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Avalure™ Film-Forming Polymers Presentation

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Avalure <strong>Film</strong>-<strong>Forming</strong><strong>Polymers</strong>Slide 1© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>IntroductionAvalure <strong>Film</strong>-<strong>Forming</strong> <strong>Polymers</strong> - Product Line• Acrylate polymer chemistry• Aqueous urethane chemistry• Personal care applicationsPhysical Property Study:• Characterize polymer physical properties• Use data in applicationSlide 2© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Background: <strong>Film</strong>-<strong>Forming</strong> <strong>Polymers</strong>Definition: A film-forming polymer forms a continuous polymermatrix on a substrateProperties:• Water resistant• Abrasion and rub resistant• Moisture barrierBase chemistry used todayPVP Nitrocellulose AcrylatesUrethanesUnique to PersonalCare IndustrySlide 3© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Where are <strong>Film</strong> Formers Used?Personal Care ApplicationsMascara / EyelinerNail Enamel / Base CoatMakeupSunscreensLotionsPotential BenefitsLong lasting, good adhesion, flexibility,good pigment dispersionGloss, adhesion, durabilityGood pigment dispersion,enhanced water resistance,long-lasting, adhesionWater resistance, SPF BoostMoisture barrier, flexibilitySlide 5© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Avalure <strong>Film</strong>-<strong>Forming</strong> <strong>Polymers</strong>Avalure AC <strong>Polymers</strong>• Linear• Copolymer• Acrylic acid chemistry• Anionic• Waterborne solutionsand solid polymerAvalure UR <strong>Polymers</strong>• Linear• Aliphatic• Polyurethane chemistry• Anionic• Waterborne dispersionsSlide 6© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>:Product LineAvalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Acrylic <strong>Polymers</strong>Urethane <strong>Polymers</strong>Waterborne Solutions Solid Waterborne DispersionsPolyesterPolyetherAC 120 AC 210 UR 405 UR 450AC 315 UR 425Slide 7© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Avalure AC <strong>Polymers</strong>:Relative <strong>Film</strong> Hardness at Room TemperatureHIGHHARD & TOUGHAvalure AC 315Acrylic CopolymerMOLECULARWEIGHTLOWAvalure AC 210Acrylic CopolymerMw = 5,000T g= -14°CLOWAvalure AC 120Acrylic CopolymerFLEXIBLEMw = 25,000T g= 5°CSOFT TACKYGLASS TRANSITION TEMPERATURE ( °C)Mw = 198,500T g= 35°CHIGHSlide 8© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Avalure UR <strong>Polymers</strong>:Unique Properties and Benefits• Tough and Durable• Flexible <strong>Film</strong>s• Chemical and Abrasion Resistant• Water Resistant• Glossy• Excellent AdhesionSlide 9© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Avalure UR <strong>Polymers</strong>:Relationship of 100% Modulus to Elongation at BreakHIGH100% ModulusTOUGHChemical &AbrasionResistanceAvalure UR 405PolyurethaneDispersionAvalure UR 450Polyurethane DispersionFLEXIBLEAvalure UR 425Polyurethane DispersionLOWLOW HIGH% ElongationSlide 10© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Avalure AC <strong>Polymers</strong>: Application GuideNailEnamelAvalure(Solventbased)PolymerNailEnamel(Waterbased)Mascara/EyelinerLiquidMakeupSunscreenProductsBarrierLotionOtherApplications*AC 120AC 210AC 315Highly Highly recommend recommendRecommend Recommend*Facial *Facial Mask, Mask, Leg Leg Makeup, Makeup, Body Body Paint PaintSlide 11© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Avalure UR <strong>Polymers</strong>: Application GuidePolyurethaneDispersionAvalurePolymerNailEnamel(Solventbased)NailEnamel(Waterbased)MascaraEyelinerLiquidMakeupSunscreenProductsBarrierLotionWaterborneUR 405UR 425UR 450Highly Highly recommend recommendRecommend RecommendSlide 12© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Formulating withAvalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Slide 13© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Formulations Using Avalure<strong>Film</strong>-<strong>Forming</strong> <strong>Polymers</strong>Formula # Formula Name Avalure PolymerCC-F0002(EU) Long-Lasting Foundation Cream UR 450CC-E0001 Mascara UR 450CC-E0002(EU) Water-Resistant Mascara UR 450CC-N0001 Clear Nail Shine AC 315SU-0002C UV-A & B Very Water-ResistantUR 450Sunscreen Lotion (SPF-20)SU-0001B Very Water-Resistant Sunscreen AC 120Lotion (SPF 30+)O-0033(EU) Make it Pink Luminescent Cream UR 450B-0044 Shielding Lotion AC 120Slide 14© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Possible Benefits of Avalure UR <strong>Polymers</strong>• Increased water resistance• SPF boost• Easy to use• Maximized interfacial contact• Reduced migration over skin• Reduced penetration through skinSlide 15© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>UV-A & B Very Water-ResistantSunscreen Lotion (SPF-20)SU-0002CA.B.C.Slide 161.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.12.13.14.15.16.17.18.19.INCI NameDeionized WaterDisodium EDTAAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerPropylene GlycolEthylhexyl MethoxycinnamateEthylhexyl SalicylateButyloctyl SalicylateButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone)Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20Cetearyl EthylhexanoateTocopheryl AcetatePEG-60 Almond GlyceridesCyclopentasiloxane (and) DimethiconolPEG-33, PEG-8 Dimethicone (and) PEG-14Phenoxyethanol, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Butyl-, andIsobutylparabenTapioca StarchSodium Hydroxide (18%)PPG-17/IPDI/DMPA Copolymer (38% TS)© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedWeight %63.100.050.250.153.005.003.005.003.001.502.000.500.501.501.501.004.001.003.95Trade NameCarbopol ® Ultrez 21 PolymerPemulen TR-2 PolymerNeo Heliopan ® , Type AVNeo Heliopan ® , Type OSHallBrite ® BHBParsol ® 1789Promulgen D EmulsifierSchercemol 1688 EmollientCrovol A-70Dow Corning ® 1501 FluidSilSense ® Copolyol-1SiliconePhenonip ®Tapioca PureAvalure UR 450 Polymer


