<br />
Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />
Klar-Text<br />
Das Klar’sche Textilarchiv<br />
GmbH<br />
Thann 28<br />
D - 83098 Brannenburg<br />
Tel.: +49 – 8034 – 8686<br />
Fax: +49 – 8034 – 8001<br />
www.klartext.de<br />
info@klartext.de<br />
SAZ Sportartikel Zeitung<br />
SAZ Verlag GmbH<br />
Postfach 260246<br />
D - 80059 München<br />
Tel.: +49 – 89 – 2121 1090<br />
Fax: +49 – 89 – 2121 1077<br />
www.saz.de<br />
saz@saz.de<br />
Sportswear<br />
International<br />
Deutscher Fachverlag GmbH<br />
Mainzer Landstr. 251<br />
D – 60326 Frankfurt/Main<br />
Tel.: +49 – 69 – 7595 - 2662<br />
Fax: +49 – 69 – 7595 - 2660<br />
www.dfv.de – info@dfv.de<br />
Weekly on Mondays 2’500<br />
Special edition<br />
once per year –<br />
6’700<br />
Textile and<br />
specialized retail<br />
and industry –<br />
Retail and<br />
Clothing<br />
Addresses<br />
2 times/month 10’000 Trade, sports<br />
articles<br />
6 times/year 28’700 Trade, jeans and<br />
sportswear<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 150
9.4.2 Germany<br />
Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />
TM Fashion Trend<br />
Magazine<br />
Branche & <strong>Business</strong><br />
Fachverlag GmbH & Co.KG<br />
Königsallee 70<br />
D - 40212 Düsseldorf<br />
Tel.: +49 – 211 – 8 3030<br />
Fax: +49 – 211 – 324862<br />
www.tm-fashion-portal.de<br />
info@textilmitteilungen.de<br />
TW Textilwirtschaft<br />
Deutscher Textilverlag GmbH<br />
Mainzer Landstr. 251<br />
D - 60326 Frankfurt<br />
Tel.: +49 – 69 – 7595 01<br />
Fax: +49 – 69 – 7595 1399<br />
www.Twnetwork.de<br />
info@TWnetwork.de<br />
9.4.3 Italy<br />
151 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Weekly 28’000 Textile and<br />
clothing trade<br />
Weekly 28’200 Textile and<br />
clothing trade<br />
and industry<br />
Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />
Fashion<br />
Edizioni Ecomarket Spa<br />
Corso Venezia 26<br />
I - 20121 Milano<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 – 7600 7371<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 – 78 3012<br />
www.fashionmagazine.it<br />
redazione@fashionmagazine.it<br />
Modasport Vacanze<br />
Acalifa Srl<br />
Palazzina S. Rocco<br />
Via S. Rocco 17<br />
I - 20135 Milano<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 – 5831 5800<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 – 5831 6313<br />
www.infodataitaly.com<br />
esabbat@tin.it<br />
Donna Collezioni –<br />
Uomo Collezioni – Bambini<br />
Collezioni<br />
Zanfi.editori@mo.nettuno.it<br />
Weekly 18,000 Textile sector,<br />
sports fashion<br />
Every 3<br />
months<br />
46,000 Sport and<br />
Cacation Sports<br />
International<br />
4-6 times/year App. 50,000 Sports fashion,<br />
retail, industry,<br />
consumer
9.4.4 Spain<br />
Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />
Textil Expres<br />
Aramo Editorial<br />
Muntaner 50, Atico 3a<br />
E - 08011 Barcelona<br />
Tel.: +34-93-453 7938<br />
Fax: +34-93-323 7926<br />
aramo@docupress.es<br />
La Moda<br />
Ediciones Tecnicas Doria SA<br />
Paseo de Gracia, 44-2<br />
