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Proud To Be AN AMERICAN<br />

AmericAn Legion LegAcy run Home<br />

This year’s American Legion Legacy Run Home easily surpassed its donation<br />

total and, in doing so, raised The American Legion Riders donation total to the<br />

fund to well over $3 million.<br />

Between what was raised on the National Commander’s Ride – which started<br />

in New York on Aug. 21, traveled through Pennsylvania, Ohio and Michigan and<br />

then ended in Indianapolis Aug. 23 – and donations made in Indianapolis during<br />

The American Legion National Convention – a total of $668,421 was raised to<br />

fund college scholarships for the children of U.S. service members killed on<br />

active duty on or<br />

after Sept. 11, 2001.<br />

The first American Legion Legacy Run took place in 2006;<br />

the six prior Legacy Runs netted more than $2.6 million for<br />

the Legacy Fund. This year’s top donors included the Minnesota<br />

American Legion ($40,550), South Carolina American<br />

Legion ($37,967) and Florida American Legion ($33,046), as<br />

well as the Legion Riders from American Legion Post 593 in<br />

Converse, Texas ($25,051) .<br />

The American Legion Riders “Legacy Run” started in<br />

New York by Niagra falls this year and went to Indy (the<br />

long way) - they had 376 bikes in it this year. Pictures<br />

submitted by Jim Althouse/Rob Thein…thanks guys!<br />

Oils and Lubes 101:<br />

By Wayne Tripp<br />

Power-Tripp Performance, Inc.<br />

The engine oil and lubricant industry is big business worldwide. This topic<br />

tends to become a heated discussion as many motorcycle owners tend to be<br />

rather opinionated on the topic, as well. For motorcycle manufacturers, the<br />

deal they make with a given oil company to use a specific oil can mean more<br />

than a few Dollars saved on each motorcycle produced, and cause many<br />

riders to use a specific oil brand that they might not otherwise be running.<br />

As a result, there is a great deal of marketing-speak, legalese, propaganda,<br />

old-wives-tales, and simply bad or confusing information concerning engine<br />

oils and lubes. In order to cut through to the heart of the matter, this article<br />

will attempt to simplify the topic to the bare bones, and provide information<br />

valuable to the life of your engine.<br />

To begin with, the first number on an oil bottle label is the viscosity (weight<br />

or thickness) at water’s boiling point. The viscosity of the oil at near freezing<br />

temps is the “W-” listed in the oil weight on the label. Most oil base stocks<br />

have a starting viscosity close to 12-17 weight at 212˚ F, and 37 weight at 32˚<br />

F. This means that most oil bases start as roughly a 12w-37 weight oil. Additive<br />

packages are then added to alter viscosity, improve high pressure wear,<br />

clean, prevent foaming, etc. It is the additive package that separates one oil<br />

of the same base stock from the others. Viscosity modifiers are branch-chain<br />

molecules shaped like springs. These wind and unwind like coils at different<br />

temps, altering the viscosity, and widening the viscosity range at different<br />

temps. However, these tend to be fairly fragile, and are easily broken up by<br />

gears - like in the transmission of a bike engine. As a result, bike engines that<br />

use engine oil for the transmission and other gears, tend to be hard on wide<br />

viscosity engine oils, and the shifting becomes “notchy” once the oil breaks<br />

down. In warmer climates, there is less need for wider viscosity ranges than<br />

in cold climates with those who ride year-round.<br />

Gear lubricants are tested and rated differently than engine oils. A 75w-90<br />

gear lubricant actually has a viscosity roughly the same as a 15w-40 engine<br />

oil. In order to meet GL4 or GL5 ratings, gear lubes contain much higher<br />

levels of anti-foaming agents, as well as much higher levels of high pressure<br />

additives, with higher crush protection. With engines using separate transmissions,<br />

primary drives, and final drives, we need to pay particular attention<br />

to using the correct lubricant for the need of the parts.<br />

There are five groups for motor oil base stocks:<br />

Group I and II are standard refined mineral base oils.<br />

Group III is hydrocracked mineral base oil. Mostly meaning that parafins<br />

(waxes) have been removed.<br />

Group IV are Polyalphaolefin (PAO) synthetic base oils. Meaning that the<br />

molecules have been sorted by size for specific properties, and much higher<br />

temp stability.<br />

Group V synthetics are primarily esters and diester base oils produced<br />

from plant oils. Mostly made from banana, coconut, caster bean, etc., oils -<br />

giving them their smell and stickiness, as well as high temp stability.<br />

“Synthetic oil” does not always mean what you may think. A good many<br />

years ago, Castrol started labeling their group III oil as “synthetic”. Mobile<br />

filed a complaint with the advertising division of the Better Business Bureau<br />

on this. The BBB decided that group III oils could be labeled “synthetic” in the<br />