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>UV-A & B Very Water-ResistantSunscreen Lotion (SPF-20)SU-0002CProperties:AppearanceWhite, creamy emulsionpH 7.0 – 7.5Viscosity (mPa·s)* 18,000 – 26,000Yield Value (dyn / cm²) 1,200 – 2,000SPF**: Static: 33.9SPF**: Very Water-Resistant (after 80 minutes immersion) 22.6Stability: Passed 3 months @ 45°C, 5 cycles freeze/thaw* Brookfield RVT @ 25°C, 20 rpm, Spindle #6, measured after 24 hours** SPF determined by In Vitro testing using the Labsphere ® UV-1000 UV AnalyzerSlide 17© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>UV-A & B Very Water-ResistantSunscreen Lotion (SPF-20)SU-0002CProcedure:1. PART A: Dissolve disodium EDTA in warm deionized water (~40°C).2. Disperse Carbopol ® Ultrez 21 & Pemulen <strong>Polymers</strong> in batch with mixing and allow tomix in for about fifteen minutes or until uniform.3. Add propylene glycol.4. Heat PART A to ~70°C.5. PART B: Blend ingredients and heat to ~80°C, making sure solid ingredients aredissolved.6. Add PART B to PART A with vigorous agitation. Mix until uniform. Allow batch to startcooling.7. Add first 3 PART C ingredients (13, 14, 15) to batch in order, mixing during andbetween each addition.8. Cool batch to


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Avalure UR 450 Polymer:In Vitro SPF Before Water Immersion: SU-0002Cwt% TS of 450Slide 19© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved450 = Avalure UR 450 Polyurethane Dispersion*original data from equivalent formula A-0007


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Avalure UR 450 Polymer:In Vitro SPF after 80 Minutes Immersion in Water: SU-0002Cwt% TS of 450Slide 20© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved450 = Avalure UR 450 Polyurethane Dispersion*original data from equivalent formula A-0007


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Sunscreen Without <strong>Film</strong> FormerSlide 21© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedFormula A (No (No <strong>Film</strong> <strong>Film</strong> Former)Iodine-stained dried dried film filmBased on equivalent formula A-0007


Sunscreen ContainingAvalure UR PolymerAvalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Formula B (2.0 (2.0 wt% wt% TS TS Avalure UR UR 405 405 Polymer)Iodine-stained dried dried film filmSlide 22© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedBased on equivalent formula A-0007


Slide 23© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedAvalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Very Water-Resistant Sunscreen Lotion(SPF 30+) SU-0001BA.B.C.INCI NameWeight, % Trade Name1. Deionized Water63.502. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate0.15 Carbopol ® Ultrez 20 PolymerCrosspolymer3. Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose0.104. Propylene Glycol1.005. Phenoxyethanol, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Butyl-, 0.70 Phenonip ®Propyl-, (and) Isobutylparaben6. Disodium EDTA0.057. PEG-20 Almond Glycerides0.40 Crovol A-408. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate7.50 Neo Heliopan ® , Type AV9. Ethylhexyl Salicylate5.00 Neo Heliopan ® , Type OS10. Benzophenone-36.00 Neo Heliopan ® , Type BB11. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate5.0012. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate0.25 Pemulen TR-2 PolymerCrosspolymer13. Aminomethyl Propanol0.20 AMP-Ultra PC 2000 (95%)14. Acrylates Copolymer (29% TS)10.00 Avalure AC 120 Polymer15. Fragrance0.15