E - 08007 Barcelona<br />
Tel.: +34-93-467 1212<br />
Fax: +34-93-488 3012<br />
www.miramedios.com<br />
info@data-red.com<br />
9.4.5 <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />
4 times/year 5’500 Industry, retail<br />
Monthly 10’000 Textile industry<br />
Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />
Mittex - SVT Zürich<br />
Schweizerische Vereinigung<br />
von Textilfachleuten SVT<br />
c/o Gertsch Consulting<br />
Postfach 1107<br />
CH-4800 Zofingen<br />
Tel.: +41 – 62 – 751 26 39<br />
Fax: +41 – 62 – 751 26 37<br />
www.mittex.ch<br />
svt@mittex.ch<br />
Schweizer Sport Und<br />
Mode<br />
MS Dienstleistungen AG<br />
Örgelackerstrasse 4<br />
CH-8707 Uetikon am See<br />
Tel.: +41 – 44 – 920 79 40<br />
Fax: +41 – 44 – 920 79 41<br />
www.sportbiz.ch<br />
info@sportbiz.ch<br />
6 times/year 3’000 Professional<br />
magazine for<br />
the textile and<br />
knitting industry<br />
Once a month 3’100 Sports and<br />
leisure wear<br />
industry<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 152
9.4.5 <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />
Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />
Textil-Revue<br />
Fürstenlandstr. 122<br />
CH - 9001 St. Gallen<br />
Tel.: +41 – 71 – 272 77 77<br />
Fax: +41 – 71 – 272 74 49<br />
www.textil-revue.ch<br />
redaction@textil-revue.ch<br />
9.4.6 United Kingdom<br />
153 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Once a month 7’500 Textile and<br />
clothing industry<br />
Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />
CWB Childrens Wear Buyer<br />
Magazine<br />
National Children’s Wear<br />
Association<br />
5 Portland Place<br />
GB-London W 1B 1 PW<br />
Tel.: +44 – 20 – 7631 5445<br />
Fax: +44 – 20 – 7631 – 3443<br />
www.ncwa.co.uk<br />
enquiries@ncwa.co.uk<br />
Drapers<br />
DR The fashion <strong>Business</strong><br />
EMAP <strong>Business</strong> Publishing<br />
Angel House<br />
338-346 Goswell Rd.<br />
GB - London EC1V 7QP<br />
Tel.: +44 – 20 – 7520 1500<br />
Fax: +44 – 20 – 7520 1501<br />
www.drapersonline.com<br />
FW<br />
EMAP Fashion<br />
Angel House<br />
338-346 Goswell Rd.<br />
GB - London EC1V 7QP<br />
Tel.: +44 – 20 – 7520 1500<br />
Fax: +44 – 20 – 7520 1501<br />
www.emap.co.uk<br />
information@emap.com<br />
4 times/year 4’500 Childrens’ wear,<br />
retail<br />
Weekly 20’000 No. 1 of textile<br />
publications<br />
in GB<br />
Weekly 10’000 Retail, industry
9.4.6 United Kingdom<br />
Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents<br />
Menswear<br />
EMAP Fashion<br />
Angel House<br />
338-346 Goswell Rd.<br />
GB - London EC1V 7QP<br />
Tel.: +44 – 20 – 7520 1500<br />
Fax: +44 – 20 – 7520 1501<br />
www.emap.co.uk<br />
clairer@fashion.emap.co.uk<br />
2 times/month 11’000 Retail<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 154
9.5 Trade promotion organisations<br />
in Europe.<br />
CBI – Centrum Tot Bevordering<br />
Van De Import Uit<br />
Ontwikkelingslanden<br />
Centre for the Promotion<br />
of Imports from Developing<br />
Countries<br />
DIPO<br />
Danish Import Promotion<br />
