Be in to win a $500.00 gift VouCher - Canoe & Kayak

Just two hours into the voyage approaching False Point Retreat, we came across a pod of humpback whales bubble net feeding.Harley Davidson franchise, while Sharon was officemanager with an architectural firm. Like us theyhad medium kayak experience, and they proved tobe ideal companions. During the week we came toknow them better, sharing enjoyable experiencesand many light-hearted moments.Launched in 1999 the three decked 100 tonne‘Abyssinia’ is 20 metres long with a 7.5 metrebeam. She is larger and more spacious than wehad expected. Up top the roomy wheelhouse hasample forward seating, plus a small saloon (loungearea). On the middle deck there is a spaciouswell equipped galley and dining area, plusanother larger saloon. Down below we found ourcomfortable wood grained cabin, with full queensized bed and good en-suite facilities.Necky sea kayaks, inflatable dinghy and runaboutwere stored forward on open deck areas abovea large storage hold for bulk supplies and kayakgear. Cruising at a leisurely 7.5 knots (about 13.5km/hour) we felt we were on a small ship ratherthan a boat.Approaching False Point Retreat, just two hoursinto the voyage, we came across a pod of humpbackwhales bubble net feeding. Repeatedly theygrouped together, dived in quick succession, thenmoments later erupted high out of the water withtheir mouths agape, gorging on the small fish theyhad herded together. We watched this amazingspectacle in awe.Spirits raised we went on to our first nightanchorage at Funter Bay, to set up kayaks andpaddle along a beautiful forested coastline, withsalmon leaping around us and bald eagles lowoverhead. That evening we dined on barbecuedfreshly caught salmon plus baked cheesecake.Next morning, we had leisurely hot showers andbreakfast, and headed for Sisters Island. Here, injust one hour’s fishing Bob and I caught seven goodhalibut (similiar to oversized flounders) weighingbetween four and six kilos. We returned severalsmaller halibut to the water alive. Then ‘Abyssinia’was off to our second anchorage at Spasski Bay.With good weather and great views, the kayakswere quickly back in the water. While paddlingwe spotted a deer plus more acrobatic salmon,eagles, and an interesting bird colony. Returningto Spasski Bay a large young grizzly bear wasrummaging on the shoreline. For some time wewere close! Several times the bear looked up atus and raised his nostrils, clearly curious aboutour scent. Twice he entered the forest, shook afew trees then re-emerged onto the beach. For usthis was a truly incredible encounter.That night the crab pots we had set earlier yieldedabout 30 enormous crabs. Keeping our legalquota, we returned the females plus the smallermales to the water unharmed. The others wentinto the fridge alive, and that evening dinner wasfresh halibut and Kim’s delicious freshly cookedchocolate brownie desert. The sunset was trulyspectacular!Monday was grey and drizzly. We cruised toPoint Adolphis, spotting some whales. Earl Cove,our next mooring, teamed with leaping salmon.Three sea otters circled us continuously. Thatevening the ‘feast’ was yummy crabmeat, freshlybaked corn bread, with left over cheesecake andchocolate brownie desert.Day four proved exciting. Our small group wasoff for a 17 km paddle around Inian Island,marvelling at the shoreline, the trees, imposinggranite rock formations, plus many waterfalls.We encountered more otters plus some large sealions. Curious at first, they followed close asternand to the side of us. As their numbers grew theybecame bolder and intimidating. In the distanceseveral pods of whale were spouting, showingarched backs and fluked tails as they divedSuddenly we were stopped dead in our tracks by ahuge splash and bellowing roar. A large humpbackwhale surfaced not 25 metres behind us. Otherwhales surfaced roaring, their calls echoing fromthe coastline. We watched in amazement whenthey headed away, conscious that they had justswum right under our kayaks. Eric took a depthreading; 55 feet (17 metres)! Five large whales hadjust passed under us only 30 metres off shore in17 metres of water. How close an encounter wasthat! Bob remarked, “My fun meter just got broke,it’s gone off the scales”.Shortly after we encountered a dozen kayakers.They were tightly grouped, very serious, andpowering along with no time to stop and talk.Someone shouted “We are paddling 104 km fromPelican to Hoonah” (seemingly with no time toslow up and enjoy anything?) By comparison wewere cruising along, nudging into coves, exploringwhatever took our fancy, chatting with each other,and really having fun!We thought things couldn’t get any better. Howeverwe hadn’t counted on the sea lion colony at MiddlePass. This was primeval, untouched by mankind.Countless bull seal lions on the far shore createda constant roar akin to a motor racing circuit.Increasingly groups of curious sea lions besiegedus; some whoppers we estimated at 250 kilos!Increasingly groups of these curious sea lions besieged us. Some whoppers we estimated at 250 kilos. Theyganged up around us, like bullies, but they were just playful and inquisitive.22 ISSUE FORTYthree • 2 0 0 7