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Very Water-Resistant Sunscreen Lotion(SPF 30+) SU-0001BProperties:AppearanceMilky white emulsionpH 6.5 - 7.0Viscosity (mPa· s)* 12,000 – 20,000Yield Value (dyn / cm²) 600 – 1,200SPF**: Static: 40.6SPF**: (after 80 minutes immersion) 34.5Stability: Passed 2 months @ 45°C, 3 cycles freeze/thaw* Brookfield RVT @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #6 spindle** SPF determined by In Vitro testing using the Labsphere ® UV-1000 UV AnalyzerSlide 24© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Very Water-Resistant Sunscreen Lotion(SPF 30+) SU-0001BProcedure:1. PART A: Disperse Carbopol ® Ultrez 20 Polymer and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose in warm deionized water (40-50°C). Reduce mixing speedafter polymers are dispersed.2. When uniform, add other PART A ingredients and mix until uniform.3. PART B: Combine first four ingredients in PART B in a separate vessel.Heat and mix until benzophenone-3 has dissolved.4. Cool PART B to 45°C. Disperse Pemulen TR-2 Polymer in PART B andmix until well dispersed.5. With vigorous agitation, add PART B to PART A. Mix for 20 minutes oruntil a smooth, non-grainy dispersion is apparent.6. Add AMP-Ultra PC 2000 batch, mix until a smooth product is obtained.7. Add Avalure AC 120 Polymer and fragrance to batch. Mix until uniform.Slide 25© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Pigment Dispersion Experiment:Liquid FoundationVariables• Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>:– Avalure AC 120 Polymer– Avalure UR 450 Polymer• Polymer use levels:(wt% as supplied)– 0, 5, 7, 10 and 15• Pigment Dispersion:– Oil phase– Avalure polymers• Test Response:– Hegman Grind Test:Slide 26© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Pigment Dispersion ExperimentLiquid Foundation FormulaIngredient / INCI Name Weight %PART A1. PEG-6 Stearate, Ceteth-20, 5.00Steareth-202. Cetearyl Alcohol 2.003. Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1.004. Isostearyl Isostearate 4.005. Phenonip ® 0.70PART B6. Deionized Water q.s.7. Microcystalline Cellulose, 1.50Cellulose Gum8. Xanthan Gum 0.409. Disodium EDTA 0.10Ingredient / INCI Name Weight %PART C10. Triisostearin PEG-6 Esters 2.4211. Cyclomethicone 10.0012. Titanium Dioxide 6.6013. Iron Oxide Yellow 1.5514. Iron Oxide Red 0.9315. Iron Oxide Black 0.11PART D16. Avalure AC 120 and (0, 5, 7, 10, 15)UR 450 <strong>Polymers</strong>Slide 27© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Observations: Liquid Foundation StudyPigment Dispersion:• Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>: Gooddispersion, improved homogeneity• Oil phase: Poor dispersion,instability observed (striations)Color:• Urethanes: Color is minimallyaffected• Acrylics:• Color is significantly affected• Avalure AC Polymer ↑,Color ↓, and orange tintdecreasesAesthetic Properties:• Polymer concentration affectsaesthetic properties• Recommended use level:< 10 wt% (as supplied)Recommendations:• Best pigment dispersion:Avalure UR 450 and AC 120<strong>Polymers</strong>• Use level:5 - 7 wt% (as supplied)Slide 28© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Long-Lasting Foundation CreamINCI NameWeight, %A. 1. PEG-6 Stearate, Ceteth-20, Steareth-205.002. Isostearyl Isostearate4.003. Cetearyl Alcohol1.704. Hydrogenated Castor Oil1.005. Triisostearin PEG-6 Esters2.406. Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate2.007. Phenoxyethanol, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Butyl-, Propyl-, 0.70Isobutylparaben8. Cyclopentasiloxane10.00B. 9. Deionized Water29.4910. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.10C. 11. Aminomethyl Propanol0.12D. 12. Deionized Water5.0013. Disodium EDTA0.10E. 14. Titanium Dioxide, CI 778916.6015. Iron Oxides/CI 774921.5516. Iron Oxides/CI 774990.1117. Iron Oxides/CI 774910.9318. PPG-17/IPDI/DMPA Copolymer (38% TS)7.0019. Deionized Water8.00F. 20. Steareth-212.0021. Deionized Water5.00G. 22. Dimethicone PEG-8 Polyacrylate7.20CC-F0002(EU)Trade NameTefose ® 2000Labrafil ® IsosteariquePhenonip ®Dow Corning ® 245 FluidCarbopol ® ETD 2020 PolymerAMP-95Titanium Dioxide 34-PC-0748, OilIron Oxide Yellow 34-PC-3170Iron Oxide Black 34-PC-3069Iron Oxide Red 34-PC-3511Avalure UR 450 PolymerSilsoft SurfaceSlide 29© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Long-Lasting Foundation CreamCC-F0002(EU)Properties:AppearanceBrown creampH 7.2 – 7.8Viscosity (mPa·s)* 30,000 – 40,000Stability: Passed 1 month @ 45°C, 5 cycles freeze/thaw* Brookfield DV – II+ (or RVT) @ 20 rpm @25°C, #6 spindleSlide 30© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Long-Lasting Foundation CreamCC-F0002(EU)Procedure:1. Prepare PART E by dispersing the pigments in the mixture of Avalure UR 450 Polymer andwater.2. Add PART F (Steareth-21 is solubilized in deionized water by using moderate heat) to thepigment dispersion and stir until homogeneous.3. Prepare PART B: Disperse Carbopol ® ETD 2020 Polymer into deionized water. Mix untilpolymer is dispersed.4. Pre-combine PART A ingredients without cyclopentasiloxane and heat up to 85°C. Add thecyclopentasiloxane to the melted oil phase.5. Add the Carbopol ® ETD 2020 Polymer dispersion (PART B), heated to 60°C, to PART A andhomogenize.6. Neutralize PART A and B mixture with the given amount of AMP-95 and homogenize.7. Prepare PART D: Solubilize disodium EDTA in deionized water and add to batch.8. Add the emulsion (step 3 - 7) to the pigment dispersion and homogenize.9. Compensate for water loss.10. Add Silsoft Surface and homogenize.11. Adjust the pH with AMP-95 to 7.5.12. Complete cooling with gentle stirring.Slide 31© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Test on Inner ForearmDemonstration of Testing ProtocolFoundations are applied and dried for 30 minutes, then immersed for 20 minutesSlide 32© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedFormula CC-F0002(EU)