USA. As a result, many companies label Group III oils as “synthetic” in the<br />

USA. However, the rest of the world still only considers group IV and V base<br />

stocks as synthetic, due to the man-made nature of the stocks, temp stability,<br />

etc.<br />

“Synthetic blends” are mineral base stocks (usually group II) with up to 30%<br />

PAO or ester/diester base stock added - including the additive packages.<br />

While this does improve many characteristics of the oil, the improvements<br />

tend to come with a considerably higher price tag. Generally speaking, a<br />

50/50 blend of group II oil with a group IV or V oil will give 75% of the benefits<br />

of a pure group IV or V oil.<br />

Group I, II, and III mineral bases tend to start breaking down at 215º F -<br />

225º F. While Group IV, and V stocks tend to hold up to well over 325º F. With<br />

localized bearing temps able to exceed 450º F, the base stock used makes a<br />

big difference.<br />

Heavier viscosity oils require more work from the engine and oil system<br />

to pump through the engine. They also do not carry away localized heat<br />

as well as lighter viscosity oils. On the dyno, engines held at a constant<br />

engine speed and load tend to show operating temp differences of over 10º<br />

F between a 50wt and 40wt oils. However, some engine clearances and<br />

designs require heavier weight oils - especially at idle engine speeds and<br />

temperatures.<br />

Compared to group I, II and III oils, group IV and V oils regularly show<br />

improvements in output, reduced engine temps, and increased coast down,<br />

on the dyno, as well as higher ratings from Falex and wear scar tests. This is<br />

due to reduced friction, and improved high pressure protection. This allows<br />

you to run an even lighter oil viscosity, for even further gains in output, and<br />

heat carrying ability. However, there are some group IV or V oils that break<br />

down very quickly, and do not provide these benefits for many miles.<br />

Many bikes today come with synthetic or synthetic blend oils right off the<br />

showroom floor. Using a dedicated break-in procedure, we find that using<br />

group IV or V oils takes nearly twice the time compared to group II or III oils<br />

for ring seal to drop into place for targeted blow-by flow, when using a flow<br />

meter connected to the crankcase. Does this mean that you cannot or should<br />

not break-in an engine on synthetic oils? No, just that it may not be the best<br />

decision.<br />

Bike engine oils have reduced molybdenum content (for wet clutches), and<br />

higher zinc, phosphorus, and other high pressure additives (for valve-train<br />

components) than car oils, as well as much more anti-foam additives (for<br />

gears). In 2006, car oils significantly reduced the high pressure additives in<br />

these oils. This was in an effort to get catalytic converters to last 100,000<br />

miles. These oils are not good for the valve-train on motorcycle engines.<br />

Some oils foam considerably more than others due to the action of the<br />

gears and rotating parts in the engine. This can be seen on bikes with oil<br />

level sight glass windows while on the dyno. It is easy for the rotating crankshaft,<br />

rods, etc. to pick up and form “ropes” of foamy oil in the crankcase.<br />

These “ropes” then pick up more and more oil - especially as you twist and<br />

turn the bike, and oil sloshes around in the crankcase. This makes these<br />

parts harder to spin, termed “windage”, which robs output and fuel economy<br />

from the engine.<br />

Oil cavitation adds air to oil. An engine oil will hold up to 9% of its volume<br />

in air. Unlike oil, air is compressible, and reduces the oil’s ability to form a<br />

hydraulic wedge in bearing clearances and between the cams and buckets.<br />

This reduces its ability to protect, and increases windage (robbing output).<br />

Reducing oil cavitation leads to longer lived engines, higher output, and<br />

improved mileage.<br />

While some of this information may be a bit simplified, it should help inform<br />

you of the differences in oils and lubricants. I hope it helps become more<br />

informed, less opinionated, and make better buying decisions.<br />

14 <strong>Thunder</strong> <strong>Roads</strong> <strong>Kentucky</strong> www.thunderroadskentucky.com<br />

<strong>Thunder</strong> <strong>Roads</strong> <strong>Kentucky</strong> 15

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