Office Boersen<br />
GTZ - Gesellschaft für<br />
technische Zusammenarbeit<br />
German Organisation for<br />
Technical Cooperation<br />
International Trade Cenre<br />
Unctad/Wto (ITC)<br />
NORAD<br />
Norwegian Agency for<br />
Development<br />
Cooperation<br />
SIDA<br />
Swedish International<br />
Development<br />
Cooperation Agency<br />
155 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
WTC-Beurs Building,<br />
Beursplein 37<br />
P.O.Box 30009<br />
NL - 3001 DA Rotterdam<br />
Tel.: +31 – 10 – 2013 434<br />
Fax: +31 – 10 – 4114 081<br />
www.cbi.nl, cbi@cbi.nl<br />
Børsen, Slotsholmsgade,<br />
DK - 1217 Copenhagen K<br />
Tel.: +45 3374 6000<br />
Fax: +45 3374 6080<br />
www.dipo.eu<br />
dipp@danskerhverv.com<br />
Dag-Hammerskjöld-Weg<br />
1-5<br />
D - 65726 Eschborn<br />
Tel: +49 – 6196 – 79 0<br />
Fax: +49 – 6196 – 79 1115<br />
www.gtz.de<br />
info@gtz.de<br />
Palais des Nations<br />
CH - 1211 Geneva 10<br />
Tel : +41 – 22 – 730 0111<br />
Fax : +41 – 22 – 733 4439<br />
www.intracen.org<br />
itcreg@intracen.org<br />
Ruselokkveien 26<br />
Postbox 8034<br />
N - 0030 Oslo<br />
Tel.: +47 – 22 – 24 20 30<br />
Fax: +47 – 22 – 24 20 31<br />
www.norad.no<br />
firmapost@norad.no<br />
Sweavagen 20<br />
Postbox 3144<br />
S - 10525 Stockholm<br />
Tel.: +46 – 8 – 698 5000<br />
Fax: +46 – 8 – 208864<br />
www.sida.se<br />
info@sida.se<br />
9.6 Important addresses for<br />
environmental and social issues.<br />
CBI – Centrum Tot<br />
Bevordering Van De<br />
Import Uit Ontwikkelingslanden<br />
Centre for the Promotion<br />
of Imports from Developing<br />
Countries<br />
Commission<br />
Of The European<br />
Communities<br />
Forschungsinstitut<br />
Hohenstein<br />
(measurement tables<br />
and ecological issues)<br />
Institut Fresenius<br />
Gruppe<br />
(product testing)<br />
WTC-Beurs Building, Beursplein<br />
37<br />
P.O.Box 30009<br />
NL - 3001 DA Rotterdam<br />
Tel.: +31 – 10 – 2013 434<br />
Fax: +31 – 10 – 4114 081<br />
www.cbi.nl, cbi@cbi.nl<br />
www.cbi-accessguide<br />
(internet guide to European wide<br />
ecological questions)<br />
Rue de la Loi 200<br />
B - 1049 Brussels<br />
Tel.: +32 – 2 – 2990344<br />
Fax: +32 – 2 – 2990313<br />
www.europa.eu<br />
Schloß Hohenstein<br />
D - 74357 Bönningheim<br />
Tel.: +49 – 7143 – 2710<br />
Fax: +49 – 7143 – 27151<br />
www.hohenstein.de<br />
info@hohenstein.de<br />
Im Maisel 14<br />
D - 65232 Taunusstein-Neuhof<br />
Tel.: +49 – 6128 – 7440<br />
www.fresenius.com<br />
info@fresenius.com
9.6.1 Contact points for the Oeko-ex 100 hallmark<br />
Deutsche Zertifizierungsstelle<br />
Öko-Tex<br />
IFTH Lyon<br />
Institut Français du Textile et<br />
de l’Habillement<br />
Centro Tessile Cotoniero E<br />
Abbigliamento S.p.A.<br />
AITEX Instituto Tecnológico<br />
Textil<br />
Schloß Hohenstein<br />
D - 74357 Bönningheim<br />
Tel.: +49 – 7143 – 2710<br />
Fax: +49 – 7143 – 27151<br />
www.oeko-tex.com<br />
info@oeko-tex.com<br />
Avenue Guy de Collongue<br />
69134 Ecully Cédex<br />
France<br />
Tel.: +33 472 86 1600<br />
Fax: +33 478 43 3966<br />