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Remaining Foundation on Skin after20 Minutes Water Immersion of the ForearmCompetition 1Avalure UR 450Polymer(2.7 wt% TS)Control(no film-former)More foundation was left with formula containing Avalure TM UR 450 PolymerSlide 33© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedFormula CC-F0002(EU)


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Foundation Cream Immersion Test RatingsMethod: Average of 5 ratings of color (0 = no color, 5 = maximum color)of skin after 20 minutes immersion in water.ResultsWithbenchmarkedfilm-formerWith Noveon ® ConsumerSpecialties ingredienttestedWithoutfilm-formerAvalure UR 450 Polymer2.741BENEFITS: This foundation cream containing 7.0 wt% AvalureUR 450 Polymer (2.7 wt% TS) has been tested in vivo versuscontrol (foundation cream without film former) and versus thesame formula containing other benchmarked film formers.The foundation cream becomes more water resistant with theaddition of Avalure UR 450 Polymer.Slide 34© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Water-Resistant MascaraCC-E0002(EU)A.B.C.Slide 35INCI Name1. Beeswax2. Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax3. Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax4. Stearic Acid5. Glyceryl Stearate6. Isopropyl Myristate7. Petrolatum8. Cyclopentasiloxane9. Carbomer10. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate11. Phenoxyethanol, Methyl-, Butyl-, Ethyl-,Propyl-, Isobutylparaben12. Iron Oxides / CI 7749913. Deionized Water14. PPG-17/IPDI/DMPA Copolymer (38% TS)15. PEG-12 Dimethicone16. Triethanolamine (99%)© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedWeight, % Trade Name5.005.003.002.005.003.004.003.00 Dow Corning ® 245 Fluid0.10 Carbopol ® ETD 2050 Polymer0.50 Veegum ® Ultra0.90 Phenonip ®12.00 Iron Oxide Black 34-PC-306941.0015.00 Avalure UR 450 Polymer0.50q.s.** q.s. up to pH 7.50


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Water-Resistant MascaraCC-E0002(EU)Properties:AppearanceBlack creampH 7.2 – 7.8Viscosity (mPa·s)* 60,000 – 100,000Stability: Passed 3 months @ 45°C, 5 cycles freeze/thaw* Brookfield DV – II+ (or RVT) @ 20 rpm @25°C, #7 spindleSlide 36© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Water-Resistant MascaraCC-E0002(EU)Procedure:1. Prepare Carbopol ® ETD 2050 Polymer and Veegum ® Ultra dispersion (PARTB): mix the two powders together and add into deionized water while stirringat 800 -1,000 rpm for 60 minutes.2. Add preservative, black pigment, Avalure UR 450 Polymer and DowCorning ® 193 Surfactant to this dispersion and homogenize. This is PART B.3. Heat PART B to 60°C.4. Pre-combine PART A ingredients without the cyclopentasiloxane and heat upto 85°C. Add now the cyclopentasiloxane to the melted oil phase.5. Add PART A to PART B and homogenize.6. Compensate for water loss.7. Adjust the pH with triethanolamine to 7.5.8. Complete cooling with gentle stirring.Slide 37© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Test on Hair SwatchesAvalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Avalure UR 450 PolymerAvalure AC 315Polymer Comp. 1Comp. 2 Control(no film-former)Comp. 3Slide 38Remaining mascara on hair swatches after 40 minutes waterimmersion. (5.7 wt% TS of polymer)© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedCC-E0002(EU)


