Recommendations for via ferrata construction - UIAA

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2.5.3.6 Rubber bands on wire cablesCorrosion is an important issue for VF/KS cables because they are rarely made of corrosionresistant materials due to the high cost of stainless steel. In general it can be assumed thatcorrosion presents a danger as it is known to halve the strength of uncorroded cable. On accountof this strength reduction, rubber bands are particularly risky to apply. Most rubber bands areapplied with good intensions to repair a frayed cable and prevent injury by the broken wire.Damaged cables can be repaired without the use of rubberbands as shown in section 2.7.1.1. Inneed, application of rubber bands is permitted at the unloaded cable ends in place of end caps.The cable becomes wet on account ofprecipitation, clouds, and condensation,and the humidity builds up in the spacebetween the rubber bands and the cable.Depending on the weather, the cable driesagain, except under the rubber bands,where the humidity collects. This areadraws in liquid by capillary reaction andmaintains a moist microclimate [that isenriched with salts and/or acids]. Thissituation greatly exacerbates the corrosionrate and, undetectable from outside, thecross-sectional area of the cable becomesgreatly reduced and is no longertrustworthy. In the event of loading thecable will sever unexpectedly.2.5.4 Construction implementationsInsert pictures of does and don’ts here.Fig 25 The application of rubber bands promotescorrosion2.4 Construction implementation[insert pictures of construction examples]translation of the DAV recommendation for klettersteig constructionpg 30 of 34draft of 4/1/2009, 12:27:50 PM
2.6 Progression Aids2.6.1 Basic recommendationsAs progression aids can in general also be used as belay anchor points, they must satisfy theclimbing anchor strength, a fracture strength of 25 kN (radial) and 15 kN (axial).Progression aid should not allow children’s feet to fall through and get caught. Progression aidsshould be free of burrs and sharp edges [all edges…which the user or the EAS might come incontact with must be burr free,” from EN 12275, section 4.41.1 for carabiners]. Further, allprogression aids should have rounded forms to minimize the risk of injury: no spikes and notread plate.2.6.2 Foot holdsFoot holds should only take the form of foot pedals as shown in Figure 26. Spikes or plates are notrecommended on account of the danger of injury. The maximum a foot hold should protrude is15 cm. As for anchors, use galvanized rebar steel (the ribbing is important for gluing) accordingto DIN EN 10080 (standard for rebar construction steel) of the quality class 500S (high strength &good weldability). Even so, corrosion protection must be attended to. The least amount ofprotrusion is desirable as it reduces the influence of snow loading and increases the lifetime of thefoothold. The diameter is addressed in 2.4.3.2. For breadth, 20-30 cm is recommended for bothfeet.Important: Footholds can be used as belay anchor points and must be of sufficient strength (as forend anchors and climbing anchors). In order to reduce torque, the foot hold should be fixed tothe cliff by two dowels.2.6.3 Hand holdsThe same as foot holdsFig 26 Foot pedals of galvanized, rebar steel—without burrs or sharp edgestranslation of the DAV recommendation for klettersteig constructionpg 31 of 34draft of 4/1/2009, 12:27:50 PM
Page 1: RECOMMENDATION FOR THE CONSTRUCTION
Page 8 and 9: Based on these elements, further re
Page 10 and 11: A practical example:Consider anchor
Page 12 and 13: 2.3 Construction methods and anchor
Page 14 and 15: Description of anchors:1 32 mm U-cl
Page 16 and 17: 2.4.2 Appropriate materials for anc
Page 21 and 22: 2.4.4 Hole depth and fixing techniq
Page 23 and 24: Fig 15 Schematic diagram of a fall
Page 25 and 26: 2.5 Wire cableCables, along with th
Page 27 and 28: Fig 20 Cable clamps for fastening t
Page 29: Tensioning of the cableA winch will
Page 33 and 34: Fig 27 Defective cableRope ends sho

Recommendations for via ferrata construction - UIAA

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