www.ifth.org<br />
Piazza Sant’ Anna 2<br />
21052 Busto Arsizio VA<br />
Italy<br />
Tel.: +39 0331 696711<br />
Fax: +39 0331 680056<br />
www.centrocot.it<br />
Plaza Emilio Sala 1<br />
03801 Alcoy<br />
Spain<br />
Tel.: +34 96 554 22 00<br />
Fax: +34 96 554 34 94<br />
www.aitex.es<br />
Shirley Technologies Ltd Unit 12, Westpoint Enterprise<br />
Park<br />
Clarence Avenue<br />
Trafford Park<br />
M17 1QS Manchester<br />
Tel.: +44 161 869 1610<br />
Fax: +44 161 872 64692<br />
www.shirleytech.co.uk<br />
Testex<br />
Swiss Institute for Textile<br />
Testing – International<br />
Secretary of the Oeko-Tex<br />
Association<br />
Gotthardstr. 61<br />
CH - 8027 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 – 1 – 206 42 42<br />
Fax: +41 – 1 – 206 42 30<br />
www.oeko-tex.com<br />
info@oeko-tex.com<br />
9.7 Sources of information.<br />
9.7.1. Europe<br />
AEDT<br />
(European Association of<br />
National Organisations of<br />
Retailers)<br />
EUROSTAT<br />
(Statistical office of the<br />
European Union)<br />
EURATEX<br />
(European Apparel and<br />
Textile Organisation)<br />
9.7.2 France<br />
Centre Textile de Conjoncture<br />
et d’Observation<br />
Economique (CTCOE)<br />
Centre for the Observation<br />
of Economic Development<br />
9.7.3 Germany<br />
Bfai – Bundesagentur für<br />
Aussenwirtschaft<br />
(foreign trade information<br />
Germany and EU)<br />
Bundesamt für Wirtschaft<br />
(BAW)<br />
(German Economic Office)<br />
9-13/4th Avenue des Nerviens<br />
B - 1040 Bruxelles<br />
Tel.: +32 – 2 – 230 5296<br />
Fax: +32 – 2 – 230 2569<br />
www.aedt.org<br />
info@aedt.org<br />
Bâtiment Joseph Bech<br />
5, rue Alphonse Weicker<br />
L - 2721 Luxembourg<br />
europa.eu.int/comm/eurostat<br />
24, rue Montoyer<br />
B - 1000 Bruxelles<br />
Tel.: +32 – 2 – 285 4892<br />
Fax: +32 – 2 – 230 6054<br />
www.euratex.org<br />
info@euratex.org<br />
37-39, rue de Neuilly BP<br />
249<br />
F - 92113 Clichy<br />
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4756 3030<br />
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4756 3016<br />
ifm@ifm-paris.org<br />
Agrippastr. 87-93<br />
D - 50445 Cologne<br />
Tel.: +49 – 221 – 205 7000<br />
Fax: +49 – 221 – 205 7212<br />
www.bfai.de<br />
webkontakt@bfai.de<br />
Frankfurter Str. 29 – 31<br />
D - 65760 Eschborn<br />
Tel.: +49 – 6196 – 908-0<br />
Fax: +49 – 6196 – 908-800<br />
www.bafa.de<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 156
9.7.3 Germany<br />
Statistisches Bundesamt<br />
(German Statistical Office)<br />
9.7.4 Italy<br />
Instituto Nazionale Di<br />
Statistica (ISTAT)<br />
(National Statistical Office)<br />
Market Study Clothing<br />
Sector Databank<br />
Sede Centrale<br />
9.7.5 Spain<br />
Centro de Información<br />
Textil y de la Confeccion<br />
(CITYC)<br />
Económico y Social de<br />
España<br />
(Economic and Social Council<br />
of Spain)<br />
(Dirección de Relaciones<br />
Institucionales y Publicaciones)<br />
Instituto Nacional de<br />
Estadística<br />
(National Statistical Office)<br />
157 l <strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010<br />