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Change of Color of the Water after 40Minutes Immersion of Hair SwatchesAvalure UR 450 PolymerAvalure AC 315Comp. 2 Control(no film former)Polymer Comp. 1 Comp. 3Slide 39Method: Transmittance (1) measurement of water after 40 minutesimmersion of hair swatches(1)(Sybron Brinkmann, PC 801 Brinkmann)CC-E0002(EU)© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Results - Percent Transmittance (%T)RESULTSMascara withNoveon ingredientsAvalureAC 315PolymerAvalureUR 450PolymerMascara with benchmarked<strong>Film</strong> formerComp. 1 Comp. 2 Comp. 3Mascarawithoutfilm former59.21% 85.75% 36.38% 39.70% 44.56% 34.38%The higher the value, the more water resistant the formula is. Mascaracontaining Avalure UR 450 Polymer offers the best water-resistance.Benefits: This mascara offers water-resistance propertiestested on hair swatches versus control and benchmarkedingredients due to the addition of Avalure UR 450Polymer.Slide 40© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Make it Pink Luminescent CreamO-0033(EU)A.B.C.D.E.F.G.1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.12.13.14.15.16.17.INCI NameDeionized WaterAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerPropylene GlycolDiisostearyl MalatePEG-20 Methyl Glucose SesquistearateMethyl Glucose SesquistearateSodium Hydroxide(18%)Deionized WaterDisodium EDTAPhenoxyethanol, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Butyl-, Propyl-,IsobutylparabenParfumDeionized WaterAlcohol Denat.Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Titanium DioxideSynthetic Fluorphlogopite, Titanium DioxidePolyester 3, Red 22PPG-17/IPDI/DMPA Copolymer (38% TS)Weight %31.070.4010.005.002.100.900.781.000.050.500.2015.0010.0010.005.003.005.00Trade NameCarbopol ® Ultrez 20 PolymerSchercemol DISM EsterGlucamate SSE-20 EmulsifierGlucate SS EmulsifierPhenonip ®High Energy, #184576EthanolSunshine ® Fine WhiteSunshine ® Glitter RedDermaGlo Aurora Pink DG-R422Avalure UR 450 PolymerSlide 41© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Make it Pink Luminescent CreamO-0033(EU)Properties:Appearance Pearlescent Pink CreampH 7.0 – 7.5Viscosity (mPa·s)* 9,000 – 13,000Stability: Passed 2 months @ 45°C, 5 cycles freeze/thaw*Brookfield RVT or DV-II @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #5 spindle, measured at 24 hoursRecommended Packaging: Lipgloss container with fine brushSlide 42© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Make it Pink Luminescent CreamO-0033(EU)Procedure:1. PART A: Sprinkle Carbopol ® Ultrez 20 Polymer onto the surface of deionized water. Allowpolymer to wet.2. Add propylene glycol after polymer has “wetted out”. Begin gentle agitation.3. Heat PART A to 75°C.4. PART B: In a separate vessel, pre-mix PART B ingredients and heat to 70-75°C.5. Add PART B to PART A. Mix until uniform.6. Cool batch down to 30°C with rapid mixing.7. Neutralize batch to pH 7.0 - 7.5 with Sodium Hydroxide (18%). Increase mixing speed asbatch gets thicker.8. PART D: In a separate vessel, dissolve Disodium EDTA in Deionized Water heated to 50°C.Add to main batch.9. Add PART E ingredients to batch in order, one at a time with mixing. Mix until uniform.10. PART F: In a separate vessel, mix PART F ingredients. Mix gently with a spatula untiluniform and add to the main batch.11. Add PART G ingredients to batch in order, one at a time with strong mixing. Mix untiluniform.12. If necessary, adjust batch with deionized water to compensate for water lost by evaporation.Slide 43© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Shielding Lotion B-0044A.B.C.1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.12.13.14.15.16.17.INCI NameDeionized WaterAcrylates/Acrylamide Copolymer, Mineral Oil(and) Polysorbate 85 (27% TS)GlycerinNeopentyl Glycol DiethylhexanoateDiisostearyl FumarateMyristyl MyristateDiisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer DilinoleateDimethicone PEG-7 IsostearateAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerCetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20DimethiconePetrolatumStearic AcidDimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein, Avena Sativa(Oat) Kernel Extract, Propylene GlycolAcrylates Copolymer (29 %TS)Phenoxyethanol, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Butyl-, Propyl-,(and) IsobutylparabenWeight %78.161.202.502.501.200.800.500.500.151.251.750.800.250.300.756.890.50Trade NameNovemer EC-1 PolymerSchercemol NGDO EsterSchercemol DISF EsterSchercemol MM EsterSchercemol PDD EsterSilSense ® DW-18 SiliconePemulen TR-2 PolymerPromulgen D EmulsifierDow Corning ® 200 cst FluidJeesilc ® 35COat Protein "COS“Avalure AC 120 PolymerPhenonip ®Slide 44© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Shielding Lotion B-0044Properties:AppearanceCreamy white lotionpH 6.1 – 6.3Viscosity (mPa·s)* 17,000 – 22,000Yield Value (dyn/cm²) 800 – 1,200Stability: Passed 6 weeks @ 50°C, 3 cycles freeze/thawNovemer EC-1 Polymer (%TS): 0.3Avalure AC 120 Polymer (%TS): 2.0* Brookfield RVT @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #5 spindle, measured after 24 hoursSlide 45© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Shielding Lotion B-0044Procedure:1. Combine PART A ingredients with mixing and heat to 60-65 °C.Mix until uniform.2. PART B: In a separate mixing vessel, combine PART B ingredientswith mixing and heat to 60-65 °C. Allow to mix until homogenous.3. Once temperatures are achieved and mixtures homogenous, addPART B to PART A with continued mixing. Mix until uniform.4. Allow batch to cool to below 40 °C with mixing.5. Add PART C ingredients one at a time to the main batch withmixing.6. Continue mixing until homogenous.Slide 46© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>ConclusionsAvalure <strong>Film</strong>-<strong>Forming</strong> PolymerRecommendationsAvalure PolymerMascara / EyelinerUR 450UR 425AC 120Liquid FoundationUR 450 UR 425 AC 120Sunscreen UR 450 AC 120 UR 405Barrier LotionNail Enamel (Water-based)Nail Enamel (Solvent-based)UR 425 UR 450 AC 120UR 405 UR 425 UR 450AC 315Slide 47© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Final ConclusionsAvalure <strong>Film</strong>-<strong>Forming</strong> <strong>Polymers</strong>Offer a Range of Features and Benefits<strong>Film</strong> Properties• Tough, abrasion resistant• Water resistant• Soft/Flexible → Hard/Rigid• Adhesion to substrate• High glossFormulation Benefits• Removable films• Moisture barrier• Moisture diffusion -“breathable” films• Binder for skin/substrate• Dispersant / grindingvehicle for pigmentsSlide 48© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


AppendixSlide 49© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Pigment DispersionRecommendationsFormulating Guidelines for Pigmentsusing Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Slide 50© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Dispersion Recommendationsfor Avalure UR <strong>Polymers</strong>• pH balance very important. pH of final product will bemore stable at pH of 8.0 - 8.5.• Use of good shear mixing should be used whenincorporating pigment into dispersion mixture thatcontains the Avalure UR Polymer.• Water should be used in pigment dispersion.• Avalure UR Polymer can also be used in pigmentdispersion.• pH buffering of pigment dispersion to above 7.5 infinal product will improve stability of system.Slide 51© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Dispersion Recommendationsfor Avalure UR <strong>Polymers</strong>• Using AMP-95 for pH control also enhances the pigmentstabilization of system.• Addition of any solvent to formula with Avalure URPolymer should be pre-diluted to avoid “shocking”.• Surfactants can be used as wetting agents, such asSilSense ® DW-18 Silicone.Slide 52© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Avalure <strong>Film</strong>-<strong>Forming</strong> Polymer:Pigment Dispersion Formulating Guidelines• Add liquid ingredients together at low speed until homogenous.Can include water, polymer, wetting agent, and any cosolvent.Add cosolvent to water prior to adding Avalure Polymer.• Make sure pH is above 8.0 (using AMP-95 will provide anadditional pigment wetting agent).• Add pigment with increasing agitation. Insure the pigment pastehas enough viscosity to disperse well with high speeddisperser.Slide 53© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Avalure <strong>Film</strong>-<strong>Forming</strong> Polymer:Pigment Dispersion Formulating Guidelines• Disperse mixture for 15-30 minutes to insure pigment iscompletely wet out.• Add additional water for horizontal milling. Insure pH isabove 8.0.• Disperse to required particle size of pigment.• Adjust pH of grind before incorporating with “letdown”ingredients.Slide 54© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Physical PropertyStudy of Avalure<strong>Film</strong>-<strong>Forming</strong> <strong>Polymers</strong>Slide 55© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Fundamental Polymer Study: Background• Develop and identify test methodologiesrelating to performance properties.• Evaluate physical properties of polymers.• Relate key polymer properties to desiredapplication attributes.• Recommend optimal polymer(s) for targetapplications.Slide 56© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Physical Properties InvestigationPolymer Concentration(wt% TS)<strong>Film</strong> SubstratesTest Methods25% All polymers15% Avalure AC 315 AcrylicCopolymerGlass*Vitro-Skin ®*Vitro-Nails ®Adapted ASTM Methods* Supplied by Innovative Measurement Solutions, Inc.Slide 57© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Measured Physical Properties• Tensile Properties– 100% Modulus– Elongation at Break– Tensile Strength• Gloss (60°)• Adhesion (Cross-Hatch)• Water Resistance– Spot– Immersion• Moisture VaporTransmission Rate (MVTR)• Hardness (Sward)• Abrasion Resistance (Taber)• Pigment Dispersion(Hegman)• Surface Tension• Contact Angle• Drying Time• Freeze Thaw Stability• Dry Tack• Minimum <strong>Film</strong>-<strong>Forming</strong>Temperature (MFFT)Slide 58© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Modulusmore rigidstressmore flexible100% 200% 300%strainSlide 59© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>100% ModulusPerformance Properties: Durability, FlexibilityMPa2520151050AC120AcrylicsTested according to ASTM D412-98aAC315LiquidUR405UR425Avalure PolymerWaterborneUrethanesPolyester PolyetherSolidUR450Slide 60AC120 = Avalure AC 120 Acrylic CopolymerAC315 = Avalure AC 315 Acrylic Copolymer© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedUR405 = Avalure UR 405 Polyurethane DispersionUR425 = Avalure UR 425 Polyurethane DispersionUR450 = Avalure UR 450 Polyurethane Dispersion