Gustav Streesemann Ring<br />
11<br />
D - 65189 Wiesbaden<br />
Tel.: +49 – 611 – 752405<br />
Fax: +49 – 611 – 753330<br />
www.destatis.de<br />
info@destatis.de<br />
Via Cesare Balbo, 16<br />
I - 00100 Roma<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 6-46 73 1<br />
www.istat.it<br />
info@istat.it<br />
Via dei Piatti, 11<br />
I - 20123 Milano<br />
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2-80 95 56<br />
Fax: +39 (0) – 2-80 56 495<br />
www.databank.it<br />
info@databank.it<br />
C./Rosellon, 216-5 E<br />
E - 08008 Barcelona<br />
Tel.: +34-93-4876 949<br />
Fax: +34-93-4872 362<br />
www.cityc.es<br />
C/Huertas 73<br />
E - 28014 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-429 0018<br />
Fax: +34-91-429 4257<br />
www.ces.es<br />
Paseo de la Castellana 183<br />
E - 28071 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-583 9100<br />
Fax: +34-91-5839158<br />
www.ine.es<br />
Secretaria General de<br />
Commercio Exterior<br />
(Secretary for External<br />
Commercial Affairs)<br />
9.7.6 <strong>Switzerland</strong><br />
Sartex<br />
(Swiss Association for Textile<br />
Marking)<br />
Swiss Association For<br />
Standardization (SNV)<br />
Testex – Schweizer Textilprüfinstitut<br />
(Swiss Institute for Textile<br />
Testing)<br />
TMC - Textil Und Mode<br />
Center Zürich<br />
Fashion Center<br />
P de la Castellana 14-16<br />
E - 28046 Madrid<br />
Tel.: +34-91-349 6100<br />
Fax: +34-91-431 6128<br />
www.icex.es<br />
Beethovenstr. 20<br />
CH - 8022 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 – 44 – 289 79 49<br />
Fax: +41 – 44 – 289 79 38<br />
www.sartex.ch<br />
Bürglistr. 29<br />
CH - 8400 Winterthur<br />
Tel.: +41-52-224 54 54<br />
Fax: +41-52-224 54 74<br />
www.snv.ch<br />
info@snv.ch<br />
Gotthardstr. 61<br />
CH - 8027 Zürich<br />
Tel.: +41 – 44- 206 42 42<br />
Fax: +41 – 44 – 206 42 30<br />
www.testex.ch<br />
contact@testex.ch<br />
Thurgauerstrasse 117<br />
CH - 8152 Glattbrugg<br />
Tel.: +41-43-211 59 20<br />
Fax: +41-43-211 59 29<br />
www.tmc.ch<br />
contact@tmc.ch
9.7.7 United Kingdom<br />
EIU - Economist Intelligence<br />
Unit<br />
Taylor Nelson Sofres plc.<br />
Market Research<br />
Textile Outlook<br />
International<br />
26 Red Lion Square<br />
London WC1R 4HQ<br />
United Kingdom<br />
Tel: + 44 - 20 7576 8181<br />
Fax: + 44 - 20 7576 8476<br />
www.eiu.com<br />
london@eiu.com<br />
222 Grays Inn Road,<br />
London WC1X 8HB<br />
www.tnsofres.com<br />
research@tnsofres.com<br />
Alderley House<br />
Alderley Road<br />
Wilmslow SK9 1AT<br />
United Kingdom<br />
Tel.: +44 – 1625 – 536136<br />
Fax: +44 – 1625 – 536137<br />
www.textilesintelligence.com<br />
subscriptions@textilesintelligence.com<br />
<strong>Outerwear</strong> 2010 l 158
Osec<br />
Swiss Import Promotion Programme<br />
Stampfenbachstrasse 85<br />
P.O. Box 2407<br />
CH-8021 Zurich<br />
Phone +41 44 365 51 51<br />
Fax +41 44 365 52 02<br />
sippo@osec.ch<br />
Copyright © Osec April 2010. All rights reserved.<br />
Our hotline: +41 44 365 53 91<br />
www.sippo.ch