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Elongation at BreakPerformance Property: Flexibility% Elongation at Break8006004002000AC120AC315UR405UR425UR450Avalure PolymerAcrylicsLiquidSolidWaterborneUrethanesPolyester PolyetherTested according to ASTM D412-98aSlide 61AC120 = Avalure AC 120 Acrylic CopolymerAC315 = Avalure AC 315 Acrylic Copolymer© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedUR405 = Avalure UR 405 Polyurethane DispersionUR425 = Avalure UR 425 Polyurethane DispersionUR450 = Avalure UR 450 Polyurethane Dispersion


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Cross-Hatch Adhesion<strong>Film</strong> of Avalure PolymerGlassSlide 62© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedASTM D3359-95a


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>AdhesionQualitatively measured against 3 tapes having different levels of adhesive forceHighAdhesionLowAC120AcrylicsLiquidAC315Cross-Hatch Adhesion: Tested per ASTM D3359-95aSolidUR405Avalure PolymerUR425WaterborneUrethanesPolyester PolyetherUR450Slide 63AC120 = Avalure AC 120 Acrylic CopolymerAC315 = Avalure AC 315 Acrylic Copolymer© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedUR405 = Avalure UR 405 Polyurethane DispersionUR425 = Avalure UR 425 Polyurethane DispersionUR450 = Avalure UR 450 Polyurethane Dispersion


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Water Resistance - Immersion<strong>Film</strong> of Avalure PolymerVitro-Nails ®Vitro-Skin ®ASTM D1308-87Slide 64© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Water Immersion ResistanceMeasurements:Time:0, 15 & 60 minSubstrates: Vitro-Skin ® and Vitro-Nails ®Resultant Properties: Coverage, clarity, gloss andadhesionAll Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong> have excellentcoverage on Vitro-Skin® and Vitro-Nails®Tested per adapted ASTM method D1308-87Slide 65© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Water Immersion Resistance - <strong>Film</strong> AdhesionMost Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong> maintain very good to excellent adhesionHighSubstrate = Vitro-Skin ®Immersion Time = 0, 15, and 60 minutesSlide 66LowAC120AcrylicsTested per adapted ASTM method D1308-87© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedLiquidAC315SolidAC120 = Avalure AC 120 Acrylic CopolymerAC315 = Avalure AC 315 Acrylic CopolymerUR405UR425UR450Avalure PolymerWaterborneUrethanesPolyester PolyetherUR405 = Avalure UR 405 Polyurethane DispersionUR425 = Avalure UR 425 Polyurethane DispersionUR450 = Avalure UR 450 Polyurethane Dispersion


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Water Immersion Resistance - <strong>Film</strong> AdhesionMost Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong> maintain very good to excellent adhesionSubstrate = Vitro-Nails ®Immersion Time = 0, 15, and 60 minutesHighSlide 67LowAC120Acrylics© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedAC315LiquidTested per adapted ASTM method D1308-87AC120 = Avalure AC 120 Acrylic CopolymerAC315 = Avalure AC 315 Acrylic CopolymerUR405UR425UR450Avalure PolymerWaterborneUrethanesSolidPolyester PolyetherUR405 = Avalure UR 405 Polyurethane DispersionUR425 = Avalure UR 425 Polyurethane DispersionUR450 = Avalure UR 450 Polyurethane Dispersion


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Abrasion Resistance<strong>Film</strong> of Avalure PolymerAbrasion Resistance ≅ DurabilityASTM D3389-94Slide 68© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Slide 69Abrasion ResistancePerformance Property: DurabilityAbrasion ResistanceHighLow© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedIn general, UR’s have better resistance than AC’sAC120AcrylicsAC315Liquid SolidTested per adapted ASTM method D3389-94AC120 = Avalure AC 120 Acrylic CopolymerAC315 = Avalure AC 315 Acrylic CopolymerUR405Avalure PolymerUR425WaterborneUrethanesPolyester PolyetherUR450UR405 = Avalure UR 405 Polyurethane DispersionUR425 = Avalure UR 425 Polyurethane DispersionUR450 = Avalure UR 450 Polyurethane Dispersion


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Polymer Physical Property Test ResultsRelate physical propertiesto performance propertiesDesired Application Performance PropertiesPolymer Recommendations for FormulationsSlide 70© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Handling and Processing TipsAvalure <strong>Film</strong>-<strong>Forming</strong> <strong>Polymers</strong>Slide 71© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Handling Tips forAvalure UR <strong>Polymers</strong>Order of Addition1. Pre-combine all water phase raw materials2. Neutralize3. Add Avalure UR Polymer with agitation to waterphase below 40°C4. Adjust pH to 7.5 - 8.0Slide 72© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Handling Avalure AC 210 andAC 315 <strong>Polymers</strong> in Aqueous SystemsSample Formulation with Avalure AC 315 Polymer(10 wt% TS)Material wt %Water 89.0Ammonium Hydroxide, 28% 1.0Avalure AC 315 Polymer 10.0Sample Formulation with Avalure AC 210 Polymer(50 wt% TS)Material wt %Water 45.0Ammonium Hydroxide, 28% 5.0Avalure AC 210 Polymer 50.0Procedure1.) Dissolve in hot ammoniawater at 70°C (A slightexcess of ammonia mayspeed dissolution).2.) Avoid high shear which canlead to excessive foaming.3.) The viscosity of the solutionis dependent upon the pHand total solids. Final pHshould be about 8.5 - 9.5.Slide 73© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Troubleshooting: Solution PrecipitationProblem Cause SolutionSolution ofAvalure ACPolymer turnscloudy orsolidsprecipitate• Loss of ammoniumhydroxide (drop in pH) causesAvalure Polymer to becomeinsoluble• Divalent ions may be presentin water causing precipitationin formula• Add more ammoniumhydroxide, adjusting tooriginal pH• Use deionized water informulaSlide 74© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Troubleshooting:Dissolving Solid Avalure Polymer in WaterProblemAvalurePolymer doesnot dissolveCauseInsufficient neutralizationPolymer added too quickly% Total solids too highIncorrect order of additionSolutionAdd additional ammoniaAdd slowly with moderateagitationDilute with water tocorrect % total solidsAdd in following order:1 ) water2 ) neutralizing agent3 ) polymerSlide 75© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Troubleshooting:Dissolving Solid Avalure Polymer in Water (cont.)ProblemAvalure Polymerdissolves veryslowlySolution ofAvalure Polymeris too viscousSolution ofAvalure PolymerfoamsCauseAmmonia water too coolpH is not high enoughpH too high% Total solids too highExcessive agitationSolution- Heat ammonia water to 71°C (160°F)- A slight excess of Ammonia willfacilitate the dissolution- Adjust pH- Dilute with water to appropriate % TS- Reduce shear- Keep agitation blade well belowsurfaceSlide 76© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Troubleshooting: Adjusting <strong>Film</strong> HardnessProblem Cause SolutionChipping ofnail enamelmade withAvalure AC315 PolymerHigh T g (35 °C),hard polymerMake film more flexible:• Add plasticizer(e.g. propylene glycol)• Add Avalure AC 210Polymer, T g (-14 °C )Slide 77© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>Trademarks• Carbopol, Noveon, and SilSense are registered trademarks of The Lubrizol Corporation.• Avalure, Glucamate, Glucate, Novemer, Pemulen, Promulgen, and Schercemol are trademarks of The LubrizolCorporation.• Phenonip is a registered trademark of Clariant International Ltd.• Crovol is a trademark of the Croda Group of Companies.• DermaGlo is a trademark of DayGlo Color Corp.• AMP-95, AMP-Ultra, and Methocel are trademarks of The Dow Chemical Company or an affiliated company.• Dow Corning is a registered trademark of Dow Corning Corporation.• Parsol is a registered trademark of DSM Nutritional Products.• Labrafil and Tefose are registered trademarks of the Gattefossé Group.• Vitro-Nails and Vitro-Skin are registered trademarks of Innovative Measurement Solutions, Inc.• Jeesilc is a registered trademark of Jeen International Corporation.• Labsphere is a registered trademark of Labsphere, Inc.• Silsoft is a trademark of Momentum Performance Materials, Inc.• Veegum is a registered trademark of R.T. Vanderbilt Company, Inc.• Sunshine is a registered trademark of Sun Chemical Corporation.• Neo Heliopan is a registered trademark of Symrise.• HallBrite is a registered trademark of The HallStar Company.Slide 78© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved


Avalure <strong>Polymers</strong>DisclaimerThe information contained herein is believed to be reliable, but no representations, guaranteesor warranties of any kind are made as to its accuracy, suitability for particular applications or theresults to be obtained. The information often is based on laboratory work with small-scaleequipment and does not necessarily indicate end product performance or reproducibility.Formulations presented may not have been tested for stability and should be used only as asuggested starting point. Because of the variations in methods, conditions and equipment usedcommercially in processing these materials, no warranties or guarantees are made as to thesuitability of the products for the applications disclosed. Full-scale testing and end productperformance are the responsibility of the user. Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. shall not beliable for and the customer assumes all risk and liability for any use or handling of any materialbeyond Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.’s direct control. The SELLER MAKES NOWARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, THE IMPLIEDWARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.Nothing contained herein is to be considered as permission, recommendation, nor as aninducement to practice any patented invention without permission of the patent owner.© Copyright 2008 Lubrizol Advanced MaterialsSlide 79© The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved

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